Learning Photography

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phisheep

NeoGAF's Chief Barrister
Hey guys, I need some quick advice: a friend of mine works at a denim store, they have a special women night and need a photographer, he asked me because they didn't have a photographer available. I'm quite inexperienced with photograping people and in lowlight conditions.

The store is decent sized (probably quite small compared to US ones...) and there isn't that much light, I just have to shoot random photo's to capture the atmosphere (of both people and the store in general). I have a Rebel t2i with 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 kitlens and 50mm f/1.8. I think I'll use the kitlens because the 50mm is too small (plus a crop factor of 1.6x), however I'm a little bit afraid the quality will suck, I'll take them both anyways.

Does anyone have a few quick suggestions or tips for me for situations for this? Also should I use the (build in) flash or not? I'm leaning towards no, but not sure yet. I'd greatly appreciate some quick advice!

Here's a few tips then.

First, get access to the store BEFORE the special night, take a load of shots and see what works. Work out what the ambient lighting is and whether it is good enough. If it is anything like my shop, you'll find there are certain spots in the shop you can shoot without additional lighting, and other spots where you can't.

And note down what, if anything, does work.

Second, since you'll probably find you need some additional lighting, either get some extra light in there or bring a flash unit. Don't use the on-camera flash, it's horribly difficult in small stores as you get unwanted reflections all over the place.
 

Dreaver

Member
Here's a few tips then.

First, get access to the store BEFORE the special night, take a load of shots and see what works. Work out what the ambient lighting is and whether it is good enough. If it is anything like my shop, you'll find there are certain spots in the shop you can shoot without additional lighting, and other spots where you can't.

And note down what, if anything, does work.

Second, since you'll probably find you need some additional lighting, either get some extra light in there or bring a flash unit. Don't use the on-camera flash, it's horribly difficult in small stores as you get unwanted reflections all over the place.
I don't have access nor the money for a flash unit, I told them my equipment is limited, they know it and don't really have high expectations or anything (they are already happy they have someone that can shoot some photo's, I bet they would even accept it if I arrived with a P&S). Of course I want to produce photo's as good as possible. I think I'll mostly try it without flash, though I might try both (the lightening isn't THAT bad, but still way darker than outside).

Thanks for the tips though!
 
Thanks for the tips though!

I think you're going to be better off with the 50mm wide-open. Regardless, use auto-ISO to maintain a shutter speed that eliminates motion blur. Shutterspeed = 1/focal length is a good starting point, though I need to shoot faster to get consistent results.
 

Arcteryx

Member
I think you're going to be better off with the 50mm wide-open. Regardless, use auto-ISO to maintain a shutter speed that eliminates motion blur. Shutterspeed = 1/focal length is a good starting point, though I need to shoot faster to get consistent results.

This. I would recommend the 50 as well for this situation(even with the crop).
 

mrkgoo

Member
Dreamer:

In addition, use RAW and you'll be able to push underexposed shots up a lot better.

Take both lenses - the 50mm will drastically help with low light (and help with focusing), but you'll also need the wide angle for environmental shots.

Lastly, you can work in motion blur to your shots if you know what you are doing. A bit of blur from movement of the subject or some subjects (not camera shake) can create an impression of liveliness. There ARE ways you could utilise a built in flash, like using it with balanced ambient lighting - second curtain syncs and stuff.
 

sneaky77

Member
I don't have access nor the money for a flash unit, I told them my equipment is limited, they know it and don't really have high expectations or anything (they are already happy they have someone that can shoot some photo's, I bet they would even accept it if I arrived with a P&S). Of course I want to produce photo's as good as possible. I think I'll mostly try it without flash, though I might try both (the lightening isn't THAT bad, but still way darker than outside).

Thanks for the tips though!

Have you thought about renting a lens? It's a good excuse to play with new stuff lol
 
Have you thought about renting a lens? It's a good excuse to play with new stuff lol

He'd be better off renting a flash, buying a bunch of batteries, putting it on the camera in TTL mode and pointing it at the ceiling (turn off auto-ISO if you do this, at least my Nikons are too stupid to notice the flash).
 

captive

Joe Six-Pack: posting for the common man
Here's a few tips then.

First, get access to the store BEFORE the special night, take a load of shots and see what works. Work out what the ambient lighting is and whether it is good enough. If it is anything like my shop, you'll find there are certain spots in the shop you can shoot without additional lighting, and other spots where you can't.

And note down what, if anything, does work.

Second, since you'll probably find you need some additional lighting, either get some extra light in there or bring a flash unit. Don't use the on-camera flash, it's horribly difficult in small stores as you get unwanted reflections all over the place.

I would second this second part. You can go to home depot or lowes and get "work" lights, the type that can clamp to anything smaller than about 2 or 3 inches round. They are great, inexpensive. I use them to light my art festival booth. They also double as hotlights for portraits or studio lighting for me.

That or rent a flash.

Also my friend who uses a flash turned me on to some cool rechargeable batteries, samsung eneloop batteries. Much better than the old nicad rechargeables.
 

Damaged

Member
my friend who uses a flash turned me on to some cool rechargeable batteries, samsung eneloop batteries. Much better than the old nicad rechargeables.

Yeah I got a set of these for my Sb600 speedlight and they are fantastic. Not the highest output but they hold a charge for ages
 

phisheep

NeoGAF's Chief Barrister
I don't have access nor the money for a flash unit, I told them my equipment is limited, they know it and don't really have high expectations or anything (they are already happy they have someone that can shoot some photo's, I bet they would even accept it if I arrived with a P&S). Of course I want to produce photo's as good as possible. I think I'll mostly try it without flash, though I might try both (the lightening isn't THAT bad, but still way darker than outside).

Thanks for the tips though!

As an alternative then, take some test shots when you get there and manually crank your ISO up to where you are getting good enough lighting. (Despite CrudeDiatribe's suggestion I've never got along with auto ISO, it's just another variable getting in the way and confuses the hell out of me).

Be nice to major on the 50mm but really I'd stick with the kit zoom - you don't want to be messing around changing lenses in a crowded shop.

Shoot raw so you can fiddle with whitebalance later.

Good luck btw!
 
I've never got along with auto ISO, it's just another variable getting in the way and confuses the hell out of me).

You know how aperture-priority works, right? Meter the scene, and for the given aperture, ISO, and exposure compensation setting, calculate the right shutter speed.

If you have auto-ISO turned on, if the right shutter speed is slower than the threshold, double the ISO and halve the shutter. Repeat as needed until you run out of ISOs.
 

WickedlNl

Banned
My friend just made me a new logo and I know how to add watermarks to a photo, graphical ones. However the logo comes with gray background. How exactly do I separate my logo from that so only the graphic desing comes into the picture and not including the gray square around it. I got jpg,pdf and psd files.
 

DagsJT

Member
Just at the beginning of "Understanding Exposure" where he says to set the aperture to 5.6 and adjust the shutter speed until it's correct. So I've tried countless times to take a photo of my mouse and every single time the image is blurred, presumably because the shutter speed is so long that my hands move very slightly since I pressed to take the shot.

Very frustrating.

Edit: Ah, increasing the ISO helps with this problem!
 

mrkgoo

Member
Just at the beginning of "Understanding Exposure" where he says to set the aperture to 5.6 and adjust the shutter speed until it's correct. So I've tried countless times to take a photo of my mouse and every single time the image is blurred, presumably because the shutter speed is so long that my hands move very slightly since I pressed to take the shot.

Very frustrating.

Understanding exposure is key to pretty much all photography, but I don't value the book as highly as most do.

But as with any learning, I find that everyone is different and will 'click' at some point, be it from reading, or practice. Normally it takes more than one place to learn the same thing, and it's not that one thing is necessarily BETTER at explaining, but sometimes when it's explained a second time in a different way, then it 'clicks'.

There is no 'right' setting for an image. It depends on what you are aiming for. There is only 'correct' exposure depending on what your aim is, and settings are only valid for that specific sim, lighting, and instance, and greatly depends on other settings.

My general learning guideline is thus:

1) Understand exposure. 'Correct' exposure = just right. 'Over' exposure = too bright. 'Under' exposure = too dark.

2) There are 3 main things you can control that all contribute to exposure:
a) Aperture.
Wider/more open aperture = more light = brighter exposure.
Narrow/smaller aperture = less light = darker exposure.
(note: the value is a reciprocal, so larger value = smaller aperture).

b) Shutter speed (time the shutter is open).
Longer time for shutter = more light = brighter exposure.
Shorter time for shutter = less light = darker exposure.

c) ISO ("sensitivity" setting for the sensor)
Lower iso = less sensitive to light = darker exposure.
Higher ISO = more sensitivity to light = brighter exposure.

In regards to exposure, all three settings are equivalent in nature. That is, they can all make an exposure lighter or darker. The unit for exposure is the Exposure Value (EV), sometimes called a 'stop'. Each 'stop' refers to halving or doubling of 'light'.

So halving one setting, but doubling another at the same time will get you the same effect of no net change in exposure.

--------------------

3) Understand why you would change each of the 3 settings instead of the others.
Each setting can change exposure, that is true. But why change aperture when you could change shutterspeed? Well, each setting contributes at least one important factor other than exposure.

c) ISO: changes 'noise' and grain. Like any scientific increase in gain, you decrease signal to noise ratio, and that is literally what is going on here.
Higher ISO sensitivity = higher noise/grain.
Lower ISO sensitivity = lower noise/grain ('cleaner' image)

b) Shutterspeed: changing time of the shutter open controls motion blur of subjects and also yourself.
Fast shutterspeeds = 'freezing' action
Slow shutterspeeds = blurring action

As a side effect, super slow shutterspeeds means that you might also record your OWN action, that is movement of the camera itself. This is generally undesirable, and also related to the focal length of your lens (think about how steady it is to hold a pair of binoculars or telescope vs say, normal glasses)

a) Aperture: controls DOF - how much of your image is in fcous, and thus foreground and background blur.
I'm not going to go further on this here, as it's an entire lesson in itself.



That's just the basics, but if you get the above you can nearly do any type of photography, or at least think about how you could achieve it.

Other things to think about as you get later on down, at least regards to technical aspects of photography:

Lens focal length, distance and perspective.
Sensor size and the effect on your image.
Artisitic composition of subjects and elements.
Artisitic composition of contrast and colour.
Creating your own light with flash photography.

And so on and so on. Photography is a deep hole, and your learning will go on forever.
 

XMonkey

lacks enthusiasm.
I've started looking seriously into photography as a hobby maybe 6-7 years ago. I'm not at all in the posture to give advice but here are some observations I've come up with over these years:

- Fast Forward as quickly as you can over the technical bits. Is this lens the sharpest? Does this sensor have more red channel noise than the other? Does the shutter speed goes faster than 1/4000th of a second? You need to know about them of course but that's not what will lead you to good photography.
There are tons of books on technical aspects and the forums are filled with discussions and debates over noise and dynamic range. Don't linger too much with these if you like photography.

- Visual Languange and Composition. This was my 2nd step I was getting interested in (I'm an engineer so no artistic school to back me up). I've soon learned that again, there are a lot of books on composition but many of them just repeat the same rules without explaining what's going on with them.
If I were to start over, I would skip quickly through these books and get to the core of the problem: visual language. What you need to learn about is how to express yourself through the photographic language.
A very good book on this very topic is, I guess, Richard Zakia's "Perception and Imaging". What this book did was open my interest on the visual language and it's ties in with photography. There are a lot of good books on the visual language (Rudolf Arnheim, even Umberto Eco for example) that compensate greatly the mediocre photography books on the subject. You'll learn more from these books, even getting interested in painters will help more than reading your average "photographic composition" book.

- Reading about photography. I'm not talking about books on how someone used a super-angular to get an outstanding landscape photo. I'm talking about books that speak about what photography and photographing is, and what it means. Roland Barthes' "Camera Lucida" is a very good read and you can make some interesting connections with Richard Zakia's book (good photographs stir memories for example).
Also, reading about other famous photographs is important because helps put things into context. "The ongoing moment" by Geoff Dyer is a very good read on the subject and why it is important.

- Perhaps the most important thing: look at good photographs, daily if you can. It helps a lot on deciding when your own photographs are worth it or not. Coupled with what you read in the other books you'll begin to see why do they work and why they are considered good.

That's all and I'm enjoying it this way.

This is great advice, especially the visual language stuff and studying good photographs. Art history classes really improved my photography I think.
 

mrkgoo

Member
Technical aspects aside, I find one of the best things you can do to improve your photography is to look at and critique others' images.

And your own.

You learn about what YOU think works and what doesn't.
 
I need help, advice and insight of GAF's more experienced photographers.

I shoot with a Canon EOS 50D (won in a contest) and have two lenses, the kit lens (28mm-135mm) and the nifty-50 (Canon f/1.8 50mm). I read Understanding Exposure and have a better understanding of the mechanics of ISO, aperture and shutter speed than ever before.

That said, my pictures don't feel sharp, especially in comparison to what I see in the GAF Q3 photography thread. Auto focus, manual focus, it doesn't matter.

Does it come down to the quality of my glass or am I doing something wrong? Can I better make my pictures "pop" in post? Help me GAF!

Here are some of my most recent photos...

9429711044_5cb6e0b773_b.jpg

9429712244_84e3fe70e7_b.jpg

9426944529_29ce52cd6b_b.jpg
 
I

Does it come down to the quality of my glass or am I doing something wrong? Can I better make my pictures "pop" in post? Help me GAF!


9429711044_5cb6e0b773_b.jpg


9426944529_29ce52cd6b_b.jpg

I think your pictures are great just as you posted

if you are looking for more sharpness, just add it trough a 30 second photoshop /lightroom modification..



but not push too much.. images won't look "real" anymore (imho)




VtHxtnC.jpg



vTGDoA0.jpg
 
Does it come down to the quality of my glass or am I doing something wrong? Can I better make my pictures "pop" in post? Help me GAF!

The lily is in focus and not motion-blurry, so adding sharpness as Hiro_Kunimi_80 did is great. The yellow flower is blurry, whether focus or motion related, I do not know.

I would also suggest getting the flowers out of the middle of the frame.
 

Rentahamster

Rodent Whores
That said, my pictures don't feel sharp, especially in comparison to what I see in the GAF Q3 photography thread. Auto focus, manual focus, it doesn't matter.

Does it come down to the quality of my glass or am I doing something wrong? Can I better make my pictures "pop" in post? Help me GAF!

Equipment/Technique:

You gear is fine for making sharp photos. Given that it's cheap gear, you need to know where that sweet spot is for getting the most out of your "sharpness" so to speak. For the kit lens, you probably want to try shooting at around f5.6 to f8-ish, since that is where the best sharpness is on kit lenses tends to be. For the prime, you might want to try shooting some shots at f4 to f8 ish. I'm not going to go into the technical details into why, but if you read that book, you might have a pretty good idea.

This is not to say that you can't get sharp photos at the other f-stops. You can. It's just that all things being equal, stopping down will give you a sharper, but not necessarily "better" photo. Also keep in mind that stopping down will also change your bokeh, as well as reduce the light sensitivity, so be sure to factor that in.

There's also the issue of motion blur and camera shake, but you should know that you need a decently fast enough shutter speed to make sure that doesn't occur.

Try go out on a really sunny day with lots of light, and lots of contrast. Take some pics then, and see what happens. Fair bit of warning, though, sunny high contrast days, while providing lots of light, don't necessarily provide the kind of quality of light (direct, harsh) for the most aesthetically pleasing pics, so that's a drawback as well. However, you can use the opportunity to try your hand at using light modifiers, such as a piece of white paper or cloth to use as a reflector or scrim.

The pics you posted tended to have pretty narrow depth of field. This is tricky, because it's easy to kill your sharpness this way, but it doesn't have to be. Your best bet for lots of bokeh, but sharp focus would tend to be the 50mm at f2.0 or so. Wide open isn't the best for sharpness. You might also want to try the kit lens at f5.6 to f8, zoomed into 135mm. You'll probably want to try that with a tripod though, or with enough light to be able to use a fast shutter speed. You should know why.

Subject selection:

The first two pics in particular need to be thought out a little more, especially if you're doing a bokeh shot. Given your narrow DoF, you have to keep in mind what parts of the subject are going to be in focus, and what parts aren't. Take the first picture, the way you are positioned relative to the subject, only a small part of the flower is in focus, and none of the parts that are in focus are particularly compelling. As such, it's easy for the eye to wander around. Your DoF is narrow, and isn't enough to encapsulate your subject. If keeping that narrow DoF, find something interesting on that flower, and change your position to get as much of it in focus as possible, while leaving the uninteresting parts in bokeh.

You may find an easier time with flatter subjects that are parallel to the plane of focus. That way, more of the subject will be in focus, even with a narrow DoF.

With the second picture, you're focusing on the back petal, which is probably not a good idea for several reasons. First, you should probably have stuff closer to you be in focus. Not always, but it's a decent rule of thumb to begin with. Second, there is not much detail on the petals that you did focus on, so even though it is in focus, it doesn't grab the eye. The center part of the flower, however, probably has sufficient detail in it to be interesting, so you probably should have locked your focus on that, instead.

Third picture is fine, I guess. Not really much you can do there, other than stop down more, but even then, it's kinda pointless. A different kind of lighting might do well for your macro shots to emphasize the detail. Try out some small detail shots like that with a "raking" light source, or a light source coming at an oblique angle. Google for what that is.

Post processing: You can try to shoot in RAW, since that'll help with overall sharpness control. Use lightroom, if you do.

You can also try playing with contrast. Mid-tone contrast, in particular. Otherwise known as the clarity slider in Lightroom. Or, the Unsharp mask in Photoshop at a high radius. Google for tutorials.
 
I have a 600D. Is there anyway to get every AF Focus Point selected for an image? Most of the time, it selects three points for me that aren't even the points I want
 

Rentahamster

Rodent Whores
I have a 600D. Is there anyway to get every AF Focus Point selected for an image? Most of the time, it selects three points for me that aren't even the points I want

What do you mean every focus point? Not everything can be in focus at the same time, in some cases. If your camera is on auto mode, then all focus points are active, and it selects the closest thing to you that is in focus. If you want to be more selective with what you want to focus on, then you should manually set the camera to have a specific focus point, and use that, along with the "focus and recompose" technique.


lol how'd you get juniored?
 

mrkgoo

Member
Equipment/Technique:

You gear is fine for making sharp photos. Given that it's cheap gear, you need to know where that sweet spot is for getting the most out of your "sharpness" so to speak. For the kit lens, you probably want to try shooting at around f5.6 to f8-ish, since that is where the best sharpness is on kit lenses tends to be. For the prime, you might want to try shooting some shots at f4 to f8 ish. I'm not going to go into the technical details into why, but if you read that book, you might have a pretty good idea.

This is not to say that you can't get sharp photos at the other f-stops. You can. It's just that all things being equal, stopping down will give you a sharper, but not necessarily "better" photo. Also keep in mind that stopping down will also change your bokeh, as well as reduce the light sensitivity, so be sure to factor that in.

There's also the issue of motion blur and camera shake, but you should know that you need a decently fast enough shutter speed to make sure that doesn't occur.

Try go out on a really sunny day with lots of light, and lots of contrast. Take some pics then, and see what happens. Fair bit of warning, though, sunny high contrast days, while providing lots of light, don't necessarily provide the kind of quality of light (direct, harsh) for the most aesthetically pleasing pics, so that's a drawback as well. However, you can use the opportunity to try your hand at using light modifiers, such as a piece of white paper or cloth to use as a reflector or scrim.

The pics you posted tended to have pretty narrow depth of field. This is tricky, because it's easy to kill your sharpness this way, but it doesn't have to be. Your best bet for lots of bokeh, but sharp focus would tend to be the 50mm at f2.0 or so. Wide open isn't the best for sharpness. You might also want to try the kit lens at f5.6 to f8, zoomed into 135mm. You'll probably want to try that with a tripod though, or with enough light to be able to use a fast shutter speed. You should know why.

Subject selection:

The first two pics in particular need to be thought out a little more, especially if you're doing a bokeh shot. Given your narrow DoF, you have to keep in mind what parts of the subject are going to be in focus, and what parts aren't. Take the first picture, the way you are positioned relative to the subject, only a small part of the flower is in focus, and none of the parts that are in focus are particularly compelling. As such, it's easy for the eye to wander around. Your DoF is narrow, and isn't enough to encapsulate your subject. If keeping that narrow DoF, find something interesting on that flower, and change your position to get as much of it in focus as possible, while leaving the uninteresting parts in bokeh.

You may find an easier time with flatter subjects that are parallel to the plane of focus. That way, more of the subject will be in focus, even with a narrow DoF.

With the second picture, you're focusing on the back petal, which is probably not a good idea for several reasons. First, you should probably have stuff closer to you be in focus. Not always, but it's a decent rule of thumb to begin with. Second, there is not much detail on the petals that you did focus on, so even though it is in focus, it doesn't grab the eye. The center part of the flower, however, probably has sufficient detail in it to be interesting, so you probably should have locked your focus on that, instead.

Third picture is fine, I guess. Not really much you can do there, other than stop down more, but even then, it's kinda pointless. A different kind of lighting might do well for your macro shots to emphasize the detail. Try out some small detail shots like that with a "raking" light source, or a light source coming at an oblique angle. Google for what that is.

Post processing: You can try to shoot in RAW, since that'll help with overall sharpness control. Use lightroom, if you do.

You can also try playing with contrast. Mid-tone contrast, in particular. Otherwise known as the clarity slider in Lightroom. Or, the Unsharp mask in Photoshop at a high radius. Google for tutorials.

In regards to sharpness of gear, I generally work under the philosophy that all gear has a 'sweet spot' where quality is optimum and it falls off at the extremes, in addition to actual optical factors (ie DOF).

For example, the centre of an image is always going to be better than the edges or corners. Operating at the extremes of any equipment will show the flaws. Thus, at widest aperture, you're pushing the lens to its limits and showing the flaws. So stopping down a little tends to get you better quality.

Likewise, generally using a zoom lens at its widest or most telephoto also tends to start showing flaws.

This is just an engineering thing - during design they decide where they can limit the abilities to what is more acceptable. If it were more acceptable to use it further with that design they'd go for it.

To be honest though, most of the time it's image quality you're talking about on the micro scale. 100% sharpness, micro contrast etc. modern gear is miles better than most photographers need.
 
I appreciate the feedback!

I do shoot in RAW, which gives me a ton of flexibility when it comes to editing in Lightroom. I normally avoid adjusting sharpness or clarity and will start seeing what type of results it produces.

Here's a shot I took today at the Satatoga Automobile Museum. My wife and I stopped on a whim and I only had my 50mm lens. I also don't have a tripod, yet, so had to shoot most of my photos at a much higher ISO than I typically prefer.
9430378423_600f402940_b.jpg
 
OP the t2i should have a "night portrait" mode that works in conjunction with the on-camera flash. It's not perfect but can work out really well. Turn the dial to the icon of the little dude with a moon and mess around with it a bit. When I was shooting nightclubs it was my go-to for lower light situations on my rebel xsi.
 

Rentahamster

Rodent Whores
I appreciate the feedback!

I do shoot in RAW, which gives me a ton of flexibility when it comes to editing in Lightroom. I normally avoid adjusting sharpness or clarity and will start seeing what type of results it produces.

Here's a shot I took today at the Satatoga Automobile Museum. My wife and I stopped on a whim and I only had my 50mm lens. I also don't have a tripod, yet, so had to shoot most of my photos at a much higher ISO than I typically prefer.

You should use at least a little bit of sharpening. The defaults in Lightroom aren't that high. Clarity can be nice, but don't overdo it.

The 50mm can be enough for most situations. Don't worry about going to high with your ISO. Modern cameras are pretty good at that now, and besides, it's not like most people are going to be looking at your pics at 100%. Carrying a tripod around with you all the time is rather inconvenient. Practice your handholding techniques. If you need to do long exposure shots, find something to place your camera on, and then use the auto timer to trigger the shutter.
 

mrkgoo

Member
A good piece of advice I learnt a little late is: White should be white.

It was a key point to having me learn about adjusting exposure to the correct point. If something is supposed to be white, but it's grey, then it's underexposed.

Obviously, it's a guideline, not a rule. Depends what you're going for.
 

Chinner

Banned
i'm trying to get into photography, but at the moment i'm limited to my phone camera (lol :(, but its decent to be fair), is that bad?

will get a camera when i can afford one!
 
i'm trying to get into photography, but at the moment i'm limited to my phone camera (lol :(, but its decent to be fair), is that bad?

Lots of people take great photos with their phones (there's some seriously great stuff on Instagram)— you just have to work around the limitations. Something like Snapseed may be useful for getting the best out of the photos.
 

RJT

Member
You guys allways talk about lightroom/photoshop. I'm trying the rawtherapee/gimp combo. How bad is it?
 

EviLore

Expansive Ellipses
Staff Member
You guys allways talk about lightroom/photoshop. I'm trying the rawtherapee/gimp combo. How bad is it?

Rawtherapee has positive impressions from people in the photography community and GIMP is functional. I'm sure you're fine on an individual photo basis if you know your way around the apps.

You use LIghtroom or Aperture, though, for their library management and plugin capabilities in order to create an efficient workflow for thousands of photos, and that's where they really shine. I use Aperture paired with the Nik Collection plugins.
 
You use LIghtroom or Aperture, though, for their library management and plugin capabilities in order to create an efficient workflow for thousands of photos, and that's where they really shine. I use Aperture paired with the Nik Collection plugins.

Me too.

I can't imagine going back to a file-based workflow even with Bridge. If it weren't for fancy portrait shoots and ironing old-people's wrinkles I wouldn't need Photoshop at all.
 

DagsJT

Member
Is there any reason that I should use the EVF rather than the LCD on my Panasonic DMC-G10? I think I read somewhere that they're both "full frame" so I think they display the same picture anyway?
 

EviLore

Expansive Ellipses
Staff Member
Is there any reason that I should use the EVF rather than the LCD on my Panasonic DMC-G10? I think I read somewhere that they're both "full frame" so I think they display the same picture anyway?

In terms of composing, using a viewfinder vs a screen is a matter of preference, but the viewfinder can help you feel more connected to how your eyes are perceiving a scene, if that makes sense. Beyond that, bright sunlight can take a dump on LCD visibility.
 

PARANO1A

Member
I've been shooting for a few years now but haven't really reached the point where I feel comfortable that I know what I'm doing just yet. I'm very happy to have found this thread.

I have a D90 with Ken Rockwell's recommended 'dream team' of a 10-24mm wide angle, a 35mm 1.8f prime, and a 55-200mm tele zoom. I also have the kit lens of an 18-105mm along with a 50mm 1.8f that I picked up for cheap shortly after the purchase of my camera. The 35mm seems to make life 'easy mode', but I love the pics I get with my wide angle lens.

A few questions for the group from me:
- What are general opinions of Ken Rockwell and his advice? It seems very intuitive to me as a beginner (keep the camera in Programmable mode 98% of the time, set your config once and you're pretty much set besides exceptional circumstances, the process of shooting being shoot -> adjust exposure compensation if required -> adjust colour if required, etc). Am surprised he hasn't been raised in this thread before.
- What are general thoughts on filters, polarisers, etc? I've just Ebayed a polariser, grad ND and an ND which some seem to claim are 'required' for day-to-day and never left home without.
- Composition seems to be the hardest thing to learn... any great composition guides would be very much appreciated, outside of the technical guides, lighting, etc.

Cheers
 

EviLore

Expansive Ellipses
Staff Member
I've been shooting for a few years now but haven't really reached the point where I feel comfortable that I know what I'm doing just yet. I'm very happy to have found this thread.

I have a D90 with Ken Rockwell's recommended 'dream team' of a 10-24mm wide angle, a 35mm 1.8f prime, and a 55-200mm tele zoom. I also have the kit lens of an 18-105mm along with a 50mm 1.8f that I picked up for cheap shortly after the purchase of my camera. The 35mm seems to make life 'easy mode', but I love the pics I get with my wide angle lens.

A few questions for the group from me:
- What are general opinions of Ken Rockwell and his advice? It seems very intuitive to me as a beginner (keep the camera in Programmable mode 98% of the time, set your config once and you're pretty much set besides exceptional circumstances, the process of shooting being shoot -> adjust exposure compensation if required -> adjust colour if required, etc). Am surprised he hasn't been raised in this thread before.
- What are general thoughts on filters, polarisers, etc? I've just Ebayed a polariser, grad ND and an ND which some seem to claim are 'required' for day-to-day and never left home without.
- Composition seems to be the hardest thing to learn... any great composition guides would be very much appreciated, outside of the technical guides, lighting, etc.

Cheers

Ken Rockwell is a semi-joke character with possibly the worst professional photo portfolio I've seen this side of a Sears Portrait Studio. There's some good advice and observations on his website, but you don't want to be taking his word as gospel by any stretch of the imagination. Your lens kit sounds fine though, and yes, aperture priority mode for general shooting and full manual when beneficial. For composition techniques and theory, The Photographer's Eye is very detailed.
 

tino

Banned
i'm trying to get into photography, but at the moment i'm limited to my phone camera (lol :(, but its decent to be fair), is that bad?

will get a camera when i can afford one!

You need something you can control aperture and shutter speed to "learn". Right now you can learn composition.
 
The advice here is invaluable. So to all of you, once again, thank you!

I shoot predominantly in aperture priority (setting the ISO and f/stop) but am forcing myself to shoot in manual more often. I have a hard time adjusting shutter speed quickly and "miss" a few shots I wish I hadn't, but I am getting much better.
 
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