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Living the Dream: My Journey as a New Arcade Machine Owner (warning: picture heavy)

NB: Anyone who is squeemish about the molestation of an innocent arcade cabinet stop here.

About a month ago, my girlfriend sent me an email about a craigslist listing for a Nintendo VS Mario cabinet that was for a good price. Like many people who battle scarred veterans of the great console war, I have always wanted one I could call my own so without thinking I sent an email to the owner asking if I could go see it.

When I arrived at his house I went into his garage, met his beautiful puppy and saw the game. It had seen better days but overall wasn't in too bad of shape. The worst was the picture seemed to go in and out. I figured this was fixable and next thing I knew I needed to find transport.

The first thing I did was contact some moving companies. If you guys are ever in my situation, never do this. The guy quoted me at $400 which was a lot more than I was spending on the thing. Instead, I did what I should have done first and got a friend to help me with a truck.

I finally got it into my apartment and it looked fantastic.
HkaS6m8.jpg
The plug, however, did not.
It's okay though, that thing scared the hell out of me. I don't remember if it had a ground pin when I got it but it definitely didn't here. The previous owner was nice enough to provide me with a plug he bought to eventually replace it with so I went ahead and did that.
Happily, it survived the journey.
Unfortunately, the image seemed to go in and out and eventually the game reset itself and wouldn't start anymore. It seemed like it was time to get in there and work with it.

One of the first things I noticed, besides far too many dead spiders, was that some jerk lodged his balls deep inside the machine.

I've had a NeoGeo for a while that I was planning on building a supergun for until my soldering iron broke so it seemed like a good idea to me to convert the cabinet to JAMMA.

For those of you who aren't aware of what JAMMA is, it is a standard that was developed by several Japanese arcade producers so that operators could drop in new games with minimal rewiring. It has a monstrous connector that looks this.
While this came out before JAMMA, Nintendo proved early on in their tenure as a video game company that their motto was "Screw Everybody Else." This particular cabinet began its life as a Donkey Kong machine and there are two things about it that make it difficult to work with.

First off, Nintendo decided that rather than adjust the circuitry for the American electrical system it would be easier to add a transformer that converts everything from 120VAC to 100VAC. This means that when I convert it to JAMMA, I will need to work my modern power supply in there so that the monitor is running off of 100VAC and everything else is 120VAC.

Secondly, and most annoyingly, colors were defined by this machine as negative voltage signals. While at the time there was no standard, as far as I can tell the only reason to do this was out of dickishness. Every other big name game (Space Invaders, Pac-Man etc) used positive volts. And why wouldn't you? It makes no sense to say "Let's use negative." Supposedly later versions of the Unisystem were lucky enough to have an inverter circuit installed that you could switch between them as needed. Mine didn't which meant I needed to build my own.

While I was waiting for all the components for the inverter to arrive, I put the old control panel in a closet and built a new one out of pine. There's probably a lot better ways of doing this but I only have electrical tools and a drill.
I think it turned out pretty well though.
The plexiglass cover I was trying to make didn't make it though.

Next thing I needed to do was take apart the monitor. For those of you who have never had the opportunity to discharge a CRT, I highly recommend it. It's a lot of fun

While I was installing the inversion circuit, I thought it was a great opportunity to replace all of the capacitors as well since I doubt that's ever been done and is probably responsible for the variations in brightness and clarity I was experiencing earlier. On this picture, capacitors are the tall black things. If you don't know what they are, here's a very brief EE 101. They are one of the fundamental circuit elements. It's purpose is to store charge. In DC circuits they mostly adjust the current over time and in AC they adjust the phase of the current which can be useful for filtration circuits. Now, study differential equations.

Nintendo didn't make putting it together very easy putting things back together but after soldering a few wires together and hacking connectors I got everything working and could play Metal Slug. Just in time too since I'm pretty sure my girlfriend wants our dining table back. Eating on the floor gets tiring.

So what's next? My first priority is to fix the control panel. The hole for Player 1's joystick isn't quote centered properly which makes pressing up barely work. Next thing I will do is mod a Genesis and NES to JAMMA so that they can live in there as well. I bought it as a Mario machine, I think it's appropriate that an NES live in there and the Genesis is perfect for this sort thing. I think I will start modding the Genesis this weekend. Finally, this thing needs to be made more beautiful. The stickers are falling apart and I need to create some kind of overlay for my control panel.
 
Looks like a fun project, thanks for sharing.

I've been on the Internet too long, I thought for sure that dude in the video was going to shock himself.
 

galvatron

Member
Ha, exactly what I did with my cabinet minus most of the effort in customization.

Neo Geo and Genesis are pretty awesome on a cabinet.

Are you thinking of getting some capcom games with that layout or just going 6-button on genesis?
Will you just skip the D button for MVS? Plenty of great games available even if you do that...

Congrats on the rebuild!
 

suikodan

Member
I love reading cabinet conversion. I laughed at the balls in your cab.

I'm less conservative about the whole JAMMA thing though. I removed the game (SF2CE) and the monitor and replaced it with a LCD screen and a PC in my cab.

I had extra buttons so I punched extra holes in my panel to add options, good for MAME and stuff. Since a PC is inside, the wood panel below the controls (in an angle that you don't usually see) has been merged with the PC panel with ON button, USB ports, etc...

Ok, it sucks if you want that 90's look while playing games but USF4 looks and plays awesome on it.

Have fun with the rest.
 
Ha, exactly what I did with my cabinet minus most of the effort in customization.

Neo Geo and Genesis are pretty awesome on a cabinet.

Are you thinking of getting some capcom games with that layout or just going 6-button on genesis?
Will you just skip the D button for MVS? Plenty of great games available even if you do that...

Congrats on the rebuild!

All of the Neo Geo games I'm interested in right now use 3 or less buttons. I figured right now, I would wire it for a 6-button genesis controller and leave it like this in case I decide to get a Capcom game at some point.
 
Bravo Op looks amazing.

I have always yearned (yes yearned) for a Neogeo Arcade cabinet. I need to get off my dreaming wagon and get the ball rolling.


someday...someday
B7K5G7nCUAAAw3a.jpg
 

system11

Member
Sad to see another original cabinet die. At least you haven't added insult to injury and fixed the CRT rather than slinging a LCD in there.

Pro-tip - plexiglass overlay, nearly impossible to make at home, but if you take the wood to a local plastics place you can probably get one made to measure against it. Had to do this when restoring a Spanish JAMMA cabinet.
 
Sad to see another original cabinet die. At least you haven't added insult to injury and fixed the CRT rather than slinging a LCD in there.

Pro-tip - plexiglass overlay, nearly impossible to make at home, but if you take the wood to a local plastics place you can probably get one made to measure against it. Had to do this when restoring a Spanish JAMMA cabinet.

I feel you man. If this were still a Donkey Kong cab, I probably would feel a lot more hesitant to do anything other than a cap kit and just restore the artwork. However, someone else converted this a long time ago to vs Super Mario Bros and I prefer Neo Geo and Sega games anyway so I don't feel too bad about putting different hardware in there. I'm keeping everything I took out safe in storage and the only thing I did that's somewhat permanent is inverting the video signal which could be reversed with a soldering iron if need be. At least I'm not using MAME :)

Thanks fro the protip about plastic. I really need to do something about the control panel because I think just having straight wood is a bad solution. I learned the hard way in about 5 seconds about doing it myself.

I envy your handyman skills. How did you learn to do all this?

I'm actually pretty terrible. I did tech crew in high school so I barely acquired woodworking skills from that and I went to university for electrical engineering so that's where my electrical skills come from I guess. I didn't do anything that required an EE degree here though and, honestly, I barely did any soldering in my university. My first big soldering project was overclocking and region modding a Genesis. If you buy yourself a soldering iron and a drill you can do it too.
 

system11

Member
Thanks fro the protip about plastic. I really need to do something about the control panel because I think just having straight wood is a bad solution. I learned the hard way in about 5 seconds about doing it myself.

Yeah it just shatters with a standard drill and hole cutter. You have three options:

1) Get someone else to make to measure a perspex cover. A good plastics place will have some of the scratchproof stuff, normal will haze up after a weeks use. Fit printed art between wood and cover. I've done this myself a few times, it works.

2) Along the front edge, cut a channel and fit T-molding, use adhesive lexan overlay on the panel surface. Also done this, it works better.

3) Sand a curve into the front of the panel, you'd want the curve to start about half an inch in, then see above adhesive lexan overlay, except curving without needing the molding.

I think I'd go with option 2, try to get the panel cut into wood the same thickness as the original cab and find some molding which will match what's already on there. Approach arcade art repro sellers, these guys tend to have their own printing machines so one-off requests aren't a huge problem if you can supply the art in a relevant (vector) format.

Here's one I did as part of a resto - perspex made by supplying original (way more cracked than the photo looks) as a pattern. Friend vectored the art from scans.

mm_newcp.jpg


And here's one I had custom made - I made the wood panel part (unusually for a JP style cab it has a sunken in wooden panel) and gave them that as a pattern for the perspex:

INcab3.jpg


I actually had the art printed from a high res jpg for that one.
 
2) Along the front edge, cut a channel and fit T-molding, use adhesive lexan overlay on the panel surface. Also done this, it works better.

INcab3.jpg


I actually had the art printed from a high res jpg for that one.

We don't really have any plastics places around here that I know about. This seems like my best choice. Sounds like I need a router. The learning experience in this whole project is almost as fun as the games themselves. :)

That looks great by the way. I do love the Japanese style cabs.

I have a lot to think about. Thanks for the feedback.
 
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