NeoGAF Arcade Stick Thread

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yeah so someone posted in the December I bought this thread, a white fight stick with a sorta hentai type picture girl sorta bending over with blue panties......Yeah so anyone know what that is or is it a custom picture put on.

Or where to get one?

if its custom is it easy to put on any picture underneath? Never owned a fightstick.
 
zugzug said:
yeah so someone posted in the December I bought this thread, a white fight stick with a sorta hentai type picture girl sorta bending over with blue panties......Yeah so anyone know what that is or is it a custom picture put on.

Or where to get one?

if its custom is it easy to put on any picture underneath? Never owned a fightstick.

I think its MarkMans ChunLi (but not really ChunLi) stick.
 
MarkMan said:
Some pics for some upcoming articles I'm throwing up on SDTEKKEN site:

4162447886_61d67e6a92_o.jpg

Wow, so am I correct in seeing those and thinking Hori is finally ditching that awful case design for their other RAPs? Those things are incredibly annoying to get into.
 
I'm indifferent on the new Hori sticks. Gotta love the layout/closeness to the cabinet design. But they are large and they look like they'll suffer the same problem as the lower end Hori sticks, not enough room to rest your wrists. Maybe it's just the angle. Gonna keep my eye on them though.
 
Also compatible with PC? I just happen to be building one in Feb and my friend played SF4 on PC! Plus they look sooo good. I'm getting one.
 
Is there any shots of it with someone actually holding it or having their hands on it?Doesn't look like it will fit in my carry bag I take for tourneys :lol
 
Ok, I did it. I ordered a TE stick from Amazon UK.

A few questions:

Is this a 'Round 2' Stick? or is it just one which amazon have been holding for a long time?


It has a headset port right? and if it does is it any good?

Any tips for my first few days with the stick?
 
Subliminal42 said:
Any tips for my first few days with the stick?


If you're new to a stick, it has to be parroted:
DO NOT GIVE UP.

Your game will suffer when you start using it. That just happens because you're not used to it. Give it some time, particularly because it's a square gate and not circular/octagonal like some arcade sticks. To me, execution with "rolling" type moves like QCF, HCF, etc were always more difficult on square until I got used to it.

I would suggest not going back to pad at all while you get used to it or you will set yourself back. It may take weeks to get used to it depending on how much you play, but find the most comfortable position for YOU when holding the stick itself and you'll eventually be used to it.
 
OK arcade stick/cabinet GAF gurus (I'm looking at you MarkMan!), I need your assistance! I purchased a cabinet a couple of days ago:

image-DC4E_4B188649.jpg


And I'm going to be replacing the top panel with one I make myself. It's going to be an exact copy of the current board's shape so it fits right back in, but I'm going to put a 2 player layout on it (apparently this cabinet was used for some hunting game with a weird layout). This is where you guys come in. I have some basic/general questions I'm hoping I can get some help with:

- Since I'm going to be working with wood I'm going to use threaded OBSN-30s. I need to know how tall these buttons are from the outer rim down. Basically what I'm trying to figure out is how thick of wood I can buy while still leaving enough room for the nut to grab the threading.

- For the layout I'm thinking of using the Sega Astro City 1P/2P layout for 1P/2P respectively on my stick (I'm toying with the idea of making one side all Sanwa and the other all Seimitsu). So basically it's going to be this:

2L12B_CP.jpg

(Sorry for the picture size)

The bottom view is from the top so that's the angle I'll be working from. What I need to know, and it doesn't necessarily have to match the Sega Astro City dimensions (though if someone had one it would help), is the space between 1P's third column of buttons and 2P's joystick hole. I want to make sure both players have the proper amount of space.

- Finally, and this can be easily answered by anyone with Sega Astro City experience, but are both the 1P and 2P layouts compatible (in terms of space) with the Sanwa nuts? Both layouts can be seen here with proper dimensions:

http://slagcoin.com/joystick/layout/sega1.png

http://slagcoin.com/joystick/layout/sega2.png

On Slagcoin.com, they make no mention of OBSNs being problematic with these layouts yet they do for the Vewlix layout. So I'm optimistic they'll work, but just want to double check.

Thanks guys!
 
AZ Greg said:
- Since I'm going to be working with wood I'm going to use threaded OBSN-30s. I need to know how tall these buttons are from the outer rim down. Basically what I'm trying to figure out is how thick of wood I can buy while still leaving enough room for the nut to grab the threading.

- For the layout I'm thinking of using the Sega Astro City 1P/2P layout for 1P/2P respectively on my stick (I'm toying with the idea of making one side all Sanwa and the other all Seimitsu). So basically it's going to be this:

...snip...

The bottom view is from the top so that's the angle I'll be working from. What I need to know, and it doesn't necessarily have to match the Sega Astro City dimensions (though if someone had one it would help), is the space between 1P's third column of buttons and 2P's joystick hole. I want to make sure both players have the proper amount of space.

- Finally, and this can be easily answered by anyone with Sega Astro City experience, but are both the 1P and 2P layouts compatible (in terms of space) with the Sanwa nuts? Both layouts can be seen here with proper dimensions:

...snip...

...snip...

On Slagcoin.com, they make no mention of OBSNs being problematic with these layouts yet they do for the Vewlix layout. So I'm optimistic they'll work, but just want to double check.

Thanks guys!

1) Measuring, 1/2" SHOULD work and give you just enough threading for the nut to still grab the button. I might suggest 7/16" or 3/8" if you can manage it just to give yourself some space to get them tight, but the amount you get with 1/2" should be enough.

2) Slagcoin has the Astro City dimensions. If you look under standard layouts it shows them along with measurements.

3) There shouldn't be a problem with the OSBNs. Heck, I've got a 6-button Vewlix layout and the buttons fit just fine, they're just a tiny bit more difficult to fit into for threading since my fingers are so big.
 
hey guys i have a question. Has someone some links / tutorials that explain how i do a dual mod. I want to mod my madcatz sf4 se PS3 stick to work for both 360 and PS3 (Mushihimesamas fault :( ;P )

so yeha please help me out :) !?
 
hikarutilmitt said:
I would suggest not going back to pad at all while you get used to it or you will set yourself back. It may take weeks to get used to it depending on how much you play, but find the most comfortable position for YOU when holding the stick itself and you'll eventually be used to it.
I wish i would have known that :(
 
Any tips on cleaning a HRAP stick guys? My hands sweat when I play for any length of time, & the top of my stick has gone a bit grotty - I want to swap out the buttons anway, so thought that might be the ideal time to give it the once over.
 
anyone:

Flek said:
hey guys i have a question. Has someone some links / tutorials that explain how i do a dual mod. I want to mod my madcatz sf4 se PS3 stick to work for both 360 and PS3 (Mushihimesamas fault :( ;P )

so yeha please help me out :) !?
 
hikarutilmitt said:
1) Measuring, 1/2" SHOULD work and give you just enough threading for the nut to still grab the button. I might suggest 7/16" or 3/8" if you can manage it just to give yourself some space to get them tight, but the amount you get with 1/2" should be enough.

2) Slagcoin has the Astro City dimensions. If you look under standard layouts it shows them along with measurements.

3) There shouldn't be a problem with the OSBNs. Heck, I've got a 6-button Vewlix layout and the buttons fit just fine, they're just a tiny bit more difficult to fit into for threading since my fingers are so big.

Thanks for the answers. With regards to question 2, I don't think we're on the same page. I've found the layouts for both 1P and 2P Astro City on Slagcoin, but Slagcoin has them separated and not the dimensions for the two together (unless I'm missing it). What I was hoping to find out was the space between the 3rd column of P1's buttons and P2's joystick hole so I could space them apart properly. This can probably only be answered by someone with the panel on hand.
 
AZ Greg said:
Thanks for the answers. With regards to question 2, I don't think we're on the same page. I've found the layouts for both 1P and 2P Astro City on Slagcoin, but Slagcoin has them separated and not the dimensions for the two together (unless I'm missing it). What I was hoping to find out was the space between the 3rd column of P1's buttons and P2's joystick hole so I could space them apart properly. This can probably only be answered by someone with the panel on hand.

If my math-fu via gimp is accurate you'll be looking at about 150mm or so between the 3rd column on P1 and the hole for the shaft on P2. I'll see if I can get some better measurements unless someone like MM comes in with some real ones form his panel.
 
hikarutilmitt said:
Give it some time, particularly because it's a square gate and not circular/octagonal like some arcade sticks. To me, execution with "rolling" type moves like QCF, HCF, etc were always more difficult on square until I got used to it.

I've already ordered my TE but after a few google searches I've seen all sorts of talk about how you should ideally fit an octagonal gate

1. Is it really better/easier to play with an octagonal gate?

2. Is it hard to fit one for someone with no experience of modding peripherals?
 
chunk3rvd said:
I've already ordered my TE but after a few google searches I've seen all sorts of talk about how you should ideally fit an octagonal gate

1. Is it really better/easier to play with an octagonal gate?

2. Is it hard to fit one for someone with no experience of modding peripherals?

If you used to frequent American arcades and used Happ sticks then it'll take some getting used to using a a square gate and ball top. Honestly, it's not TOO bad if you practice with it.

Changing the stick itself to an octagonal gate is super easy. The original just pops off and the octagonal pops on. If it were an SE with its Sanwa knockoff it might have been an issue, but for a TE and a real JLF it just changes easily.
 
I've got a stupid newbish question.

I've never owned a stick before, but considering that I love 2d platformers, shmups, and old school fighters I'm pretty much an idiot.

My main console is 360, and I'm planning on buying the SE SFIV stick. I see that it's pretty easy to replace the stick/buttons on this stick, so my question is probably common sense: Can I use a combination of a Sanwa stick and Seimitsu buttons?
 
JLateralus said:
I've got a stupid newbish question.

I've never owned a stick before, but considering that I love 2d platformers, shmups, and old school fighters I'm pretty much an idiot.

My main console is 360, and I'm planning on buying the SE SFIV stick. I see that it's pretty easy to replace the stick/buttons on this stick, so my question is probably common sense: Can I use a combination of a Sanwa stick and Seimitsu buttons?

Absolutely. I actually use a Sanwa JLF with Seimitsu buttons because I prefer them to be slightly less sensitive than Sanwa buttons.
 
hikarutilmitt said:
Absolutely. I actually use a Sanwa JLF with Seimitsu buttons because I prefer them to be slightly less sensitive than Sanwa buttons.

Thanks! From what I've read about both manufacturers this is the exact reason that I wanted to do this.
 
I use sanwa stick for fighters and seimitsu for pretty much everything else, but I use sanwa buttons for everything. I love the hypersensitive feel. It makes some shooters a lot easier because you don't have to move your finger as much to rapid fire and it feels so much more responsive for fighters.
 
Does anyone have some pictures of Red and Blue Sanwa parts? Preferably next to each other. I'm thinking of going all red for 1P and all blue for 2P on my cabinet, but the Sanwa red seems dark and the blue seems light. Just wondering how they'll jive. Being that I'm limited to the OBSN colors, I'm either going red/blue, all red, all blue, or all white. Thanks!
 
Those new HRAP's look absolutely sweet, but i wonder if it's just from seeing only pictures, but is the stick/wrist area, however you put it, same as HRAP's of old, as the wrist room seems off.

But screw that, the pics of them flipped open had me shut up instantly.
 
Halvie said:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002FKYPU4/?tag=neogaf0e-20

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002FL0T8U/?tag=neogaf0e-20

want to pick up the EX-SE for the price and I don't even have a 360...yet

edit: the EX-SE is pc compatible right? Might pick it up for SFIV pc.


I just noticed the price on the Real Arcade Pro for PS3. I have the MadCatz Te stick for 360 and I only used it once before my 360 died, so I was thinking of finally selling it for $80 or $90 and picking up the the PS3 stick. Although, a part of me wants to keep that one also for future two player gaming on the PC.

Bah! That price is too tempting.

And I believe the Ex-SE is pc compatible. Don't listen to me for final word, though.
 
wackojackosnose said:
Damn, I have the same problem as some of these guys, specifically that my PC recognizes the USB stick but doesn't actually register any button presses.

I'll test it out again later.

Hmm.


Yeah it's obviously a MADCATZ issue: I modified the hell out of my TE (basically hacked a DS3 w an axisdapter to make it wireless) and it works flawlessly using a set of drivers I downloaded. Before the MOD the TE stick was basically a paperweight on PC.
 
Got the Twin Stick in earlier today. Built like a tank. I opened it up to check it out, as is custom when I get a new stick. The top buttons are 24s and and the center button between the sticks is a 30, all Hori stock. $20 will get them up to speed.

P1030223.jpg
 
Nakazato said:
General Question: should i change my stick and buttons at least once a year ??
Uh, are they broken or something? If not, no. But it can't be that bad of an idea to have spare lying around, just in case.
 
Nakazato said:
General Question: should i change my stick and buttons at least once a year ??
It all depends on how often you use the stick and how rough you play. I wouldnt place a set time on replacing them. You will know when you need to replace them. Most people I know usually get tired of the color and replace them long before they wear out :lol
 
Rufus said:
Uh, are they broken or something? If not, no. But it can't be that bad of an idea to have spare lying around, just in case.

I think i have a few button on their way out some times the input on those buttons are either slow or dont input at all.

Zertez said:
It all depends on how often you use the stick and how rough you play. I wouldnt place a set time on replacing them. You will know when you need to replace them. Most people I know usually get tired of the color and replace them long before they wear out :lol
:lol I wish had enough money to replace button every 1 or so :P
 
MarkMan said:
Some pics for some upcoming articles I'm throwing up on SDTEKKEN site:

4162447886_61d67e6a92_o.jpg


4161688133_7d59d36d60_o.jpg


http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4037/4162447798_ba38d70f0e_o.jpg[IMG]

[IMG]http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2770/4162447778_91672afc5a_o.jpg[IMG][/QUOTE]

Oh man, I am so glad I came in here and saw this. I was just about to go looking for a TE, when I saw this bad boy. Hollllyyyyyy hellll that is what I'm talking about, Hori.

Please tell me the stock parts in this bad boy are as good as a TE stick?
 
Arpharmd B said:
Oh man, I am so glad I came in here and saw this. I was just about to go looking for a TE, when I saw this bad boy. Hollllyyyyyy hellll that is what I'm talking about, Hori.

Please tell me the stock parts in this bad boy are as good as a TE stick?

They are...that is like the Hori version of the TE.
 
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