SiegfriedFM
Member
I just replaced the old Sanwa sticks and buttons on my VF3 cabinet with new ones and it made a world of difference. And it's so easy. Now I'm thinking of updating my Hori RAP3...
NeoGAF Arcade Stick Thread
- Thread starter MarkMan
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The LS-56/-01 is stiffer than the LS-32. You might want to verify, however, that it is in fact an LS-32 before you order a replacement.
I just got an LS-56-01 myself, after hearing about it here, and after putting a bat top on one of my LS-32-01s made it seem less stiff than it actually was. It's probably because of the increased leverage of the bat top, or at least that's what I'm guessing. The LS-56-01 and bat top combo still feels to me like a Japanese stick, but with a stiffness that begins to approach that of American parts. I like it.
I just got an LS-56-01 myself, after hearing about it here, and after putting a bat top on one of my LS-32-01s made it seem less stiff than it actually was. It's probably because of the increased leverage of the bat top, or at least that's what I'm guessing. The LS-56-01 and bat top combo still feels to me like a Japanese stick, but with a stiffness that begins to approach that of American parts. I like it.
so after trying (and failing) over 4 times to restore what I had before as art (different stores, different methods of adhesion, different methods of lamination), I finally came up with a temporary solution so that the stick is at least playable.
Double-Sided tape actually proved itself to not just be stronger than spray on adhesive, but it comes off easier as well (trying to get spray-on adhesive off the metal bracket is hell)
two problems right now though.
1. Double-Sided tape has thickness to it, so it's raised a bit more than regular art. Kinda makes the edges a bit more uncomfortable as the corners of the laminated art are exposed. I think this can be fixed with a bit more careful placement of the double-sided tape though.
Also, since it's raised, the area around the buttons are depressed at bit. It gives it a rather interesting look.
2. I tried about 3-4 different shops to get the best quality art printed possible, turns out even with same retail chain no two stores print the exact same file the same. The original place i printed it at actually had surprisingly good quality, the other stores, not so much. So right now the art on the stick is a bit lighter, looks more like something that was printed on a regular printer (I don't even know how or why my original art printed out so well)
Interesting thing is it's not really black anymore, but more dark grey. Some Dark Hai buttons would look nice on it, but $1.50 for a freaking button plunger? Screw that.
All in all i got it looking somewhat respectable again, but "sexiest SE in the world" it isn't anymore
Double-Sided tape actually proved itself to not just be stronger than spray on adhesive, but it comes off easier as well (trying to get spray-on adhesive off the metal bracket is hell)
two problems right now though.
1. Double-Sided tape has thickness to it, so it's raised a bit more than regular art. Kinda makes the edges a bit more uncomfortable as the corners of the laminated art are exposed. I think this can be fixed with a bit more careful placement of the double-sided tape though.
Also, since it's raised, the area around the buttons are depressed at bit. It gives it a rather interesting look.
2. I tried about 3-4 different shops to get the best quality art printed possible, turns out even with same retail chain no two stores print the exact same file the same. The original place i printed it at actually had surprisingly good quality, the other stores, not so much. So right now the art on the stick is a bit lighter, looks more like something that was printed on a regular printer (I don't even know how or why my original art printed out so well)
Interesting thing is it's not really black anymore, but more dark grey. Some Dark Hai buttons would look nice on it, but $1.50 for a freaking button plunger? Screw that.
All in all i got it looking somewhat respectable again, but "sexiest SE in the world" it isn't anymore
sixteen-bit
Member
If you don't mind non-sanwa branded plugs, yenox makes a knockoff that's a bit cheaper.
I want to buy a Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT-SK, but LizardLick doesn't have it in stock. I was looking at the normal JLF-TP-8YT. I'm not sure what to to do with it if I buy it because they say it's a bit different. Anyone know if the JLF-TP-8YT would work on my TvC stick and if I have to do anything with it before removing the old stick and replacing it with the JLF-TP-8YT?
NeoGIF
Member
MarkMan said:Oh yeah, I forgot to mention!
We're selling a bundle with 6 buttons ($50), so you save money ($5) opposed to getting the buttons individually. Check it:
*Yes I know they aren't black, they're DH.
http://store.gameshark.com/listCategoriesAndProducts.asp?idCategory=328
I ordered this bad boy to use with my original TE. I plan on purchasing a bat-top, would like to switch out the Square-gate to an Octo-gate.
So, my question - what all do I need to make the switch over to an Octo-gate?
CountAntonius
Member
Those buttons look like dark hai.
Frank "Trashman" Reynolds
Banned
NeoGIF said:
You need an octogate.
Frank "Trashman" Reynolds
Banned
Decent deal with those extra buttons, but I'm not going through the trouble of canceling my order and then redoing it.
And I thought there was also only 300 of these panels available?
And I thought there was also only 300 of these panels available?
CadetMahoney
Member
Threi said:
Use Carpet Tape, not ordinary double sided tape. Carpet tape is stronger and still has the desireable properties of being removable. Cut thin strips and place around the edge where there is a possibility of the art lifitng off. Use thing strips sparingly in other areas. You do not need to or want to cover the whole face with it.
With the issue of raised art. If it was laminated art with 250 micron laminate a single strip of carpet tape shouldn't lift it. If it does you can pad out the non tape areas with paper/card etc. Alternatively you can dupliacte the existing template with card and leave some areas for the carpet tape.
Specs would help dots per inch etc. they used actual "photo quality paper" of at least 200gsm?
MarkMan
loves Arcade Sticks
NeoGIF said:
IMHO, octagonal gate sucks on Sanwa. If you want something more 'old school' feeling, go with the GT-C adapter that toodles made. You can find it at Lizard Lick, here's a link:
http://www.lizardlick.com/Sanwa-GT-C-Round-Restrictor-Plate-Insert_p_616.html
Frank "Trashman" Reynolds said:Decent deal with those extra buttons, but I'm not going through the trouble of canceling my order and then redoing it.
And I thought there was also only 300 of these panels available?
Yes, you're correct, there are less than 300.
Heavy's Sandvich
Member
Had it not been for the Madcatz stick that I bought originally, I wouldn't bother with arcade sticks at all. I was in central London on Thursday coming back from work and there I saw the Hori Ex Pro 3 for quite a reasonable price.
I want it so badly.
I want it so badly.
Thanks for the advice, I'll look into that if I decide to change it again.CadetMahoney said:
As for printing since it's black and white i used the same setting for each store I went to: B&W Laser printed on 28lb paper. Online I sent the exact same order to two different stores and got different results.
In terms of lamination I couldn't find anywhere that did anything other than 5mm.
Linkhero1 said:
Don't bother worrying about that. You can also order a JLF-TP-8YT-SK from the MadCatz online store...they have them in stock right now.
http://store.gameshark.com/listCategoriesAndProducts.asp?idCategory=334
Focusattack.com is also a good choice but they're sold out right now, as well.
so i keep looking at my stick am like "fuck this shit" lol
this would be the right type of double-sided tape right?
http://www.homedepot.ca/webapp/wcs/...artial&Ntx=mode+matchall&N=0&Ntk=P_PartNumber
*edit*
http://min.us/mvjkLaR <- Potential new templates :O
this would be the right type of double-sided tape right?
http://www.homedepot.ca/webapp/wcs/...artial&Ntx=mode+matchall&N=0&Ntk=P_PartNumber
*edit*
http://min.us/mvjkLaR <- Potential new templates :O
I had a really bad static shock situtation the other day and now my x360 headset doesn't work with my SFIV TE anymore. All the buttons and the stick are fine, its just the headphone jack. I've double-checked to make sure its not the headset either because it works fine with my 360 pads.
Is there any place to get replacement parts for this? Or should I just get a SE stick and swap out the parts? I really want to fix it because its one of the Femme Fatale LE's. Thanks in advance.
Is there any place to get replacement parts for this? Or should I just get a SE stick and swap out the parts? I really want to fix it because its one of the Femme Fatale LE's. Thanks in advance.
It's not worth it to get a SE just for a tiny headphone jack, but no I don't think anyone sells replacement ones. There are 2.5mm jacks you can find, but those are just jacks, they have no mount, and you would have to manually wire it.
Also, considering that it's a static shock that triggered it, I think it's a PCB issue. The headphone jack is just wires.
Also, considering that it's a static shock that triggered it, I think it's a PCB issue. The headphone jack is just wires.
strikeselect
You like me, you really really like me!
Recently acquired an original TE stick for 360 and the RH button randomly stops working every now and then. I have to unplug and replug for it to work again.
I read on SRK that it's a problem with the older PCBs. Is this true? How can I fix it? Will I have to send it out to Madcatz?
I read on SRK that it's a problem with the older PCBs. Is this true? How can I fix it? Will I have to send it out to Madcatz?
sixteen-bit
Member
That gradient one is FUCKING SICK.Threi said:
Could be a loose ground wire or something, but I just sent mine back to MadCatz when I had this problem. Unfortunately this was at the height of SF4 popularity and it took a month to replace.Cerrius said:
Shoutouts to Staples not being able to print greys properly. I printed 3 of them, and all of them came out wrong. Turns out you now have to pay more to get it printed on the good printer :/
This was the only one that printed somewhat decently:
http://threi.imgur.com/new_stick_red
But yeah carpet tape is the truth.
This was the only one that printed somewhat decently:
http://threi.imgur.com/new_stick_red
But yeah carpet tape is the truth.
sixteen-bit
Member
Despite the printer/color descrepancy, that's still the best looking SE I've seen.
CountAntonius
Member
Was that always there or edited? Must have missed it.T-Matt said:
CountAntonius
Member
lol.
I spilled a little tea on my buttons a few weeks ago and ordered some replacement seimitsu buttons for the TE stick only to find out that it's kind of a pain to mod my particular version. On my version you can only unscrew from the button, which underneath there is a black underneath the hard cover covering everything up. The screws holding the black inside cover are seemingly superglued on and a bitch to take off. I was thinking of using acetone to try and free them up. Sorry for being such a late-comer to modding, but I never needed to mod it until now. I have an original Madcatz Street Fighter TE Stick, but mine is one of the last produced (July 2009).
sixteen-bit
Member
You can open every TE from the top. You just need a hex key.HiResDes said:
CryptiK said:
www.ozhadou.net
Hang around here until someone decides to do an arthobbies group buy? Shipping is harsh but is the same for one or many plexis.
Does anybody know of a way to go about replacing one of the wires that goes into the buttons on a Madcatz TE stick?...I got everything in, but I guess I pulled too hard on one of the wires and the metal connector from one of the remaining Sanwa buttons got stuck inside. I tried using a paper clip to dislodge it, but to no avail. : (
CadetMahoney
Member
Almost finished my Red Namco:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gHnvaJIEyVc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gHnvaJIEyVc
what do we get for $10.HiResDes said:
A Twisty Fluken
Member
Sooooo. This isn't a "stick," but.... Hatsune Miku Hori Controller potentially.
It's up for advance order on horistore with the usual caveats. Those of you more knowledgeable than me. Does/can horistore take international orders? This interests me.
It's up for advance order on horistore with the usual caveats. Those of you more knowledgeable than me. Does/can horistore take international orders? This interests me.
sixteen-bit
Member
HORISTORE does not ship internationally and does not ship to P.O.Boxes (so forwarding services like Tenso are out too). Hopefully you know someone in Japan :/A Twisty Fluken said:
Nose Master
Member
Karsticles
Member
Hello,
I own a HRAP V3 SA which I play MvC3 with, and I haven't ever really been satisfied with the ball-top. I thought I had to buy a fully new part to replace it with a bat-top, but then I found links to these:
http://www.lizardlick.com/Sanwa-Bat-Top-Adapter_p_233.html
http://www.lizardlick.com/Sanwa-LB-30-N-Bat-Top-Black_p_276.html
Is there an easy way I can just unscrew the ball-top and slap the bat-top on? Also, part of my frustration is the ball-top can turn freely when I use it, and sometimes this leads to execution errors with my style for holding it. Will the bat-top, with this add-on, suffer the same fate?
Thanks in advance for any and all information! Video/picture references are appreciated.
I own a HRAP V3 SA which I play MvC3 with, and I haven't ever really been satisfied with the ball-top. I thought I had to buy a fully new part to replace it with a bat-top, but then I found links to these:
http://www.lizardlick.com/Sanwa-Bat-Top-Adapter_p_233.html
http://www.lizardlick.com/Sanwa-LB-30-N-Bat-Top-Black_p_276.html
Is there an easy way I can just unscrew the ball-top and slap the bat-top on? Also, part of my frustration is the ball-top can turn freely when I use it, and sometimes this leads to execution errors with my style for holding it. Will the bat-top, with this add-on, suffer the same fate?
Thanks in advance for any and all information! Video/picture references are appreciated.
sixteen-bit
Member
Yeah the bat top will still turn. The JLF stick lever itself is what's turning, not just the top.Karsticles said:
To install, unscrew the HRAP's bottom metal plate. This will grant you access to the underside of the JLF. All you need to do is hold the stick lever in place from the bottom using a flathead screwdriver and the ball-top will screw off if you twist it.
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