Rentahamster
Rodent Whores
They patented it 4 years ago.
https://nikonrumors.com/2013/01/12/nikons-patent-for-a-hybrid-viewfinder-ovf-evf.aspx/
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NeoGAF Camera Equipment Thread | MK II
- Thread starter MRORANGE
- Start date
They patented it 4 years ago.
https://nikonrumors.com/2013/01/12/nikons-patent-for-a-hybrid-viewfinder-ovf-evf.aspx/
The weird thing with that patent is the need to turn camera 90 degrees to use the EVF. Leaked image doesn't show having 2 VFs. But then again it could have changed since.
sankt-Antonio
:^)--?-<
milkham
Member
is that a gun case?
sankt-Antonio
:^)--?-<
Amazon sells these cases in their basic line of products. I got one for my camera stuff as well, cost is next to nothing.
Pretty much. It was the perfect size and seems sturdy enough. I hated carrying the box the Blackmagic came in when going to shoots.
D
Deleted member 17706
Unconfirmed Member
Sounds super cool. Seems like Angry Photographer is convinced that it will be a hybrid viewfinder, too.
Will this also help with Live View on the LCD? I don't know exactly what causes the lag between pressing the shutter button and the image being captured, but if they can fix that, too, then this camera will pretty much eliminate the major advantages that MILC have over DSLR.
Rentahamster
Rodent Whores
We shall see. It's still mostly speculation at this point. NikonRumors guy hasn't confirmed anything of the sort, but he deals more in the realm of solid leaks from vetted sources. Hybrid optical/EVF aside, the leaked details so far are promising.
Rentahamster
Rodent Whores
NikonRumors guy just poured cold water all over the EVF speculation lol
I spent a few days looking into power supply options for my A7S documentary rig.
After looking at the $500 I'd likely need to spend on a battery plate, battery, and charger for my rail system, I decided to sidestep that entire market and do the sensible thing. I bought a $50 5v-to-7.5v converter cable that regulates a USB battery pack's output into dummy-battery approved voltage in any FW50 battery camera. This includes my A7S and A6000. I did two 30 min recording tests and the camera ran great. In fact, the body is now running cooler due to external power.
A little math:
A 15,000 mAh USB battery I bought for $35 has the effective longevity of 9x FW-50 Sony batteries, now.
The only issue? Amperage. Taking a picture with the A7S results in the camera turning off when the power supply can't give the camera the current it wants. I blame this on the 2.1 amps being supplied, so I might go and grab a 2.4 amp battery to see if this fixes the issue.
After looking at the $500 I'd likely need to spend on a battery plate, battery, and charger for my rail system, I decided to sidestep that entire market and do the sensible thing. I bought a $50 5v-to-7.5v converter cable that regulates a USB battery pack's output into dummy-battery approved voltage in any FW50 battery camera. This includes my A7S and A6000. I did two 30 min recording tests and the camera ran great. In fact, the body is now running cooler due to external power.
A little math:
- FW-50 battries give 7.4v, 1050 mAh
- This USB battery pack gives out 5v, 15,000 mAh
- 5v = 67.6% of 7.4v
- .676 x 15,000 mAh = ~10,140 mAh
- 10,140 / 1,050 = ~9.
A 15,000 mAh USB battery I bought for $35 has the effective longevity of 9x FW-50 Sony batteries, now.
The only issue? Amperage. Taking a picture with the A7S results in the camera turning off when the power supply can't give the camera the current it wants. I blame this on the 2.1 amps being supplied, so I might go and grab a 2.4 amp battery to see if this fixes the issue.
JadedWriter
Member
I'm not phased either way. It's still essentially a higher res, cheaper, slightly slower D5 with better image output.
D
Deleted member 17706
Unconfirmed Member
Just looked up the D5 and had no idea it was so expensive.
Sure the D500 is a DX sensor and shoots 2 frames per second slower, but at a $5,000 difference? Seems like the best value Nikon camera. If the D850 is going to be a full frame and higher res version of that, then it seems like it will be the sweet spot, EVF or not.
Rentahamster
Rodent Whores
The more pro your gear gets, the more expensive each little increment of performance increase or build quality becomes. It's diminishing returns, but if you need it, you can pay for it.
JadedWriter
Member
Exactly. D5 is way over priced, i'd never buy that over a D500 or D850. D5 is for sports shooters. The other ones just seem more versatile. I'd never use a D5 for portraits or street photography.
JadedWriter
Member
Sweet jesus the ergo on a D3100 is abysmal. It's just...bad, anything without a physical is button is just...wrong. it might be camera body elitism but I hate those things. I think they destroy the flow of on the go street photography. One should be able to change things on the spot as quickly as possible. That button layout is just bad for that type of stuff.
In sub-menu "Buttons" remap fn button to ISO.
You can also enable back button focus there by remapping AF/AE
JadedWriter
Member
Wasn't my camera, was some tourists. They just don't feel right to me. Dude asked me to take a picture of his family with it with the kit lens and pretty much something I could do instantly on my camera, the more complicated one, just wasn't happening on that thing. I like physical buttons.
In sub-menu "Buttons" remap fn button to ISO.
You can also enable back button focus there by remapping AF/AE
theepicoftyler
Member
Is there a way to run the a6000 straight off of USB power? Anytime I've tried to plug it in to external power and use it, I just get the USB connected screen. It would be amazing to just connect it to my Mophie and go.
Astral/H3X
Member
You'll need an adapter, I'm afraid. I forget the reason, but the earlier models won't let you charge and shoot, I believe due to overheating concerns.
You couldn't just frame the shot and press the shutter button in auto or p mode?
ShadowKingpin
Member
What's everyone's opinion on the Rokinon Cine lenses for M4/3rds?
Astral/H3X
Member
Rokinon/Samyang is very good value typically, particularly since you aren't looking for AF in video. That being said, I've never used their lenses either for video, or on M4/3rds. I love them for my A7II though.
ShadowKingpin
Member
Now, are they the exact same company and aren't the lenses exactly the same, or am I crazy? I noticed a little price difference.
Astral/H3X
Member
Rokinon and Samyang, as you'll usually see them, are *completely identical*. Samyang is the actual manufacturer and Rokinon is just a distributor/licensor/some shit. But apart from the name printed on the lens, they are 100% the same. Get whichever brand you like/is cheapest.
ShadowKingpin
Member
Sweet. Many thanks for the clearing up. For someone in film, would these lenses be a fantastic choice over native Panasonic lenses? I don't use AF, so if it's great quality and saves me money, I'll pull the trigger on the Cine lenses.
JadedWriter
Member
No cause I'm stupid and used to shooting in manual without the pop up flash. But that's literally what I ended up doing.
Astral/H3X
Member
You'll have to evaluate that on a case by case basis, but I'd say generally it's a pretty good bet. There's a few cases where they maybe go "too far" into value territory (the 85mm 1.4 isn't the sharpest wide open... But then again, is only like $200), but for the most part they present good value. And, Im not sure but don't quote me on this, I'm not sure if Panny makes any native cine lenses themselves. At least, not that are manual focus with gearing for rigs.
One other company you might look for, I can't remember their name, but they made their name more or less making cine lenses for M4/3rds, and are notable for making lenses that are all the same dimensions, so the gearing is in the same spot and won't need adjustments to the rig when changing lenses. But, I don't remember their name or value etc, so EH.
ShadowKingpin
Member
My apologies. Panasonic doesn't make cine lenses, but I know quite a few YouTube videos showcase them over cine, so I was curious as I have never owned cine lenses before. Now, for your last part, are you referring to Voigtlander? Those lenses are made so well and have insanely low apertures.
D
Deleted member 17706
Unconfirmed Member
That will often get you a shit result if there are multiple subjects who aren't in a perfect line.
GoldenEye 007
Member
So just popping back in here after my initial few posts. I'm still not going to buy immediately, but I was very intrigued by the Nikon D5300 recommendation. Just a good looking entry level but also mid-range option. With the 18-140mm lens, it's a bit more than I would like to spend even when looking at places like ebay.
But is it accurate to say that with just an 18-140mm lens, it would cover a vast majority of shots - from portraits, standard shots, and the occasional distance? The lens options do appear to be dizzying, but I can understand the importance of variety. I'd just want a balance of variety and portability if I was traveling.
Long term, would a good amount of options be a prime portrait lens at 35 or 55mm, an all in one zoom like 18-140 or 18-200, and a more true telephoto at like up to 200-300? Then maybe finally a macro lens?
But is it accurate to say that with just an 18-140mm lens, it would cover a vast majority of shots - from portraits, standard shots, and the occasional distance? The lens options do appear to be dizzying, but I can understand the importance of variety. I'd just want a balance of variety and portability if I was traveling.
Long term, would a good amount of options be a prime portrait lens at 35 or 55mm, an all in one zoom like 18-140 or 18-200, and a more true telephoto at like up to 200-300? Then maybe finally a macro lens?
JadedWriter
Member
Your basic kit lens is a starter lens or "hey it's sunny as fuck out so I can take pictures with this" lens. It'll get you started on realizing what focal lengths you like shooting at and at some point you can start eyeballing some 2.8 glass or a really good prime. They're not life long investment glass.
Rentahamster
Rodent Whores
Take a bunch of pictures with the kit lens for a while. After you've gotten a good feel for it, organize your photos and figure out:
1. Which focal lengths you use the most.
2. Out of those focal lengths, which ones did you use the most in the darkest areas.
With this info, you can determine which prime lens you'd probably get the most use.
3. Buy a prime lens in a focal length that you use often in dark areas.
Or
You can look back at your photos and think about which kind of subject you like taking pics of the most, (e.g. landscapes, people, bugs, birds, sports, inanimate objects, etc), and then google around to see which kind of lens is best suited for that kind of photography.
JadedWriter
Member
He just better hope he doesn't use 105mm or 135 mm, those primes are expensive but I think my next prime will be a 135 F2. The background destruction on those things is crazy.
Astral/H3X
Member
UGH I thought I already replied to this. Forgot I had this post 90% written before closing the tab on my phone dammit.
So, Panny native vs a Cine lens basically boils down to how you're gonna balance your usage of the camera. If it's going to be 50/50 stills/video, I'd probably err on the side of getting Panny native lenses - they aren't terrible for video, they just... I guess I'd say they limit your ceiling, as it were. But, using a cine lens for stills can be a bit awkward, but again not terrible. If you're going to be using it almost exclusively video, how are you going to be using it? If you're looking at cine lenses at all, I'm assuming there's probably a shoulder rig or something of that nature, where you'll be benefited by having geared focus and aperture. In that case, screw panny lenses, they'll hold you back.
And no, I wasn't referring to Voigtlander, I looked it up and it's the Veydra lenses that I was referring to. Again, most of their advantages that I'm aware of come from rig based usage, but definitely worth a look. I don't know how they stack up to Rokinon/Samyang in terms of value (partly because Rokinon's value proposition changes from lens to lens), but if I were kitting out a whole set and was planning on a rig, I'm lazy so not having to adjust the gears on a rig would make the Veydra's pretty attractive.
Again -- I'm not a video guy, so this is all info I've soaked up just looking around online. I'm sure an actual video guy could give you a lot more insight than I can.
ShadowKingpin
Member
Sweet, thanks so much! I'll just nab the Rokinon Cine DS set since I am buying a shoulder rig. I may nab a Voigtlander as well for that insane aperture. I'll also look into Veydra lenses to see their quality.
Astral/H3X
Member
I'm actually bored and curious enough to have taken a quick look at this haha, and found this comparison between Rokinon and Veydra:
http://noamkroll.com/veydra-mft-cinema-lens-kit-review-rokinon-cine-lens-comparison/
In targeting M4/3rds specifically, Veydra manages to get in some really solid advantages over the Rokinon's, it looks like. The Rokinon lenses are targetting full 35mm coverage, which when you consider a lens's "pixel density" (not really the correct term but idgaf), means it's not nearly as sharp as the M4/3rds focused Veydras, when used on M4/3ds cameras. He also mentions they are very, very consistent from lens to lens, so color matching was far easier for him.
The Rokinons are cheaper though, and do go to wider open apertures, as well as of course covering full frame sensors, so it's a matter of priorities, it's not really a wash either way.
ShadowKingpin
Member
Yeah, I checked out some websites and videos, and boy are the Veydra's sharp as hell for their price. The lens construction is superb and the consistency among the primes definitely makes these a buy over the Rokinon's.
Astral/H3X
Member
Yeah, I love my Rokinon's, but that's for stills where consistency isn't a concern, and on a full frame sensor which they resolve much better. Glad to have helped! I knew seeing those would help some day haha.
Basically yes. They're not bad lenses and do most things ok. You're not getting any better image quality from a 55-200 or 18-55 kit-lens.
They also teach what focal lengths you like so you know what you could invest in should you want to progress.
The biggest downside is they will never be very sharp, but if you're used to compact cameras the right images will look sharp in comparison. They also don't let in a lot of light, but with some patience and maybe some grain from high ISO you can get decent indoor pictures without flash. Just don't expect to shoot moving action stuff indoors without some motion blur.
Lots of photographers use similar lenses when they're out travelling and don't wanna bother with switching and carrying lenses.
D
Deleted member 17706
Unconfirmed Member
Another exercise to add onto this in between 2 and 3 would be to try to "simulate" having a fixed focal length lens by locking yourself into, say, 50 mm for example, and not touching the zoom dial. See how you get along with physically moving yourself to frame your shots.
I find that I move a lot less when I'm using a zoom.
JadedWriter
Member
I'm getting back into the habit of moving with my zooms. It really helps in regards to filling the frame.
Rentahamster
Rodent Whores
They'll be plenty sharp at f8.
They'll be so-so sharp wide open, and not that sharp wide open in the corners.
But no one will really notice anyway.
JadedWriter
Member
I pretty much always did street photography. In the beginning I used the Nikon 18-55 and 18-105 kit lenses and noticed pretty fast that those things are soft as fuck. Pretty much you'd have to used them as F6.3 lenses to get a sharp shot out of them IE you're not really using available light or killing your image with high iso. I think they'd be fine for flash portraiture or landscape, tourist building photography.
Rentahamster
Rodent Whores
At standard web viewing, most people aren't going to notice the difference though. I mean, we might, but that's not very many people.
JadedWriter
Member
I guess. I always have been a pixel peeper.
BlueTsunami
there is joy in sucking dick
Yeah, zooming down to 1:1 and basing a decision from that for what will probably be seen from a cell phone. Good global contrast and lens coating would be more important. And making sure the person is scaling the photos down correctly with good sharpening filters in post.
I do find my sharper lenses take to sharpening filters much better picking up these great textures even when viewed from my phone on Instagram BUT I doubt someone other than me is appreciating it as much.
jongkookie
Member
Anybody know anything about a Tokina AT-X PRO 28-70 f/2.6-2.8 "Angienux"?
A friend of a friend is planning to sell his and he kinda offered me first dibs because I told him a couple of weeks ago that I might be in the market for a constant f/2.8 at a standard zoom length with AF. He hasn't told me the exact price since he doesn't know either just that it'll be less than $400.
I've looked it up online and it seems to be coveted for being an "Angienux" but apparently it's super soft at f/2.8 and 28mm so I'm like idk lol. Gonna read up on it some more but I'm curious if some of you know something about it.
A friend of a friend is planning to sell his and he kinda offered me first dibs because I told him a couple of weeks ago that I might be in the market for a constant f/2.8 at a standard zoom length with AF. He hasn't told me the exact price since he doesn't know either just that it'll be less than $400.
I've looked it up online and it seems to be coveted for being an "Angienux" but apparently it's super soft at f/2.8 and 28mm so I'm like idk lol. Gonna read up on it some more but I'm curious if some of you know something about it.
JadedWriter
Member
Yes I'd personally get an A7ii over the A7, I do believe the integration of IBIS and the better grip and control layouts are the selling points. What glass do you have for it? Body is simple to find for a decent price. The glass is a different story.