StopMakingSense
Member
You're probably fine. I love the 75-150 though. And like i said, it is LIGHT, about 500g total. On my D800 like 60% of the time.
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NeoGAF Camera Equipment Thread | MK II
- Thread starter MRORANGE
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You're probably fine. I love the 75-150 though. And like i said, it is LIGHT, about 500g total. On my D800 like 60% of the time.
How so? The fastest MF lens I found on BH was f2, DoF of f1.2 on 645 and f1.56 on the 44*33mm sensor which all of the cheaper MF cameras use.
Shame cameras with a "full frame" 645 sensor cost more than an expensive car :/I am hoping I'll be able to just adopt old Pentax 645 lenses. I'd only need a couple lenses for a MF body anyway. Hold off replacing my car then maybe I could justify it.
Hopefully more MF cameras might push the prices down. I think most of it (especially lens prices) is caused by the low low volume.
Rentahamster
Rodent Whores
I think you're not taking into consideration the distance to subject to fill the same frame as the DSLR. It's closer with MF, which makes the DoF thinner.
The last rumor I read said the price of the Hasselblad X1D for the Fuji and a lens (presumably the cheapest one) so while cheap for MF it's still 9 grand
Personally I feel like MF is cool, but very much plagued by the law of diminishing returns considering the huge price premium. MF lenses in production are so slow you still get a shallower DoF on full frame.
I read mingthein's blog regularly and his files with the X1D is absolutely amazing. The amount of details from each shot is just mesmerizing. I don't think I can achieve anything close to that with my FF. I'm at a phase now where I don't care about DOF anymore and just want as much details as possible.
That's why I made an aperture conversion. Take aperture times crop factor and you get the EQ aperture. The lens was 100mm so the EQ focal lengths (60 and 80mm) weren't anything out of the ordinary, but it should say it was EQ to 60mm f1.2 if used with 645 sensor or 80mm f1.6 if used with 44x33 sensor. Leica S (007) uses a different sensor (45x30) and is digital only so it's probably not usable on 645.
Left is FF at 200mm f5.6, right is MFT at 100mm f2.8:
I hate that there isn't a term for a 645 sensor and cropped 645. They just call everything medium format.
Heh. I've actually looked at good FF samples thinking "I'll never need more resolution than this", but it is insane what some MF lens-camera combinations can achieve.
Astral/H3X
Member
That's why I made an aperture conversion. Take aperture times crop factor and you get the EQ aperture. The lens was 100mm so the EQ focal lengths (60 and 80mm) weren't anything out of the ordinary, but it should say it was EQ to 60mm f1.2 if used with 645 sensor or 80mm f1.6 if used with 44x33 sensor. Leica S (007) uses a different sensor (45x30) and is digital only so it's probably not usable on 645.
Left is FF at 200mm f5.6, right is MFT at 100mm f2.8:
I hate that there isn't a term for a 645 sensor and cropped 645. They just call everything medium format.
Heh. I've actually looked at good FF samples thinking "I'll never need more resolution than this", but it is insane what some MF lens-camera combinations can achieve.
All of this conversion is a big part of why I wish we would come up with more sensor agnostic terms to be used alongside the current terms. The current measurements are important when regarding lenses because ultimately, a lens doesn't care what sensor is behind it (outside of coverage). But instead of having to do all of these conversions and maths to find out what such and such is equivalent to on such and such sensor, it would be nice if there were measurements that were based on the sensor the lens was designed for.
So, instead of having to sit there and say "Well an aperture of 1.4 on APSC is equivalent to such and such on FF, so really you're looking at X amount of like and Y amount of bokeh", we could have "This APSC lens has a Light Factor of XX, which gives you the same as a Full Frame setup with that same Light Factor".
Rentahamster
Rodent Whores
I'm not sure what you mean. If you take the full frame picture at f2.8, then you're going to have less depth of field than the micro 4/3 camera. That's how larger sensors can enable thinner DoF.That's why I made an aperture conversion. Take aperture times crop factor and you get the EQ aperture. The lens was 100mm so the EQ focal lengths (60 and 80mm) weren't anything out of the ordinary, but it should say it was EQ to 60mm f1.2 if used with 645 sensor or 80mm f1.6 if used with 44x33 sensor. Leica S (007) uses a different sensor (45x30) and is digital only so it's probably not usable on 645.
Left is FF at 200mm f5.6, right is MFT at 100mm f2.8:
I hate that there isn't a term for a 645 sensor and cropped 645. They just call everything medium format.
Because medium format lenses across the board are much slower. The fastest one I could find was f2 while FF has f1.4 lenses ranging from 20 to 85mm and on Canon an f1.2 50 and 85mm. MF lenses faster than f2.8 are not very common. Phase One have none in production while Hasselblad has just one (100mm f2.2).
Astral/H3X
Member
He's demonstrating that the MFT needs to get "better" lenses to get the same photo. What MFT does in 2.8, FF can get done at 5.6, a much slower aperture. What the MFT gets at 800 ISO, the FF can go all the way to 3200. All to get the same photo.
Now that being said, FF needs a 200mm where MFT is at 100.
I was using it to extrapolate for MF.
In a hypothetical world where FF only had f5.6 lenses while MFT has f2.8 and faster you'd effectively get shallower DoF on MFT. That's kinda the case for MF where lenses faster than f2.8 are rare and expensive. They're (MF f2.8 lenses) probably really sharp, but you don't get as shallow DoF as with f1.4 lenses on FF.
Rentahamster
Rodent Whores
I'm pretty sure the f2 lenses on medium format will give a thinner depth of field than the f1.4 lenses, given the same field of view (i.e. filling the frame the same way).
Generally speaking though, in most practical usage scenarios, it's easier to get shallow depth of field effects with a larger sensor when keeping framing constant. Comparing usage scenarios with very specific gear isn't that helpful.
I thought we were discussing depth of field effects in relation to sensor size?
theepicoftyler
Member
The current system IS sensor agnostic. You just have to understand what that means for your sensor type. The reason the It's going to be that way for any other system you develop. I don't really think there is any ambiguity to the way we describe lenses now. There's just the learning curve of knowing what a crop sensor is vs a full frame sensor, and the different types of crop sensors.
There isn't going to be a way to write a focal length on a lens without explicitly defining what the focal length is for each sensor type that's different than what is currently used.
I think people get too caught up in what the numbers are when they should just be determining what the best tool for the job is, and once you understand the sensor sizes, that shouldn't be that difficult.
math, how does it work. I've used panoramic cameras the same width as 5x7 large format, to medium format digital. Trying to get full field of focus you end up at apertures of f22 to f32, whereas when i do the same type of landscape shots on 35mm camera im at f11 or so.
Practically speaking im not sure why anyone would want such shallow depth of field other than a few very specific one off situations. also 75mpx of creamy bokeh with 5mpx in focus!
Light gathering for indoor shots, completely understandable. But the super shallow DOF, kind of went through a fad where everyone wanted it, and then realized that its only useful in certain situations.
Practically speaking im not sure why anyone would want such shallow depth of field other than a few very specific one off situations. also 75mpx of creamy bokeh with 5mpx in focus!
Light gathering for indoor shots, completely understandable. But the super shallow DOF, kind of went through a fad where everyone wanted it, and then realized that its only useful in certain situations.
Cross posting from iOS 10 thread.
RAW capture is totally worth it if you want to recover highlights. Just did a quick sky shot with the 6S while exposing for backlit buildings. Shot RAW+JPEG with Manual. Even though both shots were blown out, the JPEG was much more so. The RAW was much more useable and recovered far more data. All I did in Lightroom is pushed the highlights slider to the left (in basic and tone curve). Very impressed.
RAW
JPEG
iMore corroborates: http://www.imore.com/how-raw-changes-iphone-photography-better
RAW capture is totally worth it if you want to recover highlights. Just did a quick sky shot with the 6S while exposing for backlit buildings. Shot RAW+JPEG with Manual. Even though both shots were blown out, the JPEG was much more so. The RAW was much more useable and recovered far more data. All I did in Lightroom is pushed the highlights slider to the left (in basic and tone curve). Very impressed.
RAW
JPEG
iMore corroborates: http://www.imore.com/how-raw-changes-iphone-photography-better
jongkookie
Member
Heh same here but I'm definitely in for the 7+ when I can upgrade this November.
I'm probably gonna get Apple's Upgrade plan too so I can swap to a 7S+ the following year lol.
But I'm excited for RAW and the DOF capabilities of the 7+ coz I hate carrying my D3200 + 28-90mm lens on vacation. My recent trip to Vegas solidified that idea more to me. Like I got great shots and all but they were all in the daytime since I didn't wanna lug my DSLR around to the Criss Angel show or the club lol. I just want to take pics in the moment and come back to them at another time to edit and make them look better.
JadedWriter
Member
When you're shooting a corporate event with a crop sensor camera you probably should not be using a prime ever especially when you only have one god damn camera. Missed a really important shot for work cause I was switching lenses. Wedding and portrait photographers wonder why I'm not about that bagful of primes life, well there that's the fucking reason.
Please do tell in more detail about the missed shot.
JadedWriter
Member
Two corporate big wigs shaking hands. My boss wanted the shot and I was changing lenses in preparation for the shot the crap was already happening. I can't really anticipate when a speech is going to end so I thought I had enough time before the speech ended, turns out I didn't.
That is on you, nothing to do with the prime lenses.
There's nothing wrong with shooting events like that with prime lenses. Your fatal flaw was not taking a lesson from wedding photographers and carrying two camera bodies. That's usually what I do in situations like that (budget permitting).
Canon put a fancy screen on the new 70-300, but man did they find a way to make the screen look cheap. That lens wouldn't seem out of place mounted on a 90s camera
Electronic display on lenses is so dumb. The benefits are minimum for consumers but great for lens makers because inevitably that screen will die or get damaged and it will 'cost too much' to be worth repairing forcing people to replace their lenses like consumer electronics. At least look like they might be the inexpensive LCD displays. The OLED on Zeiss lenses -- hurray for burn ins?
Astral/H3X
Member
Best part of upgrading to an A7II is that my a6000 works wonderfully as a second body.
Rentahamster
Rodent Whores
If you are doing an event with only one body and a bunch of primes, just leave it on there most of the time and make it work. Especially if there's time critical moments like that.
JadedWriter
Member
I bring what I can afford. So Nyuh. I only have one damn camera and I want my second body to actually be...good. I could afford a D90, but at these corporate events I deal with the ISO climbing I do wouldn't really yield any worthwhile pictures.
I did calm down a bit after the rage post and owned up to it myself, it's just fucking annoying when shit like that happens.
this. A lot of these people are used to it and understand it.
Love searching my attic, sweating my ass off, looking for my tripod head i know i kept only to find it in my bigger camera bag in my office. >.>
JadedWriter
Member
Oh God that's an option? I never really opted to do think of that. Just chalked it up as a blown moment, which completely fucked up my rhythm cause after that I just kept one lens on for the podium speeches, which aren't even great shots. I'd normally use my 70-200 for those, but kept my 18-35 on there...yeah I need a second body already...yeesh.
JadedWriter
Member
Lol this is true. Um is a D600 for less than $700 a good deal? I'm asking the seller about the shutter life now.
Yes!
I would definitely recommend getting a (refurbished) D600 (with a guarantee the shutter mechanism works) as a first FF camera, if such is your desire. I find it a better camera than the 6D or an A7. Buffer is a bit small, so is the AF point area, but it's a great FF camera even 4 years after release nonetheless. Sensor development is in a bit of a plateau so what you have in the D600 is great even today, leaves little to be desired, and Nikon can better take advantage of Sony sensors than Sony themselves can.
The other important part of the equation are the primes, the f1.8G series to be more precise. The 50mm is a steal. 85mm is great too. I hear the 35mm is fine too, but I opted myself for an used Sigma ART instead. But the point is, once the initial price of the camera body is overcome, cheap, awesome, native lenses can be had.
I shoot m43 and FF, BTW. The former meets most of my needs already, but the latter is frivolous but fun. The more toys the better.
JadedWriter
Member
Well I know the camera isn't refurbished, but it's doesn't look super used in the pictures, the seller just has no idea how to check shutter count so I had to go out of my way to send him a link on how to do it, hopefully I get a response at some point. Might just be somebody that got the camera but didn't really know what the heck to do with it so is selling it since he has no idea what it's actually really worth.
Hey guys I need some advice. I thinking about upgrading from my beginner grade camera (Sony A37) to a better one. I have a few A-mount lenses. I'm mostly an amateur photographer (portraits, landscapes) - once or twice a year I shoot a sports event or a wedding. Not professionally though, just for friends.
I'd like to stay with Sony and I'm debating between buying into the E-mount system with a A7II or staying with A-mount system and buying an A99? What would you pick? Or are there any other cameras in the Sony universe that are worthwhile?
I've been holding on to my A37 for a few years now and while I like photography and want to expand in that area, I don't want to buy a camera that will be obsolete in a few years.
My budget isn't set in stone but the whole package shouldn't cost more than 1800 euros if possible.
I'd like to stay with Sony and I'm debating between buying into the E-mount system with a A7II or staying with A-mount system and buying an A99? What would you pick? Or are there any other cameras in the Sony universe that are worthwhile?
I've been holding on to my A37 for a few years now and while I like photography and want to expand in that area, I don't want to buy a camera that will be obsolete in a few years.
My budget isn't set in stone but the whole package shouldn't cost more than 1800 euros if possible.
JadedWriter
Member
Do you have the budget for E mount lenses?
And got fucked out of the D600 cause the stupid seller didn't list the shutter count or even respond to my message telling him how he can find out the shutter count. Who the hell even buys a second hand camera without knowing the shutter count on it?
QualityPixel
Banned
D600 for $700 I probably would. The camera has had a recall for the shutter and when it comes back it will have a new shutter.
My 8 year 4 month old D300 has had 35,000 shutter clicks and is still going strong.
The original battery is still going strong also, which is amazing.
Easy to use site for anybody else interested: https://www.camerashuttercount.com/
JadedWriter
Member
Well shit, I probably should've just bought the damn thing then if I could just get a new shutter for free.
Astral/H3X
Member
Every camera will be "obsolete" in a few years. That doesn't mean itll suddenly be useless or won't take great pictures. I mean fuck weve still got people toting 40 or 50 year old cameras (though digital is a smidge different in that regard).
Sony does make an A mount to E mount adapter, but your lenses are likely all APSC and won't really work well with an a7.
Sony has put their tech, hopes, and dreams into the a7 series. Take that as you will.
A7 is a case of cheap body, expensive lenses. It's an easy initial investment, but can become expensive quickly if you buy a lot of first party lenses. If you're only going for one or two lenses that are first party, you'll likely end up on top. For maximum quality to price ratio, the A7 series pairs beautifully with any vintage film era lens, and has a lot of things that make manual focus easier.
I'd stop by a best buy to get your hands on an A7 to see if mirrorless is for you. A lot of people who start on DSLR end up not liking MILC and vice versa. Not everyone, but a lot.
If you plan on going with the a7 series, I'd definitely go with a "II" -- they have stabilization for ALL lenses, even if they are 40 years old.
I can't give a definitive answer, because there isn't one, but hopefully these questions help you out.
Ultimately, if you decide you want to stick with DSLR, just know Sony has left their DSLRs in the dust. They really don't do anything with them anymore.
Yeah, I would strongly go E-mount over A-mount. All rumors are suggesting Sony are planning to move away from A-mount.
Unless you really love some of your A-mount lenses I'd also recommend selling them and then replacing them with smaller E-mount versions. If you get the cheaper A to E-mount adapter you won't get good AF unless you have an A7r II or (maybe) A6300. The expensive adapter is kinda big and I think 350$.
JadedWriter
Member
Anybody here ever buy anything through an amazon third party seller using their A to Z service? I have something good lined up but it's from a newly launched merchant so I'm really cautious with the seller. I'm asking the person to take a picture of the camera but they keep not doing it.
gamechanger87
Member
So what Tripod is recommended for a Canon Rebel t5?This isn't for professional so just looking for something fairly cheap.
So far the A-Z guarantee has worked well, no question asked. Unlike eBay, their money back guarantee seems questionable from first hand experience. That said, I don't really trust buying from Amazon market unless the item is listed as Like New. Everything past that tend to be more questionable when most of the time people don't bother to post pic of the item.
JadedWriter
Member
Yeah the no picture thing is a legit problem. I'm emailing the guy and I'm like I'll buy the thing if you take a picture with your phone and just attach it to the email so I can see that you actually have the merchandise. Asked I think for the third time this morning.
JadedWriter
Member
Did some legit research. How the fuck does somebody sell a Nikon D750 for $500 in a legit manner?!!!
they dont?
Anyhoo, the wait, is excruciating. "on truck for delivery" simultaneously the most exciting and annoying status update.
JadedWriter
Member
Yeah, there are so many high end camera's, lenses too on that sellers Amazon page for $500 that it just set off the scam alarm in my head. $500 Nikon 2.8 70-200? Get the fuck outta here! You awaiting your D500 or something else?
QualityPixel
Banned
Click image for details.
Love the classic look.
JadedWriter
Member
Found a what looks to be prisitine D600 for 750, financed it. FX now brehs!!!! Having a spare body should make events coverage a lot easier. Update: Body is in good condition, but shutter count is over 80,000. Said he's had it for six months. First thing I'm doing is sending it to Nikon for a new shutter then. We sure I don't have to pay anything for D600 shutter replacements?
They might not if it is grey market. Make sure it was purchased in the US originally.
JadedWriter
Member
Well he was selling two camera's, one has a USA warranty card, the other didn't. They were roughly the same price so I don't think he'd be selling one grey market and one US, since he tends to sell a good amount camera stuff. He has no negative feedback cause I'm sure somebody would complain about grey market gear. I asked the seller and he confirmed it's the US version.
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