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NeoGAF Camera Equipment Thread | MK II

Probably doesn't even really know Fuji then? I mean generally price would be a larger factor for beginner. XT-1 is more enthusiast level and a lot of things don't really matter to a beginner.
I showed a couple to him and explained them to him the best I could. I think he was messing with one of the XE-2's the B&H had and started to like it a bit. You could take a good pic with all of them. I don't think he liked any of the fixed lens ones though. He's had a couple of cameras, I don't know how much use they got though. I think he has a D70 and an A5100 or something...I've never seen him with one of them on him and I'm usually seen with my stuff. I guess given his commitment to it I should push the cheaper option on him and not what I think is the better option. Said he wanted to get it to use for his vacation, which is why I'm pushing him towards Fuji. I honestly just think it's the better ecosystem.
 
I'm talking to a guy that isn't really even sure of what it is that he really wants and didn't know why a prime lens couldn't zoom.

I mean, does he want to learn? If not, he should probably just get a nice point and shoot like an RX100.
 
I mean, does he want to learn? If not, he should probably just get a nice point and shoot like an RX100.
He doesn't want a point and shoot though. I honestly just don't think he's ever tried to invest in anything cause I think he's always just bought the cheapest thing available to him. With me if you're going to stick to the kit lens, then at least get a good kit lens and I've never really heard glowing reviews about the ones Sony provides.
 
He doesn't want a point and shoot though. I honestly just don't think he's ever tried to invest in anything cause I think he's always just bought the cheapest thing available to him. With me if you're going to stick to the kit lens, then at least get a good kit lens and I've never really heard glowing reviews about the ones Sony provides.

Unless you understand the value of primes and lenses in general, I don't see why you would want an interchangeable lens camera in the first place.

For someone just wanting to take nicer pictures, I'd recommend the RX100 V, honestly. Around $1k, but it's a sick little camera. 28-100mm equivalent zoom lens with a really great aperture range. 24 FPS still shooting (wtf!) and 1/32000 shutter speed limit. Plus 4K video with no pixel binning and the ability to photo capture from the video. And, if you want, 40x slow motion (960fps) lower-res videos. All in a very pocketable body.

But yeah, the basic kit lenses from Sony definitely don't seem to get much praise.
 
Unless you understand the value of primes and lenses in general, I don't see why you would want an interchangeable lens camera in the first place.

For someone just wanting to take nicer pictures, I'd recommend the RX100 V, honestly. Around $1k, but it's a sick little camera. 28-100mm equivalent zoom lens with a really great aperture range. 24 FPS still shooting (wtf!) and 1/32000 shutter speed limit. Plus 4K video with no pixel binning and the ability to photo capture from the video. And, if you want, 40x slow motion (960fps) lower-res videos. All in a very pocketable body.

But yeah, the basic kit lenses from Sony definitely don't seem to get much praise.
Yeah the RX100 V is a great pocket camera. I honestly find myself to be camera picky, others aren't but at least I have a good clue what it is that I'm looking for usually. He's not really too sure. He likes the A6000, I never really did. I like the Sony sensors, but their body aesthetics aren't my thing for the most part. Fuji's I like, just need to learn how to change focus points on the XT1 though. But man I guess picking a camera out as a beginner is easier than doing it as an enthusiast/pro.
 
I have a few old (and in this case I mean early-twentieth-century old) film cameras, and have gotten pretty used to using light meter apps on my phone, which tend to do the job very well, but yeah, it's definitely not something I'd recommend to a beginner.

Yeah I had a light meter app on my iPhone 6+ and it didn't really seem that accurate when I selected the closest settings on my D3200. Though to be fair, it was a free app with ads left and right. I haven't tried using it on 7+ but I'd think it'll be better at least since the 7+ has a better camera.

Here's a YT video going through the issue and fixing it. The diode installation is for using 1.5V batteries and not necessary. I would take the bottom panel off to check if that's what's wrong. It looks very scary with all the gears, but to my knowledge it's very hard to break anything by removing that panel.
https://youtu.be/dFq9etVH2og

Dang I really need to learn soldering. A few weeks ago the wires got loose of my bass guitar and I paid Guitar Center $40 to resolder it for me... and now you're telling me I can fix the light meter for my Nikon F for $5 bucks?

Fuuuuuuu.

I need to find somebody who can solder lol. I was at a camera shop today to get my 50mm 1.4 fixed and he said he can convert my F's light meter to take modern batteries but it'll cost a pretty penny.

Yeah the RX100 V is a great pocket camera. I honestly find myself to be camera picky, others aren't but at least I have a good clue what it is that I'm looking for usually. He's not really too sure. He likes the A6000, I never really did. I like the Sony sensors, but their body aesthetics aren't my thing for the most part. Fuji's I like, just need to learn how to change focus points on the XT1 though. But man I guess picking a camera out as a beginner is easier than doing it as an enthusiast/pro.

I agree with RX100 V, I almost bought one instead of the A7 lolol.
 
He isn't even soldering the battery contact in that camera, just gluing it together. The solder is for a diode that makes it meter properly with 1.5V batteries.

I had a similar issue in a different camera and I think I used tape, but it wasn't perfect. That camera had a wire that had come loose under the battery compartment and not a cracked nylon screw.
Look up online for likely causes to your Nikon or just open the bottom panel and take a look. I think a loose wire should be pretty obvious.
 
He isn't even soldering the battery contact in that camera, just gluing it together. The solder is for a diode that makes it meter properly with 1.5V batteries.

I had a similar issue in a different camera and I think I used tape, but it wasn't perfect. That camera had a wire that had come loose under the battery compartment and not a cracked nylon screw.
Look up online for likely causes to your Nikon or just open the bottom panel and take a look. I think a loose wire should be pretty obvious.

My bad I wasn't clear on what I was talking about haha.

He actually has a separate video for a Nikon F with the FTn finder and on that one he soldered a new diode or whatever.

For my Nikon F specifically, it also takes mercury batteries and the modern replacements drain out the battery even when it isn't being used so at most they last for two rolls of film, assuming you shoot both rolls in a span of a week. Otherwise the voltage slowly drops and the light meter becomes inaccurate.

Heck even right now the batteries on my EL2 and N8008 are not in the camera as I don't wanna take the risk lol.
 
I showed a couple to him and explained them to him the best I could. I think he was messing with one of the XE-2's the B&H had and started to like it a bit. You could take a good pic with all of them. I don't think he liked any of the fixed lens ones though. He's had a couple of cameras, I don't know how much use they got though. I think he has a D70 and an A5100 or something...I've never seen him with one of them on him and I'm usually seen with my stuff. I guess given his commitment to it I should push the cheaper option on him and not what I think is the better option. Said he wanted to get it to use for his vacation, which is why I'm pushing him towards Fuji. I honestly just think it's the better ecosystem.

Ecosystem really doesn't matter too much for beginners. Most of people are going to buy a camera with kit lens and never grow out of that. Higher quality lenses have no value to a person unless he/she wants to learn and do more. A lot of people buy SLR and leave it in Auto mode and believe they will just take better pictures... If a person doesn't show the intention to learn then anything works these days. I find very little reason to push any brand other than getting the best bang for the bucks based on some preferences. That seems to work with a lot of students I have to deal with.
 
I was outbid for the camera, so good I guess. If anybody can link me to a camera for about $50 or less that works. I would greatly appreciate it

what my teacher recommended-

Good 35mm camera types for this class are:
Canon (AT1, AE1, Rebel, Elan)
Pentax K1000
Nikon (N70, N80, N2000, FM, Nikomat or Nikkormat)
Olympus OM1
Minolta (Maxxum or X-series)

This list is not comprehensive. If you find a camera for a good price, be sure it is an SLR and has a Manual Exposure Mode (which means that you can adjust aperture and shutter speeds independently).
 
I was outbid for the camera, so good I guess. If anybody can link me to a camera for about $50 or less that works. I would greatly appreciate it

what my teacher recommended-

Canon AE-1/AE-1 Programs are everywhere and are a fantastic camera. You'll find tons in great condition as well.

I bought one of Craigslist a couple years ago and the guy showed up with literally like 10 of them in a backpack. He buys, sells, and refurbishes them for people just like you.
 
I've never used a Nikon in that category. One thing I have to say though is I really do not like the AE-1's metering when in manual mode. The K1000s simple meter is much better for manual imo.
 
My bad I wasn't clear on what I was talking about haha.

He actually has a separate video for a Nikon F with the FTn finder and on that one he soldered a new diode or whatever.

For my Nikon F specifically, it also takes mercury batteries and the modern replacements drain out the battery even when it isn't being used so at most they last for two rolls of film, assuming you shoot both rolls in a span of a week. Otherwise the voltage slowly drops and the light meter becomes inaccurate.

Heck even right now the batteries on my EL2 and N8008 are not in the camera as I don't wanna take the risk lol.
Ah, I see. Beautiful camera BTW. I've wanted an F or F2, but they're rare and when I find them expensive. Best way to play with pre-AI lenses.

Yeah, you shouldn't worry about the batteries in the other cameras. Zinc air uses a reaction with air which is why they wear down so quickly when opened.

I've heard about the modification to make old cameras run on alkaline before, but made by a repair shop. Really cool to see how simple it is if you can solder (I can't either ;_;).

Edit: I kinda want an OM1 with a broken light meter now. OM lenses were beautiful and now they are not that expensive. OM2 for night photography with dat 120 second metered shutter speed.
 
Ecosystem really doesn't matter too much for beginners. Most of people are going to buy a camera with kit lens and never grow out of that. Higher quality lenses have no value to a person unless he/she wants to learn and do more. A lot of people buy SLR and leave it in Auto mode and believe they will just take better pictures... If a person doesn't show the intention to learn then anything works these days. I find very little reason to push any brand other than getting the best bang for the bucks based on some preferences. That seems to work with a lot of students I have to deal with.
I guess my mindset has been recently that if I could learn to get better then anybody can. Meanwhile it takes a lot of practice, self criticism and a lot of willingness to learn and youtube videos. Heck on my last shoot I really learned how important lighting is for portraits...I mean I knew, but it's what pushed me over the edge to go "yeah, I do need that second flash cause a secondary light source is really important."
 
The problem with the AE-1 is that they're kinda expensive.

Quick look through eBay right now and a majority of them are body only and are as-is(so untested and usually for parts and stuff).

The cheapest one I can find is $90 with a unknown 35-135mm lens.

Meanwhile here's a fully tested Nikon N5005 with a 35-70mm lens for $50 bucks.

Ah, I see. Beautiful camera BTW. I've wanted an F or F2, but they're rare and when I find them expensive. Best way to play with pre-AI lenses.

Yeah, you shouldn't worry about the batteries in the other cameras. Zinc air uses a reaction with air which is why they wear down so quickly when opened.

I've heard about the modification to make old cameras run on alkaline before, but made by a repair shop. Really cool to see how simple it is if you can solder (I can't either ;_;).

Edit: I kinda want an OM1 with a broken light meter now. OM lenses were beautiful and now they are not that expensive. OM2 for night photography with dat 120 second metered shutter speed.

Yeah I personally use my EL2 if I want to look cool with a camera on my neck and my N8008 if I actually want to get shit done lol.

And yeah I'm just being overtly cautious about the batteries. The N8008 takes around 6 AA batteries and the EL2 uses an A544 which while isn't rare, it's a little hard to find. I found one at my Fry's last year and that's it lol.

The F is indeed a beautiful camera and it's kinda why I don't mind it not being able to work. I've got it sitting on my desk as a display and it's just awesome to look at lol.
 
Well, divested myself of my whole Canon setup. 7D, 5D Mark III x2, 70-200mm 2.8 II, 24-70mm 2.8 II, various flashes, CF cards, damn the whole lot.

Moving onto Fuji as my work kit. Interesting times ahead for me.
 
Would this be something good ?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004WXFFRY/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Minolta 7000 with Minolta Maxxum AF Zoom 35-70mm 1:4 (22)

Professional 35MM Film Camera
Auto and Manual Settings available
Custom Iso / Aperture and Speed settings
SLR with Auto Focus Lens
Ideal for School and Professional Photography

For my class, the camera requirments are - f you find a camera for a good price, be sure it is an SLR and has a Manual Exposure Mode (which means that you can adjust aperture and shutter speeds independently).
 
Would this be something good ?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004WXFFRY/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Minolta 7000 with Minolta Maxxum AF Zoom 35-70mm 1:4 (22)

For my class, the camera requirments are - f you find a camera for a good price, be sure it is an SLR and has a Manual Exposure Mode (which means that you can adjust aperture and shutter speeds independently).

That one looks fairly good. Should be great for a student, you'll want to use ISO 400 film with it.

If you can spend $100 this Nikkormat should work well also (about as cheep as an old-old nikon film camera will get). I have the same camera and lens and I love it. Camera uses a sexy needle light meter. My camera

With 50mm lens (general purpose lens & portrait lens).
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nikon-Nikko...463390?hash=item4b0c36c5de:g:2JgAAOSwKOJYKOvL

With 24mm lens (wide angle and general purpose lens)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nikkormat-E...115551?hash=item5693475edf:g:sGsAAOSwnHZYeA1W

If you have any questions about the Nikkormat I can probably answer them, I spent a good bit of time getting familiar with the camera. How to load film, test the light meter, change battery, etc.
 
Would this be something good ?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004WXFFRY/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Minolta 7000 with Minolta Maxxum AF Zoom 35-70mm 1:4 (22)



For my class, the camera requirments are - f you find a camera for a good price, be sure it is an SLR and has a Manual Exposure Mode (which means that you can adjust aperture and shutter speeds independently).
Find one that is much cheaper like this one:
It's not a bad camera, but super common and not very desirable so you shouldn't pay $50 for one. KEH sells one that works (LCD bleed) for 6$, that's a used store with a return policy.

The camera does have manual exposure control. You hold down the "MODE" button on the left while scrolling with the top arrow keys until it says "M" on the display. Then you use the top arrow keys to adjust shutter speeds and the arrow keys by the lens mount to adjust aperture.
Manual here btw

It is an autofocus camera with a noisy autofocus and motor drive if that bothers you. You can see in the old ads how the noise was part of the appeal. Motor drive was a big deal :P
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U8mf26Tw9_4

That 35-70 f4 is a great lens to start with, super cheap. Main disadvantage is it's quite slow and won't be very usable indoors. I think you should be fine. You can try to find one cheap with a 50mm f1.7, but those lenses tend to go for more.
The camera will NOT accept Minolta MD/MC/SR lenses (sometimes called Rokkor), you need an AF/Alpha lens. Depending on how much you care about image quality there are some cheaper telezooms available too like the 100-200mm f4.5 and maybe 80-210mm f4 (big, but quite sharp). Primes tend to be a bit expensive for those cameras so zooms are where you find the bargains. If you find something give it a search and see what people are saying about it on Dyxum.
 
That one looks fairly good. Should be great for a student, you'll want to use ISO 400 film with it.

If you can spend $100 this Nikkormat should work well also (about as cheep as an old-old nikon film camera will get). I have the same camera and lens and I love it. Camera

With 24mm lens (wide angle and general purpose lens) uses a sexy needle light meter. My camera

With 50mm lens (general purpose lens & portrait lens).
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nikon-Nikko...463390?hash=item4b0c36c5de:g:2JgAAOSwKOJYKOvL
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nikkormat-E...115551?hash=item5693475edf:g:sGsAAOSwnHZYeA1W

If you have any questions about the Nikkormat I can probably answer them, I spent a good bit of time getting familiar with the camera. How to load film, test the light meter, change battery, etc.

Does this look good ?

https://www.keh.com/shop/nikon-nikkormat-ftn-chrome-non-ai-35mm-camera-body.html

Nikon Nikkormat FTN Chrome (Non AI) 35mm Camera Body
 
You must've missed those ones listed at less than $100.

Fuck, A-1. I thought you meant the F-1...

It was a prosumer camera? Those seem to be the best bets, still cheap, but not as sought after as the pro models while consumer models have poor to no manual controls.

There was a EX version going for $40 but guess somebody bought it
The downside with buying it on Keh is you need to buy the lens seperately which usually makes the total price higher. Unless you want a different lens ofc.
 
Fuck, A-1. I thought you meant the F-1...

It was a prosumer camera? Those seem to be the best bets, still cheap, but not as sought after as the pro models while consumer models have poor to no manual controls.


The downside with buying it on Keh is you need to buy the lens seperately which usually makes the total price higher. Unless you want a different lens ofc.

In particular, the A-1 is reasonably priced for it's features. I've gone through so many SLR's looking for the right pick up and go one and the A-1 is what I settled on. Cheap FDn lenses are a bonus as well. The only issue is the shutter squeak but a dab of machinists oil in the right spot fixes that up quickly. Otherwise it's a great all around SLR. No doubt going for a better regarded Nikon or Olympus is good, hell even the K1000 is a solid choice. I think the point for him, is to just get a cheap one with a solid 50mm 1.8 and go from there. I think the biggest issue is the abundance of solid and cheap options for a 35mm SLR.
 
In particular, the A-1 is reasonably priced for it's features. I've gone through so many SLR's looking for the right pick up and go one and the A-1 is what I settled on. Cheap FDn lenses are a bonus as well. The only issue is the shutter squeak but a dab of machinists oil in the right spot fixes that up quickly. Otherwise it's a great all around SLR. No doubt going for a better regarded Nikon or Olympus is good, hell even the K1000 is a solid choice. I think the point for him, is to just get a cheap one with a solid 50mm 1.8 and go from there. I think the biggest issue is the abundance of solid and cheap options for a 35mm SLR.
Yeah, there are so many. The main thing to look out for is manual exposure and a meter. Pretty much all of them are reliable. If they weren't they wouldn't be working now :P

Canon lenses are quite cheap too. I've been looking for a cheap FD body, but haven't found any near me.

The K1000 is not bad, but can have pretty bloated prices. It's a great student camera, but shouldn't cost $100 when it has no self timer, the lens cap is the on/off button (drains battery when lights hits meter), no multi exposure, bulky size and no auto exposure modes. It doesn't offer more than say a Minolta X700 other than being mechanical and working without batteries.
I'd be all over it if it cost like 30-50 with a lens, but you can almost get a Pentax MX for the price some copies are fetching.
 
Yeah, there are so many. The main thing to look out for is manual exposure and a meter. Pretty much all of them are reliable. If they weren't they wouldn't be working now :P

Canon lenses are quite cheap too. I've been looking for a cheap FD body, but haven't found any near me.

The K1000 is not bad, but can have pretty bloated prices. It's a great student camera, but shouldn't cost $100 when it has no self timer, the lens cap is the on/off button (drains battery when lights hits meter), no multi exposure, bulky size and no auto exposure modes. It doesn't offer more than say a Minolta X700 other than being mechanical and working without batteries.
I'd be all over it if it cost like 30-50 with a lens, but you can almost get a Pentax MX for the price some copies are fetching.

yeah the upshot of k1000's in price is pretty odd. I remember a few years ago I'd get them for the lens attached and just junk the bodies. oh well.
 
yeah the upshot of k1000's in price is pretty odd. I remember a few years ago I'd get them for the lens attached and just junk the bodies. oh well.

I think it's because everywhere you look they're being recommended as great starter cameras, but the people making those recommendations are used to the K1000 being the cheapest manual film camera out there.

Pentax lenses are also a bit more expensive than Minolta/Canon lenses. Probably because they can be mounted on modern Pentax cameras without much trouble, just press green button to meter.
 
I think it's because everywhere you look they're being recommended as great starter cameras, but the people making those recommendations are used to the K1000 being the cheapest manual film camera out there.

Pentax lenses are also a bit more expensive than Minolta/Canon lenses. Probably because they can be mounted on modern Pentax cameras without much trouble, just press green button to meter.

yeah definitely. probably doesn't help that they were the go-to institutional camera for learning and people looking for that nostalgic trip either.
 
Nikon N2000 F-301 SLR film camera

-looking at this, Would any Nikon lens work?

decided to get this camera, needed a camera by Wednesday and I was turning crazy just trying to find a good cheap one that actually works. Now I just need a lens for it. So if anybody can help one more time by linking me or recommending something that's on Amazon because I can use prime to get before Wednesday, thanks.
 
Nikon N2000 F-301 SLR film camera

-looking at this, Would any Nikon lens work?

decided to get this camera, needed a camera by Wednesday and I was turning crazy just trying to find a good cheap one that actually works. Now I just need a lens for it. So if anybody can help one more time by linking me or recommending something that's on Amazon because I can use prime to get before Wednesday, thanks.

Haha, I understand. It should work just fine. Looks like a neat starter camera.

To answer the bolded, pretty much just with a few exeptions.
Nikon has three main types of lenses:
-Pre-AI (the original type) made before 1977
-AI made after 1977
-G which are the modern lenses without an aperture ring

Pre-AI will not work, but they are not very common and any seller usually makes it clear in the description that they are not AI.
All AI/AI-S lenses will work, they have a cut-out around the lens mount which pre-AI lacks.
G lenses kinda work, the camera will think you've chosen automatic aperture and you will be unable to adjust it yourself.

All autofocus lenses work, but the focusing ring is not made for manual focusing and will have a fairly short throw.

----------------------------------
Lens wise I'd go for anything cheap and manual focus like:
Nikon Series E 50mm f1.8

Nikon 35-70mm f3.5-4.8

I just used Keh just to have something to link to. You can probably find them cheaper on ebay and pretty much can't go wrong with a working 50mm f1.8.
 
Picked up a nice Olympus XA today with the A16 Flash. The camera works great but the flash was corroded so it may be shot. Hopefully not. Needs new seals but that's easy enough to fix. Love these little things. Already have an XA2 but the aperture choice is nice on the XA. $20 at a flea market.
 
went with this one - Nikon 35-70mm f3.5-4.8

got ground shipping, at least I'll have a camera by Wednesday

thanks for the help
np np

Must be a bitch with that time constraint, but I'd be happy with that setup. Way cheaper than buying new too. The camera looks easy to use too with automatic film transport and dials. I didn't know of the camera body and kinda want one now for a cheap Nikon body :P
Picked up a nice Olympus XA today with the A16 Flash. The camera works great but the flash was corroded so it may be shot. Hopefully not. Needs new seals but that's easy enough to fix. Love these little things. Already have an XA2 but the aperture choice is nice on the XA. $20 at a flea market.
Nice. I've been looking for cheap point and shoots, but can find full auto only, maybe AF, often fixed focus and like f/so_low_we're_not_gonna_bother_writing_it.

My main film camera is a Minolta 700si with a battery grip because I don't wanna buy 2CR5 batteries and I kinda want something smaller and more discreet sometimes...
 
I got a Nikon D5100, but I'm looking to upgrade to a Nikon full frame, specially brcause I'm a bit frustrated with the D5100 performance in low light. Any recomendation on what should I should be looking?
 
np np

Must be a bitch with that time constraint, but I'd be happy with that setup. Way cheaper than buying new too. The camera looks easy to use too with automatic film transport and dials. I didn't know of the camera body and kinda want one now for a cheap Nikon body :P

Nice. I've been looking for cheap point and shoots, but can find full auto only, maybe AF, often fixed focus and like f/so_low_we're_not_gonna_bother_writing_it.

My main film camera is a Minolta 700si with a battery grip because I don't wanna buy 2CR5 batteries and I kinda want something smaller and more discreet sometimes...

there's so many great options for little point and shoot like systems. gems abound so it really is just a waiting game.
 
I got a Nikon D5100, but I'm looking to upgrade to a Nikon full frame, specially brcause I'm a bit frustrated with the D5100 performance in low light. Any recomendation on what should I should be looking?
What lenses do you have? Are they all DX? You could look at the D750.
 
What lenses do you have? Are they all DX? You could look at the D750.

I got the standard kit lens, which I never use, and the Nikkor 50mm 1.8G, which I always use. I also have a Nikkor 50mm 1.4 FX lens, that I bought by mistake (lol). Would using that one help?
What about the D850? Is it worrh over the D750?
 
I got a Nikon D5100, but I'm looking to upgrade to a Nikon full frame, specially brcause I'm a bit frustrated with the D5100 performance in low light. Any recomendation on what should I should be looking?

The D610 and better are all great in low light, you just need to determine what you are willing to spend on the camera (and full frame lenses if you need them).
 
I got a Nikon D5100, but I'm looking to upgrade to a Nikon full frame, specially brcause I'm a bit frustrated with the D5100 performance in low light. Any recomendation on what should I should be looking?
The 610 is perfectly usable though the 750 has better iso performance and a much better AF system.
I got the standard kit lens, which I never use, and the Nikkor 50mm 1.8G, which I always use. I also have a Nikkor 50mm 1.4 FX lens, that I bought by mistake (lol). Would using that one help?
What about the D850? Is it worrh over the D750?
The 850 don't even exist yet and you don't need an 810 unless you care about the better build quality, take a lot of portraits like I do and want something quieter and print stuff out. What is the standard kit lens? The 18-55 which is useless on a full frame. Depending on what you need look into a 24-120 F4 lens or the 24-85, which are pretty good starter FX kit lenses. I'd say go get a 2.8 24-70, but those are damn expensive. What exactly do you need the camera for?
 
Hi!

I need help getting someone a new lens for their Sony a6000. The camera came with a 16-50mm lens. If there are any questions I need to answer let me know.
 
NoRéN;228457119 said:
Hi!

I need help getting someone a new lens for their Sony a6000. The camera came with a 16-50mm lens. If there are any questions I need to answer let me know.
Well what are they looking for? Portrait? Telephoto? Wide angle?

Budget?
 
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