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NeoGAF Camera Equipment Thread | MK II

Am I doing photography wrong if I haven't noticed, complained or given a shit about focus breathing?
Focus breathing is more of a thing for videography, it changes your focal lengh somewhat, so for the perfect framing you move a bit forward or back. Not that framing or composition are not affected by many more important factors involving one's own abilities.

The only problem I could have with focus breathing is it stealing telephoto reach when doing portraits with extreme background blur. Luckily enough, I never do that. ☺
 
Focus breathing is more of a thing for videography, it changes your focal lengh somewhat, so for the perfect framing you move a bit forward or back. Not that framing or composition are not affected by many more important factors involving one's own abilities.

The only problem I could have with focus breathing is it stealing telephoto reach when doing portraits with extreme background blur. Luckily enough, I never do that. ☺
Yeah it's that thing the youtubing photography sites bitch about yet it's something that has never really tripped me up that fucking harshly. Usually if I'm close enough to the point where my lens isn't focusing I'll just back up a step.
yes.

It is, i think, one of the greatest issues we face, of our time.
I'm assuming this is sarcasm.
 
Yeah it's that thing the youtubing photography sites bitch about yet it's something that has never really tripped me up that fucking harshly. Usually if I'm close enough to the point where my lens isn't focusing I'll just back up a step.

I'm assuming this is sarcasm.

I don't think I've ever heard anyone really take points away from a lens for breathing, but keep in mind most Youtube photographers probably also have some background in videography, so they probably know it enough to notice and mention it.

I mean, certainly, people don't complain about macro lenses breathing.
 
I don't think I've ever heard anyone really take points away from a lens for breathing, but keep in mind most Youtube photographers probably also have some background in videography, so they probably know it enough to notice and mention it.

I mean, certainly, people don't complain about macro lenses breathing.
You must not deal with Tony Northrup too much.
 
He's very much a videographer as well, so I can see that bothering him.

But of the videos I've seen, I haven't seen him say that makes it bad for stills.
It mainly depends on what the video and lens type is. I've heard him complain about the Nikon 70-200 VRII endlessly regarding that...any 70-200 actually, except the Canon version. Meanwhile they all focus breathe to some extent and his application with this seems to be too close to the minimum focus distance. He even refused to acknowledge the most recent Tamron 70-200 G2 cause it focus breathes to a certain extent. I'm like "dude it's a lens, stop complaining. Figure out how to adapt around it or use a prime." My complaints with my current 70-200 isn't focus breathing, it's focus inaccuracy. I'll shame a lens for that, but that's it.
 
Focus breathing is something only videographers know and care about. Kind of like chromatic aberration. Nobody actually watching the videos gives a shit. Hell, in the case of CA, you'd be hard pressed to find it absent in any of Stanley Kubricks masterpieces but does anyone ever call them out for it? No and they shouldn't. Lens imperfections account for probably .001% of a films perceived quality to approx 99.999% of the audience.
 
you're first impression was correct. And i thought the "yuge" would be a dead giveaway.


as others have stated only video people really care about focus breathing.
 
you're first impression was correct. And i thought the "yuge" would be a dead giveaway.


as others have stated only video people really care about focus breathing.
Makes sense. Like I get why it could be an annoyance, but it's never really bothered me too heavily, granted I want nothing to do with video work just due to how much setup work it entails.
 
So, I've been looking into the Sigma MC-11, and it sounds like it basically fixes everything wrong with the Sony Ecosystem: Lens prices.

There isn't a super huge amount of info and impressions on it atm, but everything I've seen, it's as good as native. PDAF in all modes, EXIF data, everything. Which is good, because Sigma lenses are the ones I kept wishing they'd make Sony versions of ahaha.

EDIT: Seems like the reason for this success, is that the MC-11 doesn't "adapt" a lens' communications, per se, but rather replaces it outright (as in, instead of the lens using it's own firmware, and using the adapter as a sort of medium to interpret, the lens actually loads the firmware from the adapter, which is native), which is why it works best for their newer lenses, and specifically Sigma's, as they are designed with that in mind.
 
So, I've been looking into the Sigma MC-11, and it sounds like it basically fixes everything wrong with the Sony Ecosystem: Lens prices.

There isn't a super huge amount of info and impressions on it atm, but everything I've seen, it's as good as native. PDAF in all modes, EXIF data, everything. Which is good, because Sigma lenses are the ones I kept wishing they'd make Sony versions of ahaha.
I don't think they wanted to add another mount to their list so they made the adapter. Canon mount for the used market, Sigma mount if you want new, cause there's no market for preowned Sigma mount lenses. I'm tempted to get either the 50 or 35 Art lenses.
 
Yeah, my biggest interest would be their 150-600, since my GF wants to try some birding (and let's face it a 600mm would be awesome anyway), and a 24-70 for less "give a fuck" times. Outside of that, my Samyang primes do great.

Also my GF isn't as into photography on the very technical bits of manually controlling shit, so having an AF and auto aperture lens would do her wonders.
 
Yeah, my biggest interest would be their 150-600, since my GF wants to try some birding (and let's face it a 600mm would be awesome anyway), and a 24-70 for less "give a fuck" times. Outside of that, my Samyang primes do great.
Birding is such a specialized clusterfuck of a money sink...really depends on where you live also. With me it makes no sense cause nothing of any interest is in my area. Don't worry birders I'm not knocking it. Also doesn't help that nothing mirrorless has the lens ecosystem for it.
 
Birding is such a specialized clusterfuck of a money sink...really depends on where you live also. With me it makes no sense cause nothing of any interest is in my area. Don't worry birders I'm not knocking it. Also doesn't help that nothing mirrorless has the lens ecosystem for it.

I feel like a big reason that there's no really long focal length lenses for mirrorless atm is because PDAF is so relatively recent at this point, and focusing at those longer FL's can be tricky. But since the MC11 works with PDAF, hey, there we go.
 
Mostly in extreme situations like if you need a really long focal length or are using macro lenses. Here's an extreme example with teleconverters:
ACzrXW0.jpg

A lens not quite being its advertised focal length is quite common. They like to market them with simple, recognizable focal lengths instead of selling a 49mm f1.45 or 25-68mm f2.9.

I feel like a big reason that there's no really long focal length lenses for mirrorless atm is because PDAF is so relatively recent at this point, and focusing at those longer FL's can be tricky. But since the MC11 works with PDAF, hey, there we go.
Do their PDAFs work well with long, high aperture lenses?
 
Mostly in extreme situations like if you need a really long focal length or are using macro lenses. Here's an extreme example with teleconverters:


A lens not quite being its advertised focal length is quite common. They like to market them with simple, recognizable focal lengths instead of selling a 49mm f1.45 or 25-68mm f2.9.


Do their PDAFs work well with long, high aperture lenses?

There's not too much info atm, but I can't think of any reason why they wouldn't -- it's hybrid AF on the Sony bodies, so it can actually use the contrast detect advantages to check for sharpness to boot (IIRC, phase detect is much quicker, but CD is a smidge more accurate in good light).

I probably won't commit to it until I hear how well it works with the 150-600 though. But, it seems like it's much, much better than the very flakey Metabones adapters.

EDIT: I'm seeing some people musing that the MC-11 even works with PDAF on the a6000. HRM.
 
I feel like a big reason that there's no really long focal length lenses for mirrorless atm is because PDAF is so relatively recent at this point, and focusing at those longer FL's can be tricky. But since the MC11 works with PDAF, hey, there we go.
I honestly just think it's because none of those mirrorless companies make the glass for it. Sony ain't going to crank out a 500mm F4 and they aren't going to ask Zeiss to make one. The stuff is expensive and they don't have the clientele that would buy them.
 
So, did some research on the MC-11, and what I can find so far is that it works great with Sigma lenses, can't even tell they aren't native. Like, the Stabilization switch on the lens will toggle it on the camera and everything. On some tests specifically with the 150-600, looks like everything except AF-C works great, and Sigma has stated they will actually be improving those algorithms further here later on.

When using non-Sigma lenses, it essentially works like the Metabones -- good but not great.
 
There's not too much info atm, but I can't think of any reason why they wouldn't -- it's hybrid AF on the Sony bodies, so it can actually use the contrast detect advantages to check for sharpness to boot (IIRC, phase detect is much quicker, but CD is a smidge more accurate in good light).

I probably won't commit to it until I hear how well it works with the 150-600 though. But, it seems like it's much, much better than the very flakey Metabones adapters.

EDIT: I'm seeing some people musing that the MC-11 even works with PDAF on the a6000. HRM.

you might want to also check out Nikons new zoom 200-500 f5.6. Tom Hogan had some nice things to say about it.
 
you might want to also check out Nikons new zoom 200-500 f5.6. Tom Hogan had some nice things to say about it.
Yeah I heard that's an excellent telephoto zoom. Most likely need a monopod or something for that. I don't think it'll work on a Sony body though. I can never find adapters that keep the autofocus and aperture changes for Nikon lenses that aren't D lineage.
So, did some research on the MC-11, and what I can find so far is that it works great with Sigma lenses, can't even tell they aren't native. Like, the Stabilization switch on the lens will toggle it on the camera and everything. On some tests specifically with the 150-600, looks like everything except AF-C works great, and Sigma has stated they will actually be improving those algorithms further here later on.

When using non-Sigma lenses, it essentially works like the Metabones -- good but not great.
Why would Sigma want you to buy a non Sigma lens?
 
you might want to also check out Nikons new zoom 200-500 f5.6. Tom Hogan had some nice things to say about it.
I mean, I'm a Sony shooter, soooooooo

Yeah I heard that's an excellent telephoto zoom. Most likely need a monopod or something for that. I don't think it'll work on a Sony body though. I can never find adapters that keep the autofocus and aperture changes for Nikon lenses that aren't D lineage.

Why would Sigma want you to buy a non Sigma lens?

Well, to be fair, they meet or exceed Metabones performance on non Sigma, so it's less that they are gimping those, and more that they can't be assed to rewrite the firmware on Canon lenses.
 
So, did some research on the MC-11, and what I can find so far is that it works great with Sigma lenses, can't even tell they aren't native. Like, the Stabilization switch on the lens will toggle it on the camera and everything. On some tests specifically with the 150-600, looks like everything except AF-C works great, and Sigma has stated they will actually be improving those algorithms further here later on.

When using non-Sigma lenses, it essentially works like the Metabones -- good but not great.

Lens rental not an option? It sounds like your use case might be too specific to get any meaningful data out of whatever information might be out there on the internet.
 
Nikon D500 is the best birding camera though. I mean either way you're cropping, but at least you get that crop without adding a teleconverter or just straight cropping the image...more.

I mean, I don't really have money to invest in a new camera and new lenses. My GF isn't really looking to be a pro bird photographer or anything, it's more that the 150-600 would have some overlap on areas I want to cover, and it's be great for her too. But, it's more musing than anything, since its not like I have that money just chilling out haha.
Lens rental not an option? It sounds like your use case might be too specific to get any meaningful data out of whatever information might be out there on the internet.
I'll probably rent the combo at some point more towards the summer if I have some cash when the gf is available to shoot some birds.
 
I mean, I don't really have money to invest in a new camera and new lenses. My GF isn't really looking to be a pro bird photographer or anything, it's more that the 150-600 would have some overlap on areas I want to cover, and it's be great for her too. But, it's more musing than anything, since its not like I have that money just chilling out haha.
Believe me I know what you mean. I want a Fuji XT2, but I'm like, "Do I need the fucking thing? Do I really want to buy another set of fucking lenses?" That's what immediately stops me from buying anything not a Nikon. I like 2.8 glass and that shit is expensive regardless of mount.
 
Just shot some stuff with my new tripod w/ballhead. Jesus. I feel like I've leveled up.


Also used it for some light painting with my flashlight. You use an exposure that goes into the tens of seconds or minutes and use a flashlight to light up a near dark scene. You pass over the subject or areas you want to expose. Now this a fun technique ..


You can see where I ran my flashlight clearly in this. The more you pass the light over a spot in the scene the stronger the exposure. Its like using the dodging and burning tool at the time of exposure. More practice is needed to blend the exposure better.

Here's another example...


Side lit the branches to give them dimension. It looks like I used a directed flash unit when in reality I used a small hand held LED flashlight and painted the tree with the light, running the light up and down as evenly as possible. This was about a 10s? Exposure.

When you move into much longer exposure you should be able to light your scene or subjects from any angle you want creating some trippy, staged effects. All with a single flashlight.
 
So looks likes my A7II hit the bucket. Now, even in normal room temps the shutter starts to get locked and I have to turn the cam on and off. Can take another bunch of fotos, rinse repeat. Don't think it's the 3rd party batteries at this point. Of course the thing broke down two months after the warranty period expired.

Had a look at canon and nikons offerings and I can't go back to these cameras. Im so used to the EFV, IBIS, eye AF and that formfactor. Only thing that's ticking some of my boxes is the Pentax K1 but that's an even more obscure camera maker then Sony IMHO.

Question is, take the repair costs? From what I gathered online changing the shutter can lead to a "economic not feasible repear".

Sell all the lenses and switch systems (Nikon has to put out a 810 successor this year)? Reading lots of Nikon/Canon Forums it seems Nikon will hit the bucket in a decade and canon stoped innovating and everyone and their mother recommend the Fuji x2.

And on some reviews the A7rII wins against the 5DmkIV, but right now I'm not really in the mindset of giving Sony money again since their cam broke down and I cared for it immensely, was never abused in any way.

Now GAS has set it. What to do Gaf?

Will contact Sony as soon as I'm back home to see what the repair would cost but .... I want some gear that can take even a light beating :(
 
So looks likes my A7II hit the bucket. Now, even in normal room temps the shutter starts to get locked and I have to turn the cam on and off. Can take another bunch of fotos, rinse repeat. Don't think it's the 3rd party batteries at this point. Of course the thing broke down two months after the warranty period expired.

Had a look at canon and nikons offerings and I can't go back to these cameras. Im so used to the EFV, IBIS, eye AF and that formfactor. Only thing that's ticking some of my boxes is the Pentax K1 but that's an even more obscure camera maker then Sony IMHO.

Question is, take the repair costs? From what I gathered online changing the shutter can lead to a "economic not feasible repear".

Sell all the lenses and switch systems (Nikon has to put out a 810 successor this year)? Reading lots of Nikon/Canon Forums it seems Nikon will hit the bucket in a decade and canon stoped innovating and everyone and their mother recommend the Fuji x2.

And on some reviews the A7rII wins against the 5DmkIV, but right now I'm not really in the mindset of giving Sony money again since their cam broke down and I cared for it immensely, was never abused in any way.

Now GAS has set it. What to do Gaf?

Will contact Sony as soon as I'm back home to see what the repair would cost but .... I want some gear that can take even a light beating :(
Believe it or not all the stuff you say you need...you don't need.
 
So looks likes my A7II hit the bucket. Now, even in normal room temps the shutter starts to get locked and I have to turn the cam on and off. Can take another bunch of fotos, rinse repeat. Don't think it's the 3rd party batteries at this point. Of course the thing broke down two months after the warranty period expired.

Had a look at canon and nikons offerings and I can't go back to these cameras. Im so used to the EFV, IBIS, eye AF and that formfactor. Only thing that's ticking some of my boxes is the Pentax K1 but that's an even more obscure camera maker then Sony IMHO.

Question is, take the repair costs? From what I gathered online changing the shutter can lead to a "economic not feasible repear".

Sell all the lenses and switch systems (Nikon has to put out a 810 successor this year)? Reading lots of Nikon/Canon Forums it seems Nikon will hit the bucket in a decade and canon stoped innovating and everyone and their mother recommend the Fuji x2.

And on some reviews the A7rII wins against the 5DmkIV, but right now I'm not really in the mindset of giving Sony money again since their cam broke down and I cared for it immensely, was never abused in any way.

Now GAS has set it. What to do Gaf?

Will contact Sony as soon as I'm back home to see what the repair would cost but .... I want some gear that can take even a light beating :(
Did you buy it on credit card? Some CCs will extend the manufacturer warranty on products you buy (subject to a few conditions).
 
Just shot some stuff with my new tripod w/ballhead. Jesus. I feel like I've leveled up.



Also used it for some light painting with my flashlight. You use an exposure that goes into the tens of seconds or minutes and use a flashlight to light up a near dark scene. You pass over the subject or areas you want to expose. Now this a fun technique ..



You can see where I ran my flashlight clearly in this. The more you pass the light over a spot in the scene the stronger the exposure. Its like using the dodging and burning tool at the time of exposure. More practice is needed to blend the exposure better.

Here's another example...



Side lit the branches to give them dimension. It looks like I used a directed flash unit when in reality I used a small hand held LED flashlight and painted the tree with the light, running the light up and down as evenly as possible. This was about a 10s? Exposure.

When you move into much longer exposure you should be able to light your scene or subjects from any angle you want creating some trippy, staged effects. All with a single flashlight.
...what were you using before?

Didnt you use to do all kinds of heavy stitching?
 
Believe it or not all the stuff you say you need...you don't need.

Eye AF is essential for me to get nice portrait pics of my baby boy. This sounds dadbod as hell, I know but man the little worm won't stay still for a second. Face rec. and eye af have been really useful to me, with the evf I can see where the focus is (the eyes get a green circle around them) and I can see which face is being focused on (square around the face) plus a digital horizon overlay. Everything imo super helpful for focusing and composing. It's a techy look through the evf and I'm a tech geek. I know that I don't need all that stuff to make good fotos but I want to enjoy my hobby - Somehow with the Canon/ Nikon FF bodies I feel like there is nothing new to play around with.

Oh and seeing the picture In the viewfinder that you are actually going to take is nice as hell, been using some people's DSLRs on the beach to take pics of them and it was feeling wrong somehow. :/

But I could get used to it I guess.


Did you buy it on credit card? Some CCs will extend the manufacturer warranty on products you buy (subject to a few conditions).

I did but that's not going to happen with my stripped to the bones CC (from the days I was a student). But I'll have a look at it. Thanks for the suggestion.
 
I'm asking this here because it feels more appropriate than the photography thread.

I've been tasked with creating a simple beginner's guide type class for my coworkers on Lightroom and I just wanted to ask what type of things would you lot consider must know for complete beginners?

Anything and everything is welcome, just looking for ideas. Thanks in advance!
 
I'm asking this here because it feels more appropriate than the photography thread.

I've been tasked with creating a simple beginner's guide type class for my coworkers on Lightroom and I just wanted to ask what type of things would you lot consider must know for complete beginners?

Anything and everything is welcome, just looking for ideas. Thanks in advance!

A basic workflow.

1. How to import photos in a structure that has them organized and keyworded from the start.

2. How to use the basics of the develop panel.

3. How to use presets and keyboard shortcuts to save time.

4. How to export.
 
Eye AF is essential for me to get nice portrait pics of my baby boy. This sounds dadbod as hell, I know but man the little worm won't stay still for a second. Face rec. and eye af have been really useful to me, with the evf I can see where the focus is (the eyes get a green circle around them) and I can see which face is being focused on (square around the face) plus a digital horizon overlay. Everything imo super helpful for focusing and composing. It's a techy look through the evf and I'm a tech geek. I know that I don't need all that stuff to make good fotos but I want to enjoy my hobby - Somehow with the Canon/ Nikon FF bodies I feel like there is nothing new to play around with.

Oh and seeing the picture In the viewfinder that you are actually going to take is nice as hell, been using some people's DSLRs on the beach to take pics of them and it was feeling wrong somehow. :/

But I could get used to it I guess.
I went from an EVF to an OVF and got used to it. I just trained myself to look at the light meter in the viewfinder. My exposure is still usually pretty dang accurate. I like the tech in Sony bodies but I don't think it's that integral to the whole process. Though I do want IBIS but I might go Panasonic or Olympus for that...or nothing since shit is expensive. An 810 isn't much of a downgrade if at all and whatever they release for the replacement will be damn expensive. Nikon uses Sony sensors any way.
 
...what were you using before?

Didnt you use to do all kinds of heavy stitching?

I was using a pretty cheap 3-way head for the stitching. Always had a love hate relationship with it. So outside of that I was purely hand held shooting. The Sirui ballhead I'm using now feels way more natural to get those odd angles straight.
 
I went from an EVF to an OVF and got used to it. I just trained myself to look at the light meter in the viewfinder. My exposure is still usually pretty dang accurate. I like the tech in Sony bodies but I don't think it's that integral to the whole process. Though I do want IBIS but I might go Panasonic or Olympus for that...or nothing since shit is expensive. An 810 isn't much of a downgrade if at all and whatever they release for the replacement will be damn expensive. Nikon uses Sony sensors any way.

It's super integral to me at this point after I've spent months with my A7R II.

I spent a few hours taking photos with my old Canon DSLR a couple of weeks ago and that really illustrated how much I depended on the EVF and features in the Sony body. Most of my shots just didn't turn out how I had envisioned them. The focus was totally off in a lot of a cases.

Obviously this is something that gets better as you get used to any particular camera, but the beauty of EVFs is that you can instantly know what you're going to get.
 
It's super integral to me at this point after I've spent months with my A7R II.

I spent a few hours taking photos with my old Canon DSLR a couple of weeks ago and that really illustrated how much I depended on the EVF and features in the Sony body. Most of my shots just didn't turn out how I had envisioned them. The focus was totally off in a lot of a cases.

Obviously this is something that gets better as you get used to any particular camera, but the beauty of EVFs is that you can instantly know what you're going to get.
Yeah I see and completely understand the draw of them. I don't exactly miss it though. I'm just used to OVF's at this point. I think it makes transitioning from camera to camera a non issue for me as long as I can operate the basic controls. If a camera has an EVF than it's an added bonus, if not, it doesn't really bother me. How long has it been since you stopped using the Canon? With your Sony pretty much giving up the ghost you might have to go back to using...something if you can't get the Sony replaced.
 
EVFs are almost mandatory for manual focus users, especially if they're equipped with aperture rings. Its probably a pretty niche set of users but its the reason I could never go back to an OVF. The possible percieved focus disconnect due to bad shimming of the focus screen and the focus you see in the OVF was a problem I had with my former DSLR.
 
EVFs are almost mandatory for manual focus users, especially if they're equipped with aperture rings. Its probably a pretty niche set of users but its the reason I could never go back to an OVF. The possible percieved focus disconnect due to bad shimming of the focus screen and the focus you see in the OVF was a problem I had with my former DSLR.
Now this I completely understand though. Might actually make my Sigma 18-35 actually fucking accurate...same with the 17-50 if I put it on a Fuji and manual focus with an EVF.
 
Now this I completely understand though. Might actually make my Sigma 18-35 actually fucking accurate...same with the 17-50 if I put it on a Fuji and manual focus with an EVF.
This is why I hope Tamron and Sigma start to really focus on mirror less. The focus issues with third party glass on DSLRs shouldn't be an issue with mirror less and cdaf.
 
A basic workflow.

1. How to import photos in a structure that has them organized and keyworded from the start.

2. How to use the basics of the develop panel.

3. How to use presets and keyboard shortcuts to save time.

4. How to export.

Thanks! Seems like a good basic. I was thinking of skipping presets though as there is a small chance most of these people will use LR ever again.
 
This is why I hope Tamron and Sigma start to really focus on mirror less. The focus issues with third party glass on DSLRs shouldn't be an issue with mirror less and cdaf.
God I hope Tamron is better cause I was doing portraits on Friday with my Sigma 70-200 and the opposite eye of the one I was focusing on got focused on. Was the weirdest shit.
 
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