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PC Racing Sims Thread

Sorry for the ramble, wheel's got me all excited~ as for lap times, I'm generally 3-4 seconds slower than I was with a controller, I put that mostly down to braking/corner speeds. I'm also WAY less consistent atm.

No, thank you for your thoughts. I found it really interesting and well summarized and written.

About the steering rack:
You'd think the steering lock (how far can you turn the steering wheel) and the steering ratio (how many degrees on the steering translate to how many degrees of turn-in of the front tires) define the responsiveness, but on a real car the rack-pinion ratio is not all.
The geometry of the suspension, angle and length of the trailing arms makes the steering non-linear.
ackerman.gif

The ratio changes and it even changes differently for inner and outer wheel, to get this right you actually need to simulate the suspension geometry and not just fiddle with a "ratio to the power of x"-constant. Assetto Corsa does exactly this(even if not perfectly for some all suspension types) and all other good sims have at least some idea to address this (Forza and GT for example don't).
Changing the steering lock and ratio is possible for some race car, so you are right that AC could use an option for some of the race cars (production cars should feel like they do: with a steering not made for racing in my opinion), but mostly the manufacturers have a good idea for when a steering feels good and gives the driver the necessary feedback and the steering geometry is designed with input from experienced engineers and drivers so an ideal individually value shouldn't be too far off of what is in the game already.
The only time I play around with the ratio is usually when I try myself at drifting (which I completely suck at) or in DiRT Rally - for some reason the steering linearity is really bad in cars with 900° of rotation in that game.


About the brake pedal:
It's hard for manufacturers of lower end pedals to know what their customers want. Do they just set up their wheel on their work desk chair or do they want it as realistically hard to press down as the real thing. For comparison, a brake pedal in a real life race car needs you to apply about 80-120kgf depending on the car to get to the maximum brake pressure. I know, not helpful for you, just wanted to excuse Logitech a little, they tried to give you more progressive feel with low cost solutions. I'm sure many people like it, for others it's making their life harder.
 

Mascot

Member
Was racing at the rather excellent Donington track mod in AC last night in the open-topped Miata Cups. I know that East Midlands Airport backs on to the circuit so it's nice having the occasional passenger jet taking off in the background, but I wasn't expecting to get buzzed by two fighter jets on the final lap..! I laughed my ass off and nearly crashed. Brilliant touch.
 

kiyomi

Member
Lots of thoughts there, interesting to read.

Not sure why you picked the G920? The G29 is the same but with more buttons, so you got the better option (unless you needed Xbox support)!

The physicality is why I suggested running the main FFB setting low to start with, as it just generally gets in the way when you're learning inputs. 'Rack speed' adjustment should not be necessary in any modern sim (it used to be a major problem, particularly confusing in isiMotor-based games - Automobilista has addressed it but it's still a bit of an odd solution). The calibration wizards in sims like iRacing and AC should detect your 900 degree rotation correctly and give you the appropriate lock/ratio for each car you drive. The rack speed should, in theory, be correct for every car (in-game wheel should align 1:1), and adjusting it to be more 'responsive' is unrealistic and usually a bad idea (even though it might feel better initially).

The way the RaceRoom gives you a strong sense of 'weight' is probably what is causing the motor to heat up the most. It has, in my opinion, the strangest-feeling FFB of the current circuit-based sims (although it has improved dramatically), but I guess it aligns the closest with what you expected FFB to feel like. Your opinion might change after you drive other sims for longer (but it might not, who knows!).

Regarding brakes, I was thinking about suggesting you remove the rubber in my previous post, but it was already long and it felt like a bad idea to tell you to pull your pedals apart as soon as you got them! But if you're pushing yourself back in your chair with heavy braking, definitely take it out. I've done it myself, not difficult to take apart (just try not to dislodge the cables from their runners too much and make sure they go back in place before screwing stuff back down - they're easy to pinch). The alternative is to short-calibrate as you say, but you're probably better off with the full throw of the pedal.

Same goes for the throttle - you can put a dead zone at the bottom to make it feel less sensitive, but you're just losing useful throw if you do that. I think you just have to get used to it (or put an additional spring in the throttle pedal when you take them apart to increase the resistance a bit).

Ahh the reason I picked the G920 was simply, it was cheaper! I'm quite happy I got the G29 though. :)

I'm getting used to the physicality now so it's all fine, although sometimes I think I need to be more aggressive with my turn-ins. I'm trying to be as smooth as possible but sometimes I feel like I should push a little harder on turn in and my muscle memory isn't quite there yet.

Unfortunately I don't have the right allen key to undo the pedals to take the block out but I'm getting used to how it feels so far. I will probably take it out at some point and give it a try. I've read I could take out the clutch pedal's spring and place it in the throttle so I might do that, since I'm not getting any use out of the clutch pedal so far.

No, thank you for your thoughts. I found it really interesting and well summarized and written.

About the steering rack:
You'd think the steering lock (how far can you turn the steering wheel) and the steering ratio (how many degrees on the steering translate to how many degrees of turn-in of the front tires) define the responsiveness, but on a real car the rack-pinion ratio is not all.
The geometry of the suspension, angle and length of the trailing arms makes the steering non-linear.

The ratio changes and it even changes differently for inner and outer wheel, to get this right you actually need to simulate the suspension geometry and not just fiddle with a "ratio to the power of x"-constant. Assetto Corsa does exactly this(even if not perfectly for some all suspension types) and all other good sims have at least some idea to address this (Forza and GT for example don't).
Changing the steering lock and ratio is possible for some race car, so you are right that AC could use an option for some of the race cars (production cars should feel like they do: with a steering not made for racing in my opinion), but mostly the manufacturers have a good idea for when a steering feels good and gives the driver the necessary feedback and the steering geometry is designed with input from experienced engineers and drivers so an ideal individually value shouldn't be too far off of what is in the game already.
The only time I play around with the ratio is usually when I try myself at drifting (which I completely suck at) or in DiRT Rally - for some reason the steering linearity is really bad in cars with 900° of rotation in that game.


About the brake pedal:
It's hard for manufacturers of lower end pedals to know what their customers want. Do they just set up their wheel on their work desk chair or do they want it as realistically hard to press down as the real thing. For comparison, a brake pedal in a real life race car needs you to apply about 80-120kgf depending on the car to get to the maximum brake pressure. I know, not helpful for you, just wanted to excuse Logitech a little, they tried to give you more progressive feel with low cost solutions. I'm sure many people like it, for others it's making their life harder.

Appreciate the responses on rack speed - it was just an adjustment I had to make and it doesn't really bother me now. My car control is woeful though, I can usually just about catch the first slide but often not the second if it happens. :(

I really like the idea of having the rubber block in the brake pedal to give it a progressive feel but my initial take is that it just feels too.. abrupt? The pedal just feels like it goes: firm, firm, firmer, SUPER STIFF. It doesn't give me a comfortable feeling at all. I might look at some of the spring mods and stuff for a different feel.

--

Thanks for all the advice guys, I just finished my first iRace:

http://members.iracing.com/membersite/member/EventResult.do?&subsessionid=20362871&custid=288837

Qualified and Finished 2nd. I think I could've won if I'd pushed a little more, but I was very cautious not to make any mistakes or go off track to improve my SR.
 
I really like the idea of having the rubber block in the brake pedal to give it a progressive feel but my initial take is that it just feels too.. abrupt? The pedal just feels like it goes: firm, firm, firmer, SUPER STIFF. It doesn't give me a comfortable feeling at all. I might look at some of the spring mods and stuff for a different feel.

--

Thanks for all the advice guys, I just finished my first iRace:

http://members.iracing.com/membersite/member/EventResult.do?&subsessionid=20362871&custid=288837

Qualified and Finished 2nd. I think I could've won if I'd pushed a little more, but I was very cautious not to make any mistakes or go off track to improve my SR.
The abrupt resistance of the rubber is an attempt to offer a feeling closer to that of a load cell pedal (and indeed a real car brake pedal), which often have characteristics very similar to what you describe. The difference however, is that a load cell offers most of its 'resolution' at that point of stiff resistance, as it effectively measures pressure rather than travel. The G29 pedal is still just measuring pedal travel (via a potentiometer) at that point of resistance, which can be unintuitive if it doesn't align with a vehicle's braking characteristics. You can improve this by changing the linearity (in iRacing it's called 'Force Factor'). The default value is set for potentiometer pedals - a load cell user would typically reduce this or put it to zero. So in the case of the G29 pedals you may also benefit from reducing this value for some cars, or even increasing it in some cases).

First race zero incs and a podium? That's a rare feat, congrats!

Btw you can contact iRacing admin to remove the number after your name (by adding a middle initial for example).
 

Mascot

Member
I've been looking at (well, listening to) some of the Fonsecker sound mods for Assetto Corsa. Obviously the 458 GT2 one is a crime against audio but some of the others are pretty good. The 2017 911 RSR file is a huge improvement over the default Kunos sounds, which led to me starting to use this car a lot more, which led to me falling in love with it. 30-car races at Le Mans in this thing are bloody epic, especially after downloading a whole field's worth of new skins for some added eye candy.
 

kiyomi

Member
I changed my brake settings in iRacing to behave differently and I immediately went way quicker but I seem to be way less consistent.

Like I did a 1.00.2 at @ Okayama Short but during a couple of races, I was struggling to do low 1.02s, and it fucked my race.

Talking of which -- my second race was bad, and my third a complete disaster. I get why people say it's better just to stay at the back and not actually race anyone until you start to move up SR. I had people divebomb me and push me off onto the grass, and someone spun right in front of me and there was no way I could avoid it, so I get punished for it, I guess?

Very very frustrating all round. If my consistency was better I wouldn't have to worry about those idiots.

EDIT:

Just done some more testing by myself. I can do a 59.6 in the Morning, but can barely hit 1.01 in the Afternoon. The car feels like it has way more front end in the morning session, and there's a ton of understeer in the afternoon. Why is that? I thought maybe because it was cooler I was getting more HP but the car just feels more grippy. Are the tyres just at a better temperature in the morning or something? All my races have been in the Afternoon I think.
 

Arucardo

Member
Been a while since I've posted in here (I still lurk all the time ;) ), but that's what convinced me to get pedals with a load cell brake, consistency.

I was told it's much easier to judge pedal pressure than it is travel and I find it to be 100% true. I went from my G25 pedals to CSR Elite's and it had a huge impact on my braking consistency. I've yet to use any high end hydraulic pedals but I'm sure that's even better.
 
EDIT:

Just done some more testing by myself. I can do a 59.6 in the Morning, but can barely hit 1.01 in the Afternoon. The car feels like it has way more front end in the morning session, and there's a ton of understeer in the afternoon. Why is that? I thought maybe because it was cooler I was getting more HP but the car just feels more grippy. Are the tyres just at a better temperature in the morning or something? All my races have been in the Afternoon I think.

Weather has a dramatic influence on lap times. There's nothing to be understood from comparing lap times from two different sessions. You can have fixed weather/track conditions in a test session (if you choose to), time trial, and time attack.

https://youtu.be/dInRJW84N8Y
 
I changed my brake settings in iRacing to behave differently and I immediately went way quicker but I seem to be way less consistent.

Like I did a 1.00.2 at @ Okayama Short but during a couple of races, I was struggling to do low 1.02s, and it fucked my race.

Talking of which -- my second race was bad, and my third a complete disaster. I get why people say it's better just to stay at the back and not actually race anyone until you start to move up SR. I had people divebomb me and push me off onto the grass, and someone spun right in front of me and there was no way I could avoid it, so I get punished for it, I guess?

Very very frustrating all round. If my consistency was better I wouldn't have to worry about those idiots.

EDIT:

Just done some more testing by myself. I can do a 59.6 in the Morning, but can barely hit 1.01 in the Afternoon. The car feels like it has way more front end in the morning session, and there's a ton of understeer in the afternoon. Why is that? I thought maybe because it was cooler I was getting more HP but the car just feels more grippy. Are the tyres just at a better temperature in the morning or something? All my races have been in the Afternoon I think.
Okayama Short is a tough place to create a pass, so very tempting to divebomb. Most incidents are avoidable, but some are just unlucky. You'll learn to anticipate earlier and make the right decisions more consistently with more seat time. Occasionally, there will be a mad situation that ruins your race, but it all evens out in the end. One point to note is that the lower series have 'fast repair' enabled, so if you can nurse your car back to the pits, you can instantly repair and go back out without being multiple laps down. It's usually quicker to get back to the pits by driving rather than taking a tow, but if your car is too bent it can be too dangerous to attempt. It's usually worth getting that fast repair and finishing the race rather than quitting, as others will inevitably fall off and you'll regain places.

Colder temps have an unreasonably large impact on grip, resulting in much faster times. I think the Global Mazda series uses fixed weather, so you should be able to set up a test session where you can practice with the same 'grip level'. Okayama is particularly 'bad' for weather variation, as it has a very smooth surface that feels very greasy in hotter conditions, so it can be very off-putting if you've used different weather for practice.
 

kiyomi

Member
Thanks, it's good to know I wasn't just going crazy. Now that I actually know that for sure I can probably get more consistent in hotter conditions. And thanks for the tip on changing my name btw - it was gonna send me nuts, haha.

Talking of awareness with regards to the racers around me - is iRacing too "sim" to have positional indicators like in Assetto Corsa? I'm not a huge fan of the spotter but again, if that's my only option, I guess I'll have to get used to it.

I also changed the FOV of my rear mirror to something a bit lower since the default gives me that fisheye effect and makes it hard for me to tell how close/far someone actually is.
 
Thanks, it's good to know I wasn't just going crazy. Now that I actually know that for sure I can probably get more consistent in hotter conditions. And thanks for the tip on changing my name btw - it was gonna send me nuts, haha.

Talking of awareness with regards to the racers around me - is iRacing too "sim" to have positional indicators like in Assetto Corsa? I'm not a huge fan of the spotter but again, if that's my only option, I guess I'll have to get used to it.

I also changed the FOV of my rear mirror to something a bit lower since the default gives me that fisheye effect and makes it hard for me to tell how close/far someone actually is.
I could be wrong but I'm not aware of indicators or a 'helicorsa' equivalent for iRacing. You can try a different spotter pack, the popular one is JJ from http://www.dwarehouse.com/

The 'cuss pack' pretty great, although you'll find the occasional oval racing-oriented phrase that doesn't make a whole lot of sense on road. It's not really any more effective than the standard pack but I find the delivery makes it feel a bit more natural.
 

Mascot

Member
So is anyone else here planning on taking advantage of this Rift sale before it ends? I have to say sim racing in VR simply blows me away. I find it fucking incredible. It's a completely different experience to racing on a 2D screen.
 
I had no idea the official competitions on RaceRoom were so fun. Having a blast trying to get to Div1 on the DTM Zandvoort round.

Races, time trials, everything is very well put together and it´s much better than a bunch of sims that are into e-sports.

Shame i only found about this now. Everyone who loves competition should try this out. The DTM cars are also a joy to drive, they are like GT3 but with adequate power and downforce.
 

TJP

Member
I had no idea the official competitions on RaceRoom were so fun. Having a blast trying to get to Div1 on the DTM Zandvoort round.

Races, time trials, everything is very well put together and it´s much better than a bunch of sims that are into e-sports.

Shame i only found about this now. Everyone who loves competition should try this out. The DTM cars are also a joy to drive, they are like GT3 but with adequate power and downforce.
Wait until the online ranking system kicks in :)
 

Dave_6

Member
Finally got to the B oval rank in iRacing late last night. Had one very intense 50 lap race at Indianapolis in the DW12. Can't stress how awesome it is to drive those at those speeds in VR!

Now to get my road race license up...
 
So is anyone else here planning on taking advantage of this Rift sale before it ends? I have to say sim racing in VR simply blows me away. I find it fucking incredible. It's a completely different experience to racing on a 2D screen.

It's definitely tempting, but I'm holding off until the resolution increases in the headsets.
 
Are the fastest lap times in the McLaren competition for real?
Did anyone of you have a go at it? What was your time and what do you think how fast you could go?
Under 2 minutes at Silverstone in a GT3 car seems pretty insane.
 

kiyomi

Member
Are the fastest lap times in the McLaren competition for real?
Did anyone of you have a go at it? What was your time and what do you think how fast you could go?
Under 2 minutes at Silverstone in a GT3 car seems pretty insane.

Is this in rFactor 2? Do you need to buy DLC for it or anything?
 

TJP

Member
Under 2 minutes at Silverstone in a GT3 car seems pretty insane.
There was a reset of times as the very top times had taken liberties with track boundaries. A 1.58 should be close to the fastest.

The crappy PRC blog had a great post* about the similarities between the car modelling of AC's McLaren and the rF2 one which touched on the super fast times compared to real world times which lead onto pCARS 2 fellation about matching real world times. One needs to remember who pays PRC irrespective of how great pCARS 2 may be.

Dev's can adjust or fudge all manner of variables to get close or equal real world times from track grip level to minute tweaks to acceleration and braking. Given the McLaren is new to rF2 and the Silverstone track was made by ISI, Id suggest some tweaking to either needed to be done before the competition.


* By great post I mean inane and puerile.
 

spuckthew

Member
If you want to compete via rFactor 2 qualifying, yes, you need to buy the McLaren 650S DLC. But you can qualify with other games, even mobile phone games.

iRacing was mentioned as well, but I haven't looked too far into this as I'm definitely not fast enough.

Man I didn't even realise this was a thing. I've missed the first round unfortunately as I'm on holiday, but I'm definitely gonna try it going forward as I haven't played rF2 for ages.
 

TJP

Member
Build 1.4.5.3 Release Notes:
Slightly toned down AI aggression on all levels, & reduced AI risk calculation bypassing for overtaking on 1st lap when running MEDIUM AI Aggression setting (HIGH & MAX remain with full bypass)
Adjusted series-specific AI corner radius detection (used to decide whether to try switch lines to overtake) to more conservative values
Added information for connected devices & other minor adjustments to controller UI
Updated Montreal, Campo Grande, Brasilia, Caruaru, Buenos Aires, Guapore, Speedland, Granja, Cordoba, Spielberg & Salvador textures to latest standards
Fixed Stock Car 2017 & Curvelo IDs for VX leaderboards
Small update to billboard shaders, smoke & dust effects
Minor tire wear adjustments to Boxer, SuperV8, StockV8
Goiania: Fixed CTD loading short layouts
Interlagos: Fixed nightlighting on new road sections in 2017 variants
F-Ultimate: Added HALO as a configuration optional
StockV8: Added Lapenna´s car & fixed error causing Valerio´s car not to load; Added missing driver talent files; Added 2017 championship option with correct season order & scoring; Fixed glare in night lighting; Fixed LOD flaw in rear fender
Montana: Small adjustment on engine torque curve
 

kiyomi

Member
https://members.iracing.com/membersite/SubscriptionSelection.do?promotion_code=PR-MCLARENWFG

Promotion item
Your Price: $49.00

A discounted 1 year subscription for new members only to include the McLaren MP-430, Suzuka, Interlagos, COTA, and Monza for $49

I find this stuff really gross and offputting. Surely the loyal customers to your service are the ones you should really be offering some discounts to? I get that they want to entice new people, but I've been signed up less than a month and I'm already off put by the idea. Okay, as a new player I got some money off my subscription, but I didn't get any cars, tracks, whatever, not even a discount. And now people get this shit. :\
 
That is a particularly good one, but these things come and go all the time. For instance, the code PR-GRIPTV has been active since January, giving new members 3 months sub for $12 and the Ford GT/GT3 for free.

For members, there are permanent discounts on buying content in bulk on iRacing, and they offer cheaper subs around Black Friday. Occasionally there are other offers too. You also get participation credits...
 

kiyomi

Member
Ehh. I'm inclined to disagree that things come and go. You could say that about anything, any sim, any piece of hardware, whatever.

The bulk discount stuff is akin to buying the biggest number of exp boosts in a mobile clicker or something. Best Value! etc. The participation credit cap is $40 per year, which gets you 3 items, even with the 10% bulk discount you get from 3-5 items. So, yeah, if you play without actually buying DLC, you might be able to get a decent amount of cars over the course of oh, a decade, at which point you've probably spent $800+ on subscriptions.

I'd have less of a problem with the gouging if it wasn't for the fact you were paying for a subscription on top. It's not even like the subscription helps pay for hosting sessions since you also need to pay for that, apparently. And most of the SR stuff is automated and a blanketed system, so it's not like they're outwardly using that money towards better moderation and reviews. I do understand that they probably have a super passionate team that wants to make really good content and from what I've experienced so far, most of it is well made, but for me personally I don't think they adequately justify both the subscription and the DLC models as one package.

It's a bummer because iRacing was the thing I was most excited about getting into when I got my wheel but now I've looked at it more pragmatically, it just doesn't make any financial sense when there are other good (maybe better?) sims out there that cost absolute fractions of the cost. Assetto Corsa DLC packs are an insane value compared to what iRacing gets you for example.

So now from what I can tell, iRacing's popularity largely hinges on the idea that the barrier to entry is high, not because it's a sim about realism, but because the financial investment practically ensures you have to take it seriously. In turn it gets a reputation as being the place to go for serious racing, which means they can charge whatever the fuck they want for it.

Should also add they do some pretty heinous stuff like splitting the Nurburgring and Nordschleife into two different packages, which is gross as shit. I wouldn't blame anyone for playing iRacing but I can never recommend it to people because of how it's priced. I suppose if you're happy just driving an MX-5 at Lime Rock for the rest of your life you'll be good.

I guess if there's one way that iRacing truly is realistic, it's in that motorsport is expensive.
 
For me, iRacing's value is found in its online racing system, simple as that. I've tried competitive racing on every sim, and iRacing is by far the most consistent in terms of netcode, server reliability, matchmaking and organisation. The 'quality of racing' in general is higher because the technology is less likely to get in the way. It is possible to get 99% of the iRacing experience elsewhere, but it requires more effort (finding the best organised leagues with the most reliable servers), and can't possibly be as consistent or as frequently accessible in the long term. And if you don't want to wait for that next great league event in another sim, you have to dive into the unreliable world of public server quick racing. This high risk factor can be very entertaining in its own right, but most of the time I just want a good chance of a decent race, and iRacing's approach offers the highest chance of that.

If you don't think this aspect of iRacing is worth the cost of everything combined, then that's fair enough, but it's a pretty meaningless exercise to compare the prices of content with other sims because they're not even trying to be competitive. It's a completely different business model where the value is positioned in a different place. Unfortunately, nobody else seems to be willing to offer a rival service.
 
That summarizes my thoughts as well. It's the only sim out there that offers what it does. I wouldn't complain about a massive price cut across the board, at all (assuming no impact on the service), but so long as they're the only game in town doing what they do...

We'll see how things go when R3E adds their license system and scheduled races.


And I mean it's been almost 10 years since iRacing launched and there have been absolutely no (official) attempts made to compete with iRacing's system that I can recall. I assume there's a reason for that (cost).
 

Dave_6

Member
Yep, iRacing is the only sim that I race online with. Everything else is just a hot lapping sim for me (even as much as I love AC).
 

Makikou

Member
Talking about AC, is Kunos ever going to do anything about their wacky-ass car body physics? Getting tired of my car exploding from hitting kerbs and it really saps a lot of fun from AC (even though I still think there's a severe lack of information from FFB).

Escort RS1600 still manages to be one bloody fun car.
 

Mascot

Member
Talking about AC, is Kunos ever going to do anything about their wacky-ass car body physics? Getting tired of my car exploding from hitting kerbs and it really saps a lot of fun from AC (even though I still think there's a severe lack of information from FFB).

I don't think I've ever experienced this. What exactly do you mean?
Disclaimer: I mainly stick to the GT classes in AC.
 

Patrick S.

Banned
Talking about AC, is Kunos ever going to do anything about their wacky-ass car body physics? Getting tired of my car exploding from hitting kerbs and it really saps a lot of fun from AC (even though I still think there's a severe lack of information from FFB).

Escort RS1600 still manages to be one bloody fun car.

You sure you're not talking ProjectCARS here?
 
Talking about AC, is Kunos ever going to do anything about their wacky-ass car body physics? Getting tired of my car exploding from hitting kerbs and it really saps a lot of fun from AC (even though I still think there's a severe lack of information from FFB).

Escort RS1600 still manages to be one bloody fun car.
Like Mascot and Patrick I think the kerbs are very believable in AC, the flat green strips behind the kerbs are way too slippery though in AC.
About AC's FFB feel I agree with Makikou, it feels overdampened. On the lowest level, all the informations are there, good tire model, road bumpiness, suspension geometry, steering parameters, but then they put filters on it to make it feel good with Logitech gear driven wheels. Usually I drive AC with my TX and the FFB makes production cars feel very natural, but for getting the feel of a very low and stiff race suspension, driven with minimum power steering and a small carbon fibre steering wheel, the forces don't hit direct enough. And when driving AC with my T500, it feels a lot better with damping turned off via the Thrustmaster control panel, meaning that the game makes use of that hardware build-in damping effects, which the perfect FFB shouldn't touch in my opinion.
 
A long shot I know, but does anyone here own a dual-purpose sim-rig that doubles as a gaming-station, with sturdy keyboard and mouse support. Most sim rigs have flimsy keyboard trays sadly.

I'm considering selling my desk, office chair, wheelstand and sim-chair, to replace them all with one single sim-rig-desk-combo. The Obutto seems to be the best of the bunch, however it has one fatal flaw: THE COMPANY DON'T FUCKING ANSWER MY EMAILS OR TAKE MY ORDER.

So, if anyone here has a setup that doubles as a sturdy game-station and sim-rig, I would love to know what brand/model you're using.
 

Dave_6

Member
Sorry for the unnecessarily long post:

A few of you may remember me asking a few pages ago about adding a dedicated racing rig to my 'PC' room, while keeping my desk for regular gaming. I had kept an old desk in there with another PC for bill paying, printing etc but that PC died a few days ago so now I'm closer to making that decision. Here's a pic of the room: (yes it's quite a mess)

Ultimately, the desk on the right will be gone and the rig would go there. Being that the room has carpet, my PC will stay on the desk to the left. Since I bought a Rift a few weeks ago, I still need space to use it with non sim racing games and to space out 2 or 3 of the sensors. It's a lot to figure out as I would need a monitor on the rig to browse the menus of sims that don't use VR in menus (like AC) and the logistics of using quite long USB extensions for all the racing hardware and the VR sensors.

Also, how would VR work if I have two seperate monitors (the one on the desk and the one on the rig)? How would it switch to the rig monitor when I'm using it?

As far as which rig I want, that's a whole 'nother issue. Lol.
 
How would it switch to the rig monitor when I'm using it?
Quick answer: [Windows]+[P] and Windows also can remember which sound output to use for which monitor.

Edit: I don't have VR, but I could imagine a headset needs quite a bit of USB-power and if I remember this correctly, the maximum recommended length for full-power USB is 2 meters. With some bad luck, you might need a powered USB extender.
 

kiyomi

Member
And I mean it's been almost 10 years since iRacing launched and there have been absolutely no (official) attempts made to compete with iRacing's system that I can recall. I assume there's a reason for that (cost).

I don't really see what about the system costs a lot, particularly I'm speaking about safety rating. Like.. it's an automated system. All it does is register when you go off track or spin, or touch another car, where it doesn't attempt to apportion blame, but instead blames both drivers, and tallies up your score. That's literally all it does?

As I said before I don't blame anyone for being into it because they have a monopoly on that style of formalised racing and it's popular enough for people to feel like they can get into a race quickly without the need for a league setup which is great if you can afford a good number of tracks and cars. It doesn't make their pricing any less garbage though, and just smacks of taking advantage of people.

Should point out that while I'm really against their pricing model, their ability to provide racing is still attractive and I will still consider playing it in the future, but it'll be a long, slow process.
 

Dave_6

Member
Quick answer: [Windows]+[P] and Windows also can remember which sound output to use for which monitor.

Edit: I don't have VR, but I could imagine a headset needs quite a bit of USB-power and if I remember this correctly, the maximum recommended length for full-power USB is 2 meters. With some bad luck, you might need a powered USB extender.

I keep forgetting about the headset having HDMI and USB so I may have to sit the PC by the rig and find something to sit it on to keep it off the carpet. Maybe find a powered hub to mount under the desk to plug the KBM into, then run a long USB from it to the PC. It's going to take some planning for sure, if it's even worth doing.

I've been ultimately trying to 'unclutter' my desk and I hate having to constantly unhook the wheel and shifter all the time.
 

Mascot

Member
A long shot I know, but does anyone here own a dual-purpose sim-rig that doubles as a gaming-station, with sturdy keyboard and mouse support. Most sim rigs have flimsy keyboard trays sadly.

I'm considering selling my desk, office chair, wheelstand and sim-chair, to replace them all with one single sim-rig-desk-combo. The Obutto seems to be the best of the bunch, however it has one fatal flaw: THE COMPANY DON'T FUCKING ANSWER MY EMAILS OR TAKE MY ORDER.

So, if anyone here has a setup that doubles as a sturdy game-station and sim-rig, I would love to know what brand/model you're using.
I do all my gaming from my sim rig, with a little Ikea table at the side for kbm. I use a joypad instead of kbm whenever possible though.
 
I keep forgetting about the headset having HDMI and USB so I may have to sit the PC by the rig and find something to sit it on to keep it off the carpet. Maybe find a powered hub to mount under the desk to plug the KBM into, then run a long USB from it to the PC. It's going to take some planning for sure, if it's even worth doing.

I've been ultimately trying to 'unclutter' my desk and I hate having to constantly unhook the wheel and shifter all the time.

The room my stuff is in looks roughly the same width as yours.

PC with sim rig. USB hub on desk connected to an extension for KB/M. I also have a separate extension dedicated the for Rift sensor, but I think I could have just plugged it into the hub. The Rift HDMI cable is plenty long enough to go from PC to back of my head sitting at the desk. I think it's like 12ft. When I run it that way, I just run the cable loose under the sim monitors, around the seat etc.

 

Branson

Member
On the iRacing talk, I wish they would have an offline mode with great AI as well. I was a huge fan of their NASCAR Racing games through the years and I want those current physics but not necessarily the need of always having to race against real people.
 

Dave_6

Member
Thanks for posting that pic! That really, really helps give me an idea on the layout now.

Which rig is that, or did you build it?
 
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