A lot worse.
Super "NeoGAF Arcade Stick Thread" II TURBO
- Thread starter MarkMan
- Start date
A lot worse.
The Phantomnaut
Neo Member
Well I guess you would need to get Toodles' MC Cthulhu at the least. In case you want to play on other consoles through the MC Cthulhu, you need a cable that hooks up to an RJ45 port and then an RJ45 to SNES cable. I am sure there are other ways but I am not familiar with the alternatives nor the how to.
sixteen-bit
Member
How much was it after shipping if you don't mind me asking?
Thanks to the Hayabusa stick I can do this.
That's a pretty nice stage mod.
$5 for shipping, so $34.99 out the door (tax for CA only).
As an aside, bastards still want a verification for a different shipping address for me...even though I just verified for a Fighting Edge. Ridiculous.
$35
Haha yep, took a pic of my driver's license in front of my confirmation email.
I don't have that option as my normal address has no normal postal delivery and both my PO Boxes have no billing proof since I don't get anything there other than gaming packages. Just had to suck it up and had it sent it to my So Cal address. Real pain. Only bought it really for the branded box/collection and don't really intend to use it but I'd like ro have it here now!
Can anyine here help me? I'm having trouble installing my crown joystick into my madcatz se. How do I remove the balltop?. I need to do that in order to install it. the bat top doesnt unscrew. I think i need to remove this black thing at the very end of the shaft but i'm not sure and I also dont want to break it. =( .
put a flathead screwdriver into the butt, that'll keep the shaft from spinning while you unscrew the balltop.
On the back of the lever (inside the case) there should be a flathead slot in the lever shaft. Put a flathead screwdriver in there, grab the ball top, and unscrew.
yea my joystick doesnt have that slit on the end of the shaft .its solid flat.
pic
hibachifinal
Member
crown bat tops (korean bat tops in general) don't unscrew
if you wanna use a balltop/different bat top, you have to source a compatible shaft.
last i checked paradise arcade had custom crown shafts usable with japanese balltops.
if you wanna use a balltop/different bat top, you have to source a compatible shaft.
last i checked paradise arcade had custom crown shafts usable with japanese balltops.
i just want to install it. i'm not trying to change the top lol
hibachifinal
Member
oh, lol, undo the E-clip with a small flat head. the shaft should undo then., jsut dont lose whatever parts comes loose (the actuator)
Okay then, see that retaining clip? Pop that off, take the whole shaft out, install the switchplate, and then reinstall the shaft.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K76mnQu3aKY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K76mnQu3aKY
Haha, I had to do that too for some kuros I got. Screen-grabbed a utility bill.
Those e-clips are such a pain to get on and off. I was so glad when I finally got it back on.
thanks you. taking it off was easy .. but its a nightmare trying to get it back on lol...
yupp currently dying lol
yea nearly cut my finger and now idk where the eclip went -__- ... might just have wasted money..
Try using the flathead to put it back on too. Grip the flatheadfurther down from the handle and use it to push the eclip back in place. That worked for me and spared my fingers some pain.
I am actually using the flathead. the flathead is what nearly cut me lol.
Well, so much for my insight. You'll get it eventually I'm sure. You found the eclip at least?
Edit: congrats
Bigdrbingo
Neo Member
I'm currently looking for a good arcade stick that will work on both PS3 and 360. I've been looking at the Qanba Q4, can anyone recommend it? Or is there a better stick that'll work on both for that price point? I'm looking for something comparable in terms of quality to the Madcatz Tourney Sticks.
I have a Qanba and I love it! I heard, but haven't experienced, that it drops inputs more frequently than the other fightsticks. But hey, dual mod!
bumpkin
Member
Sold! The amount of play on my stick's joystick always kills me on precise inputs, especially dashing.Thanks to the Hayabusa stick I can do this.
Anyone know if a Hayabusa will fit into a SFIV (Round 1) Fightstick TE?
They never discounted their black one (that I remember). Though Amazon did go down to $149 a few times.
hikarutilmitt
Member
I'm more than willing to bet it does. The reviews make it look like it can be a dropin replacement for a JLF and even Seimitsu sticks will go in most of the time.
Kalamari
Member
Thanks to the Hayabusa stick I can do this.
Hayabusa stick is the Air Jordans of the fighting game world. #wannabelikemike
I found that the easiest way to get an E-clip back on is to use needle-nosed pliers.
Get the pliers around the closed back-end of the E-clip and metal end of the shaft (with the recess for the flathead screwdriver IF the shaft has that grab point).
You want the metal pieces between the "jaws" of the pliers. It should sort of look like "an egg and stick" in the jaws of an alligator.
Gently apply pressure and the E-clip snaps back on easy!
Try to avoid clamping the pliers onto the plastic actuator... You don't want to mess up that part!
Pliers work better with small E-clips sized for the JLF, LS-40, and Hayabusa...
They don't work as well with the larger E-clips I use for the LS-32 and Zippyy. Those 3/8" / 7/16" are getting on the large size for needle-nosed pliers. It's easier to ruin larger E-clips with tools in my experience. I think you're better off using a rag to protect your fingers and exerting force directly with your fingers. The 3/8" size E-clips tend to go on easier after they've been removed once or twice...
SPEAKING OF THE HARDWARE ITSELF, I found out on the last hardware trip to buy E-clips that apparently the differences between the 3/8" and 7/16" E-clips are far less than they were a few years ago when I started modding LS-32's to make spring mods easier. "Older-style" 3/8" E-clips were much smaller and less bulky-looking on the end of LS-32 shafts than 7/16" E-clips. The manufacturers changed the way they make the 3/8" E-clips now. Except for a small difference in the length of the prongs of the 7/16" E-clips -- they're longer(!) --, the parts are essentially the same now... You wouldn't notice the difference in size so much now unless you look closely or use a magnifying glass. Either size-clip works fine on the LS-32, btw. Some people just found it slightly easier to slip the 7/16" E-clip onto the LS-32 shaft.
Speaking as someone who DOES own Mad Catz Tournament Edition Round 1 and Round 2 joysticks, I can tell you for a fact that the Hayabusa DOES install in those joysticks!
I did a check-fit and they'll go in fine... My only concern would be the 5-prong interface on the Hayabusa but you can probably either rotate the PCB or figure some minor mod so that's not an issue.
The Hayabusa base is a lot like the LS-32-01 base. It's bulky and not necessarily the most convenient thing to install. Clearance on all sides is definitely a bigger issue with a bulkier stick base like that...
I had to do some minor internal "pruning" on one of my TE's (Round 2, Marvel Vs Capcom 2 edition) because the 5-prong adapter of the LS-32-01 PCB was being impacted by cable bundling because of one of the plastic cylinders inside the case. I cut the cylinder down a bit with a Dremel and the prong isn't being bent or put under pressure anymore...
Get the pliers around the closed back-end of the E-clip and metal end of the shaft (with the recess for the flathead screwdriver IF the shaft has that grab point).
You want the metal pieces between the "jaws" of the pliers. It should sort of look like "an egg and stick" in the jaws of an alligator.
Gently apply pressure and the E-clip snaps back on easy!
Try to avoid clamping the pliers onto the plastic actuator... You don't want to mess up that part!
Pliers work better with small E-clips sized for the JLF, LS-40, and Hayabusa...
They don't work as well with the larger E-clips I use for the LS-32 and Zippyy. Those 3/8" / 7/16" are getting on the large size for needle-nosed pliers. It's easier to ruin larger E-clips with tools in my experience. I think you're better off using a rag to protect your fingers and exerting force directly with your fingers. The 3/8" size E-clips tend to go on easier after they've been removed once or twice...
SPEAKING OF THE HARDWARE ITSELF, I found out on the last hardware trip to buy E-clips that apparently the differences between the 3/8" and 7/16" E-clips are far less than they were a few years ago when I started modding LS-32's to make spring mods easier. "Older-style" 3/8" E-clips were much smaller and less bulky-looking on the end of LS-32 shafts than 7/16" E-clips. The manufacturers changed the way they make the 3/8" E-clips now. Except for a small difference in the length of the prongs of the 7/16" E-clips -- they're longer(!) --, the parts are essentially the same now... You wouldn't notice the difference in size so much now unless you look closely or use a magnifying glass. Either size-clip works fine on the LS-32, btw. Some people just found it slightly easier to slip the 7/16" E-clip onto the LS-32 shaft.
Speaking as someone who DOES own Mad Catz Tournament Edition Round 1 and Round 2 joysticks, I can tell you for a fact that the Hayabusa DOES install in those joysticks!
I did a check-fit and they'll go in fine... My only concern would be the 5-prong interface on the Hayabusa but you can probably either rotate the PCB or figure some minor mod so that's not an issue.
The Hayabusa base is a lot like the LS-32-01 base. It's bulky and not necessarily the most convenient thing to install. Clearance on all sides is definitely a bigger issue with a bulkier stick base like that...
I had to do some minor internal "pruning" on one of my TE's (Round 2, Marvel Vs Capcom 2 edition) because the 5-prong adapter of the LS-32-01 PCB was being impacted by cable bundling because of one of the plastic cylinders inside the case. I cut the cylinder down a bit with a Dremel and the prong isn't being bent or put under pressure anymore...
bumpkin
Member
Do you still own the stick? Would you mind posting a pic of the inside? My Round 1 Fightstick TE doesn't have the stock PCB in it anymore, it's got a PS360+. Since the holes on it didn't line up with the stock PCB's mounting place, I literally have it held in place by a cable zip-tie. Just curious how much room I'd have to make for a Hayabusa to fit.
Lord Error
Insane For Sony
I started to straddle the crazy world of pro-arcade sticks and buttons yesterday. Got a used iCade for dirt cheap and went on to order a Silent Sanwa stick, 8 Silent 30mm buttons and some fancy balltop replacements for a good measure. It's apparently really easy to replace the (noisy and crappy) default iCade buttons with these ones. The stick replacement seems to be easy too, but man is this stick expensive. I really wanted the whole thing to be as silent as possible though.
What's everyone's suggestion for the type of the gate if my two most played games on this will be Dodonpachi and Metal Slug series? I have square, octogonal and circle gate available.
What's everyone's suggestion for the type of the gate if my two most played games on this will be Dodonpachi and Metal Slug series? I have square, octogonal and circle gate available.
StarCreator
Member
Square is going to be the most versatile, and the one you'd most likely find in an arcade that uses Japanese parts like the Sanwas you ordered.
Lord Error
Insane For Sony
What's the advatange of the square one, over the (kind of my gut preference), octogonal one which can lock the stick to all 8 directions?
StarCreator
Member
*tries desperately to stuff worms back into can*
Technically speaking, octagon restrictors are subsets of square restrictors (the extreme horizontal and vertical edges are the same distance, with the corners filled in so the player reaches the restrictor faster than with a square), so square gates represent maximum freedom of input and still have solid corners. Personally speaking, I think octo gates feel like shit and I would burn every last one on the planet if given the option.
Lord Error
Insane For Sony
Wait, which ones you think feel like shit? Octo or square ones? I'll give them all a try of course, and see which one I like best.
StarCreator
Member
Clarified above, and I would say you're better off spending money on other things.
sixteen-bit
Member
5mm I believe
Lord Error
Insane For Sony
I see. The gates were 90c each so no big deal for sure. I do in fact like the feel of the positional freedom square gate gives on the default iCade stick, so I might just go with that in the end.
Square gates evenly distribute the area in which a directional input will register while octagonal gates provide larger ranges for up, down, left, right and neutral while sacrificing diagonal sensitivity. As I understand it, octagonal gates are favored for KoF and Tekken and nothing else.
Lord Error
Insane For Sony
Is it also true that you can rotate the octo gate 45 degrees? What happens then?
StarCreator
Member
The ranges for the pure non-diagonal directions are exactly the same regardless of restrictor type, and a restrictor cannot change the amount of neutral space (this is a function of the actuator, not the restrictor).
Never heard of that, but if true you'd have more difficulty registering up, down, left and right.
Basically only get an octo gate if you play only tekken or kof or are weird.
Just going off this pic. You saying it's bogus?
