Super "NeoGAF Arcade Stick Thread" II TURBO

I ordered a TE2 for PS4, plugged it in to get back into the swing of things after a couple years, and... I'm having major issues with it.

It's not registering diagonals unless I jam the stick into the corner, and even then it's about 50/50. I literally can't even jump forward or backward reliably (neutral jump is the usual outcome). Forget about qcfs, I have input command on (USSF4), and it goes straight from down to forward (or back, or whatever), regardless of whether I perform a smooth motion or try to exaggerate it. I'm assuming it's a square gate like the last TE stick I owned (the original), and that took a little while to get used to, but I never had issues jumping with that stick.

I have other issues such as the plexiglass or plastic covering the art not being to size so it shifts around under my palms, not being able to turn the PS4 on with the stick and the moisture effect already visible just from taking it out of the box, but what I'm concerned about is the performance.

I'm hoping someone will tell me it has to be broken in like a baseball glove or something, because otherwise this is no bueno.
 
I ordered a TE2 for PS4, plugged it in to get back into the swing of things after a couple years, and... I'm having major issues with it.

It's not registering diagonals unless I jam the stick into the corner, and even then it's about 50/50. I literally can't even jump forward or backward reliably (neutral jump is the usual outcome). Forget about qcfs, I have input command on (USSF4), and it goes straight from down to forward (or back, or whatever), regardless of whether I perform a smooth motion or try to exaggerate it. I'm assuming it's a square gate like the last TE stick I owned (the original), and that took a little while to get used to, but I never had issues jumping with that stick.

I have other issues such as the plexiglass or plastic covering the art not being to size so it shifts around under my palms, not being able to turn the PS4 on with the stick and the moisture effect already visible just from taking it out of the box, but what I'm concerned about is the performance.

I'm hoping someone will tell me it has to be broken in like a baseball glove or something, because otherwise this is no bueno.

I can definitely say not turning on the ps4 with the stick is not possible. It's just how the ps4 is designed
 
I ordered a TE2 for PS4, plugged it in to get back into the swing of things after a couple years, and... I'm having major issues with it.

It's not registering diagonals unless I jam the stick into the corner, and even then it's about 50/50. I literally can't even jump forward or backward reliably (neutral jump is the usual outcome). Forget about qcfs, I have input command on (USSF4), and it goes straight from down to forward (or back, or whatever), regardless of whether I perform a smooth motion or try to exaggerate it. I'm assuming it's a square gate like the last TE stick I owned (the original), and that took a little while to get used to, but I never had issues jumping with that stick.

I have other issues such as the plexiglass or plastic covering the art not being to size so it shifts around under my palms, not being able to turn the PS4 on with the stick and the moisture effect already visible just from taking it out of the box, but what I'm concerned about is the performance.

I'm hoping someone will tell me it has to be broken in like a baseball glove or something, because otherwise this is no bueno.

can you try hooking it up to a pc? it works on pc, right? try clicking the start button and typing "game controller" and click properties. make sure you're still having problems with diagonals there, too.

maybe they used the wrong bell shaped thing on the end of the shaft. I'm not sure what it's called. pretty sure it's not "bell-end."

I wouldn't open it until you chat with MadCatz, though.

edit:it's called an actuator, deffo not bell-end. They should've called it bell-end, though...
oh! the top flips open. I'm guessing it wouldn't void your warranty to just look.
 
So my new buttons are coming in today, and I still can't decide if I wanna replace 6 buttons and leave 2 of the Kuros in, or to just swap all 8 buttons with the dark grey sanwas. What do you guys think would look better?

Here are some pics I found off of google that I'm using to try and make up my mind:

2742587-dsc00453.jpg

 
I am pondering buying one of these, any ideas what parts are used for the sticks and buttons?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PS4-PS3-B...681?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19fef76d79

Thanks!

man, it's kinda hard to find any info about this thing
Insufficient information
edit:http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/comment/10098040#Comment_10098040

So my new buttons are coming in today, and I still can't decide if I wanna replace 6 buttons and leave 2 of the Kuros in, or to just swap all 8 buttons with the dark grey sanwas. What do you guys think would look better?

Here are some pics I found off of google that I'm using to try and make up my mind:

personally, I like it when the 8 buttons match, even if two of them are disabled.
But I think it looks nice sometimes when the buttons are colorful and the other two are some kind of complementing color, I guess. I'll have to think of an example.

Grey seems to be a popular color for buttons in sticks like this
Not the same stick, nor the same buttons(Seimitsu PS-15 with Sanwa SW-68 switches), but similar.


I have buttons out for delivery, too! I'm excited!
 
I just have Sanwa buttons in the colours of the Playstation and Xbox pad buttons. All of them black borders and coloured buttons.
 
can you try hooking it up to a pc? it works on pc, right? try clicking the start button and typing "game controller" and click properties. make sure you're still having problems with diagonals there, too.

maybe they used the wrong bell shaped thing on the end of the shaft. I'm not sure what it's called. pretty sure it's not "bell-end."

I wouldn't open it until you chat with MadCatz, though.

edit:it's called an actuator, deffo not bell-end. They should've called it bell-end, though...
oh! the top flips open. I'm guessing it wouldn't void your warranty to just look.

Thanks for this, I'll test it on PC when I get home tonight. I noticed that if I barely, and I mean barely execute a motion, I had about a 60% success rate, which was obviously much improved. So maybe some of it is having gone years without playing SF/using a stick and becoming a scrub. But then again, I wasn't exactly mashing earlier and jumping diagonally should be an entirely basic maneuver, so I'm hoping it will get better with use or something.

As for the PS button, yeah, it works as intended once the PS4 is turned on, but it cannot be used to turn the PS4 on. I tested it about 50 times. Anybody else have the TE2 stick (that specifically says it's for PS3 and PS4) that can confirm?
 
So my new buttons are coming in today, and I still can't decide if I wanna replace 6 buttons and leave 2 of the Kuros in, or to just swap all 8 buttons with the dark grey sanwas. What do you guys think would look better?

Here are some pics I found off of google that I'm using to try and make up my mind:

I really like the 6+2 one better.
Still waiting to get my HRAP4 (seems like it might arrive next week, maybe..), and won't be modding it until later this fall but I'll most likely go for the 6+2 layout.
 
Woke up, watched some gameplay for virtual fighter 5(never seen the game very much), said holy shit that looks cool, and ordered a vewlix. Bye money
 
I really like the 6+2 one better.
Still waiting to get my HRAP4 (seems like it might arrive next week, maybe..), and won't be modding it until later this fall but I'll most likely go for the 6+2 layout.

I was leaning towards 6+2 up until I was putting it together, and then I decided that all 8 might look cleaner. I think the Kuros would have stood out next to the Sanwas since they have a slightly different size/shape.
 
So I'm beginning to think my issue is that this thing uses an octagonal gate. I kind of blind bought assuming it would use a square gate like the first TE did. It's really hard for me to hit uf, ub, df, db on this thing. Really, really hard. Low blocking is hard, and it shouldn't be. :(
 
So I'm beginning to think my issue is that this thing uses an octagonal gate. I kind of blind bought assuming it would use a square gate like the first TE did. It's really hard for me to hit uf, ub, df, db on this thing. Really, really hard. Low blocking is hard, and it shouldn't be. :(

Unless you bought it from somebody, TE2 comes stock with a square gate.
 
So any reason, as a casual who isn't that used to sticks, that I shouldn't go with Hori Real Arcade Pro 4 instead of Madcatz Arcade FightStick TE2 ?
 
So any reason, as a casual who isn't that used to sticks, that I shouldn't go with Hori Real Arcade Pro 4 instead of Madcatz Arcade FightStick TE2 ?

Nope. The differences aren't something you're likely to notice if you don't use sticks often. Great price, great stick. Do it.
 
Unless you bought it from somebody, TE2 comes stock with a square gate.

I finally opened the thing up, and to my surprise and utter confusion, the "square" gate sits diagonally, so it's actually a diamond shape. This means any movement will favor a cardinal direction, as that's where the "corners" are, and the corner directions (uf, ub, df, db, ... you know, the ones you use for essentials like jumping and defending) are actually the sides of the gate, meaning they are hard to hit and even harder to hold. I literally could not crouch block vs the CPU at all last night.

This is a very illogical design choice to me since u, d, f, b should not be corners, but I'm hardly an engineer. I just recall the TE1 stick having an actual square gate that sat in the shape of a square, and I've never experienced anything this... strange.

In fact, a quick search yields results that equate to what I was expecting. See another example here. Again, note that the gate in my stick sits at a 45% angle, so it's a diamond shape despite being the same part as you see in those pics.

I ordered an 8-way gate because anything has to be better than this, but yeah. It can't just be me.
 
I finally opened the thing up, and to my surprise and utter confusion, the "square" gate sits diagonally, so it's actually a diamond shape. This means any movement will favor a cardinal direction, as that's where the "corners" are, and the corner directions (uf, ub, df, db, ... you know, the ones you use for essentials like jumping and defending) are actually the sides of the gate, meaning they are hard to hit and even harder to hold. I literally could not crouch block vs the CPU at all last night.

This is a very illogical design choice to me since u, d, f, b should not be corners, but I'm hardly an engineer. I just recall the TE1 stick having an actual square gate that sat in the shape of a square, and I've never experienced anything this... strange.

In fact, a quick search yields results that equate to what I was expecting. See another example here. Again, note that the gate in my stick sits at a 45% angle, so it's a diamond shape despite being the same part as you see in those pics.

I ordered an 8-way gate because anything has to be better than this, but yeah. It can't just be me.

If it is indeed rotated you need to take out the center piece and rotate it back so it sits at a square. If it's sitting like you describe it will generally ONLY hit those 4 direction, unless you REALLY want to play pacman with your TE2.

Basically watch this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jQLXRD-0GBg
 
I finally opened the thing up, and to my surprise and utter confusion, the "square" gate sits diagonally, so it's actually a diamond shape. This means any movement will favor a cardinal direction, as that's where the "corners" are, and the corner directions (uf, ub, df, db, ... you know, the ones you use for essentials like jumping and defending) are actually the sides of the gate, meaning they are hard to hit and even harder to hold. I literally could not crouch block vs the CPU at all last night.

This is a very illogical design choice to me since u, d, f, b should not be corners, but I'm hardly an engineer. I just recall the TE1 stick having an actual square gate that sat in the shape of a square, and I've never experienced anything this... strange.

In fact, a quick search yields results that equate to what I was expecting. See another example here. Again, note that the gate in my stick sits at a 45% angle, so it's a diamond shape despite being the same part as you see in those pics.

I ordered an 8-way gate because anything has to be better than this, but yeah. It can't just be me.

This is the way all of my sticks look. That's normal. I'm not sure what you think you're seeing, but that's stock sanwa and looks the way all of my sticks with sanwa look. I can take pictures if you like.
 
If it is indeed rotated you need to take out the center piece and rotate it back so it sits at a square. If it's sitting like you describe it will generally ONLY hit those 4 direction, unless you REALLY want to play pacman with your TE2.

Basically watch this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jQLXRD-0GBg

That did it! Thank you, thank you, thank you. No idea how anyone can deal with the other set up, but now I'm back to actually having a square gate that sits like a square. And most importantly, now I can use it for fighting games, which is the whole point.

Thanks again :)
 
It's totally up to what you want out of an arcade stick experience. Currently there are these options:

HORI V4 / V at $150
Mad Catz TE2 at $200
HORI VLX at $300

Each of them have their own benefits/merits. Feel free to ask about them. You really can't go wrong with either of them, and if price isn't an issue, then go for the one that appeals to you the most.

Markman, what ever happened to the V.S. series? Any plans to bring them back?
 
Markman, what ever happened to the V.S. series? Any plans to bring them back?

I personally want it to come back. We will definitely try to figure something out. Right now I don't think it would work out at it's old price point ($200) directly competing with our T2.

I think we'll figure out some way to use it though. ;) wink wink.
 
I picked up some mirrored acrylic dust covers from Art's Hobbies. I figured they would work well with the VLX Kuro and indeed they do...

G1MsgGr.jpg
 
Anybody get a shipping notice on type-n panels?

madcatz' website is fucking amateur hour, and so is their customer service. Placed the order two weeks ago, when there was, as listed by the website, six of them left. If they weren't going to ship when purchased, then it should have been listed as a preorder. If I didn't get an order in time, then I shouldn't have been charged.

This is the last time I'm going to bother with madcatz' website, which sucks since it seems like they're doubling down on their own site to distribute goods. Can't deal with the customer service that knows nothing about their own products and lack of transparency on the purchases I'm making.
 
Anybody get a shipping notice on type-n panels?

madcatz' website is fucking amateur hour, and so is their customer service. Placed the order two weeks ago, when there was, as listed by the website, six of them left. If they weren't going to ship when purchased, then it should have been listed as a preorder. If I didn't get an order in time, then I shouldn't have been charged.

This is the last time I'm going to bother with madcatz' website, which sucks since it seems like they're doubling down on their own site to distribute goods. Can't deal with the customer service that knows nothing about their own products and lack of transparency on the purchases I'm making.

At least they don't ask you to FAX in a proof of address when the shipping and billing addresses aren't the same. (Fuck off Hori.) I've pretty much given up on dealing with anybody other than amazon.com. Your shit ain't on amazon? I ain't buying it then.
 
Anybody get a shipping notice on type-n panels?

madcatz' website is fucking amateur hour, and so is their customer service. Placed the order two weeks ago, when there was, as listed by the website, six of them left. If they weren't going to ship when purchased, then it should have been listed as a preorder. If I didn't get an order in time, then I shouldn't have been charged.

This is the last time I'm going to bother with madcatz' website, which sucks since it seems like they're doubling down on their own site to distribute goods. Can't deal with the customer service that knows nothing about their own products and lack of transparency on the purchases I'm making.

The timing of your post is so coincidental because mine came in today! Crazy part is I had no clue it ever shipped. I got an email TODAY saying my order was fulfilled and a tracking number was in it. Apparently it shipped last Thursday.

I'll get some pics up in a bit.
 
The detechable USB plug from one of my TE sticks is cut/ripped. Where can I get a replacement for this?

Do you mean TE2? Probably, your only option is to contact mad catz.

Also guys here's some pics and impressions of the Type-N panel for the TE2.
syYv5Dzh.jpg


I actually like the artwork. My only problem is that the hole cutouts are too big. Those grey things are not highlights, it's the metal panel!

My big issue though is that the acrylic included is the thin problematic kind that everybody is complaining about. I haven't seen any oil spots or anything but my problem is that the acrylic shifts during use!
It's very annoying and distracting and actually gets in the way of my gameplay.

Another thing to mention is that mad catz obviously never plans to make a LED board for this. Here you can see the mounting points just aren't there. Not a big deal to most but I felt I should mention it.
DkVRYeZh.jpg


So my feeling is kind of bittersweet. I love Noir but the acrylic ruins the experience because it's literally working against me, so I might go back to what I previously had it as and store the panel for collecting purposes.
I6Fpjdrh.jpg
 
...I have other issues such as the plexiglass or plastic covering the art not being to size so it shifts around under my palms, not being able to turn the PS4 on with the stick and the moisture effect already visible just from taking it out of the box, but what I'm concerned about is the performance.

Same issue with the plexiglass here, happened to a friend of mine as well. Is the plexiglass moving/not being cut properly just the way the USF4 TE2s are? Feels kind of cheap, I'm contemplating returning and just modding my V.S. for PS4. I get that it's not bolted down like the V.S. series sticks are, but shouldn't it at least fit snug against the edges of the stick?
 
This was brought up a few pages back, but I'm curious about the FC30 stick by 8Bitdo. It's advertised as working on PC and smartphones via bluetooth, but it has a USB cable, and there's button notation next to the buttons for a dualmodded 360/PS3 stick. Has anyone picked it up? Any review I find is usually not in English and doesn't mention anything about consoles. I figured that at worst, I can pop a PS360+ into one and just use the case, but I'd hate to spend $80 for just a case.

Here's a link for anyone interested. It's modeled after a Famicom controller, and it's damn pretty: https://www.facebook.com/8bitdo/posts/391828130998991

edit: Here's some shots of the inside: http://www.systempixel.fr/blog/2015/0327-8bitdo-fc30-arcade-joystick/DSC06675_medium.jpg
 
The timing of your post is so coincidental because mine came in today! Crazy part is I had no clue it ever shipped. I got an email TODAY saying my order was fulfilled and a tracking number was in it. Apparently it shipped last Thursday.

I'll get some pics up in a bit.

Do you mean TE2? Probably, your only option is to contact mad catz.

Also guys here's some pics and impressions of the Type-N panel for the TE2.

Thanks for the pics. Got my shipping notice this morning, it's out for delivery today already. Wonderful. I always have to make a shipping exception since I'm not home during the day, and now I won't have time to do that, which means I have to wait another day after the failed delivery. Not a huge deal, but if I would have gotten notice in a timely manner, this wouldn't have happened.

Sad to hear about the plexi. Foehammer customs is in my neck of the woods, so if it's that bad, I'm just going to take the plexi to them and have them cut out a better one for me.
 
It's totally up to what you want out of an arcade stick experience. Currently there are these options:

I'll say this- what I'm looking for primarily with a stick, is extremely fast response times like the Qanba Q4 has.

Is there a reason why Mad Catz tend to be a couple of ms slower? I really noticed it hard switching between the Q4 (mine has reliability issues right now) and the Tekken stick I bought in 2013 (was the all-black stick, looks really nice though)
 
This was brought up a few pages back, but I'm curious about the FC30 stick by 8Bitdo.

I like the look of this. It looks like a rebadged Venom stick.

Here's a great thread on that from SRK
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/195434/venom-arcade-stick-ps4-ps3/p1

Same issue with the plexiglass here, happened to a friend of mine as well. Is the plexiglass moving/not being cut properly just the way the USF4 TE2s are? Feels kind of cheap, I'm contemplating returning and just modding my V.S. for PS4. I get that it's not bolted down like the V.S. series sticks are, but shouldn't it at least fit snug against the edges of the stick?

Unfortunately, it is the way the plexi is on all their latest TE2s. However they used to come with a much better one that is perfectly flush with the bezel and doesn't move at all. I have that on my KI TE2.

Thanks for the pics. Got my shipping notice this morning, it's out for delivery today already. Wonderful. I always have to make a shipping exception since I'm not home during the day, and now I won't have time to do that, which means I have to wait another day after the failed delivery. Not a huge deal, but if I would have gotten notice in a timely manner, this wouldn't have happened.

Sad to hear about the plexi. Foehammer customs is in my neck of the woods, so if it's that bad, I'm just going to take the plexi to them and have them cut out a better one for me.
I know right? That's so odd that the shipping emails went out so late. If you get a foehammer plexi, I'd love to hear how that works out for ya.
 
Im really liking those dust covers from Art's. I am going to definitely pick up one for my VLX when I get a chance. If I remember to order one that is.
 
Um...

Can anyone explain what the difference is between

HORI Real Arcade Pro 4 Kai and
HORI Real Arcade Pro V4 Hayabusa

The obvious difference to me is the button layout but what else is there? Which is better?
 
Um...

Can anyone explain what the difference is between

HORI Real Arcade Pro 4 Kai and
HORI Real Arcade Pro V4 Hayabusa

The obvious difference to me is the button layout but what else is there? Which is better?

I think the Kai has a touchpad and can reassign a few buttons to have different functions. They both have Hayabusa levers and kuros buttons in them.
 
What would you guys say the best xbone stick is? Thinking about getting an Xbox for killer instinct..

Honestly, none. Stick support on XB1 is functional but I feel barely supported by MS. The stick will function on the menu and only on games that developers remember to allow stick support.

The best option is a padhack but I know for some people it's not an option.

Stock stick choices are Hori Rap and the TE2. If you are heavy into modding, TE2 is easy access. Hori is cool but you may need to switch out components if you don't like the Hayabusa and the Kuros.
Im really liking those dust covers from Art's. I am going to definitely pick up one for my VLX when I get a chance. If I remember to order one that is.
Yeah do it. Art does cool stuff so I really like supporting him.

I think the Kai has a touchpad and can reassign a few buttons to have different functions. They both have Hayabusa levers and kuros buttons in them.

That touchpad has been pretty useful for games that use it as a button. I love it on the vlx.
 
I decided to replace the art on my TE2 because the USF4 art is honestly horrid. Learned some things about it. First off, the oil spots /ruined/ the art and the plexi is seriously the thinnest POS ever. If you wanna tighten things up to make it not slide around it's possible, and it's super easy to get everything apart and to do art mods. Only problem I have is the plexi it ships with is awful and it ruined the art that was there previously :<


Other than that this was probably the easiest I've ever had working on a stick. I seriously threw this together Sunday night, went and printed it Monday and had the stick apart and back together with the art in place after an hour or so.
 
I decided to replace the art on my TE2 because the USF4 art is honestly horrid. Learned some things about it. First off, the oil spots /ruined/ the art and the plexi is seriously the thinnest POS ever. If you wanna tighten things up to make it not slide around it's possible,

How did you manage to get your plexi to not slide around? Just tightening the screws on the bezel? Mine still slides around no matter what.
 
What would you guys say the best xbone stick is? Thinking about getting an Xbox for killer instinct..
It's mostly the same as the PS4 with 1 exception.

TE2
HRAP Hayabusa
Razer Atrox

The TE2 is pretty much identical to the PS4 version afaik.
I haven't heard much about the Hayabusa but I assume that is also mostly the same as the HRAP4. Hayabusa joystick and kuro buttons.
AFAIK the Atrox is a fine stick. Similar to the TE2 (opens up, sanwa parts) and is also quite hefty from what I've heard.



Speaking of Arcade sticks: I decided to change the buttons and joystick on my HRAP4 Kai. Buttons changed to Sanwa OBSF-30s (options button changed to Sanwa OBSF-24) and the joystick changed to the Seimitsu LS-32-01.
The button colours mimic the Xbox button colours to help remind me which Playstation buttons correspond to which Xbox buttons.
I have to mention that the Sanwa OBSF-30 buttons are extremely tight fits while the Sanwa OBSF-24 button is a pretty loose fit.
There Sanwa buttons are also smaller than the kuros so there is a slight gap at the bottom of each button. (You might be able to see it in the bottom picture at the bottom of each button.)

Before (stock):


After:
 
Okay, thanks guys. I really wish I could just use my hori ex-se on the ONE, but seems im out of luck. Now I just debate on if killer instinct is worth it
 
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