CrashPrime
Member
Right my question was more about the usb adapters and what the 8 min thing IS. I know the brook board fixes it, but what happens if it isnt fixed? You get 8min and have to re-plug the controller?
Super "NeoGAF Arcade Stick Thread" II TURBO
- Thread starter MarkMan
- Start date
Right my question was more about the usb adapters and what the 8 min thing IS. I know the brook board fixes it, but what happens if it isnt fixed? You get 8min and have to re-plug the controller?
I've been playing around with the TE2+ for a few days now and honestly I'm a bit underwhelmed. For 260 I expected it to be an upgrade compared to my old Round 1 TE, but so far it feels like more a sidegrade. Obviously the TE2+ has more features and is easier to mod, but on the other hand it just doesn't feel as sturdy as the TE. I'm also not liking the fact that the TE2+ creaks if you apply any pressure near the cover release button, and the fact that the plexi moves around ever so slightly.
Maybe I should have just gone for the TE-S+ instead.
Maybe I should have just gone for the TE-S+ instead.
Yeah, I'll let you know if I make any progress on it. The thing that's throwing me off though is the fact that the squeak goes away for a while after readjusting the restrictor. Hopefully someone with more experience can chime in, since it's starting to drive me nuts.
Worst case scenario, I might just buy a new restrictor/switches since they're not too expensive.
hikarutilmitt
Member
They do avoid the timeout, not sure how they're doing it but supposedly their parent group, ZeroPlus, actually has a license to make controllers and boards.
The Xbox One will not read a Brook UFB through the imp v2. Small issue for me since I don't have that console, but I decided to just have a neutrik USB port to feed directly to the Brook UFB.
It is easier for updates and plugging to the PS4 to play SFV.
Code:
[IMG]http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h114/Amedo310/IMG_20160225_133820_zpsbu5zlzkj.jpg[/IMG]It is easier for updates and plugging to the PS4 to play SFV.
I got questions people! Perhaps you can help!
I have a HRAP EX that I recently put Sanwa silent buttons into and an octo gate, I'm using it with a Brook converter to play SFV on my PS4.
First thing first, the Octo gate is incredble. It had helped my execution a ton. Its the easiest thing to change out in the whole stick, and if you've only ever used square, you should at least try it to see if you like it.
It has added some throw to the stick which I am not happy about at all. I already find the spring to be very loose, and the loose spring combined with the larger throw really annoys me.
Does anyone have any experience with Kowal 1mm Oversize Actuator for Sanwa JLF Series Joystick? If it does what the illustrations at the link show, and does it well without any side effects... I WANT IT.
http://www.focusattack.com/kowal-1mm-oversize-actuator-for-sanwa-jlf-series-joystick/
Related Question! - I want the stick tighter. Fucking with the spring looks like a horror show. Combining two springs seems like the worst idea ever and super hacky. Anyone have experince with this? Any advice? Should I look into swapping out the JLF?
LED BUTTONS! Do light up buttons need some kind of extra power line run to them, or do they just run off power from the board and you connect them like normal? I would love a set, but not if I have to start soldering and messing with my boards and stuff.
I have a HRAP EX that I recently put Sanwa silent buttons into and an octo gate, I'm using it with a Brook converter to play SFV on my PS4.
First thing first, the Octo gate is incredble. It had helped my execution a ton. Its the easiest thing to change out in the whole stick, and if you've only ever used square, you should at least try it to see if you like it.
It has added some throw to the stick which I am not happy about at all. I already find the spring to be very loose, and the loose spring combined with the larger throw really annoys me.
Does anyone have any experience with Kowal 1mm Oversize Actuator for Sanwa JLF Series Joystick? If it does what the illustrations at the link show, and does it well without any side effects... I WANT IT.
http://www.focusattack.com/kowal-1mm-oversize-actuator-for-sanwa-jlf-series-joystick/
Related Question! - I want the stick tighter. Fucking with the spring looks like a horror show. Combining two springs seems like the worst idea ever and super hacky. Anyone have experince with this? Any advice? Should I look into swapping out the JLF?
LED BUTTONS! Do light up buttons need some kind of extra power line run to them, or do they just run off power from the board and you connect them like normal? I would love a set, but not if I have to start soldering and messing with my boards and stuff.
1. I used the Kowal actuator in all of my sticks, but I use Hayabusa. It is a preference, but it does the job for me.
2. I used many springs too. Even done two in one, but stopped doing it and you should too. Just try out a seimitsu spring or the 2lb tension spring. They work.
3. You need an extra PCB that manages the LED boards, like the Kaimana PCB: http://www.jasenscustoms.com/Kaimana-Khameleon_p_59.html, or the Remora RGB Controller from Goldlikecontrols: http://godlikecontrols.com/ Also, you need the LEDs themselves. I'm not sure what the Kaimana takes, but I know that the Remora RGB will take the ArcEye3 RGB Leds, which are sold in the same website.
I had the same feeling when I switched to octo gates way back, the Kowal actuator is great for fixing that, and it makes the stick feel ever so slightly tighter. But yeah as mentioned just try a heavier spring out too if you want it noticeably tighter.
Hellshingu
Member
Anyone with PCB knowledge know if the new Hori's are using a different PCB than the first generation HRAP4? I don't want to spend $150 just to find out for myself 
Best case scenario would be switching out my old VLX Kuro PCB for one of the newer ones with XInput.
Best case scenario would be switching out my old VLX Kuro PCB for one of the newer ones with XInput.Thank you SO MUCH for all that info, thats exactly what I was looking for.
You seem to have a lot of the same preferences as I. How is the Hayabusa? Is it something I should look into?
Were there ever any negative side effects from having the actuator in?
I tried different springs in the Hayabusa stick which I felt was too loose out of the box. I tried a 2 lb, but it seemed like too big a jump in stiffness where it felt like the kinda light Hori Kai stick base was moving around too much on my lap as a result. I then tried a 1.5 lb, which was the sweet spot for me for that stick. It felt a little tighter than a standard Hori, but not too much.
It's not too bad changing it, really. It's just tricky prying the little washer thing that keeps it in place off the base of the stick.
1. I love the Hayabusa joystick, but I can't give you a detail description about how they feel compare to the JLF. I can play on both of them well. I bought the hori joystick based on the opinions of this thread: http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/187668/hori-hayabusa-unboxing-mods/p1
And with the Kowal octagon, the Hayabusa is my go to stick for KOF.
bob_arctor
Tough_Smooth
Okay, so the Hayabusa buttons are matte finish, low-profile and don't come in the standard Kai, correct??
Well, I just got my Kai today off Amazon ($149, so the regular one) and it somehow has the Hayabusa buttons. They are matte and low profile and totally different from the Kuros I have stored in a box upstairs.
How did this happen???
Amazon was out of stock. Is Hori now shipping new Kai's with Hayabusa buttons as well???
I am very, very happy. Skilletor, they are pretty dope looking but I have to run 'em on SFV to see how they perform.
Well, I just got my Kai today off Amazon ($149, so the regular one) and it somehow has the Hayabusa buttons. They are matte and low profile and totally different from the Kuros I have stored in a box upstairs.
How did this happen???
Amazon was out of stock. Is Hori now shipping new Kai's with Hayabusa buttons as well???
I am very, very happy. Skilletor, they are pretty dope looking but I have to run 'em on SFV to see how they perform.
They had a stealth update to the Kai that apparently added the new buttons and a third PC mode for x-input.
bob_arctor
Tough_Smooth
lowhighkang_LHK
Member
It seems it's sold everywhere. Well at least the 360 to ps4 adapter.
ExitPlanetDust
Member
Too bad we don't get firmware updates for sticks. :/
I'm looking up info about the Hori VLX Kuro stick and can you guys tell me if its too heavy to have on your lap? My problem with the original Mad Catz TE was that it moved on my lap during play and a heavier stick could fix that issue.
But I don't want a stick thats just too uncomfortable for lap play. I usually take a break every 30-45 minutes so I don't need to hold it for a very long period.
But I don't want a stick thats just too uncomfortable for lap play. I usually take a break every 30-45 minutes so I don't need to hold it for a very long period.
It's 13lbs, so it might be. I can play with it on my lap, but unless I have room to stretch my legs out, it starts to hurt after a few matches.
It can be done, but not the best way to play on a VLX, imo.
Don't know if posted yet, but the TES+ template is out:
http://madcatz.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/PS4_PS3_TESTemplateRGB.psd
http://madcatz.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/PS4_PS3_TESTemplateRGB.psd
Cindi Mayweather
Member
Yes, I have those buttons.
Does anyone have a pic or a link to where I can find the artwork from the Persona 4: Ultimax Ultra Suplex Hold Fightstick for the TE2. Its for a custom template for my Chun Li TE2. Not a big fan of the fake 3D artwork.
I found the shadow alternate art on Madcatz website if anyone wants it too, I would still rather have the original art though if possible.
Shadow Alt Link: http://madcatz.com/files/PS4_PS3_P4U_TE2_Shadow.psd.zip
I found the shadow alternate art on Madcatz website if anyone wants it too, I would still rather have the original art though if possible.
Shadow Alt Link: http://madcatz.com/files/PS4_PS3_P4U_TE2_Shadow.psd.zip
Are there any markings on the box that makes it different from the old Hayabusa sticks?
PAULINK
I microwave steaks.
The problems I had with the vlx is if you play on your lap, it tends to rock back and forth (front to back). And it's just a really hollow sounding stick since it has a lot of space inside.
RedAssedApe
Banned
It'll say on the box that it has hayabusa buttons instead of kuros. You should also be able to tell that the buttons are matte instead of glossy.
It has a pc mode (old version doesn't) and the buttons are ordered differently on the side panel. Ps button on the far right instead of in the middle. It also has a text labels on the top panel so you know what the buttons are on the side panel without having to look at them.
Same thing happened to me, I'm very pleased. This is my first fight stick, so I was hesitant to get the rap4 after reading about the rapV having the better hayabusa buttons over in japan, but when it arrived I was shocked to find out the Hayabusa buttons made their way into the new stock of US RAP4s.
Hellshingu
Member
I got a quick question for you guys. Anyone know a nice easy fix for Sanwa squeaky stick? I'll link a video I took of it below.
https://youtu.be/1NkrTrBh62U
https://youtu.be/1NkrTrBh62U
We've had three posters in this thread (including myself) complain about a squeaky stick on the TE2+, so I'm beginning to think it's a common problem. I have no idea what's causing it though, since it seems to go away for a while if I remove/reattach the restrictor gate, which doesn't seem to match a lot of the descriptions of a squeaky stick I've been reading about.
I'm hoping someone who knows more can help us out, since it's really annoying that my brand new $230 stick makes this obnoxious noise when used.
notworksafe
Member
color me shocked that a dying company with an already cheap manufacturing process cheaped out even more than usual
So I asked this in the SFV thread and was ignored twice! Perhaps I should have asked it here all along, my own fault really. I picked up a SFIV TE (not the 2 but the 1) from amazon for around 88$ a few days ago. How do these things hold up in general? I am a bit of a casual street fighter player, I don't really go for crazy long sessions but I wanted something within the 100$ range and I really enjoy playing with a stick. I am currently playing with a Saturn Virtua Stick hooked up through a mayflash adapter.. how much of an improvement are we talking here?
Tyvm for replying. Do you guys have a Mad Catz TE2 (+) as well? I can't seem to find the exact weight of the TE2.
I'm undecided between the VLX and the TE2, if the TE2 is just marginally lighter in weight I might just get the VLX, the build quality looks to be better.
Decided that since I'm moving to Japan and going to live in an apartment, I want to make my stick as quiet as possible. As such, I'm going to place the buttons and stick in my HRAP V5 Hayabusa with Sanwa's silent JLF and OBSFSs. While I'm at it, I'd also like to replace the art with something a little nicer, if possible. Anyone know how easy replacing the art on this stick is? Also, I don't suppose there's an easy way for me to make a mockup of the button/stick colours? I'm thinking i'll go for a white JLF and white buttons, with the four Neo Geo button colours, of course.
Edit: is it just me or do the majority of people get the Neo Geo button colours in the wrong order? Or is that some weird preference where they're bound C-A-D-B?
Edit: is it just me or do the majority of people get the Neo Geo button colours in the wrong order? Or is that some weird preference where they're bound C-A-D-B?
I'm fuckin pissed so I checked it out.
The microswitches are squeaky.... I'm just gonna deal with it and upgrade to silent jlf i guess. Not much we can do as mad catz prolly doesnt give a fuck.
I'm still using the one I bought around the release of SFIV and it's excellent. Still in good condition and working like it did on day one. I'm not a hardcore player either, but it has gotten quite some use throughout the years. It also works fine with SFV on Steam (the Xbox 360 version), so that's another plus.
Seasoned Badger
Member
I had this issue when I bought my Madcatz stick for SF4, it's due to dust build up in the micro switches (at least for me). I had to scrape off the dust in the micro switches with a q-tip manually before the squeak went away. If you seach "squeaky madcatz stick" in google, you'll find a lot of information on the subject, like this one:
http://support.focusattack.com/hc/en-us/articles/207448323-How-to-Fix-Squeaky-Sanwa-JLF-Joystick
thanks, you are probably correct. my TES+ microswitches are squeaky.
i'll try cleaning them this weekend - did you reapply any grease or just clean the dust off?
Seasoned Badger
Member
No, all I did was clean the grime off and it was perfect. I would have apply some grease to it but a tube of those grease is pretty expensive.
pineapplepizza
Member
I can't imagine there's build up on brand new Te2+ sticks
Seasoned Badger
Member
I can confirm that my TE2+ stick is squeaky as well. It only seems to squeak when pushed left, and the squeaking seems to go away intermittently. I don't notice it when playing though.
Novum_Veritas
Member
I hope I do not have squeaky buttons or stick with my TE2.
thanks, this helped but i'm still hearing it a touch.
will try a bit of grease later. hope that does it.
Is it possible to mod the Hori RAP4 with these buttons?
You could get some clear sanwa or seimitsus and cut these pictures out and put them in.