bob_arctor
Tough_Smooth
Looks soooo good in white.
Super "NeoGAF Arcade Stick Thread" II TURBO
- Thread starter MarkMan
- Start date
Looks soooo good in white.
pineapplepizza
Member
Edzi it's mad easy, open your case and remove the gate, the next piece holds your microswitches which slides out easily
pineapplepizza
Member
I may be wrong but I don't think people are cleaning the inside of the microswitches themselves, only the outside and the red button/tab
okay well i used that image of the HRAP4 as a basic template and came up with something like this. I like the idea of using one of my favourite fighting game backgrounds because I think they're nice and I think most arcade stick art looks tacky when it just has an anime girl on it. Neo Geo button colours and the rest would be white. Thoughts?
sixteen-bit
Member
Hori do have some HRAP Vs molded in white plastic. I wonder if you can mix and match for a two-tone look without worrying about paint rubbing off
As best as my scrub ass can tell, the two seem pretty comparable. I just tried out a match of Ryu vs. Ryu, trying to test out like that site did to see whose normals came out faster and if anything it seemed to me like the Hayabusa revision won out on counter-hits a bit more often than the MCZ TE, though there were plenty of trades and MCZ counterhits too. I'm sure there's plenty of margin for user error in this, but I have also wondered previously if there might be some sort of a latency issue with the legacy-mode controllers given however they added that in (since it still requires an active DS4 I imagine there's some sort of routing going on). Take this with a cup of salt rather than a grain, but from my early anecdotal look it doesn't strike me that the Kai is at any sort of distinct frame disadvantage.
I like the thought of the background being used for your backdrop, although the bright primary Neo Geo colors for the buttons do kind of clash with the natural autumn aesthetic you've got going for the backing.
OMG This modded RAP4! He did his own artwork, so I'm going to do mine!
I'm going to get to work on my new template. I can't do the other one because the Hayabusa buttons which are completely black. I wish it were possible to have buttons painted.
i would like to have sex with it. sorry
not sorry
bob_arctor
Tough_Smooth
Hori do have some HRAP Vs molded in white plastic. I wonder if you can mix and match for a two-tone look without worrying about paint rubbing off
Now why did you have to show me this?? Have to track it down now. Wallet am cry.
Cindi Mayweather
Member
Why in the world is HORI so keen on the black vibe now when their sticks look a million times better in white?!
they should really offer more choices in colors.
Does anyone have a pic or a link to where I can find the artwork from the Persona 4: Ultimax Ultra Suplex Hold Fightstick for the TE2. Its for a custom template for my Chun Li TE2. Not a big fan of the fake 3D artwork.
I found the shadow alternate art on Madcatz website if anyone wants it too, I would still rather have the original art though if possible.
Shadow Alt Link: http://madcatz.com/files/PS4_PS3_P4U_TE2_Shadow.psd.zip
I found the shadow alternate art on Madcatz website if anyone wants it too, I would still rather have the original art though if possible.
Shadow Alt Link: http://madcatz.com/files/PS4_PS3_P4U_TE2_Shadow.psd.zip
sixteen-bit
Member
maybe they're fishing for double dips down the road
Cindi Mayweather
Member
Now that MCZ is likely to go out of business I hope HORI continues step it up.
Booker.DeWitt
Member
sixteen-bit
Member
Ehrgeiz / Dissidia stick?
Imperfected
Member
Anyone have experience with the HRAPV Hayabusa? I'm getting some weird problems with super motions, I'm thinking it's snapping back beyond neutral between the first and second QCFs. Too aggressive of a spring or something?
I bought one not long ago because one showed up on amazon which doesn't happen often. One thing to note about it is the spacing between the buttons and stick are closer than the other Hori sticks that look similar to that. Some people might not like that.
Someone posted about the old HRAP SEs for the PS2. I still think those look damn sexy. I tried to get my EX-SE to look as classy as those, but I don't think I got there. Maybe if I peeled off that sticker and it was just brushed metal...
I like the white plastic, but I think the black Fighting Edge sticks look better (probably because they're harder to find, lol)
Oh yeah, that VX SA I bought came with a Black cable door. I used Vinyl dye on it so it'd match better and... that shit ain't scratching off. It's got a nice texture to it, too.
Fucking great, the te2+ template from madcatz isn't even aligned properly.
I should've just done a solid color instead of having black holes for the button and stick placement.
Out of the 5 sets of images, only one is usable as it's just black and white. Fuck.
That pink tho! Totally what I was thinking of doing.
Final Fantasy VII Meteor and buster sword
Seasoned Badger
Member
I may be wrong but I don't think people are cleaning the inside of the microswitches themselves, only the outside and the red button/tab
I haven't cleaned the micro switches since I fix the squeaking noise but when I did, I remember I lightly pry open that box and cleaned the entire length of the red micro switch before the squeak went away. But I only went that far because the squeaking was driving me crazy and if I wasn't able to fix it, I was just going to buy a Hori.
How exactly did you open it? I really don't want to accidentally damage it.
Seasoned Badger
Member
Get a flat head screw driver and pry it open between the crack, sorta like opening a walnut. It should open with ease because it's not glued on.
Gotcha, thanks. I'll give it a try later and report back.
EDIT: Yeah, I don't think I can do this. I can't even unplug the PCB from the stick, let alone try and pry open the microswitch box without feeling like I'm going to break something. I need to do something though, this squeaking is killing me.
Seasoned Badger
Member
Can you post a picture of the inside of the TE2+? I don't think you need to unhook the stick from the PCB to clean the micro switches. Just remove the restrictor gate (clear plastic thing) and you can access the micro switches.
Seeing all of these sticks with conjoined circle layouts around the buttons just makes me want to do a stick-mod based on Rhythm Tengoku.
Maybe get Karate Joe on it, black and yellow/orange buttons, man it would be slick but I don't think I can go that far for my very first stick, especially since it's not like I'm gonna be traveling to tournaments or anything anyway.
Doooo it! Who cares if you won't be traveling to tournaments? It's your stick. Customize it to your hearts content. You'll be using it day in day out. Have something you'll enjoy looking at/using.
I can get to the PCB and microswitches just fine after removing the gate, but I can't figure out how to pry them open.
Here's a quick (and terrible) pic of the pcb/microswitches after I've removed the gate and slid the pcb off the stick:
http://imgur.com/xQzfSqN
Seasoned Badger
Member
Put the flat head inside that opening and lift up and the cover should open like this:
Take the red thing out and give it a good polish.
Put the flat head inside that opening and lift up and the cover should open like this:
Take the red thing out and give it a good polish.
The microswitches are soldered onto the PCB though, so I can't really get a good handle on them, and putting too much force makes it feel like the pcb might break. I appreciate all the help though, I'll try again in a bit.
Seasoned Badger
Member
You are only taking the cover off.
Yeah, but the whole thing is soldered onto the pcb so I can't get a good angle for the flat head without feeling like I'm going too hard. I dunno, I think I might just be too paranoid about breaking the damn thing since I've never done this before. I'll give it another go.
Seasoned Badger
Member
That's all the help I can give you, it's up to you if fixing the squeaking is worth the risk.
Well, worst thing that can happen is that I need to spend an extra $10 for a replacement, right? So I'll just keep going at it. Thanks for all the advice, it's been really helpful. I'll let you know if I get it opened and cleaned up.
I feel that! My buddy said the same thing. Gonna work on coming up with a more cohesive design before I pull the trigger. I wonder if it would look better with orange for the main 6, black for the two on the side and maybe a red start button? Something like that?
I'll try out a few more backgrounds, too.
So I was browsing arcade sticks on a whim and stumbled upon the Qanba Q1, and dangit now I want to buy it even though I probably don't technically need it but man it looks really cool.
Given these criteria, would the Qanba Q1 suffice, and/or what other options are there?
Given these criteria, would the Qanba Q1 suffice, and/or what other options are there?
- Will be primarily used for shmups, occasionally for fighting games.
- PC compatibility first, PS3 second. XInput support is nice but not essential.
- "Good Enough" quality - clicky enough, durable enough, etc.
- Potential for future upgrades/mods.
- Minimal appearance/branding preferred but not required.
- Less than $100 preferred, but more than that is ok if you can justify it.
Put the flat head inside that opening and lift up and the cover should open like this:
Take the red thing out and give it a good polish.
Thanks for the instructions!You are only taking the cover off.
I opened up my TE2+ last night and cleaned the part of the microswitch button that sticks out of the switch, but was too afraid to open the microswitch itself since it seemed to be held together pretty tightly. I just tried again and managed to successfully open the microswitch! The inside didn't seem dusty or anything, but I took the button out anyway and cleaned it with a q-tip, and now the stick is no longer squeaking. Success!
Got in and cleaned the crap out of it... Still squeaking. Mostly from going down, but also left and right sometimes. I'm at a loss now, not really sure what to do.
EDIT: Unbelievable, it's squeaking when I go up now too! And it really does seem kinda random. It stops squeaking sometimes in certain directions and then starts acting up again. Right now it's only squeaking when I go up (which used to be the only direction I didn't notice a squeak), but I'm sure if I play around with it then more directions will likely start squeaking only to "reset" if I open it up and remove the gate. Could it be something other than the microswitches? Or do I maybe just have a faulty set?
Q1 covers basically all of that except for Xinput support, which you can get through a wrapper on PC. The parts aren't "true arcade quality" but they aren't bad and can be replaced easily enough.
Only paradise arcade, but they are out of stock on the brook PCB.
fuck it, i'm done! returning my TES+
the squeaky microswitches i could deal with, even though it soured me on the build quality immediately. considering my OG SFIV TE still feels flawless after 8 years of being beat up, i wasn't thrilled with the new production.
last night the ps button got stuck down and has remained down. i could fix this, but there's no point. there are other stick options i'm going to look at.
someone fill me in on the hori stick - is the hayabusa spring tighter than the jlf? looser? how's the deadzone? which ps4 stick am i looking at if i want their newest buttons?
really appreciate the insight
the squeaky microswitches i could deal with, even though it soured me on the build quality immediately. considering my OG SFIV TE still feels flawless after 8 years of being beat up, i wasn't thrilled with the new production.
last night the ps button got stuck down and has remained down. i could fix this, but there's no point. there are other stick options i'm going to look at.
someone fill me in on the hori stick - is the hayabusa spring tighter than the jlf? looser? how's the deadzone? which ps4 stick am i looking at if i want their newest buttons?
really appreciate the insight
nice
last question before i pull the trigger on this and return my tes+: any reason to import the hrap v haybusa now that the hrap 4 has all the same parts?
The hrap hayabusa have the new hayabusa buttons. The original one have kuro buttons.
Cindi Mayweather
Member
So glad I got a HRAP4 now! Seems the latest MCZ products were shoddily made, AND they're endlessly delayed despite that.
Thanks Hori for bringing us stocked quality arcade sticks in this dire hour!
Thanks Hori for bringing us stocked quality arcade sticks in this dire hour!
Friend of mine had the same thing happen to his TES+.