For what it's worth, my LS-40 flat (non-S) plate didn't exactly align with my Venom either. But what I found was that the screws mounting the joystick to the plate (they're in a square shape) lined up with four screws on the Venom's panel perfectly. So I just removed the plate and mounted the joystick directly onto the Venom.
The positions for the screws for the mounting plate for the LS-56/58 (left) are different to those on the LS-32/40 (right) - they use a different set of mounting plates for that reason, though I guess there's some generic plates (there's a Kowal one, at least) designed to allow you to mount multiple types of sticks to multiple different panels.
These extra holes on the Vemons front panel (which I honestly hadn't even noticed until you guys mentioned it. Learn something new every day!) are sizes for the LS-32/40-type sticks, rather than the LS-56/58.
The mount for the stick in the Venom is a straight-up clone of the standard Sanwa JLF-P1, coincidentally. The Seimitsu SE P-40 flat plate for the 56/58 has mounting holes which line up with the mounting positions on the stock mounting plate - here's me holding the stock mounting plate (and one from a Hori Hayabusa, because why not?) over that LS-58 with a P-40 I pictured above.
I've had that particular stick on that particular mounting plate in a Venom before, so it should be fine.
I suspect it may sit slightly higher than it's supposed to, but that doesn't feel wrong to me at all. Hell, it feels amazing.
That's probably OK - I'm under the impression that the plate-to-handle thread distance on the LS-40 (and the 32, for that matter) is a few millimetres shorter than a JLF or a LS-56, presumably with the expectation that you are mounting it fairly close to the surface of the stick. It'll probably be within a millimetre or two of the stick you've removed.
Does this fit on a Sanwa stick or just the hayabusa?
It's specifically made for the Hayabusa - they Hayabusa isn't really made with replacing the gate in mind, so you're removing a bunch of surprisingly long screws to switch the part out, whereas Sanwa gate parts are clip-on affairs.
Someone in my local group is saying that the hrap 4 Kai has a bad pcb and "random input lag" and I have no idea what he's talking about.
I was thinking of getting one of these so I don't have to use the Ps3 te on ps4, and getting some silent buttons added. Is this dude confused or what.?
There's two different models of HRAP 4 on sale in the US at this point. The more recent model, which uses the newer Hayabusa buttons rather than Kuro's, has a new PCB which has xInput support for PC and apparently a much more responsive PCB.
That said, a lot of folks are suddenly putting a lot of stock in these difficult-to-entirely-quantify lag tests now that SFV is out. The differences we are talking about are probably completely inconsequential for most players, honestly (although the previous model HRAP4's sat toward the bottom of said testing tables. No-one as formally done the new HRAP4, so, naturally, there's confusion abound)
Basically, though, as long as you make sure you get the latest model HRAP 4, you are probably fine.
when you say the build quality is poor compared to the TE2+ in what way?
