The stick, I spent about 2-3 hours with it.
Super "NeoGAF Arcade Stick Thread" II TURBO
- Thread starter MarkMan
- Start date
He's probably not from the US.
Hellshingu
Member
spending the $30 to switch out the Hayabusa to JLF is a waste of money in my opinion. If the looseness is an issue just spend the $1 and throw a 2lb spring in it and you have one of the best, if not the best, sticks of all time.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Dominican Power
Member
Canadian prices
Are you planning on going to locals/tourneys with this stick? Or is it just to play at home? Why not a vlx? Looks like Lambtron is selling his.
I kinda want a fresh new stick as my 1st one, that's why
I don't plan on going to tourneys any soon, but I enjoy SFV online a lot, and if I start getting better with the stick I don't see why I wouldn't go to weeklies. Also, my DS4 is pissing me off real bad , my execution on it hit a barrier now
Also, arent VLX's like 300 usd? That's even more expensive here lol
Dominican Power
Member
Less than an hour is practically brand new.
$215 plus shipping.
That's actually a pretty sweet deal. If it were me, I'd go for it & use that stick as your at-home stick (unless you have super-strength & are willing to take it with you to majors).
That's a great deal...but I don't know anything about canadian money exchange rate stuff.
notworksafe
Member
Tekken I really like using Korean stick. Everything else JLF...though I am getting used to the optical I got and I am really digging it. Definitely takes a lot of time to learn to use it though.
that's like $3.50 american
hibachifinal
Member
new stick mod, korean lever (myoungshin), boobies, ass, sanwa buttons, noir layout
Alright, I'm done. I got my replacement TE2+ from Mad Catz (after having to pay for shipping myself) and guess what? It's faulty too. I think someone else in this thread was having the same issue, but now it sort of gets "stuck" if I hit down on the stick, and it continues to register down even if I let go. I put in another ticket on their support site to see if I have any refund options, though I seriously doubt it since I bought the stick from Amazon back in December.
I'll be ordering a Hori soon, and I'll never buy or recommend a MCZ stick again.
I'll be ordering a Hori soon, and I'll never buy or recommend a MCZ stick again.
sixteen-bit
Member
Damn, madcrapz for the lose. Might be cheaper to gut it and throw in a fight board PCB rather than send it back a few more times at your expense.
CountBlack
Member
Bought a new JLF and ball top for my stick.. hopefully it fixes the input glitches i've been having.
I also want to change my stick art but don't know how to :/. Is there a site that'll print out a picture specific for the TE2+ size?
This is why I'm reluctant in sending it into Madcatz only for them to not do anything worth while :/
I also want to change my stick art but don't know how to :/. Is there a site that'll print out a picture specific for the TE2+ size?
This is why I'm reluctant in sending it into Madcatz only for them to not do anything worth while :/
I get the feeling the issue isn't the stick itself, but who really knows.
I really love this madcatz case design. Plus I find it very comfortable to play on.
ShadowSoldier89
Member
I wouldnt do translucent unless you are doing LEDs or continuous artwork. Translucent red balltop probably would look good, though I would get a bubbletop style
Hm, then maybe I'll just reuse the white balltop/buttons from my now useless TE2+.
Hellshingu
Member
The new one I got last month seems to still be working fine. Although it took about 2 months or so for my old TE2+ to start constantly inputting L2 for no reason at all.
In a way, I'm kind of relieved my replacement was also a dud since I don't have to constantly worry about it randomly crapping out on me later on.
EDIT: Just bit the bullet on the HRAPV, and ordered a 2lb sanwa spring to go with it (I'm assuming the sanwa 2lbs spring is the correct one, right?). Are there any guides/videos on how to replace springs on a Hayabusa?
use the stick a while before replacing the springyou might like it...
I have a Kai, and I definitely don't like how loose it feels since it screws up my inputs pretty often.
well in that case, springs are piss easy to replace: remove the entire stick, pop the e-clip off the end opposite the ball top, slide the shaft out, swap the springs, reassemble
where do you buy these springs at?
bob_arctor
Tough_Smooth
The most annoying thing is getting the E clip off and then back on. Just make sure to take a pic of how I everything is assembled! Once the E clip comes off, everything wants to come apart. Anyway, there are vids.
So, uh... I just removed the buttons on my TE2+, and the notches on the side of the buttons that you press to slide the buttons out of the case cracked on (and I shit you not) all six of the white buttons meaning they can no longer securely click into place. And no, before you ask, I wasn't overly forceful or anything. What gives? Could these have just been old buttons that MCZ used that were poorly stored? Or is there a difference in material used on different colored buttons? Either way, looks like I'm going to have to buy a new set of buttons or get used to the Hayabusas.
Here's a picture to show you what I'm talking about:
Here's a picture to show you what I'm talking about:
sixteen-bit
Member
new stick mod, korean lever (myoungshin), boobies, ass, sanwa buttons, noir layout
Great work as always.
They're just easy to crack in my experience. I made a stick a while ago and would like to take everything out to put towards a new stick...but pretty sure most of the clips would crack in the process.
On the plus side, if the holes are tight enough the little protruding nubs can be enough to hold a button in place. I've had a hell of a time removing buttons cause those things holding on so tightly even when the clips are pushed in. I vaguely also recall a rubber band trick or something, where you put a rubber band (or whatever material) on the button against the underside panel surface to hold it in if necessary. Paper shim in the hole or other ghetto tricks would probably work too.
Huh, well that's frustrating.
bob_arctor
Tough_Smooth
Wow. That has never happened to me in all my times switching out buttons. That is some bizarre bad luck. On the plus side, you can now experiment with Seimitsu buttons if you wanted to! Also, translucent Sanwas are awesome--look great, feel great (better than regular Sanwas imo)--so take a look at those as well.
Edit: Oh, also try screw-in buttons if you are worried about the push-in clips cracking. Just an idea.
hikarutilmitt
Member
Unless it's there's not an option I'm pretty much screw-in for life. Snap-ins are nice and all for metal panels, but screw-in buttons hold just as well in the long run and they're more versatile and easier to work on.
Now if only Seimitsu made a purple PS-14-GN...
ShadowSoldier89
Member
Sanwa clipins are incredibly fragile. If the are only cracked you can put a dab of super glue on the crack while pulling the tab outward with a small flathead screwdriver. I've managed to fix two buttons this way.
bob_arctor
Tough_Smooth
Yeah, I've switched over to screw-ins as well. The only annoyance is a cramped space, so the Fightstick Pro was a pain for example to make sure every button was screwed in tightly.
Do you guys think screw ins would fit inside an hrap case?
Now I'm torn between translucent reds or the white screw ins.
EDIT: Also, how would you describe the difference in feel between Sanwas and Seimitsu buttons? I might as well consider all my options at this point.
sixteen-bit
Member
How are Seimitsu snap-ins by comparison? I think I've only used their screw-ins.
Noted
Rabid Dwarf 76
Member
I have the screw in sanwas in my hrap. They fit fine.
bob_arctor
Tough_Smooth
Seimitsu buttons are less snappy/hyper responsive and require more "push" but they are really good imo.