Super "NeoGAF Arcade Stick Thread" II TURBO

That is the most godlike sub-$200 Hori stick I've ever seen. That needs to get an American release.

Yeah,

Was kinda taking a wait-n-see approach since It seemed like the new generic version to release in the states. Maybe they are just sticking with the Kai models here.
 
So I just did an easy little mod on my own yellow-and-black PS1 Namco stick (pictured on previous page) and I wanted to make sure that the other novices among us were aware this could be done...

I've used this stick a whole bunch over the years, and over time, the lever became very loose, creating a huge dead zone. I opened it up today only to find that the design of the lever--obviously made by Hori--is identical to what they're still using in the newer models in the low-cost Fighting Stick line.

I just swapped the entire lever assembly--while keeping the original Omron microswitches--with one from a stock, lightly-used Fighting Stick 3. No soldering, 10 minutes, and it feels like a brand new stick. Heck, because of the superior microswitches, it feels better than it did in the original FS3. I love it. So, if yours has loosened up over the years, consider giving this a shot...

...so now I find myself actually wanting a spare Hori lever from a Fighting Stick, to replace the one I used. Anybody have one that's just lying around, perhaps from a mod project? Name your price.

Also, I've got two entire sets of MadCatz parts--one from a TvC stick, one from a 360 WWE BrawlStick--never used. A lever and 8 30mm snap-in buttons... the best knockoff Sanwa parts that MC has produced up until now. Anyone want to take them off my hands? $25 shipped for both sets sound fair? Or I'd trade them for Hori FS parts =)
 
So I just did an easy little mod on my own yellow-and-black PS1 Namco stick (pictured on previous page) and I wanted to make sure that the other novices among us were aware this could be done...

I've used this stick a whole bunch over the years, and over time, the lever became very loose, creating a huge dead zone. I opened it up today only to find that the design of the lever--obviously made by Hori--is identical to what they're still using in the newer models in the low-cost Fighting Stick line.

I just swapped the entire lever assembly--while keeping the original Omron microswitches--with one from a stock, lightly-used Fighting Stick 3. No soldering, 10 minutes, and it feels like a brand new stick. Heck, because of the superior microswitches, it feels better than it did in the original FS3. I love it. So, if yours has loosened up over the years, consider giving this a shot...

...so now I find myself actually wanting a spare Hori lever from a Fighting Stick, to replace the one I used. Anybody have one that's just lying around, perhaps from a mod project? Name your price.

Also, I've got two entire sets of MadCatz parts--one from a TvC stick, one from a 360 WWE BrawlStick--never used. A lever and 8 30mm snap-in buttons... the best knockoff Sanwa parts that MC has produced up until now. Anyone want to take them off my hands? $25 shipped for both sets sound fair? Or I'd trade them for Hori FS parts =)
Ha! Nice ProTip. I rarely use my Namco stick since it is so hard to find/expensive these days, in order to keep wear and tear to a minimum. I'll definitely keep your solution in mind.
 
They aren't as expensive as they used to be, thank goodness. Picked one up for $50 that works perfectly on eBay...though that may have been a bit of a fluke.
 
They aren't as expensive as they used to be, thank goodness. Picked one up for $50 that works perfectly on eBay...though that may have been a bit of a fluke.

I got mine for a little bit more than that, which is certainly still reasonable, but I'm thinking long term. They certainly aren't becoming more readily available, which will always drive the price up. In three or four years it may be a very different story. At this point it's like owning a classic car. Maintenance is a bitch, so you want to reduce wear and tear.
 
I think I'd be a lot less worried if I knew how to solder. As it stands right now, if one of the microswitches dies (which *does* happen eventually, right?) the stick becomes useless to me. But the more I learn about these, the simpler they seem...

I really do need to learn my way around a soldering iron one of these days!
 
Got my all Seimitsu QanBa Q4 RAF from ArcadeShock.

It's... Beautiful... :)

my setup! said:

Very, very nice stick. Only disappointment is that it doesn't work on Gradius V PS2 (on by backwards compatible fat PS3)
 
Got my all Seimitsu QanBa Q4 RAF from ArcadeShock.

It's... Beautiful... :)

Very, very nice stick. Only disappointment is that it doesn't work on Gradius V PS2 (on by backwards compatible fat PS3)

Very nice. I just started using a very similar stick for my shooters. A bit different feeling from the EX-SE but nice and snappy!
 
59501_10151188431066736_908546931_n.jpg
Thoughts? Still in development. Will send it to Art's Hobbies when its finished.
 
Have a question about the PS360+ board, for any of those here who own one. I've got it updated to 1.3 firmware.

Using the RJ45 jack, I've managed to get it running with the 360 just fine. I also bought a PS2 cable so I could use the stick with my retro consoles via JoyPro converters. My connection is RJ45 jack->RJ45 PS2 cable->JoyPro->Saturn/SNES, but nothing seems to work.

In fact, the PS1/PS2 cord won't work with the PS1, and neither will the Dreamcast cable. The only console it seems to work with is the 360 (via the RJ45->USB cable). Is there a button combination to force another mode that I need to input?

Update: Apparently there is a way to force PSx and Dreamcast modes. Unfortunately, they do not work either. Occasionally, the PS1 will act as if I'd pressed the X button once, but will do no more. The Dreamcast still does not do anything. I bought the cables from Focus Attack, is it possible that they're both faulty? I also cannot seem to enter configuration mode, though it continues to play nicely with the 360 and PC. Oi, I'm really regretting mauling that Omni Aracde Stick 3 for this.
 
Have a question about the PS360+ board, for any of those here who own one. I've got it updated to 1.3 firmware.

Using the RJ45 jack, I've managed to get it running with the 360 just fine. I also bought a PS2 cable so I could use the stick with my retro consoles via JoyPro converters. My connection is RJ45 jack->RJ45 PS2 cable->JoyPro->Saturn/SNES, but nothing seems to work.

In fact, the PS1/PS2 cord won't work with the PS1, and neither will the Dreamcast cable. The only console it seems to work with is the 360 (via the RJ45->USB cable). Is there a button combination to force another mode that I need to input?

Update: Apparently there is a way to force PSx and Dreamcast modes. Unfortunately, they do not work either. Occasionally, the PS1 will act as if I'd pressed the X button once, but will do no more. The Dreamcast still does not do anything. I bought the cables from Focus Attack, is it possible that they're both faulty? I also cannot seem to enter configuration mode, though it continues to play nicely with the 360 and PC. Oi, I'm really regretting mauling that Omni Aracde Stick 3 for this.

I would check the wiring on the rest of the stick, actually. While it's possible that both of the cables could be crimped wrong (they're actually easy to make...) I would check the internals again, first.
 
Seriously considering dual modding a stick myself - I have a Madcatz SFxT Pro stick, which particular pcb would you guys recommend?
 
I would check the wiring on the rest of the stick, actually. While it's possible that both of the cables could be crimped wrong (they're actually easy to make...) I would check the internals again, first.

This is my first stick mod, so I might've unknowingly jumped straight into the deep end. The rest of the stick's wiring seems to be fine, and if you use the RJ45->USB cable, it works perfectly with my PS3, PC, and 360; you'd never think anything was wrong. It's when I switch cables with the PS2/Dreamcast that there's no response.

Actually, the P1 and P4 LEDs briefly blink once when I plug it into the PS1, so it's detecting that it's being plugged into something. Sometimes the player LEDs cycle endlessly when it's plugged in, and I have to reset it a few times to get it working under USB again. There was a similar post about this on Shoryuken, but nobody seemed to have an answer. I think, if anything, it's the cable, but I'm not sure what to try beyond buying another one. Is this a known issue with the PS360+?
 
So me and my brother have a bet on whether or not our x360 sticks will be supported on the next Xbox. Supports needs to be day1, with no adapters.

I say no way. MS would be screwing 3rd parties on selling you new sticks next generation, and the button layouts will likely be different (like the guide button perhaps).

Winner gets a new arcade stick :-)

What's the consensus on this?
 
So me and my brother have a bet on whether or not our x360 sticks will be supported on the next Xbox. Supports needs to be day1, with no adapters.

I say no way. MS would be screwing 3rd parties on selling you new sticks next generation, and the button layouts will likely be different (like the guide button perhaps).

Winner gets a new arcade stick :-)

What's the consensus on this?

Haha, nice bet.

Although you DO make some good points...

I'll be suprised if 720 doesn't have backwards compatibility with the 360 controllers, including any joysticks.

It's more likely the 720 will have full game BC than the PS4, just because of the hardware architecture. It would be odd if they had BC for games, but not controllers. I think MS is going to heavily leverage their 360 install base this go around, and BC will be a part of that.

But who knows. Maybe they announce a new console with an insanely different control scheme and everything changes.

Thoughts? Still in development. Will send it to Art's Hobbies when its finished.

Looks nice! A bit busy, but cool.

Does Art Hobbies print these print these out or are you just buying the plexi there?
 
How's the Korean Omni stick? Is the circular gate better than what the US arcades used to have? I played with a MAS System stick until SFIV and got used to square gate.
 
Hey folks. What's the current rundown on US / Euro style sticks these days? I know that everything is pretty much Japanese parts currently, but I already have my LS-32 stick, and a guy at work was giving away an old sturdy two player box for free that I nabbed. I could probably convert it to use Japanese parts, but it's all drilled out for US sticks and buttons and that would take a ton of work and I currently don't have access to my wood tools. Plus with a two player setup the price for US parts seems like it would be a good deal cheaper than Japanese.

Does anyone still even use US parts? Poking around a bit it seems like iL Eurostick might be the best current US stick, with iL Competition convex buttons. Considering starting this build, but kinda worried that I might not really like the final results.

edit: Oh, and a second quick question. Previously on sticks I used a gamestop branded Madcatz 360 control pad for the pad hack, which worked pretty well. But will all the deal on the Madcatz SFxT fightpads I was thinking those might be really good for padhacking, since they have no sticks and no analog triggers already. Are they good for that?
 
Just need someone to let me know if the OBSF-24 is supposed to spin/move/rotate in the HORI REAL ARCADE PRO VX / V3?

I just swapped out my buttons and stick and everything seems to be fine except the start button OBSF-24 is rotating now and isn't solidly locked in like the other buttons... I can't remember that it did this before but perhaps it did? I tried to look if there is anyway to properly lock it in other than just snapping it into the case I can't see anything.

help!?
 
Can anyone tell me if the stick that came with Tekken 6 is easily enhanced? I'd rather not go crazy with 100+ stick at the moment. Although Pad doesn't seem to be working great for me. >_>
 
Can anyone tell me if the stick that came with Tekken 6 is easily enhanced? I'd rather not go crazy with 100+ stick at the moment. Although Pad doesn't seem to be working great for me. >_>

If you're playing tekken you may just want to stick with the pad. Pads seem a lot more popular for that game than the rest.

edit: to answer your question - no, the tekken 6 stick is not easy to mod. it's also wireless.
 
If you're playing tekken you may just want to stick with the pad. Pads seem a lot more popular for that game than the rest.

Well I don't need it just for Tekken. I'm playing Ultimate Marvel, P4A and some other stuff.

edit: to answer your question - no, the tekken 6 stick is not easy to mod. it's also wireless.

Yeah, I bought it at the time because it was wireless. Seems everyone prefers corded, which I understand. I'll just have to keep an eye out for something good then.
 
Hello All,

First time poster on this forum. Great thread here! My apologies if it's been mentioned already, wanted to bring up that Newegg.com has the Hori Dead or Alive 5 Arcade Stick for $59.99. You can also get it with free shipping and for first time customers there is a NEWCUSTOMER promo code for an additional $10 off.
 
Hello All,

First time poster on this forum. Great thread here! My apologies if it's been mentioned already, wanted to bring up that Newegg.com has the Hori Dead or Alive 5 Arcade Stick for $59.99. You can also get it with free shipping and for first time customers there is a NEWCUSTOMER promo code for an additional $10 off.

ah crud, ps3 version out of stock. oh well, i prolly didn't need another stick anyway......... i guess :(
 
The Hori TT2 stick seems like a stick that very few were made of. Went fast OOP around the world.

I never got one (probably gonna regret it down the line)
 
Random question:

Most (all?) Hori sticks I've seen have the following button layout (using 360 names for ths example but PS3 is the same I believe)

Code:
B -  X -  Y - Lb
A - Lt - Rt - Rb


But my Qanba Q4 is laid out like:

Code:
X - Y - Rb - Lb
A - B - Rt - Lt


Luckily, most every game I play with a stick, I can remap the buttons in the options. I think I'm just going to open her up and rewire the buttons to be like the Hori sticks.

Any reason not to do so?
 
Luckily, most every game I play with a stick, I can remap the buttons in the options. I think I'm just going to open her up and rewire the buttons to be like the Hori sticks.

Any reason not to do so?

The latter format is designed so that you can drop into Street Fighter 2/4 with the game's default controls without having to remap at all, similar to the first run of SF4 sticks from MadCatz. Since then, Microsoft tightened down on arcade stick button layouts and all licensed sticks are required to use the former layout as well as coloring A/B/X/Y.
 
The latter format is designed so that you can drop into Street Fighter 2/4 with the game's default controls without having to remap at all, similar to the first run of SF4 sticks from MadCatz. Since then, Microsoft tightened down on arcade stick button layouts and all licensed sticks are required to use the former layout as well as coloring A/B/X/Y.

Makes sense why I didn't get what what going on... I don't play Street Fighter! (At least not more than a few times in the last decade) Got 4 Arcade recently, but never opened it as I have so much else to play.

Thanks StarCreator!
 
That Microsoft specification always annoys me a bit as honestly none of those layouts have ever made the most sense to me. Plus the colored buttons can be real eyesores on some stick designs. I made my custom stick like this:

Code:
X    Y    LB    LT
A    B    RB    RT

The big advantage of that layout is that precedence is given to the two digital inputs (LB and RB) over the two analog inputs (LT and RT). Really doesn't matter that much on the 360, but since I use my stick on the PC a ton it's much easier to map in buttons that show up as normal gamepad buttons (LB and RB) as opposed to buttons that show up as max or min values on an analog Z-axis (LT and RT). Does mean that I have to remap for most games though.
 
Is there any documentation of different games "correct, as designed, arcade button layouts" that I can look at?

I know personal preference and comfort play the biggest role when mapping a custom control scheme, but I always like to try to learn a game "as intended" first.
 
Has anybody used the Cerberus pcb as well?
It seemed like the nicest out of the bunch I looked at so I just ordered it the other day. I should have it tomorrow and I'll post my impressions tomorrow.

Now here's my dilemma, I want to mod my one stick that's already opened that I tried installing HBFS-30 buttons into. I can't get the buttons to work and they're stuck in there...

wat do??
 
Is there any documentation of different games "correct, as designed, arcade button layouts" that I can look at?

I know personal preference and comfort play the biggest role when mapping a custom control scheme, but I always like to try to learn a game "as intended" first.

Whenever I configure a joystick, I always like to look at the game's arcade flyer, or arcade version home page. They will usually list the button layout on the system page. If there is no flyer, or the game never got an arcade release, I go with personal preference.
 
So I was just gearing for a new stick build and I keep seeing all these Orbis / Durango threads popping up on the main page. I have to say, I've not really been following all the next gen talk, but I'm a bit scared that this is going to be a really stick unfriendly generation. WiiU has the touch screen in it, sounds like the Orbis controller has a pretty good chance of having a touch screen and move built in, Durango is pretty much guaranteed to have some type of Kinect and I'd not be surprised to see touchscreen or smartglass integration there as well.

I don't doubt that there will still be some stick friendly games, (SHMUPs, Fighters) but there are lots of non-obvious stick games that will be really temped to tack on some type of touch screen support and won't be playable with a stick. Stuff like Rayman Origins was actually a really fun game to play with a stick, a nice tight platformer with digital movement speed. But it seems pretty likely that a game like that will probably come stuffed with touch screen / move / kinect specific support and won't work on a plain old stick. Plus there is a possible chance that even new UIs / Menus might require new buttons over the current set, meaning that controller can't even be rigged up until a new gen of PCBs or padhacks get figured out.

Maybe that's too depressing an outlook, I'd actually not be totally surprised if both Sony and MS still support PS3 and 360 pads next gen much like the WiiU Pro controller as a traditional option alongside any new controls. And as long as that is the case things will at least be a little easier in the transition. But in retrospect I do kinda wish that I'd waited to buy the PCBs for my current project until later (picked up a couple of FightPads for a 360 build) because I'd hate to do the work for that only to find out that 360 Pads won't work with Durango and that type of info might as well be announced before I finish my current project.
 
Now that we've standardized on USB as an interface, and USB isn't going away anytime soon...I believe it'd be ridiculous for the new consoles to drop that in favor of something else, and I also believe that things going 100% wireless is unlikely (outside of Nintendo, who did that already, but they're always in their own little world). In the (imho likely) event that becomes true: to drop support for the previous console's controllers when they're already using the same USB would just be silly.

I am going forward under the assumption that a cross-platform 360/PS3 joystick now will work without issue on the next Xbox/PS consoles. If they prove me wrong, then ... oh well, an excuse to buy another joystick. lol

Also...if I'm going to develop a traditional-looking fighting game at this point, I should know enough about my audience to realize that they want to be able to play with a fight stick, and that touchscreen/motion control gimmicks do not belong. I don't think traditional-looking fighting games are going to disappear just because new platforms are being released, so I wouldn't worry too much about that, either.

on button layouts:

I'm actually a fan of the traditional Hori layout, and have rewired some Mad Catz sticks to use it, because I like the ergonomics of having the "1" button under the "2" button, and the "3" and "4" buttons off to the right. This is probably due to the fact that I play a lot of arcade-style games that use 4 buttons or less. I'm also a fan of the 360-colored buttons, and usually purchase parts appropriately to preserve them, because I like knowing where the buttons are without ever having to glance at the labels. But maybe I'm just an oddball.
 
I am going forward under the assumption that a cross-platform 360/PS3 joystick now will work without issue on the next Xbox/PS consoles. If they prove me wrong, then ... oh well, an excuse to buy another joystick. lol

Also...if I'm going to develop a traditional-looking fighting game at this point, I should know enough about my audience to realize that they want to be able to play with a fight stick, and that touchscreen/motion control gimmicks do not belong. I don't think traditional-looking fighting games are going to disappear just because new platforms are being released, so I wouldn't worry too much about that, either.

Yeah, I'm not really worried about having Street Fighter 5 be a touch screen game. Just more the marginal games, ones that you might not always think of as "fight stick games" tossing in gimmicks that make them unplayable on a stick. The more complex the overall control options for systems are the more tempted that develops get to sneak in a little extra funk. Plus UI functions can get a bit odd (guide buttons, PS buttons and whatnot) whenever a new generational leap comes about.

I guess on the plus side for the joysticks that I've built I've had to put some time into padhacking, but most the costs are in the physical components and building the case, so I can always upgrade to new padhacks or PCBs if need be. I'd actually love it if Microsoft would drop the security chip requirements for controllers so they would be easier to make multiconsole PCBs, but I guess that's not really too likely.
 
Looks great, I think it could do without the logos in the bottom right corner, unless they are games related to Strider, just my 2¢.
They're not. They're just games I like.
I'll think of what I can put in their place. I'm kinda anal about empty space on the art. Not one for subtlety.
 
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