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[Babaganoush]

Would I be crazy to get qled over oled? They're both the same price at Best Buy right now. I just do not feel like dealing with burn in or retention. I watch a lot, or I should say leave my tv on a lot for sports and news channels. I know oleds picture quality is unbeatable, but is qled that much worse? Yes,I know qled is Samsungs cheap way of making led seem nicer.

 

[Chris_Rivera]

Would I be crazy to get qled over oled? They're both the same price at Best Buy right now. I just do not feel like dealing with burn in or retention. I watch a lot, or I should say leave my tv on a lot for sports and news channels. I know oleds picture quality is unbeatable, but is qled that much worse? Yes,I know qled is Samsungs cheap way of making led seem nicer.

If you tend to leave your tv on the same news channel or static image for hours and hours at a time, day in day out, then OLED might be a risk for you. Otherwise, it’s much better.

 

[Madness]

Would I be crazy to get qled over oled? They're both the same price at Best Buy right now. I just do not feel like dealing with burn in or retention. I watch a lot, or I should say leave my tv on a lot for sports and news channels. I know oleds picture quality is unbeatable, but is qled that much worse? Yes,I know qled is Samsungs cheap way of making led seem nicer.

Why you would get any real Samsung set in 2017 aside from their very top flagship I don't know. Even the Samsung Q9 etc. Either get the flagship Sony sets fot LED/LCD or go OLED. And my issue with these types of questions is that there is no mention of size, your budget or what they are priced at etc.

 

[ApharmdX]

Would I be crazy to get qled over oled? They're both the same price at Best Buy right now. I just do not feel like dealing with burn in or retention. I watch a lot, or I should say leave my tv on a lot for sports and news channels. I know oleds picture quality is unbeatable, but is qled that much worse? Yes,I know qled is Samsungs cheap way of making led seem nicer.

The Sony flagship LCDs are better than Samsung's. Go that route. You'll be happier. what size are you looking at? 65"? Look at the Z9D maybe.

 

[Ashhong]

Nice!

Weird that Deep Colour didn't prompt a reboot though. When I change it from On to Off (or vice versa) it asks me if I want to reboot to apply the change.

For some reason that's the only way to manually restart the TV. LG pls.

Just ran into the same “no audio on hdmi” on my B7. Turning off the deep color only says that there might be an issue if it doesn’t support it, but definitely doesn’t reboot. The screen never even goes black.

I fixed it by turning off quick start and then turning the tv off and on.

A funny thing I noticed during this is that the slight clicking sound is gone when I turn my tv on or off. You guys know what I’m talking about? I think it’s the power supply? I know I used to hear it but not anymore

 

[Babaganoush]

Why you would get any real Samsung set in 2017 aside from their very top flagship I don't know. Even the Samsung Q9 etc. Either get the flagship Sony sets fot LED/LCD or go OLED. And my issue with these types of questions is that there is no mention of size, your budget or what they are priced at etc.

sorry, looking for a 55, budget ~$2gs. I have a sony now, but it's only 1080p and don't really care for it. As for why would I get anything Samsung? Idk I have a galaxy phone and it holds up, so I figure their TV's can't be that bad.

 

[Arkanius]

sorry, looking for a 55, budget ~$2gs. I have a sony now, but it's only 1080p and don't really care for it. As for why would I get anything Samsung? Idk I have a galaxy phone and it holds up, so I figure their TV's can't be that bad.

Apparently Samsung has dropped the ball in TV quality last year

 

[GinoFelino]

Apparently Samsung has dropped the ball in TV quality last year

Not entirely

Quality has stagnated from last year, but the prices have gone way up

 

[Yawnny]

Would I be crazy to get qled over oled? They're both the same price at Best Buy right now. I just do not feel like dealing with burn in or retention. I watch a lot, or I should say leave my tv on a lot for sports and news channels. I know oleds picture quality is unbeatable, but is qled that much worse? Yes,I know qled is Samsungs cheap way of making led seem nicer.

To chime in regarding my experience with image retention: I've been playing games with huds (ie; including bright red health bars such as Withcer 3) ever since I got my B6 OLED.. I've gone up and made lunch, played for 8 hours straight, etc.. Still not a smidgen of image retention.

The screen auto-dims after not using for about 5 minutes and there's an 'auto wipe' to shift the OLED pixels to reduce the chance of image retention, with these two features in place it seems one would be hard-pressed to run in to this issue (with the LG B6 anyway, can't say for certain about the 'features' to mitigate this for other panels).

Not saying it's not possible, but I've done heavy use with it ranging from watching YouTube videos, Twitch Speedrunners (which have livesliplit running which is a static sidebar with often bright colors), Video games with bright hubs, Movies with black bars, etc..

Still 100% perfect panel to date.

 

[Babaganoush]

To chime in regarding my experience with image retention: I've been playing games with huds (ie; including bright red health bars such as Withcer 3) ever since I got my B6 OLED.. I've gone up and made lunch, played for 8 hours straight, etc.. Still not a smidgen of image retention.

The screen auto-dims after not using for about 5 minutes and there's an 'auto wipe' to shift the OLED pixels to reduce the chance of image retention, with these two features in place it seems one would be hard-pressed to run in to this issue (with the LG B6 anyway, can't say for certain about the 'features' to mitigate this for other panels).

Not saying it's not possible, but I've done heavy use with it ranging from watching YouTube videos, Twitch Speedrunners (which have livesliplit running which is a static sidebar with often bright colors), Video games with bright hubs, Movies with black bars, etc..

Still 100% perfect panel to date.

I have a Panasonic plasma, which maybe is close to oled with how burn in and retention. Safe to assume oleds are better? It'll always be on the back of my mind, but there's no denying the picture quality. Thanks for your input and for selling me on the lg. It's only $1,799 and I get 150$ best buy gift card.

 

[RedlineRonin]

I have a Panasonic plasma, which maybe is close to oled with how burn in and retention. Safe to assume oleds are better? It'll always be on the back of my mind, but there's no denying the picture quality. Thanks for your input and for selling me on the lg. It's only $1,799 and I get 150$ best buy gift card.

imho they aren't close.

I burned in the HUD from Overwatch on my 55ST60 Panasonic plasma. I've yet to have even a whiff of IR, let alone actual burn in, on my C7.

E: and the Panasonic was professionally calibrated, not in Vivid or torch mode.

 

[Mrbob]

In the same "65-inch Sony X900 or 55-inch LG B7 OLED" discussion, I'm also wondering how much weight to put for how the LG supports Dolby Vision while the Sony supports HDR10.

LG supports Dolby Vision and HDR10. Sony just HDR10 except for the x930e which is getting Dolby Vision support alongside it's HDR10 support.

 

[e90Mark]

Would love some insight. Have a dark living room mainly used at night. Sit around 8 feet from TV. I can afford either a 65 Sony 900 or 55 lg c/b7. Main use is mix of Netflix, YouTube, and gaming. No cable TV. Any recommendations from anyone with both or who also has this dilemma? Read rtings review on both and still can't decide. Thanks

I sit about 12' from my 55" C6.

Just wanted to say it won't be tiny at 8'. It could always be bigger, sure, but it's definitely not bad from 8'.

So I'm about to move in with my fiance and her living room has about a 10-11ft gap between the TV spot and the couch which means 4k will be worthless to me.

Any tips on finding a 65ish 1080p screen for a good price?

Those charts are misleading. You will definitely be able to tell the difference between 1080P and 2160P content at 10', if your eyes are normal.

Really wish people would stop using those. HDR is worth the upgrade to 4K, guys.

 

[RedlineRonin]

HDR is worth the upgrade to 4K, guys.

+1

 

[DangerMouse]

Was fixated on buying a new tv especially after doing lots of research but think I'll wait for Black Friday now. Only a month.

Probably worth the wait especially if you think you can bump up to the next level of sets, into the mid-range sets, with Black Friday sales for better picture quality and better HDR.

I think you were right about the model numbering for lack of responses as there didn't seem to be an LG UJ670V/UJ6700 listed on Rtings, only the Sony one you were comparing with, only saw it on LG's own page and UK Amazon with those reviews from those who bought it but I guess it'd probably rate somewhere in between the 6300 and the 7700 unless something turned out weird with that model. Both of them average sets and were still compared against similar sets so all three of those are probably kind of similar according to Rtings.

 

[Fitts]

Would I be crazy to get qled over oled? They're both the same price at Best Buy right now. I just do not feel like dealing with burn in or retention. I watch a lot, or I should say leave my tv on a lot for sports and news channels. I know oleds picture quality is unbeatable, but is qled that much worse? Yes,I know qled is Samsungs cheap way of making led seem nicer.

I would never in good conscience recommend a Q series and it has nothing to do with picture quality or even value. I can’t recommend them due to their powered one connect box that often runs much warmer than I believe it should.

In one instance, I returned to a job site the day after installation because the TV had stopped recognizing the one connect. I touched the box, and it was so hot that the plastic had softened. I replaced it and they haven’t encountered an issue since. Still, every single one I’ve ever installed gets hotter than I’m comfortable with.

*This only applies to one connects that require their own power cord. Samsungs with non-powered one connects are fine.

imho they aren't close.

I burned in the HUD from Overwatch on my 55ST60 Panasonic plasma. I've yet to have even a whiff of IR, let alone actual burn in, on my C7.

E: and the Panasonic was professionally calibrated, not in Vivid or torch mode.

The ST60s were generally some of the most retentive panels I’d ever come across. On the other hand, the S60s were some of the least retentive panels that I’ve worked with — superior to any OLED I’ve encountered thus far.

It isn’t as simple as stating OLED is superior to plasma in this respect or vice versa.

 

[Ashhong]

DOnt think I had any retention on my Panasonic S1 after like 8 years and tons of twitch watching. Hoping the same for my B7

 

[Haint]

I have a Panasonic plasma, which maybe is close to oled with how burn in and retention. Safe to assume oleds are better? It'll always be on the back of my mind, but there's no denying the picture quality. Thanks for your input and for selling me on the lg. It's only $1,799 and I get 150$ best buy gift card.

The 2017 LG OLED's are VASTLY superior to late model Plasma's in regards to image retention. You would see ghost HUD's on a PDP's within a couple hours, at 30+ or 50+ hours it would be clear enough read the HUD text on busy content. An ~equal amount of different content would pretty much always dissipate and wipe it away over time. With the '17 OLED's it seems to take 100's+ hours for a ghost HUD outline to begin to appear, but it remains unknown whether it will dissipate over time like PDP's.

The ST60s were generally some of the most retentive panels I'd ever come across. On the other hand, the S60s were some of the least retentive panels that I've worked with — superior to any OLED I've encountered thus far.

It isn't as simple as stating OLED is superior to plasma in this respect or vice versa.

I am pretty confident the S60/S64 was a SmartTV rebadge of the 15th Generation panels found in the U50/U54 as they had their foot out the PDP door and were not investing in new 2D panels at that time. IIRC the Panasonic executive that used to post on HighdefJunkies confirmed this at the time. I gamed on a U54 for 3 years and can say image retention was very bad set to a 40fL windowed white peak, bright HUD's would be visible within a couple hours. There may have been some internal tweaks to the S60/64, but the improvements you're alluding to seem pretty far fetched for nothing short of a total overhaul. I'm not sure if there was a "panel lottery" in regards to IR, I owned several Panasonic's over the years and they were all pretty much the same in this respect.

 

[Madness]

sorry, looking for a 55, budget ~$2gs. I have a sony now, but it's only 1080p and don't really care for it. As for why would I get anything Samsung? Idk I have a galaxy phone and it holds up, so I figure their TV's can't be that bad.

I also own/owned several Galaxy devices and even own a 65" Samsung KS8000, but their televisions are surpassed this year, and every Sony set it better than their counterpart Samsung set. QLED is marketing mumbo jumbo. Otherwise either go OLED or high end Sony in terms of LED/LCD. With that budget, you may as well go OLED, or go for something like a 65" X900E. It isn't a question of brands but what is the best for the price. In 2017 Samsung raised prices and yet aside from improved color accuracy, their sets were all worse where it mattered ie. Deep blacks, more nit brightness and sustained brightness.

 

[MrPink93485]

Just got my OLED in and everything seems to be working great so far. Do you need to 'break in' the TV? If so how to best go about doing so? How long?

 

[Fitts]

I am pretty confident the S60/S64 was a SmartTV rebadge of the 15th Generation panels found in the U50/U54 as they had their foot out the PDP door and were not investing in new 2D panels at that time. IIRC the Panasonic executive that used to post on HighdefJunkies confirmed this at the time. I gamed on a U54 for 3 years and can say image retention was very bad set to a 40fL windowed white peak, bright HUD's would be visible within a couple hours. There may have been some internal tweaks to the S60/64, but the improvements you're alluding to seem pretty far fetched for nothing short of a total overhaul. I'm not sure if there was a "panel lottery" in regards to IR, I owned several Panasonic's over the years and they were all pretty much the same in this respect.

It's funny you mention the U50 as I have a 50" in my living room right now and it's nigh bulletproof. I also have an S60. (65") I wouldn't doubt if the panel was carried over, but "internal tweaks" are a certainty as they measure very differently.

I find it odd that you encountered issues with your U54 as that doesn't mirror what I've experienced with my own and others, but won't dispute it. I can tell you that I play hours upon hours of Tekken 7 on these TVs (including about a 20-30 hour stretch on the S60 without displaying any other content if Steam is to be believed) and have observed no retention. (I'm sure you're familiar with how... err... garish the HUD is)

EDIT: Worst plasma I've personally owned in terms of retention was a G10 post-MLL rise. What an awful TV. Messed up voltages (as they all had that gen) and a hilarious THX profile out of the box. (that Panasonic never admitted to and quietly fixed later but never issued a proper update for older runs) I couldn't replace it with a 101FD fast enough.

 

[WiseguyMVP]

Moderwize on YouTube claiming there may be a huge one day sale on some Sony sets tomorrow. Might be time to get a 900e if the price is right.
https://youtu.be/mWQiqCMWCpQ

 

[Kyoufu]

Just got my OLED in and everything seems to be working great so far. Do you need to 'break in' the TV? If so how to best go about doing so? How long?

Not really, no.

 

[GreenMonkey]

Would I be crazy to get qled over oled? They're both the same price at Best Buy right now. I just do not feel like dealing with burn in or retention. I watch a lot, or I should say leave my tv on a lot for sports and news channels. I know oleds picture quality is unbeatable, but is qled that much worse? Yes,I know qled is Samsungs cheap way of making led seem nicer.

Personally if you're one of those people that leave the TV on for background noise kinda people (especially news) that is the only thing I would be nervous about burn-in on.

imho they aren't close.

I burned in the HUD from Overwatch on my 55ST60 Panasonic plasma. I've yet to have even a whiff of IR, let alone actual burn in, on my C7.

E: and the Panasonic was professionally calibrated, not in Vivid or torch mode.

I have a 2010/2011 Panny GT25. I would have burned Gears of War or Gears 3 or Dark Souls into the thing if it was gonna burn. I tend to play hours and hours of the same game for many hours before I get bored of it. Or hell Overwatch in the 6 months I played it on it.

Never got anything beyond temp. image retention. It is the kids / wife TV upstairs now.

 

[holygeesus]

To chime in regarding my experience with image retention: I've been playing games with huds (ie; including bright red health bars such as Withcer 3) ever since I got my B6 OLED.. I've gone up and made lunch, played for 8 hours straight, etc.. Still not a smidgen of image retention.

The screen auto-dims after not using for about 5 minutes and there's an 'auto wipe' to shift the OLED pixels to reduce the chance of image retention, with these two features in place it seems one would be hard-pressed to run in to this issue (with the LG B6 anyway, can't say for certain about the 'features' to mitigate this for other panels).

Not saying it's not possible, but I've done heavy use with it ranging from watching YouTube videos, Twitch Speedrunners (which have livesliplit running which is a static sidebar with often bright colors), Video games with bright hubs, Movies with black bars, etc..

Still 100% perfect panel to date.

I've been using my B6 in every scenario imaginable for nigh on 17 months now without issue.

 

[Haint]

It's funny you mention the U50 as I have a 50" in my living room right now and it's nigh bulletproof. I also have an S60. (65") I wouldn't doubt if the panel was carried over, but "internal tweaks" are a certainty as they measure very differently.

I find it odd that you encountered issues with your U54 as that doesn't mirror what I've experienced with my own and others, but won't dispute it. I can tell you that I play hours upon hours of Tekken 7 on these TVs (including about a 20-30 hour stretch on the S60 without displaying any other content if Steam is to be believed) and have observed no retention. (I'm sure you're familiar with how... err... garish the HUD is)

EDIT: Worst plasma I've personally owned in terms of retention was a G10 post-MLL rise. What an awful TV. Messed up voltages (as they all had that gen) and a hilarious THX profile out of the box. (that Panasonic never admitted to and quietly fixed later but never issued a proper update for older runs) I couldn't replace it with a 101FD fast enough.

How bright would you say you ran yours? 40-45fL was pretty much as bright as the 60" U would go in Cinema mode. It's quite possible (if not probable) IR increases exponentially with light output, where by 30fL may be really resistive while 40+fL is really prone. Either that, or there was a panel lottery in susceptibility. Even with several 1000's of hours of use, most recently putting 60+ hours into Nioh (which had an omni present HUD), it took several weeks to wear away the IR. This wasn't non-stop Nioh either, I had more hours of mixed content while playing it than I did game time. Fun fact, I had a G10 as well and my AVS handle is Orta, which you may recognize as the progenitor of the mega rising MLL thread.

 

[Arkanius]

Guys, would the scanline effect on RetroArch and other emulators (SNES Mini) fuck up an OLED display? Most scanline effects are not pure black
Other question, how probably are that the 2018 sets come with HDMI 2.1 (For the VRR)

I rather start building my system with HDMI 2.1 which is more future proof, but if it is far away, I rather not wait. If you keep waiting, you don't live the tech

 

[GinoFelino]

Guys, would the scanline effect on RetroArch and other emulators (SNES Mini) fuck up an OLED display? Most scanline effects are not pure black
Other question, how probably are that the 2018 sets come with HDMI 2.1 (For the VRR)

I rather start building my system with HDMI 2.1 which is more future proof, but if it is far away, I rather not wait. If you keep waiting, you don't live the tech

Very. However, I'm unsure whether VRR will make the cut in 2018. Maybe if AMD is smart enough to cut a Freesync deal with one of the TV manufacturers.

 

[spyshagg]

OLED in dark room has blown my mind recently, games and movies look too good on it.

Yes.

Now days when I go see a movie at the cinema, I always say "can't wait to see this on my oled".

 

[Drama Zed Nod]

just got my 2017 LG OLED, and after a few hours of set up with my av receiver and ps4 pro. i think i'm up and running.

It's very odd that when it detects HDR content it changes the picture mode to one of five seperate HDR picture modes.

What modes to people use for say HDR Netflix? An HDR Game? and movies that are not HDR, non HDR games?

 

[The Hamburglar]

Probably worth the wait especially if you think you can bump up to the next level of sets, into the mid-range sets, with Black Friday sales for better picture quality and better HDR.

I think you were right about the model numbering for lack of responses as there didn't seem to be an LG UJ670V/UJ6700 listed on Rtings, only the Sony one you were comparing with, only saw it on LG's own page and UK Amazon with those reviews from those who bought it but I guess it'd probably rate somewhere in between the 6300 and the 7700 unless something turned out weird with that model. Both of them average sets and were still compared against similar sets so all three of those are probably kind of similar according to Rtings.

yeah I ended up researching the US version and then finding the UK equivalent. The LG ones we both mentioned seem terrible for picture quality. Only good for input lag.

The samsung MU700 (uk mu6400) seems like a decent shout for £500 then again the KS8000 is £800.

 

[Dave_6]

HDR standard for everything except games. Then obviously HDR game mode for games that support HDR. I personally use ISF Dark for any SDR content.

Minus game mode, I have been using these settings: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HXwFi3E1K0g&t=66s

For the game modes, I've been using these or variations of these: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nXx9DSuY3hs&t=308s

Always set color gamut to normal when possible too.

Of course this all just what I personally use.

 

[Smokey]

HDR standard for everything except games. Then obviously HDR game mode for games that support HDR. I personally use ISF Dark for any SDR content.

Minus game mode, I have been using these settings: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HXwFi3E1K0g&t=66s

For the game modes, I've been using these or variations of these: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nXx9DSuY3hs&t=308s

Always set color gamut to normal when possible too.

Of course this all just what I personally use.

"Normal" is actually wide color gamut when using HDR, and "Wide" is blown out saturation? Referring to the OLEDs here to be clear.

 

[Dave_6]

"Normal" is actually wide color gamut when using HDR, and "Wide" is blown out saturation? Referring to the OLEDs here to be clear.

Yes, or at least that's what I've gathered.

 

[GinoFelino]

"Normal" is actually wide color gamut when using HDR, and "Wide" is blown out saturation? Referring to the OLEDs here to be clear.

Yes, or at least that's what I've gathered.

Wait what?

That can't be right

That's how it is for SDR, not HDR

 

[Jigolo]

i thought it was normal is rec 709 color space and wide is rec 2020

 

[Smokey]

Yes, or at least that's what I've gathered.

Wait what?

That can't be right

That's how it is for SDR, not HDR

And here's why I brought it up!

I think it was Digital Foundry that said something about it.

 

[Kyoufu]

You want it on Normal for both SDR and HDR.

 

[Smokey]

Starting at 6:40. This is HDR Game Mode but he mentions UHD BluRay as well.

 

[ApharmdX]

EDIT: Worst plasma I've personally owned in terms of retention was a G10 post-MLL rise. What an awful TV. Messed up voltages (as they all had that gen) and a hilarious THX profile out of the box. (that Panasonic never admitted to and quietly fixed later but never issued a proper update for older runs) I couldn't replace it with a 101FD fast enough.

A fellow G10 owner! I owned one of those. Had it for a month, lots of temporary IR, got buyer's remorse and worried about lasting damage, sold my G10 for a ~$100 loss, and got a Pioneer 500M and never looked back. Every Panasonic that I've owned has been bad with IR, but starting with the G10's they got really bad. I have an S30, and it gets IR easily as well. Haven't owned a 2012 or 2013 Panny so I can't speak to those. Seems like Panasonic really drove their plasma displays hard.

The least IR of any plasma I've owned was on Hitachi ALiS, and worst have been the 3 Panasonic TVs. But my son managed to burn in (permanently) my Pio 500M, so that's my worst experience.

 

[BriGuy]

Very. However, I'm unsure whether VRR will make the cut in 2018. Maybe if AMD is smart enough to cut a Freesync deal with one of the TV manufacturers.

I thought VRR was part and parcel of HDMI 2.1, as in if it has 2.1, it would be capable of VRR.

 

[Fitts]

How bright would you say you ran yours? 40-45fL was pretty much as bright as the 60" U would go in Cinema mode. It's quite possible (if not probable) IR increases exponentially with light output, where by 30fL may be really resistive while 40+fL is really prone. Either that, or there was a panel lottery in susceptibility. Even with several 1000's of hours of use, most recently putting 60+ hours into Nioh (which had an omni present HUD), it took several weeks to wear away the IR. This wasn't non-stop Nioh either, I had more hours of mixed content while playing it than I did game time. Fun fact, I had a G10 as well and my AVS handle is Orta, which you may recognize as the progenitor of the mega rising MLL thread.

Haha yeah I definitely remember you from AVS. I kept an updated log of my dealings with Panasonic in that thread.

I always aimed for 40, but jacked up the U50 in the living room as my wife uses it often and prefers a brighter picture. The S60 is currently at 85 contrast with panel brightness set to low while the contrast is maxed out on the U50. (both using the cinema profile, of course)

Edit: and to clarify my earlier statements, I have experienced IR on both of these TVs but nothing problematic. On the S60, after playing all those hours of Tekken I got curious and brought up the screen wipe. There were two faint lines where the life bars were displayed, so I left the wipe on and did something else. By the time I went back downstairs it was gone. Also, early in the panel’s life I would run the wipe pretty much every time after gaming. The few times that I noticed anything, I sat there and watched fade away completely after a few scrolls. I’ve never noticed anything while actually displaying content.

I bought the U50 used from Craigslist. Some guy was moving and needed to unload it cheap. He didn’t even watch TV and was using it to display the UI of some music streaming software he was using. I checked the hours in the service menu prior to purchasing, and it was around 250 hours. He was running it in vivid and it had two squares in the corners and a few lines from where white text was displayed constantly. I tweaked the cinema profile and just used it normally for a while. I don’t remember how much time had passed as I got it so cheap that I didn’t really keep tabs on the IR, but I threw on some color slides at some point and the panel was perfect. (as so it remains)

But my son managed to burn in (permanently) my Pio 500M, so that's my worst experience.

Damn that sucks. The 9/9.5G Pioneers were odd. They didn’t really get retention from my experience and seemed almost impervious to it... until they suddenly get irreparable burn in.

 

[Vertti]

I have Sony X900E. Which gives me the smoothest playback of 24p movie on Windows 10?

a.) switch refresh rate to 24 hz from nvidia control panel
b.) enable Motionflow with the "true cinema" setting and then enable film mode on "high"
c.) both give the same result

I watched a movie from VLC player with motionflow on true cinema and film mode on high. It felt a bit juddery at times but I was probably imagining things. Just want to make sure what gives the best results.

 

[nomis]

What’s everyone’s opinions on Wide vs. Auto(2017)/Normal(2016) gamut on Lg OLEDs for HDR Game?

I’ve heard people complain that Auto looks too washed out and even Vincent Teoh from hdtvtest says games “aren’t mastered in rec2020” or something and to put it on Wide even though my tv info reports that that is what the Ps4 is sending. I thought Wide looked great and colourful too until I compared it to auto and saw that the characters all looked like they were blushing red on Wide. Sure Auto looked a little washed out by comparison but I got used to it after five minutes and now i think things like green vegetation etc. look so much more natural and not cartoony.

 

[BurritoBushido]

I sit about 12' from my 55" C6.

Just wanted to say it won't be tiny at 8'. It could always be bigger, sure, but it's definitely not bad from 8'.




Really wish people would stop using those. HDR is worth the upgrade to 4K, guys.

Haha dang. Well in that case, any tips for best bang for my buck at 60-65 range? Ideally I'd like to stay as far under $1k as I can, but I'd definitely like something with good response time for games.

With Black Friday looming should I just wait until then? What should I be keeping any eye out for?

 

[MazeHaze]

I thought VRR was part and parcel of HDMI 2.1, as in if it has 2.1, it would be capable of VRR.

I don't think that's how it works. 2.1 CAN support vrr, just like 2.0a or whatever it's called CAN support HDR.

There have been posts by people in the industry on AVS that say they would have to completely re-do the SoC to support vrr, it isn't just a Switch you can flip. I really doubt the amount of people who will buy new Tv's for VRR is significant enough to warrant all of the added R&d cost of revamping the processor in the TV.


Edit: It's like how the current HDMI standard supports 1080p at 120hz, but there's really only a few Tv's that natively support it, and 3 of those Tv's just came out this year.

And you'll probably have some poor implementations when it does happen, like how the past couple years of Sony Tv's had crazy artifacts sparkling all over the screen at 120hz, or how the 900e has much shittier upscaling at 120hz.

 

[Klotera]

I have Sony X900E. Which gives me the smoothest playback of 24p movie on Windows 10?

a.) switch refresh rate to 24 hz from nvidia control panel
b.) enable Motionflow with the "true cinema" setting and then enable film mode on "high"
c.) both give the same result

I watched a movie from VLC player with motionflow on true cinema and film mode on high. It felt a bit juddery at times but I was probably imagining things. Just want to make sure what gives the best results.

In theory, Motionflow: Truecinema and Cinemotion: High should do reverse 3:2 pulldown and end up with the same result as 24Hz input. However, I've not tried then side by side.

Now, I'm not sure what VLC does when playing content on a 60Hz PC. If it's normal 3:2 pulldown, then the theory should hold. But, if there's some other wierdness going on with that, and then the TV manipulating it even more, then maybe the combination of all of that is causing some residual judder. If that is the case, native 24Hz output would be the best option.

 

[Endorphineforeverybody]

I have Sony X900E. Which gives me the smoothest playback of 24p movie on Windows 10?

a.) switch refresh rate to 24 hz from nvidia control panel
b.) enable Motionflow with the "true cinema" setting and then enable film mode on "high"
c.) both give the same result

I watched a movie from VLC player with motionflow on true cinema and film mode on high. It felt a bit juddery at times but I was probably imagining things. Just want to make sure what gives the best results.

Jup noticed that too with truecinema. I'm using now custom: first setting 2 or 3 and then min or 1 in the second setting. Just raise the brightness when set to 1. Film mode high.

 

[Vertti]

So it seems like my HDMI2 port may be broken. Screen goes randomly black for 1 second and then turns back on.

Oh well I have two more HDMI ports I can use but still. I have had this tv only for couple of days so kinda annoying.

 

[Swarlee]

Was just thinking about getting a 65" 900E, hearing people are having issue with jutter is concerning.

I have a few other questions.

Is the price likely to go back up?

Is there anything in the $1800 price range for a 65 inch I should be looking at?


I was reading that it has 100mhz refresh rate, but supports 120hz input. What am I losing here?