"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE

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The Corsair 540 comes with x3 140mm fans. I will be moving two of those to the top for exhaust and replacing the back 140mm with a 120mm for exhaust as well.

Then, I will be putting x3 120mm in the front for intake. Is this a good setup?

this is my current motherboard:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131837

For the CPU, I'm using x2 120mm. So that will leave me with 2 headers left. I think that cable will do the trick then. Is there any issues with power? The site says that the fans need 12v. This won't give me trouble?

Why do you want so many fans?
1 intake 2 exhaust is enough. Or 2 120mm intake 1 140mm exhuast if you want positive pressure.
 
So my GTX 980 and kraken x41 arrived and all installed :D seems to be working fine (can't get a stable 60FPS on GTA though but i've put everything on very high lol)

My CPU temps on idle is 30 and with prime running it reaches 50 is that about normal for a closed water cooler? i5 overclocked to 4.2 btw
 
Go for it, Noctua fans are awesome.

I did! Is there anything extra I will need to install it on my hyper 212 plus?

EDIT: Crap, it seems like I need brackets that my cooler came with... I have no idea where that box is. I cancelled my order because it seems like I can't install this fan without the brackets... crap.
 
So, Amazon.ca canceled my CPU order because of some weird "supplier can't supply this part" explanation, so I'm now considering my options. It was originally for a i7-4790s for approximately $330 CAD.

Lowest price I found was at Tigerdirect.ca at $413.26 including tax and shipping.

Alternatively, Amazon offered to waive shipping if I ordered on the US site, which turns to be around $400 after exchange rates and local taxes.

What should I do? I suppose I could also reconsider my choice of the 4790s in the first place, but all other possible choices will be quite a bit more expensive.
 
Reddit recommended this fan: http://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-F12-PWM-Cooling-Fan/dp/B00650P2ZC

Does anyone have any experience with it? I'll be running it in a push configuration blowing towards my case fan on the top of the backend of my tower, just like I have it set up now.
The NF-F12 makes a weird noise when it isn't obstructed. So it needs to be on a radiator and/or heatsink.

At 1200 RPM though (which is what most people consider to be quiet), there isn't a huge difference in the fans designed for good static pressure. You likely won't see much/any of a difference between that and a $10 Arctic Cooling F12, or Cougar Vortex.

CM JetFlos are supposedly beyond godlike for static pressure though.
 
Maybe something like this?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i3-4150 3.5GHz Dual-Core Processor ($103.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: MSI H81M-P33 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($40.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: Team Elite Plus 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($52.49 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 280 3GB DUAL-X Video Card ($159.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Thermaltake VL80001W2Z ATX Mid Tower Case ($21.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: XFX 550W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($44.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $474.42
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-04-21 06:30 EDT-0400

Thank you so much lord fuzzybutt! I am gonna buy all of this except the gpu. I realized after I had written that my wife said I could get a new GPU to replace the 780 this year. So I'm gonna throw that in my PC. Thanks!
 
The NF-F12 makes a weird noise when it isn't obstructed. So it needs to be on a radiator and/or heatsink.

At 1200 RPM though (which is what most people consider to be quiet), there isn't a huge difference in the fans designed for good static pressure. You likely won't see much/any of a difference between that and a $10 Arctic Cooling F12, or Cougar Vortex.

CM JetFlos are supposedly beyond godlike for static pressure though.

Thanks! Im concerned more about noise than performance.Any comment on installation? It seem like I need these extra brackets that hyper 212 came with, but I no longer have them.
 
Thanks! Im concerned more about noise than performance.Any comment on installation? It seem like I need these extra brackets that hyper 212 came with, but I no longer have them.
That's what I'm saying though. Noise and performance is only noticeably affected at higher RPMs. You take any fan, put it at 1200 RPM, and the only major difference will be the tone, not the dB level really. Differences reduce even further below that.

Where you see Noctuas and the like shine is above 2000 RPM where the higher quality does have an appreciable difference on performance and noise. Even then though, they're still so fkn close to something like a Cougar Vortex, Rosewill Hyperborea, or a huge slew of performance oriented fans.

What I'm saying is that you're pissing money down the drain. If that's what you want though, by all means. I dumped nearly $30 per fan for my Noiseblocker eLoops :P

n8H6m62.png
 
That's what I'm saying though. Noise and performance is only noticeably affected at higher RPMs. You take any fan, put it at 1200 RPM, and the only major difference will be the tone, not the dB level really. Differences reduce even further below that.

Where you see Noctuas and the like shine is above 2000 RPM where the higher quality does have an appreciable difference on performance and noise. Even then though, they're still so fkn close to something like a Cougar Vortex, Rosewill Hyperborea, or a huge slew of performance oriented fans.

What I'm saying is that you're pissing money down the drain. If that's what you want though, by all means. I dumped nearly $30 per fan for my Noiseblocker eLoops :P

Ok, I got you. The fan my hyper 212 came with has a low hum that it didn't used to, so I need to replace it regardless... Seems like I should just get something relatively cheap. Still not sure if I'll be able to install it though.
 
Ok, I got you. The fan my hyper 212 came with has a low hum that it didn't used to, so I need to replace it regardless... Seems like I should just get something relatively cheap. Still not sure if I'll be able to install it though.
Just remove the little mounting bracket that is on your hyper 212 fan and install it on your replacement.

Get a fan that maxes out at around 1200 RPM or a PWM fan and set a max speed in BIOS.

If you're on a consumer socket proc, it's unlikely that you'll need to go any higher than that.
 
Is anyone here familiar with the X-fi surround 5.1 pro? I have no idea how to get SBX surround to work with my headphones while playing games. If anyone knows how to set it up advice would be much appreciated.
 
Just remove the little mounting bracket that is on your hyper 212 fan and install it on your replacement.

Get a fan that maxes out at around 1200 RPM or a PWM fan and set a max speed in BIOS.

If you're on a consumer socket proc, it's unlikely that you'll need to go any higher than that.

Ah, got it. Thanks.
 
I just moved my PC's guts to a new case and have run into a pretty odd issue--

Whenever I have HWMonitor open, one of my HDDs makes a steady tapping noise, about 2 seconds apart. The drive access LED flashes in time with the taps. Closing HWMonitor immediately cuts the sounds. HWMonitor is installed to my SSD, so I don't even know what data it could be accessing that's stored on the drive in trying to read its temperature.

I've done a variety of random reads/writes and have been unable to replicate even a single tap. It is exclusively when HWMonitor is open.
 
Fan issues fixed with a little tinkering. Rig finished, and holy fuck, its more powerful than I ever guessed. Runs quiet and cool as well.

Really big thanks to everyone on GAF who pitched in with advice for me along the way. It's been really great, saved me a lot of cash and got me a better build at the same time. Couldn't have done it without ya!
 
Hello fellow gaffers, after years of working/playing games on my laptop, I have decided to bite the bullet and join the pc master race...NeoGaf has really inspired me to take this up as a hobby. Currently playing dota2 & farcry4 and do alot of excel, browsing for my professional line of work. I do want to future proof this pc for the next 4 years. Total cost is $2100 AUD.
I just went with parts that seem to be the most popular/highly rated under pcpartspicker.com. Happy for any opinions or direction for my first build (:

  • Intel Core i7-4790K Devil's Canyon 4.0GHz Socket 1150
  • Corsair Hydro H100i Extreme Performance Liquid CPU Cooler
  • Asus Z97-A Lga1150 Atx Motherboard
  • Seagate SATA3 2TB 7200RPM Barracuda 64mb Cache
  • NZXT Phantom 630 White Full Tower case No PSU w Window
  • MSI GeForce GTX 970 Gaming 4GB Video Card
  • Samsung 250GB SSD 850 EVO
  • Corsair CX 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply
  • G Skill 16G(2x8G) DDR3 1600MHZ PC3-12800 CL10(10D-16GBXL)

Yes, there's quite a bit you can do to optimize costs. Here's a similar build with virtually the same performance for $300 AUD less.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($329.00 @ PCCaseGear)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($45.00 @ CPL Online)
Motherboard: MSI Z97S SLI Krait Edition ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($189.00 @ CPL Online)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-2400 Memory ($172.98 @ Mwave Australia)
Storage: Crucial BX100 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($135.00 @ Umart)
Storage: Toshiba 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($99.00 @ IJK)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB FTW ACX 2.0 Video Card ($495.00 @ IJK)
Case: NZXT Phantom 630 (White) ATX Full Tower Case ($215.00 @ CPL Online)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($115.00 @ CPL Online)
Total: $1794.98
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-04-23 07:04 EST+1000

I changed the RAM, graphics card, and power supply for faster or better quality models that should be overall cheaper than what you had. Other parts are cheaper for cost savings but will not sacrifice performance. In the case of the processor and cooler, it is already very effective. The cooler is good to overclock up to and around 4.5GHz (source: [1][2]) and the i5 4690K and i7 4790K are very similar - the only difference is that the i7 has a higher base speed (being able to overclock negates that) and that the i7 includes hyperthreading which won't really affect game performance when both processors are already quad cores, as reported by Anandtech and Techspot's articles.

The one last thing you could save money on is the case. The NZXT Phantom 630 is quite pricey, have you looked at the company's other cheaper offerings like the S340? If you just want full tower for the size and ease of building, then I recommend the Phanteks Enthoo Pro ($129). It comes in both white or black and features premium build quality and design for a much lower price.

Yes, it's used but he's had a look and it's in really good condition. I've just spoke to him and mentioned what you said (thanks for help for a second time! :D) but he said he isn't really interested in doing anything himself, it's basically pre-built or bust. How far in the future are we taking before he'd have to realistically upgrade? He'd only be playing at 1080p with a single monitor.

I also actually got the parts list wrong. The bulk of it is correct however the PSU is actually OCZ 750W Bronze 80 plus and the SSD is actually 256GB.

Oh, if those parts are right, then it's an even better build. The SSD only being 64GB was a little odd, and OCZ back then as I recall was pretty decent for power supplies.

As for when he'll need to upgrade, that depends on other factors like what graphics settings he likes to play at. The more he doesn't mind lower graphics settings means the longer he can go without needing an upgrade. There's nothing really wrong with AMD, games will still run at a playable framerate on medium settings or better most of the time, it's just not as good as Intel for outright performance, that's all.

Media Center/Server PC..

Which Video card? I'd like it to have at least 1 HDMI port, 2 might be nice..

I'd also like to spend as close to $100 as I can. Games will not be played on this machine and I'm not very concerned about noise.
No, I'd rather have a dedicated card.

I'm probably going to get a EVGA 02G-P4-2740-KR GeForce GT 740 2GB 128-Bit GDDR3 PCI Express 3.0 Low Profile Video Card.

This one.. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487095
Just wondering, is there a reason you need multiple HDMI ports? I don't know what sort of HTPC you already have, but current generation Celeron integrated graphics are already capable of 1080p and even 4K video playback.
 
ok guys I need some help with my computer Im looking to upgrade my graphics card.. I have a R5870 1GB had it since NOV 09 <3 its been an amazing card and worked wonderful for me but its time for a new one...
I ran Dxdiag on my computer and it does not list the System Manufacture or the system model I dont know what new card would be compatible with my system and dont really want to buying something I'll have to exchange... I'm REALLY not hardware computer savy.. it even scares me lol its just one fuck up away from destroying a 2 thousand dolla machine.
CDOnickWIAAEWaw.jpg

sorry for the shitty pic...

i5 750 @ 2.67hz x4
8gb ram
R5870 1gb
250gb ssd

i'd like not to spend more the 3 benj I'd rather get 4gb than 2gb vram... thanks for any help
<3
 
ok guys I need some help with my computer Im looking to upgrade my graphics card.. I have a R5870 1GB had it since NOV 09 <3 its been an amazing card and worked wonderful for me but its time for a new one...
I ran Dxdiag on my computer and it does not list the System Manufacture or the system model I dont know what new card would be compatible with my system and dont really want to buying something I'll have to exchange... I'm REALLY not hardware computer savy.. it even scares me lol its just one fuck up away from destroying a 2 thousand dolla machine.
CDOnickWIAAEWaw.jpg

sorry for the shitty pic...

i5 750 @ 2.67hz x4
8gb ram
R5870 1gb
250gb ssd

i'd like not to spend more the 3 benj I'd rather get 4gb than 2gb vram... thanks for any help
<3

For $300, your best bet would be an R9 290X. All graphics cards use PCI-E, so compatibility is no problem. That said, recent rumors are saying that AMD will release their new R9 3XX line in June, depending on how much longer you can wait, it might be worth waiting for.

If you're interested in upgrading now, there's the Sapphire R9 290X ($280 after $30 discounts). However, it may or may not work with your system. What we need to know is your power supply model (has to have enough wattage and correct cables) and what kind of case you have (the graphics card has to physically fit in the case, of course).

Edit: The Gigabyte GTX 970 Windforce is $295 after $20 rebate if you don't mind rebates. GTX 970 cards rarely ever drop under $300.
 
Here's what I recommend. It's the strongest graphics card and CPU you can hope to get at your price range.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($226.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($28.95 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 PRO4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($89.99 @ Micro Center)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-2133 Memory ($58.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($52.49 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R9 290 4GB Tri-X OC Video Card ($239.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair Graphite Series 230T Black ATX Mid Tower Case ($54.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($49.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $802.38
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-04-15 18:31 EDT-0400

If you live near a Microcenter, you can get the motherboard and CPU bundled together for just $250. Otherwise, to save some money you could go with a cheaper graphics card.

Do you already have a copy of Windows? Windows 7/8.1 licenses can be bought from reddit's microsoftsoftwareswap for $20 or less. These are most likely legitimate keys that are resold from educational programs like Technet or Dreamspark. However, you are dealing with a person instead of a retailer, and informal Windows keys sales are unapproved by Microsoft and probably breaking some licensing agreement to be clear, but it's not illegal. The risks involved are that the person could be selling you a fake or used key, or that Microsoft may deactivate your license and refuse to reactivate it, although it's somewhat unlikely, usually only if the seller and their list of sold keys was caught. We've had people here using those keys without issues for a long time and others who say Microsoft deactivated their key after several months.

Edit: I noticed you said you were planning to build in May. Prices can and will have changed by that point, so keep this parts list as a guideline, we should come back to this about a week or so before you intend to buy so you can figure out definite costs. Still, if you were hoping to buy some parts early, the graphics card and case are at a nice price and you could buy them now.

Thank you for taking the time to select parts and help me with my build. I do have a comparative question though. If I were to forgo building and instead buy an alienware alpha i7 would the performace be comparable based on its specs? It's about the same price with windows and an extra 360 controller included.

Sorry if this is a taboo subject in a building thread; I'm just asking because I don't really know what I would be getting myself into building the system itself and if the specs are comparable it might be less taxing to just go ahead and purchase the alpha i7. I know the CPU at least is better than the suggested CPU although I'm not entirely sure what that entails.
 
Thank you for taking the time to select parts and help me with my build. I do have a comparative question though. If I were to forgo building and instead buy an alienware alpha i7 would the performace be comparable based on its specs? It's about the same price with windows and an extra 360 controller included.

Sorry if this is a taboo subject in a building thread; I'm just asking because I don't really know what I would be getting myself into building the system itself and if the specs are comparable it might be less taxing to just go ahead and purchase the alpha i7. I know the CPU at least is better than the suggested CPU although I'm not entirely sure what that entails.

If you can change the oil in a car, you can build a computer :) From what I've seen, pre-built premium computers are also sold at a premium as well -- you're better off building one yourself most of the time. Either that, or certain parts are "compromises".
 
If you can change the oil in a car, you can build a computer :) From what I've seen, pre-built premium computers are also sold at a premium as well -- you're better off building one yourself most of the time. Either that, or certain parts are "compromises".

Yeah which is why I was hesitant about buying a premium computer from alienware because I've heard about the price gouging, but I just want a comparative summary between the parts that were picked for a build and the alienware alpha i7 to see if the build would have greater performance because at the moment the build I was given and the prebuilt pc are about the same price.

EDIT: And alpha i7 seems to have the recommended specs for the games that I want to play on it.
 
Long time lurker, first time poster!

It's finally time to buy my new PC, I've been using this current one since 2008 all be it with some minor upgrades. Not re-using any components from my current PC except for the monitors/keyboard/mouse etc.

No worries about OS, and sadly I"m nowhere near a Microcenter store. I'm in TX so Amazon charges me sales tax...

Budget: under $1k before tax ideally.
Main use: Gaming at 1680x1050, no plans to upgrade monitors, emulation, general usage.
Part reuse? Nope, just monitors etc.
When? Intending to start buying parts this weekend.
Overclocking? Sure, if it's easy!

This is what I've whipped up on PCPartPicker so far.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($231.99 @ NCIX US)
CPU Cooler: Rosewill RCX-ZAIO-92 54.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97-HD3 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($72.89 @ OutletPC)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($63.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial BX100 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($98.99 @ Directron)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($52.49 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Zotac GeForce GTX 970 4GB AMP! Omega Core Edition Video Card ($329.92 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair SPEC-01 RED ATX Mid Tower Case ($47.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 520W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($68.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer ($14.98 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1002.22
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-04-22 19:47 EDT-0400
My big questions are:
- the case - I really don't know what case to get and I've had bad luck fitting front fans myself so I'd like one with good airflow already. I do not need LEDs everywhere. But I really have no clue what I should get.
- the GPU - is the AMP! Omega Core model overkill? The OC interface + extra cooling look useful.
- mobo solid? I don't need ridiculous options, just a good solid mobo that'll handle overclocking the CPU & have the normal set of ports etc.
- PSU okay? No plans to SLI any time soon, really would like semi-modular cables at least (a first for me!).
- Main aim of this is rock solid 60fps at high quality settings in GTA5 & games for the next year or two. Not upgrading to 1440p any time soon, strictly 1080p at max.
 
Someone stop me if I'm crazy, but because Amazon canceled my i7-4790s order, I'm going with the Xeon 1231v3. Is this reasoning sound:

- About the same price point as the i7-4790s (~$330)
- No IGP needed since I'm getting a 960
- Apparently runs cooler (?) compared to other i7s for some reason.

The other possible option is the i7-4790 which is around $40 over my initial costs. Neither option will break the bank, but I still want to make the smart choice... :) An i5 may be another option too, but I'd lose hyperthreading and my use-case is core sensitive.

(Oh, and to refresh everyone, rendering/video/image processing machine with occasional gaming and CUDA)

I'm probably going to order everything by this weekend since my teahcing semester officially ends by the end of this week. :)

Yeah which is why I was hesitant about buying a premium computer from alienware because I've heard about the price gouging, but I just want a comparative summary between the parts that were picked for a build and the alienware alpha i7 to see if the build would have greater performance because at the moment the build I was given and the prebuilt pc are about the same price.

EDIT: And alpha i7 seems to have the recommended specs for the games that I want to play on it.

Taking a cursory glance at the alpha i7, the GPU is kind of underwhelming. The 290 should blow it out of the water.
 
gEdcTJy.jpg


I just got this warning, the hard drive in question wasn't being used when this appeared. It is really going to die or could just be a Windows mistake? Sometimes windows asks to scan my external drives saying that there are errors but then it finds nothing.

Should I just unplug it? :(
I thought this would happen soon as the drive was really loud so I have everything backed up already.
 
I added 2 more 120mm fans to my Corsair 540. On the top of my case. Keeps it at steady temps. Made one intake and the other exhaust.

I would bet removing those fans would have less than 2*c impact on the temps. I run a lot more power heavy components in small Matx and ITX chassis with a lot less cooling capacity and still manage fine. There is no point adding fans to reduce temps from 60c to 55c, all you are doing is making more noise.
Intake and exhaust at the top is hardly ideal either, most of the air is going to end up getting exhausted as soon as it enters.


gEdcTJy.jpg


I just got this warning, the hard drive in question wasn't being used when this appeared. It is really going to die or could just be a Windows mistake? Sometimes windows asks to scan my external drives saying that there are errors but then it finds nothing.

Should I just unplug it? :(
I thought this would happen soon as the drive was really loud so I have everything backed up already.

You should run something like HDTune to get the hard disk SMART statistics.
 
Someone stop me if I'm crazy, but because Amazon canceled my i7-4790s order, I'm going with the Xeon 1231v3. Is this reasoning sound:

- About the same price point as the i7-4790s (~$330)
- No IGP needed since I'm getting a 960
- Apparently runs cooler (?) compared to other i7s for some reason.

The other possible option is the i7-4790 which is around $40 over my initial costs. Neither option will break the bank, but I still want to make the smart choice... :) An i5 may be another option too, but I'd lose hyperthreading and my use-case is core sensitive.

(Oh, and to refresh everyone, rendering/video/image processing machine with occasional gaming and CUDA)

I'm probably going to order everything by this weekend since my teahcing semester officially ends by the end of this week. :)



Taking a cursory glance at the alpha i7, the GPU is kind of underwhelming. The 290 should blow it out of the water.
The smart choice would be the 4790k for the 4.0ghz base frequency
 
Hey PC-GAF, I'm trying to squeeze a little more juice out of my 4 year old rig in anticipation of The Witcher 3.

Current specs are as follows:
2500k (will definitely oc)
16gn ddr3 at 1600
msi r6970 2gb

I wanted to OC my 6970. My question is whether or not people typically adjust the Core Voltage of a GPU before they start tweaking the core and memory clocks.
 
The smart choice would be the 4790k for the 4.0ghz base frequency

The 4GHz base is tempting, but I'm not sure if that's overkill or not :D To be fair though, getting the 4790k would mean picking up a decent cooler... which is another added cost.

On the other hand, a lot of people simply run the 4790k at base frequency and massively undervolt the chip instead.

Choices, choices...
 
Sorry if this is not the place for this.

I tried OC'ing my graphics card and I have some questions, does the +whatever number add to the normal clock or the boost clock? I added a +50mhz and it shot up to 1500mhz
My card (970) has the following specs:
1190mhz
1342mhz boost

Am I doing something wrong?

Oh and I also added a +150mhz on the memory clock if that makes a difference
 
The 4GHz base is tempting, but I'm not sure if that's overkill or not :D To be fair though, getting the 4790k would mean picking up a decent cooler... which is another added cost.

On the other hand, a lot of people simply run the 4790k at base frequency and massively undervolt the chip instead.

Choices, choices...

To be honest, as someone with a 4790k, its fast enough at the stock frequency for just about anything right now. I have mine mildly overclocked (4.4GHz) but I'd probably see the same performance in 99% of what I do if it wasn't. Of course, who knows how it'll run in 2-3 years, but for now its fine, and if you can afford the 4790k, I'd highly recommend it.
 
2 part question. I have 16gb DDR4 (4X4), I have an extra 2x4gb pieces. Would it be wise to mix? That would give me 6 sticks. If not, does anyone want 2 3000mhz DDR4 sticks for around 120? The 16gb kit is 300.
 
The 4GHz base is tempting, but I'm not sure if that's overkill or not :D To be fair though, getting the 4790k would mean picking up a decent cooler... which is another added cost.

On the other hand, a lot of people simply run the 4790k at base frequency and massively undervolt the chip instead.

Choices, choices...

It's technically overkill but the thing's a beast. Loving the performance I'm getting out of mine and it isn't even overclocked.

The CM 212 Hyper Evo is super cheap too. I'd recommend the 4790k.
 
To be honest, as someone with a 4790k, its fast enough at the stock frequency for just about anything right now. I have mine mildly overclocked (4.4GHz) but I'd probably see the same performance in 99% of what I do if it wasn't. Of course, who knows how it'll run in 2-3 years, but for now its fine, and if you can afford the 4790k, I'd highly recommend it.

Haha, I can definitely afford it, but it feels like feature creep to me. :D I started out wanting a 4790s because of its low power consumption (and the rock-bottom price of $330 until Amazon canceled on me). Typical price of the 4790s runs about $370-390 in Canada... whereas the 4790k is about $420.
 
Long time lurker, first time poster!

It's finally time to buy my new PC, I've been using this current one since 2008 all be it with some minor upgrades. Not re-using any components from my current PC except for the monitors/keyboard/mouse etc.

No worries about OS, and sadly I"m nowhere near a Microcenter store. I'm in TX so Amazon charges me sales tax...

Budget: under $1k before tax ideally.
Main use: Gaming at 1680x1050, no plans to upgrade monitors, emulation, general usage.
Part reuse? Nope, just monitors etc.
When? Intending to start buying parts this weekend.
Overclocking? Sure, if it's easy!

This is what I've whipped up on PCPartPicker so far.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($231.99 @ NCIX US)
CPU Cooler: Rosewill RCX-ZAIO-92 54.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97-HD3 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($72.89 @ OutletPC)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($63.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial BX100 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($98.99 @ Directron)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($52.49 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Zotac GeForce GTX 970 4GB AMP! Omega Core Edition Video Card ($329.92 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair SPEC-01 RED ATX Mid Tower Case ($47.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 520W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($68.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer ($14.98 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1002.22
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-04-22 19:47 EDT-0400
My big questions are:
- the case - I really don't know what case to get and I've had bad luck fitting front fans myself so I'd like one with good airflow already. I do not need LEDs everywhere. But I really have no clue what I should get.
- the GPU - is the AMP! Omega Core model overkill? The OC interface + extra cooling look useful.
- mobo solid? I don't need ridiculous options, just a good solid mobo that'll handle overclocking the CPU & have the normal set of ports etc.
- PSU okay? No plans to SLI any time soon, really would like semi-modular cables at least (a first for me!).
- Main aim of this is rock solid 60fps at high quality settings in GTA5 & games for the next year or two. Not upgrading to 1440p any time soon, strictly 1080p at max.

Here's my version of your build after price and part optimizations. It's capable of SLI down the line if you prefer to have the option open.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($231.99 @ NCIX US)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($28.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-SLI ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($100.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-2133 Memory ($54.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial BX100 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($94.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Toshiba Product Series:DT01ACA 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 4GB WINDFORCE 3X Video Card ($295.00 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair 300R ATX Mid Tower Case ($53.00 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $969.81
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-04-22 22:11 EDT-0400

1. I changed the cooler and case for slightly larger ones. It costs slightly more, but the Corsair 300R is a decent case with good cooling potential and airflow. The Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo is a proven cooler that will handle overclocking up to and around 4.5GHz easily.
2. I changed the motherboard for the SLI capable model. If you absolutely don't think you'll do SLI, then you can go back to the cheaper Gigabyte model. I can't really find any professional reviews for the cheaper HD3 model so I don't know how well it overclocks, but I know the Z97X-SLI model is capable of moderate overclocking.
3. Cheaper and faster 2133MHz memory. Can't really complain about that. Unless you want the colors to match the motherboard. Totally doable if that's the case.
4. I switched the Western Digital hard drive for the Toshiba model. It's just a few dollars difference, they should be nearly identical performance wise.
5. Now, the graphics card. $330 for that graphics card isn't that great a deal, if you check the price tracker, it sorta frequently drops to that price and other comparable GTX 970 models are often available for about $320. For a really low price, I recommend the Gigabyte GTX 970 Windforce, it's $295 after $20 rebate. It's clocked only slightly lower than the Zotac, but Gigabyte is a better known brand, has more reviews, and should be very suitable for overclocking. The Gigabyte card also comes with a redeemable code for The Witcher 3.
6. The EVGA Supernova B2 is a solid power supply and offers more wattage for a cheaper price than the Seasonic. Nothing wrong with Seasonic, it's just at a high price. Also, 750 watts gives you the option of supporting SLI in the future. If you don't want to do SLI, then you could go with another power supply, like the XFX XTR 550 watt gold rated fully modular PSU ($61) which is actually a rebranded Seasonic power supply.
 
Hey guys! For the first time in my life I am finally getting a nice gaming/performance PC (at least I think so)

I am still not confident enough to build my own (I am sure I will in the future) so I took to Digital Storm and purchase the level 4 Bolt 3 PC. I am so excited to finally be able to test the latest games. Hopefully this will last me a good while and I can upgrade parts as I go and get more experience with PC building.

The build is sexy as hell too, which is one reason I decided to go with them instead of building my own. It hasnt arrived yet. It should ship at the end of April. Here are some specs

Intel Core i7 4790K 4.0 GHz
16GB DDR3 1866MHz
1x SSD (250GB Samsung 850 EVO)
1x Storage (1TB Seagate)
NVIDIA GeForce GTX TITAN X 12GB
240mm Liquid Cooling System
Overclock CPU 4.0GHz to 4.4GHz

I will be doing some serious gaming on this machine. Cant wait! Hopefully in the next version of this thread I will have my own build.
 
Here's my version of your build after price and part optimizations. It's capable of SLI down the line if you prefer to have the option open.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($231.99 @ NCIX US)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($28.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97X-SLI ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($100.98 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-2133 Memory ($54.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial BX100 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($94.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Toshiba Product Series:DT01ACA 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.98 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 4GB WINDFORCE 3X Video Card ($295.00 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair 300R ATX Mid Tower Case ($53.00 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $969.81
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-04-22 22:11 EDT-0400

1. I changed the cooler and case for slightly larger ones. It costs slightly more, but the Corsair 300R is a decent case with good cooling potential and airflow. The Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo is a proven cooler that will handle overclocking up to and around 4.5GHz easily.
2. I changed the motherboard for the SLI capable model. If you absolutely don't think you'll do SLI, then you can go back to the cheaper Gigabyte model. I can't really find any professional reviews for the cheaper HD3 model so I don't know how well it overclocks, but I know the Z97X-SLI model is capable of moderate overclocking.
3. Cheaper and faster 2133MHz memory. Can't really complain about that. Unless you want the colors to match the motherboard. Totally doable if that's the case.
4. I switched the Western Digital hard drive for the Toshiba model. It's just a few dollars difference, they should be nearly identical performance wise.
5. Now, the graphics card. $330 for that graphics card isn't that great a deal, if you check the price tracker, it sorta frequently drops to that price and other comparable GTX 970 models are often available for about $320. For a really low price, I recommend the Gigabyte GTX 970 Windforce, it's $295 after $20 rebate. It's clocked only slightly lower than the Zotac, but Gigabyte is a better known brand, has more reviews, and should be very suitable for overclocking. The Gigabyte card also comes with a redeemable code for The Witcher 3.
6. The EVGA Supernova B2 is a solid power supply and offers more wattage for a cheaper price than the Seasonic. Nothing wrong with Seasonic, it's just at a high price. Also, 750 watts gives you the option of supporting SLI in the future. If you don't want to do SLI, then you could go with another power supply, like the XFX XTR 550 watt gold rated fully modular PSU ($61) which is actually a rebranded Seasonic power supply.


Awesome, that's exactly the advice I was hoping for. Building it with an eye for SLI down the line works for me, especially the price difference now is negligable. Absolutely okay with a lower cost GTX970 - like I said, the buzzwords wow'ed me :)

The one thing I'm tempted to do is go ahead & buy 16GB RAM while I'm at it, just for the head room of dayto day messing around & gaming...

Is it worth sticking in a couple of extra (cheap) fans into that case?
 
can someone work up a solid $600 rig for me?

i wanna play gta5 !

i don't need a monitor, kb/m, or speakers

Do you live near a Microcenter? Their $250 i5 4690K and ASRock Z97 Pro4 bundle would let you spend more for a stronger graphics card. Otherwise, I'd recommend a build like this:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($231.99 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: ASRock Z97 PRO4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($89.99 @ Micro Center)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-2133 Memory ($54.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($52.49 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon R7 260X 2GB Video Card ($96.98 @ Newegg)
Case: BitFenix Comrade ATX Mid Tower Case ($34.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: Corsair CX 600W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($51.49 @ Newegg)
Total: $612.92
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-04-22 22:44 EDT-0400

I thought about dropping down to a cheaper processor, but in the end I decided that a weaker graphics card is easier to resell and upgrade than a weaker processor. That and GTAV does put good emphasis on having a decent processor. At the very least, the R7 260X should be capable of a little bit more than 30FPS at medium to high settings on 1080p, according to various youtube gameplay videos.

2 part question. I have 16gb DDR4 (4X4), I have an extra 2x4gb pieces. Would it be wise to mix? That would give me 6 sticks. If not, does anyone want 2 3000mhz DDR4 sticks for around 120? The 16gb kit is 300.

You could, but depending on the motherboard, it may or may not work in quad channel mode. A while back in this thread, this image of a certain RAM configuration for 6 sticks was posted that apparently works for quad channel mode, but I can't actually find any online documentation to support it. No RAM company sells quad channel kits with 6 sticks, anyway.

Awesome, that's exactly the advice I was hoping for. Building it with an eye for SLI down the line works for me, especially the price difference now is negligable. Absolutely okay with a lower cost GTX970 - like I said, the buzzwords wow'ed me :)

The one thing I'm tempted to do is go ahead & buy 16GB RAM while I'm at it, just for the head room of dayto day messing around & gaming...

Is it worth sticking in a couple of extra (cheap) fans into that case?

If you want 16GB, I recommend this kit: 2x8GB G.Skill 2400MHz RAM ($100). Good price and free shipping from Newegg as well.

The Corsair 300R comes with a single 140mm fan in the front and a single 120mm fan in the rear. If you like you can add fans, but I'd just keep it as is and see how temperatures are. If it seems that the system is running somewhat warm then you can try running the fans higher or then adding extra fans. It's quite easy to add extra fans, but decent fans can cost a pretty penny.
 
You could, but depending on the motherboard, it may or may not work in quad channel mode. A while back in this thread, this image of a certain RAM configuration for 6 sticks was posted that apparently works for quad channel mode, but I can't actually find any online documentation to support it. No RAM company sells quad channel kits with 6 sticks, anyway.

I have the ASUS x99 Pro. Pending some reading or suggestions, I will look into it tomorrow but if I could have 24 instead of 16 and run it proper then I will take it.
 

Just wondering, is there a reason you need multiple HDMI ports? I don't know what sort of HTPC you already have, but current generation Celeron integrated graphics are already capable of 1080p and even 4K video playback.

I don't know. I guess I just don't mind spending a bit of money just in case I do want to play a few games on the big screen. Reason for 2 HDMI ports would be for an option to add a second screen for streaming my MLB.TV games on. The HTPC will be located in my Reds 'man-cave'.

I have a 3gb 7950 in my current 'main pc' which is basically a spreadsheet, skype, and slack machine because most of the time I work from home. I tend to spend what little gaming time I do have on consoles or the vita.

I just like to have options and have the money to spend to give myself options. I still haven't bought anything I'm halfway across the globe right now for work and won't be home until probably Saturday. So while I'm sitting in the hotel at night I'm dreaming about building my ultimate HTPC.

Essentially I want a machine that has massive amounts of storage that I can rip all my blurays to and then be able to hardwire that PC into my network and play my movies on all of the screens in my house. If I remember correctly that would be 6 or 7. So I guess I need to figure out NAS and a solution to getting the content to those screens as well.

I'm well versed at building PC's but I'm not too familiar with the networking side of things. Eh, at least it gives me something to research when I get to the hotel tonight.

edit: I really should just PM my man Smokey.
 
I have the ASUS x99 Pro. Pending some reading or suggestions, I will look into it tomorrow but if I could have 24 instead of 16 and run it proper then I will take it.

Ahh, here you go. Page 1-7 of your motherboard manual has this diagram.



I am not actually sure if it will run in quad channel mode, though. You will actually need to install the 6 RAM modules into those specifically marked slots and see if the BIOS says it is running in quad channel mode.
 
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