metsallica
Member
Agreed. Thanks! I think I'm going to stick with EVGA as I've had great success with their CS.
"I Need a New PC!" 2015 Part 1. Read the OP and RISE ABOVE FORGED PRECISION SCIENCE
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
LostInNoise
Member
I guess it's time for me to finally cave in and replace my desktop of like 7 years lol. I work in IT and am on my computer constantly, but I'm not sure of the most efficient build or anything as I'm far from a PC enthusiast. So if you guys could help me come up with a great build for a decent price, that's all I'm asking of the experts that live here 
Bare with me, my computer is rather old, but I don't do PC gaming. I use it for streaming and various other media things plus daily browsing. If I do any gaming its only MMOs and the occasional RTS. That might change with a decent build, but I've never been a heavy PC gamer and I don't see that changing.
Current Specs:
This was a prebuilt HP so I'm honestly not sure what's all in it. The current GPU and PSU I put in myself and I've added an additional HDD.
CPU - AMD Phenom II X4 830 Processor 2.8 GHz
RAM - 6 GB
GPU - nVidia GeForce GTX 560
Budget:
Essentially I can spend whatever, but I was hoping to keep it somewhere between 700-900. If it goes over, no big deal, if under, great. I'm also not sure what kind of budget to expect to have, so like I said it's kind of whatever to get what I need built. I live in the US.
Main Use:
Light Gaming - 3
Video Editing - 2
General Usage - 5
No deadline, no overclocking (as far as I know if I should or not lol), etc. Resolution isn't an end all be all thing to me. I really need something that just doesn't bog down when doing day to day tasks like my current desktop does. The most important thing for me would be network connectivity. Right now I have an Asus USB Wi-Fi adapter and it doesn't seem to always hold a connection so I'd probably want an internal card correct? If possible, AC too since my new router supports that. Probably want USB 3.0 ports too. Right now its taking me hours to transfer just an 8 gig file between drives and it's gotten to the point where I'm fed up with it lol.
I do a ton of multi-tasking and file transferring between internal/external drives. It just seems to constantly crash, etc. I just need something that's able to handle a good amount of work load in that aspect and if it makes MMOs and RTSs' look more pretty and play better, I'm all for it. I would like to also be able to efficiently stream 1080p movies from my plex media server to my TV. I'm not sure if the stuttering/constant buffering now is due to the crappiness of my desktop or due to the terrible wifi signal (I'm upstairs and my router is downstairs). Anyway, if you need anything else, let me know.
Thanks guys
Bare with me, my computer is rather old, but I don't do PC gaming. I use it for streaming and various other media things plus daily browsing. If I do any gaming its only MMOs and the occasional RTS. That might change with a decent build, but I've never been a heavy PC gamer and I don't see that changing.
Current Specs:
This was a prebuilt HP so I'm honestly not sure what's all in it. The current GPU and PSU I put in myself and I've added an additional HDD.
CPU - AMD Phenom II X4 830 Processor 2.8 GHz
RAM - 6 GB
GPU - nVidia GeForce GTX 560
Budget:
Essentially I can spend whatever, but I was hoping to keep it somewhere between 700-900. If it goes over, no big deal, if under, great. I'm also not sure what kind of budget to expect to have, so like I said it's kind of whatever to get what I need built. I live in the US.
Main Use:
Light Gaming - 3
Video Editing - 2
General Usage - 5
No deadline, no overclocking (as far as I know if I should or not lol), etc. Resolution isn't an end all be all thing to me. I really need something that just doesn't bog down when doing day to day tasks like my current desktop does. The most important thing for me would be network connectivity. Right now I have an Asus USB Wi-Fi adapter and it doesn't seem to always hold a connection so I'd probably want an internal card correct? If possible, AC too since my new router supports that. Probably want USB 3.0 ports too. Right now its taking me hours to transfer just an 8 gig file between drives and it's gotten to the point where I'm fed up with it lol.
I do a ton of multi-tasking and file transferring between internal/external drives. It just seems to constantly crash, etc. I just need something that's able to handle a good amount of work load in that aspect and if it makes MMOs and RTSs' look more pretty and play better, I'm all for it. I would like to also be able to efficiently stream 1080p movies from my plex media server to my TV. I'm not sure if the stuttering/constant buffering now is due to the crappiness of my desktop or due to the terrible wifi signal (I'm upstairs and my router is downstairs). Anyway, if you need anything else, let me know.
Thanks guys
It's like automobiles. You can get a Kia with SatNav, Leather Seats, rear wheel drive, and a V6. You can also get a Mercedes with all that same stuff. One is considered better than the other right?
There's a variety of things that go into a quality motherboard. One is the PCB itself. It might only be 3 layers, it might be 5 layers, it might be 7 layers. This gives them different layers of the PCB in order to draw traces on which reduces interference between components. If you've ever heard weird PC noises through onboard sound, you have experienced the bad side of this. This would be Gigabyte>ASUS/EVGA/MSI>ASRock
Another is the quality of components. The capacitors, the MOSFETs, the amount of copper in the PCB, amongst others. This is generally not a concern for most people, but enthusiasts and people who like to run their systems hard are generally picky about these things. This would be mostly dependent upon how much you spend on the board, with most of the big names being fairly equal, with a nod probably going to ASUS and Gigabyte.
The major one that you will probably appreciate is the type of controllers used for various things. One vendor might use a Sound Blaster chip, whereas another may use a Realtek ALC(insert numbers here). This carries over to things like SATA ports, the NIC, or extras like m2 SATA ports.
Then there's BIOS/UEFI. How well they code this very much impacts stability and how much you can tinker with the board. I'd probably rank the makers like ASUS>Gigabyte>MSI>ASRock>EVGA on this one.
The last one that probably has the most significant impact on current purchasing trends is aesthetics.
Now, this is all for the Budget-$200 range pretty much. Once you go higher, there's other stuff to consider.
What you want to be looking for, more or less, is a 6 or 8 Phase motherboard with (hopefully) an Intel NIC, and Intel SATA controllers. The audio portion is subjective to an extent, and it only matters when you're an audiophile, at which point you'll know what you want.
What I mean by phase, is that you can just count the little square blocks around the CPU socket. This is an 8 Phase motherboard.
The other stuff, like quality of components and PCB thickness is why I always personally try to steer folks away from ASRock and some of the cheaper stuff. It's also why I generally prefer Gigabyte boards, but often use ASUS as well due to their BIOS/UEFI often being rock solid.
If you're curious about the high end stuff, I can go into detail about that. But a tl;dr of it is: goodies for people who overclock super super heavy, people who use LN2, and PLX chips which effectively multiply PCI-E lanes (taking the native 16 lanes on a consumer socket processor and allowing for stuff like x16/x8/x8/x4 SLI/Crossfire).
Stumpokapow
listen to the mad man
Thanks. This was way closer to helpful than anything I've learned so far, but it still seems like actually telling anything about component quality in that respect is an art. Like, you're mentioning brand ranking, and I have no reason not to trust you, but it's not clear to me how I'd figure that out. There's no benchmark for PCB quality. It also seems hard to figure out tangibly what impact these things would have. Weird noises is definitely a risk, so that's tangible. But beyond that, no one seems to be able to specify if poor component quality is going to lead to higher rate of failure or lessened performance or whatever. Say Motherboard A has a shitty NIC and Motherboard B has a good NIC; is it likely I'd notice the difference in throughput or latency or component failure rate?
The phase thing, for instance, makes total sense. But then why isn't the number of phases listed as an attribute on eCommerce sites? Why can't I filter by number of phases on shopping sites?
The phase thing, for instance, makes total sense. But then why isn't the number of phases listed as an attribute on eCommerce sites? Why can't I filter by number of phases on shopping sites?
Because consumers don't know and neither do the people selling them.
I am a motherboard junkie, and even I don't know how to tell what kind of MOSFETs are better than others outside of taking the word of some folks I trust who do understand these things.
In terms of those things causing system failure, it is going to be based around thermal dissipation. An 8 layer board with way more copper in it is going to run cooler than a thin board with less copper. Combine this with lower quality caps increases risk of failure. This probably isn't impactful for most folks, but just having that knowledge generally pushes enthusiasts to take it into consideration.
Others, like NIC type have hard benchmarks showing the differences. Same with SATA controllers and the like. These are visible in all motherboard reviews.
Fail rates are really hard to gauge, and you can really only guesstimate it through community anecdotes and visiting the support forums of the products to see if there are commonly occurring issues.
I'm on mobile, but I'll add some helpful links in a bit when I get home.
Also, welcome to a peek into the back end on how Haz and I select components
I am a motherboard junkie, and even I don't know how to tell what kind of MOSFETs are better than others outside of taking the word of some folks I trust who do understand these things.
In terms of those things causing system failure, it is going to be based around thermal dissipation. An 8 layer board with way more copper in it is going to run cooler than a thin board with less copper. Combine this with lower quality caps increases risk of failure. This probably isn't impactful for most folks, but just having that knowledge generally pushes enthusiasts to take it into consideration.
Others, like NIC type have hard benchmarks showing the differences. Same with SATA controllers and the like. These are visible in all motherboard reviews.
Fail rates are really hard to gauge, and you can really only guesstimate it through community anecdotes and visiting the support forums of the products to see if there are commonly occurring issues.
I'm on mobile, but I'll add some helpful links in a bit when I get home.
Also, welcome to a peek into the back end on how Haz and I select components
The BIOS/UEFI preference is the main thing which narrows down the search for me.
Once you make that choice it makes it much easier to look at that company's boards and find which meet your spec requirements and budget. Then just hit the reviews and recommendations for that hopefully much smaller selection.
Once you make that choice it makes it much easier to look at that company's boards and find which meet your spec requirements and budget. Then just hit the reviews and recommendations for that hopefully much smaller selection.
Mkenyon's post is great, I'll back him up with some details.
It is pretty overwhelming. The way I look at it, generally socket 1150 motherboards under $100 are considered budget and lower end, $100~150 are entry level and midrange, and above that are relatively high end motherboards that tend to integrate extra features and gimmicks that aren't necessary (but do have added value to people who want/need those features). The $100~150 range is good enough for 90% of end users out there and will handle moderate overclocking and daily use just fine. If one isn't interested in features like overclocking and SLI/crossfire support, sub-$100 motherboards are perfectly adequate.
I recommend Z97 for best compatibility and new features. Z87 was designed to support Haswell processors as well as future models (which is great for those who already own a Z87 motherboard and want to upgrade their processor), but Z87 motherboards may require a BIOS update to be compatible with the current generation of processors. Z97 is compatible out of the box with all current generation processors (Haswell Refresh and Devil's Canyon), and that removes that degree of uncertainty. You might save some money, but the potential headaches aren't worth it. If you pick up a Z87 motherboard with a current generation processor, it may not be compatible and you'd have to do a BIOS update.. which you can only do if you have a compatible processor. There are some motherboards that allow special means of updating the BIOS (Some Asus models let you update the BIOS without a processor), but that's not really a common feature.
Unfortunately, PCPartPicker doesn't list power phases or anything like that. It's actually somewhat cloudy because what the manufacturer advertises isn't exact and it's something that marketing people have their hands in, they may advertise a certain number of phases but they only achieve that number through some marketing mathematics to double the number of actual phases, for example. If you want to read up on power phases, see these links below. There are even references for what true phases that certain motherboards models have, but the lists are incomplete. Generally speaking more expensive motherboards tend to have higher phase count, yet more isn't always better, you'll likely never be in a(n overclocking) situation where you absolutely needed 12 phase power for example.
Overclock.net Z97 VRM Info thread
Sin's Hardware VRM guide
Sin's Hardware motherboard list
What they've been telling you about "Better motherboards are better at overclocking" and "SLI-capable motherboards have better components" is really neither here or there when it comes to actual quality. There is a slight correleation in that more expensive motherboards tend to have better components and larger feature sets (which can include SLI support) and have larger heatsinks and achieve better overclocking, but really, there's no solid link.
Other than that, I recommend you look up professional motherboard reviews from tech and hardware review websites for motherboards that you want to buy. Some motherboard manufacturers like Asus and Gigabyte include handy comparison engines for their products. Not all motherboards are popular enough to get reviewed, and in that case I'd look to user reviews from large websites like Newegg and Amazon, although I'd not trust them as much due to varying levels of user competency and use cases. However if a motherboard seems to have a large proportion of negative reviews despite positive professional reviews, you may want to avoid them as it may be an indication of poor quality control and perhaps manufacturing defects, especially if users report consistent issues (more than a few people reporting the same common problems like certain ports dying, etc). Companies may send well-tested parts to professional reviewers for testing and then let quality control or manufacturing take a dip in quality after a while. Gigabyte was caught doing this on some lower end motherboards, they released a substantially different motherboard with different power delivery and overall poorer performance but marketed it as being "revision 2.0" of an already established motherboard model with similar feature set. I wouldn't expect companies to try something underhanded with more expensive motherboards, but you never know.
I agree with this: it's generally accepted that Intel makes solid LAN chipsets and Realtek LAN is perceived as being "lower" quality or more likely to fail, but of course there are no failure figures to back this up. The only thing we know for sure is that cheaper motherboards tend to feature more Realtek chipsets, probably for their lower cost.
There are quite a lot of motherboards that fit into those generalized specs, though. Which is why for the purposes of this thread, we try to make it simpler for those new to PCs by recommended known, proven parts for them in the example parts lists in the OP of this thread.
the_firewithin
Member
dumb question coming up....
currently have 8GB memory. want to add another 8. right now i have to sticks in for DDR3 1600 and according to speccy the dual channel is running 800mhz. I assume the 1600 gets split between the two sticks. now i was going to buy same pair that i have and speccy also says they are running at 11-11-11-28 where what i bought according to my newegg history they are timed at 9-9-9-24.
does this conflict?
currently have 8GB memory. want to add another 8. right now i have to sticks in for DDR3 1600 and according to speccy the dual channel is running 800mhz. I assume the 1600 gets split between the two sticks. now i was going to buy same pair that i have and speccy also says they are running at 11-11-11-28 where what i bought according to my newegg history they are timed at 9-9-9-24.
does this conflict?
I'm having an issue I was hoping someone here could help me with. I just installed a fresh version of Windows 8.1 on a new SSD. For some reason at startup, if I click on the "this pc" folder, it won't even populate for a good minute to minute and a half. I never had this problem with Windows 8 or 7 on my old SSD. Is there something I could be missing?
Corran Horn
May the Schwartz be with you
Thinking of building a micro pc for my living room. Mostly up to wii/ps2 emulation is desired with mild level gaming as I still have my main pc in another room.
Never done a micro before. This is my current build
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/7zvxQ7
Anything I should change around for better price or better performance? Not really sure what I should be aiming at.
Never done a micro before. This is my current build
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/7zvxQ7
Anything I should change around for better price or better performance? Not really sure what I should be aiming at.
opticalmace
Member
The timings will be printed on the side of the sticks, take a look inside your case and see what it says. It could be that you just need to set them in your BIOS to the actual timings, or maybe Speccy is misreading them (could compare with CPU-Z).
jim2point0
Banned
What about the 850?
Amazon is being weird about the crucial drive. Estimated delivery for that is Wednesday, whereas the Samsung can be here on Monday. Really strange.
OdysseusVA
Banned
Would the Antec VP450 be sufficient for a G3258/660Ti combo? Planning an overclock for the CPU.
Ugh. Power 'Phases' is such a marketing term that I don't even know where to start. It's just a way to describe how many 'independent' power busses are present in a board, that's it. The reason why you want a higher number of power busses is because of noise and droop/sag during overcurrent/transient conditions.
Also, @Stumpokapow: another way to approach a system build is to work backwards from your use-cases. Are you using this as a gaming PC? Are you doing multimedia work? Is overclocking a consideration?
edit: Another thing to consider is that the difference between two choices (ie. motherboards for instance) can simply be branding. There will be few differences between equivalent boards of reputable manufacturers, aside from connector placement and perhaps customer service. The latter will require some reading, as some companies are notoriously bad for RMAs.
Also, @Stumpokapow: another way to approach a system build is to work backwards from your use-cases. Are you using this as a gaming PC? Are you doing multimedia work? Is overclocking a consideration?
edit: Another thing to consider is that the difference between two choices (ie. motherboards for instance) can simply be branding. There will be few differences between equivalent boards of reputable manufacturers, aside from connector placement and perhaps customer service. The latter will require some reading, as some companies are notoriously bad for RMAs.
They run at 800MHz but because DDR RAM (Double Data Rate) doubles the data being transfered, it is effectively 1600MHz. I'd check your memory settings in BIOS, see if you can run them at 9-9-9-24?
Most likely yes. Depends how far you overclock, but a 4.7GHz overclock with that CPU and the GTX 660 Ti graphics card would be around 350~400 watts, according to this wattage calculator.
Here's my version of your build:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($231.99 @ NCIX US)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($28.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z97N-WIFI Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard ($99.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($51.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($52.49 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon R9 280X 3GB Video Card ($221.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Node 304 Mini ITX Tower Case ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA GS 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($65.99 @ NCIX US)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($87.79 @ OutletPC)
Total: $901.10
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-04-24 21:45 EDT-0400
I found cheaper, faster 1x8GB RAM, which leaves you the option of adding more RAM in the future if needed. The Gigabyte Z97N-WIFI motherboard is cheaper as well, you won't really be missing the Gaming 5's extra features.
The 840 Evo is not recommended due to the performance bug which wasn't totally fixed. I'd actually drop the SSD in favor of a normal hard drive and a stronger processor and graphics card if you're interested in emulation. Sure the load times will be longer, but the added performance will mean smoother gameplay. The G3258 is capable, but still somewhat lacking when it comes to games. It's easy enough to add an SSD in the future, anyway.
Although the EVGA 600B is decent for a budget model, it's sort of at a high price. In the past, it's sold frequently for $35 after rebate. For a small case, I actually recommend something with modular cables to cut down on clutter. The new EVGA Supernova GS 650 watt seems good, it's 150mm deep and therefore should fit well in the Node 304, even accounting for the extra length of the modular plugs. It was launched this year with good reviews and includes new flat style cables which look very handy in a cramped case like the Node 304.
To further cut costs, Windows 7/8.1 licenses can be bought from reddit's microsoftsoftwareswap for $20 or less. These are most likely legitimate keys that are resold from educational programs like Technet or Dreamspark. However, you are dealing with a person instead of a retailer, and informal Windows keys sales are unapproved by Microsoft and probably breaking some licensing agreement to be clear, but it's not illegal. The risks involved are that the person could be selling you a fake or used key, or that Microsoft may deactivate your license and refuse to reactivate it, although it's somewhat unlikely, usually only if the seller and their list of sold keys was caught. We've had people here using those keys without issues for a long time and others who say Microsoft deactivated their key after several months. If you do go that route, you could spend the money saved on an SSD or even stronger graphics card.
Ok, so I've finally built my PC and everything is currently updating and appears to be working. However, I don't know how to format my SSD and HD. Currently the OS and updating are all downloading to the SSD as I know they should, but how do I set up my second hard drive?
Also, what types of other major programs should I save to my SSD vs HD:
Also, what types of other major programs should I save to my SSD vs HD:
Office?
Antivirus?
Steam (can I have the client + favorite games on SSD and others on HD without having problems?)
Browser?
Etc.
Antivirus?
Steam (can I have the client + favorite games on SSD and others on HD without having problems?)
Browser?
Etc.
OdysseusVA
Banned
Here's a guide for formatting a hard drive from within Windows.
You only need to have the programs that you want to load more quickly saved to your SSD. That usually means games and whatever you have set on Windows startup. Programs like Office applications, I feel are already fast enough on a regular hard drive (unless you're working with extremely large files and see slowdown). Yes, it's possible to device steam games to different install locations. See this guide.
I just upgraded from an i5 2500 to an i5 4690K, overclocked to 4.1GHz using the stock cooler. It's an upgrade for sure, and it's great that there's potential for more performance out of the chip if I decide to go down that road. But to be honest, I don't think the cost of was worth it for the fairly limited performance gain. On the other hand, you have no room to breathe with the 2500.
Well, that at least is easy to fix. Use the original and best hardware selection service, and best Austrian thing on the Internet: Geizhals.
http://geizhals.at/?cat=mbp4_1150&xf=317_Z97~4771_Intel~5300_8#xf_top
(sadly, it will only help you for filtering and model selection but not actually purchasing if you're not in Europe)
If the above isn't in English (I assume it changes based on your browser settings, but it might not) then try this -- though it's missing s few features it can still filter by a lot more criteria than anything else I know, including e.g. CPU phases:
http://skinflint.co.uk/?cat=mbp4_1150&xf=317_Z97~5300_8~4771_Intel&sort=p
So I'm going to ask a stupid question because it's better to be safe then sorry I guess. I'm replacing the powersupply on my computer, which I've never done before, and the new one is slightly different then the old one (which came with the pre-built when I bought it like 5 years ago).
So this will sound dumb but whatever, but just tell me if i'm fucking something up please.. The dvd drive should have one (SATA?) connection to the power supply, and one to the mother board. The hard drive should have one (SATA again?) connection to the power supply, and one to the mother board. The mother board has a the big 24 pin connection to the power supply. And my graphics card has a 6 pin pci-e connection. right?
Two questions. Is there supposed to be another (maybe 4 pin) connection for the CPU sepcifically? I dont' see one (intel i7 900 series). And also, i've got a cable with multiple SATA connectors on it, can I use that one cable to connect both my hard drive and dvd drive to the power supply?
Also, another dumb question. The new power supply has a big fan on one side of it, the old one didn't. Do I point the fan down into the case? or up to vent in the top of the case even though the vent doesn't go through to the outside?
So this will sound dumb but whatever, but just tell me if i'm fucking something up please.. The dvd drive should have one (SATA?) connection to the power supply, and one to the mother board. The hard drive should have one (SATA again?) connection to the power supply, and one to the mother board. The mother board has a the big 24 pin connection to the power supply. And my graphics card has a 6 pin pci-e connection. right?
Two questions. Is there supposed to be another (maybe 4 pin) connection for the CPU sepcifically? I dont' see one (intel i7 900 series). And also, i've got a cable with multiple SATA connectors on it, can I use that one cable to connect both my hard drive and dvd drive to the power supply?
Also, another dumb question. The new power supply has a big fan on one side of it, the old one didn't. Do I point the fan down into the case? or up to vent in the top of the case even though the vent doesn't go through to the outside?
the_firewithin
Member
so yah i figured out if i change the profile in bios (asrock board) it switched to the 9-9-9-24 timings.
had these two years and never noticed so i feel like an idiot
Yep.
It can be 4 or 8 pin depending on the motherboard. What power supply did you buy and what motherboard do you have? If you're unsure of the motherboard model, maybe we can look up information on the prebuilt PC's model number. There should be a 4 or 8 pin plastic plug near the CPU.
Yep.
That fan is an intake, it pulls air into the power supply to cool down the components. Ideally it should pull air in from the outside, but it is safe to point the fan toward the inside of the case to get air from there.
Thank you. I found the cpu plug in and I pointed the intake down into the case. I think everything is good I'm about to test it out. I should have gotten a bigger case aswell. Shit is packed in there tight.
edit: and it's working. thanks again
I need help,
I installed a new graphics card but now the boot up screen defaults to 640x480 and I can't access the bios
Wait, what do you mean you can't access the BIOS? The Hotkey doesn't work?
Have you tried booting to safe mode and installing the drivers there?
I can get to it but the it's not loading correctly
opticalmace
Member
How so? What does it say?
it just shows this
Holy shit. That is literally the first time I've seen something like that.
Try a different cable or connection? We'll also need more information.
What are your system specs? Most importantly, what graphics card did you buy and what power supply do you have? How did you plug in all of the power cables for the graphics card, you didn't use an adaptors, did you?
Titan X, everything works -- it boots into windows like normal it's just that I can't access the bios while it's plugged in to the GC
Corran Horn
May the Schwartz be with you
For Windows, you probably just need to install drivers. If you like, you can use Display Driver Uninstaller to clear out old drivers before installing the latest ones.
So you've tried HDMI and DVI as well as different cables and the BIOS always looks like that? Try reseating the graphics card or using a different PCI-E slot?
So I recently received a CoolerMaster v1200 Platinum PSU because of a warranty mess up which was kind of cool I suppose. I plan on building a new PC come August, but I was looking around for PSU modular cables to make it look a little better inside my case. Would any PSU cable set from say frozencpu work or do I need to find ones specific for CM? If so, does anyone know a site that sells cables for the PSU specified above?
I've tried everything you suggested but still no luck
Any info on when the 980Ti is supposed to release? I had been planning on waiting for the 390x to release before looking at building a new computer...but according to their earnings call, that won't be until 2H 2015 (late June at the earliest).
Also I'm not sure if I should try holding off for Skylake or what. Stupid computers.
Also I'm not sure if I should try holding off for Skylake or what. Stupid computers.
Nvidia may be keeping the wraps on the "980 Ti" to use as a counter to the R9 390X, so I'd expect it to be no sooner than the launch of the R9 390X.
Not a lot of info on Skylake. You could build now if you want, performance-wise there's nothing wrong with current generation processors and motherboards. It's just not as "futureproof" as waiting for Skylake's new socket and DDR4.
Well, I'm stumped. I don't suppose you have another PC you can test the Titan X with?
Isn't FrozenCPU currently not taking orders? There was some.. drama and company restructuring about two months ago, I think.
Whether or not a set of modular cables works or not depends on the set in question. Depending on different connectors, I think you would need to look for one specifically mentioned to be for Cooler Master power supplies. For example, ModDIY sells these cables which say they're for the V850, and going by the images on Cooler Master's website, the V850 seems to use the same type of connections and pinout that the V1200 has.
Nope, I'm just going to leave it alone for now and get a support ticket from evga to see what they have to say. Thank you for your help though
MrGame&Watch
Member
I built a PC ~6 years ago and I'm looking to possibly build another.
Question. Is it possible to build a console-sized form factor with a decent video card and an ssd, or are we not there yet?
Question. Is it possible to build a console-sized form factor with a decent video card and an ssd, or are we not there yet?
It depends on what you consider console-sized or decent video cards. You can get some thinner systems like a few of the Steamboxes or the Alienware Alpha, but I'd hardly qualify those as decent video cards
Ncase - M1
Not exactly console-size, but close.
There may be better options, but this can fit a normal video card, as well as watercooling (not sure about regular loops, but CLCs are fine).
The smallest case you can currently get other than going with some custom-made design would be the Silverstone RVZ01 or ML07, which is still somewhat larger than say an older Xbox 360.
Silverstone is planning to launch an even smaller case called the RVZ02 which should be pretty much console sized. It was announced in January and should be out sometime this summer.
Edit: I should say that they take SSDs and HDDs, as well as twin slot graphics cards up to 330mm. It is somewhat cramped to build in, and the premium for such a compact case also means you're limited to Silverstone's 600 watt small-form-factor power supply, which is enough for a GTX 980 or maybe even a Titan X if the rest of the components aren't power hungry.
I'm thinking of getting an electric duster to clean my PC. Something like this
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001J4ZOAW/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Anyone have any experiences with these?
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001J4ZOAW/?tag=neogaf0e-20
Anyone have any experiences with these?
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