NeoGAF Arcade Stick Thread
- Thread starter MarkMan
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True, I was more thinking that the TEs had kinda set the stage for the original red VLX. This one definitely seems more japan-ey.
And, it is like $200 more to import the thing. I remember paying a bit over $500 to import the original VLX form akihabarashop.jp...such a heavy price I never felt compelled to get a second.
If Hori Store USA is smart they will bring it over for $299...and sell a bunch! I'd rather buy 2 US versions instead of one import.
Hori really raping wallets this year :-(
Did order one from amazon.jp, though.
Resolution
Member
Yeah seems better to just wait it out
MarkMan
loves Arcade Sticks
SentientStone
Member
Wow, my friend just messaged me about the new VLX, definitely going to get one if Amazon.ca sells it or if importing isn't too costly. I still want the original VLX though, getting these just for collection, not even for play. 
Resolution
Member
Sucks its only for ps3 though 
I'll be honest ...
It's the same thing as the HRAP 3 SA.
I don't know why a lot of us went gaga over this. Or why some of us still do. Save your money and buy an HRAP 3 SA cheap or an HRAP 3 and mod that.
When the 3 SA was practically everywhere on the Net for under $100, it was cheaper for anybody to buy that stick, gut it of Sanwa parts and sell those parts (or reuse them in another joystick project), and put in the Seimitsu parts the 3 SE used.
That said, I DID order the HRAP 3 SE through Akihabarashop.jp but DIDN'T keep mine stock. Oh, I kept the LS-32-01 -- one of my favorite joystick levers -- BUT I was originally going to replace the Seimitsu buttons with all-Sanwa.
(Not a fan of the PS-14-G buttons.)
Didn't happen.
Per convinced me to get PS-15's and suggested replacing the switches in those with Sanwa SW-68 switches.
Glad I listened to him! Besides those switches, the only Sanwa parts on the HRAP 3 SE are plunger-switched OBSF-24's same color as the original 24mm Seimitsu PS-14-D's that I sold.
The joystick is a favorite of mine BUT again it's just a rebranded HRAP 3 SA...
Looking forward to seeing the Fighting Edge arrive in the US later in the summer.
I have my doubts that the Blue VLX will show up in the US but the HRAP V3 VF5 is coming over so there's always a chance...!
da_stabbah
Member
is there a guide out there to add bolts to the top on other HORI RAP sticks? it's a pain to have to take the bottom off just to unscrew the top.
Check these out. I bought some a few years ago and they work great.
http://www.tek-innovations.com/arthobbies/?loc=products&cat=4&subcat=&item=101
I just threw a TE Kitty into one of those SFxT Pro sticks. That was one of the most annoying mods I've done. Toodles doesn't technically support it because he couldn't find a install method clean enough for him to feel comfortable advertising, and now I see why. Took a lot of trial and error to find a decent position for it, and in the end I'm not 100% pleased with how it's seated but it's functional and secure so I'm done with it.
Now I just need to order some clear seimitsu buttons, an LS-58, and some new art and I'll be able to get rid of a couple of my other sticks thankfully. That means I'll have a HRAP EX-SE for sale soon that's been used probably less than 30 times. I'll let you guys know when I'm looking to sell it (and I'll post in the buy/sell stuff thread, of course
).
Now I just need to order some clear seimitsu buttons, an LS-58, and some new art and I'll be able to get rid of a couple of my other sticks thankfully. That means I'll have a HRAP EX-SE for sale soon that's been used probably less than 30 times. I'll let you guys know when I'm looking to sell it (and I'll post in the buy/sell stuff thread, of course
).AmiAmi has the P4U stick up for preorder:
http://www.amiami.com/top/detail/detail?scode=TVG-PS3-1357
http://www.amiami.com/top/detail/detail?scode=TVG-PS3-1357
donkey show
Member
toastyToast
Member
wat?
it's like they just took an all black stick and slapped a sticker on it
it's like they just took an all black stick and slapped a sticker on it
OneMoreQuestion
Member
donkey show
Member
Hmmm, to art up my Hori SCV stick as a Gundam stick or a Turquoise Jeep stick...
djSyndrome
Member
Not the actual art.
sixteen-bit
Member
I wanted to make a TJR stick, but I need some turquoise buttons and ball top. The relatively new Seimitsu light blue they have out might do the trick, but I haven't seen them in person.
donkey show
Member
Yeah, I was thinking that as well with their faces in the buttons. On the bottom, it'll say "A Tummiscratch Stick"
Yeah, just a placeholder. SDTekken reports that and I'm assuming the japanese text overlay says something to that effect.
Though looking at the less than 10000 yen price it hopefully will be a smaller stick with full sanwa...maybe like the baby Exar.
sixteen-bit
Member
I got some classic converters. Now I really want an HRAP 2 SA, lol
Deadly Monk
Banned
Hey guys.
What's the best stick in your opinion for someone who doesn't want to mod it for 360? Something below $100 preferably? I'd like a few options and have no idea how to judge them on Amazon.
Mostly for Street Fighter.
What's the best stick in your opinion for someone who doesn't want to mod it for 360? Something below $100 preferably? I'd like a few options and have no idea how to judge them on Amazon.
Mostly for Street Fighter.
PolarBearsClub
Member
I would wait to see if Hori/MadCatz/eightarc/whatever decide to do a sale over a weekend when there's a tournament. They usually do $50 off with a promo code, so you can get a really great stick for around $100.
I bought a hori EX2 for like $65 and one of the buttons stopped working after a few months; I wouldn't recommend getting that one. I have been using my Mad Catz TE stick for 3 years and it is still in great shape.
It's not a big problem...
I talked about this on the T5 mode guide over at SRK.
I modded 8-10 T5 and generic HRAP 3 stick bases this way...
Basically, you have to buy 6 capsocket screws from a local hardware store... Online, you can usually only buy in bundles of at least 25 so you choose where to get them.
BEFORE YOU GO BUYING HARDWARE, THOUGH... be aware that Japanese parts are metric.
You need to buy capsocket/Allen screws that are 4M, 0.7 pitch. The hex nuts that Hori uses in its vanilla HRAPs and licensed HRAPs are 4M hex nuts (0.7 pitch). (Mad Catz uses the same style hex nuts, too.)
What you do is take off your base plate and all the hardware pieces... THEN, take the Allen screws and put them through the holes on top. Use a ratchet piece (don't know what it's called) or thin-nosed pliers to screw the hex nuts onto the Allen screws until they're snug.
THEN, using a heat gun, pour glue over the hex nuts until they're covered. Let the glue set for a day minimum and harden. 24 hours later, remove the Allen screws with an Allen key (Hex key) and you're set. Voila, done, and you can remove the faceplate from the top instead of having to remove the baseplate every time.
One thing you have to realize is that they don't sell Allen screws in stores with the head sizes that Mad Catz and Hori use for their top-of-the-line joysticks. Largest head-size Allen screws you'll find in-store are 2.5 (takes a 2.5 Allen/hex key to remove those screws) in the US and they don't advertise this online! Most hardware sites don't even tell you what the head size is but they will list the screw diameter (4M) and pitch (0.7). Most Allen screws sold in the US appear to be stainless steel, though, and do resist rust better than Mad Catz's Allen screws do...
D'you see that one up in the buy/sell/thread? Looks a little used and pricey, though.
sixteen-bit
Member
Thanks for the heads up, I'll take a look.
Alright, I recently ordered some Sanwa buttons to replace my Hori ones on my PS3 HRAP3.
This is my first time swapping out buttons on a stick, but the process seems simple enough. I just have one quick question for those of you who have experience with this sort of thing.
Will I need anything more than a flat-head screwdriver and a Phillips-head? The annoying thing about the HRAP3 is that you need to remove the bottom plate and then another inside portion before you have access to the underside of the top panel. The outside screws are simple Phillips-head jobs, while the inside ones appear to be hexagonal washers screwed down around the threaded portion the rounded screws that hold the top panel in place.
What should I use to get those washers off easily? Can I get by without having to procure a socket wrench and/or hex driver from somewhere?
Also, I've seen some people suggest that you'd need needle-nose pliers to help in disconnecting the quick-disconnects from the buttons. Would I be able to just use the flat-head screwdriver to separate the quick-disconnect from the button a little bit before just pulling it off with my fingers?
PS - I ordered six grey buttons, two all-black, and a grey balltop to match. I'm just keeping the yellow Hori start/select buttons.
This is my first time swapping out buttons on a stick, but the process seems simple enough. I just have one quick question for those of you who have experience with this sort of thing.
Will I need anything more than a flat-head screwdriver and a Phillips-head? The annoying thing about the HRAP3 is that you need to remove the bottom plate and then another inside portion before you have access to the underside of the top panel. The outside screws are simple Phillips-head jobs, while the inside ones appear to be hexagonal washers screwed down around the threaded portion the rounded screws that hold the top panel in place.
What should I use to get those washers off easily? Can I get by without having to procure a socket wrench and/or hex driver from somewhere?
Also, I've seen some people suggest that you'd need needle-nose pliers to help in disconnecting the quick-disconnects from the buttons. Would I be able to just use the flat-head screwdriver to separate the quick-disconnect from the button a little bit before just pulling it off with my fingers?
PS - I ordered six grey buttons, two all-black, and a grey balltop to match. I'm just keeping the yellow Hori start/select buttons.
Alright, I guess I'll just pick one up then. Thanks!
sixteen-bit
Member
Wow, 16? Stick collecting is no joke.
Just noticed these in Sanwa's online shop.
http://item.rakuten.co.jp/sanwadenshi/button_043/
http://item.rakuten.co.jp/sanwadenshi/button_044/
Sanwa getting into the console business confirmed.
I was looking for their silent parts. Is anyone selling them yet? And do they have a unique product number?
http://item.rakuten.co.jp/sanwadenshi/button_043/
http://item.rakuten.co.jp/sanwadenshi/button_044/
Sanwa getting into the console business confirmed.
laughing-out-loud
I was looking for their silent parts. Is anyone selling them yet? And do they have a unique product number?
StarCreator
Member
I'm actually going to have to suggest these to the guys that bring their cabs to cons and sometimes run console games in there. Hilarious as it is, these definitely have their uses.
I'm actually fully expecting Sanwa/Seimitsu to just straight start making console joysticks. The arcade business is drying up, and the console scene is getting bigger. It's the only natural conclusion.
Impressive. I have five and I'm still looking to cull the herd. Haha
I'm selling a modded PS3 TE (not dual modded, please see post) and a HRAP EX-SE in the buy/sell thread. Take a look, I know some of you dudes have expressed interest in wanting an(other) EX-SE.
StarCreator
Member
Modding 360 support into a PS3 stick is typically far more difficult than modding PS3 support into a 360 stick. I'd just get a new stick.
crimzonflame
Member
Get a Qanba
Stabby McSter
Member
Wait wot, don't you mean modding a PS3 stick into a 360 stick is more difficult?
StarCreator
Member
I believe that's exactly what I said.
Stabby McSter
Member
blackwatchplad
Neo Member
I'm working on a few sticks as of right now!
But I have a few questions.. I'm more or less just thinking about different possibilities for sticks.
What's all of your opinions on what size would make the best stick? Namely the *play area* as I've been calling it to myself.. or just the area where the clear-plexi typically goes.
I can't seem to find a good middle ground to make everyone happy.
Been making prototypes that are 8.5 inches by 11 inches for the plexi area. (12.5x10 inches overall in size however) Some people say it's a bit too small, some say a bit too big.
I may post pics later this week, or next week if i finish a batch. Gonna be my first batch.
I'm also up for suggestions if anybody wants to see anything.. If i can pull it off, I may try it.
But I have a few questions.. I'm more or less just thinking about different possibilities for sticks.
What's all of your opinions on what size would make the best stick? Namely the *play area* as I've been calling it to myself.. or just the area where the clear-plexi typically goes.
I can't seem to find a good middle ground to make everyone happy.
Been making prototypes that are 8.5 inches by 11 inches for the plexi area. (12.5x10 inches overall in size however) Some people say it's a bit too small, some say a bit too big.
I may post pics later this week, or next week if i finish a batch. Gonna be my first batch.
I'm also up for suggestions if anybody wants to see anything.. If i can pull it off, I may try it.
notworksafe
Member
This is the size of my custom and I think it is perfect.
StarCreator
Member
As long as the lever and buttons are a reasonable distance apart, I can work with just about any size plexi as long as there's nothing cutting into my wrists. A friend used to have an Arcade-in-a-Box stick and the vinyl siding they use to cover the edges pretty much murdered my arms when I tried it.
blackwatchplad
Neo Member
Oh yes. I played on a cabinet someone made one time where the vinyl molding was too large. I thought I was going to slit my wrists.
--
I think I'll make a few that differ an inch or two in size both ways, and see how each feels.
If I have enough left over, I'll probably end up giving some away.
I do like 8.5x11 inches so people can print their own art without any large printer, or going somewhere.
But on the flip side most people (including myself) would probably get artwork professionally printed since you may as well go that extra step.
I've always tinkered with things and building things. Cabinetry is actually a family business in my family, even though it's died out pretty much.
I think it would be pretty cool to make a small business out of this.
Nothing huge, as I try to strictly use hand tools. But a made to order type deal would be pretty neat.
I'm considering selling my fightstick and getting one, yeah.
What model/where should I buy it though? I'd really like to not pay that much...
Has anybody experienced problems playing a Qanba and a chimp board in the same system.
All of my sticks are chimps, a few friends have Qanbas. I've run into the problem that my stick works fine, until a Qanba is plugged in and then mine disconnects.
I've also randomly had my stick not work on different consoles. It's really frustrating to get to a tourney and have my stick not work. :/
I had it happen at EVO (that REALLY sucked...luckily I brought a backup TE) and a few recent tourneys all with different sticks, same boards.
All of my sticks are chimps, a few friends have Qanbas. I've run into the problem that my stick works fine, until a Qanba is plugged in and then mine disconnects.
I've also randomly had my stick not work on different consoles. It's really frustrating to get to a tourney and have my stick not work. :/
I had it happen at EVO (that REALLY sucked...luckily I brought a backup TE) and a few recent tourneys all with different sticks, same boards.
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