Learning Photography

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The difference between a bad photographer, as they say, isn't $10,000 worth of gear, or 10,000 books read. It's 10,000 shots taken, or 10,000 hours spent.

This is certainly one of the good aspects of the digital age. When I was young, I simply couldn't afford to shoot as many pics as I wanted or was needed to train my art skills. My abilities were so limited that I never looked at photography as an artistic hobby but it was just a method to make pictures of travel destinations, parties or people I wanted to keep as a reminiscence.

This changed when I went digital. All the experiments with exposure parameters, focal length and the arrangement of the elements in a frame really took more than 20,000 or 30,000 clicks.
 

RuGalz

Member
Anyone has experience with making 3D images? I've got 2 of the same camera for a week or so and want to experiment a little.
 

artist

Banned
Any tips on capturing falling snow (besides dark background :p) since there is big storm tomorrow in the east.
 

(._.)

Banned
I've been shooting a lot lately and have been seeing myself improve. I've noticed light plays a BIG part in making something look incredible. Going out around the time the sunrise and taking photos will yield some incredible results that may not happen if you're shooting midday.
 

lupin23rd

Member
I don't know if this is an odd or difficult question, but on the topic of going out and just practicing as a beginner...

Sometime next week I'm going to make my way out to Kamakura, a place with a lot of temples and old architecture near Tokyo, and thinking that since I've been here a few times already, it would be a good chance to practice with my new T3i. Granted, this camera is probably far better than anything else I've owned before so these shots may turn out the best.

In terms of going out to photograph architecture, are there any specific settings or techniques that would be good to play around with or practice while I'm out there?

I've been taking some notes from the Understanding Exposure book, and looking around blogs about architecture photography, but curious if any of you guys have some tips or things to share specific to this topic.

Will be working with the kit 18-55mm lens, and possibly have a 50mm 1.8 although I understand that's not really suited for this type of stuff.
 

Atsumi

Member
Any tips on capturing falling snow (besides dark background :p) since there is big storm tomorrow in the east.

Manual focus and luck is really all I could offer suggestion wise. I've never actually tried it. What kind of images are you wanting with falling snow?
 

BlueTsunami

there is joy in sucking dick
Any tips on capturing falling snow (besides dark background :p) since there is big storm tomorrow in the east.

The storm already passed but to answer this question, experiment with the lighting if you can. As peteykirch showcased strong front lighting can pick up the snowflakes rather strongly but this will make each individual flake look flat in the scene. If you captured said snowflakes with side lighting it will probably look more dramatic. How would you do this? With street lights positioned correctly in relation to your view would work really well. Now shooting snow during the day during a storm, its going to look flat no matter what due to the overcast light.

Atsumi's manual focusing suggestion is a great one too. Since, during a storm, hitting snowflakes shouldn't be too hard you'd choose your focus depending on other major subjects in the scene or if you want thinner depth of field for a dramatic effect.
 
The difference between a bad photographer, as they say, isn't $10,000 worth of gear, or 10,000 books read. It's 10,000 shots taken, or 10,000 hours spent.

Best advice I heard when I use to shoot on film "The best photographer is the guy with a trash can full of film." Which I find is right on the money. Switching to digital has really shown me this.
 

(._.)

Banned
You can get better a lot faster on digital too since it's so forgiving. I've shot on film a couple times before and it's a lot harder cause you can't see what you just took or adjust your settings etc.
 

phisheep

NeoGAF's Chief Barrister
Best advice I heard when I use to shoot on film "The best photographer is the guy with a trash can full of film." Which I find is right on the money. Switching to digital has really shown me this.

Unfortunately in the digital age this probably isn't quite the distinguishing factor it once was, as the worst photographer probably also has a trashcan, or at least a hard drive, full of bum photos.
 

tino

Banned
You can get better a lot faster on digital too since it's so forgiving. I've shot on film a couple times before and it's a lot harder cause you can't see what you just took or adjust your settings etc.


Heh? I don't agree. Digital make people spending way too much energy to focus on small thing like archiving raw files, fixing lens distorting etc etc that only affect 1% of image quality.

And lets face it IQ only affect maybe 10% of the overall artistic value of a photo.

Another example is that lowering entry cost of film making hasn't made overall quality of amateur movies or films from 3rd world countries better.
 

(._.)

Banned
Heh? I don't agree. Digital make people spending way too much energy to focus on small thing like archiving raw files, fixing lens distorting etc etc that only affect 1% of image quality.

And lets face it IQ only affect maybe 10% of the overall artistic value of a photo.

Another example is that lowering entry cost of film making hasn't made overall quality of amateur movies or films from 3rd world countries better.

I don't really mess with raws or anything like that. I'm really new to photography and I just got out for fun and shoot random stuff I see. I like how I can see exactly what I just shot though and if it's overexposed. I also can't light meter with the lens I'm using (on DSLR) so it's nice to be able to fix any issues instead of running through a roll of film and it be overexposed or slightly out of focus. as for IQ affecting the artistic value of an image I would have no idea. I enjoy shooting film. I want to learn more about it but my pictures always seem slightly more sloppy when shot on film.
 
Unfortunately in the digital age this probably isn't quite the distinguishing factor it once was, as the worst photographer probably also has a trashcan, or at least a hard drive, full of bum photos.

The point still stands though. You can read about composition all you want but it doesn't mean any thing unless you go out and shoot.
 

JORMBO

Darkness no more
Natural talent plays a part in it too. Some people have a good eye for things pretty quickly. Other people can take a billion shots over 20 years and still not have it.
 

(._.)

Banned
Ansel Adams: The Camera

I was recommended this as a must read. Just got a copy and am gonna start tonight.

Anybody here have this book?
 

Damaged

Member
Okay this seems as good a place as any to ask this question. I have just picked up a second hand Nikon SB600 speedlight flashgun (was too good a deal to pass up), and I have been thinking about messing about with using it off Camera. Now I know that my D7000 can be set up as a commander and I was hoping to be able to use the SB600 to light up rooms when I am shooting from outside to get the inside lit as well as the outside using the on board flash as the trigger

So in the below shot the dark room interior would be lit by the slave flash.



Will this work / look alright or am I setting up for a fail? will I need the slave flash to be right in the line of sight or will just out of frame in the building work?

I have never experimented with flash photography before and have been relying on long exposures so I'm really clueless on what will work well
 

Rentahamster

Rodent Whores
Okay this seems as good a place as any to ask this question. I have just picked up a second hand Nikon SB600 speedlight flashgun (was too good a deal to pass up), and I have been thinking about messing about with using it off Camera. Now I know that my D7000 can be set up as a commander and I was hoping to be able to use the SB600 to light up rooms when I am shooting from outside to get the inside lit as well as the outside using the on board flash as the trigger

So in the below shot the dark room interior would be lit by the slave flash.



Will this work / look alright or am I setting up for a fail? will I need the slave flash to be right in the line of sight or will just out of frame in the building work?

I have never experimented with flash photography before and have been relying on long exposures so I'm really clueless on what will work well
You can use it like that, however, it does come with issues.

First of all, using it in that particular situation would be difficult because the IR on the commander needs line of sight with the IR receiver on the D600 in order for them to talk to each other. It would probably be really hard to get line of sight for that particular shot. You'd probably want to bounce the light around in the back room to spread the light around, but in doing so, that would make line of sight hard to achieve.

There are a couple ways to get around the line of sight requirement.

Use a bunch of reflective stuff in the hopes that your IR blast somehow connects.

Use a radio popper.

Use a different wireless triggering system. Preferably one that uses radio waves.

A cheap, easy, and somewhat reliable solution would be to get the paul c buff Cybersync triggers and receivers and a manual flash with a mono jack input, like the Lumopro ones.

A cheaper solution would be to use the manual flashes with optical slaves, and trigger it that way, but again, you run into line of sight problems.
 

demon

I don't mean to alarm you but you have dogs on your face
Nothing to contribute really as I'm an amateur at the very most but I discovered recently the wonders of using flash in select circumstances when I never would have thought of using it before. It's not just for taking pictures of your friends in dark bars.
 

SKINNER!

Banned
Manual focus and luck is really all I could offer suggestion wise. I've never actually tried it. What kind of images are you wanting with falling snow?

Luck is usually what I depend on. I was at a gig at a club last week that had the smoke machine on overload and the majority of my pics of the DJ (after trying different settings) were just horrible. Only good ones that came out were 2/3 out of like 15+ shots taken.
 

Flo_Evans

Member
Okay this seems as good a place as any to ask this question. I have just picked up a second hand Nikon SB600 speedlight flashgun (was too good a deal to pass up), and I have been thinking about messing about with using it off Camera. Now I know that my D7000 can be set up as a commander and I was hoping to be able to use the SB600 to light up rooms when I am shooting from outside to get the inside lit as well as the outside using the on board flash as the trigger

So in the below shot the dark room interior would be lit by the slave flash.



Will this work / look alright or am I setting up for a fail? will I need the slave flash to be right in the line of sight or will just out of frame in the building work?

I have never experimented with flash photography before and have been relying on long exposures so I'm really clueless on what will work well

It can bounce around quite a bit. It is hard to say if it would work though. I always seem to get 1 or 2 failures to fire when triggering nikon speed lights optically.

One tip that helps allot is to position the IR reciever on the flash to point in the general direction that the signal is coming from, and you will sometimes need to use one SB-600 on the camera to fire the trigger signal in a useful direction.

For short distances you can use a white business card sometimes to direct the built in flash signal.

On the d7000 I like to setup U2 as "remote flash" set the front function button to pull up the commander mode settings without menu diving, and the DoF preview button to FV lock. FV lock button is great for checking your triggering without making an exposure (and then locking the flash exposure when you get it where you want).

It's a really great feature to have on camera, but has its limits. If you start to really get into strobist stuff radio triggers are the way to go.


Also check out: The Hoshoe Diaries http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0321580141/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Joe McNally is like the nikon speedlight god.
 

Damaged

Member
You can use it like that, however, it does come with issues.

First of all, using it in that particular situation would be difficult because the IR on the commander needs line of sight with the IR receiver on the D600 in order for them to talk to each other. It would probably be really hard to get line of sight for that particular shot. You'd probably want to bounce the light around in the back room to spread the light around, but in doing so, that would make line of sight hard to achieve.

There are a couple ways to get around the line of sight requirement.

Use a bunch of reflective stuff in the hopes that your IR blast somehow connects.

Use a radio popper.

Use a different wireless triggering system. Preferably one that uses radio waves.

A cheap, easy, and somewhat reliable solution would be to get the paul c buff Cybersync triggers and receivers and a manual flash with a mono jack input, like the Lumopro ones.

A cheaper solution would be to use the manual flashes with optical slaves, and trigger it that way, but again, you run into line of sight problems.

Okay, so looking at radio options I'm assuming that the sb600 would have to be on manual? Can ttl be done via radio or just the line of sight commander flash route?

It can bounce around quite a bit. It is hard to say if it would work though. I always seem to get 1 or 2 failures to fire when triggering nikon speed lights optically.

One tip that helps allot is to position the IR reciever on the flash to point in the general direction that the signal is coming from, and you will sometimes need to use one SB-600 on the camera to fire the trigger signal in a useful direction.

For short distances you can use a white business card sometimes to direct the built in flash signal.

On the d7000 I like to setup U2 as "remote flash" set the front function button to pull up the commander mode settings without menu diving, and the DoF preview button to FV lock. FV lock button is great for checking your triggering without making an exposure (and then locking the flash exposure when you get it where you want).

It's a really great feature to have on camera, but has its limits. If you start to really get into strobist stuff radio triggers are the way to go.


Also check out: The Hoshoe Diaries http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0321580141/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Joe McNally is like the nikon speedlight god.

Thanks for the pointers :) will have a look at that book and maybe find a used copy
 

Rentahamster

Rodent Whores
Okay, so looking at radio options I'm assuming that the sb600 would have to be on manual? Can ttl be done via radio or just the line of sight commander flash route?

If you want radio trigger TTL, you need Radio Poppers, or the new Pocket Wizards
 

NysGAF

Member
Something I've noticed folks with DSLRs do is aim off-center and then quickly bring the lens to the target. What's the point of this? What settings are they messing with? My best guesses are something to do with either white balance or focus. I don't know why I think this, just all I could think they might be doing.
 
'Focus and recompose' is a technique if your camera's AF system isn't set up for (or even capable of) guessing what you want to be in focus with the framing you want.
 

NysGAF

Member
So I can use the center point to focus with the old half-depression of the shutter and then move the frame and it will still focus on that one point even though it is now on say, the left side of the frame instead of the center?
 

EviLore

Expansive Ellipses
Staff Member
So I can use the center point to focus with the old half-depression of the shutter and then move the frame and it will still focus on that one point even though it is now on say, the left side of the frame instead of the center?

Yes. Just keep in mind that you don't want to focus and recompose for macro photography, since the parallax will change your focal distance, which will be significant when very fine precision is required.
 

Aurongel

Member
Yep, I focus with the center AF point and reframe. It works fine for some low-mid speed shots. Using all the AF points mostly benefits spontaneous shots.
 

mrkgoo

Member
So I can use the center point to focus with the old half-depression of the shutter and then move the frame and it will still focus on that one point even though it is now on say, the left side of the frame instead of the center?

It's how I work most of the time, but you have to realise that if you have a narrow depth of field that what is in focus at the centre might not be in focus when you recompose.

A lot of the skills and techniques you develop for photography involve understanding these concepts and compensating for them when you capture.
 

Flo_Evans

Member
So I can use the center point to focus with the old half-depression of the shutter and then move the frame and it will still focus on that one point even though it is now on say, the left side of the frame instead of the center?

As long as your camera is set to single focus. Camera AF systems can be quite complex, usually the center sensor is the best one, in addition to the center of the lens being the brightest & sharpest. Making the job of the AF system easier.
 
So I can use the center point to focus with the old half-depression of the shutter and then move the frame and it will still focus on that one point even though it is now on say, the left side of the frame instead of the center?

Yes, with the caveats already mentioned. Some photographers set a button on their camera to be AF-ON instead of the half-shutter, so the AF system is disassociated from the shutter release, making the re-framing easier.

Personally, with my current camera I usually just trust the seemingly telepathic area-AF system to pick the right thing to focus on, using focus & recompose with manual focus lenses and the focus guide indicators before reframing.
 
Something I've noticed folks with DSLRs do is aim off-center and then quickly bring the lens to the target. What's the point of this? What settings are they messing with? My best guesses are something to do with either white balance or focus. I don't know why I think this, just all I could think they might be doing.

I've been a pro photographer for about 18 yrs and I rarely do that for focus. I do that a lot for quick spot-metering in natural light though when I can't use my handheld meter for whatever reason.

On most SLRs, you have an optional spot meter, (which, for noobs is) a meter which only reads the reflected light in a small area in the middle of the frame. This lends killer accuracy in many situations vs the usual full frame or matrix metering, which is often wildly inaccurate, especially in high-contrast scenes, or scenes with a lot of harsh, close (especially in-frame) backlighting. Often this spot meter function is assigned to a button on the camera that must be depressed to activate. (It's been a while since I've had to set up a new camera, but on Canons, IIRC, you can configure this in the custom functions setting.)

The spot meter is the way all old SLRs and most medium cormat cameras with in-camera meters used to operate. When more modern SLRs made full frame or matrix metering the vogue, a lot of photographers never became familiar with spot metering, which is a real shame, cause it's a powerful arrow to have in your quiver.

To use it properly though, you must remember that a spot meter is a reflective meter, meaning that, like all reflective point meters, it always wants to give you a reading to make whatever you are metering the shade of approx. an 18% grey card. Now, obviously it's a rare occasion when you'll have one of those in the scene you're shooting, so, if you can meter off something that approximately that density, (like say a pair of half-faded blue jeans) you'll get a good result. If you want to get good at this, carry a little piece of an 18% gray card around with you and just walk around comparing it to stuff you see in your everyday life often. Try to ignore the color, and just consider the shade the material reflects. You'll get pretty good at spotting things to spot meter from in no time if you really want to learn and make a simple effort.

Similarly, when you get good, you could meter off something you know is too dark or too light, and adjust your exposure accordingly a few stops up or down in the correct direction, once you get practiced at using the meter.

When I autofocus with a normal SLR with the various multiple points, I hardly ever do what you describe, as I'm pretty adept at switching between the closest points on the fly (well, in the canon system anyway) but I do that action a lot for spot metering, because I use the spot meter A LOT in situations that require it.

I hope this long explanation made sense.
 

Danoss

Member
Just keep in mind that you don't want to focus and recompose for macro photography, since the parallax will change your focal distance, which will be significant when very fine precision is required.

You don't autofocus at all with macro photography, since the slightest movement will change where the DOF lies. You set the focus/ratio and move the camera itself backwards or forwards to attain the focus desired.
 

phisheep

NeoGAF's Chief Barrister
...(long explanation)...

I hope this long explanation made sense.

Well it made sense to me at least. Much thanks. And I damn well wish I'd come across the explanation sooner!

I shot film SLR a bunch many years ago, and this is the one thing that confused the hell out of me with DSLR - not having the metering explicit (or not so explicit that I could actually understand it). And reading the manual didn't help a bunch either. I kind of reached the same conclusion myself after spending several hours experimenting on an overcast heavily misty day and eventually worked it out, but it wasn't easy.
 

Dreaver

Member
Good thread!
I was wondering, are most of you using all focusing points or just 1 (or a few)? I've actually always used all points (I didn't even knew you could switch), but using only 1 (like the center one) seems way more beneficial. Edit: Wow, I read almost all replies in this thread except the last few, and they're exactly covering where I am talking about.. I'm an idiot, never mind this!

Also, I'd say my pictures are pretty decent (link) for the kit / 50mm 1.8 lenses. However it happens a lot that I shoot photo's, which aren't 100% sharp, but I've no idea what's causing it. Here's an example:

link to image; shot with 50mm 1.8, F/5.6, iso 100, shutter 1/320 without a tripod (but I'm sure I was pretty steady) in raw mode unedited. Now I shot this photo with almost the exact same settings and it's pretty damn sharp (slightly edited / sharpened though). Does anyone have any clue why my first image is less sharp?
 

phisheep

NeoGAF's Chief Barrister
Does anyone have any clue why my first image is less sharp?

Guessing a bit here, but it looks to me like your focus in the first is a bit (maybe 1/2 cm or so) behind the main bud and there might be some camera shake or subject movement too.

Can't tell how big those things are, but it's just possible you are shooting at below the min focal distance for the lens? Might try it with an extension ring on.
 
Subbing for future use.

I've tried to get into photography multiple times (have a Canon S2 IS) and I've never been able to get a hang of it. I kinda think there's something wrong with my camera because I can never get the lighting right and there's a ... glassiness ... to all my pics but I certainly dont doubt there's a large element of user error in there as well.
 

Porcile

Member
Subbing for future use.

I've tried to get into photography multiple times (have a Canon S2 IS) and I've never been able to get a hang of it. I kinda think there's something wrong with my camera because I can never get the lighting right and there's a ... glassiness ... to all my pics but I certainly dont doubt there's a large element of user error in there as well.

Post some shots!
 

Fezan

Member
I am not good at these things my usually my photo come out just meh whereas people with similar smartphones take picture of the same thing which look extra ordinary
 

Wanace

Member
Great thread. I'm buying a camera in about two weeks and would love some recommendations.

I'm looking to buy the Fuji x100s as it looks to be pretty portable and has gotten pretty good reviews.

I don't want a DSLR because of bulk and if it's bulky I won't be carrying it around with me which will miss the whole point of having a camera.

I'm pretty newbish but I'm also willing to put in the effort to learn and I'm starting to get out and about more as the weather turns warm.

I'm also overseas and traveling a bit and I've been taking very few photos and I'm missing out on sharing a lot of my experiences with family and friends.

So any other recommendations aside from the Fuji? Money isn't a real issue for me, as long as it's $1000-1200.
 
I hope this long explanation made sense.

Yes; I used to do that a ton, not sure why I stopped. Maybe the latitude that RAW gives has spoiled me, or maybe matrix-metering is just better.

Does anyone have any clue why my first image is less sharp?

Wind or other movement? Also, there's very little in the focal plane compared to the flower picture.


I am not good at these things my usually my photo come out just meh whereas people with similar smartphones take picture of the same thing which look extra ordinary

You're going to have to post examples or ask specific questions, otherwise read a book or this thread.
 
Great thread!

I won a Canon EOS 50D three years ago and am slowly (but surely) learning more about photography and how to take better shots. Bryan Peterson's book Understanding Exposure is a great resource and helped a great deal.

Here are a few shots I took during the past month (or so) - most recently a sunrise in Lake Placid, New York and a friend's softball game. Any constructive criticism is welcome.

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8672427258_fca2b429ba_b.jpg

8672426950_7ff367d69d_b.jpg
 

Dreaver

Member
Hey guys, I need some quick advice: a friend of mine works at a denim store, they have a special women night and need a photographer, he asked me because they didn't have a photographer available. I'm quite inexperienced with photograping people and in lowlight conditions.

The store is decent sized (probably quite small compared to US ones...) and there isn't that much light, I just have to shoot random photo's to capture the atmosphere (of both people and the store in general). I have a Rebel t2i with 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 kitlens and 50mm f/1.8. I think I'll use the kitlens because the 50mm is too small (plus a crop factor of 1.6x), however I'm a little bit afraid the quality will suck, I'll take them both anyways.

Does anyone have a few quick suggestions or tips for me for situations for this (like should I use shutter priority)? Also should I use the (build in) flash or not? I'm leaning towards no, but not sure yet. I'd greatly appreciate some quick advice!
 
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