• Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.

2 wheel GAF UNITE!

Thanks guys for the reply about the frame sliders. I have a '07 R6. I rather not cut into my plastics. Woodcraft doesn't make no cut sliders. I have to look at the other brands.

No carbon type frame sliders. So carbon look made out of delrin is fine right?

There's a lot of other brands for you. Graves should be no cut, as well as Sato. You can also check Vortex and GB Racing.
 

Muddimar

Member
^ I've run them on all my bikes since I dropped my first one without them. They def do the job in protecting your plastics and can mean a difference between scratches and cracks. I think they're all about the same no matter the manufacturer, just look out for the cut and no cut ones if you don't want to cut your fairings just to use them.

Anyone have experience with a 520 chain conversion? Looking to run one on my zx10.

A buddy of mine switched his 2008 R6 to a 520 conversion and regrets it. His top speed dropped drastically, to around 135~. Some would argue you don't really need all that top speed anyway. I would imagine with a liter bike it would be a lot different though. If i'm really getting on it on some back roads, I have a hard time keeping the front tire down on my 1000.. I couldn't imagine what a 520 conversion would do. Maybe someone else on here has switched their 1000 to a 520?

edit: Maybe saying "have a hard time keeping the front tire down" was a bad way of putting it. Let's just say I have to be more aware of my clutching/gearing.
 

Muddimar

Member
Thanks guys for the reply about the frame sliders. I have a '07 R6. I rather not cut into my plastics. Woodcraft doesn't make no cut sliders. I have to look at the other brands.

No carbon type frame sliders. So carbon look made out of delrin is fine right?

Maybe race rails would be a better option? I would definitely recommend some sort of protection. I was rear ended at a light about 2 years ago. The guy "didn't see me" and bumped into my side mounted license plate, knocking me over. Unfrotunately for him it damaged the entire right side of my bike, scuffed my plastic. If would of had frame sliders or something to protect my plastic a little better, I think the damage would of been minimal and I wouldn't of been without a bike all summer while it was getting fixed.

They will definitely save your bike from a drop. If you lay it down going through a turn, it's really going to depend on the quality of slider you have. Some sliders are too long and cheap, they will snap or break when you lay your bike down. Others have replaceable pucks that screw into the slider, in case you burn one down in a wreck. Race rails give better protection, but usually cost more, but are not as bulky as a "cage".
 

Watevaman

Member
A buddy of mine switched his 2008 R6 to a 520 conversion and regrets it. His top speed dropped drastically, to around 135~. Some would argue you don't really need all that top speed anyway. I would imagine with a liter bike it would be a lot different though. If i'm really getting on it on some back roads, I have a hard time keeping the front tire down on my 1000.. I couldn't imagine what a 520 conversion would do. Maybe someone else on here has switched their 1000 to a 520?

edit: Maybe saying "have a hard time keeping the front tire down" was a bad way of putting it. Let's just say I have to be more aware of my clutching/gearing.

I don't know much about a "520 conversion" (other than the 520 is the width of the chain), but why would simply switching to a less wide chain affect the top speed? I'd assume the (negligible) lighter weight of the chain would have no affect there. When you convert, do you always do a sprocket change? If so, that would seem to affect acceleration/top speed a lot more than just changing the chain.

I hope one of you can explain these conversions a bit better.
 

Discusguy

Member
Maybe race rails would be a better option? I would definitely recommend some sort of protection. I was rear ended at a light about 2 years ago. The guy "didn't see me" and bumped into my side mounted license plate, knocking me over. Unfrotunately for him it damaged the entire right side of my bike, scuffed my plastic. If would of had frame sliders or something to protect my plastic a little better, I think the damage would of been minimal and I wouldn't of been without a bike all summer while it was getting fixed.

They will definitely save your bike from a drop. If you lay it down going through a turn, it's really going to depend on the quality of slider you have. Some sliders are too long and cheap, they will snap or break when you lay your bike down. Others have replaceable pucks that screw into the slider, in case you burn one down in a wreck. Race rails give better protection, but usually cost more, but are not as bulky as a "cage".


I've been looking real close at 905 race armor. Still thinking real hard about cutting into my plastics. Seen them on another R6 doesn't look bad at all.
 

Muddimar

Member
I don't know much about a "520 conversion" (other than the 520 is the width of the chain), but why would simply switching to a less wide chain affect the top speed? I'd assume the (negligible) lighter weight of the chain would have no affect there. When you convert, do you always do a sprocket change? If so, that would seem to affect acceleration/top speed a lot more than just changing the chain.

I hope one of you can explain these conversions a bit better.

Typically the "520 conversion" includes different sprockets with the kit. I think it's something like +2 for the rear sprocket, -1 in the front, something along those lines. So the chain is designed to fit the different sprockets in the kit. The conversion gives you greater low end torque and power, less high end power, as a result.

Edit: I believe '520' refers to the length of the chain, not width.
 
Thanks guys for the reply about the frame sliders. I have a '07 R6. I rather not cut into my plastics. Woodcraft doesn't make no cut sliders. I have to look at the other brands.

No carbon type frame sliders. So carbon look made out of delrin is fine right?

http://www.motovationusa.com/mvstore/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=144

I have the equivalent of these for my R1. Have seen a few tests of them and I'm confident. I'm not sure I've seen the faux carbon delrin sliders before. Maybe link? RapidCancel's brand suggestions are also worth a look.

If you do get cut sliders, make sure you have a professional cut your fairings unless you really, really, really know what you're doing!
 

Watevaman

Member
Typically the "520 conversion" includes different sprockets with the kit. I think it's something like +2 for the rear sprocket, -1 in the front, something along those lines. So the chain is designed to fit the different sprockets in the kit. The conversion gives you greater low end torque and power, less high end power, as a result.

Edit: I believe '520' refers to the length of the chain, not width.

520 is the width of the chain, that much I know.

And that makes more sense that there are different sprockets in the kit. In reading it seems that the point of the conversion is typically more for track use, as the accelerated wear of the typically aluminum sprockets in the kit wouldn't be worth it for street use.

I run a -1 front on my GS500, definitely quicker off the line but I haven't tested the top end yet.
 

Discusguy

Member
http://www.motovationusa.com/mvstore/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=144

I have the equivalent of these for my R1. Have seen a few tests of them and I'm confident. I'm not sure I've seen the faux carbon delrin sliders before. Maybe link? RapidCancel's brand suggestions are also worth a look.

If you do get cut sliders, make sure you have a professional cut your fairings unless you really, really, really know what you're doing!


Nice!! Looks like I'll be give these a try. Like how solid these look compared to the others.
 
Holy crap, finally got my account fixed. Something weird with my email. Yay! Can post again.

So I bought my first bike last month. Got a nice deal so I ended up buying new (only $500 more than my used budget). 2012 Ninja 250R.

jfjLw1tZupEDz.jpg


Weather is picking up so hopefully I'll get her within the week!
 
Well fuck me.

I had removed the front and rear sprockets from my bike and broken the chain. I put the new rear sprocket on and one of the nuts would not tighten. I looked and the threads that go to the bolt that goes into the rear wheel hub had a lot of smoothed out sections. I have no idea how they got stripped...probably just in removing that one locknut. Those parts have never come off since the bike was put together. SO I ordered a set (6) of bolts which are double sided for the hub and a set of locknuts as well since everything looked a little bit shit. Fucking $74. I still don't fully know how to remove/install those weird bolts even after talking with the service department. Should be fun. No biking until next weekend now.

520 is the width of the chain, that much I know.

And that makes more sense that there are different sprockets in the kit. In reading it seems that the point of the conversion is typically more for track use, as the accelerated wear of the typically aluminum sprockets in the kit wouldn't be worth it for street use.

I run a -1 front on my GS500, definitely quicker off the line but I haven't tested the top end yet.

Funny enough my sprockets look just fine wear-wise after 22,000 miles. Just the chain that needs replacing...though they always tell you to replace them together. My new 520 parts are steel, and tensile strength is supposed to be very high on this EK chain.
 

Watevaman

Member
Well fuck me.

I had removed the front and rear sprockets from my bike and broken the chain. I put the new rear sprocket on and one of the nuts would not tighten. I looked and the threads that go to the bolt that goes into the rear wheel hub had a lot of smoothed out sections. I have no idea how they got stripped...probably just in removing that one locknut. Those parts have never come off since the bike was put together. SO I ordered a set (6) of bolts which are double sided for the hub and a set of locknuts as well since everything looked a little bit shit. Fucking $74. I still don't fully know how to remove/install those weird bolts even after talking with the service department. Should be fun. No biking until next weekend now.



Funny enough my sprockets look just fine wear-wise after 22,000 miles. Just the chain that needs replacing...though they always tell you to replace them together. My new 520 parts are steel, and tensile strength is supposed to be very high on this EK chain.

Do you mean studs?

 
Typically the "520 conversion" includes different sprockets with the kit. I think it's something like +2 for the rear sprocket, -1 in the front, something along those lines. So the chain is designed to fit the different sprockets in the kit. The conversion gives you greater low end torque and power, less high end power, as a result.

Edit: I believe '520' refers to the length of the chain, not width.

520 refers to the width of the chain. It doesn't have anything to do with affecting the top speed, the fact that he went -1/+2 is what changed his top speed. If he had went +1 up front instead, it would've increased his top speed. I actually want to change my gearing on my track bike to -1/+2 for a better drive out of corners. I might also do it on my liter bike as well, it's about to need a new chain.

Funny enough my sprockets look just fine wear-wise after 22,000 miles. Just the chain that needs replacing...though they always tell you to replace them together. My new 520 parts are steel, and tensile strength is supposed to be very high on this EK chain.

I heard good things about the EK chain. Was also debating about the DiD chain. Might just flip a coin and see which one I get. Which brand sprockets did you end up getting?
 
Do you mean studs?

Yes, that type.

I heard good things about the EK chain. Was also debating about the DiD chain. Might just flip a coin and see which one I get. Which brand sprockets did you end up getting?

DiD is supposed to have that X ring chain, right? I got the EK MVXZ 520 chain because the chart I looked at showed it having slightly higher tensile strength than DiD. However, DiD claims the X ring chains lower wear. Probably cannot go wrong with either.

I got Driven sprockets. All steel, no aluminum as I know the life expectancy is much shorter on the aluminum kits.
 

Aberrant

Member
My 1996 Honda CBR250RR. Revs to 18,500 rpm. Completely original with only 8,000 kms (5,000 miles). Originally belonged to a guy that had cancer so he stopped riding it and it sat in his garage for almost 10 years before he died.

Unfortunately, I don't have a motorcycle licence =[.

RHhAGZM.jpg
 

Dougald

Member
Yes, that type.


I had a broken stud on the final drive unit on my ST1100 last year when I changed my swingarm. It was a bastard to remove to say the least.

My advice? Buy a stud extractor which will grip it for you, then attach it to your socket wrench or a cordless drill. Also, soak overnight in WD-40 first. Good luck! Mine was on so tight I had to use a heat gun as well, which is always a good tip for stubborn bolts.
 
Holy crap, finally got my account fixed. Something weird with my email. Yay! Can post again.

So I bought my first bike last month. Got a nice deal so I ended up buying new (only $500 more than my used budget). 2012 Ninja 250R.

jfjLw1tZupEDz.jpg


Weather is picking up so hopefully I'll get her within the week!


Very nice. Take it easy the first few times out :D.


My 1996 Honda CBR250RR. Revs to 18,500 rpm. Completely original with only 8,000 kms (5,000 miles). Originally belonged to a guy that had cancer so he stopped riding it and it sat in his garage for almost 10 years before he died.

Unfortunately, I don't have a motorcycle licence =[.

RHhAGZM.jpg


Gorgeous, good reason to get a license, I'd say.
 
Holy crap, finally got my account fixed. Something weird with my email. Yay! Can post again.

So I bought my first bike last month. Got a nice deal so I ended up buying new (only $500 more than my used budget). 2012 Ninja 250R.

jfjLw1tZupEDz.jpg


Weather is picking up so hopefully I'll get her within the week!

Sweet! You're going to love that bike.
 

Watevaman

Member
Yes, that type.



DiD is supposed to have that X ring chain, right? I got the EK MVXZ 520 chain because the chart I looked at showed it having slightly higher tensile strength than DiD. However, DiD claims the X ring chains lower wear. Probably cannot go wrong with either.

I got Driven sprockets. All steel, no aluminum as I know the life expectancy is much shorter on the aluminum kits.

I know to install studs you get it situated by hand and then what you do is screw two nuts on them. In order to tighten it, tighten down the top nut until it's touching the bottom and then use a wrench to tighten the top nut until the stud is tight. I'd imagine to get the old ones out (at least the ones you can), do the same thing with the two nuts, except this time loosen the bottom nut so that it pushes against the top one.
 
I know to install studs you get it situated by hand and then what you do is screw two nuts on them. In order to tighten it, tighten down the top nut until it's touching the bottom and then use a wrench to tighten the top nut until the stud is tight. I'd imagine to get the old ones out (at least the ones you can), do the same thing with the two nuts, except this time loosen the bottom nut so that it pushes against the top one.

I think this is what the guy at the service counter was trying to explain to me, but you made much more sense. Thanks!

Seems that is the correct method. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=66ATKL4G04M
 
Very nice. Take it easy the first few times out :D.

Sweet! You're going to love that bike.

Thanks, I'm definitely going to take my time getting used to her. I already took the safety course and have all my gear.

I have a set of frame sliders I'm going to put on (Shoguns). Figured it was an inexpensive investment compared to replacing plastics, if I should drop it. And the sliders would be pretty easy to resell later if/when I get a new bike.
 
Anyone used these gloves? Knox Biomech. I tried them on and love the way they cinch.

I have the Handroids and they are excellent. Knox are top notch. The only alternative I'd say is Held, but they are not supposed to offer the same dexterity. However, Held are more durable from crash reports. It's a trade-off, I guess.

edit: I crash tested Handroids and they're good stuff.
 
I have the Handroids and they are excellent. Knox are top notch. The only alternative I'd say is Held, but they are not supposed to offer the same dexterity. However, Held are more durable from crash reports. It's a trade-off, I guess.

edit: I crash tested Handroids and they're good stuff.

Awesome, thanks. I find my current gloves are getting caught up in the sleeves of my jacket. I think the gauntlets are too small, feels like if I do up the gauntlet tight the sleeve is trying to push the gloves off my fingers. PITA.

The boa system felt perfect.
 
Holy crap, finally got my account fixed. Something weird with my email. Yay! Can post again.

So I bought my first bike last month. Got a nice deal so I ended up buying new (only $500 more than my used budget). 2012 Ninja 250R.

jfjLw1tZupEDz.jpg


Weather is picking up so hopefully I'll get her within the week!

I almost bought that exact bike, but I wasnt feeling the red.

I just purchased this guy yesterday last one in Edmonton. In the crate it was cheaper than what I could find used.

D7uySP1l.jpg
 
I almost bought that exact bike, but I wasnt feeling the red.

I just purchased this guy yesterday last one in Edmonton. In the crate it was cheaper than what I could find used.

D7uySP1l.jpg

Nice! They only had the red left here (I'm in Ontario, a couple hours outside of Toronto).

Mind if I ask what you paid?
 
Nice! They only had the red left here (I'm in Ontario, a couple hours outside of Toronto).

Mind if I ask what you paid?

It was 3800 then after all the other fees it came to 4500 out the door. They included 2 year full warrenty 2 year free roadside assistance. And gave me 20% off all the gear I wanted...jacket, gloves, helmet.
 
It was 3800 then after all the other fees it came to 4500 out the door. They included 2 year full warrenty 2 year free roadside assistance. And gave me 20% off all the gear I wanted...jacket, gloves, helmet.
Nice! Mine was also 4500, with the 2 year warranty and whatnot. Not the special edition but was more interested in the red. Where I live there aren't many moto shops so I was happy to get a nice deal locally.
 
Nice! Mine was also 4500, with the 2 year warranty and whatnot. Not the special edition but was more interested in the red. Where I live there aren't many moto shops so I was happy to get a nice deal locally.

Same here there was only 2 Kawasaki dealer ships, at first he said 4800 I told him to go do better lol. I said my ceiling was 5000 with all the safety gear I needed. SO in the end I walked out with everything for 5200.
 

Bad_Boy

time to take my meds
JOE ROCKET RKT-201
241440099.jpg


or

Scorpion EXO 1100?
Scorpion_EXO_1100_Solid_Motorcycle_Helmet_MATTE_Black__72636.1350327290.800.800.jpg


scorpion has more features for about 40 bucks more. joe rocket is lighter and has the nice carbon fiber look.
 
JOE ROCKET RKT-201
http://images.rakuten.com/PI/0/300/241440099.jpg[IMG]

or

Scorpion EXO 1100?
[IMG]http://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server1600/90d78/products/6557/images/18259/Scorpion_EXO_1100_Solid_Motorcycle_Helmet_MATTE_Black__72636.1350327290.800.800.jpg[IMG]

scorpion has more features for about 40 bucks more. joe rocket is lighter and has the nice carbon fiber look.[/QUOTE]

Which one fits better?

edit: If you care, the JR one is Snell 2010 certified, while the Scorpion one is ECE 22-05, apparently.
 

Bad_Boy

time to take my meds
the scorpion will probably have a better fit due to the air pump system. i haven't found a place where i can try either on yet.
 

Watevaman

Member
I have the 1100 but I haven't tried the Joe Rocket. I really enjoy the Scorpion though. It's comfortable and the wind noise isn't terrible. I rarely use the air pump but it comes in handy sometimes.
 
damn, that's nice. black with yellow is the colorway of all my stuff

Thanks, basically I showed a few pics to girls I know at work and asked them what they thought.

5 out of 5 girls told me they wanted to "fuck that bike" so it was a pretty easy decision.
 
What? Why?

I can't ride it for very long w/o my arm getting very numb. and I want something my wife and I can ride in a little more comfort, and less gear. also the weather around here is so unpredictable it gets annoying to take the bike out on a seemingly nice day, and have it be frigid or raining w/o warning. So I am looking at getting an NA, NB or NC Miata or preferably (because i like the way it drove) a MR2-S.
 
I can't ride it for very long w/o my arm getting very numb. and I want something my wife and I can ride in a little more comfort, and less gear. also the weather around here is so unpredictable it gets annoying to take the bike out on a seemingly nice day, and have it be frigid or raining w/o warning. So I am looking at getting an NA, NB or NC Miata or preferably (because i like the way it drove) a MR2-S.

All the miatas around here are stupid expensive, but I would love to have an NA or NB myself. I've wanted one for a long time, actually.

On a different note, got my bike insurance set up today. Shop is preparing the bike and I should have it before the end of the week. Woohoo!
 
Top Bottom