jakonovski
Member
Work on your souplesse by riding fixed gear and/or high cadence seems to be the one bit of advice that has stuck through the ages, so I've decided to go with that. As far as pedaling technique goes.
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Bicycle age
- Thread starter elrechazado
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Psychotext
Member
Souplesse?
Darth Pinche
Member
Being extra polite when asking for more soup.
I think it is a roadie term for working on your pedal stroke.
To work on a soupless cycling problem, you stabilize your bike by switching to a low fixed gear and riding high-cadence. Mastering this controlled environment will get you smooth enough to carry a bowl of soup while switching gears, riding slow-cadence and standing, or mountain biking.
It's considered poor form to spill soup on other cyclists during a group ride.
It's considered poor form to spill soup on other cyclists during a group ride.
Psychotext
Member
Bizarre. But yeah, high cadence is good, up to a point anyway. I say up to a point because many high cadence studies were performed on pro cyclists who were doped to the eyeballs on EPO etc, which obviously increases the body's ability for oxygen delivery to the muscles... which is exactly what you need for super high cadences.
I've been working on both ends of my range over the winter, and now I'm quite happy to stick it in a huge gear and grind along at 50rpm when required. I'm still not quite as good at high cadences though. I really struggle going past 130rpm at any meaningful power output.
I've been working on both ends of my range over the winter, and now I'm quite happy to stick it in a huge gear and grind along at 50rpm when required. I'm still not quite as good at high cadences though. I really struggle going past 130rpm at any meaningful power output.
jakonovski
Member
I've been reading Eddy Merckx's biography, ok?
Sorry guys, I didn't word myself well there. I have clipless mtb pedals. But I'm thinking about changing to clipless road pedals for the racer instead. That's what I'm wondering about - differences between clipless mtb pedals and clipless road pedals. Only difference I can see is that the "platform" has a larger area on the road pedals. And the dedicated shoes are maybe a little stiffer than mtb-shoes, and even harder to walk with. Will that small difference in the pedals, along with any difference in the shoes, make, uh, a difference?
In short: why these? My buddy claims they're much better to use on the racer than his old mtb clipless pedals, and I don't really trust him on it.
I probably won't buy new pedals just for a miniscule advantage in power transfer since I'm not a serious competitive rider. But it would be interesting to know the reason why racer bikes have their own kind of clipless pedal that, to my eyes, actually seem less usable than the mtb equivalent.
Psychotext
Member
I really wouldn't bother.
It might give you some sort of psychological edge if you're planning on racing, but I've beaten many a waxed roadie in flappy mtb gear using standard mtb cleats... so yeah, really not essential. They're much stiffer, and harder to get your foot out of when you actually need to. Also far more likely to destroy your knees if you set them up incorrectly. They are generally lighter and more aerodynamic though.
I have SPDs setup on all my bikes, and expensive racy (stiff as hell) SPD slippers for when I feel the need to go particularly fast, on or off road.
It might give you some sort of psychological edge if you're planning on racing, but I've beaten many a waxed roadie in flappy mtb gear using standard mtb cleats... so yeah, really not essential. They're much stiffer, and harder to get your foot out of when you actually need to. Also far more likely to destroy your knees if you set them up incorrectly. They are generally lighter and more aerodynamic though.
I have SPDs setup on all my bikes, and expensive racy (stiff as hell) SPD slippers for when I feel the need to go particularly fast, on or off road.
or that I'm clumsy, most of the time it happens when I'm dragging the bike up the stairs and out the door.
jakonovski
Member
I'm also thinking that few of us really need 3 point pedals to apply adequate power. SPDs should be enough for most. Personally I think Shimano's touring pedals might be good, like the A520. It's light, aerodynamic and has better foot support. Just like real roadie pedals:
Psychotext
Member
They look nice enough.
TarpitCarnivore
Member
I've been trying to get better at high cadence through TrainerRoad but I consistently top out around 110-120. I'll start bopping and shifting around far to much to try and maintain the cadence. My comfortable cadence is around 95-98 and 110 when I'm in a paceline or got a nice tail wind. On hills I try to stay in the 65-75 range but it depends on the hill.
Psychotext
Member
Depends on crank length for me (unsurprisingly). On 170s I'll happily spin at 95 for long periods. On 175s I'm much more comfortable at 90.
I tend to spin up hills unless they're short. Usually 100 or so. If they're short I'll stand up at 80rpm and destroy them before my heart packs in.
I tend to spin up hills unless they're short. Usually 100 or so. If they're short I'll stand up at 80rpm and destroy them before my heart packs in.
TarpitCarnivore
Member
I'm just excited to be able to get out to hills again. With the snow and ice I've been reluctant to venture out onto some of the hills for fear of black ice. There are some hill like workouts on TrainerRoad, but they're not the same experience for me. I prefer the long and steady (where I can find them).
Psychotext
Member
Yeah, even with the front wheel elevated, you'll never get the same experience on a trainer.
Interesting read. I disagree with most of it based on my own experiences, but interesting nevertheless. YMMV, I guess. Sharing the load instantly helped my aching legs on a stiff climb this evening, for example. It's the only way I was able to maintain my speed. I equate it to engaging four-wheel-drive in slippery conditions.
*shrugs*
Psychotext
Member
A lot of people do, but it's been backed up in testing. Doesn't really help that it's going against a lot of long held beliefs that people aren't easily willing to give up either.
It doesn't entirely make sense to me, but I've been alternating between them and to be honest, in terms of power output, I haven't really found either to have an advantage... but it did take quite a bit of practice to improve my pedalling technique in flats. Being attached can cover up a multitude of flaws.
Edit - Related, I just did a 1.5 hour turbo trainer session of flats. Not for that purpose, but because bad cleat position tweaked my knee on that 12 hour ride. Wanted to make sure I didn't make things worse.
It doesn't entirely make sense to me, but I've been alternating between them and to be honest, in terms of power output, I haven't really found either to have an advantage... but it did take quite a bit of practice to improve my pedalling technique in flats. Being attached can cover up a multitude of flaws.
Edit - Related, I just did a 1.5 hour turbo trainer session of flats. Not for that purpose, but because bad cleat position tweaked my knee on that 12 hour ride. Wanted to make sure I didn't make things worse.
Gray Matter
Member
I'll be buying my bike in the next few weeks. Getting excited.
jakonovski
Member
I sometimes dip my heels really low on hard ascents, seems to engage fresh(er) muscles and makes it easier to keep up the power. Works on flats and spds.
Psychotext
Member
Actually improves grip too. Have you considered some coaching jakonovski? You'd be amazed how much you'll pick up in just a day or two.
jakonovski
Member
I've thought about it, and I'll have to see once the season starts in earnest. There's this mtb centre up north that sounds kind of awesome but the trip would be a bit pricey.
Psychotext
Member
I had someone come to me for one of my sessions.
Darth Pinche
Member
I don't think going clipless would make a difference. But going to a show with a stiff sole or getting an insole with arch support would. I use Superfeet insoles in my cycling shoes and they work great.
Psychotext
Member
Yeah, definitely the insoles. I'm using the Specialized BG insoles which made a massive difference for me.
Make sure you do the arch test they recommend first (basically wet your feet and stand on a bit of cardboard). That way you can tell what type you need.
Make sure you do the arch test they recommend first (basically wet your feet and stand on a bit of cardboard). That way you can tell what type you need.
Psychotext
Member
No harm in getting properly fitted if you have the cash.
TarpitCarnivore
Member
Fit is always a good idea. Remember though that your body will adjust and shift as you feel more comfortable on a bike so going back in a month or two for an adjustment might not be a bad idea. I'm two years into my fit and I'm probably long over do for an adjustment.
There's a place near me that does bike fits with Retul. It's expensive, but so is dealing with nagging injuries from a improper fit.
There's a place near me that does bike fits with Retul. It's expensive, but so is dealing with nagging injuries from a improper fit.
Psychotext
Member
Anyone here got a GoPro? I'm thinking of grabbing a Hero4 Silver. My initial thought was for doing timelapse stuff over very long rides, but apparently timelapse uses up as much battery as standard recording... so not going to work long distance.
Might just grab one for shorter rides. Probably just the descents.
Might just grab one for shorter rides. Probably just the descents.
jakonovski
Member
Hero4 Silver seems pretty good, but since it's on the higher end already I'd go for the Black Edition for the best bitrate.
HIGH DEF JEFF
Banned
I have a Hero3 Black bought specifically for when I ride in the city (NYC).
Over the winter I got one of those 100 dollar GoPros so I can get front and back video.
I have never been able to find the ideal mount for it.
I have multiple mounts GoPro centric mounts for the handlebars but they all suck because they use that hinge and screw method.
I also bought this over the winter:
http://www.amazon.com/Sony-Handlebar-Mount/dp/B00K0NU4C6
I hope it elimnates a lot of the potential for the hinge coming loose and the camera moving positions.
As for the second camera..no idea where I am going to put it.
I don't wear a helmet..even if I did I wouldnt mount it to that because of how goofy it looks.I have seen people attach them to the strap of their backpacks..might try that.
For the bike..the settings on the new cheap GoPro are very limited and pretty perfect for my needs., I think its 720p60 and 1080p30. With the Hero Black I find myself tinkering with different resolutions, FOV and frame rate and never really find anything I like or need.
The multiple settings, specifically FOV, on the Hero3 come in handy with my drone.
Over the winter I got one of those 100 dollar GoPros so I can get front and back video.
I have never been able to find the ideal mount for it.
I have multiple mounts GoPro centric mounts for the handlebars but they all suck because they use that hinge and screw method.
I also bought this over the winter:
http://www.amazon.com/Sony-Handlebar-Mount/dp/B00K0NU4C6
I hope it elimnates a lot of the potential for the hinge coming loose and the camera moving positions.
As for the second camera..no idea where I am going to put it.
I don't wear a helmet..even if I did I wouldnt mount it to that because of how goofy it looks.I have seen people attach them to the strap of their backpacks..might try that.
For the bike..the settings on the new cheap GoPro are very limited and pretty perfect for my needs., I think its 720p60 and 1080p30. With the Hero Black I find myself tinkering with different resolutions, FOV and frame rate and never really find anything I like or need.
The multiple settings, specifically FOV, on the Hero3 come in handy with my drone.
Yeah, I nearly bought a GoPro this time last year but I don't think I'd get much use from it after the initial new-toy buzz had died down. My new imminent phone (S6 Edge) has pretty impressive video capabilities (2160p@30fps, 1080p@60fps, 720p@120fps, HDR, dual-video rec) so I think a rugged case and a bike mount for that will probably suffice for the odd occasion I want to film myself crashing.
Psychotext
Member
I considered it, but I'm literally never going to make use of those resolutions, so there's not really any point. 1080p60 is fine by me.
Generally the best footage from cycling comes from chest straps. Depends what type of cycling you're doing though I guess.
jakonovski
Member
A wide angle camera is pretty good for commuting. Like they do in Russia.
TarpitCarnivore
Member
I bought one for shorter rides (>90 minutes). The battery life is not very good at all, even when you have it on a lower quality and turn off WiFi. The mounting hardware for the GoPros are also terrible. They're big, clunky and feel really cheap. I currently have a K-Edge for it, but will probably switch over to the newer one that has mounts for Garmin and GoPro in one piece (http://www.acecosportgroup.com/k-ed...dge-combo-mounts/k-edge-aero-combo-mount.html).
Psychotext
Member
Does it not match what they state on their website?
Down the page on this they list the battery life in a bunch of different modes: http://shop.gopro.com/cameras/hero4-silver/CHDHY-401-master.html#/tab2
Edit - Ooh... that's really strange. The Silver was supposed to have worse battery life than the Black because of the LCD (if you're using it, of course), but if you look at the spec pages for both it seems to be the opposite. WIth WIFI etc off you get 1:20 of recording 1080p/60 with the Black, and 1:40 with the Silver. I guess maybe because of higher power draw circuitry to handle the higher bitrates.
That's backed up by this vid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QIkuH8kij4w (The hero 3+ black wins fairly easily)
TarpitCarnivore
Member
On 720p quality I can record for ~90 minutes with the GoPro Hero 3
Psychotext
Member
Ugh... the site states you should be getting 3hrs with WIFI off.
TarpitCarnivore
Member
Not sure what frame rate I'm using, but it's plausible the Hero4 is that much better on battery life.
Psychotext
Member
I got that number from the specs page for the 3: http://shop.gopro.com/cameras/hero3-white/CHDHE-302-master.html#/tab2
Psychotext
Member
24 hour attempt currently underway: http://berlinbicycleweek.com/tag/24h_world_record
Live tracking: http://www.christophstrasser.at/index.php?id=831
Looking at 270w+ power output for 24 hours. Mind blowing.
Live tracking: http://www.christophstrasser.at/index.php?id=831
Looking at 270w+ power output for 24 hours. Mind blowing.
Darth Pinche
Member
Anyone here planning to attend the Sea Otter Classic in April? I am going and it will be my first time there. I used to attend the Norba and World Cup races at Big Bear years ago and recently have been going to Crankworx in Whistler. Sounds like it should be a blast!
jakonovski
Member
I went up this hill (yes I pushed).
Psychotext
Member
Hard to really tell how steep that is. Looks bloody steep from the top.
jakonovski
Member
It's right next to a small ski jump. It's not really ridable, but some local cyclocrossers like it anyway (or because of that). The part they use was still covered in ice so I didn't go there.
This should give a sense of how steep it is:
This should give a sense of how steep it is:
calculator says 29%
I have a Gopro Black Hero 3, but rarely use it because the battery runs out so fast. A little disappointing, but the image quality is great. Might buy a battery pack to squeeze more out of it.
But that's not the point of my post. This is: Polish cyclist Krystian Herba cycles (jumps) up 3139 stair steps in the Taipei 101 skyscraper. That's something.
But that's not the point of my post. This is: Polish cyclist Krystian Herba cycles (jumps) up 3139 stair steps in the Taipei 101 skyscraper. That's something.
Psychotext
Member
I can probably do that hill... but wouldn't enjoy it for long.
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