Psychotext
Member
Tour of Sufferlandria done for another year. Glad to see the back of it. Wasn't feeling it at all this year, but then it's also the first year I've done it in conjunction with my weight training.
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Bicycle age
- Thread starter elrechazado
- Start date
TarpitCarnivore
Member
Last year I pushed for 60 minute minimum on all indoor rides, but this year I'm doing 45. If the TrainerRoad ride is 60+ I just make it through whatever interval I need to. It's likely not going to be as effective in the long but for right now it's been the ideal spot for me to get a good hard workout and enough time to stretch.
Psychotext
Member
I'm a great believer that doing something is always far better than doing nothing... even if it's just to keep from falling completely into lethargy.
...also, there's some MONSTER 45min workouts on trainerroad.
Not least this one: https://www.trainerroad.com/cycling/workouts/64064-sufferfest-half-is-easy
...also, there's some MONSTER 45min workouts on trainerroad.
Not least this one: https://www.trainerroad.com/cycling/workouts/64064-sufferfest-half-is-easy
TarpitCarnivore
Member
I forget, do you need to use the videos with SF workouts? I've bought a few, but I don't think I have this one.
Psychotext
Member
Not really, they're entertaining, and they give you pointers on whether to stand / what cadence to use, but it's not essential.
TarpitCarnivore
Member
Ok, perfect. I really only like Downward Spiral, but the video is so old for me at this point. A lot of the videos don't much anyway to be honest. So I usually have something else playing and just mute the video audio.
Psychotext
Member
The old videos are awful too, presentation wise, which doesn't help.
I think it's what you're used to. 50F is about 10C and where I live the average temperature is above that for three months a year. Not going out in temperatures below it really isn't a viable option for me, I get cabin fever after staying indoors for few days. If not for anything else at least for the duration of my commute.
Psychotext
Member
I like it when it's cold, just wrap up warm, job done. Whole different story if it's wet and windy though. 
I like it when it's cold, just wrap up warm, job done. Whole different story if it's wet and windy though.
That's why below freezing temperatures are ideal in winter.
Psychotext
Member
For mountain biking, it tends to make the ground much harder too, which saves you from the nightmare of a mud filled ride.
TarpitCarnivore
Member
I would go out but I'm usually really tense for one, but more importantly there is road salt and such everywhere. Just don't feel like dealing with that headache. Easier to just wait until we get back above 45/50 on a regular basis.
And generally if you're just riding on cycle paths, the colder it gets the more grip you have. At below -5C riding on packed snow, like the winter maintenance is done here, it's as good or even better than asphalt. Much smoother at least.
That's another difference, road salt is generally not used here. It's basically reserved for the main motorways in near freezing temperatures.
jakonovski
Member
For me the issues start at -15C or so, when my face starts to freeze and the cold air hurts the lungs. And the freezing of components I posted about earlier.
Marky Mark
Member
Psychotext
Member
Win.
Psychotext
Member
1x12 speed mountain bike gears with a massive range? Do want.
http://www.bikeradar.com/mtb/gear/article/srams-12-speed-mtb-group-making-sense-of-the-gossip-46344/
http://www.bikeradar.com/mtb/gear/article/srams-12-speed-mtb-group-making-sense-of-the-gossip-46344/
jakonovski
Member
I like the idea but the prices are getting out of hand. I'm not paying hundreds for a cassette.
Psychotext
Member
I don't really mind that idea as long as it has a reasonable life.
SRAM 42t cogs already have issues with bending and this would be even worse. I've been riding an xtr 1x setup the last 2 weeks and I just don't get it vs their 2x system. Front shifting is so good right now. It's so much easier to keep your speed up in rolling terrain by shifting once up front then 8 times in the back. 1x looks cleaner but who cares when you are riding your bike.
Psychotext
Member
Depends on what that particular cog is made of, there are people doing 45 teeth with no problems, and I don't really care about lightness. On the subject of looks, that's largely irrelevant. Most people prefer 1x for reasons of chain retention when you're taking bigger hits.
That aside, the major problem for me is that many new bikes have been designed without the ability to add a front mech, and I don't want to have to choose between spinning out on the flats or having to walk some hills.
That aside, the major problem for me is that many new bikes have been designed without the ability to add a front mech, and I don't want to have to choose between spinning out on the flats or having to walk some hills.
Psychotext
Member
Sure, they're few and far between at the moment. It just happens to be the case that two out of the four frames I'm looking at for my next bike are that way.
jakonovski
Member
I really hate front mechs, the gear range is super useful but they're so fiddly especially on a mtb.
I just got a 42t expander cog for the hardtail, we'll see if 32-42 is enough. There's a couple of hills here that I just can't get up on the current low gear of 32-36.
I just got a 42t expander cog for the hardtail, we'll see if 32-42 is enough. There's a couple of hills here that I just can't get up on the current low gear of 32-36.
Psychotext
Member
32 / 42 is fairly big, you should be able to get up most things with that. Assuming you're running a 650b wheel, that gives you 18.9 gear inches.
I'm running 26 / 36 which can pretty much get me up anything that's not basically vertical (17.2 gear inches).
I'm running 26 / 36 which can pretty much get me up anything that's not basically vertical (17.2 gear inches).
TarpitCarnivore
Member
Does anyone subscribe or read "The Ride Journal"? Been looking for something to read that isn't a weekly or monthly and this seems like it may be good.
Let me tell another story about my city, the great cycling city of the north.
Last summer the city opened the first on street cycle lanes on one street in the city centre. It was covered in local newspaper and even by the national broadcasting company, and it was heralded as a first step towards more cycle friendly city. No-one bothered to mention that the cycle lanes are 300 metres long, on both sides of the street.
There is another issue about the on street cycle lanes, let's see if you can spot it from the picture I took today on my way home:
This was the first time I heard of it. Seems interesting and they have downloadable past issues. I'll definately check it out.
Last summer the city opened the first on street cycle lanes on one street in the city centre. It was covered in local newspaper and even by the national broadcasting company, and it was heralded as a first step towards more cycle friendly city. No-one bothered to mention that the cycle lanes are 300 metres long, on both sides of the street.
There is another issue about the on street cycle lanes, let's see if you can spot it from the picture I took today on my way home:
This was the first time I heard of it. Seems interesting and they have downloadable past issues. I'll definately check it out.
Christoff Yurievich
Member
Turning a bike into a slightly different bike: Part One: It's Specialized
So, here's a mountain bike of a type that the mountain biking community no longer bikes many mountains on. Specialized stumpjumper from 1984, although some components and the powder coat are definitely more recent.
Anyway, goodbye big knobs.
Gave the wheels something resembling truing while I was at this. They were... not spinning very straight.
Hello less big knobs. These tires had better be excellent, because I paid a whopping five dollars. Each.
They'd also better be excellent because they're called DOUBLE FIGHTER II. I was hoping that the name was a sort of dramatic redundancy, but apparently it's merely a sequel designation. Turns out DOUBLE FIGHTER is a trilogy.
So, here's a mountain bike of a type that the mountain biking community no longer bikes many mountains on. Specialized stumpjumper from 1984, although some components and the powder coat are definitely more recent.
Anyway, goodbye big knobs.
Gave the wheels something resembling truing while I was at this. They were... not spinning very straight.
Hello less big knobs. These tires had better be excellent, because I paid a whopping five dollars. Each.
They'd also better be excellent because they're called DOUBLE FIGHTER II. I was hoping that the name was a sort of dramatic redundancy, but apparently it's merely a sequel designation. Turns out DOUBLE FIGHTER is a trilogy.
Psychotext
Member
lol... terrifying.
So, the Miyata has been creaking under high pedal pressure. Sounded sort of like it was coming from the crank region but hard to tell. Could not figure out what the heck this creaking was, and couldn't reproduce it except while actually on the bike with my legs applying high power. Eventually decided to have a modern sealed BB popped in there, see if that helped.
I guess that's all fine and dandy, and probably an improvement over the old caged bearings. However.
Turns out the creaking was just my rear wheel QR skewer wanting to be a bit tighter.
Seriously.
I REPLACED A BB FOR A LOOSE QR SKEWER.
x.x
I guess that's all fine and dandy, and probably an improvement over the old caged bearings. However.
Turns out the creaking was just my rear wheel QR skewer wanting to be a bit tighter.
Seriously.
I REPLACED A BB FOR A LOOSE QR SKEWER.
x.x
Psychotext
Member
XD
Gray Matter
Member
My local bike shop is having a sale next week, I think it's finally time to take the plunge and buy that roadie I've been wanting.
Turning a bike into a slightly different bike: Part Two: HTupolev's butchery knows no bounds
I removed everything from the bars. Why would I do something like that?
So, uh, this is the post-cleaning image of these handlebars. A decent amount of elbow grease and isopropyl went into that pristine result. I guess that's what you get when you buy $5 parts.
Ah well, here we go.
Goodbye straight bar.
Drop bar almost looks like in it's natural habitat!
The potential issue with this stage: although vintage rigid mountain bikes are a lot like vintage touring bikes, they tend to have lengthy top tubes. This drop bar does have unusually short reach though, so I might be fine.
I removed everything from the bars. Why would I do something like that?
So, uh, this is the post-cleaning image of these handlebars. A decent amount of elbow grease and isopropyl went into that pristine result. I guess that's what you get when you buy $5 parts.
Ah well, here we go.
Goodbye straight bar.
Drop bar almost looks like in it's natural habitat!
The potential issue with this stage: although vintage rigid mountain bikes are a lot like vintage touring bikes, they tend to have lengthy top tubes. This drop bar does have unusually short reach though, so I might be fine.
jakonovski
Member
Fuck me I spent an hour trying to lift Ice Spikers (with inner tubes) onto the rim and only got one reasonably straight. They're ridable but I can feel the lump rolling on a smooth surface.
I was using pink Muc-Off washing liquid to lube the bead and then pumped the pressure to max and now they're waiting overnight on the off chance the bead will snap to place at some point. Any other tips? CO2 cartrige maybe?
I was using pink Muc-Off washing liquid to lube the bead and then pumped the pressure to max and now they're waiting overnight on the off chance the bead will snap to place at some point. Any other tips? CO2 cartrige maybe?
Christoff Yurievich
Member
http://www.jensonusa.com/Park-Tool-PTS-1-Tire-Seater
Or you can fudge it if you have an adjustable wrench and patience to do it carefully.
But then that's what I'm about to do, take a on-one 29er and turn it into a commuter/ride-around bike so I can give the roadie a rest in these winter months.
Or you can fudge it if you have an adjustable wrench and patience to do it carefully.
OR you might be aero as fuck. That's an interesting amount of reach you've potentially got there.
But then that's what I'm about to do, take a on-one 29er and turn it into a commuter/ride-around bike so I can give the roadie a rest in these winter months.
Psychotext
Member
There are cheaper versions that do similar things...
http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/categ.../review-var-tools-rp42500-tyre-tool-11-44397/
Not had cause to use mine yet, but it seems like a good bit of kit.
As for getting the rim seated, you can go way past max pressure (that's max pressure for riding), just make sure you put a sheet over it, and wear ear defenders just in case.
I've been in the room when a tyre went and I couldn't hear for about an hour. MAWP
http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/categ.../review-var-tools-rp42500-tyre-tool-11-44397/
Not had cause to use mine yet, but it seems like a good bit of kit.
As for getting the rim seated, you can go way past max pressure (that's max pressure for riding), just make sure you put a sheet over it, and wear ear defenders just in case.
I've been in the room when a tyre went and I couldn't hear for about an hour. MAWP
i am non functional in cold weather. partly due to acclimation to texas heat and partly due to not having any body fat. i think at this point its half mental, too. i mean, anything below 55f and i'm shivering OFF the bike. i feel much better in 90+ temps.
anyway, so starting last Oct i did joe friel's advanced 14 week base phase, using only my LTHR zones as a guide. turned off power meter and if training indoors used 'free rides' on trainer road. but once that was completed, switched to sweet spot base 1 high volume in TR, turned the power meter back on, and now starting phase 2, and oh my god. the differences from last year are night and day as far as conditioning and aerobics are concerned.
my goals this year were to simply increase sustained power, work on flats, and get comfortable at a cadence of 85-90 instead of 100. last year i had real difficulties sustaining power in my SS, threshold and FTP workouts, and anything beyond 15 mins at SS was tough slogging. not the case this year. able to sustain power and i've manged to improve my pacing tremendously. two weekends ago, for example, i was able to complete 3 x 20 at 90% ftp. not possible last year, and this was with a higher FTP level. in addition, looking at last year's files in a lot of intervals there was wildly divergent power swings during the power interval and my accuracy rating would be in 50-60% zones. so while i might have matched my expected power, it was only through some tricky accounting. my HR was off the scales, too. totally different this year. able to hold consistent power with accuracy usually in the 90% range, lower HR, and greater duration. my lung functions are off the charts, too. it's really great -- had appointment with my lung specialists last week and the numbers were so good that he removed 4 prescriptions from my regimen for fist time since transplant.
already dreading the build phase, but also looking forward to see how improvement so far will yield diff results -- i crumbled doing the sustained power build last year.
lesson? do a real base. not what i had been doing for a few years...
AND why wont Canyon ship to the USA??? Make america great again!
anyway, so starting last Oct i did joe friel's advanced 14 week base phase, using only my LTHR zones as a guide. turned off power meter and if training indoors used 'free rides' on trainer road. but once that was completed, switched to sweet spot base 1 high volume in TR, turned the power meter back on, and now starting phase 2, and oh my god. the differences from last year are night and day as far as conditioning and aerobics are concerned.
my goals this year were to simply increase sustained power, work on flats, and get comfortable at a cadence of 85-90 instead of 100. last year i had real difficulties sustaining power in my SS, threshold and FTP workouts, and anything beyond 15 mins at SS was tough slogging. not the case this year. able to sustain power and i've manged to improve my pacing tremendously. two weekends ago, for example, i was able to complete 3 x 20 at 90% ftp. not possible last year, and this was with a higher FTP level. in addition, looking at last year's files in a lot of intervals there was wildly divergent power swings during the power interval and my accuracy rating would be in 50-60% zones. so while i might have matched my expected power, it was only through some tricky accounting. my HR was off the scales, too. totally different this year. able to hold consistent power with accuracy usually in the 90% range, lower HR, and greater duration. my lung functions are off the charts, too. it's really great -- had appointment with my lung specialists last week and the numbers were so good that he removed 4 prescriptions from my regimen for fist time since transplant.
already dreading the build phase, but also looking forward to see how improvement so far will yield diff results -- i crumbled doing the sustained power build last year.
lesson? do a real base. not what i had been doing for a few years...
AND why wont Canyon ship to the USA??? Make america great again!
Psychotext
Member
I did sweet spot base last year and to be honest it was far, far superior to the traditional base training that I did this year. Complete fucking waste of three months... am really not happy about it.
As for temperature, if your clothes are good enough then you should pretty much be able to deal with anything, well into properly freezing temps.
As for temperature, if your clothes are good enough then you should pretty much be able to deal with anything, well into properly freezing temps.
TarpitCarnivore
Member
Went outside for the first time since November. The combination of indoor riding, diet change and 12-15 mph sustained winds resulted in a brutal ride.
Also realization of some muscle imbalance I have going on. I was finding my right hip turning in towards my top tube quite frequently.
Also realization of some muscle imbalance I have going on. I was finding my right hip turning in towards my top tube quite frequently.
jakonovski
Member
Lucky me, the tyre snapped mostly to place by itself and felt perfect while riding (but thanks for the tips, I had no idea there was a tool like that!).
And what a ride it was, 4 hours in the snow. For the first time I'm getting arm cramps after cycling.
And what a ride it was, 4 hours in the snow. For the first time I'm getting arm cramps after cycling.
Psychotext
Member
Deathgripping.
jakonovski
Member
Could be, the slush was deadly in places. I also know perfectly well that there's enough grip with the spike tyres, but my lizard brain doesn't accept it.
Last summer my trusty Kronos, revolights and all, got stolen from inside my apartment.
Replaced it with a second hand Giant Defy 3 which rides nicely. Unfortunately the guy I bought it from sold it with bald tires. Probably lost one tube to them already.
What reasonably priced road tires should I replace them with?
Replaced it with a second hand Giant Defy 3 which rides nicely. Unfortunately the guy I bought it from sold it with bald tires. Probably lost one tube to them already.
What reasonably priced road tires should I replace them with?
jakonovski
Member
Depends on what you consider as reasonable, but Conti GP4000s are excellent. Maxxis Re-fuse are cheaper, slightly heavier and stiffer, but have superb puncture resistance.
edit: for the euros, there's dirt cheap tyres on Chain Reaction's clearance. I ordered Hutchinson and Vee Rubber to fart around with, two sets of reasonably specced tyres for the price of a single Continental. Not bad at all.
edit: for the euros, there's dirt cheap tyres on Chain Reaction's clearance. I ordered Hutchinson and Vee Rubber to fart around with, two sets of reasonably specced tyres for the price of a single Continental. Not bad at all.
This weekend I discovered that aggressive rides that accidentally turn into centuries as they progress are way harder than intentional casual centuries.
I finally succeeded in getting a comment (during the brutal group ride that constituted the middle of this experience) from the person behind me about the chrome being blinding.
Awesome fact: If you bring a vintage steel brick to a hilly group ride, other cyclists will conclude that any bonking or general suckage is actually the fault of the bicycle.
I finally succeeded in getting a comment (during the brutal group ride that constituted the middle of this experience) from the person behind me about the chrome being blinding.
Awesome fact: If you bring a vintage steel brick to a hilly group ride, other cyclists will conclude that any bonking or general suckage is actually the fault of the bicycle.
Help me, BikeGAF. I've been really struggling with motivation to ride this winter when I'd normally be out in all weathers without a second thought. I've been out just once in the past four months. OK, the trails are as boggy as hell from unusually high rainfall and it seems to be very windy all the time (I hate riding in high winds), but still. I keep noping opportunities.
Time to buy a new bike?
Time to buy a new bike?
Psychotext
Member
Maybe time to hit up some hardened trails. The problem with your local haunt is that it really doesn't respond well to rain.
I mean, you could but a fat bike or something, but those I know with them say they're shit in the mud anyway. Maybe become a mudroadie?
I mean, you could but a fat bike or something, but those I know with them say they're shit in the mud anyway. Maybe become a mudroadie?
Do you have good enough clothes? This winter, I got good water-proof cycling pants, shoes and warm gloves. Just those three things make all the difference, and I can go out no matter the weather. In theory. In practice, maybe once or twice a week. But still!
jakonovski
Member
The shiniest bike you can find. And maybe something a bit different to what you're used to.
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