TarpitCarnivore
Member
Damn hot water heater burst and our basement is out of commission which means no indoor riding unless I want to inhale musty carpet for an hour. Decisions decisions.
-
Hey, guest user. Hope you're enjoying NeoGAF! Have you considered registering for an account? Come join us and add your take to the daily discourse.
Bicycle age
- Thread starter elrechazado
- Start date
Psychotext
Member
Man... did an overnight waypoint based ride in Wales this weekend, stayed in a bothy (thankfully) and woke up to a bunch of snow. SO GODDAMN COLD.
Psychotext
Member
Friend of mine put some footage together from the weekend: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E8OOmFNOFGk
Spent the past week bicycling in Key West and really want to get a bike now for some light (graveled) trail riding in some of the local parks and to ride with friends the next town over.
I'm thinking a hybrid would be good for me since I definitely don't want a street back but don't anticipate anything like really heavy-duty trails. I'm contemplating a Giant Roam 1 as my current top contender.
I'm thinking a hybrid would be good for me since I definitely don't want a street back but don't anticipate anything like really heavy-duty trails. I'm contemplating a Giant Roam 1 as my current top contender.
Psychotext
Member
Sounds like a CX bike would probably suit you fairly well.
Most of the bikes billed specifically as CX bikes seem a bit out of my price-range. I'd like to stay under $1k for this first excursion (particularly since I'll have to buy stuff like a helmet, lock, etc.). Actually, the new Toughroad from Giant looks interesting too.
Psychotext
Member
Well, I can't really recommend most hybrids as sadly they're a worst of both worlds (they tend to be heavy, and have awful suspension). I know one poster here bought one that he rated though.
That toughroad does look interesting.
That toughroad does look interesting.
there are plenty of good cx models from last year on clearance such at this one
right now is a great time to buy a 2014/15 bike
How hard? Gravel bikes can get a little pricey, but for the most part you avoid having to worry about shock absorbers. I think there's a GT Grade for around a grand.
rykomatsu
Member
Looking to buy a triathlon bike this year and looking for a good deal on a used or new bike...(already have road bike, sitting in shop hunting around for replacement components)
What do you guys think about this used 2014 BMC TM02 for around $2k?
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=172058211775&alt=web
Also found a new 2013 Scott Plasma 20 for around $2000 locally as well.
What do you guys think about this used 2014 BMC TM02 for around $2k?
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=172058211775&alt=web
Also found a new 2013 Scott Plasma 20 for around $2000 locally as well.
Psychotext
Member
After my Leadville entry didn't work out, I'm giving some serious thought to doing this (marathon stage racing in Iceland): http://www.glacier360.is/details-itinerary/
The frame and Ultegra bits are great at 2 thousand. (Assuming they're in good condition.)
That said, I'm not sure how serious a tri rider you are, but a 53-39 crank is pretty brutal, and the wheels on that frame are just dreadful so you're going to need to add 500+ to that 2,000 (probably more like a grand plus due to how aero wheels are) if you don't have replacements already.
Is this a good buy for a first road bike? I currently have a hybrid but I've been wanting drop bars for a while. It's a Motobecane Sport (unsure of the year) for $175. Also what search terms should I be using when looking on craigslist, and what are some things to keep a lookout for or avoid? I don't mind going for an older bike, as long as the bike was from a good manufacturer.
http://newjersey.craigslist.org/bik/5391436594.html
http://newjersey.craigslist.org/bik/5391436594.html
Groupset. Start with "Shimano Tiagra" but if you can't find anything there you might have to downgrade to "Shimano Sora".
In terms of things to avoid, significant wear and tear. In what you linked it talked about sketchy tires, that'd be a big red flag for me since puncture problems can really ruin a bike experience, plus it's just dangerous and an additional invisible cost.
Next thing I'd watch out for is current status of the frame materials. You'll probably be joining us in the #aluminati and frankly it's not the best road bike material. Look for damage, corrosion, and the like. If by some miracle you find something with a carbon fiber fork, pay extra close attention to its current condition. Don't be afraid to run it down to an REI for a once over. $25 membership gets you access to their reasonable bike shop.
The ad recommends replacing tires, which could run the effective total to over $200, assuming there's nothing else wrong with it (which may or may not be true), and assuming that you won't desperately want to ditch that whacky saddle.
Feels a little on the steep side when the 2014 version is $350 new.
Also note that this bike's price is made possible by equipping it with bottom-level components. Some people freak out if you even think about buying a bike with anything below Shimano 105, and will insist that 2200/Claris/whatever parts will cause your bike to explode and kill you in a massive fireball within the first 100 miles of riding. While this isn't particularly true, the bike will be on the heavy side and you might need to put a little more effort into maintenance to keep things working smoothly.
...Also, does this bike actually fit you? Ad doesn't seem to include any sizing information. If you're going to a road ride, you'd be better off taking a fatbike that fits than a high-end road bike that's 6cm too big or small. You wouldn't go very fast, but at least you'll be comfortable and much less likely to injure yourself.
//================
Some general stuff with searching used bikes:
1. Try to avoid buying stolen goods.
2. Make sure the bike is pretty close to the right size.
3. If you're worried about general quality, try looking up the bike brand to find where it sits in a manufacturer's overall hierarchy. If you can't figure out hierarchy, look for what components (such as derailleurs) the bike would have shipped with and see where they stack up in a component-maker's hierarchy. By the way, marketing for older low-end stuff is occasionally hilarious.
If you decide to go ahead and make contact:
4. Look the bike over for serious issues. If the frame/fork is bent, hell no.
5. Before test riding it, make sure that at least one of the brakes is in operable condition and that the handlebars are secured firmly to the stem.
6. While riding, lighten your hands from the bars (but keep your hands close enough that you can regain control if need be) and let the bike try directing itself. Make sure that it can basically roll straight, and that it doesn't have any kind of crazy shimmy bullshit.
I've had pretty good luck. Although there's some scratches and flakes in the finish here and there, that blue Fuji America behind it is also in excellent condition; my grandfather gave it to me a year ago.
There are flippers who sell plenty of beautiful vintage bikes in great shape, but obviously they tend to charge more than people who are just getting rid of that thing that's taking up space in the guest bedroom or whatever.
TarpitCarnivore
Member
You're near JC which has a decent bike shop called Grove Street bikes. They might have used bikes for you.
Thanks for the replies. Unfortunately everything that popped when I entered those two groupsets turned out to be $500+ and I kind of wanted to stay around the $300 area, preferably staying at around $200. ;_; I don't mind what material the frame is made out of as long as I have drops and relatively thin tires, STI shifters would be a huge plus. I am still keeping the Motobecane in mind and am waiting for a reply to me asking what specifically was wrong with the tires.
These two popped up and they both look like good deals, but I don't know a damn thing about bikes so could you guys tell me if they're worth it? Especially that NY bike, I would rather avoid driving to the city or taking the bus there and riding in the city, but if it's really worth it I'll take the adventure to get it:
https://newjersey.craigslist.org/bik/5401061090.html
https://newyork.craigslist.org/brk/bik/5391503338.html
Yes, according to the seller it's 54cm and I'm 5'8". I did see that the new version wasn't that much more expensive, but I want to stay used haha. Feel like I could get a better bang for the buck when going used.
Looking at images of the place it looks pretty promising, I'll go give them a call, thanks man.
These two popped up and they both look like good deals, but I don't know a damn thing about bikes so could you guys tell me if they're worth it? Especially that NY bike, I would rather avoid driving to the city or taking the bus there and riding in the city, but if it's really worth it I'll take the adventure to get it:
https://newjersey.craigslist.org/bik/5401061090.html
https://newyork.craigslist.org/brk/bik/5391503338.html
Yes, according to the seller it's 54cm and I'm 5'8". I did see that the new version wasn't that much more expensive, but I want to stay used haha. Feel like I could get a better bang for the buck when going used.
Looking at images of the place it looks pretty promising, I'll go give them a call, thanks man.
TarpitCarnivore
Member
I've never been there, but I know of people who have and had good experiences.
Yesterday I finally got around to dealing with the beach that accumulated on the Emonda in its little ride through the mountains.
BEFORE:
AFTER:
And now I'm going to basically not ride this at all until a warm and sunny season shows up.
Thinking about doing the bar tape as well...
Have you looked much at 70s/80s steel offerings? The older friction shifting interfaces aren't as snappy and the brakes are usually operated by prayer and pixie dust, but machines that are otherwise phenomenal sometimes sell in the $200 range.
BEFORE:
AFTER:
And now I'm going to basically not ride this at all until a warm and sunny season shows up.
Thinking about doing the bar tape as well...
Still feels like steep prices for entry-level used alloy.
Have you looked much at 70s/80s steel offerings? The older friction shifting interfaces aren't as snappy and the brakes are usually operated by prayer and pixie dust, but machines that are otherwise phenomenal sometimes sell in the $200 range.
Psychotext
Member
Very nice. I really can't be arsed cleaning my bike. It's been about four weeks since I cleaned it... too damn cold.
Not doing some cleaning was unfortunately not an option in this case, at least if I ever wanted to use the bike again. Some of the links in the chain were actually stuck! (I didn't end up replacing the chain, but I suppose I'll be keeping my eye on it.)
Psychotext
Member
I always give my chain a bit of GT85 and a wipe before putting the bike away. Can't be dealing with a rusty chain.
TarpitCarnivore
Member
I do 0 winter cleaning. I clean it once before a real cold snap comes through and then leave it be through the winter. To be fair I ride outside maybe 5-10 total between Decemeber and March and almost never after a snow storm.
Psychotext
Member
I've got all sorts of old bits (some actually unused) and no idea who to give it to. There is a local cycling charity, but they're fussy bastards.
EdwardTivrusky
Member
Well, my trusty Globe Vienna collapsed after 5 years of daily commuting and after a bit of messing about with QR Skewers and a new rear wheel it turned out that the rear wheel had collapsed because the frame had cracked and it was deemed not repairable. LBS got in touch with Specialized and heh, i managed to find the receipts 
This morning after 1 month of getting lardy over bikeless Christmas i rode into work on my new Specialized Crosstrail Disk - Woot! \0/ I need to get used to the geometry and MTB gearing but i like it so far.
This morning after 1 month of getting lardy over bikeless Christmas i rode into work on my new Specialized Crosstrail Disk - Woot! \0/ I need to get used to the geometry and MTB gearing but i like it so far.
Sorry for the late reply, can't look at the second listing as it's expired, but the first is very dated (RSX isn't produced anymore) and not in a "vintage steel frame with Campagnolo downtube shifting" kind of way.
If you're patient and broaden where you search (there are a lot of deep discount online stores always trying to move old stock or their in house brands), I think you'd be able to find something better at the budget you're set on. (Someone linked you a brand new Motobecane from their online store.)
So, since the saddle was in iffy shape (not through heavy use, but the back was frayed from age and I think incorrect saddle installation), and since the Miyata is my "trying new (old?) things" machine, I decided to try...
...
Brooks.
Currently it feels a bit overly hard, although these are supposed to break in with care and time. I'll probably also HTFU a little, always seems to be a thing with new saddles.
...
spending more on the saddle than on the bike
Currently it feels a bit overly hard, although these are supposed to break in with care and time. I'll probably also HTFU a little, always seems to be a thing with new saddles.
Psychotext
Member
That saddle is worth about twice what the bike is.
Edit - lol, I just saw your spoiler.
Edit - lol, I just saw your spoiler.
Brooks is one of those things I don't get but am endlessly subjected to because the anglophone road bike press is principally staffed by navel gazing poms.
Really should get better at my French, I can only imagine what adventures I'd have there instead. When I was trying to find out why Colnago had beef with (what was then) Team Europcar (I guess a lorry hitting someone in Cheshire was more important) it was kind of culture shock.
Really should get better at my French, I can only imagine what adventures I'd have there instead. When I was trying to find out why Colnago had beef with (what was then) Team Europcar (I guess a lorry hitting someone in Cheshire was more important) it was kind of culture shock.
Went on my first ride of the year. To be honest it was probably my first ride in a year. It wasn't as dreadful as I thought. A friend is trying to put together a Gooseberry Mesa/Hurricane Rim trip in April so I have a good goal to work towards. Just got to figure out how to train mtb skills will gaining fitness on the road.
Someone evidently wanted to see if it was possible to shorten the wheelbase.
http://www.pedalroom.com/bike/rigi-spaziale-pista-extra-cazzaniga-26590
http://www.pedalroom.com/bike/rigi-spaziale-pista-extra-cazzaniga-26590
Psychotext
Member
Uhh... OK. Lol
Barkley's Justice
Member
I have a chromoly cyclocross and interested in getting a new groupset. I have an older (07'?) Shimano Tiagra set on there now that's served me well. But I wouldn't mind an upgrade.
Any suggestions?
Any suggestions?
What configuration does your Tiagra groupset have, and what are you looking for in an "upgrade" (different gearing, lighter weight, smoother shifting, etc)?
Marky Mark
Member
Can anyone recommend me some mountain bike style SPD shows and pedals for commuting on a flat bar hybrid roughly 12km each way, each day?
So far I've looked at and tried on some Shimano SH-MT34 (or 44s, I can't remember exactly) as well as some Northwave Escapes. Both were around AU$100 which is about what I want to spend for my first pair.
The pedals I saw today were Shimano platform SPDs with spring loaded clips so they can be used with normal shoes. I think I'll be getting them.
Any preference on those shoes or other recommendations? Thanks.
So far I've looked at and tried on some Shimano SH-MT34 (or 44s, I can't remember exactly) as well as some Northwave Escapes. Both were around AU$100 which is about what I want to spend for my first pair.
The pedals I saw today were Shimano platform SPDs with spring loaded clips so they can be used with normal shoes. I think I'll be getting them.
Any preference on those shoes or other recommendations? Thanks.
Tonight I was getting a demo mtn bike all set up for an early morning ride, putting pedals on it, making sure I had the right size tube, setting the suspension, etc.. I decide to give it a little test around the complex and realize I don't have any cleats on my shoes. I grab my old mtb shoes and they don't have cleats either. I some how have 3 sets of pedals and 2 pairs of shoes but no cleats.
I didn't like the look the first time I saw it but it's growing on me. Not my pic as the demo is a dark charcoal with red details.
I didn't like the look the first time I saw it but it's growing on me. Not my pic as the demo is a dark charcoal with red details.
Barkley's Justice
Member
I think he meant whether or not it has cross gearing. Something like a 46 - 36t crank set. That can be harder to find.
TarpitCarnivore
Member
I ride on Shimano A600 pedals with Giro Republic shoes. The Republic's look like a sneaker from far away, but they have a stiffer sole than some of the sneaker hybrids I've picked up (never wore any of them). They also breath surprisingly well! Only complaint is that I needed to use shims to make the cleat click in. The well is too deep on the shoe. If they were out when I was buying them I would have gotten the Reflective versions, which may be a smarter move for you if you're commuting.
A fairly straight upgrade might make sense then. The current Tiagra would be an improvement, but to make it worth it, you're might consider going a step higher.
The most recent gen of 105 (5800) is reputed to be a significant improvement over 5700, and pretty similar to the current-gen Ultegra 6800. Shifting is quite snappy, and I've found that my 5800 has done a decent job of staying adjusted even through such things as being coated in thick sandy grime in sub-freezing conditions. Both 5800 and 6800 are good options, note that they don't come in the same tooth count configurations, so that might be a big part of which you pick if you decide to go down this route.
If you're interested in a tangible step above that, you could look into E-shifting, such as the Ultegra 6870 Di2 groupset. They've got a great reputation for shifting quickly and consistently, as long as you don't forget to charge the battery.
The 105 5800 group is really hard to beat for the money but you can only get a 50/34 crankset. That is pretty high for real cross and most off road use but fine for everywhere else.
Weather is beautiful in So Cal this week. I walked up some hills on my ride today but still had fun.
Weather is beautiful in So Cal this week. I walked up some hills on my ride today but still had fun.
Marky Mark
Member
Thanks for the recommendation. I'll have a look around and see if I can find some in Adelaide, Australia, to try on. They look like they might be a little more than I was wanting to pay but I'll still try to find some.
They don't make the clicking sound when you walk or make up look like a duck do they? That's the main reason I want MTB style so I can ride to the shops as well and not be 100% awkward. Thanks again.
Psychotext
Member
What's the frame on that? Looks like a nice setup.
It's an Intense Spider 275A. It's a 130/115mm travel bike that uses the same VPP suspension system as Santa Cruz. It's kind of heavy, 7lbs for an aluminum frame, but rode a lot lighter than the 30 lbs total weight. It's made in the US so it's not cheap.
Just a head up that the Winter Cycling Congress 2016 starts 2nd of February. Should provide some interesting insights, hopefully at least some of it seeps through to general public too.
TarpitCarnivore
Member
There's still a slight bit of awkwardness or click to them, but nothing like wearing Look compatible shoes
Similar threads
- Locked