Psychotext
Member
My front brake kept completely dying after each uplift yesterday. Took about 50 pumps to get it to come back. Frustrating.
My front brake kept completely dying after each uplift yesterday. Took about 50 pumps to get it to come back. Frustrating.
Grip on high rollers is nothing compared to what a beaver can offer, and ardent race is grippier than a race king in my experience (race kings are shit for all sorts of reasons). X-Kings are good though.
So why not have reasonable grip on both ends? Unless you're spending a massive amount of time on hard surfaces you just don't need semi slicks.
Crashes from losing the rear are less painful as a general rule... but they still hurt.
Edit- This from a perspective of a hard tail rider for what it's worth. You need to be EXTREMELY careful in managing grip as you don't have the shock compensating for you.
21 turns down to the valley that takes you to the fjord
That's odd. The splines should be holding the cog rotation rigid relative to the freehub... The lockring isn't for preventing relative cog rotation, it's for preventing the cassette from sliding left and right. Are you sure that the lockring slippage wasn't caused by a catastrophic issue with the freehub and/or cassette?
Did my biannual MTB-ride to remind myself why I'm a roadie. Chose the Norwegian highlands for the occasion, more specific the old gravel road (Rallarvegen) used to build the railway between Oslo and Bergen. The ride is a bit over 50km where you start at 1222m, ride up to 1343 and then it's all the way down to sea level at the end of a fjord.
Mostly hardpacked gravel, but there are technical rocky sections where the gravel has been washed away, and even some snow patches. I didn't take many pictures this time, so they're stolen from the web.
Did my biannual MTB-ride to remind myself why I'm a roadie. Chose the Norwegian highlands for the occasion, more specific the old gravel road (Rallarvegen) used to build the railway between Oslo and Bergen. The ride is a bit over 50km where you start at 1222m, ride up to 1343 and then it's all the way down to sea level at the end of a fjord.
Wanted to try it this year, but will probably wait until next. It's on the bucket list for sure! But... I kinda want to climb up again, too.
That 21 turn valley thing looks like a great climb. I wonder what the KOM is.
Edit: ooh, forgot. Encountered a spooky dude dressed all in black standing in the middle of a singletrack deep in the woods. Had to slowly ride around him as he just stood there staring at me, totally still. He had patent leather shoes on.
I don't think so. He looked old and had nothing in his handsFilthy pokemon players.
The itch to get another bike is building. Unfortunately for you trail lads I don't think it'll be a mountain bike if I do it.
My next-door neighbour is a MTBer but bought a carbon Cannondale Jimmy Farthing a year or so ago on the 'advice' of his brother. He moans about it all the time, saying he comes back less fit than when he started. I think his wife insisted as it's quicker and cleaner. Naturally, I take the piss at every single opportunity.
I want one, just don't know if I I'd ride enough to justify dropping $800-1200 on it. Since I do so much of my riding in the early AM I can't exactly go trail riding when it's pitch black.
Yup, night riding is awesome.
But then I have to DRIVE somewhere which eats up more of my time as I'm already on a tight schedule.
On the day you told you me about them. Not arrived yet.
Anyone using an 11 speed Shimano Cassette / Derailleur tried using a KMC X11 Super Light 11 Speed Chain with it yet? If so how was the longevity? Do the spaces on the side get clogged with dirt?(using it in a MTB application)
Wanting opinions if it is worth the extra $30-40 over a XTR/Dura-Ace 11 chain.
I haven't noticed a difference in wear or life with KMC and Shimano, but I've only tried them both in ten speed setups, not 11. For what it's worth, my vote is no
I would say no but I also wouldn't go above the 2nd from the top Shimano chains. KMC makes the mid to high end Shimano chains just so you know.
Sounds like a little cable stretch. 2 minute job.
Just got a message that it's ready to pick up, which is good.
Is that something I could easily learn to do myself?
Where should I be getting cables from? Anything obvious to look for/avoid when purchasing?
It's normal adjustments needed for a new bike after a few rides.
All part of the shakedown..!
It's normal adjustments needed for a new bike after a few rides.
All part of the shakedown..!
Sure, at least if the trail riding in question isn't so rough that you feel like you need suspension.PS: Looked at Surley Bikes(i like the troll) would this be a suited bike?
I'm watching the Olympic Jimmies right now but if you tell anyone I'll fucking deny it.
If they're not making any noise or otherwise have obvious friction, they're probably fine. If you're concerned, drip a little lube on the pivots every few months. They really shouldn't need constant maintenance though.After washing your bike, what should you put on the rim brake calipers, if anything?
If you get any lube on the brake pads, declare your bike destroyed and use it as an excuse to N+1.
Sure, at least if the trail riding in question isn't so rough that you feel like you need suspension.
If the tour itself is going to be mostly on pavement, gravel, and/or very hard-packed dirt, consider running supple slicks such as these rather than the mildly-knobby tires that come on the bike; you might boost your speed a little and get a smoother, quieter ride.
For comparable sorts of bikes at much lower cost, consider looking for vintage rigid mountain bikes. The ones from the 80s are sort of like beefed-up stretched-out touring bikes, often featuring pretty a decent variety of bosses and holes for mounting stuff.
Thx for the reply and help. I thought i will get a suspension for the front. Great tipp with the old bikes, will have a look.
Sorry to ask again. When do you think is the best time to buy? Winter? Spring?
Fucking twilight puncture deep in the woods last night, and Rubber Queens are a right bitch to get off and on my rims. Time to go tubeless I think, but part of me says just wait for a new bike. Mind you, we are heading into thorn season...
Go tubeless, you'll be happy during thorn season.
The other day I got home from a ride and there was a staple sticking in my tire. Pulled it out slowly and just spun the wheel. After a few rotations there was no more leaking.
Fucking twilight puncture deep in the woods last night, and Rubber Queens are a right bitch to get off and on my rims. Time to go tubeless I think, but part of me says just wait for a new bike. Mind you, we are heading into thorn season...
Not sure about your country, but we're approaching the best time to buy with the announcement of 2017 models and the stores wanting to get rid of their 2016 models.