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Bicycle age

Mascot

Member
Who needs Hans Rey when you have God Rays..?

God%20Rays_zpsq65gxxqf.jpg
 
Grip on high rollers is nothing compared to what a beaver can offer, and ardent race is grippier than a race king in my experience (race kings are shit for all sorts of reasons). X-Kings are good though.

So why not have reasonable grip on both ends? Unless you're spending a massive amount of time on hard surfaces you just don't need semi slicks.

Crashes from losing the rear are less painful as a general rule... but they still hurt.

Edit- This from a perspective of a hard tail rider for what it's worth. You need to be EXTREMELY careful in managing grip as you don't have the shock compensating for you.

I probably should've told that I want them for marathon races that are 50% gravel road and 50% slippy forest with roots and rocks. Smooth rolling is a must or the whole thing becomes terrible. Good thing is I already have a pair of 2.0 Beavers for riding in early winter, so if the combo works I'll get a 2.2 tyre and if not, well, nothing lost except a bit of elbow grease.

I'm also riding on a hardtail (the full susser is too cumbersome even with fast tyres).
 

kottila

Member
Did my biannual MTB-ride to remind myself why I'm a roadie. Chose the Norwegian highlands for the occasion, more specific the old gravel road (Rallarvegen) used to build the railway between Oslo and Bergen. The ride is a bit over 50km where you start at 1222m, ride up to 1343 and then it's all the way down to sea level at the end of a fjord.

Mostly hardpacked gravel, but there are technical rocky sections where the gravel has been washed away, and even some snow patches. I didn't take many pictures this time, so they're stolen from the web.

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Rallarvegen+-+mot+Fl%C3%A5m+-+dag+2.JPG

rallarvegen1.jpg


21 turns down to the valley that takes you to the fjord
IMG_3496.JPG
 

Mascot

Member
That's odd. The splines should be holding the cog rotation rigid relative to the freehub... The lockring isn't for preventing relative cog rotation, it's for preventing the cassette from sliding left and right. Are you sure that the lockring slippage wasn't caused by a catastrophic issue with the freehub and/or cassette?

I removed the cassette completely at lunchtime and had a thorough look at the whole arrangement. The spline and hub seem A-OK (Shimano SLX), the cogs themselves seem absolutely fine (Shimano XT), and the spline 'grooves' and corresponding cog cut-outs are sharp and unworn, but until the lock ring is torqued up there is a bit of play in the cogs.

I fitted a brand-new cassette to my hardtail a few months ago but can't remember how 'loose' it was until tightened down.
 
Did my biannual MTB-ride to remind myself why I'm a roadie. Chose the Norwegian highlands for the occasion, more specific the old gravel road (Rallarvegen) used to build the railway between Oslo and Bergen. The ride is a bit over 50km where you start at 1222m, ride up to 1343 and then it's all the way down to sea level at the end of a fjord.

Mostly hardpacked gravel, but there are technical rocky sections where the gravel has been washed away, and even some snow patches. I didn't take many pictures this time, so they're stolen from the web.

looks awesome, and am super jealous.
 

thomaser

Member
Did my biannual MTB-ride to remind myself why I'm a roadie. Chose the Norwegian highlands for the occasion, more specific the old gravel road (Rallarvegen) used to build the railway between Oslo and Bergen. The ride is a bit over 50km where you start at 1222m, ride up to 1343 and then it's all the way down to sea level at the end of a fjord.

Wanted to try it this year, but will probably wait until next. It's on the bucket list for sure! But... I kinda want to climb up again, too.
 

kottila

Member
Wanted to try it this year, but will probably wait until next. It's on the bucket list for sure! But... I kinda want to climb up again, too.

Given the prices on the train, I'd definately do the climb in reverse as well if I had time, my mother wasn't with me and the local brewpub (ægir) didn't tempt me even more.

That 21 turn valley thing looks like a great climb. I wonder what the KOM is. :)

Here you go: https://www.strava.com/segments/1790632
 

Mascot

Member
Mmm... Gears performed flawlessly tonight. Cassette solid. Weird.

My balance was all over the shop though. I wiped out three times and fell into one bush while stationary.

Edit: ooh, forgot. Encountered a spooky dude dressed all in black standing in the middle of a singletrack deep in the woods. Had to slowly ride around him as he just stood there staring at me, totally still. He had patent leather shoes on.
 

Mascot

Member
Filthy pokemon players.
I don't think so. He looked old and had nothing in his hands
apart from a big knife.

It's not the type of thing you want to encounter deep in the woods at twilight.

I'm still riding through clouds of Pokemon players on the coastal path at Black Rock though. Those fuckers can't park for shit and jam up the parts of the path with their shitty little tricked-up Saxos.

The itch to get another bike is building. Unfortunately for you trail lads I don't think it'll be a mountain bike if I do it.

That's OK - it leaves more trail space for the rest of us! :p

My next-door neighbour is a MTBer but bought a carbon Cannondale Jimmy Farthing a year or so ago on the 'advice' of his brother. He moans about it all the time, saying he comes back less fit than when he started. I think his wife insisted as it's quicker and cleaner. Naturally, I take the piss at every single opportunity.
 
My next-door neighbour is a MTBer but bought a carbon Cannondale Jimmy Farthing a year or so ago on the 'advice' of his brother. He moans about it all the time, saying he comes back less fit than when he started. I think his wife insisted as it's quicker and cleaner. Naturally, I take the piss at every single opportunity.

I want one, just don't know if I I'd ride enough to justify dropping $800-1200 on it. Since I do so much of my riding in the early AM I can't exactly go trail riding when it's pitch black.
 
But then I have to DRIVE somewhere which eats up more of my time as I'm already on a tight schedule.


Anyway, took out my old aluminum race geometry bike this morning and damn it felt nimble & fast, but so friggin stiff. Every bump and dip just shot right through me. Made me miss steel + 32c real quick.
 

Mascot

Member
But then I have to DRIVE somewhere which eats up more of my time as I'm already on a tight schedule.

I keep assuming people live near great trails - my bad!

On the day you told you me about them. Not arrived yet.

I must have got lucky and ordered just before a bulk shipment went out as I'm sure I had mine in a few days - certainly quicker than some UK deliveries seem to take.

You can't seem to buy the original Zoic Ethers over here any more - these £12 knock-offs probably cornered the market.

I've been thinking of buying a second set of the old (better) design but the originals still look brand new..!
 

chifanpoe

Member
Anyone using an 11 speed Shimano Cassette / Derailleur tried using a KMC X11 Super Light 11 Speed Chain with it yet? If so how was the longevity? Do the spaces on the side get clogged with dirt?(using it in a MTB application)

Wanting opinions if it is worth the extra $30-40 over a XTR/Dura-Ace 11 chain.
 

trebbble

Member
Anyone using an 11 speed Shimano Cassette / Derailleur tried using a KMC X11 Super Light 11 Speed Chain with it yet? If so how was the longevity? Do the spaces on the side get clogged with dirt?(using it in a MTB application)

Wanting opinions if it is worth the extra $30-40 over a XTR/Dura-Ace 11 chain.

I haven't noticed a difference in wear or life with KMC and Shimano, but I've only tried them both in ten speed setups, not 11. For what it's worth, my vote is no :)
 

Laekon

Member
I would say no but I also wouldn't go above the 2nd from the top Shimano chains. KMC makes the mid to high end Shimano chains just so you know.
 

Mikeside

Member
Had to take my bike back to the shop - gears were fucked - of the 3 on the front, I could originally select all 3, but after a ride I could only select 1 and 2, which translated to gears 2 and 3, and the back 9 were ticking away for a while before it actually changed gears & sounded a bit ropey.


Hopefully I can get it back tonight, otherwise I'm gonna have to catch the bloody train home.
 

Mascot

Member
Just got a message that it's ready to pick up, which is good.

Is that something I could easily learn to do myself?
Where should I be getting cables from? Anything obvious to look for/avoid when purchasing?

It's normal adjustments needed for a new bike after a few rides.

All part of the shakedown..!
 

kottila

Member
It's normal adjustments needed for a new bike after a few rides.

All part of the shakedown..!

Any decent shop will at least give you a free tuneup if you buy a bike from them. I got two years service with one of my bikes (excluding parts of course)
 
I love being good friends with the bike shop I frequent. I get so much stuff done without having to pay a dime or if I'm pay I'm basically just paying for parts & throwing them some food
 

Mikeside

Member
It's normal adjustments needed for a new bike after a few rides.

All part of the shakedown..!

Ahh OK - I'll jump on youtube and look for some guides on what to do - all I've been told really is that I need to give it a good clean & lube up all the move-y bits.

Also been told to deal with the fact that there's a bit of a creak - that also had me worried at first

edit: I keep forgetting to take a photo of it in the wild, so here's a shitty warehouse pic while I remember:
 
Hi Bike GAF. Im having a few questions. First the "situation ". GF and I are planning to do a bike tour next summer (Europe) we both need new bikes. We would like to transport the tent and everything with us. I did some research and was looking in this thread for some advise. I would like to get a bike which should also handle some trails and i can have some fun with. Maybe somebody can help me. EU btw. Price Range 1-2k€ For my GF should not be more than 1k. Also when do you think is the best time to buy. Thx for your Help

PS: Looked at Surley Bikes(i like the troll) would this be a suited bike? and KTM.
 

HTupolev

Member
PS: Looked at Surley Bikes(i like the troll) would this be a suited bike?
Sure, at least if the trail riding in question isn't so rough that you feel like you need suspension.

If the tour itself is going to be mostly on pavement, gravel, and/or very hard-packed dirt, consider running supple slicks such as these rather than the mildly-knobby tires that come on the bike; you might boost your speed a little and get a smoother, quieter ride.

For comparable sorts of bikes at much lower cost, consider looking for vintage rigid mountain bikes. The ones from the 80s are sort of like beefed-up stretched-out touring bikes, often featuring pretty a decent variety of bosses and holes for mounting stuff.
 

HTupolev

Member
After washing your bike, what should you put on the rim brake calipers, if anything?
If they're not making any noise or otherwise have obvious friction, they're probably fine. If you're concerned, drip a little lube on the pivots every few months. They really shouldn't need constant maintenance though.

If you get any lube on the brake pads, declare your bike destroyed and use it as an excuse to N+1.
 

Mascot

Member
Fucking twilight puncture deep in the woods last night, and Rubber Queens are a right bitch to get off and on my rims. Time to go tubeless I think, but part of me says just wait for a new bike. Mind you, we are heading into thorn season...
 
Sure, at least if the trail riding in question isn't so rough that you feel like you need suspension.

If the tour itself is going to be mostly on pavement, gravel, and/or very hard-packed dirt, consider running supple slicks such as these rather than the mildly-knobby tires that come on the bike; you might boost your speed a little and get a smoother, quieter ride.

For comparable sorts of bikes at much lower cost, consider looking for vintage rigid mountain bikes. The ones from the 80s are sort of like beefed-up stretched-out touring bikes, often featuring pretty a decent variety of bosses and holes for mounting stuff.

Thx for the reply and help. I thought i will get a suspension for the front. Great tipp with the old bikes, will have a look.

Sorry to ask again. When do you think is the best time to buy? Winter? Spring?
 

kottila

Member
Thx for the reply and help. I thought i will get a suspension for the front. Great tipp with the old bikes, will have a look.

Sorry to ask again. When do you think is the best time to buy? Winter? Spring?

Not sure about your country, but we're approaching the best time to buy with the announcement of 2017 models and the stores wanting to get rid of their 2016 models.
 
Fucking twilight puncture deep in the woods last night, and Rubber Queens are a right bitch to get off and on my rims. Time to go tubeless I think, but part of me says just wait for a new bike. Mind you, we are heading into thorn season...

Go tubeless, you'll be happy during thorn season.

The other day I got home from a ride and there was a staple sticking in my tire. Pulled it out slowly and just spun the wheel. After a few rotations there was no more leaking.
 

Mascot

Member
Go tubeless, you'll be happy during thorn season.

The other day I got home from a ride and there was a staple sticking in my tire. Pulled it out slowly and just spun the wheel. After a few rotations there was no more leaking.

Yeah, a mate in California says he pulls cactus spikes from his USTs after every ride and hasn't had a puncture in two years.

I'm looking at new bikes again - must be a 'flip' day (or is it 'flop')?
 

trebbble

Member
Fucking twilight puncture deep in the woods last night, and Rubber Queens are a right bitch to get off and on my rims. Time to go tubeless I think, but part of me says just wait for a new bike. Mind you, we are heading into thorn season...

The time to go tubeless is now, friend. You won't regret it.
 
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