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Bicycle age
- Thread starter elrechazado
- Start date
Pffft... Everyone knows the best place to keep a banana is down your cycle shorts.
Cpt.Underpants
Member
What do folks wear underneath the baggy shorts when you're casually cycling?
jakonovski
Member
Merino boxer briefs.
Proper padded Lyra cycling shorts with a banana stuffed down them.
TarpitCarnivore
Member
So, it turns out my seat was a solid 10-15mm too high O_O
I realized when I got my fit last year I was in a different pair of shoes from what I'm wearing now. They sat much higher on the pedals than my current pair. I noticed while really easily pedaling my hips were dipping so I just started dropping the seat 3m until things felt a little right. And would you have it while I was out today I had almost no leg strain in my left leg which is what I had been dealing with since last year when I switched up shoes.
Now if I could just find a saddle my butt likes
I wish I had more elevation around me
I realized when I got my fit last year I was in a different pair of shoes from what I'm wearing now. They sat much higher on the pedals than my current pair. I noticed while really easily pedaling my hips were dipping so I just started dropping the seat 3m until things felt a little right. And would you have it while I was out today I had almost no leg strain in my left leg which is what I had been dealing with since last year when I switched up shoes.
Now if I could just find a saddle my butt likes
I wish I had more elevation around me
Psychotext
Member
T8SC
Member
I'd not enjoy cycling as much if I wasn't surrounded by mountains. I only stay on the flats when it's a TT.
TarpitCarnivore
Member
It's mostly rolling hills around here. If I crack 1000 feet of total elevation it's unusual.
Psychotext
Member
The minimum ratio I ever see on my rides is 10 miles to 1,000 feet. Usually more like 10 miles to 1,500 feet.
T8SC
Member
Pretty much the same here.
jakonovski
Member
I think I will go the super boring route with my wheels and just get DT Swiss R24 db's. Cheap, tubeless and comes with all possible axle conversion bits.
Then maybe the new Hutchinson Overide gravel tyres if I can find them. If not, Schwalbe G-Ones or some Maxxis thing.
Then maybe the new Hutchinson Overide gravel tyres if I can find them. If not, Schwalbe G-Ones or some Maxxis thing.
The Lamonster
Member
Looking for recommendations on mini pumps and turbo trainers. Go!
I got a Tacx Flux. Their original batch had some issues, but they seem to have sorted them out. It is very quiet. A lot more quiet than the Wahoo Kickr. $900 at Clever Training, but twice a year, Clever has a 20% off sale.
If you want to buy a TacX Vortex, I happen to be selling mine.
If you want to buy a TacX Vortex, I happen to be selling mine.
TarpitCarnivore
Member
I have Lezyne mini-pumps and Wahoo KICKR Snap, but really for anything trainer specific go to DC Rainmaker
The Lamonster
Member
Those all look nice!
But what about turbo trainers in the $50-$150 price range?
But what about turbo trainers in the $50-$150 price range?
TarpitCarnivore
Member
To be honest they're not worth it. They'll be magnetic drive systems that have manual resistance controls that don't feel good at all. I know it's hard to drop 250-500 on something you might not like, but if you can buy a good one that actually feels nice to ride it may convince you stick to it longer.
TRUE STORY: Last night I rode my bike to a popular restaurant while it was still plenty light out. I come out after a few hours, start unlocking it, and some dude says creepily "That's an awesome bike dude". I say thanks and then he says "I was about to take it before you walked out". I thought he was joking and did a half nervous laugh. He goes "no, I'm serious. Get a U-Lock. I was going to take it." (I have a lock but not a ULock). I say "why would you do something like that?" He goes "because I need a bike man". I just walked away.
One of the more surreal experiences of my life.
One of the more surreal experiences of my life.
Get a good lock. Anything that's not a d/u lock is pointless.
T8SC
Member
Lezyne Drive Lite & a WattBike. 😂
Why don't modern rear derailleurs use SunTour-style open cages, where the chain can slip on and off without being broken? None of the arguments seem to add up.
Safety? Has anyone ever complained about an open cage dropping the chain?
Weight? If that was the concern, why is my 1970s SunTour Cyclone touring derailleur lighter than a modern Ultegra racing derailleur?
Why are we all inconveniencing ourselves for no obvious reason?
In other retrogrouchy news, there's literally a Cannondale engineer now publically saying that he won't stand by the claim that more bottom bracket stiffness is always better. And as far as I know, he hasn't even been fired for that statement.
Hhhehehe
Maybe at some point within the next 50 or 100 years, bicycle journalists and salespeople will realize that 99% of what they've been attributing to "frame stiffness" is actual steering geometry and weight distribution. Nah, that's probably very optimistic.
Safety? Has anyone ever complained about an open cage dropping the chain?
Weight? If that was the concern, why is my 1970s SunTour Cyclone touring derailleur lighter than a modern Ultegra racing derailleur?
Why are we all inconveniencing ourselves for no obvious reason?
In other retrogrouchy news, there's literally a Cannondale engineer now publically saying that he won't stand by the claim that more bottom bracket stiffness is always better. And as far as I know, he hasn't even been fired for that statement.
Hhhehehe
Maybe at some point within the next 50 or 100 years, bicycle journalists and salespeople will realize that 99% of what they've been attributing to "frame stiffness" is actual steering geometry and weight distribution. Nah, that's probably very optimistic.
You got a cable lock? Those can be cut with a good kitchen knife. And the cheaper ones by hand.
'd'? And good chains are also good, but very heavy.
Psychotext
Member
Going to be a stressful few hours...
TarpitCarnivore
Member
Sometimes I wish I knew more or read more on modern bike tech, but then I remember so much of it is hype & marketing. I'm not saying advancements or tech is bad, just the general coverage.
The lowest I would go would be a reputable fluid trainer.
Smart Trainers that measure your power and can adjust resistance are a whole lot more useful, though.
TarpitCarnivore
Member
Voeckler's last tour
I hope we get a bunch of lead outs and tongue wagging
I hope we get a bunch of lead outs and tongue wagging
The Lamonster
Member
I see. What do you recommend in the $250-$500 range, then?
TarpitCarnivore
Member
This is 100% your best place to start https://www.dcrainmaker.com/2016/10/annual-winter-2016-2017-bike-smart-trainer-recommendations.html
Psychotext
Member
That's actually pretty much the toughest bit of the case. I think I'd remove it for a longer flight though.
As for hard vs soft. I've personally witnessed hard cases come off flights smashed to bits. Sometimes a bit of give is what you need.
Also, the sides of the bag are protected by two burly bastard 29er MTB wheels.
Psychotext
Member
ERG, and I wouldn't worry about being off by any less than 10w in either direction.
Or you can ride inside now like me!
Worked at a shop for years that did a good amount of travel case rentals and soft cases always had less issues. The only logical explanation we could come up with is that they would stack other luggage on the hard cases and were more likely to toss them around.That's actually pretty much the toughest bit of the case. I think I'd remove it for a longer flight though.
As for hard vs soft. I've personally witnessed hard cases come off flights smashed to bits. Sometimes a bit of give is what you need.
Also, the sides of the bag are protected by two burly bastard 29er MTB wheels.
Psychotext
Member
Ha... that's just nuts.
Psychotext
Member
Good trail today, very tough techy decent and some punchy climbs.
Hi guys, I have the Allez Elite (this model: https://www.specialized.com/us/en/allez-elite/93185) which I bought a year or two ago. I've been riding a lot recently, and want to start upgrading some of the components (the kit I bought has pretty low-end components I believe).
What should I look into upgrading first? I really don't know much about what would get the most noticeable improvement for the money, or where you start seeing diminishing returns. This includes upgrading wheels/tires.
What should I look into upgrading first? I really don't know much about what would get the most noticeable improvement for the money, or where you start seeing diminishing returns. This includes upgrading wheels/tires.
Upgrade based on your needs and wants. Is there something that will make you a bit more comfortable that you need, saddle, bars, stem length etc.
If you want to go faster.... New wheels will almost certainly be the biggest upgrade a bike can get. Just feels like an entirely new machine, especially when upgrading from standard stock wheels. What you need for wheels depends on what you do with them and your budget. New wheels and tyres is what I would do.
Rest of bike is alright. Tiagra is decent, but if any parts have worn out, replace them. Probably chain.
TarpitCarnivore
Member
One thing to remember is it's more about the driver than the car. So it's best to make smart upgrades versus upgrades with hopes of improvements. Wheels are never a bad option because a lot of stock wheelsets are trash. After that would be drivetrain, but I don't know how much you're going to notice going from tiagra to 105
jakonovski
Member
If you haven't changed the tyres, something like Continental GP4000 or Vittoria Corsa is going to make the biggest difference for relatively little money. After that, you can change the wheels but it's more expensive. A new saddle, seatpost or handlebars might help but only if you don't like what you have. Any more than that and you'll be hitting diminishing returns and it quickly becomes a better idea to save for a new bike once the old one loses its charm.
Proper maintenance helps too. So if you haven't kept up, wash the bike well and take it to a shop for a tune up. New chain, gear and brake cables as well as good bearings will make an old bike feel way better.
The Lamonster
Member
I'd start with pedals and tires.
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