Psychotext
Member
Maybe a little prettier. 
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Bicycle age
- Thread starter elrechazado
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frontieruk
Member
Just to complicate things with UST when Mavic released their new line of road tyres they introduced a "NEW" UST standard for road tryes where the rims and the tyres are pretty much made to match as it's a new standard :-
Now, though, the French company has entered the tubeless market launching Road UST, which it says is the easiest, the safest and the fastest way to go tubeless. It has updated its Allroad, Comete, Cosmic and Ksyrium wheelsets as well as Open Pro rims so that they are now tubeless ready.
What is Mavic Road UST?
As you might suspect from the name, it truly is universal as UST was the first tubeless system, albeit for mountain bikes. Mavic says it's the only standard adopted by all wheel and tyre manufacturers the world over.
Mavic also says that when it comes to a tubeless setup, nothing can be considered in isolation. Instead, there are a number of things – stiffness and diameter of a tyre's bead, rim contour and height, and a tyre's hook shape must all be taken into consideration.
According to Mavic, the UST is also in the process of being approved by both the ISO and the ETRTO working groups, which would make it a standard in its own right.
which if it happens may make things easier for roadies, or may not as it's another competing standard...
TarpitCarnivore
Member
That's what's frustrating is I don't even want to ride 23-28mm tires anymore, they're just too skinny for me. And even in the 35+ department there is so much conflicting information on what tires will and wont work.
I did the exact same thing last August. I also fractured 2 ribs. I didn't have a cast. Didn't have to use a sling. I was back on the bike in a couple weeks (doctor said I'd be back on the bike in 2 weeks and she was right), but it still hurt some. Particularly rough road was bad. But I needed to ride.
The worst bit was shifting to the big ring with my left hand (I fractured my left radial head). You don't realize how much pressure you need to press that lever with. I'm glad I have DI2 now.
You may be back riding sooner than you think.
I don't think anything about the ride was particularly hard on them. The two punctures I've had since getting the tires a year ago were from winter buildup of crap on the side of the road; less of a problem out in the mountains where there are fewer truck tires exploding and people dumping glass bottles and whatnot. And the tires are wide enough that I didn't need to run them at a tire drop where the sidewalls are being exposed and rubbed against much stuff.
Amazing.
TarpitCarnivore
Member
I only have a front brake on my fixed/single and have not had an issue yet. I also primarily brake with my front brake on my road bike.
The only time a front brake has fucked me is on my mountain bike and I think it's just because it's a bit stronger than I'm used to, plus the weight shifting is way different.
The only time a front brake has fucked me is on my mountain bike and I think it's just because it's a bit stronger than I'm used to, plus the weight shifting is way different.
Even with a free-wheel? Really appreciate the reply. I just want to feel comfortable. I rode yesterday and felt 100% fine but I see things online that get me nervous.
TarpitCarnivore
Member
It'll largely come down to the brake strength and where you weight is when applied. Just get in the habit of scooting your butt back when you go to hit the brake. It'll eventually become muscle memory in case you ever need to slam on it in an emergency.
The only time I can recall it being problematic on my road bike, pre-disc, was when I really wrenched on it while I was going 20+. I'm talking just squeezing it full like it was a vice grip.
The only time I can recall it being problematic on my road bike, pre-disc, was when I really wrenched on it while I was going 20+. I'm talking just squeezing it full like it was a vice grip.
Um yeah, that was the whole point. She whiffed mega hard. It's not a design "flaw" just a kinda weird feature.
I am getting foot retention straps so maybe that will help as well.
Psychotext
Member
It'll be great for when you go over the handlebars in an emergency braking situation...
frontieruk
Member
Stirrups... They'll make sure the bike completely flips with you when you Endo
So it's a bad idea?
Psychotext
Member
You just need to be sure that you get your braking right, every time.
Yeah, saw that earlier. That guy is LUCKY to have not been very seriously hurt.
Psychotext
Member
Psychotext
Member
Some of the walkers I've met are worse than drivers. Horse riders tend to be pretty cool though.
Never had an issue with horse riders apart from getting a face full of steamy horse shit sprayed up from my front wheel, but some dog walkers are the worst. I always slow down and even stop when I come across them in the woods, but some owners are quite happy to let their dog run across your path on an extendable lead, quite happy to let their dog snap at your heels, quite happy to let their dog bark and snarl, quite happy to let their dog shit on the path and leave it there.
Some dog walkers are brilliant but others glare at you with unbridled hatred even after you offer a friendly hello as you pass carefully at walking pace. I have to bite my tongue and carry on but I really want to challenge them and ask what the fuck their fucking bastard problem is.
I had an awesome time trial last night. 9.2mi course. I started last year with a 28:00. This year, my times have been 27:16, 26:44, 26:53, 26:38 (windy). And then I took 2 weeks off and got in some really long A rides and a lot of miles. This week I went back and turned in a 25:23!
https://www.strava.com/activities/1079081531
My weighted average power went up from 217W to 236W in a couple weeks. Last time I tested my FTP, I was at 198W. I'm going to have to test again.
I have a set of Profile T3+ bars that I am using on my road bike. I have DI2 plus the Synchro Shift upgrade that will shift the big ring for you when you only use the right shifter. I upgraded to a 5 port A junction box so I could install a TT shifter. But they are so expensive. Instead, I bought a climbing shifter used for $40 on Facebook, extended the wire (it's just 2 conductors, not even shielded), and I'm using that to shift. It's so easy to add extra shifters to a DI2 system. I also have the sprint shifters, and they are incredible.
I really wrung myself out for this one. I had nothing left at the end. I had to ride my bike back up to the parking lot at the top of the hill and I had to granny gear it the whole way.
There are 3 legs to the TT course, and I have set up private strava segments on all 3. I starred the segments so they get synced to my bike computer. My Garmin Edge 1000 then tells me if I am ahead of or behind my best pace. It's a really cool feature. It even turns the field red if I'm behind. I wish it would show you average segment speed, too.
I need to find some way to speed up the 2nd segment. There is a significant hill in the middle that appears flat, so I'm always surprised when I am having such trouble on it. I tied my best time on it. Oh, actually, I just realized that the time I tied, I was drafting someone because I was on a group ride. I don't feel so bad now. I knocked 9 seconds off my best solo time.
I pushed my heart rate higher on this one than I have in the past, but I didn't really pay attention to the number this time. I mainly just went by feel and trying to chase the guy in front of me, and keeping the pace up.
Every time I do this, sometime in the middle of the 2nd segment I wonder why the hell I do it. It hurts. It sucks. Then I forget all of that when I get a good time and can't wait for the next one!
https://www.strava.com/activities/1079081531
My weighted average power went up from 217W to 236W in a couple weeks. Last time I tested my FTP, I was at 198W. I'm going to have to test again.
I have a set of Profile T3+ bars that I am using on my road bike. I have DI2 plus the Synchro Shift upgrade that will shift the big ring for you when you only use the right shifter. I upgraded to a 5 port A junction box so I could install a TT shifter. But they are so expensive. Instead, I bought a climbing shifter used for $40 on Facebook, extended the wire (it's just 2 conductors, not even shielded), and I'm using that to shift. It's so easy to add extra shifters to a DI2 system. I also have the sprint shifters, and they are incredible.
I really wrung myself out for this one. I had nothing left at the end. I had to ride my bike back up to the parking lot at the top of the hill and I had to granny gear it the whole way.
There are 3 legs to the TT course, and I have set up private strava segments on all 3. I starred the segments so they get synced to my bike computer. My Garmin Edge 1000 then tells me if I am ahead of or behind my best pace. It's a really cool feature. It even turns the field red if I'm behind. I wish it would show you average segment speed, too.
I need to find some way to speed up the 2nd segment. There is a significant hill in the middle that appears flat, so I'm always surprised when I am having such trouble on it. I tied my best time on it. Oh, actually, I just realized that the time I tied, I was drafting someone because I was on a group ride. I don't feel so bad now.
I knocked 9 seconds off my best solo time.I pushed my heart rate higher on this one than I have in the past, but I didn't really pay attention to the number this time. I mainly just went by feel and trying to chase the guy in front of me, and keeping the pace up.
Every time I do this, sometime in the middle of the 2nd segment I wonder why the hell I do it. It hurts. It sucks. Then I forget all of that when I get a good time and can't wait for the next one!
Psychotext
Member
Thought this was interesting: Drivers who dislike cyclists don't see them.
Make a thread in offtopic, the one we had discussing drivers etiquette towards cyclist sadly got closed.
There are several screwless bottle cage adapters on Amazon. The ones I currently used I bought them physically at an Stockholm cycling shop and I haven't seen them online. They are plastic straps with screw holes so you can attach your preferred bottle cage, they are the best i have used after trying four different setups. The worse was a cheap adapter from Aliexpress like this one:
It did the job, but wobbled it a bit, was rough on the paint so I protected it with duct tape and is kinda ugly. The good part was that it was easy to remove.
They make cage racks for TT bikes that fit behind the seat.
jakonovski
Member
This one works quite well, and as a bonus you can use it as a third holder on a bike with two already.
http://www.sks-germany.com/en/products/adapter/
I had that one too. I was overall satisfied, but moved too much imho. It got stolen along with my first foldable
.Edit: Found it!
TarpitCarnivore
Member
I would just look into one of the rear seat cages. They wont be as convenient to reach, but it's better than no water on the bike.
jakonovski
Member
Almost forgot, a bikepacking feed bag is super convenient for bottles also. I have this one:
https://www.revelatedesigns.com/index.cfm/store.catalog/cockpit/MountainFeedbag
https://www.revelatedesigns.com/index.cfm/store.catalog/cockpit/MountainFeedbag
TarpitCarnivore
Member
Oh yeah some companies make coozie-like bar bags. Though I suspect they want a more streamlined look
Psychotext
Member
That cycling thread is about as bad as I'd expect it to be. Far too much finger pointing and blaming... not least judging everyone by the worst examples.
Related, is there really a problem between cyclists and pedestrians in the US? Mountain bikers get it on trails in the UK, but virtually no-one cycles on the "sidewalk" over here.
Related, is there really a problem between cyclists and pedestrians in the US? Mountain bikers get it on trails in the UK, but virtually no-one cycles on the "sidewalk" over here.
TarpitCarnivore
Member
Cyclists are just universally hated in the US. I get a lot less crap on the trails than I do the road though. On the road today I had a woman beep at me despite the road being wide enough for 3 cars.
TarpitCarnivore
Member
My bike is making a LOUD creaking nose whenever I apply pressure to one pedal. It's a carbon crank arm so I hope it's not screwed up in anyway. Hoping it's just removing it, cleaning out the threading and re-attaching.
Gray Matter
Member
Yes.
Personally I haven't a lot of negativity, I could count in one hand the amount of times someone has shouted at me/my group while we're riding. The roads in this country aren't built for bicycles, and even the roads with cyclist in mind are just disrespected by drivers.
Also, I think this a problem mostly blamed on roadies, since you know, mountain bikers don't use the roads.
Psychotext
Member
Don't get me wrong, the bike vs car shit doesn't surprise me at all (fun fact, you'll almost never find a mountain biker without a car... so don't try playing that road tax shit with us).
I am really, really surprised by the bike vs pedestrian stuff though.
I am really, really surprised by the bike vs pedestrian stuff though.
TarpitCarnivore
Member
Swung by my shop and they think it's the bottom bracket since it's the original plastic one. They're ordering me a new one.
Check your pedals. Remove them and grease the threads and reinstall.
Also check your chainring bolt torque. My brand new Ultegra crankset was not torqued to spec.
And actually, first check your quick release skewers. Ive had loose skewers sound like bottom bracket creaking before.
TarpitCarnivore
Member
Pedals and crankset was tightened. It's specifically when I'm pushing down on my ride side pedal in a high tension gear.
Also check to make sure it isn't your seatpost.
Application of grease or anti-seize compound or whatever can matter, and my own Miyata 710 had an issue where the seatpost was too long, making sounds deep inside the seat tube whenever I was pedaling at high torque (cutting the seatpost solved the issue).
Application of grease or anti-seize compound or whatever can matter, and my own Miyata 710 had an issue where the seatpost was too long, making sounds deep inside the seat tube whenever I was pedaling at high torque (cutting the seatpost solved the issue).
What cycling thread?
TarpitCarnivore
Member
Checked the seatpost clamp and it was tight, but the sound even happens when I'm standing up.
In other biking news I said screw it and ordered a pair of Schwalbe G-One Allround's in 38.
Fiber Grip
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018FT9HOW/?tag=neogaf0e-20
In the past week, I've battled creaking on my bike twice. Turns out it was a skewer that wasn't tightened enough in both cases. Everything sounds like the bottom bracket when it creaks.
That said, an old bottom bracket can definitely creak.
Particularly the press fit ones.TarpitCarnivore
Member
That said, an old bottom bracket can definitely creak.
It is in fact a plastic press fit BB30
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