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[Lucky Forward]

I just bought a Canon digital SLR, and after playing around with it for two weeks, I want to head out this weekend for some "serious" scenic/nature photography. This means being out on the trail at sunrise, and using a tripod and remote shutter release for best picture quality.

I also want to start shooting in the RAW format instead of JPEG, since RAW lends itself to getting the most out of the image in post-processing. Here's what I understand I have to do:

1. Shoot in RAW
2. Download the RAW images to PC.
3. Run the images through Canon RAW conversion software that yields a TIFF file.
4. Do post-processing of the TIFF image in Photoshop.
5. Save the adjusted image as a JPEG file.

Do I have it right? What exactly is a TIFF file, anyway? Is it worth bracketing my exposures when I shoot, say a third or a half stop either way? Any further advice for shooting in the RAW format?

 

[tigerfan12345]

i shoot almost always in RAW. I shoot raw, convert using photoshop CS, and adjust lvls, colors, etc and exposure. The save as a tiff. Tiff is a lossless format, no compression like jpeg. Just remember when you go and shoot, that raw requires alot more space on your memory card, so make sure you have enough compact flash cards. With raw, if you plan on bracketing exposures, id do half stops or whole stops. You get a little bit more leeway with raw photos than with jpgs. But nothing beats a correct exposure. Check your historgram after you shoot to make sure you arent overexposing things, or to minimize overexposure. RAW is excellent for color correction though. If you are using a 10d, i can send you some actions that i use for sharpening and things like that.


oh and make sure you turn on mirror lock if you plan to use a tripod and release, it'll reduce the camera shake from the mirror slapping.

 

[sprsk]

if youre not shooting raw you might as well be shooting with a camera phone

 

[Lucky Forward]

I shoot raw, convert using photoshop CS...

I'll be using Canon Digital Professional to convert the RAW file, then using Photoshop 6 for post processing (I don't think PS6 does RAW conversion)...so would the output of the Canon RAW conversion be a tiff file at that point? I just want to understand all of the steps in the process.

Good point about the mirror lock-up. I need to review the custom functions on my 20D to make sure I understand how to do it before I'm out in the field.

 

[goodcow]

if youre not shooting raw you might as well be shooting with a camera phone

:lol

 

[tigerfan12345]

to be honest, im not exactly sure about Canon Digital Professional. Also, always archive your original raw files. They really are like a digital negative. Also, for me, since i dont have a wireless release,for long exposures, i use a combo of a timer, mirror lock, and tripod, and its done its job.

You should also check out Capture one pro. Really cool program. Feels like it was designed by a photographer, and not a programmer.

 

[RaymondCarver]

Pro photographers supposedly have home, fire-protected, raid-arrayed, sometimes separate from the building, in a shed in the back, which might as well be part of a bomb-shelter bunker, digital work and negative storage. I suggest we at least start purchasing multiple gig CF cards, implement similar storage practice, and consider that each shot will be about 50 Megs nowadays and about 100 Megs in a few years from now.


My RAW experience is that RAW is always better for when you're going to adjust shots later in post production. However, the family around holidays seems to not want to wait and doesn't mind if shots are captured in .jpeg. Judge what your audience will be VS if you'll actually have time to edit.

Also, I'm still using my Olympus C-8080, and it's great at low ISO. I can't seem to tell the difference between it and D-SLRs on daylight shots. I'll eventually go SLR, but the one important thing I can tell you to do is get a tripod and wireless cable release. Nothing is better than available light shooting, and eventually I'll have some crazy setup on top of my place like Greg Gorman does to skrim natural light. www.greggormanphotography.com

 

[Lucky Forward]

Raymond, which do you suggest I build first, the archival bomb shelter or the rooftop natural light studio?

I bought a "wired" remote shutter release for my 20D, and it cost me 50 frickin' dollars. I used to have a $10 cable release for my old Nikons, then I had to buy dedicated plug-in release for my Canon Elan, and now that I got the 20D it takes a different kind of plug-in remote, the $50 kind.

I don't mind paying for quality equipment like lenses, but it's a shame how they'll screw you on the incidental items.

 

[AirBrian]

I just bought a Canon digital SLR, and after playing around with it for two weeks, I want to head out this weekend for some "serious" scenic/nature photography. This means being out on the trail at sunrise, and using a tripod and remote shutter release for best picture quality.

I also want to start shooting in the RAW format instead of JPEG, since RAW lends itself to getting the most out of the image in post-processing. Here's what I understand I have to do:

1. Shoot in RAW
2. Download the RAW images to PC.
3. Run the images through Canon RAW conversion software that yields a TIFF file.
4. Do post-processing of the TIFF image in Photoshop.
5. Save the adjusted image as a JPEG file.

Do I have it right? What exactly is a TIFF file, anyway? Is it worth bracketing my exposures when I shoot, say a third or a half stop either way? Any further advice for shooting in the RAW format?

Like it's already been said, it's a good idea to archive your original RAW files. Other than that, you've got the process down. I typically shoot in JPG + RAW that way I can instantly sort through the pictures when I get home. After that I'll decide which ones to PP -- usually not that many.

One major advantage that RAW has over JPG is the white balance. If your WB settings are completely wrong, you can adjust them like you're taking the picture over again. With JPG, you can still adjust it, but you'll be adjusting the incorrect WB as opposed to starting with the "clean" image.

And don't forget to post some of your pics.