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"I need a new PC!" 2010 Edition

I somehow managed to lose my fan speed controller for my Zalman CPU fan.

Im not familiar at all with these things, so can I just buy a universal fan controller or do I need the specific one that came with that fan?
 
twdnewh_k said:
No one has recommendations for good 24' 1080p monitors ? :(:(

Budget is upto $ 400...

Are LED's recommended over standard lcd

Pls help :(

From the Tech Report guide I linked to a few pages back:

Let's get one thing clear before we begin: LCDs have long since supplanted CRTs as the display type of choice for gamers and enthusiasts. LCDs might have been small and of insufficient quality for gaming and photo editing six or seven years ago, but the latest models have huge panels, lightning-quick response times, and impressive color definition. Unless you're already content with a massive, power-guzzling CRT, there's little reason to avoid LCDs.

Despite their near-universal sharpness and thin form factors, not all LCDs are created equal. Besides obvious differences in sizes and aspect ratios, LCDs have different panel types. Wikipedia has a good run-down of different kinds of LCD panels in this article, but most users will probably care about one major differentiating attribute: whether their display has a 6-bit twisted nematic + film (TN+film) panel or not. The majority of sub-$500 monitors have 6-bit TN panels, which means 18-bit, rather than 24-bit, color definition. Those panels use dithering to simulate colors that are out of their scope, yielding sub-optimal color accuracy, and they often have poor viewing angles on top of that. 8-bit panels typically look better, although they tend to have higher response times and loftier prices.

So, what should you get? We think that largely depends on which of our builds you're going with. For instance, those who purchase the Sweeter Spot ought to splurge on a nice 8-bit, 24" display—perhaps HP's LP2475w or Dell's UltraSharp U2410, both of which have IPS panels and reasonable price tags. Pairing the Sweeter Spot with a small, $200 display would really be a waste, since high-end graphics cards provide headroom specifically for gaming at high resolutions. It'd be a bit like hooking up a Blu-ray player to a standard-def TV.

We recommend something bigger, like Dell's 27" UltraSharp U2711 or 30" UltraSharp 3007WFP-HC, for use with the Double-Stuff Workstation. Our workstation build has a very high-end graphics card, after all, and you ought to have an ample monitor budget if you're purchasing a $3,000 machine.

<3 my MVA Westinghouse 24" monitor, I'm not replacing it until it dies or I get a 120hz 3D monitor that isn't a TN.
 
For people who overclock their 5800 cards, how do you apply it at start up? Just use the MSI After burner start up option or something else?
 
brain_stew said:
Now get to unlocking them cores!! :D

I don't care how difficult it is, I command you to do it!! :lol

Once you get the OCing bug its hard to give it up, I kinda hate having a settled 24/7 OC sometimes as I love the endless tweaking in search of the perfectly balanced OC. All that free performance as well, it gives you a real feeling of satisfaction knowing you're getting the most out of your components and you've saved a crapton of money.

I tried last night. Wasn't able to because of the idiocy of my Asus M4A78-AM mobo. Basically, the "Unleashing" mode in the BIOS is total shit (it's the equivalent of the "Hybrid" mode on other mobos).

Computer shuts down after saving the new BIOS settings and then fails to cold boot. After about 5 restarts, it finally comes back and says "Unleashing mode failed!". Tried increasing the voltages, but no dice (the voltage customisation sucks in this BIOS anyway).

It's a well documented problem in one of the most comprehensive unlocking guides. And from my understanding of the guide, even if I did get it to work, I would need to go through this hell every time I boot the computer... so, not worth it I think :lol

Should have bought Gigabyte :/
 
I NEED SCISSORS said:
You can use CCC to overclock ATi cards. The settings will stick.

CCC overclocking is broken since like 10.1/10.2 for me. I get worse performance, and I get immediate artifacts with just a 5mhz increase. Also, CCC overclocking is very limited. I can go much higher than the vaules they have.
 
vocab said:
CCC overclocking is broken since like 10.1/10.2 for me. I get worse performance, and I get immediate artifacts with just a 5mhz increase. Also, CCC overclocking is very limited. I can go much higher than the vaules they have.

This happens to me now as well. I had my 5850 Oc' to the max it would allow in CCC (775/1125 I think) and now it glitches and artifacts with any increase. Just when I start to think AMD/ATI has their drivers on the right track.......lol..
 
BravoSuperStar said:
This happens to me now as well. I had my 5850 Oc' to the max it would allow in CCC (775/1125 I think) and now it glitches and artifacts with any increase. Just when I start to think AMD/ATI has their drivers on the right track.......lol..
The drivers on the 5850 are shit imo. I run into so many weird places where my frame-rate tanks in some games running on older engines with some anti-aliasing. Red Orchestra, Killing Floor, Tomb Raider: Underworld, and several others. It sucks. ATI needs to get their shit in line.
 
Hi PC-GAF! Help is needed. Looking to buy an extra PC, and not sure if I should go for a pre-built one or a self-built one. The doubt is there, because the PC I'll need will be an extra PC and thus needn't be too powerful. However, I'm a total noob at knowing what kind of motherboard and powersource and fans I need, so I'm looking for PC-GAF to possibly give me a list of components. I'm from Europe, so no need to link to Newegg necessarily, I'll probably be buying at a local parts-place.

My list of 'wants':
- Probably about 3-4GB's of RAM, because that's pretty cheap these days anyway.
- Dual-core should be fine, but if you guys advise a decent quad-core for a low-price, that's welcome too.
- I don't need to be able to play brand-new games or anything; if it runs stuff like TF2 well, I'll be pleased already. So graphics card doesn't have to be uber-powerful.

That's about all the requirements I can think of right now; if anyone would be willing to give me a list of parts for a PC that would fit those requirements, I'd be extremely thankful. But if there's a pre-built Dell/HP/whatever PC out there that does all that for a same price, would be welcome too. Thanks!
 
BravoSuperStar said:
This happens to me now as well. I had my 5850 Oc' to the max it would allow in CCC (775/1125 I think) and now it glitches and artifacts with any increase. Just when I start to think AMD/ATI has their drivers on the right track.......lol..

Yup. ATI Gpu clock tool, and MSI Afterburner are far much better.
 
Thomper said:
Hi PC-GAF! Help is needed. Looking to buy an extra PC, and not sure if I should go for a pre-built one or a self-built one. The doubt is there, because the PC I'll need will be an extra PC and thus needn't be too powerful. However, I'm a total noob at knowing what kind of motherboard and powersource and fans I need, so I'm looking for PC-GAF to possibly give me a list of components. I'm from Europe, so no need to link to Newegg necessarily, I'll probably be buying at a local parts-place.

My list of 'wants':
- Probably about 3-4GB's of RAM, because that's pretty cheap these days anyway.
- Dual-core should be fine, but if you guys advise a decent quad-core for a low-price, that's welcome too.
- I don't need to be able to play brand-new games or anything; if it runs stuff like TF2 well, I'll be pleased already. So graphics card doesn't have to be uber-powerful.

That's about all the requirements I can think of right now; if anyone would be willing to give me a list of parts for a PC that would fit those requirements, I'd be extremely thankful. But if there's a pre-built Dell/HP/whatever PC out there that does all that for a same price, would be welcome too. Thanks!


You can get fast quad cores for super cheap these days, so I'd generally recommend against dual cores, at least get a triple core or a dual core with hyper threading anyway. Have a look at AMD's Athlon ii range, they give you a lot of cores for the money and they're ona platform with some nice potential upgrade options.

5670 would be a good fit for the GPU as its super low power yet its a decently powerful DX11 GPU with triple video outputs and excellent HTPC features.

Get DDR3 RAM not DDR2.

Any decent 400w+ PSU shouldn't have trouble powering that.

Getting a bog standard Dell/HP and adding a 5670 may be a decent option as otherwise the Windows license (assuming you require a new one) will take up a big proportion of your budget.
 
brain_stew said:
You can get fast quad cores for super cheap these days, so I'd generally recommend against dual cores, at least get a triple core or a dual core with hyper threading anyway. Have a look at AMD's Athlon ii range, they give you a lot of cores for the money and they're ona platform with some nice potential upgrade options.

5670 would be a good fit for the GPU as its super low power yet its a decently powerful DX11 GPU with triple video outputs and excellent HTPC features.

Get DDR3 RAM not DDR2.

Any decent 400w+ PSU shouldn't have trouble powering that.

Getting a bog standard Dell/HP and adding a 5670 may be a decent option as otherwise the Windows license (assuming you require a new one) will take up a big proportion of your budget.
Thanks for the advice! Forgot to add, btw, Windows 7 license costs aren't a problem. As a Dutch student, I'm able to buy it for 40 euro's, so that's pretty cheap. I'll look at your tips, anyway, and if other people have further advice: more than welcome.
 
I have a pc running on a AMD Phenom X3 8450 (2.10GHz) AM2+ and was looking into upgrading my processor sometime in the near future.

Should I stick with AM2+ chips or go withan AM3 one, which from the little investigation I've done are a bit cheaper price-wise? That would be, assuming I can figure out if I can get a BIOS update for my mobo that would support it (if I actually need it). Still need to lookup what model I actually have, and since I'm at work, no can do.
 
twdnewh_k said:
No one has recommendations for good 24' 1080p monitors ? :(:(

Budget is upto $ 400...

Are LED's recommended over standard lcd

Pls help :(

I only buy cheap monitors, which I think work quite well. I can recommend you plenty of those, but judging by the GPU you are buying, you're looking for the cream of the crop.
 
Thomper said:
Thanks for the advice! Forgot to add, btw, Windows 7 license costs aren't a problem. As a Dutch student, I'm able to buy it for 40 euro's, so that's pretty cheap. I'll look at your tips, anyway, and if other people have further advice: more than welcome.

Then building your own is probably a good idea then.
 
Well, stopped by my local Microcenter during lunch and I see that the Intel Core i7-920 Bloomfield is on sale for only $200, only a few bucks more than my previous consideration of the Intel Core i5-750 Lynnfield! So impulse buy mode took over and I got it right then.

So if you're interested check your local store if you have one around, not sure how long this sale will last.

This changes what I will be using for a motherboard though (previously considering GIGABYTE GA-P55A-UD3 motherboard for $143)

I'm trying to understand more about motherboards and what support for both CrossFire and SLI multi-GPU configurations actually means, how important USB 3.0 support is and anything else that I should know. So I'm still researching what all of this entails but if anyone has any links or suggestions on a motherboard I would be very grateful. :)

Minsc said:
Whether you get a i5 750, i7 860, or i7 920/930, or anything else, your performance will likely be with 5-20% of each other, and to go to the i7 920 you need to get a different motherboard and triple channel ram, so price will go up a decent amount.

The 5770 is not a bad card at all, see those benchmarks again, but another spending another $100 on the GPU instead of the CPU puts you in the price range of a 5850, which I believe should score around double the performance of the 5770, you'd have to check. It's definitely a bigger gain. Don't forget Fermi is out end of March too! There's a good chance that will surpass ATI's offerings.

You might even be spending more money to move from the i5 to the i7 920, enough that you might have been able to get a SSD in addition to your HDD. Then you could have your OS on the SSD and be enjoying one of the fastest upgrades money can buy (non-gaming), instead of a minor CPU upgrade.

What I plan on doing now that I've purchased a processor is looking for a motherboard. Since I got a pretty good deal on the processor I'm still not too concerned if I don't max it out right now to its highest potential (i.e. I might just do dual ram for now).

I figure I then have a few weeks to look for the right videocard and to see what's going on with Fermi.
 
Kyolux said:
I have a pc running on a AMD Phenom X3 8450 (2.10GHz) AM2+ and was looking into upgrading my processor sometime in the near future.

Should I stick with AM2+ chips or go withan AM3 one, which from the little investigation I've done are a bit cheaper price-wise? That would be, assuming I can figure out if I can get a BIOS update for my mobo that would support it (if I actually need it). Still need to lookup what model I actually have, and since I'm at work, no can do.

If your board supports AM3 chips, then yes, by all means buy the cheaper AM3 chips, most of them have lower TDPs as well. A CPU support list (as well as details on any necessary BIOS updates) should be on your motherboard manufacturer's website.
 
The Chef said:
I somehow managed to lose my fan speed controller for my Zalman CPU fan.

Im not familiar at all with these things, so can I just buy a universal fan controller or do I need the specific one that came with that fan?

Fan speed controllers are universal. They're just variable resistors that alter the voltage going through your fan.
 
brain_stew said:
If your board supports AM3 chips, then yes, by all means buy the cheaper AM3 chips, most of them have lower TDPs as well. A CPU support list (as well as details on any necessary BIOS updates) should be on your motherboard manufacturer's website.

I got a HP pre-built pc since last summer I didn't feel like building my own rig (I know...).

Anyway I had a pic on my cell of my motherboard (used for earlier referral), and by luck I had the printed name show up on it (Pegatron M2N78-LA).

hp website for Pegatron M2N78-LA said:
Socket AM2+ supports AM2, AM2+ and AM3* processors
Memory support is limited to DDR2 modules
Supports the following processors:
AMD Athlon X2 (Brisbane core, up to 95 Watt)
AMD Athlon 64 X2 up to 6000+ (Windsor core, up to 95 Watt)
AMD Phenom Triple-Core up to 8xxx (AM2+) (Toliman core, up to 95 Watt)
AMD Phenom Quad-Core 9xxx series (AM2+) up to 9850 (Agena core, up to 95 Watt)

NOTE: *Check motherboard specs to determine which processors are supported

Now I'm bummed because I can't find anything satisfying that runs at 95 Watt. (can I ignore this if I upgraded the PSU?)

I'll still check the manual when I get home though, if it isn't in a box sent to my new house yet.
 
Minsc said:
From the Tech Report guide I linked to a few pages back:



<3 my MVA Westinghouse 24" monitor, I'm not replacing it until it dies or I get a 120hz 3D monitor that isn't a TN.

So where do LEDs fall in the equation. I know they are essentially back lit LCDs, but are they the way to go for gaming ?

I just wanna know wat to look for.

Thnx a lot.
 
twdnewh_k said:
So where do LEDs fall in the equation. I know they are essentially back lit LCDs, but are they the way to go for gaming ?

I just wanna know wat to look for.

Thnx a lot.


The panel type is more important than backlight method for a PC monitor. If gaming is your primary purpose though you should just go with a low response TN panel and save the extra $$$. Asus 24inch or Acer are good brands.
 
Well I got my $180 Q9550 put in. Overclocked to 3.4 and running smooth. And I decided to sell my 4 gb of my Corsair XMS2. Don't really need 8 gb. Never uses more than 2 gb anyway. Also selling my Sapphire 4890 to pay off the XFX 5870 I bought this week. All ready for Bad Company 2.
 
R2D4 said:
Well I got my $180 Q9550 put in. Overclocked to 3.4 and running smooth. And I decided to sell my 4 gb of my Corsair XMS2. Don't really need 8 gb. Never uses more than 2 gb anyway. Also selling my Sapphire 4890 to pay off the XFX 5870 I bought this week. All ready for Bad Company 2.
You'll be kicking yourself when you see those Metro 2033 specs..
 
Two questions:

1. My 4850 is stupidly hot and loud. What would be my best bet for a replacement, in terms of similar performance with a similar price and less power draw/noise? 4770, or should I go with something faster like a 5770?

2. I have two 1GB modules of RAM running in dual-channel. My motherboard was 4 slots. What happens if I add a 2GB module? Would I be better off selling the 1GB modules and buying 2 2GB modules to keep things in dual-channel?
 
I NEED SCISSORS said:
You'll be kicking yourself when you see those Metro 2033 specs..


I don't know about that.

http://www.eurogamer.net/articles/digitalfoundry-metro2033-article?page=2

"We don't need as much system memory as other PC-only games. Anything above 512MB RAM with DX10/DX11 code-path on Win7 would be enough," Shishkovtsov says. "DirectX 9 uses system memory backing store for almost all GPU resources, so you should add around 256 MB to avoid page-file swapping.

"The CPU side is slightly more problematic. Because the system is heavily multi-threaded, we need at least two hardware threads for 'smooth' gameplay. The CPU performance doesn't matter that much, except on a few selected scenes during the whole game as long as it is relatively modern architecture (not Intel Atom!) and has more than one core."
 
I NEED SCISSORS said:
You'll be kicking yourself when you see those Metro 2033 specs..


As much ram as possible or 8 Gigs of ram is just another way of saying "If you payed a shitload for your computer, you'll be able to play this game".
 
Metro 2033 specs:

Minimum:

Dual core CPU (any Core 2 Duo or better will do)
DirectX 9, Shader Model 3 compliant graphics cards (GeForce 8800, GeForce GT220 and above)
1GB RAM

Recommended:

Any Quad Core or 3.0+ GHz Dual Core CPU
DirectX 10 compliant graphics card (GeForce GTX 260 and above)
2GB RAM

Optimum:

Core i7 CPU
NVIDIA DirectX 11 compliant graphics card (GeForce GTX 480 and 470)
As much RAM as possible (8GB+)
Fast HDD or SSD

:lol
 
I posted my problem a few pages back but I'll repost in detail

While applying Vsync on games, be that through D3D Overrider or the in-game options, or double buffered or triple buffered my framerate is locked at 55.4 instead of 60.

I have Win 7 Home Premium x64 and before that Vista Ultimate x64 and didn't have this problem on Vista. I've been using Windows 7 since launch. I have tested on my monitor (Dell 2208WFP) and my Pioneer 4280 plasma and it happens in both.

My card is a Sapphire Radeon 4850HD (on Catalyst 10.2 drivers) and on the CCC it's registering the refresh rate as 60hz. So I haven't got a clue what is going on.

P.S. Also have this weird stuttering on Grid (steam version) where the game just sort of freezes for a half a second, this also didn't happen on Vista.

Specs:
-Phenom ii X4 955 OC'ed to 3.5GHz
-Radeon 4850HD (stock)
-4GB of DDR3 1333Mhz at 1384 or there abouts due to mobo OC
-MSI 770-C45 mobo OC'ed to 260MHz on the bus (stable, its been tested on memtest, prime and OCCT)
-Edimax EW7128g wifi card
-HT Omega Claro sound card

Note: The wifi card has been there since back when I used XP and the problem started before I got the sound card. Its been tested with FRAPS and in game fps counters.
 
Aesius said:
Two questions:

1. My 4850 is stupidly hot and loud. What would be my best bet for a replacement, in terms of similar performance with a similar price and less power draw/noise? 4770, or should I go with something faster like a 5770?

2. I have two 1GB modules of RAM running in dual-channel. My motherboard was 4 slots. What happens if I add a 2GB module? Would I be better off selling the 1GB modules and buying 2 2GB modules to keep things in dual-channel?
For question 1, the 5770 would be what you want. Roughly on par performance-wise, but should run significantly cooler and use much less power. The 4770 would be a fairly decent decrease in performance.
 
Aesius said:
Two questions:

1. My 4850 is stupidly hot and loud. What would be my best bet for a replacement, in terms of similar performance with a similar price and less power draw/noise? 4770, or should I go with something faster like a 5770?

Eh? Don't downgrade just to get a quieter card. Buy yourself a third party cooler and use Riva-Tuner to keep the fan speed low.

http://www.arctic-cooling.com/catalog/main.php?cPath=2

The Accelero S1 Rev. 2 is your best choice "if" you have the space. Buy 1-2 120mm fans and mount them onto it with a zip-tie. Very large solution (basically around 3 PCI slots), but extremely cool and quiet. Otherwise, that Accelero Twin Turbo is still way better than any stock cooler.

As always though with these coolers, decent airflow in your case is important since they dump the hot air in your case. If you have an intake and an exhaust you should be fine.

Here's directly from their site:

AcceleroTwinTurbo_chart.gif
 
I NEED SCISSORS said:
Metro 2033 specs:

Minimum:

Dual core CPU (any Core 2 Duo or better will do)
DirectX 9, Shader Model 3 compliant graphics cards (GeForce 8800, GeForce GT220 and above)
1GB RAM

Recommended:

Any Quad Core or 3.0+ GHz Dual Core CPU
DirectX 10 compliant graphics card (GeForce GTX 260 and above)
2GB RAM

Optimum:

Core i7 CPU
NVIDIA DirectX 11 compliant graphics card (GeForce GTX 480 and 470)
As much RAM as possible (8GB+)
Fast HDD or SSD

:lol
Would there be a reason they specified an Nvidia DX11 card rather than just any DX11 card such as a 5850/5870?
 
I assume it's a 'The way it's meant to be played' title because nVidia helped them implement 3D and they made a marketing deal rather than pay them directly for the development costs. Just a guess though.
 
fatty said:
Well, stopped by my local Microcenter during lunch and I see that the Intel Core i7-920 Bloomfield is on sale for only $200, only a few bucks more than my previous consideration of the Intel Core i5-750 Lynnfield! So impulse buy mode took over and I got it right then.

So if you're interested check your local store if you have one around, not sure how long this sale will last.

This changes what I will be using for a motherboard though (previously considering GIGABYTE GA-P55A-UD3 motherboard for $143)

I'm trying to understand more about motherboards and what support for both CrossFire and SLI multi-GPU configurations actually means, how important USB 3.0 support is and anything else that I should know. So I'm still researching what all of this entails but if anyone has any links or suggestions on a motherboard I would be very grateful. :)



What I plan on doing now that I've purchased a processor is looking for a motherboard. Since I got a pretty good deal on the processor I'm still not too concerned if I don't max it out right now to its highest potential (i.e. I might just do dual ram for now).

I figure I then have a few weeks to look for the right videocard and to see what's going on with Fermi.

Do yourself a favor and get all the parts within two or three weeks and put it together before your grace period for easy returns expires.

Find a Gigabyte if there's any with good reviews, they seem to have less issues with RAM and are easily to install than Asus ones. Just search for reviews.

USB 3.0 is only important if you need faster speeds than USB 2.0 offers. I'd say it's really a relatively unimportant feature, but some people would disagree. There's certainly no point in not having it, but I'm not going to miss it, I'm happy with USB 2 speeds.

You'll need to get either 3 or 6 gigs of RAM (it's sold in packs and tested as a unit, so you buy 3x2GB in a single pack, and put those 3 sticks in one of the sets of RAM slots... they are usually alternating from one set to the next, so every other slot), when you pick your motherboard, go to the site and find the details on the RAM it supports and only pick from that RAM unless you want to risk having problems. I'd go with 6GB if you can fit it in, but I read a review that pitted 3GB against 6GB across a few dozen apps and games, and 6GB offered almost no benefit.

Of course, if you run a bunch of apps and don't close them, things can change quickly.

Support for multi-GPU configurations is a little overrated. SLI or XFire introduces framerate issues, and compatibility problems. It's usually cheaper to buy a single card than purchase SLI. It's a pretty standard feature though, but likely you'll never use it. If you're "only" getting a 5770, simply selling it and buying a 5850 or Fermi down the road will be a huge upgrade, and your CPU would definitely be up to the task, especially if overclocked.

Also, get a really good cooler for your CPU if you can. I'd recommend a Prolimatech Megahalems, it's a bit pricey (and likely overkill, so you'll end up finding something else), but a good cooler is important for keeping your CPU cool! I'm running a i7 920 overclocked to slightly past 965 levels, and I have my case fans running at only 1000RPM (really quiet), and I only hit the high 60s / low 70s on full load.

Good luck putting it all together, it's time consuming and frustrating when something goes wrong. Be sure to have easy access to the internet while you're assembling, and realize that while GAF is very helpful for troubleshooting, your problems could end up being better answered through google or another forum... I see people panic in this thread once and a while, and they usually end up finding their own solution before someone responds.
 
So, I ordered everything I need for my new PC except for the processor, which I'll be buying from Microcenter within the next week. By the time I purchase the cpu, I'll end up around $200 over my original budget. I'm really hoping I don't get a component that's DOA. I'm not 100% sure about newegg's policies about returns or exchanges.

I also wanted to thank everyone that helped me out. It's awesome how supportive the PC community is here.

I do have a couple more questions. First, what's the best thermal paste? I had some arctic silver, but I can't find it. I'm wondering if there's anything better, or if I should buy the same stuff.

On another note, I may overclock my i5-750. Besides buying the thermal paste it'll have stock cooling. What are safe idle/low use and load temps? Also, I'm wondering what speeds people were able to reach here on stock cooling.
 
Kinda on-topic

I just installed Windows 7 from the RC, it created a Windows.old folder that is taking up 50 gigs. Can I just "Shift+delete" that folder and be on my marry little way or is it better to do a fresh install? Would deleting that folder be the equivalent of a fresh install anyway?

Thanks Gaf.
 
Lion Heart said:
Kinda on-topic

I just installed Windows 7 from the RC, it created a Windows.old folder that is taking up 50 gigs. Can I just "Shift+delete" that folder and be on my marry little way or is it better to do a fresh install? Would deleting that folder be the equivalent of a fresh install anyway?

Thanks Gaf.


No you want to do a disk cleanup on that drive, but when you launch disk clean up look for an option at the bottom called clean up system files or something like that. Run that and it should take care of it for you. It probably wont let you delete just by throwing it in the recycle bin anyway.
 
Minsc said:
Do yourself a favor and get all the parts within two or three weeks and put it together before your grace period for easy returns expires.
.

You would do well to listen to this advice, heck I'd probably go one further and suggest ordering it all at once if possible.
 
Lkr said:
5830 haters: its at least a much better stepup from my gts 250 though, right?

Its just a horrible GPU at a horrible pricepoint, yes its a stepup from a GTS 250, of course, but there's no way I could recommend it to anyone. Its the joint biggest single GPU card, has a higher TDP than the 5850, is horribly priced and performs worse than a 4890 pretty much accross the board. Get a 5850 or don't update yet, don't settle for a 5830, its a really shitty card. Oh, and to top it all off ATI paper launched it, definitely goes to show what happens when your competition leaves the building.
 
BravoSuperStar said:
No you want to do a disk cleanup on that drive, but when you launch disk clean up look for an option at the bottom called clean up system files or something like that. Run that and it should take care of it for you. It probably wont let you delete just by throwing it in the recycle bin anyway.

I just threw it in the trash when I installed retail from RC and had no problems. What kind of problems do you expect?
 
brain_stew said:
Its just a horrible GPU at a horrible pricepoint, yes its a stepup from a GTS 250, of course, but there's no way I could recommend it to anyone. Its the joint biggest single GPU card, has a higher TDP than the 5850, is horribly priced and performs worse than a 4890 pretty much accross the board. Get a 5850 or don't update yet, don't settle for a 5830, its a really shitty card. Oh, and to top it all off ATI paper launched it, definitely goes to show what happens when your competition leaves the building.
what does 'paper launch' mean? and I guess I will get the 5850 when/if it comes down in price
 
coopolon said:
I just threw it in the trash when I installed retail from RC and had no problems. What kind of problems do you expect?

Nothing really, but thats the proper way to do it. Windows may still have some old links in the registry or something to those files. Don't think it would hurt your PC to delete it either way though.

Lkr said:
what does 'paper launch' mean? and I guess I will get the 5850 when/if it comes down in price

Paper launch is when a company says they are releasing a product, but due to supply, or whatever you can't actually buy one in a store at the time of the announcement release.
 
Lkr said:
what does 'paper launch' mean? and I guess I will get the 5850 when/if it comes down in price

It means they launched the card without properly stocking the channel. Most brands won't have any 5830s ready to sell until sometime next week.
 
twdnewh_k said:
So where do LEDs fall in the equation. I know they are essentially back lit LCDs, but are they the way to go for gaming ?

I just wanna know wat to look for.

Thnx a lot.

LEDs, the Samsung xl2370 for example, make the screen really bright. Whites are really really white. Looks nice. For gaming, you want a TN panel anyway. I don't miss my old IPS panel one bit.

120hz is probably the next awesome thing for LCD monitors. Super fast refresh rate, it sjust at $400 too much $$$ for me.

SAMSUNG/LG are the way to go for monitors. Dells high enders are pretty nice too but they're IPS.


some examples of what this monitor looks like:
SDC10150.JPG

SDC10151.JPG
 
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