"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]

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drakesfortune said:
Sorry, I bumped down to a 600w corsair last night when people seemed to poo poo the Rosewill case, I need to update my build.

Here's the one I have in my cart now: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139028



For cases, anyone use or like the Lancool case here:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811112239
The XFX has a rebate too and is much better built than the CX line.
I you don't like the window, don't get that case. Just buy the Rosewill alone if you like it.
HotHamWater said:
My new build is working fine, but Windows isn't displaying my new HDD. I've got Windows installed onto a 200GB drive, and this new build has a secondary 1TB drive that isn't being displayed in the normal way.

It's in the bios, and shows up using "list disk" in disk part. Am I missing something here? All drivers are up to date.
Disk/Drive Management
Initialize the disk and make a partition
 
chaosblade said:
I don't think you would be disappointed with that for $60. Gives the HAF 912 some good competition in that price range (way better than the Antec 300...).

Problem that I've noticed with Rosewill cases (and I assume Rosewill products in general) is that they tend to offer more features for the price than their competitors, at the expense of quality.

Whats wrong with the Antec 300 case?
 
I have an ABS 595 Canyon case and while quiet I want it to be quieter by replacing the three 120mm fans up front, the 120mm exhaust fan and the two 60mm exhaust/hard drive fans.

What fans are my best bet if I want quiet but the ability to adjust their RPM?

Would I need a fan controller?
 
wowzors said:
Whats wrong with the Antec 300 case?
It's just a poor value. Actually it's okay right now on Newegg, $45 after rebate (although it should be $45 without the rebate). The only thing it really has going for it is build quality and (IMO) looks.

-Edit: Build quality is an issue? And I could see airflow, but my Antec 300 seems very solid, that's like it's best feature, ha-

Other cases in the $60 range (where the 300 is usually) offer better cable management, room for bigger video cards (6900/580 MIGHT fit... but if they do it's extremely close), tool-less bays, more fans, etc. Some of the issues have been rectified, apparently it does have a motherboard tray cutout to get to the CPU backplate, and they include an adapter for an SSD. The Illusion model includes a couple front fans for $5-$10 more, which helps too.

Still, for the price the Shinobi posted above or the HAF 912 give you more for your money.
 
I can't count the number of them I've seen fall apart. If you're going to put it in one spot, only open it to clean it and maybe make an upgrade once a year, it'll be fine. It's just not to the same level as CM, BitFenix, or NZXT. TBH, it seems like Antec has more or less given up on innovating since they have access to such a huge market through big box retailers.
 
I wouldn't go with the Antec 300, if only because the cable management situation isn't ideal. (The same can be said of the 900 and the 1200). There are better options at each respective price point.

Edit: Just checked to make sure there wasn't a revision I didn't know about. There isn't. The 300 still doesn't have cable management holes, according to the pictures on newegg.
 
I'm looking at the XFX 750w Black Edition, the XFX Pro 550w edition or XFX XXX 650w edition. I realize the 750w one is silver which is nice (and modular too), but it's either really popular or completely sold out/understocked. Which of the 550w or 650w XFX versions comes next. Or is there another 500-700 modular PSU in the same quality-price range as the XFXs?
 
These are the four I've narrowed the case search down to, which is the quietest?

COOLER MASTER RC-692-KKN2 CM690 II
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119216

BitFenix Survivor
https://store.bitfenix.com/survivor

BitFenix Shinobi
https://store.bitfenix.com/chassis?product_id=56

Lian Li Lancool PC-K62
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811112239

I have to be honest, I'm really leaning toward the Shinobi, because it seems to have everything I need, it's listed as a quiet option on the OP, and next to the Survivor is the nicest looking IMO.

Hazaro said:
The XFX has a rebate too and is much better built than the CX line.
I you don't like the window, don't get that case. Just buy the Rosewill alone if you like it.


Thanks, I'll go with the XFX then. I appreciate the input, I'm heavily relying on the advice here in this thread. I don't pay much attention to the stuff except when I'm building a computer.

One more question the i7 2600k is only $80 more than the i5 2500k right now on NewEgg. Is that worth it for gaming/multitasking? I watched the vids on NewEgg, but they don't go very far into explaining how big a difference it is between the 2. From what I gather, the i7 2600 allows hyperthreading allowing for 8 paths across the 4 processors instead 4 straight paths into the four processors on the I5 2500k. Plus it's got a slightly faster stock speed. I don't know if that makes any difference for gaming though.
 
I bought...


MSI P67A-G43 (B3) LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard


For Storage it includes:


SATA 3Gb/s
4

SATA 6Gb/s
2 x SATA 6Gb/s

SATA RAID
SATA3~6 ports support RAID 0/1/5/10 mode by Intel P67
SATA1~2 ports support RAID 0/1 mode by Intel P67

Expansion Slots are

PCI Express 2.0 x16
2 (x16, x8)

PCI Express x1
3

PCI Slots
2



I bought a HDD Seagate 500GB and it says "+5V 0.6A" "+12V 0.42A"
I had an older one that says 300GB and "+5V 0.72A" "+12v 0.52A"
What do those mean? The 300GB was from a computer about 5 years older or so...
This is compatible with the above right?


Also what is Thermal Compound for? Is it nessary?
I got a i5 2500k does it come with a heatsink and fan or is that separate?
 
SnakeSlashRO said:
I bought a HDD Seagate 500GB and it says "+5V 0.6A" "+12V 0.42A"
I had an older one that says 300GB and "+5V 0.72A" "+12v 0.52A"
What do those mean? The 300GB was from a computer about 5 years older or so...
This is compatible with the above right?


Also what is Thermal Compound for? Is it nessary?
I got a i5 2500k does it come with a heatsink and fan or is that separate?
Is the old HDD IDE?

The 2500K retail box comes with a stock heatsink and fan.
 
SnakeSlashRO said:
I bought a HDD Seagate 500GB and it says "+5V 0.6A" "+12V 0.42A"
I had an older one that says 300GB and "+5V 0.72A" "+12v 0.52A"
What do those mean? The 300GB was from a computer about 5 years older or so...
This is compatible with the above right?


Also what is Thermal Compound for? Is it nessary?
I got a i5 2500k does it come with a heatsink and fan or is that separate?

Thermal compound seals in the tiny cracks in both the processor, and the heatsink, and helps with thermal conductivity. It is mandatory (you can't go without it). Watch some of the videos in the OP to learn how to apply it. Stock cooler will have it pre-applied (it'll be grey on the bottom of the heatsink).

As for the HDD, yes, it is "compatible" if by "compatible" you mean you can hook it into the mobo, and see it come up in Windows as free space (or use it as an OS drive, etc). It will not RAID with the other one, if that is what you mean.


drakesfortune said:
One more question the i7 2600k is only $80 more than the i5 2500k right now on NewEgg. Is that worth it for gaming/multitasking? I watched the vids on NewEgg, but they don't go very far into explaining how big a difference it is between the 2. From what I gather, the i7 2600 allows hyperthreading allowing for 8 paths across the 4 processors instead 4 straight paths into the four processors on the I5 2500k. Plus it's got a slightly faster stock speed. I don't know if that makes any difference for gaming though.

If you do a lot of media work (encoding, rendering, etc), go with the 2600k. If not, go for the 2500k. You'll see absolutely no benefit in gaming with the 2600k. That money is better spent on a beefier video card, or something else along those lines. Get a CM Hyper 212+ heatsink, and you can OC the 2500k to somewhere around 4.5ghz, and not need to think about a CPU bottleneck for a few years to come.

As for a case, honestly, "quietness" has as much to do with the components inside your case, as it does with the actual case. You could get something like the Fractal Design R3 (with acoustic foam to dampen noise) and your loud ass video card could ruin any sense of quiet that the case may have provided.

If you truly want to go quiet, you're looking at buying low RPM fans, a fan controller, a custom cooled video card, etc. It's a lot more intensive of a process than just buying a quiet case.

(I solved this issue by putting my computer inside a walk in closet, way away from me. Could not be happier with that decision.)
 
drakesfortune said:
One more question the i7 2600k is only $80 more than the i5 2500k right now on NewEgg. Is that worth it for gaming/multitasking? I watched the vids on NewEgg, but they don't go very far into explaining how big a difference it is between the 2. From what I gather, the i7 2600 allows hyperthreading allowing for 8 paths across the 4 processors instead 4 straight paths into the four processors on the I5 2500k. Plus it's got a slightly faster stock speed. I don't know if that makes any difference for gaming though.
Can't speak for the noise level on the cases, but Hyperthreading won't do you any good for general use or gaming. If you need Hyperthreading, chances are you will know your software benefits from it. If you aren't sure, you most likely don't need it.

That's the only notable difference. The clock speed is negligible since the 2500k OCs so well.

Thermal compound seals in the tiny cracks in both the processor, and the heatsink, and helps with thermal conductivity. It is mandatory (you can't go without it). Watch some of the videos in the OP to learn how to apply it. Stock cooler will have it pre-applied (it'll be grey on the bottom of the heatsink).
If you lap your CPU and heatsink well enough... :P
 
drakesfortune said:
One more question the i7 2600k is only $80 more than the i5 2500k right now on NewEgg. Is that worth it for gaming/multitasking? I watched the vids on NewEgg, but they don't go very far into explaining how big a difference it is between the 2. From what I gather, the i7 2600 allows hyperthreading allowing for 8 paths across the 4 processors instead 4 straight paths into the four processors on the I5 2500k. Plus it's got a slightly faster stock speed. I don't know if that makes any difference for gaming though.

For games, you won't see a difference until you get above 90 FPS and even then it's a average 2% difference. So there is really no noticeable difference in terms of gaming. If your most CPU heavy/intensive function is gaming and you don't need powerful multithreading there's no reason to get the 2600k over the 2500k.
 
Can I kindly ask GAF to help me on a quick one?

I need a wireless Mouse. It has to be Wireless, it needs to work on a Mac.

It's for a MacBook Pro 13" and it need to be ordered from Amazon.UK.

Any help would be greatly appreciated (I was going to post on Gaming mouse GAF but don't have to serve a gaming purpose)

If you decide to help me, thank you very much in advance. I'm lost when it comes to Mouses...
 
The_Monk said:
Can I kindly ask GAF to help me on a quick one?

I need a wireless Mouse. It has to be Wireless, it needs to work on a Mac.

It's for a MacBook Pro 13" and it need to be ordered from Amazon.UK.

Any help would be greatly appreciated (I was going to post on Gaming mouse GAF but don't have to serve a gaming purpose)

If you decide to help me, thank you very much in advance. I'm lost when it comes to Mouses...

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002NX0M8C/

Apple makes an official wireless mouse, if you're going for a theme.

(If not, I'm not up to date on Mac compatible mice)
 
I'm really desperate for some juicy information on Ivy Bridge. Everything I've read so far is based on engineering samples and compared to the current Sandy Bridge CPUs, the results are less than stellar. I'm desperate to give my PC an overhaul, not because it's a slouch but it's just messy, the case is old and ugly, HDDs need replacing, CPU is running a tad hot and the overclocks aren't impressive, cable management is all to shit, airflow is wonky etc.

So I just want to start clean, use a few of my older parts and then get a new motherboard, an i5 or i7 SB and then ride it out until Haswell core hits.
 
the store's tech guy couldnt figure out the noise and said that everything was normal, but the store was really noisy so there was no point in testing there..

sent an RMA ticket for the PSU, have the option to change the Mobo, store dude said it was probably the CPU, ugghhh
 
Which of these 64GB SSDs is currently the best value, i.e. relatively fast, reliable, and affordable?

ADATA Turbo USB & SATAIII 64GB (I don't know much about this brand)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820211479

Kingston SSDNow SATAII 64GB (by far the best value for $65 AR)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820139415

Corsair Force Series 3 SATAIII 60GB (I just picked this one because of its similar price - for or against Corsair?)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233194

Crucial M4 SATAIII 64GB (very good reviews and excellent read speeds, I think this is it)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148441

Samsung 470 SATAII 64GB (it's Samsung so it looks nice)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147062

Explanation: I know you guys prefer 128GB SSDs but I worked out that I can easily fit W7 and all of my programs (both 21 gigs on my laptop) and have plenty of room for more programs and extra performance. My games and any huge programs can go on a 1TB Samsung Spinpoint and I'll store my personal files on an external HDD.
 
ChoklitReign said:
Which of these 64GB SSDs is currently the best value, i.e. relatively fast, reliable, and affordable?

ADATA Turbo USB & SATAIII 64GB (I don't know much about this brand)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820211479

Kingston SSDNow SATAII 64GB (by far the best value for $65 AR)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820139415

Corsair Force Series 3 SATAIII 60GB (I just picked this one because of its similar price - for or against Corsair?)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233194

Crucial M4 SATAIII 64GB (very good reviews and excellent read speeds, I think this is it)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148441

Samsung 470 SATAII 64GB (it's Samsung so it looks nice)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147062

Explanation: I know you guys prefer 128GB SSDs but I worked out that I can easily fit W7 and all of my programs (both 21 gigs on my laptop) and have plenty of room for more programs and extra performance. My games and any huge programs can go on a 1TB Samsung Spinpoint and I'll store my personal files on an external HDD.

I would go with the M4. A lot of people have bought it, and no issues have come up, which is generally a good sign.
 
Okay, need some quick advice and no "You are crazy" or "Wait for Ivy Bridge <Insert name>" I've decided to wait for Haswell until my next major upgrade.

Current specifications.

Sabretooth X58 TuF
Intel Core i7 940 @ 3.8 GHz
Noctua NH-U12P ( Dual 120mm + MX-2 )
MSI Twin Frozr II/OC GTX 580 ( Recently up/downgraded from 5970 )
Corsair 3 x 2GB DDR3 1333MHz
Corsair 750W
Antec 1200 Case
2 x Samsung Spinpoint 750GB
WD 64GB SSD
Asus Xonar Essence STX

The CPU I have is one of the first revisions. It's running hot and the overclocks do have some stability issues, plus I can't push it very far without issues. The RAM are basically cheap budget versions and aren't very impressive in tests.

So I obviously want to keep everything above and upgrade the Motherboard, CPU, Cooler and RAM, possibly the HDDs to some 1TB or higher.

My initial thoughts were

Mobo: Asus SABERTOOTH P67 REV3 Ultimate Stability
CPU: Intel Core i7 2600K Sandy Bridge ( Can get it for almost the same price as the i5 2500k, so I'd be stupid not to )
RAM: Undecided, is it worth going 1800MHz and SB is Dual-Channel only, right?
Cooler: No idea, need recommendations and hopefully one that doesn't obscure RAM slots.
Case: Also need some recommendations, average price-range, great cooling and good look. Plus easy to cable manage.
 
Woo, thanks GAF for putting me on to AVADirect, awesome site!

INTEL, Core™ i7-2600K Quad-Core 3.4GHz, HD Graphics 3000, LGA1155, 8MB L3 Cache, 32nm, 95W, EM64T EIST HT TB VT-x XD, Retail

INTEL, DP67BGB3, LGA1155, Intel® P67, DDR3-1600 (O.C.) 32GB /4, PCIe x16 SLI CF /2, SATA 3Gb/s RAID 5 /4, 6Gb/s /2, USB 3.0 /2, HDA, GbLAN, FW /2, ATX, Retail

KINGSTON, 8GB (2 x 4GB) HyperX Genesis PC3-10600 DDR3 1333MHz CL7 1.65V SDRAM DIMM, Non-ECC

EVGA, GeForce® GTX 570 HD (AR) 732MHz, 1280MB GDDR5 3800MHz, PCIe x16 SLI, 2x DVI+HDMI+DP, Retail

CREATIVE, Sound Blaster® Audigy® SE, 7.1 channels, 24-bit, 96KHz, PCI, Retail

SEAGATE, 1TB Constellation™ ES, SATA 6 Gb/s, 7200 RPM, 64MB cache

SEAGATE, 1.5TB Barracuda® 7200.11, SATA 3 Gb/s NCQ, 7200 RPM, 32MB cache

RAID, No RAID, Independent HDD Drives

KOUTECH, RCM630 All-in-One Card Reader, 3.5" Bay, USB 3.0 /2

SONY, AD-7261S Black 24x DVD±R/RW Dual-Layer Burner w/ Lightscribe, SATA, OEM

COOLER MASTER, Elite 330 Black Mid Tower Case, ATX, No PSU, Steel

COOLER MASTER, Silent Pro M 850W Power Supply w/ Modular Cables, 80 PLUS® Bronze, ATX12V 2.3 EPS12V 2.92, 6x 8/6-pin PCIe, SLI® Certified, Retail

MICROSOFT, Windows 7 Professional 64-bit Edition w/ SP1, OEM

SERVICE, OEM System Recovery (bootable CD/DVD only)

GAMING PC, Gold Warranty Package (3 Year Limited Parts & Lifetime Labor Warranty, Express/Priority Service)
 
amazon had the 2500k for 215.99 the other day. Sucks I missed it. Small price cuts like that may not seem like much but for me thats a deal breaker.

edit: Christ that Samsung SSd is sexy
 
Sethos said:
Okay, need some quick advice and no "You are crazy" or "Wait for Ivy Bridge <Insert name>" I've decided to wait for Haswell until my next major upgrade.

Current specifications.

Sabretooth X58 TuF
Intel Core i7 940 @ 3.8 GHz
Noctua NH-U12P ( Dual 120mm + MX-2 )
MSI Twin Frozr II/OC GTX 580 ( Recently up/downgraded from 5970 )
Corsair 3 x 2GB DDR3 1333MHz
Corsair 750W
Antec 1200 Case
2 x Samsung Spinpoint 750GB
WD 64GB SSD
Asus Xonar Essence STX

The CPU I have is one of the first revisions. It's running hot and the overclocks do have some stability issues, plus I can't push it very far without issues. The RAM are basically cheap budget versions and aren't very impressive in tests.

So I obviously want to keep everything above and upgrade the Motherboard, CPU, Cooler and RAM, possibly the HDDs to some 1TB or higher.

My initial thoughts were

Mobo: Asus SABERTOOTH P67 REV3 Ultimate Stability
CPU: Intel Core i7 2600K Sandy Bridge ( Can get it for almost the same price as the i5 2500k, so I'd be stupid not to )
RAM: Undecided, is it worth going 1800MHz and SB is Dual-Channel only, right?
Cooler: No idea, need recommendations and hopefully one that doesn't obscure RAM slots.
Case: Also need some recommendations, average price-range, great cooling and good look. Plus easy to cable manage.

Mobo: I'd go with a cheaper mobo. I'm not sure if the plastic cover on the SABERTOOTH actually does anything for temps, but it certainly brings the price up for no reason. If you want to go for it though, it's certainly not a bad board. It's just not going to give you a whole lot more performance than something like this (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130583) at half the price. Better boards are generally only necessary for high OC's (overvolting, especially), and multi-GPU rigs.

CPU: If you can get a 2600k for around the price of a 2500k, go for it.

RAM: Get the cheapest RAM you can find. Really, it doesn't make a whole lot of difference, except in synthetic benchmarks. I suggest a set of 8gb G.Skill, like this one http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231308 or this one http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231426

Cooler: You can't go wrong with the Cooler Master Hyper 212+ for $25-$30.

Case: There are a lot of choices in the OP, at a lot of price ranges. I like the Fractal Design R3 for $100-ish. If that isn't your idea of average, the CM HAF 912 is the best at $60 IMO (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119233)

Honestly, I don't know why you are upgrading. Your CPU isn't likely to bottleneck you in any games, and you've already got a 580. I would wait a gen, at least.
 
SalsaShark said:
idle noise here, and even loud coil whine when the PC is off. Something's wrong

Buy a UPS and see if your power isn't just horribly unclean. Let the thing charge, hook the PC up to it, and then yank the UPS power out of the wall. See if you still have noise while on battery power.
 
LordCanti said:
Buy a UPS and see if your power isn't just horribly unclean. Let the thing charge, hook the PC up to it, and then yank the UPS power out of the wall. See if you still have noise while on battery power.

check my posts in the previous pages to better understand the issue, apparently im getting a noisy whine with both the PSU's ive tried (Antec TP 750w, Thermaltake 775w), so i might just change the mobo in hopes that fixes it. Problem is that this new Antec one is also producing this loud coil whine when the PC is off, so i better just change it as well. Gonna wait if my RMA ticket goes through (hopefully they'll take "loud coil whine" as an acceptable issue), i'll test it then and if its still there im gonna change the mobo.
 
SalsaShark said:
check my posts in the previous pages to better understand the issue, apparently im getting a noisy whine with both the PSU's ive tried (Antec TP 750w, Thermaltake 775w), so i might just change the mobo in hopes that fixes it. Problem is that this new Antec one is also producing this loud coil whine when the PC is off, so i better just change it as well. Gonna wait if my RMA ticket goes through (hopefully they'll take "loud coil whine" as an acceptable issue), i'll test it then and if its still there im gonna change the mobo.

Is the whine coming from the PSU, or the mobo? I would figure that out first, if you can. If the mobo isn't making noise, there really isn't any reason to replace it.
 
LordCanti said:
Mobo: I'd go with a cheaper mobo. I'm not sure if the plastic cover on the SABERTOOTH actually does anything for temps, but it certainly brings the price up for no reason. If you want to go for it though, it's certainly not a bad board. It's just not going to give you a whole lot more performance than something like this (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130583) at half the price. Better boards are generally only necessary for high OC's (overvolting, especially), and multi-GPU rigs.

CPU: If you can get a 2600k for around the price of a 2500k, go for it.

RAM: Get the cheapest RAM you can find. Really, it doesn't make a whole lot of difference, except in synthetic benchmarks. I suggest a set of 8gb G.Skill, like this one http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231308 or this one http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231426

Cooler: You can't go wrong with the Cooler Master Hyper 212+ for $25-$30.

Case: There are a lot of choices in the OP, at a lot of price ranges. I like the Fractal Design R3 for $100-ish. If that isn't your idea of average, the CM HAF 912 is the best at $60 IMO (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119233)

Honestly, I don't know why you are upgrading. Your CPU isn't likely to bottleneck you in any games, and you've already got a 580. I would wait a gen, at least.

Thanks for the input man, appreciate it.

I took your advice on the RAM and jumped down a few notches, found a decent offer on a pair of Kingston 8GB DDR3 1600MHz (2x4) HyperX "Grey Series". Also found the HYPER 212 - Anything I need with that, besides some paste? As for the case the CM 690 II Advanced caught my eye and some of my friends recommended it as well, so I think that's what I'll be going for.

As for the motherboard, I know there's a billion cheaper ones but I have this black cloud hanging over my head when it comes to motherboards - Every. single. time I go cheap they crap out on my - The TUF I have now is a replacement over a cheap ASUS board. So I might stick with it :P

So overall, does it sound good, is the case I picked big enough to fit it all?
 
Sethos said:
Thanks for the input man, appreciate it.

I took your advice on the RAM and jumped down a few notches, found a decent offer on a pair of Kingston 8GB DDR3 1600MHz (2x4) HyperX "Grey Series". Also found the HYPER 212 - Anything I need with that, besides some paste? As for the case the CM 690 II Advanced caught my eye and some of my friends recommended it as well, so I think that's what I'll be going for.

As for the motherboard, I know there's a billion cheaper ones but I have this black cloud hanging over my head when it comes to motherboards - Every. single. time I go cheap they crap out on my - The TUF I have now is a replacement over a cheap ASUS board. So I might stick with it :P

So overall, does it sound good, is the case I picked big enough to fit it all?

Looks like a great case, according to Rodney Reynolds (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ed4RC6r2NTk). Fits cards up to 12", so you should be fine with the GTX 580. Also seems to have plenty of clearance for the Hyper 212.

Seems like the upgrade bug has hit you hard. I'm not sure you'll get any better framerates, but...well....actually, I've got nothing. It should be fun to put together, at the very least :P

Oh, and the 212 should come with thermal paste.
 
Flying_Phoenix said:
After doing some research I've finally discovered the OCZ Agility slow speed situation.

It turns out the controller it uses is particularly focused on compressed data. When the data can be compressed it goes lightning fast, however when the data is in compressible, then I receive the speeds I get.

I'm just curious what are some situations where the data is incompressible?

Would game loading and loading keyframes on Flash be some?

I'm wanting to ask about this, too. I got my new 120GB Corsair Force 3 today, and I didn't know the difference between Force GT and 3, so I was a bit let down when I found out the difference of speed.

I found this conclusion:
"The same scenarios can be drawn out by those using SSDs for video editing but suffice it to say that if you are looking for a SSD for everyday use, the Force 3 is an excellent choice. If, however, you are using the drive to regularly move large incompressible files, the Force GT is your best choice."


So the big question now is "what is moving large incompressible files"? When I open up my music editing program and load 5 GB of samples for one piano, is that considered compressible or incompressible?
 
Sethos said:
Okay, need some quick advice and no "You are crazy" or "Wait for Ivy Bridge <Insert name>" I've decided to wait for Haswell until my next major upgrade.

Current specifications.

Sabretooth X58 TuF
Intel Core i7 940 @ 3.8 GHz
Noctua NH-U12P ( Dual 120mm + MX-2 )
MSI Twin Frozr II/OC GTX 580 ( Recently up/downgraded from 5970 )
Corsair 3 x 2GB DDR3 1333MHz
Corsair 750W
Antec 1200 Case
2 x Samsung Spinpoint 750GB
WD 64GB SSD
Asus Xonar Essence STX

The CPU I have is one of the first revisions. It's running hot and the overclocks do have some stability issues, plus I can't push it very far without issues. The RAM are basically cheap budget versions and aren't very impressive in tests.

So I obviously want to keep everything above and upgrade the Motherboard, CPU, Cooler and RAM, possibly the HDDs to some 1TB or higher.

My initial thoughts were

Mobo: Asus SABERTOOTH P67 REV3 Ultimate Stability
CPU: Intel Core i7 2600K Sandy Bridge ( Can get it for almost the same price as the i5 2500k, so I'd be stupid not to )
RAM: Undecided, is it worth going 1800MHz and SB is Dual-Channel only, right?
Cooler: No idea, need recommendations and hopefully one that doesn't obscure RAM slots.
Case: Also need some recommendations, average price-range, great cooling and good look. Plus easy to cable manage.

980-990x. Go big or go home chump! :P

Seems silly to upgrade to sandybridge from X58 though. Most monster rigs I see are still being built on X58. You're not going to see any sort of performance improvement. When you're that baller, the bottleneck is all in the GPU. If you're not happy with your current proc, just get another 9XX proc. Will save you a *ton* of cash.
 
You guys did read my reasons, right? My current CPU is not stable, it's running way too hot now and the benchmarks compared to the new SB and first-revision i7s based on the old socket has a large percentage difference in CPU intensive tests. I have money, I want to rid my computer of these unstable parts and I want to get rid of my current case, so I might as well cut all the way into the bone and just blow a bit of money. Even my RAM aren't stable, I tried them in another computer and they have a tendency to error out.
 
Got the video card today! All I have left to order is the cpu, mobo, and case now.

Also looking for Crysis for cheap somewhere. Partly because I'm interested in playing it as a game, and partly that I feel it's a rite of passage for a PC gamer to benchmark Crysis on a new system. =D
 
LordCanti said:
Is the whine coming from the PSU, or the mobo? I would figure that out first, if you can. If the mobo isn't making noise, there really isn't any reason to replace it.

I really wanna say the PSU, but i find it really weird that ive gotten the same whine with two completely different PSUs :/, guess i'll see when i get the RMA
 
Sethos said:
You guys did read my reasons, right? My current CPU is not stable, it's running way too hot now and the benchmarks compared to the new SB and first-revision i7s based on the old socket has a large percentage difference in CPU intensive tests. I have money, I want to rid my computer of these unstable parts and I want to get rid of my current case, so I might as well cut all the way into the bone and just blow a bit of money. Even my RAM aren't stable, I tried them in another computer and they have a tendency to error out.

You said it wasn't stable OC'd. I took that to mean that it was stable when not OC'd. That rig would still not bottleneck a 580, at stock RAM/CPU/etc speeds.

If it's unstable though, I understand the desire to upgrade.

SalsaShark said:
I really wanna say the PSU, but i find it really weird that ive gotten the same whine with two completely different PSUs :/, guess i'll see when i get the RMA

Take the mobo out of the case, as well as the PSU. Hook it all back up (on a plastic bag or something), and try to locate the source of the whine. Don't be afraid to get your ear pretty close (you won't need to leave the computer on long enough for anything to get hot).
 
LordCanti said:
You said it wasn't stable OC'd. I took that to mean that it was stable when not OC'd. That rig would still not bottleneck a 580, at stock RAM/CPU/etc speeds.

If it's unstable though, I understand the desire to upgrade.

Yes but who cares what the CPU can and can't do non-OC'd :P ? I had it over a friends house, he tried messing around with it on his gear and he confirmed that it was very unstable even at tiny overclocks - Freezes occasionally and the dreaded "Overclock failed" on start-up every 10th time even on confirmed 'stable' settings for the exact same CPU.

And it's not about bottlenecking the 580, it's about being a bottleneck in and of itself. I play games that are extremely CPU intensive, ArmA II being one when there's lots of AI and I've heard the new SB i5/i7s does splendid under those circumstances - Mine just vomits all over the place and I get to clean up the mess.
 
Sethos said:
You guys did read my reasons, right? My current CPU is not stable, it's running way too hot now and the benchmarks compared to the new SB and first-revision i7s based on the old socket has a large percentage difference in CPU intensive tests. I have money, I want to rid my computer of these unstable parts and I want to get rid of my current case, so I might as well cut all the way into the bone and just blow a bit of money. Even my RAM aren't stable, I tried them in another computer and they have a tendency to error out.
Well, if you're dead set on it rather than just grabbing a new proc and RAM, then by all means. It's more of a horizontal move than an upgrade though.

I'd suggest keeping your current cooler, will do just fine. Case, it depends on what you want. Full tower, mid tower, quiet, airflow, badass cable management, and aesthetics all play a role and are subjective. Corsair 600T SE White seems to be hitting that sweet spot though, IMO.

The Sabertooth P67 is a rad board with a great warranty, don't listen to the plebs.

RAM doesn't matter as much since you don't mess with BUS on P67 overclocking. Just get 1.5V 8GB of your choice.
 
LordCanti said:
Take the mobo out of the case, as well as the PSU. Hook it all back up (on a plastic bag or something), and try to locate the source of the whine. Don't be afraid to get your ear pretty close (you won't need to leave the computer on long enough for anything to get hot).

90 percent sure it comes from the PSU. Then again it couldnt still be its "relationship" with the mobo?
 
Hazaro said:
Well you listed a 750W, so I listed one too.
I'd recommend the XFX Core 550W if you are running 1 card.
Antec BP550 is you want modular, but it's not as good a PSU.

Lotta room in the Shinobi.
http://www.anandtech.com/show/4460/bitfenix-shinobi-the-budget-ninja

speaking of the antec bp550 would i be ok to overclock my cpu and or gpu later on once the need arises? heres my specs
been wondering ever since i got it since i keep thinking i should have gone with the xfx core ><

Case:COOLER MASTER HAF 922
GPU: Nvidia gtx 460 1GB
CPU:Core i5 2500K LGA 1155
Mobo:Gigabyte GA-Z68X-UD3H-B3 LGA 1155 Z68 ATX Intel Motherboard
PSU: Antec BP550 Modular
HD:Samsung F3 7200 rpm 1 TB
Ram:G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3
Burner:ASUS DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS Black SATA 24X DVD Burner
 
Okay, thanks for the input guys and sorry for being bit speedy with it all - Wanted it ordered right about now, so I'll have it by Friday.

Final list looks like this;

Case: COOLER MASTER MIDITOWER CM 690 II ADVANCED

Cooler: COOLER MASTER HYPER 212 PLUS

Paste: AC MX-4

RAM: Kingston 8GB DDR3 1600MHz (2x4) HyperX

RAM: Intel Core i7 2600K Sandy Bridge

HDD: Western Digital 1000GB Black 64 MB SATA6

Mobo: Asus SABERTOOTH P67 REV3 Ultimate Stability

Can't wait to finally render videos without my CPU crapping out.
 
LordCanti said:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002NX0M8C/

Apple makes an official wireless mouse, if you're going for a theme.

(If not, I'm not up to date on Mac compatible mice)

thank you, kind sir. I was expecting something a little cheaper.

I'm aware of that mouse, I was just looking for a little more cheap.

anyone care to help, please? As long as it works on my MBP and it's not way expensive I can go with that.

Thank you.
 
So how did you guys apply thermal paste for your cooler master hyper 212+ and sandy bridge cpu's? Any tips? Mine should arrive tomorrow!
 
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