"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]
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black_vegeta
Member
scogoth said:
Awesome, will update once the firmware is released
The Lamonster
Member
didn't want to be at the bottom of the last page...The Lamonster said:PC-GAF I need help!
Here is my system info:
I think the main bottleneck here is my old ass video card. Any specific recommendations? I want to stick with NVIDIA and don't mind waiting to upgrade if something cool is yet-to-be-released. And once I upgrade my video card, will I be able to max new games like Skyrim?
The Lamonster said:
errr 100 posts/page lol
I see it's a Dell desktop... =>
-2.4 ghz cpu isn't that fast but it is a quad core which will be useful in newer games, overclocking is not an option with Dell unfortunately, and new/used Q8*00s are expensive AFAIK (if they would even be compatible with the mainboard?) so there's no easy upgrade there
-PSU Wattage might be a concern with fast cards though ... Dell has decent PSU's AFAIK but total wattage could be low as the 8800GT seems less power hungry than modern cards (1 , 2)
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a 560ti is a good Nvidia card that should run Skyrim very nicely at 1200p (as it's probably somewhat console focused anyway and thus not really pushing xtreme graphics) ... faster cards will only be bottlenecked by the CPU I suppose and might require a new PSU as well
new gen cards seem to come early next year so that's too late, but BF3's huge launch just before Skyrim might be an incentive for Nvidia/AMD to lower prices or something who knows =]
Qwerty710710
a child left behind
Ok I'm going to give this a shot. This is going to be the first attemptat building my first gaming PC. I've been anything to do one for awhile now but i have been to lazy to follow up. But after adding games like crysis and especially yesterday's battlefield 2 video I realized that the current consoles can't come clear to if So I've decided to jump in.
Currently I have only a laptop so that's nothing. My goal is to build a gaming PC that could pay PC games at max settings for at least for the next 2 years. Since I won't be buying all my part s in one shot i could spend a good amount maybe 1 to 2 months i should have everything I needed. In a graphics whore so hopefully you can help me into the game.
Currently I have only a laptop so that's nothing. My goal is to build a gaming PC that could pay PC games at max settings for at least for the next 2 years. Since I won't be buying all my part s in one shot i could spend a good amount maybe 1 to 2 months i should have everything I needed. In a graphics whore so hopefully you can help me into the game.
Shao Kahn Brewing a Stew
Banned
Great deal IMO!
KoruptData
Member
Blah, just bought a 6850 and preordered on steam.
Shao Kahn Brewing a Stew
Banned
Really? Give me the copy!! D:KoruptData said:
so my 580 crashes with green artefacts whenever i play crysis. for some reason, it only ever happens from the quarry onwards. this is what gpu-z shows when it crashed
Log of the crash is here to download
i have had no other problem with other games (source games, unreal 3, Bad company2, witcher 1, new vegas, BF3 alpha), but the only dx11 game out of them is BC2. temps are also fine.
Log of the crash is here to download
i have had no other problem with other games (source games, unreal 3, Bad company2, witcher 1, new vegas, BF3 alpha), but the only dx11 game out of them is BC2. temps are also fine.
Qwerty710710
a child left behind
You think that could handle games like battlefield at high settings with acceptable framerates?mkenyon said:
Chinner said:so my 580 crashes with green artefacts whenever i play crysis. for some reason, it only ever happens from the quarry onwards. this is what gpu-z shows when it crashed
i have had no other problem with other games (source games, unreal 3, Bad company2, witcher 1, new vegas, BF3 alpha), but the only dx11 game out of them is BC2. temps are also fine.
Try different drivers. Do you have the latest nvidia drivers? I've been reading issues about them. Go back to an earlier driver set if that's the case.
The Lamonster
Member
Thanks man! Unfortunately I don't know how to upgrade my CPU or PSU (or anything about what they are...). But I do know that video cards are easy to install so that's the only thing I'm willing to upgrade. So just to be clear - if the video card is the only thing I upgrade, are you saying I might as well get the 560ti because anything better will just get bottlenecked by my CPU?n0n44m said:
Qwerty710710 said:
The first question should be what's your budget?
You could go hog-wild and spend a fortune making sure you'll have the best experience possible but it's better to get the best stuff for your budget.
But yes, for the most part the 1k system should be sufficient for most games at high settings.
The Lamonster said:
Personally I believe even a 560 Ti will be bottlenecked, but if you decide to get a new PC sometime in the next few years you'll be able to skip the graphics card and just throw your 560 Ti in your new machine.
i'm currently on 280.19, which is the beta driver for 280.25 or whatever. i've avoided the latest one because i've heard about shit loads of problem of that driver. i'll try a driver switch, but the problem has been consistant throughout all drivers i've tried, and seems to happen from the quarry onwards (so i dunno if the game is more intensive from that point onwards).garath said:
Chinner said:
Maybe try a driver cleaner. Even though temps are fine you could try opening the side of your case and pointing a fan on the card just to eliminate that possibility.
The final possibility is the card itself is bad. I've had cards in the past that exhibit intermittent issues like that or fail completely just in certain games that I've RMA'd to great success.
Mr Nightman
Banned
just try booting with a single stick of ram, and video. could be a ram problem as well as a video problem, soo booting with the bare necessities is a startcatabarez said:
Vodka Martini
Member
Rejoining the PC crowd after a few years of console-only gaming. Was originally planning on an air-cooled system in a Corsair 600T case, but Akira_22's pictures inspired me to switch things up at the last minute.
- Fractal Design Arc Midi Case
- Corsair AX850 Power Supply
- Asus P8Z68-V Motherboard
- Intel Core i5 2500k Processor
- 16GB RAM, G.Skill Ripjaw (1600)
- Corsair H100 Liquid CPU Cooler
- EVGA Geforce GTX 590 Classified
- Crucial 128GB M4 SSD
- 4x Samsung EcoGreen F4 2TB Hard Drives
- Asus DVDRW
- 7x Gentle Typhoon AP-15 Case Fans
- Slim Keyboard & G500 Gaming Mouse
- Arctic MX-4 Thermal Compound
- Dell UltraSharp U3011 30" Monitor (2560x1600) [Not Pictured]
- CyberPower 1500VA 900W UPS (Pure Sine Wave) [Not Pictured]
- Assorted Audio/Video/Networking Cables [Not Pictured]
The build itself was very straightforward. The only faulty component was a 25ft. displayport cable that would cause flickering and loss of video signal on the monitor. This was replaced with a 25ft. dual-link dvi cable, which worked flawlessly and was 1/4 the price. Thus went my first and last use of displayport technology. The long cable length was necessary since the computer & monitor are in different rooms (no use for space heaters in south florida).
I've patiently avoided a lot of high-profile games in anticipation for a build that could do them justice. I'm extremely excited to finally play through the Crysis, Assassin's Creed, and Witcher series. At the very least they will make the wait for BF3 much more bearable.
- Fractal Design Arc Midi Case
- Corsair AX850 Power Supply
- Asus P8Z68-V Motherboard
- Intel Core i5 2500k Processor
- 16GB RAM, G.Skill Ripjaw (1600)
- Corsair H100 Liquid CPU Cooler
- EVGA Geforce GTX 590 Classified
- Crucial 128GB M4 SSD
- 4x Samsung EcoGreen F4 2TB Hard Drives
- Asus DVDRW
- 7x Gentle Typhoon AP-15 Case Fans
- Slim Keyboard & G500 Gaming Mouse
- Arctic MX-4 Thermal Compound
- Dell UltraSharp U3011 30" Monitor (2560x1600) [Not Pictured]
- CyberPower 1500VA 900W UPS (Pure Sine Wave) [Not Pictured]
- Assorted Audio/Video/Networking Cables [Not Pictured]
The build itself was very straightforward. The only faulty component was a 25ft. displayport cable that would cause flickering and loss of video signal on the monitor. This was replaced with a 25ft. dual-link dvi cable, which worked flawlessly and was 1/4 the price. Thus went my first and last use of displayport technology. The long cable length was necessary since the computer & monitor are in different rooms (no use for space heaters in south florida).
I've patiently avoided a lot of high-profile games in anticipation for a build that could do them justice. I'm extremely excited to finally play through the Crysis, Assassin's Creed, and Witcher series. At the very least they will make the wait for BF3 much more bearable.
MisterNoisy
Member
Drazgul said:
That's a 590. He's already going SLI.
VM: That's a hell of a build. Very nice!
He's already running SLI with $800 card only. Spending $50-100 more more powerful PSU is worth it longterm on such a huge budget. I recommend running PSU 60% max load. Unlike most, I don't recommend running 80% that's when PSU start getting stress. Plus, you should be using the PSU for few builds and they will degrade overtime. 100% capability could be 90% next year.Sethos said:
The Lamonster
Member
The Lamonster said:
I don't plan on buying a new PC for a long time. Do you guys think a 560 Ti on my system would even improve things significantly over my existing 8800 GT?garath said:
Does the motherboard have an active light, and if so, is it turning on? Do you have any error code reporting on the board itself? LCD boot module?catabarez said:
Does the CPU cooler spin up? If the case fans are connected to the board, do they spin up? What if they're connected directly to the PSU?
Even with a mild overclock, that CPU will still bottleneck that GPU in certain titles. Can you OC at all on that motherboard? If not, try a pin mod, if you haven't already done so.The Lamonster said:
http://forums.nvidia.com/index.php?showtopic=58361
Yes, but see above.The Lamonster said:
Nice build, but why have that GT facing inwards? Direct fresh air to your AIO is good, though with the way the 590 exhausts its air, you're invariably forcing some of it through your AIO.Vodka Martini said:
knitoe said:
A lot 1000w+ still have some unstable rails and capacitor issues from what I've heard, the 1000w I have from Antec has a very audible high-pitch whine. Still find 1000w+ PSUs have too many little niggles for me to ever recommend one. It's now sitting in the basement.
I always ran my sub-1000 PSUs hard and all of them still work fine today, as long as you don't skimp out on the brand.
The Lamonster
Member
I've never tried to overclock (because I don't know the first thing about it), but I might give this a shot. I am not the type of guy to ever open his PC case, it's so foreign to me at this point.·feist· said:
PSU and RAM came in from Newegg today ($3 or so for "one" day shipping!), computer case is coming in tomorrow, GPU and HDD are coming in either tomorrow or Friday. All of these boxes are starting to pile up, and the remainder is coming next week. This wait sucks.
Probably should try out the PSU and RAM and make sure they work...
Probably should try out the PSU and RAM and make sure they work...
Mrcapcom
Member
·feist· said:Option 1, if you don't think you'll want, or need, a back up PC at all. Option 2, if you think you might (media center, file server, contingency plan, etc.).
I'd say Option 1. Even at stock, an E8400 would be more than capable for what sounds like a basic email, surfing, office apps system for her. You could possibly overclock it to 3.6-4.0GHz for her -- as even basic browsers, sites, etc are becoming more resource hungry -- and she should be set for years. If you're feeling generous, you could also throw in a 40-64GB SSD.
"$10 off with promo code HARDOCPX81XB, ends 8/16"
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819103808
That would bring the Phenom II X4 955 down to $110, or $25 cheaper than the 965. Performance wise, there's little between them, as they're effectively the same CPU with different factory clocks. The two overclock about the same.
With $25 saved, you can get a better board. At least look at something like the Gigabyte GA-970A-UD3 for $15 more than that D3.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128519
Another option would be to try Micro Center, if you live near one.
Just missing L3 cache. Alternatively, you can try a predetermined motherboard bundle:
http://www.microcenter.com/specials/promotions/AMDbundlePROMO.html
Or, select one yourself with $50 off:
http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/98ab8cea#/98ab8cea/29
O Crap just saw this thanks for the info. I do have a microcenter near me I just got a flyer in the mail. I think ill check them against NewEgg and such thanks for the info again
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
Those are some really impressive temps on that H100. Tempting me to go with that over a Silver Arrow. Haven't been too crazy about my H50, was a downgrade from my Tuniq Tower 120 Extreme, so I'm not really sure.
Speaking of which, what is the recommended way to get rid of heatsinks? Can you recycle them somewhere? My Tuniq Tower is bent up in one corner (thanks to my brother >_>) so selling it is probably out of the question, and I have a few stock heatsinks I could get rid of as well. I might be able to bend it back though, so maybe I could sell it off for cheap.
Speaking of which, what is the recommended way to get rid of heatsinks? Can you recycle them somewhere? My Tuniq Tower is bent up in one corner (thanks to my brother >_>) so selling it is probably out of the question, and I have a few stock heatsinks I could get rid of as well. I might be able to bend it back though, so maybe I could sell it off for cheap.
opticalmace
Member
Probably a stupid question, but is there any problem installing two OSes on two different hard drives? Will the bootloader work fine?
I want to install Ubuntu on my SSD and leave Windows on my WD black.
I want to install Ubuntu on my SSD and leave Windows on my WD black.
SnakeSlashRO
Banned
OH MAN NEOGAF........ WOW.
I don't know if any of you guys remeber my post... but I had an issue where my computer would not boot at all......... I swapped MOBOs and PSU's and ... I was losing my hair...
Turns out my Ram was not compable with the MOBO... So its up and running LOL
I don't know if any of you guys remeber my post... but I had an issue where my computer would not boot at all......... I swapped MOBOs and PSU's and ... I was losing my hair...
Turns out my Ram was not compable with the MOBO... So its up and running LOL
Always good to check the QVL when doing a process of elimination.
If you have any scrapyards within a reasonable distance from you, they'll normally take them. Since they're aluminum, you may even get a small amount of money out of it. Otherwise, stores like Radioshack often take them off your hands (normally whole systems), and will help you recycle them.
Search around for more "pin mod" links. Some of the guides are well documented, so that should help. Also, look at videos on how to install, and uninstall, Intel CPUs and heatsinks. Give it a shot. The experience will prove handy, when it's time to do a full upgrade.The Lamonster said:
You missed the Newegg deal, but MC has the 965 for the same $120 that NE sells the 955, and MC has the 955 at $110. Good luck.Mrcapcom said:
Remember, he's doing that with an additional ~$100 worth of fans (not including unused extras). In performance mode, a stock H100 isn't nearly as quiet as a Silver Arrow. That replacement/better fan outlay is in addition to the $40-50 more that the H100 costs over a SA and NH-D14, though that may be inconsequential to you.chaosblade said:
If you have any scrapyards within a reasonable distance from you, they'll normally take them. Since they're aluminum, you may even get a small amount of money out of it. Otherwise, stores like Radioshack often take them off your hands (normally whole systems), and will help you recycle them.
opticalmace
Member
I have an i5-2500K with a hyper 212+. Idle temps (non-OC) are around 34 or 35C. The shop put the heatsink on for me, so I don't know what compound they used.
Should I reseat it with some arctic silver I have? Ty.
Should I reseat it with some arctic silver I have? Ty.
MisterNoisy
Member
opticalmace said:
Those temps don't seem unusual to me.
SnakeSlashRO
Banned
Nabs said:
Thanks so much! My MOBO is... MSI P67A-G43 (B3)
It says it supports DDR3 1066/1333/1600*/1866*/2133*(OC) ...
I bought...
PDP PATRIOT Signature Line 8 GB : 2 x 4 GB Memory - DIMM 240-pin - 1600 MHz ( PC3-12800 )
What did I do wrong anyway???
They said they put some other ram in it... I don't know the brand, but it =s 8GBs..
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