"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]

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n0n44m said:
1) anything with a custom heatsink usually. The Asus 3slot ones are pretty good I guess, MSI also has some decent models. but the stock cooler isn't that bad apparently (compared to older cards at least) and remember that decent airflow in the case is always needed with a card like the 580

Do the 3slots need actual 3 PCI 2.0 slots? Or just the width of 3 slots? I think my motherboard only has 2 PCI 2.0 slots and then some normal PCI slots. I think there's room if the 3rd doesn't need to be 2.0 as well. Maybe before I buy anything I'll snap a pic of the inside of my 3 year old build so some of you who are more informed can help me out.
 
Hazaro said:
Ah. I'd still do everything manually in the BIOS.

There are many overclocking guide for the 750's. Just google 750 + mobo name.

If those settings at 1.25V and 3.5Ghz are good, that's not a bad place to start.
RAM should be 1.65V most likely

yeah, everything i'm reading says going through the BIOS is the way to go, and apparently 3.6 is pretty much a standard for most of these chips, which is great since i dont think i need more than that for most any dolphin game, i wanna say.

what i dont get is a few guides mention OCing the RAM too...do i need to do this? some guys got @ 3.5 without the temps even budging, id rather not fuck with this if i can get my goal & be stable.

LordCanti said:
That software is garbage. I once had to boot into safe mode to uninstall it, because it would boot with Windows, set my processor to an OC it wasn't stable in, and crash my computer.

I definitely suggest not using it, unless it has gotten much better.

yeah, from googling it seems you're far from the only person to have this happen - even those who it went okay for said it was more voltage than needed, so i'm sticking to the BIOS when i know more about what im doing. thanks man.
 
Well, as per usual, I had a bit of a mare of a build. Actually, that's not really true, it's just the PC is unusable atm. Everything went well, except that it turns out the new motherboard doesn't - understandable - support IDE devices. Which is what my DVD drive is. So everything is all installed OK, it's purring like a kitten (in the BIOS) and sounds incredibly quiet, but I have no way of booting into the Windows 7 install. I'm gonna go out at lunch today and grab a cheap SATA DVD Writer, then we're all game. FYI I had about 4 hours to try and jury-rig a solution out of the bits and bobs in my flat. The things I tried were:

- Using my IDE-to-SATA connector to get the DVD drive worker in the new PC, but it didn't take to the Mobo at all, it just didn't recognise it. At some later point that evening, the DVD drive just stopped powering up altogether! I think it's dead...
- Using a USB drive to boot into Windows. MS actually released a really nice app to convert your windows 7 ISO into a bootable USB drive (apparantly the install is super quick! Especially, I'd think, on an SSD) but alas, I had no 4GB USB sticks, only 2GB.
- As above, but using an old USB hard drive. Annoyingly, my working PC would recognise this as a local drive, not a USB one, so the util mentioned above wouldn't be able to create a boot disk out of it. Plus, the drive is dodgy at the best of times!
- Using a spare 4gb Micro-SD card I had lying around. I have no USB adapter for it, except my Phone... So I put it in my Android, and it successfully made the boot disk on the SD card, and my BIOS even recognised the phone (!) but when I tried to boot from it, no dice.
- Using an old Hard Disk I had lying around to make into a giant USB boot disk, but again, it showed up as a local disk even when using my SATA-to-USB converter.

So all those failed, but that's the bit I love. Trying to engineer solutions from the bits and bobs lying around my flat. OH WELL! Tonight it should be up and running nice and quick, since the build's now complete with the exception of the DVD drive. So tonight I'll be testing out BF:BC2 to see the difference!
 
My most recent installation of Win7 x64 was done using a USB drive. I have an SSD as the OS drive and in less than 10 minutes the screen was sitting at the default desktop.

I recently purchased an 8GB USB stick to replace a (presumed) lost 4GB one, which I found just today, so I'll be using that as a de facto Win7 installation disc.
 
Do we know an exact date for the Corsair Carbine cases? Everywhere I look just says September. Hopefully it's early Sept as I wanted to get cracking on this build before the game rush in Oct/Nov, and those are looking like some solid, roomy, cheaper mid towers with $150+ features and lots of flexibility.
 
Expecting my MSI 580 tomorrow. Since I already have a Nvidia card is there anything special that I need to do when replacing my current card with the new one? I'm on driver set 275.33 so I assume I shouldn't have to uninstall the drivers or is it better to do so when getting a new card?

Also I'm pretty sure my Asus 580 is ok. I played the Witcher 2 last night for the first time in a while and everything was fine. Ran Heaven benchmark highest everything and tesselation at Extreme and still averaged 30fps. So I dunno, maybe my PC just doesn't like GTA or console ports.

So I'll have 2 monster 580s: one a triple slot card and the other one of the best dual slot 580s. Will probably keep the MSI card since by all accounts it is the better performer (and by the far better OC'er), dual slot, has 3GB, and is just as cool as the Asus. Could try and SLI them just for the hell of it but that seems like it'd be a bit awkard and I dunno if it would even work...
 
szRPm.png


Thoughts? Help :)
 
Kaltagesta said:
- Using a spare 4gb Micro-SD card I had lying around. I have no USB adapter for it, except my Phone... So I put it in my Android, and it successfully made the boot disk on the SD card, and my BIOS even recognised the phone (!) but when I tried to boot from it, no dice.
- Using an old Hard Disk I had lying around to make into a giant USB boot disk, but again, it showed up as a local disk even when using my SATA-to-USB converter.

So all those failed, but that's the bit I love. Trying to engineer solutions from the bits and bobs lying around my flat. OH WELL! Tonight it should be up and running nice and quick, since the build's now complete with the exception of the DVD drive. So tonight I'll be testing out BF:BC2 to see the difference!
Did you set it to boot from external or whatever you hooked the android to?
Just wondering.
Tea and Toast said:
szRPm.png


Thoughts? Help :)
You want 2x2GB kit for RAM. 1.5V DDR3 if possible.
OCZ doesn't make RAM anymore so support is probably sketchy. Corsair RMA is easier where you are vs G.Skill I think.

2500K for overclocking

Samsung F3 1TB or WD Black for HDD
 
squicken said:
Don't buy two individual sticks of RAM. You want to buy a matched set. Your quantity should show up as "1" if you are doing it right
He's buying 2 pairs or 2x1GB
You want 2 sticks instead of 4, so get a 2x2GB kit. It's easier on the motherboard and lets you upgrade to 8GB later if you buy the same sticks.

*You still want a 'kit' or paired 2GB sticks
 
Tea and Toast said:
Ah right!. What's the reason for that?

Even though the sticks can be the exact same model, they may not play nice together. When buying a matched set, you are making sure you are buying RAM that is guaranteed to work together.
 
Hazaro said:
He's buying 2 pairs or 2x1GB
You want 2 sticks instead of 4, so get a 2x2GB kit. It's easier on the motherboard and lets you upgrade to 8GB later if you buy the same sticks.

He's buying two single 2GB modules. Note the "1x2GB".

squicken said:
Even though the sticks can be the exact same model, they may not play nice together. When buying a matched set, you are making sure you are buying RAM that is guaranteed to work together.

The risk of this happening is extremely low to the point of being of no concern. An official kit should save him a few pounds, however.
 
Very solid setup. Excellent everything for the price.
Above or below what you have you take away or lose some important things or get bad value returns.
 
Tea and Toast said:
So is that a decent setup? Anything I should change for the same money or a few pennies more? How essential is an after market cpu cooler?

The Intel stock cooler gets pretty loud, and will hold you back on your overclock. You can get a Cooler Master Hyper 212 or a Corsair A50 for so damn cheap, I'd say it's definitely worth it. Just make sure your case has enough clearance.

Looks good. Just make sure you get the 2 x 2GB kit of RAM.

edit: and make sure the memory is rated at 1.5V
 
Help, i'm a noob:

I build my first rig a couple of months ago with an ASUS GTX 570 Direct CU II. I believe the card is OC from factory, and I have recently discovered after playing Deus ex HR and Crysis 2, that the card crashes on dx11; a problem that is possibly caused because i need to increase the voltage ( solution i got from the internet).

The Stock settings are the same I had when I installed it ( I have never touched them):
742MHz core, 1482MHz shader, 1.013V, 1900mhz memory
(I am sure the problem is not heating)

My question: Is it safe to change the voltage to 1.025V? Should I adjust the other settings?
 
Hawk269 said:
Enjoy man. I have been running 2 SLI'd 580's, each overclocked to 900Mhz and WoW are they f'n fast. So far there has been nothing that causes them to drop below 60fps at 1080p...well one game....Witcher 2 in Ubersampling mode. The best my two little beasts can do in Uber mode in that game is around 52fps, but they are being taxed at around 98% each when doing so.

Deux Ex for example only uses about 40% usage on the GPU's and I am rock solid 60fps with DX11. Same for Crysis 2 in DX11, although usage is around 70% or so. Only game that makes my cards bake is Witcher 2..but that is also in Uber mode.

From what I have read only 2 590's in SLI or 3x580's can run Witcher 2 in Uber at a rock solid 60fps without melting the cards.

But yeah, 2 580's, even vanilla and not overclocked are just beastly...

They run just fine at 900 but seem to get into thermal runaway. At 880 They don't go above 80 degrees and the fans stay nice and quiet (they're much quieter at 80% than a 470 at even 65%) this is with a custom fan profile. I have to boost voltage to about 1.070 or so to hit 900 with no errors but the top card starts hitting 92 degrees and I'm not really comfortable with that. The fan kicks up to 100% at 85 degrees on my custom profile but can't seem to cool the card properly. 880 seems to be the best I can do with this cooling setup.

They're in a Coolermaster 690 2 with 3 additional 140 mm fans. One in the side panel, one in the bottom of the case and another right behind the video cards. I think 880 is all i can hit for gaming. I did do some benches with the cards cranked to hell and back and the fans permanently at 100% at 930 something heh. Took the side panel off, had a box fan pointed at the case. The video cards could do a bit more it seemed, and my cpu was at 5 ghz...

But for everyday it just 4.6 ghz 2500k with the 580s at 880 mhz. Quiet as a mouse, certainly quieter than my media server with the 12 hard drives crunching away.
 
Vulcano's assistant said:
Help, i'm a noob:

I build my first rig a couple of months ago with an ASUS GTX 570 Direct CU II. I believe the card is OC from factory, and I have recently discovered after playing Deus ex HR and Crysis 2, that the card crashes on dx11; a problem that is possibly caused because i need to increase the voltage ( solution i got from the internet).

The Stock settings are the same I had when I installed it ( I have never touched them):
742MHz core, 1482MHz shader, 1.013V, 1900mhz memory
(I am sure the problem is not heating)

My question: Is it safe to change the voltage to 1.025V? Should I adjust the other settings?

sure, when overclocking it's safe up to at least 1.1v, and if it is a indeed voltage problem something like 1.050v should be more than enough to solve it

742 is only 10 mhz faster than a "normal" 570 though so it would surprise me, poor quality check by Asus if it would be true

also, download the Unigine Heaven 2.5 Benchmark and run it with high tessellation/max settings. You'll won't find any DX11 titles that are heavier on the gpu than that benchmark/demo =]
 
Honestly, with the price of RAM right now, I would recommend 8GB to everyone. You're future proofing your build in terms of memory for an added $15. This is especially a good thing as H67 boards only have 2 slots anyways.
 
Yeah with the 570 and 6970 price down I can fit it in no issue most likely. The 4GB was a keepstay from gaming value and I've been just keeping it in there.
 
n0n44m said:
sure, when overclocking it's safe up to at least 1.1v, and if it is a indeed voltage problem something like 1.050v should be more than enough to solve it

742 is only 10 mhz faster than a "normal" 570 though so it would surprise me, poor quality check by Asus if it would be true

also, download the Unigine Heaven 2.5 Benchmark and run it with high tessellation/max settings. You'll won't find any DX11 titles that are heavier on the gpu than that benchmark/demo =]

thank you, trying it now.
 
Basic Desktop Questions:

Your Current Specs: My last gaming rig essentially died two years ago and this is a brand new replacement.

Budget: $1500 US approximately, with some flexibility. Also I'm hoping to find a case with clean lines (I don't like glowing lights or windows!). I would also like to buy a pretty massive hard drive, thinking 3TB or more (or at least a 2TB with the option to add a 2nd HDD).

Main Use: heavy gaming, photo / video editing, storage of tons of photos, general web browsing, and Word / XL etc.

Monitor Resolution: I need to buy a new monitor. Looking for something at least 24"; am also considering buying a larger monitor that can also be used as a TV / Xbox screen in addition to the PC.

List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Battlefield 3, SWTOR, Diablo III, you get the idea!!

Are reusing any parts?: Nope, I'm building from scratch!

When will you build?: Hoping to have the build ready at the end of October.

Will you be overclocking?: Probably not.

This has been a super helpful thread and I look forward to hearing some specific responses!
 
Tomnevers said:
Basic Desktop Questions:

Your Current Specs: My last gaming rig essentially died two years ago and this is a brand new replacement.

Budget: $1500 US approximately, with some flexibility. Also I'm hoping to find a case with clean lines (I don't like glowing lights or windows!). I would also like to buy a pretty massive hard drive, thinking 3TB or more (or at least a 2TB with the option to add a 2nd HDD).

Main Use: heavy gaming, photo / video editing, storage of tons of photos, general web browsing, and Word / XL etc.

Monitor Resolution: I need to buy a new monitor. Looking for something at least 24"; am also considering buying a larger monitor that can also be used as a TV / Xbox screen in addition to the PC.

List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Battlefield 3, SWTOR, Diablo III, you get the idea!!

Are reusing any parts?: Nope, I'm building from scratch!

When will you build?: Hoping to have the build ready at the end of October.

Will you be overclocking?: Probably not.

This has been a super helpful thread and I look forward to hearing some specific responses!

Bulldozer should be out by the time you build, so this is kind of a brainstorming build rather than actually picking parts out. That and prices at the time + combos will make a difference for specific parts.

Check out the $1000 build in the OP and start from there.

Upgrade RAM to 8GB (should be about the same price due to price changes).

Get a similar Z68 instead of the P67, that will benefit you with video encoding.

If you do a LOT of editing, a 2600 will be better than the 2500 due to hyperthreading, but it's a $100 upgrade for that alone and it won't benefit you for normal usage and gaming.

If you're not going SLI/CF you could drop to a 650W PSU instead.

Then with what's left pick a case, the ones in the OP are good choices. Can't really go wrong with anything in the $70+ categories, just pick the one that has the best combination of features and looks to you.

You will probably have enough left over for a SSD, but I don't know enough about those to recommend anything specifically. Or alternatively you could upgrade the GPU, not sure when the 7000 series is launching but for now the only upgrade would be the 580, outside of SLI/CF.

You won't need a k CPU if you're not overclocking, but since you will want a board capable of OCing anyway, it might be nice to get one just to have that option. And with your budget, you might as well get an aftermarket cooler even if you stay at stock speeds, it will be quieter if nothing else.
 
Smokey said:
Could try and SLI them just for the hell of it but that seems like it'd be a bit awkard and I dunno if it would even work...
It'll just scale both cards down to the lowest clocked card, and the lowest memory. Check out the intro to SLI in the OP, there's more info there. But yeah, it'll work.
 
No sure if this has been mentioned, but newegg has the 1tb spinpoint f3 on sale for $50. Should I buy it now or will it be out of warranty when I build my rig in a few weeks?
 
iSurvivedTheOutage said:
Has anyone here tried a refund through amazon? If so, how long does it take for them to process it?

It wasn't on a PC part, but I've sent a few things back to Amazon for refund. Takes a couple days for them to get it, but once they do the money is refunded within a day or so.
 
Tea and Toast said:
Thanks! i'll make the changes (It was 2 sticks of 2GB :) )

Better?

ZrvE2.png
what kind of case you got? and where abouts are you mounting the PSU? if its a decent sized (like the R3) and bottom mounted, keep in mind that the 8pin CPU wire may be not be long enough to be routed through the back. thats the problem I have and one i'm rectifying by getting a wire extension.
 
Chinner said:
what kind of case you got? and where abouts are you mounting the PSU? if its a decent sized (like the R3) and bottom mounted, keep in mind that the 8pin CPU wire may be not be long enough to be routed through the back. thats the problem I have and one i'm rectifying by getting a wire extension.

That's a good point. I've needed that extension cable on my last two cases. Basically any case where you try and route the cable through the back, you risk running out of line.
 
squicken said:
That's a good point. I've needed that extension cable on my last two cases. Basically any case where you try and route the cable through the back, you risk running out of line.
i should have said this, but the reason i'm actually telling him is because i have the exact same PSU and i thought i'd share my experience.
 
ACE 1991 said:
No sure if this has been mentioned, but newegg has the 1tb spinpoint f3 on sale for $50. Should I buy it now or will it be out of warranty when I build my rig in a few weeks?
Samsung has a 3 year warranty, I've had to send a hard drive to them and the whole process went smoothly. If you plan on getting one might as well do it while it's a bit cheaper.
 
Hazaro said:
Did you set it to boot from external or whatever you hooked the android to?
Just wondering.
I was pretty amazed. Well, I'm pretty amazed by the P8P67 Pro bios generally - it has MOUSE support?! - and when you go into it, there's a list of all the attached devices that could potentially hold a boot disk; Hard drives, USB disks, DVD Drives (I assume!). MY phone showed up there as "Desire100" (It's an HTC Desire) so I clicked on that to immediately boot from that device but, as I say, no dice.

In the end, I didn't want to get raped in my local PC shop for a DVD drive (£40!) so I just bought a 4 gig USB drive and I'm making it bootable right now. I'll order a DVD drive online and just slam it in whenever it comes.
 
ACE 1991 said:
No sure if this has been mentioned, but newegg has the 1tb spinpoint f3 on sale for $50. Should I buy it now or will it be out of warranty when I build my rig in a few weeks?

Thanks, I needed an HDD for my old PC (going to be my new HTPC). Can't pass it up!
 
Closing in on go time. Comments and input welcome.

Motherboard: ASUS P8P67 PRO B3
CPU: Intel® Core™ i5-2500K
RAM: Corsair XMS3 DDR3 1600MHz 8GB CL9 Kit w/2x 4GB
GPU: ASUS GeForce GTX 580 1536MB "DirectCU II"
HDD: Samsung SpinPoint F3 1TB
SSD: Corsair SSD Force Series™ 3, 90GB
Case fan: Noctua NF-S12B FLX 120mm
Monitor: BenQ G2420HD or DELL U2311H ULTRASHARP

Reusing:
Case: Antec P182 + two 120mm fans
PSU: Corsair HX620W
Soundcard: X-Fi XtremeGamer Fatality or some such.
Optical drive: It accepts DVD's.

Budget:
Assuming the 1USD = 10SEK rule still rings true; around $1,200, or 12,000:-
Will be purchasing from komplett.se and/or dustinhome.se depending on which monitor I go for.
When will you build?:
Sometime between now and early October. Komplett.se seemingly temporarily just dropped the price on the GPU by 8%. So one is somewhat inclined...
Will you be overclocking?:
I'll be flipping the magic CPU overclocking switch on the mobo and probably do whatever's possible without having to fiddle with the GPU voltage.
 
So far so good with the hard drive transfer. I created a system image on my back-up drive, booted from the W7 DVD, and did a system restore to the new drive. All the partitions were created and named correctly, and Windows looks as it did on the old drive. The new drive (or maybe it's refurbished) runs cooler to boot. No more weird thudding sounds from the HDD either...
 
fuzzyreactor said:
is 86 Celsius too high a temp under load? i have a 5770
Nope

VibratingDonkey said:
Closing in on go time. Comments and input welcome.

Motherboard: ASUS P8P67 PRO B3
CPU: Intel® Core™ i5-2500K
RAM: Corsair XMS3 DDR3 1600MHz 8GB CL9 Kit w/2x 4GB
GPU: ASUS GeForce GTX 580 1536MB "DirectCU II"
HDD: Samsung SpinPoint F3 1TB
SSD: Corsair SSD Force Series™ 3, 90GB
Case fan: Noctua NF-S12B FLX 120mm
Monitor: BenQ G2420HD or DELL U2311H ULTRASHARP

Reusing:
Case: Antec P182 + two 120mm fans
PSU: Corsair HX620W
Soundcard: X-Fi XtremeGamer Fatality or some such.
Optical drive: It accepts DVD's.

Budget:
Assuming the 1USD = 10SEK rule still rings true; around $1,200, or 12,000:-
Will be purchasing from komplett.se and/or dustinhome.se depending on which monitor I go for.
When will you build?:
Sometime between now and early October. Komplett.se seemingly temporarily just dropped the price on the GPU by 8%. So one is somewhat inclined...
Will you be overclocking?:
I'll be flipping the magic CPU overclocking switch on the mobo and probably do whatever's possible without having to fiddle with the GPU voltage.
That XMS3 is 1.65V RAM I believe. You want 1.5V RAM. Case is outdated and outclassed by a ton. If you want silent and understated, go with the Fractal. For a soundcard, grab a Xonar DG/DX/Whatever else you want, only if you're putting out to headphones. If you put out to a speaker system, reciever, or a headphone amp, it's a waste.
 
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