"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]

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Just pulled the trigger on the 2500K for $190 on NCIX. Kinda mixed emotions as my current PC with a 2.4ghz C2D and GTX460 played Deus Ex HR just fine. I'll have to be on the lookout for any great motherboard, ram, and hard drive deals to complete it.
 
ratcliffja said:
I accidentally ordered the wrong motherboard, but once I did, I figured it would be harder to return than the processor since I broke the static seal. Anyway, I actually really like that motherboard, as the 9xx processors seem pretty nice. Why is x58 worse than Sandy Bridge?

Edit: I actually saved a little money this way AND I plan on using it for more than just gaming. It's actually going to be used for some game development as well, though it's certainly not my primary work computer.

Because you are buying something that is outdated.
 
Angelus Errare said:
Ugh so conflicted now, not sure if I should go with a 560 Ti or a 6950. Decisions Decisions

they're more or less the same. I think tom's hardware said the 6950 was overall better though. I went through the same decision and ended up going with the 560Ti because it came with free batman arkham city and apparently nvidia drivers are better/more quickly updated.

Either way you can't go wrong.
 
I finally made my decision on the mechanical keyboard I'll be going with:

WASD Keyboards


It's an upstart company led by a single guy and he seems to be doing a great job responding to community feedback.

The price is great as well. $119 for your choice of Blue, Brown, or Black, as well as general customization options: classic/modern/blank, laser vs. engraved, base keycap color, escape key color, wasd key color. $139 will get you full customization for every individual key. For $20 he'll also install O-rings on each key, to reduce the noise of bottoming out the keys.

Based on feedback in this thread, he's also going to be ordering new improved O-rings that should make it in by mid November.

Examples:

cust_creations99e.jpg


cust_creations05.jpg


cust_creations94e.jpg
 
TheExodu5 said:
I finally made my decision on the mechanical keyboard I'll be going with:

WASD Keyboards


It's an upstart company led by a single guy and he seems to be doing a great job responding to community feedback.

The price is great as well. $119 for your choice of Blue, Brown, or Black, as well as general customization options: classic/modern/blank, laser vs. engraved, base keycap color, escape key color, wasd key color. $139 will get you full customization for every individual key. For $20 he'll also install O-rings on each key, to reduce the noise of bottoming out the keys.

Based on feedback in this thread, he's also going to be ordering new improved O-rings that should make it in by mid November.

Examples:

http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/media/gallery/cache/800x533/523ee8f65d57d1a33c013333a18aed83/cust_creations99e.jpg[/img

[img]http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/media/gallery/cache/800x533/523ee8f65d57d1a33c013333a18aed83/cust_creations05.jpg[/img

[img]http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/media/gallery/cache/800x533/523ee8f65d57d1a33c013333a18aed83/cust_creations94e.jpg[/img[/QUOTE]

[img]http://myedgepc.com/images/USBKEY.jpg
 
Need a little confirmation on here since I'm the farthest thing from knowledgeable on computers and parts.

I think I need to buy a new USB wireless adapter for my desktop. It's been randomly cutting out for the last couple of weeks but my dad who uses a laptop (right near the damn modem for some reason, defeats the purpose of wireless but whatever) says his is fine. Also when I close my door at night to drown out noise it has a harder time connecting to sites, but it also does this randomly throughout the day too.

I'm almost positive it's my adapter but I need to know if it could be something else, like a virus on the actual computer or something else. I've run Norton and malwarebytes at least once a day and nothing's popped up but I know they're not perfect. No other strange symptoms have appeared on my computer from what I can tell.
 
ombz said:
Is it alright if i have the cooler master fan on the side pictured in the photo below?


I thought it might be better on the other side but there isn't space between the cpu and ram.
Temps will be about 5C higher I think. I'd mount it on the otherside either above the ramsink or by moving RAM to slots 2 and 4.
ratcliffja said:
Since I received no replies to my previous post, I'll repost my new rig with links... I got all of these from Amazon and think I did a pretty decent job this time. Hopefully everything is compatible now.

Intel Core i7-950 Processor 3.06GHz 8 MB Cache Socket LGA1366

Corsair 6 GB PC3-12800 1600MHz 240-Pin DDR3 Core i7 Triple Channel Memory Kit CMX6GX3M3A1600C9
GAMMA Classic Series ATX Mid Tower Interior Steel Chassis (Black)
Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus 120mm Sleeve CPU Cooler, RR-B10-212P-G1
Crucial 64 GB m4 2.5-Inch Solid State Drive SATA 6Gb/s CT064M4SSD2
Creative Labs SB0570L4 Sound Blaster Audigy SE Sound Card
Antec BP550 Plus 550W ATX12V V2.2 Modular Power Supply
EVGA 131-GT-E767-TR LGA1366/ Intel X58/ DDR3/ CrossFireX & 2-Way/3-Way SLI/ SATA3&USB3.0/ A&GbE/ ATX Motherboard
EVGA GeForce GTX 560 Superclocked 1024 MB GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 2DVI/Mini-HDMI SLI Ready Graphics Card, 01G-P3-1463-KR

Does this seem like a decent rig and are there any obvious conflicts here that anyone can see? I appreciate everyone's help so far. Note that all of these items have either shipped or are in the process of shipping and therefore cannot be cancelled, so unless there's a hardware conflict, I won't be returning any of it.
I'd get a 560Ti at least. I believe the Xonar DG is a better audio card unless you want Creative.
ToyMachine228 said:
Any help would be appreciated. I honestly have no idea what I'm looking for. Don't know jack shit about PC's. Here's my situation, I'm buying a house, and need a desktop. I have nothing to carry over from a previous PC. Zero. No mouse, no keyboard, nothing.

Basic Desktop Questions:
Your Current Specs: AMD Athlon 64 4000+, 2.41ghz, 3.0 GB RAM
Budget: $500-700 (As low as humanly possible)
Main Use: General usage with light gaming on the side
Monitor Resolution: Don't know. Usually play at 1024x768
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Diablo III. Blizzard and Valve games. That's it.
Are reusing any parts?: None
When will you build?: Sooner rather than later. A week or two if possible.
Will you be overclocking?: Don't even know what this means, so no.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
See: $500 build with the 1TB drive. You will be very pleased.
()_listerfeend_() said:
OK guys I put together a list on Amazon, wondering what you think:

Case - Cooler Master HAF ATX Mid Tower Case

Video Card - HIS Radeon HD 6950 IceQ X Turbo 2GB (256bit)

Motherboard - ASRock P67 Extreme4 B3 Intel P67

Intel Core i5-2500K

Power Supply - Corsair Enthusiast Series 650-Watt

Memory - Corsair Vengeance Blu 8 GB (2X4 GB) PC3-12800 1600mHz

SSD - Crucial 64 GB m4 2.5-Inch Solid State Drive

With Windows 7 and Optical drive it totals about $1150.

My main concern is the motherboard (there's way too many mobo's out there) and the 6950. Is HIS an OK brand? Will that fit in the case I've selected?

Any help would be appreciated.
Gravy.

elrechazao said:
Getting closer on my build. Could I get some opinions on whether my current PSU could be used in a new i2500k/asusmobo/560ti build?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817341022&Tpk=ocz550fty
You'll be fine even with OCs
Derrick01 said:
Need a little confirmation on here since I'm the farthest thing from knowledgeable on computers and parts.

I think I need to buy a new USB wireless adapter for my desktop. It's been randomly cutting out for the last couple of weeks but my dad who uses a laptop (right near the damn modem for some reason, defeats the purpose of wireless but whatever) says his is fine. Also when I close my door at night to drown out noise it has a harder time connecting to sites, but it also does this randomly throughout the day too.

I'm almost positive it's my adapter but I need to know if it could be something else, like a virus on the actual computer or something else. I've run Norton and malwarebytes at least once a day and nothing's popped up but I know they're not perfect. No other strange symptoms have appeared on my computer from what I can tell.
I might be outdated on this because I know decent USB wireless exists, but I would tend to lean more to a PCI or PCI-E wireless card with an antenna.

? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833166020

Also get rid of Norton and put on MSE. Give CCleaner a run too (Make sure you look over the check boxes for internet stuff like saved passwords and cookies)
 
Hazaro said:
Also get rid of Norton and put on MSE. Give CCleaner a run too (Make sure you look over the check boxes for internet stuff like saved passwords and cookies)

Yeah I have CCleaner and use it about once a day too. Norton's been good to me but regardless I still have about 60 days on my subscription. I don't think it's a virus thing anyway, I am known to obsess over that stuff.

This is the current USB adapter I'm using

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833704045

It's worked fine for the 11ish months I've had it but I guess I either damaged it from overuse or it just plain malfunctioned. I'm just looking for confirmation from smart people lol.
 
ratcliffja said:
I accidentally ordered the wrong motherboard, but once I did, I figured it would be harder to return than the processor since I broke the static seal. Anyway, I actually really like that motherboard, as the 9xx processors seem pretty nice. Why is x58 worse than Sandy Bridge?

Edit: I actually saved a little money this way AND I plan on using it for more than just gaming. It's actually going to be used for some game development as well, though it's certainly not my primary work computer.

SB is just better both power (95W vs. 130W) and performance wise.

Already opened that X58 mobo though? Ouch.
 
Aww yeah I placed an order for my first mechanical keyboard: A DAS professional silent. Can't fucking wait!

Only $108 after student rebate too (20% off, free shipping)
 
ok, here's my proposed build:



LIAN LI Lancool PC-K58 Black CECC Steel / Plastic ATX Mid Tower Computer Case

ASUS P8Z68-V LX LGA 1155 Intel Z68 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard with UEFI BIOS

EVGA 01G-P3-1561-AR GeForce GTX 560 Ti FPB (Fermi) 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support FPB Video Card

Antec NEO ECO 620C 620W Continuous Power ATX12V v2.3 / EPS12V 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Power Supply

Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz (3.7GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor BX80623I52500K

Crucial M4 CT064M4SSD2CCA 2.5" 64GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) with Transfer Kit

G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL9D-8GBXL

Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 64-bit
 
elrechazao said:
Antec NEO ECO 620C 620W Continuous Power ATX12V v2.3 / EPS12V 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Power Supply

From what I've gathered, I'd suspect that this would limit you in the future if you ever got the bug to SLI that 560ti, as it's a good card for the money, but if you get into it more so, and you want to get better, SLI is your option, and 700w is recommended. It's the situation I'm going through kinda, and I'm glad I threw down the extra cash on the 700w PSU when I did.
 
J-Rzez said:
From what I've gathered, I'd suspect that this would limit you in the future if you ever got the bug to SLI that 560ti, as it's a good card for the money, but if you get into it more so, and you want to get better, SLI is your option, and 700w is recommended. It's the situation I'm going through kinda, and I'm glad I threw down the extra cash on the 700w PSU when I did.
A good point, but I've never been an SLI fan, been a single GPU guy for ages.
 
()_listerfeend_() said:
Weird, I just ordered a Ultimate Silent today! Can't wait.
Any reason you picked the one without letters on it? I personally don't look at the keys much but it bugs me for non standard keys or the keypad, I don't remember what button is what.
 
Gvaz said:
Any reason you picked the one without letters on it? I personally don't look at the keys much but it bugs me for non standard keys or the keypad, I don't remember what button is what.

I just really like the way it looks. And I'm using it at work, so now I'll look totally bad ass typing on a blank keyboard.
 
Dunno what did it, but my speed step and turbo is working now.
I think I ended up setting stuff to disabled and then back to enabled (and enabled instead of auto).

Still running the "2133" RAM at 1866, but I won't care too much about that until I start overclocking (which won't be for a while).
 
Jibbed said:
I'm looking for a GTX 580... any recommendations on manufacturer/model?
MSI Twin Frozr III is a popular one if you're interested in OC'ing or a card with a better cooling solution than stock but not interested in putting a custom cooler yourself.
 
TheExodu5 said:
I finally made my decision on the mechanical keyboard I'll be going with:

WASD Keyboards


It's an upstart company led by a single guy and he seems to be doing a great job responding to community feedback.

The price is great as well. $119 for your choice of Blue, Brown, or Black, as well as general customization options: classic/modern/blank, laser vs. engraved, base keycap color, escape key color, wasd key color. $139 will get you full customization for every individual key. For $20 he'll also install O-rings on each key, to reduce the noise of bottoming out the keys.

Based on feedback in this thread, he's also going to be ordering new improved O-rings that should make it in by mid November.

Examples:

http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/media/gallery/cache/800x533/523ee8f65d57d1a33c013333a18aed83/cust_creations99e.jpg[img]

[img]http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/media/gallery/cache/800x533/523ee8f65d57d1a33c013333a18aed83/cust_creations05.jpg[img]

[img]http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/media/gallery/cache/800x533/523ee8f65d57d1a33c013333a18aed83/cust_creations94e.jpg[img][/QUOTE]

Free delivery to UK too? :O
I'm quite interested.
 
I'm wondering if you guys could help me troubleshoot my new system:

Intel Core i5 2500K 3.3GHz Socket 1155 6MB Cache Retail Boxed Processor
Asus P8Z68-V PRO Z68 Socket 1155 8 Channel HD Audio ATX Motherboard
Asus GTX 560Ti DirectCU II 1GB GDDR5 Dual DVI Mini HDMI PCI-E Graphics Card
Corsair 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 1600MHz Vengeance Memory Kit CL9 1.5V
Samsung HD204UI Spinpoint F4 2TB Hard Drive SATA 5400RPM 32MB Cache
OS: Windows 7 Professional 64-bit

I'm having trouble with playing games; so far every one I've played -- DR2, DXHR and The Witcher 2, all updated to the latest versions -- have crashed to desktop.

Dead Rising 2 (GFW disc version) - This is the first one I noticed problems with. I'm playing, and suddenly the screen freezes. Sometimes it briefly returns to motion before freezing again. Sometimes the whole screen flickers black. After about 20-30 seconds of this, it CTD and Windows says the program has stopped responding. The longest I've played for is about 10-15 minutes, but usually it craps out in under 5.

Deus Ex: Human Revolution (Steam) - I'm playing, and everything's fine, before it CTD. No lockups or anything, it goes straight to the desktop and Windows says the program has stopped responding.

I've tried it 3 times and the first time it crashed within 5 minutes of getting in-game, the next time about 20 seconds of getting in-game, and the third time I managed to complete the first mission in the Sarif manufacturing plant before it hanged on the loading screen (this happens on repeat loads - an unrelated problem to do with a corrupt download, maybe? I'm verifying game cache to be sure -- just checked, and yeah, it was a bung download).

The Witcher 2 (GOG.com version) - This one lasts longer than the others. I can play for about an hour before the game simply exits and returns to the launcher.

At first I thought it was memory, so I ran memtest86+ with 3 passes, and it passed.

Then I played through the games and checked the temperature. My CPU reached 56C maximum, and GPU hit 72C on DXHR, but never higher than 60 on Dead Rising 2 (I've yet to check the temperature with The Witcher 2). Crashes also seem to be independent of my GPU or CPU's temperature.

I'm leaning towards it being a driver issue due to the random nature of the crashes, and I'm thinking it may be best to simply format the hard drive and start again at this point. But before I do that (and potentially waste a few hours of my time) is there anything else I could do to help pinpoint the problem?
 
Jibbed said:
I'm looking for a GTX 580... any recommendations on manufacturer/model?

I prefer EVGA, because of the external exhaust & lifetime warranty. Also, overclocking is pretty simple & easy on these cards.

Just got my 2nd card a few days ago ;)
dsc00042bl.jpg


Only thing that bothers me is my PSU. Sucks, that it's non-modular. I tried my best, but it's hard with all that extra cables laying around.
 
Omikaru said:
I'm wondering if you guys could help me troubleshoot my new system:

Intel Core i5 2500K 3.3GHz Socket 1155 6MB Cache Retail Boxed Processor
Asus P8Z68-V PRO Z68 Socket 1155 8 Channel HD Audio ATX Motherboard
Asus GTX 560Ti DirectCU II 1GB GDDR5 Dual DVI Mini HDMI PCI-E Graphics Card
Corsair 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 1600MHz Vengeance Memory Kit CL9 1.5V
Samsung HD204UI Spinpoint F4 2TB Hard Drive SATA 5400RPM 32MB Cache
OS: Windows 7 Professional 64-bit

I'm having trouble with playing games; so far every one I've played -- DR2, DXHR and The Witcher 2, all updated to the latest versions -- have crashed to desktop.

Dead Rising 2 (GFW disc version) - This is the first one I noticed problems with. I'm playing, and suddenly the screen freezes. Sometimes it briefly returns to motion before freezing again. Sometimes the whole screen flickers black. After about 20-30 seconds of this, it CTD and Windows says the program has stopped responding. The longest I've played for is about 10-15 minutes, but usually it craps out in under 5.

Deus Ex: Human Revolution (Steam) - I'm playing, and everything's fine, before it CTD. No lockups or anything, it goes straight to the desktop and Windows says the program has stopped responding.

I've tried it 3 times and the first time it crashed within 5 minutes of getting in-game, the next time about 20 seconds of getting in-game, and the third time I managed to complete the first mission in the Sarif manufacturing plant before it hanged on the loading screen (this happens on repeat loads - an unrelated problem to do with a corrupt download, maybe? I'm verifying game cache to be sure -- just checked, and yeah, it was a bung download).

The Witcher 2 (GOG.com version) - This one lasts longer than the others. I can play for about an hour before the game simply exits and returns to the launcher.

At first I thought it was memory, so I ran memtest86+ with 3 passes, and it passed.

Then I played through the games and checked the temperature. My CPU reached 56C maximum, and GPU hit 72C on DXHR, but never higher than 60 on Dead Rising 2 (I've yet to check the temperature with The Witcher 2). Crashes also seem to be independent of my GPU or CPU's temperature.

I'm leaning towards it being a driver issue due to the random nature of the crashes, and I'm thinking it may be best to simply format the hard drive and start again at this point. But before I do that (and potentially waste a few hours of my time) is there anything else I could do to help pinpoint the problem?

Get all the latest updates for Microsoft .NET Framework through Windows Update. Uninstall your drivers without the use of DriverSweeper or any other registry cleaning software. Try installing a previous vesions of your Nvidia drivers. Maybe you might have some luck.
 
im trying to build my friend a $700 computer and i wonder if all of this works with each other



G.SKILL Sniper Low Voltage Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600

GIGABYTE GA-970A-UD3 AM3+ AMD 970 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX AMD Motherboard

PowerColor AX6870 1GBD5-2DH Radeon HD 6870 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16

AMD Phenom II X4 955 Black Edition Deneb 3.2GHz Socket AM3 125W Quad-Core Processor

SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD103SJ 1TB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5"

Fractal Design Core 3000 ATX Mid Tower Computer Case w/ 3 Fans

ASUS DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS Black SATA 24X DVD Burner - Bulk - OEM

SeaSonic S12II 520 Bronze 520W ATX12V V2.3 / EPS 12V V2.91 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC Power Supply

im worried that the powersupply might now be enough but im am not sure...thanks guys
 
ombz said:
I thought the ram had to be on 1 and 3 or is it they can't be next to each other.
When I first got the stuff for my rig, initially a lot of people, especially over at the MSI forums were telling me to at least have 1 stick of ram at slot 1 during initial installation of the OS. After that was done, I could move it to slot 2 and install the 2nd stick on slot 4 to get my heatsink with fans to fit (I use a v6gt). I'm not sure why this was necessary but I just followed their advice now, I've been running my setup with ram modules on slots 2 and 4 fine for months now.
 
longdi said:
those looking for a mech keyboard, get the $99 rosewell before they are gone! the quality of the keys exceeds the likes of blackwidow, thermaltake, mionix, ducky imo. the logo is a bit fugly.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16823201040

uncovered.jpg
At first I was going to say there's quite a few mechanical keyboards which suck, such as the steelseries which still uses rubber dome switches but that one uses cherry blue.

Cherry brown is in the das as well.
 
georaldc said:
When I first got the stuff for my rig, initially a lot of people, especially over at the MSI forums were telling me to at least have 1 stick of ram at slot 1 during initial installation of the OS. After that was done, I could move it to slot 2 and install the 2nd stick on slot 4 to get my heatsink with fans to fit (I use a v6gt). I'm not sure why this was necessary but I just followed their advice now, I've been running my setup with ram modules on slots 2 and 4 fine for months now.
It's best to go by what your mobo's manual says is the best configuration for 2 sticks of RAM.
 
Flame Lord said:
Anyone know which of these two monitors are a better deal?

SAMSUNG S23A300B



ASUS VS248H-P

I already have the Asus on the way but considering the price difference I'm thinking about returning it and going for the Samsung instead.
Damn that Samsung is cheap!!! The extra inch is pretty good though, but worth $50? Don't know... Only problem with newegg, aren't returns subject to 15% restocking fee?
 
chrisisawesome said:
Damn that Samsung is cheap!!! The extra inch is pretty good though, but worth $50? Don't know... Only problem with newegg, aren't returns subject to 15% restocking fee?

I ordered the Asus from Overstock which will give a full refund.
 
chrisisawesome said:
Damn that Samsung is cheap!!! The extra inch is pretty good though, but worth $50? Don't know... Only problem with newegg, aren't returns subject to 15% restocking fee?
Newegg has a pretty terrible dead pixel policy, I wouldn't buy a monitor from them unless that has changed recently.
 
chaosblade said:
Newegg has a pretty terrible dead pixel policy, I wouldn't buy a monitor from them unless that has changed recently.

Monitor Standard Return Policy
Return for refund within: 30 days
Return for replacement within: 30 days
Restocking Fee: yes
This is our Standard 30-Day Return Policy. Items covered by this policy (those products for which Newegg states "This item may be returned for a replacement or refund within 30 days only") must be returned to Newegg within 30 days of the invoice date for this policy to apply. “Return” constitutes receipt of the product by Newegg, and not the mere issuance of an RMA.

The following conditions are not acceptable for return, and will result in the merchandise being returned to you:
Any monitor that has been found to be damaged due to physical abuse or misuse.

Seems decent to me.
 
Angelus Errare said:
Seems decent to me.
Not sure if it was ever in there, but apparently they wouldn't consider a monitor "damaged" unless it had 8+ dead pixels, or if there were fewer they had to be clustered. If it had less you had to pay a restocking fee to get a replacement, on top of return shipping. Pretty ridiculous.

They might not have that policy anymore though.
 
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