Angelus Errare
Banned
Ah, never knew that, but yeah on [H] many people vouch for Newegg's return policy on monitors being uber.
"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]
- Thread starter Hazaro
- Start date
- Status
My setup:
CoolerMaster 690 II Advanced
Asus P8P67 Pro (REV 3.1)
Intel Core i5 2500K
CoolerMaster Hyper 212+
MSI Radeon HD 6950 Twin Frozr III 2GB
Crucial M4 128GB SSD
Corsair Vengeance 1600MHz 2x4GB (low profile)
Corsair HX750W PSU
The funny thing is that I haven't bought a monitor and keyboard so it's just sitting under my desk until Monday
elrechazado
Banned
another random question for the thread: would it work (for a short term use only) to put a new 570 card in a core 2 duo mobo?
iSurvivedTheOutage said:
It's what you'll use the most over the years with your PC. Why not
Birkz said:My setup:
CoolerMaster 690 II Advanced
Asus P8P67 Pro (REV 3.1)
Intel Core i5 2500K
CoolerMaster Hyper 212+
MSI Radeon HD 6950 Twin Frozr III 2GB
Crucial M4 128GB SSD
Corsair Vengeance 1600MHz 2x4GB (low profile)
Corsair HX750W PSU
The funny thing is that I haven't bought a monitor and keyboard so it's just sitting under my desk until Monday
Looks like your GPU is sagging.
Mr Nightman
Banned
any pci express video card works in any motherboard with the slot as far as I know, so go for itelrechazao said:
Yeah I heard those were decent. $20 gift card makes it more like $80 which is great.longdi said:those looking for a mech keyboard, get the $99 rosewell before they are gone! the quality of the keys exceeds the likes of blackwidow, thermaltake, mionix, ducky imo. the logo is a bit fugly.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823201040
PSU is way more than enough. One of the best units too.zulfate said:
Just make sure the 212 will fit and get regular voltage RAM instead.
Yupelrechazao said:
GPUs are heavy man. PCI-E slot should be like 5 inches tall to support cards.Smokey said:It's what you'll use the most over the years with your PC. Why not
Looks like your GPU is sagging.
Anybody with experience making htpcs? Trying to see how much it would cost to replace a dying desktop I have hooked up to my TV with something smaller and better. Obviously need something capable of playing 1080p mkvs & 1080p flash streams. Not really sure where to look to get information on HTPC stuff D:
http://pressroom.nvidia.com/easyir/...releasejsp=release_157&xhtml=true&prid=809591
So looks like Nvidia will be launching their "next-gen" of 3D glasses along with some new technology that delivers 2x brighter 3D images than what is currently offered. Asus will be the first out of the gate with a new monitor and new glasses:
I absolutely love my current 3D Asus monitor. Even for general desktop use the 120hz refresh is great. For games in 3D also have same praise. Haven't noticed any crosstalk or lag with the titles I've tried so far. Four more inches of screen real estate would be kind of awesome...Price is steep but that comes with the territory.
Says it's supposed to hit at the end of October (monitor and the glasses). Just giving a heads up. I know a lot of you aren't big into the 3D stuff, but just a heads up for those that are interested.
The 212 refers to the heatsink yes.
So looks like Nvidia will be launching their "next-gen" of 3D glasses along with some new technology that delivers 2x brighter 3D images than what is currently offered. Asus will be the first out of the gate with a new monitor and new glasses:
Nvidia 3D Vision 2 PR said:
I absolutely love my current 3D Asus monitor. Even for general desktop use the 120hz refresh is great. For games in 3D also have same praise. Haven't noticed any crosstalk or lag with the titles I've tried so far. Four more inches of screen real estate would be kind of awesome...Price is steep but that comes with the territory.
Says it's supposed to hit at the end of October (monitor and the glasses). Just giving a heads up. I know a lot of you aren't big into the 3D stuff, but just a heads up for those that are interested.
zulfate said:
The 212 refers to the heatsink yes.
ShadyLurker
Member
Today was first attempt at an OC on my 2500k with my Biostar Tz68a+ mobo. I followed CLunk's guide in the OP. Had to google search around a bit though to find out what some of my bios settings meant. It seems Biostar has some weird ones that are different or just plain non-existent in other brands. I found a solid clock and I could go higher I believe, but I think I'll just leave it as is. I don't need to squeeze every last drop out of it.
I figured I'd take a screenshot, this is my CPu during hour 3 of running Prime95:
So how did I do? Does everything seem average for 4.5Ghz?
I figured I'd take a screenshot, this is my CPu during hour 3 of running Prime95:
So how did I do? Does everything seem average for 4.5Ghz?
black_vegeta
Member
Smokey said:
Mine does as well. Since your GPU's sit vertically, you don't see the sag like us horizontal folk get.
I did this, but had problems installing .NET (crashed Windows Update, and then vanished from Windows Update), so I thought it was safe to assume my Windows install was screwed.MC RaZaR said:
Reinstalled it last night from a newly-burned disc, which I burned (got Windows via The Ultimate Steal -- not a pirate
) at a slow speed just in case my older disc was corrupt. I'm keeping the software installed on this machine to a bare minimum until I can test everything. I still had a problem installing .NET Framework 4 from Windows Update (wouldn't get past 0%), so I cancelled and downloaded it from Microsoft's site. That installed fine.Downloading DXHR now, so we'll see how it runs this time. If all goes well, I'll try DR2 next, and if that's fine then I'll consider the issue solved. If not, I guess one of my new parts isn't playing nice, and I'll consider my options then.
Wolf Akela
Member
Theoretically speaking, a game installed on SSD but symlinked from an HDD won't be as good as directly loading the game from the SSD right? I'm assuming this since it'll have to take into account the time to seek the link in the HDD.
If so, I'm gonna install Steam on my SSD but I'll only keep a few favorites on the SSD. The rest of the Steam games will be symlinked to my HDD.
Otherwise, I'll just install Steam on the HDD, symlink favorites to SSD so I wouldn't have to bother symlinking most games.
If so, I'm gonna install Steam on my SSD but I'll only keep a few favorites on the SSD. The rest of the Steam games will be symlinked to my HDD.
Otherwise, I'll just install Steam on the HDD, symlink favorites to SSD so I wouldn't have to bother symlinking most games.
OK, BorgHivemindComputerGAF, I have an important question and I need the best advice. This is what I want to do, and this is the advice I need.
I am planning on creating a system designed specifically for streaming Xbox360/PS3 games in 720p HD to Justin.TV. I recently purchased a Black Magic Intensity Pro card and everything looks great, but the problem is my poor little Wolfdale dual core goes straight to 100% CPU usage when I stream and the framerate goes to hell. I have everything else I need, but it is obvious now that I need a new motherboard+new processor+new ram. Please help me pick out a mean triple combo of these three from Newegg. My bandwith is 30mbits down and 3mbits up, so I think I have more than enough to stream 720p.
1. What kind of processor am I looking at for HD streaming? Currently I'm looking at a new AMD 6 core.
2. What's the best board?
3. How much RAM? I'm thinking either 6 to 12 gigs. Is that overkill?
This is what I'm currently looking at. Please give me your best advice for the setup I need. Thanks!
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.739473
I am planning on creating a system designed specifically for streaming Xbox360/PS3 games in 720p HD to Justin.TV. I recently purchased a Black Magic Intensity Pro card and everything looks great, but the problem is my poor little Wolfdale dual core goes straight to 100% CPU usage when I stream and the framerate goes to hell. I have everything else I need, but it is obvious now that I need a new motherboard+new processor+new ram. Please help me pick out a mean triple combo of these three from Newegg. My bandwith is 30mbits down and 3mbits up, so I think I have more than enough to stream 720p.
1. What kind of processor am I looking at for HD streaming? Currently I'm looking at a new AMD 6 core.
2. What's the best board?
3. How much RAM? I'm thinking either 6 to 12 gigs. Is that overkill?
This is what I'm currently looking at. Please give me your best advice for the setup I need. Thanks!
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.739473
Perfect overclock, nothing to worry about.ShadyLurker said:Today was first attempt at an OC on my 2500k with my Biostar Tz68a+ mobo. I followed CLunk's guide in the OP. Had to google search around a bit though to find out what some of my bios settings meant. It seems Biostar has some weird ones that are different or just plain non-existent in other brands. I found a solid clock and I could go higher I believe, but I think I'll just leave it as is. I don't need to squeeze every last drop out of it.
I figured I'd take a screenshot, this is my CPu during hour 3 of running Prime95:
So how did I do? Does everything seem average for 4.5Ghz?
212 is HS. 1.5V RAMzulfate said:
Right on the money.ShadyLurker said:
You want Steam to be on the SSD since it can be stupid slow on the HDD.Wolf Akela said:
Not a big deal if you just want to put it on the HDD though. IF you are making a link anyway might as well install Steam to SSD imo. OP should have a guide or utility.
What is your budget?Zeal said:
I'd look at the $845 build parts. Maybe spend a bit more on the mobo if you want, lot of choices.
The FX CPUs are kinda... not so great at a lot of things.
RAM is cheap and 8GB is plenty.
PjotrStroganov
Member
Smokey said:
The case comes with a GPU retention bracket, so he could use that.
Hey guys.. I was hoping for some advice on a build. Never built/chose a PC before. I'm looking at the OP a lot but it's still a bit stressful to just buy something without posting here.
Anyway, I really wanted to build one myself, but after a bit of searching it seems infinitely more time-efficient and cost-efficient to just buy a premade one (since if I don't, I'll have to import most parts, and the price just blows up).
I can get the following pre-made PC for ~550 bucks:
Power Supply: IN-WIN Power Man 450W
Case: CoolerMaster 370
CPU: i5 2500
Mobo: ASUS P8H61M LX B3
HD: WD 500gb
RAM: 4gb DDR3 1333MHz (and they won't specify whose)
DVD: Standard LG one
And then I can import a GTX460 and put it in, which would be ~190 bucks.
So 2 questions:
1. Is this good enough to run some games decently (as long as it can run Skyrim well I'm fine)? Is it too good? And if the latter, what can I lower?
2. Should I try looking harder for ways to build a new one?
When I looked into importing the i3 model in the OP, I gave up when it reached ~$850 before I even inputted 3/4ths of the items. I was pretty lost what to do, but if the above build is too much I can look again.
Anyway, I really wanted to build one myself, but after a bit of searching it seems infinitely more time-efficient and cost-efficient to just buy a premade one (since if I don't, I'll have to import most parts, and the price just blows up).
I can get the following pre-made PC for ~550 bucks:
Power Supply: IN-WIN Power Man 450W
Case: CoolerMaster 370
CPU: i5 2500
Mobo: ASUS P8H61M LX B3
HD: WD 500gb
RAM: 4gb DDR3 1333MHz (and they won't specify whose)
DVD: Standard LG one
And then I can import a GTX460 and put it in, which would be ~190 bucks.
So 2 questions:
1. Is this good enough to run some games decently (as long as it can run Skyrim well I'm fine)? Is it too good? And if the latter, what can I lower?
2. Should I try looking harder for ways to build a new one?
When I looked into importing the i3 model in the OP, I gave up when it reached ~$850 before I even inputted 3/4ths of the items. I was pretty lost what to do, but if the above build is too much I can look again.
All things considered it is not bad.
In-Win is more an nonUS/OEM manufacturer so I can't tell you much about their PSUs.
Just from the 320W on the 12V it looks more like a 380W PSU to me. I can't say what quality it is, but FSP seems to have used them in the past...
Should be fine with a 2500 and suit your needs. Make sure the GTX460 you get comes with a molex to 6 pin power adapter (It should). Otherwise find one for a few bucks.
In-Win is more an nonUS/OEM manufacturer so I can't tell you much about their PSUs.
Just from the 320W on the 12V it looks more like a 380W PSU to me. I can't say what quality it is, but FSP seems to have used them in the past...
Should be fine with a 2500 and suit your needs. Make sure the GTX460 you get comes with a molex to 6 pin power adapter (It should). Otherwise find one for a few bucks.
Just keeping everyone updated on this, in case someone has some insight or experience.
Researched the issue a bit more, and found that the nVidia 280.26 driver has issues with a lot of systems and games.
More similar issues:
https://secure.mycrysis.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=37938&view=previous
http://forums.nvidia.com/index.php?showtopic=207666&st=460
http://euw.leagueoflegends.com/board/showthread.php?t=372948&page=4
Someone else also had a similar problem, but only for Space Marine, and apparently that was RAM voltage. I doubt that's my problem, and I'm going to install a different driver first and see if the problem persists.
Thinking I'll try the 275.33 driver.
Edit: Here's my original troubleshoot post, in case anyone wants to have a look back.
Still crashing even with a completely new install of Windows. So it's either a hardware fault, or a driver issue.Omikaru said:I did this, but had problems installing .NET (crashed Windows Update, and then vanished from Windows Update), so I thought it was safe to assume my Windows install was screwed.
Reinstalled it last night from a newly-burned disc, which I burned (got Windows via The Ultimate Steal -- not a pirate
Downloading DXHR now, so we'll see how it runs this time. If all goes well, I'll try DR2 next, and if that's fine then I'll consider the issue solved. If not, I guess one of my new parts isn't playing nice, and I'll consider my options then.
Researched the issue a bit more, and found that the nVidia 280.26 driver has issues with a lot of systems and games.
More similar issues:
https://secure.mycrysis.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=37938&view=previous
http://forums.nvidia.com/index.php?showtopic=207666&st=460
http://euw.leagueoflegends.com/board/showthread.php?t=372948&page=4
Someone else also had a similar problem, but only for Space Marine, and apparently that was RAM voltage. I doubt that's my problem, and I'm going to install a different driver first and see if the problem persists.
Thinking I'll try the 275.33 driver.
Edit: Here's my original troubleshoot post, in case anyone wants to have a look back.
A bad Win 7 install isn't that uncommon.
My impression is that it is your GPU. Can you swap it?
1st check the memory if you haven't. (Memtest86+)
Does underclocking the GPU help? (Use MSI Afterburner)
Set BLCK in BIOS to 100.0Mhz
Check voltages from PSU. What PSU?
My impression is that it is your GPU. Can you swap it?
1st check the memory if you haven't. (Memtest86+)
Does underclocking the GPU help? (Use MSI Afterburner)
Set BLCK in BIOS to 100.0Mhz
Check voltages from PSU. What PSU?
chaosblade said:
Thanks for the reply. They're actually 4x1GB sticks that show they're at 400MHz. I'm having issues at startup sometimes that appear to be RAM issues but they all show up normal so it's a random thing to where some PC repair places supposedly couldn't find any problems or any overheating with the other parts.
I'd like to think I can get a decent mobo + CPU combo for Christmas so maybe it's better to wait but that's not set in stone so if faster DDR2 runs any better for cheap then it might be worth it. I just was curious if that slow of a clock speed would affect me in any way performance wise?
As far as the rest of the computer, it's hard to say if it'll be upgraded anytime soon since there's no income coming in and a lot going out to medical bills, lol. So a temporary performance boost might be worth it to me for BF3 since RAM is cheaper than everything else I want.
My main goal after that is to replace the motherboard since it's been acting a little whonky ever since my 4850 decided to turn my PC into an oven. Some friends helped me get a 5770 back then and I learned never to trust AMD and their stock coolers so I bought a cooler after that. I still think it was messed up that they shipped the 4850's with that big of a heat problem.
One friend is trying to help pitch in for a better card and then I'll try to upgrade the rest with birthday or Christmas money so then I have a brand new PC by upgrading one at a time, lol. Best case scenario is that the government gives in on disability or even the military finally admits to it and settles but it doesn't look like that's coming for another year which is why small upgrades are a must.
I reinstalled Windows from a different disc, and I'm still having this problem.Hazaro said:
I think it's the GPU too. Just not sure if it's the drivers or the hardware itself that's knackered.
I can swap it, and I'm going to as a last resort. Going to try an older driver to see if I have the problem, and if I don't then I know it's a driver issue. If I do, I'm going to switch it with my old 4870X2 and see if I still get the problem. If not, then I'll send the GPU back to eBuyer and stick with my 4870X2 for a couple of months. I'll miss the performance boost the 560 Ti has given me, but I'll go AMD when they release their new cards.
First thing I did. 3 passes and everything was fine. I will try MemtestG80 for my graphics card RAM, unless anyone thinks this is a bad idea.
Will that work with my Asus motherboard?
Edit: Never mind, thought you told me to underclock CPU. I'll give that a try.
I have no idea what this is. Googled it but can't find anything. Can someone explain what this is/does?
It's my old PSU which I recycled from my old PC. It's worked fine for years with my Core 2 Quad Q6600 and Radeon 4870 X2. Model is Hiper M1000 1000W. How would I check the voltages on this?
Thank you for the help/advice so far.
PjotrStroganov
Member
Try checking the memory one at a time. Otherwise you'll be running the test at least 3 times with multiple banks.
Beaten to the punch.
Beaten to the punch.
Thought you tested your RAM already, wasn't sure if it was someone else. Just commenting on Win 7 installs.Omikaru said:First thing I did. 3 passes and everything was fine. I will try MemtestG80 for my graphics card RAM, unless anyone thinks this is a bad idea.
I have no idea what this is. Googled it but can't find anything. Can someone explain what this is/does?
It's my old PSU which I recycled from my old PC. It's worked fine for years with my Core 2 Quad Q6600 and Radeon 4870 X2. Model is Hiper M1000 1000W. How would I check the voltages on this?
Thank you for the help/advice so far.
BLCK is your 'core speed' of your system. Some makers boost this to 103 104 101 MHz. Lock it at 100. Should be smack dab in your face on one of the BIOS pages. Del/F2 on startup.
PSU should be fine. Voltages in BIOS under 'hardware status' or something.
I'd let memtest run overnight as well just in case.
I'll check out BLCK in a bit, and I'll run memtest again this evening if I haven't solved the problem by then.Hazaro said:
I just went back to older nVidia drivers, and no luck. Game crashed again after about 10 minutes.
nvwgf2um.dll was the problem, according to Windows. That's GPU/graphics drivers, right?
I have a slight problem and I need the help of GAFs brightest.
I recently had my computer upgraded with a MSI GTX 570 TF III. At the same time I also upgraded my PSU to a 750w Corsair.
The system is completely stable at stock speeds, and it runs completely cool at around 53 degrees under load. (770mhz core, 1540 shader)
Due to this, and the Twin Frozr III apparent ability to be clocked I tried my hand at clocking both core and shader in MSI afterburner. Unfortunately, the system becomes unstable if it is clocked any higher than around 820mhz core. My temps are fine, never exceeding 55 degrees at full load and I am not getting any graphical artifacts, but the display driver crashes none the less.
I recently had my computer upgraded with a MSI GTX 570 TF III. At the same time I also upgraded my PSU to a 750w Corsair.
The system is completely stable at stock speeds, and it runs completely cool at around 53 degrees under load. (770mhz core, 1540 shader)
Due to this, and the Twin Frozr III apparent ability to be clocked I tried my hand at clocking both core and shader in MSI afterburner. Unfortunately, the system becomes unstable if it is clocked any higher than around 820mhz core. My temps are fine, never exceeding 55 degrees at full load and I am not getting any graphical artifacts, but the display driver crashes none the less.
Kyaw said:
I have. Initially my version of afterburner wouldn't let me change the voltage settings, but after a update to a more recent version I can now move the voltage slider.
This does not do anything i practice though. Looking at GPU-Z or the voltage measurement in combustor, the voltage always peaks at 0.950v under load and 0.933 when it's off load.
No matter how much I tweak those settings I can't seem to increase the voltage over that point.
blahblah...blah
Member
Quick, noobish question - why is a 1.5GB GTX 580 preferable to a 2GB ATI 6950? Surely the extra half gig of video RAM must have some impact?
Secondly, and don't shoot me here PC-GAF, I want to use an Apple Cinema Display as a monitor for my PC, and according to documentation this will only work if I use a MiniDP-to-MiniDP cable from tower to monitor. Does this mean I need an ATI card, or can I use an HDMI-to-MiniDP converter?
Thanks!
Secondly, and don't shoot me here PC-GAF, I want to use an Apple Cinema Display as a monitor for my PC, and according to documentation this will only work if I use a MiniDP-to-MiniDP cable from tower to monitor. Does this mean I need an ATI card, or can I use an HDMI-to-MiniDP converter?
Thanks!
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
580 is a more powerful card than a 6950. The VRAM only makes a difference at really high resolutions, even 1GB is fine for most people (1080p).blahblah...blah said:
And I don't see why an adapter wouldn't work.
Before fiddling about with the voltage, I decided to see if it was actually my GPU/nVidia drivers that was causing my problems (see here, here and here) by switching my GTX 560 Ti with my old 4870 X2.
I played Deus Ex: Human Revolution for an hour before I switched it off, and it never crashed (or even looked like crashing). So it looks like I'll be returning the 560 Ti.
A shame. I've never had to return parts before and it's kind of put me off building another system next time.
I played Deus Ex: Human Revolution for an hour before I switched it off, and it never crashed (or even looked like crashing). So it looks like I'll be returning the 560 Ti.
A shame. I've never had to return parts before and it's kind of put me off building another system next time.
EatChildren
Currently polling second in Australia's federal election (first in the Gold Coast), this feral may one day be your Bogan King.
No nVidia drivers 285.38 I do not want my monitor to display at 59hz for no reason, and lock it out from displaying 60hz like it always has.
What the fuck is this shit and how do I fix it?
What the fuck is this shit and how do I fix it?
HocusPocus
Member
Got rid of my artifacting ATI 4800 and moved to a GTX470. Love it. Now I have a decent computer.
EatChildren
Currently polling second in Australia's federal election (first in the Gold Coast), this feral may one day be your Bogan King.
EatChildren said:
Go to your resolution settings. Create a custom resolution that is your native res. For example 1920x1080 or w/e. Then go ahead and use manual timings instead of automatic for the refresh rate settings. No need to change anything else but the refresh rate. Where it says 60.000, write 60.001.
That fixes the problem for me.
Well, my new Asus GTX 570 & 2700k setup works great... except for one little detail... that is starting to drive me mad.
My case seems to start to resonate with the arrangement of fans. After a few dozens of minutes it (the case) starts to produce a buzzing sound that gradually increases in intensity, becoming insufferable in about two hours. Applying some pressure (with my fingers) in the top left corner seem to stop the process, but only for a bit since it will start again.
I have been using the same case for about 6 years now.
Anyone had to deal with a similar issue?
My case seems to start to resonate with the arrangement of fans. After a few dozens of minutes it (the case) starts to produce a buzzing sound that gradually increases in intensity, becoming insufferable in about two hours. Applying some pressure (with my fingers) in the top left corner seem to stop the process, but only for a bit since it will start again.
I have been using the same case for about 6 years now.
Anyone had to deal with a similar issue?
Guys, I dont even know where to start ive been out of the mobo/processor game for awhile now.. please assist in what would be the best upgrade for my current setup
Basic Desktop Questions:
Your Current Specs: INTEL Q6600 2.4 / 4GB DDR2 / ASUS P5B / RADEON 5850
Budget: $400 / US
Main Use: Gaaming
Monitor Resolution: 1920x1080
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Battlefield 3, Star Wars Old Republic MMO
Are reusing any parts?: custom case / radeon 5850 / coolmax CUG-700B (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817159058)
When will you build?: Was hoping to buy parts at newegg before Battlefield 3 but could always wait until December
Will you be overclocking?: No
It appears all I need to buy parts for are a MB,CPU and MEMORY. MY P/S should work with i5 or so, right?
Basic Desktop Questions:
Your Current Specs: INTEL Q6600 2.4 / 4GB DDR2 / ASUS P5B / RADEON 5850
Budget: $400 / US
Main Use: Gaaming
Monitor Resolution: 1920x1080
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Battlefield 3, Star Wars Old Republic MMO
Are reusing any parts?: custom case / radeon 5850 / coolmax CUG-700B (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817159058)
When will you build?: Was hoping to buy parts at newegg before Battlefield 3 but could always wait until December
Will you be overclocking?: No
It appears all I need to buy parts for are a MB,CPU and MEMORY. MY P/S should work with i5 or so, right?
- Status