"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]
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Schmattakopf
Member
I just noticed there's a tickbox in main.cpl to "Switch primary and secondary buttons". I guess the driver would override that, although I'd just as soon use it without drivers if the mouse were cheap, considering the problems with Razer drivers.TheExodu5 said:
I wish there were other options apart from the one left-handed Logitech mouse (cordless), or a bunch of misshapen devices like this thing:
Schmattakopf said:I just noticed there's a tickbox in main.cpl to "Switch primary and secondary buttons". I guess the driver would override that, although I'd just as soon use it without drivers if the mouse were cheap, considering the problems with Razer drivers.
I wish there were other options apart from the one left-handed Logitech mouse (cordless), or a bunch of misshapen devices like this thing:
One thing you might want to look into: it's possible that the mouse configuration options from within the driver are saved onto the mouse itself. You could install the driver, reverse the buttons, and uninstall the driver.
Wolf Akela
Member
What's the flash card for?
XiaNaphryz
LATIN, MATRIPEDICABUS, DO YOU SPEAK IT
Just realized I never posted pics of my build from a few weeks ago.
Getting the case ready for the mobo:
PSU and mobo in the case w/ CPU, heatsink braces, and RAM:
Heatsink attached:
Just barely have clearance over the RAM!
Everything in. Did the best I could w/ cable management given where things had to plug-in on the mobo.
I know a lot of people will think the Extreme-Z is overboard, but I've been finding it well worth the price. Dual BIOS (I'm leaving the other one as stock as a failsafe I can switch to in a worst-case scenario), clear CMOS switch directly on the back I/O panel (already found it useful during my initial OC testing), on-board power and reset switches and error code LED for easy testing/troubleshooting before having to close everything up, being able to connect a laptop or tablet via wifi to monitor hardware clock/temp settings in real-time, and plenty of BIOS options for adjusting a myriad of voltages and other settings - it's made the OC process a lot easier for me, as I don't have to even be in the same room.
Getting the case ready for the mobo:
PSU and mobo in the case w/ CPU, heatsink braces, and RAM:
Heatsink attached:
Just barely have clearance over the RAM!
Everything in. Did the best I could w/ cable management given where things had to plug-in on the mobo.
I know a lot of people will think the Extreme-Z is overboard, but I've been finding it well worth the price. Dual BIOS (I'm leaving the other one as stock as a failsafe I can switch to in a worst-case scenario), clear CMOS switch directly on the back I/O panel (already found it useful during my initial OC testing), on-board power and reset switches and error code LED for easy testing/troubleshooting before having to close everything up, being able to connect a laptop or tablet via wifi to monitor hardware clock/temp settings in real-time, and plenty of BIOS options for adjusting a myriad of voltages and other settings - it's made the OC process a lot easier for me, as I don't have to even be in the same room.
ratcliffja
Member
So I finally assembled my new rig and nothing will turn on at all. Shouldn't the fan turn on for the psu at least? The only way I can tell that there is any power at all is a blinking blue light over the 24 pin connector. Other than that, all LEDs are off and no sound is made. Antec's website doesn't help at all.
I take it you bought it already then?Luixfern said:
Velociraptors are a huge waste in my eyes. Just get an SSD + big HDD for a faster and quitet system imo.
Different people different values.XiaNaphryz said:
Double check the start pins are correct. Short (connect) the power pins with something metal to check if it's your button.ratcliffja said:
Also it is common to have a loose screw behind the mobo or you forgot to install the small hexagon standoffs under the motherboard.
Recheck all cabling my hand, plug and unplug the cables, try to boot with bare minimum (1 stick of RAM, no dvd or hdd, or usb plugged in), then try it outside of the case.
XiaNaphryz
LATIN, MATRIPEDICABUS, DO YOU SPEAK IT
Are you sure the motherboard's mounted to the standoffs in the case properly? Could be a short.ratcliffja said:
ratcliffja
Member
What are standoffs? I screwed it in as best as I could.XiaNaphryz said:
ratcliffja
Member
Well I feel like an idiot. Though to be fair, they were just labeled as chassi screws and nothing in any of my manuals mentioned them. I guess I'll be unscrewing the whole thing now. Thanks a ton.
ratcliffja
Member
Yep that was the issue. All the lights come on. Now I just need to figure out how to hook up my SSD and my DVD drive and I'll be all set. Unfortunately, I may need a new DVD drive since the connector I used with my old PC doesn't seem to have the matching pins on the motherboard. There are a couple other places that might be other connection types other than power, but I can't figure out what they are.
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
Not totally a PC issue, but I'm building soon and it kind of has me nervous.
Twice now my UPS/battery backup has stopped delivery power to things on the battery backup part and started beeping a long continuous beep. Wonder if that could mean it's pulling too much power or something? Had to let it sit for a while before I could turn the PC back on.
I really don't want to have to buy another UPS, but I might have to. Mine doesn't exactly pump a ton of watts anyway. And I'm assuming that wouldn't be a PSU issue? I'm reusing that (Corsair VX 550W) and don't really want to have to replace it either.
Edit: Looks like a continuous tone could mean the battery needs replaced or an overload. Might be the former since it doesn't make sense for it to suddenly start overloading when I had no problems until recently.
Twice now my UPS/battery backup has stopped delivery power to things on the battery backup part and started beeping a long continuous beep. Wonder if that could mean it's pulling too much power or something? Had to let it sit for a while before I could turn the PC back on.
I really don't want to have to buy another UPS, but I might have to. Mine doesn't exactly pump a ton of watts anyway. And I'm assuming that wouldn't be a PSU issue? I'm reusing that (Corsair VX 550W) and don't really want to have to replace it either.
Edit: Looks like a continuous tone could mean the battery needs replaced or an overload. Might be the former since it doesn't make sense for it to suddenly start overloading when I had no problems until recently.
RukusProvider
Banned
Luixfern said:
Get a SSD. M4 128GB.
Looking for a heatsink now (probably will just put it on my wishlist for Christmas, I'm in no hurry to start overclocking).
Dunno if I should go with the 212 Evo, the Noctua, or the H80 / H100.
The 212 Evo looks like a good basic cooler, but probably not much better than the Corsair A70, which I could get cheap if I buy now (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181011 $20 after rebate).
The Noctua is just massive, and I don't know if I want that thing stressing my shit.
The H70/H80/H100 are all doable. (I'd have to top mound the H100, and remove my top 120mm fan, which is fine since I could keep it as a spare for my front one.) But I've heard of pump failure and fan control issues with them That's certainly something I'd want to avoid. Not sure the potential hassle is worth it.
Dunno if I should go with the 212 Evo, the Noctua, or the H80 / H100.
The 212 Evo looks like a good basic cooler, but probably not much better than the Corsair A70, which I could get cheap if I buy now (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181011 $20 after rebate).
The Noctua is just massive, and I don't know if I want that thing stressing my shit.
The H70/H80/H100 are all doable. (I'd have to top mound the H100, and remove my top 120mm fan, which is fine since I could keep it as a spare for my front one.) But I've heard of pump failure and fan control issues with them That's certainly something I'd want to avoid. Not sure the potential hassle is worth it.
MrOogieBoogie
BioShock Infinite is like playing some homeless guy's vivid imagination
Mudkips said:
Just how annoying is it to replace a heatsink? I imagine you can't do it without removing the mobo, right? And even then, how annoying is THAT process? Seems like a pain in the ass all together.
XiaNaphryz
LATIN, MATRIPEDICABUS, DO YOU SPEAK IT
The bracing apparatus is actually really well done - doesn't seem like it'll come loose or cause any major issues when attached properly.Mudkips said:
It's not as a pain in the ass if your case has an opening in the back to facilitate installing a new CPU backplate. Otherwise yes, you'll need to unmount everything.MrOogieBoogie said:
On another note, anyone have any recommendations for HDD enclosures? I've been migrating data over from my older PC HDDs with the hot-swap drive bay in the HAF X, but I have 1 older PATA drive I need to get stuff off of. So I'd need a HDD enclosure that could handle both SATA and IDE connections, and ideally supports eSATA for faster transfers.
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
I wouldn't bother with any of the hydro coolers except the H100, they are noisier than their air-cooled counter parts and don't cool any better.
That $20 A70 is a great deal and anybody looking for a cheaper cooler should definitely jump on it. But that and the 212+ aren't really even in the same ballpark as the NH-D14, Silver Arrow, H100, etc.
That $20 A70 is a great deal and anybody looking for a cheaper cooler should definitely jump on it. But that and the 212+ aren't really even in the same ballpark as the NH-D14, Silver Arrow, H100, etc.
Depends on your case, a lot of them have holes in the tray so you can remove the backplate without removing the motherboard from the case. It's not standardized though so sometimes the hole is useless because it won't line up with the backplate.
Giriath_89
Member
Mudkips said:
It is massive indeed. I had the toughest time fastening the screws of my MB onto the standoffs with that giant in the way, with no magnetic screwdriver.
Other than the size though, it's a great cooler.
Hazaro said:
I did not know that future parts would not be compatible with AM3. Thanks for bringing this to my attention. Will this stop me from just upgrading the proccesor? i thought that if i get x6 3.3ghz i will not need to think about an upgrade for along time.. when the time does come i could just get a newer mobo for cheaper anyway.. is this a good line of thinking? correct me if i'm wrong.
As for the Hitachi, i've always went with them.. i had 4 500gb hd's running almostly constantly with no problems in another comp for 3/4 years.
I have another question, will the stock cpu cooler be enough to aquedately cool the cpu? I'm not going to be overclocking it and the case is a full tower with loads of space and 7 fan ports, 4/5 installed.
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
You could get a AM3+ board, but the only thing you'll be able to upgrade to is BD which isn't really much of an upgrade.StaffordZ said:
If you have the budget for it you're better off with an Intel quad core, it will beat out the x6 in almost any application. Even looking forward 4 vs 6 cores shouldn't make a big difference.
Hitachi was rated the most reliable HDD company if I'm not mistaken. I don't think it's a bad choice, but a Samsung F3/F4 would most likely be faster (not up to date on Hitachi's newest drives).StaffordZ said:
Stock cooler is sufficient for stock speeds, especially in your case.StaffordZ said:
chaosblade said:
Thanks for the input
I've decided to upgrade mobo to Asus M5A99X EVO 990FX AM3+
It has 2 more usb 3.0's.. yayyy haha. (i'm using 1.0 just now....) (laptop has 2.0)
I would like to go i5 but my budget has unfortunately hit its limits already, by the looks of things the phenom II is giving me the most performance for money, but obv losing out on benchmarks to the dearer intel proccesors. I'm sure i will love the improvement anyway.. my 'gaming' pc just now is running x2 1.8ghz :|
i'll be sure to look into the f3/4's, thanks again.
Are you sure an i5 is out of budget? A $100 Biostar board is pretty cheap and very capable.StaffordZ said:Thanks for the input
I've decided to upgrade mobo to Asus M5A99X EVO 990FX AM3+
It has 2 more usb 3.0's.. yayyy haha. (i'm using 1.0 just now....) (laptop has 2.0)
I would like to go i5 but my budget has unfortunately hit its limits already, by the looks of things the phenom II is giving me the most performance for money, but obv losing out on benchmarks to the dearer intel proccesors. I'm sure i will love the improvement anyway.. my 'gaming' pc just now is running x2 1.8ghz :|
i'll be sure to look into the f3/4's, thanks again.
i5 is only $50 more than an x6, more performance and at least (hopefully) an Ivy BRidge upgrade path.
Did you look at the part guide in the OP?
Damn, didn't realize low-end 1155 was so cheap now. My old Athlon64x2 store-bought HP stopped working a few weeks back, and I was planning on just not pc gaming for a bit. But perusing the budget build options last night (and with Skyrim looming), <$200 for a cpu/mobo/memory/case (reusing gpu/hdd/dvd) was basically an impulse buy. I've only ever swapped in parts, so building one from scratch should be fun.
I'm not up to date with motherboards so I'm looking for some help. Is there a real difference between a P67 chip and a Z68?
This MSI MB looks great for the price
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130583
It doesn't look to have any disadvantages to the Biostar TZ68A+ listed in the OP. Since its now the same price before a $20 mail in rebate I'm wondering if I should jump on it.
This MSI MB looks great for the price
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130583
It doesn't look to have any disadvantages to the Biostar TZ68A+ listed in the OP. Since its now the same price before a $20 mail in rebate I'm wondering if I should jump on it.
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
Z68 lets you use the integrated graphics, quicksync, and SSD caching, as well as overclocking like the P67 boards.Laekon said:
For most people I don't think it's worth paying extra for.
And does anybody have any recommendations for a reasonably priced but decent UPS? Just in case I need to replace mine. Not sure yet. I really know nothing about these. Don't do SLI/CF so I doubt my power needs are ever going to be particularly excessive.
MrOogieBoogie
BioShock Infinite is like playing some homeless guy's vivid imagination
XiaNaphryz said:
I have the Rosewill Challenger. Any idea if that has the opening in the back you're talking about?
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
Looks like it, but it may or may not line up with the backplate depending on the motherboard. If the CPU sits further to the right than normal (due to the CPU power caps/mosfets+heatsink) it probably won't line up.MrOogieBoogie said:
Hazaro said:
Okay, i just had a another good read at the op. I take it intel are the definate go-to for cpu's then?
Heres a quick mark up..
Mobo:Biostar TP67B+ B3 Revision P67 Socket 1155 5.1 Channel Audio ATX
CPU:Core i5 2500 3.3GHz Socket 1155 6MB Cache
V
Mobo - Asus M5A99X EVO 990FX Socket AM3+ 8 Channel Audio
CPU - AMD Phenom II X6 Black Edition 1090T 3.2GHz Socket AM3 9MB Cache
I really do not know what to choose now, i can sit and read gleaming reviews about both setups all night =/ i'm not accustumed to many benchmark sites so any help is appreciated. I'd just like to purchase a solid gaming rig with peace of mind.
MrOogieBoogie
BioShock Infinite is like playing some homeless guy's vivid imagination
StaffordZ said:
Go with Intel. Easily.
Go with the Biostar TZ68+, though.
chrisisawesome
Member
hey guys i have a question: is it realistic to expect 50-60 fps in crysis 2 with the following:
Crysis 2: ultra settings, dx11, high-res texture pack at 1680x1050 or 1920x1080
PC:
q6600 @ 3ghz
4gb ram
gtx560 Ti?
i'm about to get the game and just was curious
Crysis 2: ultra settings, dx11, high-res texture pack at 1680x1050 or 1920x1080
PC:
q6600 @ 3ghz
4gb ram
gtx560 Ti?
i'm about to get the game and just was curious
Meh. My Cyborg R.A.T. 9 is fucked. The scroll wheel doesn't scroll consistently. Sometimes I roll it and nothing happens and it actually scrolls the wrong way occasionally.
When I use it to scroll down a thread quick, it's absolutely useless. Spin the wheel back 10 notches and it goes down 5, up 3, and does nothing twice.
Tried it on 2 different computers and several programs, so I'm sure it's the mouse. Put an email in to their tech support, so we'll see how that goes. I've read some bad things about their support though.
I don't think I've ever had a mouse that lasted a year.
When I use it to scroll down a thread quick, it's absolutely useless. Spin the wheel back 10 notches and it goes down 5, up 3, and does nothing twice.
Tried it on 2 different computers and several programs, so I'm sure it's the mouse. Put an email in to their tech support, so we'll see how that goes. I've read some bad things about their support though.
I don't think I've ever had a mouse that lasted a year.
Thanks again lads. My revised build now looks like this..
MOBO - Biostar T Series TZ68A+
CPU - Core i5 2500 3.3GHz Socket 1155 6MB Cache
HDD - Samsung HD204UI Spinpoint F4 2TB Hard Drive SATA 5400RPM 32MB Cache
RAM - Corsair 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 1333MHz XMS3 Memory Kit CL9 1.5V
CASE - NZXT Phantom White Full Tower Case -
Moniter - ViewSonic VX2439WM LCD TFT 24" HDMI Monitor
All for an extra £27 of what i originally was going for.
I'll take your word for it guys
I have PSU, GFX & an optical drive.. this may sound silly but is their anything else i'm missing? Will i need to buy sata cables and what not or will all the parts come with the correct peripherals & connections?
MOBO - Biostar T Series TZ68A+
CPU - Core i5 2500 3.3GHz Socket 1155 6MB Cache
HDD - Samsung HD204UI Spinpoint F4 2TB Hard Drive SATA 5400RPM 32MB Cache
RAM - Corsair 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 1333MHz XMS3 Memory Kit CL9 1.5V
CASE - NZXT Phantom White Full Tower Case -
Moniter - ViewSonic VX2439WM LCD TFT 24" HDMI Monitor
All for an extra £27 of what i originally was going for.
I'll take your word for it guys
I have PSU, GFX & an optical drive.. this may sound silly but is their anything else i'm missing? Will i need to buy sata cables and what not or will all the parts come with the correct peripherals & connections?
ShadyLurker
Member
StaffordZ said:Thanks again lads. My revised build now looks like this..
MOBO - Biostar T Series TZ68A+
CPU - Core i5 2500 3.3GHz Socket 1155 6MB Cache
HDD - Samsung HD204UI Spinpoint F4 2TB Hard Drive SATA 5400RPM 32MB Cache
RAM - Corsair 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 1333MHz XMS3 Memory Kit CL9 1.5V
CASE - NZXT Phantom White Full Tower Case -
Moniter - ViewSonic VX2439WM LCD TFT 24" HDMI Monitor
All for an extra £27 of what i originally was going for.
I'll take your word for it guys
I have PSU, GFX & an optical drive.. this may sound silly but is their anything else i'm missing? Will i need to buy sata cables and what not or will all the parts come with the correct peripherals & connections?
That mobo comes with 3 SATA cables.
chrisisawesome
Member
Hazaro said:
Yup, Ultra is the highest. I guess it's true...I did a little looking and on the nvidia website it says itll do around 40fps on ultra with dx11 - but not the texture pack. That seems good enough, I dont know how much of a noticeable difference that pack really adds
abuC said:Get a second 580
NO. Jesus. The price and power requirements for that are way too huge for such a small performance gain. If he really wants to go the SLI/Crossfire route, then he should get two 6950s, which will absolutely demolish every game out there for like half the price and it will sap much less power to boot. 2x 580s are completely unnecessary and quite frankly, just stupid.
Besides, we should be asking about his resolution. Because if it's less than 1600p, then even one GTX 580 is unnecessary.
oh and seconding the bit about Velociraptors being useless. If you're spending that sort of cash on a HDD, just buy an SSD.
The 2500K version of the processor will allow you to overclock and will help resale value later on. I suggest you purchase the K version.StaffordZ said:Thanks again lads. My revised build now looks like this..
MOBO - Biostar T Series TZ68A+
CPU - Core i5 2500 3.3GHz Socket 1155 6MB Cache
HDD - Samsung HD204UI Spinpoint F4 2TB Hard Drive SATA 5400RPM 32MB Cache
RAM - Corsair 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 1333MHz XMS3 Memory Kit CL9 1.5V
CASE - NZXT Phantom White Full Tower Case -
Moniter - ViewSonic VX2439WM LCD TFT 24" HDMI Monitor
All for an extra £27 of what i originally was going for.
I'll take your word for it guys
I have PSU, GFX & an optical drive.. this may sound silly but is their anything else i'm missing? Will i need to buy sata cables and what not or will all the parts come with the correct peripherals & connections?
You might not want to clock it up now, but that can change in 1-2 years or longer.
The Nature Roy
Member
Slapped in a GTX 570 SC in place of the GTX 460 and another 8gb of RAM yesterday. I should be ready for the fall gaming season now I'm thinking...
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