"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]

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Insane Metal said:
Anybody? Please?

4.5 out of that with any kind of air cooling and reasonable voltage is going to be extremely unlikely if not outright impossible. And unless you're getting it for very cheap, buying a CPU that was released nearly 4 years ago does not seem like a great idea.
 
Ugh. I think I have a hard drive dying on me. Here's my current setup:

C:/ is a new Intel 320 series SSD
D:/ is a 1TB drive transplanted from my old computer (this is the problematic one)
J:/ is a new 1TB samsung spinpoint

I built this machine back in July. For a while I've noticed that whenever I tried to access something on D:/, I would need to wait maybe 10 seconds for the drive to spin up, but then everything would be lickety-split after that.

Now though, it's like the drive won't spin up at all, and the weird thing is that it's dragging the rest of the machine down with it. Booting Windows takes forever, even though the OS (Win 7) is on C:/.

D:/ still appears under My Computer, but the computer is unable to tell me how much space is available on the drive. I tried running chkdsk on it, but it was just crawling along. Probably would take 24 hours just to run a complete scan.

If I open up the computer, unhook the D:/ drive's SATA cable, and turn it back on, everything works fine and fast as usual.

Anyone have any experience with something like this? Is the drive basically toast?
 
PolishQ said:
Ugh. I think I have a hard drive dying on me. Here's my current setup:

C:/ is a new Intel 320 series SSD
D:/ is a 1TB drive transplanted from my old computer (this is the problematic one)
J:/ is a new 1TB samsung spinpoint

I built this machine back in July. For a while I've noticed that whenever I tried to access something on D:/, I would need to wait maybe 10 seconds for the drive to spin up, but then everything would be lickety-split after that.

Now though, it's like the drive won't spin up at all, and the weird thing is that it's dragging the rest of the machine down with it. Booting Windows takes forever, even though the OS (Win 7) is on C:/.

D:/ still appears under My Computer, but the computer is unable to tell me how much space is available on the drive. I tried running chkdsk on it, but it was just crawling along. Probably would take 24 hours just to run a complete scan.

If I open up the computer, unhook the D:/ drive's SATA cable, and turn it back on, everything works fine and fast as usual.

Anyone have any experience with something like this? Is the drive basically toast?
Post the health stat tab from HD Tune 2.55 (Free).

http://www.hdtune.com/download.html

Most likely your HD is dying. SMART can tell some things, but if you physically hear consistent clicking, then something is wrong.

How old is it? Before platter densities became efficient, a lot of hard drive manufacturers stuffed multiple platters and heads to increase disk capacities at the cost of heat and dependability.
 
claviertekky said:
Post the health stat tab from HD Tune 2.55 (Free).

http://www.hdtune.com/download.html

Most likely your HD is dying. SMART can tell some things, but if you physically hear consistent clicking, then something is wrong.

How old is it? Before platter densities became efficient, a lot of hard drive manufacturers stuffed multiple platters and heads to increase disk capacities at the cost of heat and dependability.

Got the drive in Sept 2008. It's a Western Digital Caviar Black WD1001FALS 1TB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive. Still waiting on the problem machine to run HD Tune but will post my results when I have them.

I should add that the drive has not made any concerning noises.
 
Seems like my gpu miiiight be on its last legs. In the past 2 days I've had a BSOD (black screen for me, it never goes blue for some reason) and just a few minutes ago when I tried to restart I got that wavy and rather colorful pixelated screen on the windows screen. Temps don't seem to go any higher than normal when no game is running.

So in the offchance that it dies and I choose to just buy a new one instead of using the warranty, what would you guys recommend? I have a gtx 470 now and want to stay nvidia, and I heard new ones are coming early next year but idk if it'll hold out that long. It may just be random hiccups as I've had both of those problems once in a blue moon since I've bought it, just never both in less than 3 days.
 
gatti-man said:
Last time that happened to me was with 2 8800gtx's in sli. Less than a month later one bit the dust.
Blah. Don't say that! They're both less then a month old. I've seen a few other reports of it out there with nobody really figuring out what it was. At least they'll still be under warranty if one dies.
 
CoolS said:
So guys. My final setup, some last opinions before I pull the trigger on my new machine?

CPU:Intel Core i5-2500K, 4x 3.30GHz
Motherboard: ASRock P67 Pro3, P67 (B3) (dual PC3-10667U DDR3)
RAM: TeamGroup Elite DIMM Kit 8GB PC3-10667U CL9-9-9-24 (DDR3-1333)
HD: Samsung Spinpoint F3 1000GB
SSD: Crucial m4 SSD 64GB, 2.5", SATA 6Gb/s
CPU fan: Thermalright HR-02 Macho
PSU: be quiet! Straight Power E8 550W ATX 2.3
Xigmatek Midgard
optical drive: LG Electronics CH10LS20
graphigs: MSI N560GTX-Ti Twin Frozr II/OC

Shameless selfquote!
 
Angelus Errare said:
Dear "I make bank so I can afford 8 GTX580s" GAF

Anyone willing to part with a GTX570 for cheap (er than Newegg's $329) I'm willing to do morally questionable things.

But no seriously, anyone got one for sell? I don't want to settle for a 560Ti. =(

I'm tempted to start cooking crystal meth

LOL

Whats wrong with 560Ti??

I own a 570

Really tho?
 
Disabling Speedstep will make your cpu run at max speed all the time and not throttle? Or am I mixing things up?
 
Corky said:
Disabling Speedstep will make your cpu run at max speed all the time and not throttle? Or am I mixing things up?
Speedstep disabled = cpu runs at full speed all the time (my personal preference)
Speedstep enabled = reduces cpu speed/voltage when idle to reduce power consumption & heat
 
celcius said:
Speedstep disabled = cpu runs at full speed all the time (my personal preference)
Speedstep enabled = reduces cpu speed/voltage when idle to reduce power consumption & heat

Ah like I thought, thanks. How come you like to have it disabled?
 
Corky said:
Ah like I thought, thanks. How come you like to have it disabled?
Just a personal preference. I like for my machine to run at a constant speed/voltage and don't care about saving energy. I also don't like the idea of my pc lowering the voltage when I'm overclocked.
 
^^750W is more than needed/necessary for that setup. That motherboard doesn't support sli (only has one pci-e slot) so I assume you don't plan on adding a second videocard in the future. How much are you paying for the be quiet psu? (If you don't mind me asking)
 
My brother built me my new computer and it is fantastic! I just played my first every modern PC game at max settings (max AA and everything as well) and resolution, and I shat myself (to be fair, the game was Dungeon Siege 3...Not exactly the most demanding game ever). Seeing something running so smoothly was fucking amazing looking.

But I need a monitor. I cannot live off from my brother's monitor forever! So I was wondering if anyone has any experience with this one:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y3BJ7S/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Any good? Reviews are great, but I want more than that.
 
Does anyone know why Overclockers UK aren't listed in the OP as a place to buy parts? I've always used them, never found anywhere cheaper and the service is great.

Anyway my computer doesn't meet the minimum specs for Skyrim. It's my graphics card that's the sticking point. I'd replace it with a 560 ti but it needs a 500w psu and mine is 480w. Is it worth the risk or is there a good chance it'll kill my whole computer?
 
mu cephei said:
Does anyone know why Overclockers UK aren't listed in the OP as a place to buy parts? I've always used them, never found anywhere cheaper and the service is great.

Anyway my computer doesn't meet the minimum specs for Skyrim. It's my graphics card that's the sticking point. I'd replace it with a 560 ti but it needs a 500w psu and mine is 480w. Is it worth the risk or is there a good chance it'll kill my whole computer?
Added, just overlooked at the time. It is a great site.

Depends on PSU brand/model. A good 430W can power it, but ideally you want a bit more.
 
I've done some looking through the thread but I haven't found what I need (not saying it's not there, but it's a long thread).

I'm interested in getting a 120/128 gig SSD. My mobo doesn't support SATA III. What SSD is the best value for my money?
 
Hey guys I got a quick question about monitors. Playing my PC on my brother's Panasonic plasma, I've been envious of the awesome blacks and great colors. It's been hard trying to go back to my Asus ML238H 23" Monitor. I was wondering if there was a solution to getting a plasma like experience on a monitor, or lcd tv?

Any suggestions would be great.
 
Hazaro said:
Added, just overlooked at the time. It is a great site.

Depends on PSU brand/model. A good 430W can power it, but ideally you want a bit more.

Cool. Thanks for replying.

The psu is a Tagan TG480-U01. I guess it's a mediocre brand? I just did some googling now and I'm not sure it has all the necessary bits. But I'm trying to find a way not to cave in and build a whole new computer...
 
grkazan12 said:
Hey guys I got a quick question about monitors. Playing my PC on my brother's Panasonic plasma, I've been envious of the awesome blacks and great colors. It's been hard trying to go back to my Asus ML238H 23" Monitor. I was wondering if there was a solution to getting a plasma like experience on a monitor, or lcd tv?

Any suggestions would be great.

You can try the Asus ProArt series. I think up until pretty recently there was only a 24" model, but they've recently released a 23" model, the PA238Q. They are pre-calibrated and the color reproduction is incredible.
 
I am trying to get my brother a little better PC setup, but I want to recycle some of the parts from his old PC, mostly the PSU that I bought for him so he could upgrade his GPU in that machine.

Would a Corsair CX500 be enough to power this system?

AMD Phenom II X4 (125W)
Some micro-ATX mobo
8gb RAM
GTX 560Ti
64gb SSD
1TB HD
DVD drive
 
mu cephei said:
Cool. Thanks for replying.

The psu is a Tagan TG480-U01. I guess it's a mediocre brand? I just did some googling now and I'm not sure it has all the necessary bits. But I'm trying to find a way not to cave in and build a whole new computer...
It's ok. Not great and a bit over priced. It is old so I'd say get a new PSU.
theRizzle said:
I am trying to get my brother a little better PC setup, but I want to recycle some of the parts from his old PC, mostly the PSU that I bought for him so he could upgrade his GPU in that machine.

Would a Corsair CX500 be enough to power this system?

AMD Phenom II X4 (125W)
Some micro-ATX mobo
8gb RAM
GTX 560Ti
64gb SSD
1TB HD
DVD drive
Yes, but I suggest you upgrade to a BP550. Better and modular. Not much more.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371016
 
Hero_of_the_Day said:
Blah. Don't say that! They're both less then a month old. I've seen a few other reports of it out there with nobody really figuring out what it was. At least they'll still be under warranty if one dies.
Every time with sli I have a gpu go bad in the first year. 3 times in a row. I had a 480 go bad just 3 months ago. Idk why bc my case stays cool and its a hafX case.
 
Erm, where the hell do I mount my SSD? I bought an Antec Three Hundred for my new PC build and neither the case nor the SSD came with any way to mount this thing.

EDIT: Nm found it. Now to find some screws...
 
I've got a gigabyte mobo, GA-P55A-UD3, and it has a Marvell SATA3 controller on board. My Q is, I've got to upgrade my SSD, and can I use my on board controller, or should I get a card?
 
Anyone have some midrange graphics card recommendations under $70? Not looking to do anything too fancy just upgrade my current desktop's graphics before I eventually build a better one.
 
Ugh, the PC won't post. No beeps, nothing, and occasionally it will reboot itself.

Any thoughts?
 
reilo said:
Ugh, the PC won't post. No beeps, nothing, and occasionally it will reboot itself.

Any thoughts?
plug replug / check connections
start with minimum attached (1 stick of ram, no dvd, no hdd, no usb, kb, mouse, etc)
if no post assemble outside case
Lingitiz said:
Really? It would be great if I didn't have to replace it, but the thought of bricking the system is pretty scary.
You are fine
 
Hazaro said:
plug replug / check connections
start with minimum attached (1 stick of ram, no dvd, no hdd, no usb, kb, mouse, etc)
if no post assemble outside case
Before that last suggestion, make sure the mobo's not touching the case and shorting out.
 
Still nothing. I noticed that the CPU LED was on (P8Z68-V). Is that good or bad? Can't find a definitive answer in the manual.
 
Perhaps a dumb question but here it goes anyways. I was cleaning out my CPU cooler (Corsair H70) with come compressed air and now that I've turned my PC back on I swear the CPU fans are running noticeably louder than before. I checked the fan info in the EFI settings and they seem to be running at max RPM. Is it normal for CPU fans to always be running at max speed and if not how do I limit them? In the EFI settings I only saw an option for a "silent mode" which seems to do pretty much nothing. My motherboard is an ASUS P8P67 Deluxe if that matters.
 
Dyni Crippler said:
Might as well ask here...
GTX570 or 6970? And why?
Still undecided between these two, although I'm currently thinking of buying the 570.

570 without question. Haven't you been reading the ATi horror stories lately?
 
Is an upgrade from a Phenom x4 2.5GHz 9850 to an i5 2500K plus going from 4GB to 8GB worth it?

It's supposed to be a Christmas gift to make BF3 run better but do you think that CPU would last me a while at least?
 
demolitio said:
Is an upgrade from a Phenom x4 2.5GHz 9850 to an i5 2500K plus going from 4GB to 8GB worth it?

It's supposed to be a Christmas gift to make BF3 run better but do you think that CPU would last me a while at least?

yes! i5 2500k can easily overclock to 4.0-4.2ghz on stock voltages, means just change your multiplier in bios and bam! 2ghz faster than the x4 and with lower power consumption!

bf3 seems to run with less problems on 8gb and 64bit. more ram makes insta alt-tab back to desktop, love it!
 
PGamer said:
Perhaps a dumb question but here it goes anyways. I was cleaning out my CPU cooler (Corsair H70) with come compressed air and now that I've turned my PC back on I swear the CPU fans are running noticeably louder than before. I checked the fan info in the EFI settings and they seem to be running at max RPM. Is it normal for CPU fans to always be running at max speed and if not how do I limit them? In the EFI settings I only saw an option for a "silent mode" which seems to do pretty much nothing. My motherboard is an ASUS P8P67 Deluxe if that matters.

Did you tape/otherwise hold down your fans when you were spraying the air in your case? If you don't stop them from moving when you are spraying air, you can damage them.
 
theRizzle said:
Did you tape/otherwise hold down your fans when you were spraying the air in your case? If you don't stop them from moving when you are spraying air, you can damage them.
Yeah, but I only had one of the two fans held down as I didn't want to take apart the cooler. Here's a picture for reference:

mfg.jpg


So I'm not sure about the back fan. As far as I can tell they're both still working but I don't really know what to look for to detect a damaged fan. Is this more likely a damaged fan issue than a fan speed issue you think? They sound relatively fine to me other than being loud.

Edit: I ran HWMonitor and my CPU temp is around 28 degrees Celsius while the fans are still running at about max speed. Is that normal behaviour? At the very least I think my fans are still cooling well enough.
 
longdi said:
yes! i5 2500k can easily overclock to 4.0-4.2ghz on stock voltages, means just change your multiplier in bios and bam! 2ghz faster than the x4 and with lower power consumption!

bf3 seems to run with less problems on 8gb and 64bit. more ram makes insta alt-tab back to desktop, love it!
Thanks. How is the stock cooler on it? I have liquid cooling right now but I'm not sure how it's doing really.

Unfortunately I'm going to have to find a place to install the parts for me since my hands work against me now and I'd be afraid to screw something up since everything is so small lol.
 
intel stock cooler suck for oveclocking. it is just a thin piece of aluminium, like less than half the thickness of the x4 cooler! lol.
 
longdi said:
intel stock cooler suck for oveclocking. it is just a thin piece of aluminium, like less than half the thickness of the x4 cooler! lol.
Ok, hopefully I can find a cooler for cheap on Craigslist or something. I figured it'd be bad for overclocking. Would a liquid cooler that fits my current CPU fit the i5 or are they different connections?
 
Crap, I guess I just have a hot core, not much improvement even with the reapplied thermal compound. Load temps after a stress test (stock) were about 43 51 46 44. Same core that was running hot before too. So disappointing.
 
longdi said:
yes! i5 2500k can easily overclock to 4.0-4.2ghz on stock voltages, means just change your multiplier in bios and bam! 2ghz faster than the x4 and with lower power consumption!

bf3 seems to run with less problems on 8gb and 64bit. more ram makes insta alt-tab back to desktop, love it!

Not really going to make a huge difference, just overclock your Phenom X4 to 3+ Ghz and buy a better GPU. GTX 570/6950 are enough to max the game and keep 60+ FPS. If you have liquid cooling you should be able to hit 4 ghz or at least close to it.
 
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