"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]

Status
Not open for further replies.
Is the best SATA II SSD the Intel 320?

I would like a decent SSD for a SATA II port at a good price.

I was thinking about the Crucial M4 or the C300, but I would rather use that on a new build.
 
claviertekky said:
Is the best SATA II SSD the Intel 320?

I would like a decent SSD for a SATA II port at a good price.

I was thinking about the Crucial M4 or the C300, but I would rather use that on a new build.
Click to expand...
imo overall yes it still is. M4 has slightly better read speed (SATA cap vs ~270) and better write if you move up on capactity.
 
MedIC86 said:
Hazaro you might want to take a look at the plextor SSD's if you havent done already. there very good
Click to expand...
Uses the C300 controller and 32nm Toshiba chips? That is a good start. *You mean the PX-M2P?
Any boot/bsod issues?
Any good reviews of it?
 
Looks like an upgraded M4 which is nice. I value reliability on storage much more and there is no other real test but time so I'll continue to say Intel/M4 until it has had time on the market. Same goes for the Force GT.
 
Hazaro said:
imo overall yes it still is. M4 has slightly better read speed (SATA cap vs ~270) and better write if you move up on capactity.
Click to expand...
The 320 is so expensive though.

I'll wait until next year.
 
As we approach Black Friday what are the chances that we see good deals on graphics cards? My old one died and I need a new one, looking at a GTX 560 or so.
 
I can't believe the prices of HDDs. Insane.

ChoklitReign said:
http://www.engadget.com/2011/11/04/ocz-expects-to-ship-cheap-tlc-solid-state-drives-in-early-2012/

What do you think of OCZ introducing cheaper SSDs next years? Would the company still be unreliable? How long until Intel and Crucial make TLC SSDs?
Click to expand...

OCZ has employed shady practices and have had major issues in the last few years. They had a chance to redeem themselves with Vertex 3, but they've flopped. SSDs remain a luxury item, and as cheap as their new drives may be, they'll still be considered a luxury item. If you're putting in the extra cash to get an SSD, might as well spend a few dollars more for something that's going to be reliable.
 
n0n44m said:
what 570 is that? The chips are all good clockers but the earlier stock/reference PCBs don't really dig high voltages that much. I mean I run 1.2v on my (watercooled) 480 everytime I play BF3 but I wouldn't do it with a reference 570 :p
Click to expand...

It's an EVGA SC 570. I might just go to 1.1v and see if I can hit 950. Or just play it safe and stick to 900. At those speeds it's on par with a GTX 580 which is way more power than I need!
 
So I was wondering. Planning to build a new PC soon, and I still have a legit (OEM) DVD-copy of Windows Vista 32-bit. However, my new PC will probably have Windows 7 64-bit.

Will I be able to buy the cheaper upgrade-version of Windows 7? Can I use that OEM-copy of Windows Vista to upgrade? And finally, would I first need to install Windows Vista on that new PC, or can I just enter my DVD-key in the Windows 7 installer?
 
TheExodu5 said:
OCZ has employed shady practices and have had major issues in the last few years. They had a chance to redeem themselves with Vertex 3, but they've flopped. SSDs remain a luxury item, and as cheap as their new drives may be, they'll still be considered a luxury item. If you're putting in the extra cash to get an SSD, might as well spend a few dollars more for something that's going to be reliable.
Click to expand...
I'm tired of this quote. People are turned off by the price of SSDs, not because they're relative unreliable. And if OCZ is without a doubt the worst SSD producer, why are they the most innovative? (see Revo drives and new TLCs)
 
Any recommendations for cheap pc speakers (under $35)?


@OP: The first post says "7/14/2011: Attention: Reports are coming that some Intel 320 SSD's run into an "8MB bug". You can guess what happens to the data. No known affected percentage or fix at this time."
You may want to update it since Intel released the firmware to fix it a while ago.
 
Thomper said:
So I was wondering. Planning to build a new PC soon, and I still have a legit (OEM) DVD-copy of Windows Vista 32-bit. However, my new PC will probably have Windows 7 64-bit.

Will I be able to buy the cheaper upgrade-version of Windows 7? Can I use that OEM-copy of Windows Vista to upgrade? And finally, would I first need to install Windows Vista on that new PC, or can I just enter my DVD-key in the Windows 7 installer?
Click to expand...
You would need to install Vista first, but honestly you don't even need to do that, all you need is the upgrade.

Install the upgrade using the custom option, don't put in a product key. Windows will fully install. Once it's done, from inside Windows, run the disc again and this time choose to upgrade. Put in your product key this time and activate online, done.

This is how I did my Win7 install, and apparently Microsoft endorses it for whatever reason.
 
ChoklitReign said:
I'm tired of this quote. People are turned off by the price of SSDs, not because they're relative unreliable. And if OCZ is without a doubt the worst SSD producer, why are they the most innovative? (see Revo drives and new TLCs)
Click to expand...
I love OCZ and their innovation, but I don't buy their products because they seem shoddy. Pretty simple.
celcius said:
Any recommendations for cheap pc speakers (under $35)?


@OP: The first post says "7/14/2011: Attention: Reports are coming that some Intel 320 SSD's run into an "8MB bug". You can guess what happens to the data. No known affected percentage or fix at this time."
You may want to update it since Intel released the firmware to fix it a while ago.
Click to expand...
Good call. I wrote down to add 2 articles today as well.
 
chaosblade said:
You would need to install Vista first, but honestly you don't even need to do that, all you need is the upgrade.

Install the upgrade using the custom option, don't put in a product key. Windows will fully install. Once it's done, from inside Windows, run the disc again and this time choose to upgrade. Put in your product key this time and activate online, done.

This is how I did my Win7 install, and apparently Microsoft endorses it for whatever reason.
Click to expand...
This is how I did mine as well(thanks to this thread), works like a charm.
 
I'm having a strange problem at the moment. I was installing another case fan on my HAF-X and the case fell over on accident. There didn't seem to be any damage to anything, but after I booted back up, I noticed that my computer was really fucking loud. Turns out my graphics card (Radeon 6870) has decided to spin it's fan at 4000+ rpm ALL OF THE TIME. It doesn't seem to affecting anything performance wise, but it is loud as fuck. My fan profiles in Msi Afterburner don't work anymore either. Should I be worried?
 
Dad sent me a Xonar 7.1 DX.

Popped it in, but the sound level didn't even go to the halfway point. On headphones, it sounds so soft, and on speaker, I have to put it on maximum to even hear it clearly.

And now it just started popping and hissing everywhere. I did a soundtest in Skype, and it was like nails on a chalkboard.

Am I screwed with this card?
 
HP_Wuvcraft said:
Dad sent me a Xonar 7.1 DX.

Popped it in, but the sound level didn't even go to the halfway point. On headphones, it sounds so soft, and on speaker, I have to put it on maximum to even hear it clearly.

And now it just started popping and hissing everywhere. I did a soundtest in Skype, and it was like nails on a chalkboard.

Am I screwed with this card?
Click to expand...
RMA, ask for 4 Xonar DG's back :)
 
Ok guys, just had a really weird issue with my new build...

Everything went smoothly until I tried to turn it on. It'd stay on for 1-2 seconds and shut off. Crap. Took out everything and double checked it. Nope. Went step by step until everything was disconnected and I had the board out, still nothing. Reseated CPU, nothing.

Finally I took out the RAM. It stayed on! Ok... Tried the RAM again. Nope. Tried different RAM. Nope, turns off. Finally I switched the RAM from the left two slots to the right 2... works fine!

Conclusion: No matter what, the system won't stay on if ANY RAM is inserted in the left two slots, but the right two slots work fine. Wtf? I'm installing Windows and will stress test, but should I assume the mobo has problems and should drive this fucking thing 50 miles one way back to Microcenter for a replacement?

Smh.
 
claviertekky said:
Is the best SATA II SSD the Intel 320?

I would like a decent SSD for a SATA II port at a good price.

I was thinking about the Crucial M4 or the C300, but I would rather use that on a new build.
Click to expand...

No SATA3 space, or looking for something cheaper?

I sure hope this HDD shortage resolves itself by the release of Ivy Bridge at the latest.
 
BoobPhysics101 said:
Ok guys, just had a really weird issue with my new build...

Everything went smoothly until I tried to turn it on. It'd stay on for 1-2 seconds and shut off. Crap. Took out everything and double checked it. Nope. Went step by step until everything was disconnected and I had the board out, still nothing. Reseated CPU, nothing.

Finally I took out the RAM. It stayed on! Ok... Tried the RAM again. Nope. Tried different RAM. Nope, turns off. Finally I switched the RAM from the left two slots to the right 2... works fine!

Conclusion: No matter what, the system won't stay on if ANY RAM is inserted in the left two slots, but the right two slots work fine. Wtf? I'm installing Windows and will stress test, but should I assume the mobo has problems and should drive this fucking thing 50 miles one way back to Microcenter for a replacement?

Smh.
Click to expand...
Right slots are default on most motherboards now. But that shouldn't be what is causing your problem. I'd run memtest of course, then update your BIOS and see if that fixes the problem.
HP_Wuvcraft said:
DG? Okay. I've learned to effing trust ComputerGAF.
Click to expand...
Xonar DG is a lower end part, but it has an onboard amp. However, it is PCI so make sure you have one of those slots available.

Easier to get a Xonar DG and something than try to get a Xonar ST or STX probably.
Or RMA, sell the card you get back and spend $30 on a Xonar DG.
 
BAD NEWS :(

I am surfing the net, when my comp just shuts off.
I turn it back on, it starts for a sec then dies.
Try again, same thing.

I wait about 10 minutes, turn it on again, this time it makes it about 8 secs and DIES.

I open it up, fan no longer blowing in my power supply...

Did my power supply just fry? Is there other things I should check/be worried about?

PC building novice here.
 
CrocMother said:
BAD NEWS :(

I am surfing the net, when my comp just shuts off.
I turn it back on, it starts for a sec then dies.
Try again, same thing.

I wait about 10 minutes, turn it on again, this time it makes it about 8 secs and DIES.

I open it up, fan no longer blowing in my power supply...

Did my power supply just fry? Is there other things I should check/be worried about?

PC building novice here.
Click to expand...
**Oh PSU is not moving. Blow some air into it (remove heat) and watch it as you start the PC, if the fan stays dead then most likely PSU. Safe move would be to just replace it if you are sure.
Also, some high end models (AX and X series) will have the fan stay passive. So post your model.

--

Sounds like temp (overheating) issue.
Open the side panel / case and get some airflow in there.
Download HWMonitor and check your temps. Probably CPU is overheating due to poor contact. More likely than PSU at least.
If it is temp remount the heatsink.

Also download memtest 86+, burn to CD, run 15 minutes, overnight if possible.
 
Hazaro said:
Right slots are default on most motherboards now. But that shouldn't be what is causing your problem. I'd run memtest of course, then update your BIOS and see if that fixes the problem.

Xonar DG is a lower end part, but it has an onboard amp. However, it is PCI so make sure you have one of those slots available.

Easier to get a Xonar DG and something than try to get a Xonar ST or STX probably.
Or RMA, sell the card you get back and spend $30 on a Xonar DG.
Click to expand...

I'll update the BIOS and see if that fixes it.

Also, here's a pic of my install... can anyone rate my wiretuck-fu?
1320456700842.jpg


I spent a solid extra hour just wire-tucking and making everything look clean.
 
Hey guys, I'm getting really close to buying all the parts to make my first computer. I'm wondering though if I should wait for the Black Friday/Cyber Monday sales since I've already waited this long.

Do any of you know if there are usually big sales on computer hardware and Newegg or other retailers this time of year or is that more just for simple electronics?
 
cartman414 said:
No SATA3 space, or looking for something cheaper?

I sure hope this HDD shortage resolves itself by the release of Ivy Bridge at the latest.
Click to expand...
Cheaper and effective.

Doesn't seem like I have many options.

The low-end ones don't seem attractive in terms of performance and reliability.
 
BoobPhysics101 said:
Ok guys, just had a really weird issue with my new build...

Everything went smoothly until I tried to turn it on. It'd stay on for 1-2 seconds and shut off. Crap. Took out everything and double checked it. Nope. Went step by step until everything was disconnected and I had the board out, still nothing. Reseated CPU, nothing.

Finally I took out the RAM. It stayed on! Ok... Tried the RAM again. Nope. Tried different RAM. Nope, turns off. Finally I switched the RAM from the left two slots to the right 2... works fine!

Conclusion: No matter what, the system won't stay on if ANY RAM is inserted in the left two slots, but the right two slots work fine. Wtf? I'm installing Windows and will stress test, but should I assume the mobo has problems and should drive this fucking thing 50 miles one way back to Microcenter for a replacement?

Smh.
Click to expand...

If you have no dual channel, I would return it.
Also, great job on the cable management. What case is it?
 
MAB128 said:
If you have no dual channel, I would return it.
Also, great job on the cable management. What case is it?
Click to expand...

Yep, no dual channel, even after a BIOS update. I'm pretty annoyed, but hopefully a new mobo will fix that right up.

It's a CoolerMaster HAF-912. Amazing case, especially for only $55! I had no idea it had everything exactly the way I want it, so glad I skipped over the Antec 300 for this beauty.


HP_Wuvcraft said:
That is a nice, nice tuck job.

I need to tuck. Right now, it looks like a dreaded hairpiece in there.
Click to expand...

Thank you sir. I call it 'cable knitting' because it's tedious as hell but the end result is very nice. My old case looked like a cable-bomb went off inside, so it was important to get this one looking nice.
 
BoobPhysics101 said:
Yep, no dual channel, even after a BIOS update. I'm pretty annoyed, but hopefully a new mobo will fix that right up.

It's a CoolerMaster HAF-912. Amazing case, especially for only $55! I had no idea it had everything exactly the way I want it, so glad I skipped over the Antec 300 for this beauty.




Thank you sir. I call it 'cable knitting' because it's tedious as hell but the end result is very nice. My old case looked like a cable-bomb went off inside, so it was important to get this one looking nice.
Click to expand...

If you have a 120mm fan you can do what I did and put it in the 5.25 bays. Intake on the top so the CPU fan gets more air. I cut the foam sheet that came with my motherboard and mounted it with some foam strips. Holds it in place and there's no vibration/noise.

iJJ40lkazeJl.jpg
 
chaosblade said:
If you have a 120mm fan you can do what I did and put it in the 5.25 bays. Intake on the top so the CPU fan gets more air. I cut the foam sheet that came with my motherboard and mounted it with some foam strips. Holds it in place and there's no vibration/noise.

iJJ40lkazeJl.jpg
Click to expand...

Perfect, I've been wanting to do that but wasn't quite sure how to mount it! I have two front intake fans (120mm) but they're blowing air through the middle/bottom of the case, and the 5.25" bays are just sitting almost totally empty. Going to do that tomorrow when I wake up, use the foam and some double-sided tape. Thanks again for the idea.
 
So guys I been considering into upgrade my machine a bit to be able to play new pc games and stuff. I never been a big fan of pc gaming to be honest but I wanna give it a try. I basically want to run newer games decently without having to spend a shitload of money so heres my current specs:

Code: 
Software:                                               Windows 7 Ultimate
Case:                                                   Antec Nine Hundred Black Steel ATX Mid Tower 
Motherboard:
      CPU Type                                          DualCore Intel Pentium E2160, 1800 MHz (9 x 200)
      Motherboard Name                                  Asus P5K  (3 PCI, 2 PCI-E x1, 2 PCI-E x16, 4 DDR2 DIMM, Audio, Gigabit LAN, IEEE-1394)
      Motherboard Chipset                               Intel Bearlake P35
System Memory:
      DIMM1: Patriot Memory PSD21G8002                  1 GB DDR2-800 DDR2 SDRAM  (5-5-5-16 @ 400 MHz)  (4-4-4-11 @ 266 MHz)  (3-3-3-8 @ 200 MHz)
      DIMM2: Corsair XMS2 CM2X1024-6400            
Display:
      Video Adapter                                     ATI Radeon HD 4800 Series  (1024 MB)
      3D Accelerator                                    ATI Radeon HD 4870 (RV770)
      Monitor                                           Samsung SyncMaster 2333HD (Digital)  [23" LCD]  (HVGQA00568)
Power Supply:                                           Antec 450W (too lazy to check out the exact model)
HDD:                                                    Maxtor 500GB


Budget: 300-350USD
Country: Puerto Rico (I can ebay just fine, or anything that takes paypal without CC)
Main Use: Gaming
Monitor Resolution: 1080p and I aim to play at that resolution no less, thanks.
Games To play: I love the free roaming kinda games, so I intend to get from Steam everything that has to be with it: GTA4, RDR, SR, Skyrim, I'm up for FPS genre as well.
When will I build: A week or so after I get the recommendation of the parts listed.
Will you be overclocking?: Maybe (If it means I will be getting "High Graphics" settings on a game)

I know I been running the machine at 800mhz, I want to get it running at 1333mhz, I need to change the processor, the ram, maybe the graphics card?, maybe the psu?

Heres what I been thinking to get for it:

CPU: Intel E8400 3.0ghz dual-core. (It's 1333mhz)
GPU: EVGA nVidia GeForce GTX460 GTX 460 1GB PCI-E (I'm not sure if I need this, looks sexy to me though and low temperatures on load I read <3)
RAM: No clue, I need 4gb of cheap DDR2 RAM that I could overclock to 1333mhz
PSU: No clue either, I guess it depends if I'm going to OC the CPU too (which I wasn't trying to).

I have only been thinking about OCing the RAM (so the machine runs at 1333mhz without any bottleneck), one thing it gets me disturbed is the excess of heat my pc makes that is even worse lately that I moved. My room is twice smaller then it used to be and I live in the tropic so is hot enough already. So what you guys think? What would you recommend me to get?
 
Paging NVIDIA-GAF

Has anyone figured out where the new framerate-cap feature is in the latest drivers? They were touting it prior to its release but I haven't heard anybody even mention it.
 
NIghtWolf said:
So guys I been considering into upgrade my machine a bit to be able to play new pc games and stuff. I never been a big fan of pc gaming to be honest but I wanna give it a try. I basically want to run newer games decently without having to spend a shitload of money so heres my current specs:

Code: 
Software:                                               Windows 7 Ultimate
Case:                                                   Antec Nine Hundred Black Steel ATX Mid Tower 
Motherboard:
      CPU Type                                          DualCore Intel Pentium E2160, 1800 MHz (9 x 200)
      Motherboard Name                                  Asus P5K  (3 PCI, 2 PCI-E x1, 2 PCI-E x16, 4 DDR2 DIMM, Audio, Gigabit LAN, IEEE-1394)
      Motherboard Chipset                               Intel Bearlake P35
System Memory:
      DIMM1: Patriot Memory PSD21G8002                  1 GB DDR2-800 DDR2 SDRAM  (5-5-5-16 @ 400 MHz)  (4-4-4-11 @ 266 MHz)  (3-3-3-8 @ 200 MHz)
      DIMM2: Corsair XMS2 CM2X1024-6400            
Display:
      Video Adapter                                     ATI Radeon HD 4800 Series  (1024 MB)
      3D Accelerator                                    ATI Radeon HD 4870 (RV770)
      Monitor                                           Samsung SyncMaster 2333HD (Digital)  [23" LCD]  (HVGQA00568)
Power Supply:                                           Antec 450W (too lazy to check out the exact model)
HDD:                                                    Maxtor 500GB


Budget: 300-350USD
Country: Puerto Rico (I can ebay just fine, or anything that takes paypal without CC)
Main Use: Gaming
Monitor Resolution: 1080p and I aim to play at that resolution no less, thanks.
Games To play: I love the free roaming kinda games, so I intend to get from Steam everything that has to be with it: GTA4, RDR, SR, Skyrim, I'm up for FPS genre as well.
When will I build: A week or so after I get the recommendation of the parts listed.
Will you be overclocking?: Maybe (If it means I will be getting "High Graphics" settings on a game)

I know I been running the machine at 800mhz, I want to get it running at 1333mhz, I need to change the processor, the ram, maybe the graphics card?, maybe the psu?

Heres what I been thinking to get for it:

CPU: Intel E8400 3.0ghz dual-core. (It's 1333mhz)
GPU: EVGA nVidia GeForce GTX460 GTX 460 1GB PCI-E (I'm not sure if I need this, looks sexy to me though and low temperatures on load I read <3)
RAM: No clue, I need 4gb of cheap DDR2 RAM that I could overclock to 1333mhz
PSU: No clue either, I guess it depends if I'm going to OC the CPU too (which I wasn't trying to).

I have only been thinking about OCing the RAM (so the machine runs at 1333mhz without any bottleneck), one thing it gets me disturbed is the excess of heat my pc makes that is even worse lately that I moved. My room is twice smaller then it used to be and I live in the tropic so is hot enough already. So what you guys think? What would you recommend me to get?
Click to expand...

BIOSTAR TH67B 1155 motherboard
4GB DDR3 RAM
i5 2500 CPU

Keep everything else. You'll have a great CPU that will last you for years (even without OCing it since it's locked) unlike that 8400 which is more or less a minimum-requirement-level CPU now.

PSU should be able to handle that load unless it's one of Antec's really low end ones. 4870 isn't ideal these days, but it should run most games fine even if you have to sacrifice some settings/resolution. You can upgrade that down the line when you have some money to put toward it, and maybe the PSU if necessary.



But realistically you're not going to be playing at 1080p, high settings with a $300-$350 budget coming off a PC where the only things that are really worth reusing are the case and maybe the PSU (depending on what you buy with it).
 
So I want to get a new computer for Skyrim. Mind you, I have both a 360 and a PS3, so this is solely for better graphics and the capability of using mods. I know nothing about building a computer, so I'd really prefer to get this pre-built somewhere. Can this be done in an 800 or lower dollar price range?


Budget: $800 USD or lower, USA
Main Use: Gaming, General Use
Monitor Resolution: 1080p
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Skyrim. SKKKKKYYYRIIIM! Also Diablo 3 whenever it comes out.
Are reusing any parts?: I plan on having this built from the ground up, so no.
When will you build?:Is it even possible to get this by 11/11/11? If so...by then!
Will you be overclocking?: I don't even know what that means. So yes.
 
Hazaro said:
**Oh PSU is not moving. Blow some air into it (remove heat) and watch it as you start the PC, if the fan stays dead then most likely PSU. Safe move would be to just replace it if you are sure.
Also, some high end models (AX and X series) will have the fan stay passive. So post your model.

--

Sounds like temp (overheating) issue.
Open the side panel / case and get some airflow in there.
Download HWMonitor and check your temps. Probably CPU is overheating due to poor contact. More likely than PSU at least.
If it is temp remount the heatsink.

Also download memtest 86+, burn to CD, run 15 minutes, overnight if possible.
Click to expand...

I don't think it is overheating because it is pretty cold in my room. The model is PSU CORSAIR|430W CMPSU-430CXV2 R
 
Corky said:
Paging NVIDIA-GAF

Has anyone figured out where the new framerate-cap feature is in the latest drivers? They were touting it prior to its release but I haven't heard anybody even mention it.
Click to expand...
lol that was the first thing I searched for after updating but it just isn't in the drivers.
 
Not to sound insensitive about the situation or anything, but are hard drive prices expected to remain high for a while? I wonder if Black Friday will see any good sales.
 
gogojira said:
Not to sound insensitive about the situation or anything, but are hard drive prices expected to remain high for a while? I wonder if Black Friday will see any good sales.
Click to expand...

I heard they will probably remain this high for maybe somewhere around 6 months.
 
Ouch, that's painful. I'm ready to build a new PC but paying double for a HDD is killing my motivation. I guess I could settle for something smaller than I'd like while prices are so high.
 
So I finally finished my Gaming / HTPC rig, but I'm stuck at the final point: finding a GOOD wireless keyboard and mouse for it.

This is going to be used about 12 feet away fom the PC. Can anyone recommend a wireless keyboard and mouse with strong connectivity at that distance? The one I have now (Microsoft Wireless Desktop) conks out at anything over 4-5 ft.

Any help would be appreciated...
 
Guys, I've had my current pc for almost 2 years now, it's been awesome to me so far but I think I'd like to try to overclock it a bit. I seem to have room temperature wise (none of the cores on my i5-860 ever get past 35 degrees, usually they are 25 ish) but I'm not 100% how to go about it.

I've read a bit around the net and it seems like I up the voltage on the memory through the bios? My memory is 4 sticks of DD3 1600 with 9-9-9-24 timing, 2 gigs each for a total of 8.

My biggest concern is a lack of total wattage to do much , I've got a 650watt power supply giving power to a total of 5 fans (2 of which are on the noctua cooling unit), 2 5870 cards , 1 hard drive, 1 dvd drive. Is there free software available that will track how much total power my system is consuming on load ?

If it's possible I want to overclock to 3.2 ghz , it's not a huge increase but it's my goal. Any help or links to help would be much appreciated, I'm sure some of you know a helluva lot more than I do about this issue and can assist me in wading through the bullshit.

My motherboard is a gigabyte UD4P if that further assists.

So thanks in advance.
 
CrocMother said:
I don't think it is overheating because it is pretty cold in my room. The model is PSU CORSAIR|430W CMPSU-430CXV2 R
Click to expand...
It can overheat because there is no airflow, or perhaps something came loose, etc.
The symptoms sound like a possible heat buildup issue. As you said if the fan is not turning, RMA time.
TerminalDogma said:
So I want to get a new computer for Skyrim. Mind you, I have both a 360 and a PS3, so this is solely for better graphics and the capability of using mods. I know nothing about building a computer, so I'd really prefer to get this pre-built somewhere. Can this be done in an 800 or lower dollar price range?


Budget: $800 USD or lower, USA
Main Use: Gaming, General Use
Monitor Resolution: 1080p
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Skyrim. SKKKKKYYYRIIIM! Also Diablo 3 whenever it comes out.
Are reusing any parts?: I plan on having this built from the ground up, so no.
When will you build?:Is it even possible to get this by 11/11/11? If so...by then!
Will you be overclocking?: I don't even know what that means. So yes.
Click to expand...
I'm sure you expected this answer but... absolutely nothing on the market comes close to the Enhanced($845) build in terms of power, quality, or value.
I'd suggest taking a little bit of time to watch one of the building videos in the OP, it is very straight forward if you pre-watch an assembly how-to and read your damn manuals.
You can drop the CM 212 and get a cheaper case to bring the base computer under $800.
Hard drive you will need to go out to a regular store (like bestbuy) and buy an HDD there. I don't think their prices have gone up as much, a 1TB or 640GB will be fine.

If you are really SET on a prebuilt:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883227371
or
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16883147971

iBuyPower is slightly faster, but the 460 and 560 are the same card, one is just overclocked more.
Pachinko said:
Guys, I've had my current pc for almost 2 years now, it's been awesome to me so far but I think I'd like to try to overclock it a bit. I seem to have room temperature wise (none of the cores on my i5-860 ever get past 35 degrees, usually they are 25 ish) but I'm not 100% how to go about it.

I've read a bit around the net and it seems like I up the voltage on the memory through the bios? My memory is 4 sticks of DD3 1600 with 9-9-9-24 timing, 2 gigs each for a total of 8.

My biggest concern is a lack of total wattage to do much , I've got a 650watt power supply giving power to a total of 5 fans (2 of which are on the noctua cooling unit), 2 5870 cards , 1 hard drive, 1 dvd drive. Is there free software available that will track how much total power my system is consuming on load ?

If it's possible I want to overclock to 3.2 ghz , it's not a huge increase but it's my goal. Any help or links to help would be much appreciated, I'm sure some of you know a helluva lot more than I do about this issue and can assist me in wading through the bullshit.

My motherboard is a gigabyte UD4P if that further assists.

So thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
Have an aftermarket cooler? Just look up any i5-750 guide to OC.

Safest way is to spend $20 on a Kill-A-Watt and estimate your PC's power draw * efficiency (usually 75-85%). e.g. 500W wall draw with an 80PLUS PSU = 400W load.

You probably have a little bit of safe headroom, but 5870's are going to eat a lot of power.
Try: http://www.thermaltake.outervision.com/
 
My money finally entered my account and cleared. I have ordered all the parts needed.

Purchased from Ebuyer: Intel Core i5 2500K, NZXT Phantom White, KFA2 GTX 560Ti EX OC, Philips E-line 246EL2SB LCD LED 23.6" HDMI Monitor.

Purchased from Amazon: Asus Sabertooth p67 1155, 8gb corsair vengeance.


I unfortunately missed the next day delivery from ebuyer but i am expecting it first thing monday.

I have had a major problem with amazon. I first placed the order on wed (2nd) but my money was not cleared on the account i used.. when it finally did clear i edited the payment details on amazon the next day and retried. I recieved an email saying thank you, i will be billed shortly. I also checked my online bank account statement and seen that 2 transactions had been made equaling the price of the mobo and ram...

The next day, friday the 4th.. i check my order to see that they are STILL waiting on payment with a notice advising me to edit my debit card details. I verified that the details were correct, checked my bank account and verified that the 2 outgoing payments were made and then called amazon customer service to explain the problem.. A rep told me that the payments were not made and that i was to speak to my bank.. after repeatedly trying to make sense of this mess i snapped and demanded to speak to someone who could fix the problem. She put me on hold to then come back 2 minutes later and tell me that infact, the payment 'may' have been made. I questioned her to get the reply "I can confirm that your payment has been confirmed" i thank her and leave it at that.

Today, I check my order and see that the mobo has been dispatched but AGAIN they are waiting on me editing payment details so they can charge and dispatch the ram. My banks website is down for maintence so i could not go look at the 2 seperate payments i had already seen that equalled the price of the items but i know that they are there. I went to the cash machine to get a mini statement and my balance still looks like what it would if i payed for ram. I phone them to only get told the same thing, that they have not recieved payment and the only thing they can do is try to charge again. (i had the exact amount of money needed for purchase in the account, if i have mysteriously lost the money and they arnt refunding then i can't purchase again).

I am at my wits end, really annoyed that i have to wait a couple days to get word from the bank aswell.

If anyone has any advice they can offer as to dealing with this horribly unncesasary problem, please do share.


Edit - http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-15606707

RBS and NatWest customers have been unable to check accounts online because of problems caused by maintenance work, the Royal Bank of Scotland has said.

Problems arose after the maintenance work went wrong and meant account balances were not updated overnight.

Some accounts have not been credited when they should have been and there have been problems for some customers making withdrawals from cash machines.

In a statement, the bank "apologised for any inconvenience caused".
Click to expand...

Hopefully they will fix my account balance sharpish.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

NeoGAF Digital Key Giveaway Thread - Read Instructions in OP
Staff  3 4 5 6 7
321
3K
MLSabre replied
The Last of Us Part II - PC Version | Review Thread
Community Platform 
25
2K
viveks86 replied
Alien: Rogue Incursion - Part One: Evolved Edition - Reviews Thread (The Non-VR version of the game)
7
152
IbizaPocholo replied
Naughty Dog And Nixxes On The PC Port Of The Last Of Us Part II: “We Take The Steam Deck Very, Very Seriously”
12
864
MiguelItUp replied
Digital Foundry: The Last of Us Part 2 PC Review - We're Disappointed - Analysis + Optimised Settings
7 8 9 10 11
540
30K
yamaci17 replied
Top Bottom