luiztfc said:So, as per you guys suggestion, I bought a Datavac and, hell, this thing blows!
However, is it normal for it to leak air through the front and back ends? For comparison, check the two pictures below:
chaosblade said:BIOSTAR TH67B 1155 motherboard
4GB DDR3 RAM
i5 2500 CPU
Keep everything else. You'll have a great CPU that will last you for years (even without OCing it since it's locked) unlike that 8400 which is more or less a minimum-requirement-level CPU now.
PSU should be able to handle that load unless it's one of Antec's really low end ones. 4870 isn't ideal these days, but it should run most games fine even if you have to sacrifice some settings/resolution. You can upgrade that down the line when you have some money to put toward it, and maybe the PSU if necessary.
But realistically you're not going to be playing at 1080p, high settings with a $300-$350 budget coming off a PC where the only things that are really worth reusing are the case and maybe the PSU (depending on what you buy with it).
Add in a 560Ti or 6950 to what I posted above and you should be good to go, those will run you somewhere between $200-$250 USD. I think the 560Ti uses less power, so you might be able to keep using that PSU as long as it's a pretty decent 450W one. If you can post the power specs or a picture of them that would give a good idea.NIghtWolf said:Oh wow that sucks :/ what else would I need for 1080p high settings, Lets say Im using those parts what graphics card and psu maybe (I wasn't thinking about the HDD either I should get a SSD even though I was thinking on doing some raid arrays, this is a factor for the free roam type of games).
Budget: 200-300USD more, so 600USD max total.
I figured I could be getting some money selling out w/e I'm not gonna be using anymore.
chaosblade said:Add in a 560Ti or 6950 to what I posted above and you should be good to go, those will run you somewhere between $200-$250 USD. I think the 560Ti uses less power, so you might be able to keep using that PSU as long as it's a pretty decent 450W one. If you can post the power specs or a picture of them that would give a good idea.
Don't bother with a HDD since the prices are jacked up due to the flooding, yours is probably pretty slow but it's just not worth paying the current premium since you're on a tight budget.
opticalmace said:Trying to decide how to set up Ubuntu and Win 7.
I have:
-120GB SSD
-640GB fast HDD
-2TB slow HDD (backups/media)
I use Ubuntu for work and have about 80GB of data. Will have more coming, but I only really work on a small portion of it at once (20GB?).
Is there a way I can get both Ubuntu/Win7 on the SSD for speed, and use the 640GB drive for Win7 programs and Ubuntu data?
Or should I just give Ubuntu the whole SSD and put Win 7 on the HDD?
Thanks.
Thanks. Would you put /home on the SSD then for Linux? And just leave the additional data on the 640GB?gokieks said:If I was using both on a consistent basis on the same machine, I would just install both to SSD (with size allocated to each depending on need, probably more for Windows), and then split the 640GB HDD into two partitions, one for Windows and one for Linux and install/put the programs/data that you don't need SSD speeds for there.
Hazaro said:Xonar DG is a lower end part, but it has an onboard amp. However, it is PCI so make sure you have one of those slots available.
Easier to get a Xonar DG and something than try to get a Xonar ST or STX probably.
Or RMA, sell the card you get back and spend $30 on a Xonar DG.
opticalmace said:Thanks. Would you put /home on the SSD then for Linux? And just leave the additional data on the 640GB?
Also do you know how many GB Win7 needs for boot? The rest of the SSD will go to Linux.
That's quite helpful by the way, thanks. Just need to decide on partition sizes now.
I think 95% of them are awful, but there are 1 or 3 good ones. I might be behind the times on this.MisterAnderson said:Are those USB wireless network thumb drive things just as effective as using a wireless network card attached to an antenna? My only option with my PC is wireless internet since my room is no where near the router in my house, but I'd like to free up a PCI slot which is currently being used by a wireless network card.
I wanna stay around $700.snoopen said:you should be getting a 560ti or 6950 for that kind of money, what is your budget? read the OP.
I use this works great through a couple walls, linksys ae1000MisterAnderson said:Are those USB wireless network thumb drive things just as effective as using a wireless network card attached to an antenna? My only option with my PC is wireless internet since my room is no where near the router in my house, but I'd like to free up a PCI slot which is currently being used by a wireless network card.
It's about 10% better but costs 30% more. Get it if you game at 1920x1200+ (preferably 2560x1440 minimum) or do two monitor gaming. Outlier stuff like metro or BF3 or Crysis or The Witcher 2 still won't be able to be maxed out properly (little shaky on bf3, not 100% sure), but then again hardly anything will.JJBro One said:How does the 560ti compare to the 570?
HP_Wuvcraft said:I got my DX working.
I'm not sure what I'm going to do yet. When my NewEgg gift certificate comes to me this week, I'm going to look at my options.
JJBro One said:How does the 560ti compare to the 570?
Yep. Hazaro is a great poster.CrocMother said:Hazaro, whenever I have had a question you always make sure to answer.
And it's not just me you help.
I don't know what your occupation is, or what your life is like, but just letting you know from the point of view of a stranger on the internet I think you are a remarkable individual.
The world would be a better place if more people were like you.
MisterAnderson said:Are those USB wireless network thumb drive things just as effective as using a wireless network card attached to an antenna? My only option with my PC is wireless internet since my room is no where near the router in my house, but I'd like to free up a PCI slot which is currently being used by a wireless network card.
What driver stack are you using?Tambini said:Sorry I don't know where else to put this.
I'm trying to play Modern Warfare 2 but I'm getting really crappy framerates, drops to 30 outside even with No AA and Shadows Off. It dropped to 26 when I went through some smoke.
I've looked at benchmarks for my card and they all say around 100fps avg.
Don't know what is causing the bad fps.
Specs:
AMD Phenom II X4 965 3.4ghz
GTX 460 1GB OC 825Mhz
4GB RAM
http://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/cc957625.aspx said:This Stop message usually occurs after the installation of faulty hardware or in the event of failure of installed hardware (usually related to defective RAM, either main memory, L2 RAM cache, or video RAM).
Omikaru said:Warning, long post ahead, but if someone could read this and help me troubleshoot the problem, I'd be eternally grateful. Feel free to skip the history, since it only adds context. I'll describe the current (and similar) problem below.
Here's my specs
Intel Core i5 2500K 3.3GHz
Asus P8Z68-V PRO Z68
Asus GTX 560 Ti DirectCU II 1GB Factory OC'd to 830mhz
Samsung HD204UI Spinpoint F4
Corsair 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 1600MHz Vengeance Memory Kit CL9 1.5V
Antec TruePower Trio 650W PSU
Bit of history
I had a game crashing problem a couple of weeks ago:
Dead Rising 2: Crash between 10 seconds and an hour.
Deus Ex HR: Crash within 20 minutes most of the time, sometimes would go for an hour or so.
Civilization V: Once lasted me two hours, but every other time crashed within an hour.
Mafia II: Game lasted about 40 minutes, and regularly crashed on the in-game benchmark.
The Witcher 2: Crashed to launcher without error within 20 minutes.
3DMark11: Wouldn't even finish the demo + benchmark.
Heaven 2.5: Crashed within 25 minutes.
After running lots of tests I found through Prime95 that my CPU and/or motherboard was faulty. I returned them to eBuyer, who found both were faulty, so I got a replacement. Now when I run Prime95, I don't get any errors, so I think my CPU+motherboard are good.
The current problem
However, I'm still getting game crashes to desktop like in the old config, suggesting something else was (as well as the CPU & mobo) causing the problem.
It's seemingly random, and can happen within seconds or even a couple of hours.
Though so far no benchmarking software like Heaven 2.5, Furmark or 3DMark11 has failed on this build. I ran Furmark for about 30-40 minutes, and Heaven was for an hour.
On the new build, I've only tested out Deus Ex HR and Sonic Generations. Both crash to desktop, and the cause is often ntoskrnl.exe + a nVidia DLL of some sort.
I also had two BSODs, one whilst updating Steam, and another whilst verifying the gamecache on Sonic Generations, just to be sure that wasn't it.
I'm not sure what the first BSOD was, since I don't have the logs at hand, but the second one was: PAGE_FAULT_IN_NONPAGED_AREA
I looked this up, and this is what I got:
It also mentions that it could be "buggy system service" (but this is a fresh Windows 7 install, so I'm not so sure...) or antivirus (not installed yet, since I've been testing the machine for faults), or a corrupted NTFS system volume (however, I ran CHKDSK a few weeks ago when I first had problems to rule out HDD issues, and that came back all clear).
I'm ruling out the following as causing the problem:
CPU (passed Prime95 + it's a replacement for a previously faulty one)
Motherboard (replacement for previously faulty -- unless they're widespread, I doubt this is the issue)
Both are brand new replacements from two faulty parts. The chances of me getting faulty parts again is slim, plus the CPU passed Prime95.
I'm unsure about:
PSU
I'm unsure about the PSU, as I'm using an Antec TruePower Trio 650W PSU in this config, but in the last one I was using a HiperM1000 1000W PSU. That one worked fine in my older PC, but since I sold it on I don't have access to that PSU anymore.
From past experience, the Antec PSU is good, and I have no reason to believe it's faulty (the only reason I replaced it is because my Radeon 4870X2 in my previous machine required more juice than my 650W PSU gave), but it's been dormant for just over two years.
Either way, with both PSUs I'm getting the same crashes, so until I've ruled out everything else I'm inclined to believe it's not the cause.
I'm pretty sure it's either:
GPU
HDD (passed CHKDSK)
RAM (passed memtest86)
I suspect it could be the HDD because the BSOD is related to the pagefile, but CHKDSK came out clear.
I'm always paranoid that I haven't run enough passes on memtest86, but it's probably just paranoia. I've run it three times, once with 3 passes, once with 7 passes, and last night with 5 passes. It's never reported any problems, however.
The GPU is my prime suspect right now. I'm tempted to just RMA it and, if it's not faulty, swallow the £10 return fee.
Games + benchmarks crashing in the previous build, and games crashing in this one (I may have been lucky in the benchmarks thusfar -- after all, it can go for up to 2 hours before a crash) lead me to that conclusion, but I have a nagging doubt about it.
The BSOD info on MS Technet does say it could be video RAM, but I've had no visual symptoms of faulty graphics RAM except some black triangular artifacts in The Witcher 2 (which I suspect is down to the game itself, since no other game has issues), just random crashes to desktop.
It could also be a bad factory OC, but Furmark has never crashed on me before.
Any advice, PC GAF? Are there more tests I can run on my system, or should I just RMA the graphics card and hope that's the end of it?
Wait, I have onboard graphics on the motherboard?knitoe said:You have a Z68 MB so take the video car out and try the onboard video only. If there are no crashes, you know it's the card. In that case, try running the card at normal stock speed. If it's not, could be the HDD.
Why not use an aftermarket fan/heatsink?bigace33 said:Here is my dilema. I have an HD radeon 6850 and the fan has stopped working. The thing is, the fan was loud and almost unbearable. Now that the fan has seemingly went bad the card is still working like normal. My temps are pretty much the same and I have not had any issues with the card. Tiger is willing to give me another card but I dont feel like sending this one in and waiting for another one. Are there any serious risks for keeping this card even though the fan isn't working? Its obviously getting cooling from somewhere because it hasn't shown any problems since the fan went bad.
i3 2100 for emulation is kind of iffy, will work well for a lot of games but there are quite a few that require some pretty heavy overclocking to run at full speed. Since the 2100 can't be overclocked you might find yourself stuck being unable to emulate a number of games, especially Wii/GCN ones.InfiniteNine said:Well going to build my first PC soon and ordering the parts on Friday so here it goes! Just want to make sure I don't screw things up since I'm new to this and get a good deal for my money.
Basic Desktop Questions:
Your Current Specs:
Intel Core i3-2100
G.SKILL Sniper 8GB (2 x 4GB) 1333
ASUS P8Z68-V
EVGA 01G-P3-1370-TR GeForce GTX 460 1GB
Budget: Around $700
Main Use: Light Gaming, Gaming, Emulation (PS2/Wii), general usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback)
Monitor Resolution: 1080p no plans to upgrade
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Last Remnant, Assassin's Creed II, and most things at least decently. (going in pretty blind to what I'll play atm.)
Are reusing any parts?: Nope, only have a laptop ATM.
When will you build?: Going to order the parts on Friday but I'm not in a rush or anything.
Will you be overclocking?: Maybe but it kinda scares me that I'd mess something up.
Ah, now you have kind of answered my question. The card will not go defective even though the built in fan does not work? My case is really small though. I barely got this card in there. I have one of those HP mid sized cases so I dont even know where I would put another fan at. I'm very ignorant when it comes to this type of thing.mug said:Why not use an aftermarket fan/heatsink?
Not terribly imporant but I'd be willing to upgrade to the Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz (3.7GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor BX80623I52500K from the $1000 build. The price of this all adding up is just scaring me mostly.chaosblade said:i3 2100 for emulation is kind of iffy, will work well for a lot of games but there are quite a few that require some pretty heavy overclocking to run at full speed. Since the 2100 can't be overclocked you might find yourself stuck being unable to emulate a number of games, especially Wii/GCN ones.
Just depends on how much emulation matters to you and what specific games you want to run. A good emu build for Wii games will require a $200 2500k CPU. PS2 games are easier to emulate I think, so you should be okay with most of those.
Yeah I have those picked out already I just put in the information for the things listed on that form.
It can be used only if it's supported. The 2nd slot has to be running at 8x speed. Crossfire can work with a 4x slot being used.Piercedveil said:Can SLI be used on a CrossfireX motherboard? I'm so lost when it comes to mobos.
mug said:It can be used only if it's supported. The 2nd slot has to be running at 8x speed. Crossfire can work with a 4x slot being used.
Yes. If the MB, the board has been licensed for SLI. For example, Asus P8P67 can't, but P8P67 Pro can.Piercedveil said:Can SLI be used on a CrossfireX motherboard? I'm so lost when it comes to mobos.
Depending on how much you want to mutilate it you can take off the plastic shroud part so the heatsink is exposed and point a 80mm fan on it or something...bigace33 said:Ah, now you have kind of answered my question. The card will not go defective even though the built in fan does not work? My case is really small though. I barely got this card in there. I have one of those HP mid sized cases so I dont even know where I would put another fan at. I'm very ignorant when it comes to this type of thing.