"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]

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The implementation I've had on dual GPUs with nVidia, and now AMD has been overall pretty positive.

Granted if you get dual cards you do really want to know what you are doing as I've had to use nVidia Inspector/Raedon Pro to force different profiles for games that were not doing it right. And you always have to update and wait on SLi/xFire profiles.
But the scaling in general works well and if you have the time to devote and know what you get yourself into it is really the only way to get extra power beyond a $500 GPU.

Sometimes I'd still like to have a 570 or 580 though vs. 6950's.
 
Had two crossfire machines in a row, the 4870s and 5870s. Both were some serious headaches where I had to constantly battle with issues because AMD didnt bother updating drivers with game profiles. Seems like other than AAA releases, they simply throw darts a board for which games get profiles. That first two weeks when brink was released was painful. Same goes for APB/APB reloaded. I think I had the second card disabled most of the time in either rig. So far, I haven't had to do a single thing with my nvidia setup other than make sure drivers are updated.

Though, I should also state that I got these guys second hand for a small sum of change, a 6870, and an OCZ Fatal1ty PSU. Was going to stick to my 5870 until that deal came up.
 
I'm waiting for the major Black Friday deals to upgrade my PC and I'm looking to spend less than 200 altogether, but I need some advice.

I'm currently running an AM3 socketed Motherboard and a Phenom II X2 550 and I'm looking to replace it, and since I'll end up needing to replace the mobo for the future anyway, I was wondering about getting a Sandy Bridge. My question is if it would be better to just nab a decently priced AM3 quad core and just sit it out until I need a fuller upgrade, or if I'd be better off getting a whole new motherboard and processor together.

Thanks
 
Had two crossfire machines in a row, the 4870s and 5870s. Both were some serious headaches where I had to constantly battle with issues because AMD didnt bother updating drivers with game profiles. Seems like other than AAA releases, they simply throw darts a board for which games get profiles. That first two weeks when brink was released was painful. Same goes for APB/APB reloaded. I think I had the second card disabled most of the time in either rig. So far, I haven't had to do a single thing with my nvidia setup other than make sure drivers are updated.

Though, I should also state that I got these guys second hand for a small sum of change, a 6870, and an OCZ Fatal1ty PSU. Was going to stick to my 5870 until that deal came up.
Yeah, I think nVidia might have better release date drivers, and I think much less goes wrong on new releases.
I'm waiting for the major Black Friday deals to upgrade my PC and I'm looking to spend less than 200 altogether, but I need some advice.

I'm currently running an AM3 socketed Motherboard and a Phenom II X2 550 and I'm looking to replace it, and since I'll end up needing to replace the mobo for the future anyway, I was wondering about getting a Sandy Bridge. My question is if it would be better to just nab a decently priced AM3 quad core and just sit it out until I need a fuller upgrade, or if I'd be better off getting a whole new motherboard and processor together.

Thanks
Just look for a 955 or 965 deal with a CPU cooler.
 
I currently have...

Core 2 Duo E8400 (OC'd to 3.4 GHz)
6GB DDR2
Nvidia GTS240

and it's really starting to show its age. The Battlefield 3 beta was barely playable.

If I upgraded to a 560ti would it make Skyrim and Battlefield 3 playable on decent settings (medium, 1680x1050) or would it just make more sense to rebuild from scratch?
 
I currently have...

Core 2 Duo E8400 (OC'd to 3.4 GHz)
6GB DDR2
Nvidia GTS240

and it's really starting to show its age. The Battlefield 3 beta was barely playable.

If I upgraded to a 560ti would it make Skyrim and Battlefield 3 playable on decent settings (medium, 1680x1050) or would it just make more sense to rebuild from scratch?

I run Skyrim max on a 560 ti, 8 gigs ram and an old Q6600 quadcore cpu slightly oc'd. I think you should be able to play it fine on medium.
 
Thanks for your input :)
The current so-so demanding games won't be near 60 to clear up any misconceptions, but it is a decent card.
I currently have...

Core 2 Duo E8400 (OC'd to 3.4 GHz)
6GB DDR2
Nvidia GTS240

and it's really starting to show its age. The Battlefield 3 beta was barely playable.

If I upgraded to a 560ti would it make Skyrim and Battlefield 3 playable on decent settings (medium, 1680x1050) or would it just make more sense to rebuild from scratch?
A 560Ti should be a nice help, you will want a CPU upgrade down the line. The GT240 is... pretty poor. Make sure you have a solid 12V based PSU as well.
 
The current so-so demanding games won't be near 60 to clear up any misconceptions, but it is a decent card.

A 560Ti should be a nice help, you will want a CPU upgrade down the line. The GT240 is... pretty poor. Make sure you have a solid 12V based PSU as well.

I think this is what I'll do, thanks:)

I'd love an i5 eventually but it's a whole different socket, so that's a new motherboard too. I will when I have the money to drop :p
 
Even if the resolution is 1366x768?
That should definitely help and I don't think you will be disappointed, but I can't give any concrete answers.
On GPUs:

Is VRAM the new shit/bottleneck?

BF3... I hate thou.
No? Unless you are putting on AA and have a 512MB card or something. 768MB passes for almost everything and 1gig covers you unless you installed a giant texture mod along with a huge draw distance and super high AA.
 
No? Unless you are putting on AA and have a 512MB card or something. 768MB passes for almost everything and 1gig covers you unless you installed a giant texture mod along with a huge draw distance and super high AA.
I think he's referring to BF3's ultra settings for textures, which can use 1-1.5 GB of VRAM I believe. Whether this is a sign that it'll become a bottleneck for high-end settings from this point on, too early to say I'd think outside of future games using that engine.
 
That should definitely help and I don't think you will be disappointed, but I can't give any concrete answers.

No? Unless you are putting on AA and have a 512MB card or something. 768MB passes for almost everything and 1gig covers you unless you installed a giant texture mod along with a huge draw distance and super high AA.

I think he's referring to BF3's ultra settings for textures, which can use 1-1.5 GB of VRAM I believe. Whether this is a sign that it'll become a bottleneck for high-end settings from this point on, too early to say I'd think outside of future games using that engine.

Because I can "run" BF3 on Ultra with my GTX570, but since it hogs so much VRAM it will freeze time to time.
 
I think he's referring to BF3's ultra settings for textures, which can use 1-1.5 GB of VRAM I believe. Whether this is a sign that it'll become a bottleneck for high-end settings from this point on, too early to say I'd think outside of future games using that engine.
Yeah, Ultra textures will do that. Basically a texture mod for games that have that super high option.
 
My computer's still making crazy annoying noises: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yns-WUUjIXA

They're a lot louder than the video implies, and I'm worried it's a part that's about to go wrong? I've tried stopping each fan, and it's not that... it's unfortunately a Dell Vostro with an Antec PSU, 8GB RAM, second hand 5750 graphics card and 3 hard drives (one of which is kinda screwed into a media slot, not where it should be, but I've checked and it's not vibrations from that)

Any suggestions on what it could be, or things to check? I'm tempted by an entire new PC but damn that's going to be expensive, and hopefully necessary. Thanks!
With regards to this, I'm thinking new PSU, can anyone please recommend a good one that's quiet, reliable and hopefully cheap? :D Thanks

Looking at maybe http://www.ebuyer.com/159918-antec-truepower-new-550w-modular-psu-tp-550-ec and http://www.pixmania.co.uk/uk/uk/106...eRCcRHhQbPwEwYk0KAzIEbmMhKiZSBTZ3Iws5RH9RVw== - although they're both Antec which is the make of the PSU that has seemingly just broke
 
Hey guys,

I'm looking for a good wi-fi network card that's competent but also fairly cheap. Anything in particular I should look out for?
 
support_graphics_dxdiag_enabled_large.png


Also, did you use the beta or the WHQL drivers from Nividia? what you can try is to do a clean gpu driver reinstall with both drivers (try both the new beta and whql drivers)

So, still having problems. Downloading the latest beta drivers worked in enabling the accelerations, but when i turn my PC off and then back on again the accelerations are all 'Not Available' so i have to download the drivers everytime i start up.. wassup gaf?
 
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I can't believe these prices are no different than from the beginning of the month. Newegg's pre-BF deals have all sucked and MC hasn't made a peep about its BF deals. Why should I have faith that I can get these parts for anything cheaper than this? I wish I could get something like this for $250.
 
I currently have...

Core 2 Duo E8400 (OC'd to 3.4 GHz)
6GB DDR2
Nvidia GTS240

and it's really starting to show its age. The Battlefield 3 beta was barely playable.

If I upgraded to a 560ti would it make Skyrim and Battlefield 3 playable on decent settings (medium, 1680x1050) or would it just make more sense to rebuild from scratch?

CPU may bottleneck BF3 a bit but you should be getting playable framerates on medium. Go ahead and upgrade.
 
I can't believe these prices are no different than from the beginning of the month. Newegg's pre-BF deals have all sucked and MC hasn't made a peep about its BF deals. Why should I have faith that I can get these parts for anything cheaper than this? I wish I could get something like this for $250.

Don't get an H67 board.
 
So, still having problems. Downloading the latest beta drivers worked in enabling the accelerations, but when i turn my PC off and then back on again the accelerations are all 'Not Available' so i have to download the drivers everytime i start up.. wassup gaf?

Woops n/m, just realized it was other dude's post.

What was your previous card before you had the 560 Ti? Maybe download driver sweeper and clean out every AMD/Nvidia stuff under safe mode by spamming F8 just before the windows logo.
 
Woops n/m, just realized it was other dude's post.

What was your previous card before you had the 560 Ti? Maybe download driver sweeper and clean out every AMD/Nvidia stuff under safe mode by spamming F8 just before the windows logo.

I've only just built the machine so the card is brand new. I've tried a clean install on the drivers but still get the same problem.
 
I've only just built the machine so the card is brand new. I've tried a clean install on the drivers but still get the same problem.

I'm guessing this is your first time building a pc. Is the monitor cable connected to the 560 Ti slot? Maybe try going into bios and disabling onboard graphics and make sure pci express is set to auto. If that doesn't work post a screenshot of your dxdiag and let us know what your full comp specs are and maybe someone can figure it out.
 
I'm guessing this is your first time building a pc. Is the monitor cable connected to the 560 Ti slot? Maybe try going into bios and disabling onboard graphics and make sure pci express is set to auto. If that doesn't work post a screenshot of your dxdiag and let us know what your full comp specs are and maybe someone can figure it out.

Yeah, first build so just learning the ropes. The monitor is connected to the directly to the 560ti. I went into bios and it says PCI Express mode so i'm guessing it's already on auto?

Here are some pics of my dxdiag.
DXD.png


dxd2.png
[/IMG]
 
Question... My new PC parts will be arriving today (hopefully all of them!) including a MB and processor. Can I just keep my HD as is and will it boot up with the new MB and processor or do I still need to format?
 
Question... My new PC parts will be arriving today (hopefully all of them!) including a MB and processor. Can I just keep my HD as is and will it boot up with the new MB and processor or do I still need to format?

It can boot from that HDD and configure your other hardware. You may have to call MS support to switch your activation over (it's automated and takes like 5 minutes). Or you may not.

When I switched my motherboard+CPU after a CPU died using the same HDD/install I had to activate over the phone. When I upgraded recently and added a SSD+new install it accepted my product key without a problem. Might be because it detected my install on my old HDD?

Bump, please? Anyone? :o

Be Quiet PSUs are supposed to be nice, I think. We don't have those in the States though IIRC, don't have any experience with them myself.
 
It can boot from that HDD and configure your other hardware. You'll may have to call MS support to switch your activation over (it's automated and takes like 5 minutes). Or you may not.

When I switched my motherboard+CPU after a CPU died using the same HDD/install I had to activate over the phone. When I upgraded recently and added a SSD+new install it accepted my product key without a problem. Might be because it detected my install on my old HDD?

ty!
 
On GPUs:

Is VRAM the new shit/bottleneck?

BF3... I hate thou.

No, but it's a cheap way of getting around not bothering to code your applications to 64 bit. By having stupid amounts of VRAM your'e effectively reducing the constant switching of textures from the RAM to the VRAM. All 32 bit apps are limited to using 2GB RAM anyway unless they are made large address aware.
 
Try this: http://support.microsoft.com/kb/191660

Also, did you install motherboard drivers, updated directx,

Yep and yep. Tried following the link buy when i go to troubleshoot in advanced settings the change settings is greyed out... above it reads 'if your current driver allows you to change settings, click this button to troubleshoot problems with your display'. So i'm guessing my driver won't allow me to change settings? being the latest beta drivers.
 
Yep and yep. Tried following the link buy when i go to troubleshoot in advanced settings the change settings is greyed out... above it reads 'if your current driver allows you to change settings, click this button to troubleshoot problems with your display'. So i'm guessing my driver won't allow me to change settings? being the latest beta drivers.

From what i've understand you cant do much to change the options really, did you plug all cables in the gpu (if applicable), maybe you can do a format and see what happens?
 
From what i've understand you cant do much to change the options really, did you plug all cables in the gpu (if applicable), maybe you can do a format and see what happens?

Yep, two four pin headers to the power supply. It's wierd because when i reinstall the drivers the acclerations are enabled and it's fine, but when i restart my pc they're back to not available as if it's wiped the drivers.
 
Well lately I've been feeling that my PC is getting a bit long in the tooth and so I've been toying with the idea of upgrading it somehow, my current specs are:

CPU: E8400 @ 3GHz (core 2 duo)
RAM: 4GB DDR2
GPU: HD4850 512MB

Anyway, what needs to be replaced first is obviously the GPU but damn I have no idea what to get. Was planning on sticking with AMD and was thinking of getting either a 6850 or 6870. What can I expect if I get one of those compared to my 4850?
 
Well lately I've been feeling that my PC is getting a bit long in the tooth and so I've been toying with the idea of upgrading it somehow, my current specs are:

CPU: E8400 @ 3GHz (core 2 duo)
RAM: 4GB DDR2
GPU: HD4850 512MB

Anyway, what needs to be replaced first is obviously the GPU but damn I have no idea what to get. Was planning on sticking with AMD and was thinking of getting either a 6850 or 6870. What can I expect if I get one of those compared to my 4850?
You'd get a pretty good boost in performance. Buy the best card you can afford.

Soon though, you'll want to upgrade that proc and mobo.
 
What does this error look like/tell you to do if anything?

Just be sure it's not a virus that's telling you there's a problem when everything seems fine (I almost got tricked by this one myself).

Yeah, that does sound like a virus. My dad and some people where he works got fooled by that and gave it to me, Malwarebytes in safemode took care of it.

Thanks for your input. I ran MSE and Malwarebytes and they didn't find anything. Upon boot, I get POST beeps indicating hardware failure, and the BIOS says something along the lines of 'SMART failure something something' and doesn't let me resume start-up without entering and exiting the BIOS menu. Additionally,
  • HDTune error scan finds no problems
  • Health tab in HDTune doesn't work
I also tested it with SeaTools for Windows and got the following results,
  • SMART - Fail
  • Short DST - Fail
  • Short Generic - Pass
  • Long Generic - Pass
Used cmd.exe and ran CHKDSK /R/F on start-up, didn't find anything wrong with that either.

Anything else? I could do a fresh install of windows as I've already gotten my important data backed up..

I guess I'll be price watching for hardrives in the coming months :<
 
Don't get an H67 board.
Any why not if he is sticking on a budget with a CPU that can't be overclocked?
If possible I'd say stretch to a cheap P67/Z68 for $110 and drop in Ivy Bridge later, but nothing wrong with an H61 or H67 board.
Where can I get extra cables for a modular power supply?

I have a CORSAIR CMPSU-520HX 520W

I only plugged in 2 of the 5 pin connectors that had everything I needed on the other ends and lost the rest over the years.
OFLDil.jpg
Just call Corsair.
Question... My new PC parts will be arriving today (hopefully all of them!) including a MB and processor. Can I just keep my HD as is and will it boot up with the new MB and processor or do I still need to format?
Depends. Usually the OS is tied to the motherboard and your hardware might have funny problems or blue screens. As was said you will probably need to reactivate.
I loathe clean installing, but you should do one imo.
Be Quiet PSUs are supposed to be nice, I think. We don't have those in the States though IIRC, don't have any experience with them myself.
I might be wrong or outdated on this but I think the be quiets are very similar to the OCZ PSUs. So they are 'ok'.
Well lately I've been feeling that my PC is getting a bit long in the tooth and so I've been toying with the idea of upgrading it somehow, my current specs are:

CPU: E8400 @ 3GHz (core 2 duo)
RAM: 4GB DDR2
GPU: HD4850 512MB

Anyway, what needs to be replaced first is obviously the GPU but damn I have no idea what to get. Was planning on sticking with AMD and was thinking of getting either a 6850 or 6870. What can I expect if I get one of those compared to my 4850?
http://www.anandtech.com/bench/Product/304?vs=291
Lower the 4870 frames too.
 
Case: Cooler Master HAF 912 Mid Tower ATX Case (RC-912-KKN1)
Power Supply: Corsair Enthusiast Series 650-Watt 80 Plus Bronze Certified Compatible with Intel Core i3, i5, i7 and AMD platforms - CMPSU-650TXV2
CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz (3.7GHz Turbo Boost) 4 x 256KB L2 Cache 6MB L3 Cache Quad-Core
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus 120mm Sleeve CPU Cooler, RR-B10-212P-G1
Xtra CPU Fan: Cooler Master BladeMaster 120mm PWM High Air Flow Silent Case Fan R4-BMBS-20PK-R0
Motherboard: ASUS P8P67 LE (Rev 3.0) LGA 1155 SATA 6Gbps and USB 3.0 Supported Intel P67 DDR3 2200 ATX Motherboard
RAM: Patriot Memory Sector 5 G Series 8 GB (2x4 GB) DDR3 PC3-10666 1333 MHz 9-9-9-24 Dual Channel PGV38G1333ELK
GPU/Video: GIGABYTE GV-R687OC-1GD Radeon HD 6870 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 CrossFireX Support Video Card with Eyefinity
Hard Drive: HITACHI Deskstar 5K3000 HDS5C3020ALA632 (0F12117) 2TB 32MB Cache SATA III 6.0Gb/s
SSD: OCZ Solid 3 SLD3-25SAT3-60G 2.5" 60GB SATA III 6.0Gb/s MLC
Optical Drive: LG Blu-Ray Burner Black 12X BD-R 2X BD-RE 16X DVD+R 12X DVD-RAM 10X BD-ROM 4MB Cache
Case Fans: 2 x Cooler Master Megaflow Red LED Fans R4-LUS-07AR-GP
Thermaltake Thunderblade 120 mm 4 Led Case Fan 3 and 4 Pin AF0030 (Red)
Cooler Master BladeMaster 120mm PWM High Air Flow Silent Case Fan R4-BMBS-20PK-R0 (Exhaust)

For $999.... good deal?
 
In terms of price? Not too bad. However, it comes with the P8P67 LE which is a big no-no, as it sucks for overclocking.

If only it had a regular P8P67, and maybe a GTX 560 Ti instead of a 6870, it would be great. Can you maybe pay $20 more and get them to give you a regular P8P67 instead?
 
I might be wrong or outdated on this but I think the be quiets are very similar to the OCZ PSUs. So they are 'ok'.
I've just seen them recommended, along with positive reviews. Not much to go off of, but the UK sites I browsed real quick didn't have much that I'd normally recommend.

Thanks for your input. I ran MSE and Malwarebytes and they didn't find anything. Upon boot, I get POST beeps indicating hardware failure, and the BIOS says something along the lines of 'SMART failure something something' and doesn't let me resume start-up without entering and exiting the BIOS menu. Additionally,
  • HDTune error scan finds no problems
  • Health tab in HDTune doesn't work
I also tested it with SeaTools for Windows and got the following results,
  • SMART - Fail
  • Short DST - Fail
  • Short Generic - Pass
  • Long Generic - Pass
Used cmd.exe and ran CHKDSK /R/F on start-up, didn't find anything wrong with that either.

Anything else? I could do a fresh install of windows as I've already gotten my important data backed up..

I guess I'll be price watching for hardrives in the coming months :<
Short DST and SMART failing probably means you're screwed. You could try a fresh install (including formatting the drive), and if that fixes it then great. I'd definitely hold on to that backup though, it's not looking good.
 
In terms of price? Not too bad. However, it comes with the P8P67 LE which is a big no-no, as it sucks for overclocking.

If only it had a regular P8P67, and maybe a GTX 560 Ti instead of a 6870, it would be great. Can you maybe pay $20 more and get them to give you a regular P8P67 instead?

Thanks!

Ok, how about this one?

• Crucial M4 CT064M4SSD2 2.5" 64GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) - $115
• Intel Core i5-2500K Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz (3.7GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 3000 BX80623I52500K - $215
• GIGABYTE GA-Z68A-D3H-B3 LGA 1155 Intel Z68 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard - $130
• EVGA 01G-P3-1561-AR GeForce GTX 560 Ti FPB (Fermi) 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card - $250
• COOLER MASTER HAF 912 RC-912-KKN1 Black SECC/ ABS Plastic ATX Mid Tower Computer Case - $60
• Seagate Barracuda 1 TB 7200 RPM 3.5" Hard Drive - $55
• CORSAIR Enthusiast Series TX650 V2 650W ATX12V v2.31/ EPS12V v2.92 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Active PFC High Performance Power Supply - $90
• G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL9D-8GBRL - $45
• Asus 24x DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD+/-R Burner - $20
• Windows 7 Ultimate - $130

Total - $1010

Any changes?
 
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