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"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]
- Thread starter Hazaro
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evil solrac v3.0 said:
yes they do, 3 slot
If you've got a Sandy Bridge motherboard it should fit though AFAIK (although in some cases with a psu at the bottom it could be tight)
if you go that route just make sure you have seem decent airflow due to the heat being released inside the case instead of expelled through the back slots
Reposting for new page
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OP guide hasn't been updated since SSD since I still feel the Intel 320/510's are the best buy.
I'm not sure what you'd like to see? In the news section? Let me know.
If you want budget you can get a Vertex II.
I'd swap the PSU to an XFX Core 450W. I'm going to change it now that the rebate is not longer $20.
ASUS Extreme 4 / MSI 55 instead of the LE. LE is low end and is gimped for overclocking and features at the same price as other boards.
Sonata Pro is not worth $65 imo
Get an XFX Core 550W PSU or a BP550 if you want modular.
You can also get a GTX 560Ti for $200 after rebate which is nice. 6870 solid card though.
Get a 560 Ti not a 560.
Absolutely will demolish photoshop. 3dsmax there's nothing really faster so I think it should do well on that too.
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Fixed your wishlist to public link. You have to e-mail the link or copy paste the last ID into the public type. Simply setting it does not work unfortunately.ChoklitReign said:
OP guide hasn't been updated since SSD since I still feel the Intel 320/510's are the best buy.
I'm not sure what you'd like to see? In the news section? Let me know.
If you want budget you can get a Vertex II.
I'd swap the PSU to an XFX Core 450W. I'm going to change it now that the rebate is not longer $20.
Was mentioned, but I'll chime in anyway.desh said:
ASUS Extreme 4 / MSI 55 instead of the LE. LE is low end and is gimped for overclocking and features at the same price as other boards.
Sonata Pro is not worth $65 imo
Get an XFX Core 550W PSU or a BP550 if you want modular.
You can also get a GTX 560Ti for $200 after rebate which is nice. 6870 solid card though.
See above for LE comments.DigiMish said:
Get a 560 Ti not a 560.
Absolutely will demolish photoshop. 3dsmax there's nothing really faster so I think it should do well on that too.
~2% in real world. Usually less. I run 1333 myself.snack said:
Saren is Bad
Member
Saren is Bad said:
Ey homies, can anyone answer my question, got lost on the other page.
Saren is Bad
Member
R2D4 said:
Wetness, I'll pick up the 2nd 580 on Friday.
ChoklitReign
Member
Suggestions for a SSD guide:Hazaro said:
Best SSDs <100 USD, 100-150, 150-200, 200+, etc.
I'm not a brand lover; I care about value above any other factor, even if recent SSDs have problems. I'm curious about OS performance on Samsung hard drives, but I'll research some of that. What's so good about XFX PSUs over Corsair's? The XFX 450w is $20 more than the Corsair 430w. I think it's plenty good for my system.
Could always run multiple SSDs if it makes sense for your use.B-Dex said:Yes. I went and did some more reading
I'll still spring for the 120gb and keep the z68.Can't wait to till I order it.
Brands are only so important. It helps when certain brands have better warranties and service than others, though which OEMs each brand uses is key. Rosewill has used about a half dozen OEMs for their PSUs, most of which are middling at best. That isn't to say that that model isn't decent, only that you should also take a look at other options in that price range. It helps when the brand and specific model have a good track record.desh said:
The Sonata Proto doesn't have sound dampening like some of the other Sonata models. While the cable management in the 300 is limited, the Proto is even worse. Still, if you find the 300 for a reasonable price, it offers solid build, good airflow, and thicker steel than the vast majority of the cases in the ~$40-60 range. That last feature is one of the few reasons that I'd still recommend one, in specific instances. The case can also cool well, quietly. The top and rear exhaust have 3 speed control, and should be kept at either low or medium. Add one or two inexpensive, low speed fans for intake, adjust the GPU fan curve, and you should have a quiet build that would outperform a Proto.
Have to bite the bullet at some point.scogoth said:
Arctic Cooling Accelero XTREME Plus II
http://www.arctic.ac/en/p/cooling/vga/376/accelero-xtreme-plus-ii.html
Zalman VF3000(F)
http://www.zalman.co.kr/eng/product/Product_Read.asp?idx=390
http://www.zalman.co.kr/eng/product/Product_Read.asp?idx=407
Thermalright Shaman
http://www.thermalright.com/products/?act=data&id=164&cat_id=30
Or buy a used high end OEM HSF from soem who's upgraded, or gone under water.
ClovingWestbrook
Banned
Hey folks, hopefully I will be doing an upgrade in the next 4-5 months and wanted some feedback.
Basic Desktop Questions:
Your Current Specs: Core duo 6400 /2 gigs DDR2 / MS7519 / 8800GTS 325mb
Budget: $500-700
Main Use: Gaming, Emulation (PS2/Wii), general usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback)
Monitor Resolution: upgrade later
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Battlefield 3, Skyrim, Witcher 2, Crysis 2, Red Orchestra 2, etc.
Are reusing any parts?: List make and model (e.g. Corsair 750w, Thermaltake case, Western Digital WD Caviar RE16 320 GB SATA, )
When will you build?: November
Will you be overclocking?: Maybe (This means yes)
Thanks folks for any assistance you can offer.
Basic Desktop Questions:
Your Current Specs: Core duo 6400 /2 gigs DDR2 / MS7519 / 8800GTS 325mb
Budget: $500-700
Main Use: Gaming, Emulation (PS2/Wii), general usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback)
Monitor Resolution: upgrade later
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Battlefield 3, Skyrim, Witcher 2, Crysis 2, Red Orchestra 2, etc.
Are reusing any parts?: List make and model (e.g. Corsair 750w, Thermaltake case, Western Digital WD Caviar RE16 320 GB SATA, )
When will you build?: November
Will you be overclocking?: Maybe (This means yes)
Thanks folks for any assistance you can offer.
ClovingWestbrook
Banned
Hazaro said:
Will that even be in my budget when the other parts are added?
scogoth said:
Get ready for 50+ hours of research and work, along with around $300-500.
It's not that difficult to get a nearly inaudible air cooled system. You just need good fan control. Also, avoid stock GPU coolers. Twin Frozr or DirectCu II on the cheap. Otherwise, invest in a better aftermarket cooling solution.
iSurvivedTheOutage
Member
Futurevoid said:
sweet!
scogoth said:
Eh, I don't have much noise from my case. Uses 220 mm fans, uber quiet. With load there is a bit of noise, but not enough to be annoying. Using x2 6950 CF.
OCing with a good heatsink is pretty quiet on air too.
I remember a friend once going water cooling and ironically there were elusive bubbles making aquarium sounding noises. It was funny.
Yeah, I wouldn't use any of the above.TheExodu5 said:
Some older blocks had a heatsink element. Even Thermaltake has had a few hybrid models.
http://sg2.hardwarezone.com/img/data/articles/2005/1474/thermaltake_volcano4008.jpg
http://sg2.hardwarezone.com/img/data/articles/2005/1474/thermaltake_volcano4005.jpg
iSurvivedTheOutage
Member
Kaper said:Just posting to thank Gaf for the advice. I got my PC parts in today and I am now posting from it
pics!!!
Futurevoid
Member
Done! Took about 3 hours to put everything together. I'm fairly careful and meticulous. I've since cleaned up the wiring a bit more by tie wrapping the wires on the backside of the motherboard. Everything posted on first boot up. No issues at all getting windows installed and everything is reading as it should. I've not done any overclocking at all so the 2500k is at stock 3.3ghz at the moment. I'm running about 29-31c idle with Corsair H60.
The 800D already had the SATA3 upgraded board for the hotswappable drive tray so it looks like I'll be sending the one I bought back. It would have been nice to know it already came with the case.
Pics! (get ready for a good amount):
Right before I cleaned up the wires. Just a close up shot of the motherboard/cooler:
After I cleaned things up. Full shot:
Side panel with wiring. This has since been wrapped and tied up and looks much cleaner:
The backside of the case:
The Razor Black Widow and Logitech G500 Gaming Mouse I just bought:
The ASUS VE247H Monitor I just got for the new PC:
The 800D already had the SATA3 upgraded board for the hotswappable drive tray so it looks like I'll be sending the one I bought back. It would have been nice to know it already came with the case.
Pics! (get ready for a good amount):
Right before I cleaned up the wires. Just a close up shot of the motherboard/cooler:
After I cleaned things up. Full shot:
Side panel with wiring. This has since been wrapped and tied up and looks much cleaner:
The backside of the case:
The Razor Black Widow and Logitech G500 Gaming Mouse I just bought:
The ASUS VE247H Monitor I just got for the new PC:
momolicious
Member
Anyone thought about this? If all you want to do is just use a computer for internet browsing (email, etc.), writing papers. You really don't ever need to upgrade a new comp in like forever.
Mr Nightman
Banned
Been having a problem for the last month or so, my computer detects my dvd rw drive, and when I put a disc in the autorun comes up. But whenever I try to access any disc, windows explorer locks up, and I have to log off and log back on to fix it, as well as removing the cd. Soo what could be the problem?
Grats dude!Futurevoid said:Done! Took about 3 hours to put everything together. I'm fairly careful and meticulous. I've since cleaned up the wiring a bit more by tie wrapping the wires on the backside of the motherboard. Everything posted on first boot up. No issues at all getting windows installed and everything is reading as it should. I've not done any overclocking at all so the 2500k is at stock 3.3ghz at the moment. I'm running about 29-31c idle with Corsair H60.
The 800D already had the SATA3 upgraded board for the hotswappable drive tray so it looks like I'll be sending the one I bought back. It would have been nice to know it already came with the case.
Pics! (get ready for a good amount):
The Razor Black Widow and Logitech G500 Gaming Mouse I just bought:
Let me know how you like the Blackwidow. I was going to buy one, but shied away its a Razer product. Awesome while it works
I ended up going with a DAS keyboard which should be here next week.
Oh jeeze. I was purchasing a student upgrade to Windows 7 Professional through Digital River and accidentally purchased the 32-bit version rather than the 64-bit version. =/
Support looks like it's going to be a major pain in the ass and probably not very helpful. Should the product key I was given for the 32-bit purchase work if I use a 64-bit Professional install?
Support looks like it's going to be a major pain in the ass and probably not very helpful. Should the product key I was given for the 32-bit purchase work if I use a 64-bit Professional install?
Unknown Soldier
Member
scogoth said:
If you use the stock coolers, which are absolutely terrible. I run GTX 470 SLI with a Thermalright Shaman on the top card and an MSI Twin Frozr II on the bottom card in an HAF 932. The machine is actually the quietest gaming PC I've ever built, which is ironic considering it's the first SLI machine I've ever built. I would dig up the post I made in the previous thread showing my setup if I remembered where it is.
Hazaro said:
I think it depends on what kind of Windows 7 these Student editions are. If they are like the OEM versions, those keys are I believe specific to 32-bit or 64-bit. The retail versions you buy in stores include both a 32-bit and 64-bit DVD in the box and the key works for either one.
The only way to know for sure is to test by installing 64-bit and using your key. The worst thing that happens is it won't work and you'll need to beg support for a 64-bit key.
Hazaro said:Grats dude!
Let me know how you like the Blackwidow. I was going to buy one, but shied away its a Razer product. Awesome while it works
I ended up going with a DAS keyboard which should be here next week.
Good choice. Did you decide to get the blues or the browns?
"...to install it your motherboard needs to come out of your chassis..."
This phrase is the most common I find in reviews of aftermarket coolers.
Since I planned to have the system prebuilt for me the idea that if I put in an aftermarket cooler I should take all that jazz out is killing me, making me opt for staying with the stock one.
I know some cases have a "hole" on their back to let you install coolers (and both the 690 II and Fractal R3 I'm considering have it, I think), but is it enough?
This phrase is the most common I find in reviews of aftermarket coolers.
Since I planned to have the system prebuilt for me the idea that if I put in an aftermarket cooler I should take all that jazz out is killing me, making me opt for staying with the stock one.
I know some cases have a "hole" on their back to let you install coolers (and both the 690 II and Fractal R3 I'm considering have it, I think), but is it enough?
toastyToast
Member
I've had a Black Widow Ultimate for just over a week now and the thing is of surprisingly high quality. The build quality is pretty robust, no flex at all. The finish on the keys is slightly rubbery, I don't know if it'd be to everyone's preference.Hazaro said:Grats dude!
Let me know how you like the Blackwidow. I was going to buy one, but shied away its a Razer product. Awesome while it works
I ended up going with a DAS keyboard which should be here next week.
I wanted Macro keys and the mic passthrough is pretty useful for getting my mic plugged in since my computer is far from where I sit, the backlighting is pretty neat too. My opinion of it is pretty positive, probably because I got one without any defects.
Double-check the motherboard manual (especially if you have a third-party controller on board). You may have plugged the HDDs into the wrong ports, need to enable/disable a function, or need to go over a controller driver.Eltacoman said:
Depends on the socket location on your specific motherboard, and the size or type of mounting mechanism for the cooler. Mids like the R3 and 690 II can still be tricky to work with space wise, unless everything aligns ideally.Ezahn said:
http://www.neogaf.com/forum/showthread.php?p=26037390#post26037390Unknown Soldier said:
Unknown Soldier said:
So, I plan to upgrade in roughly 2-3 weeks (when I receive my tax return). Since there's nothing new on the PC hardware scene within that horizon, I decided that I may as well get the PC-GAF verdict on my intended build:
Some notes:
- I'm an Aussie, hence the prices.
- The DVD-RW drive, 60GB Vertex 2 (OS & programs), 1TB 7200rpm drive (games) and 2x 2TB Samsung F4s (storage) in my current PC will be used in this future system.
- I intend to overclock the CPU to at least 4.5GHz. Initially, I decided on the Noctua NH-D14, but the handful of reviews I later read placed the Silver Arrow practically neck-and-neck with it, so I settled on the latter as it's $20 cheaper.
- I do a fair bit of video encoding, hence the 2600k over the 2500k. If I need to trim some fat from the price, however, I'll switch to the latter.
- Yes, the RAM is 1.5v. It's also the cheapest 2x4GB DDR3-1600 kit PCCG stocks.
Some notes:
- I'm an Aussie, hence the prices.
- The DVD-RW drive, 60GB Vertex 2 (OS & programs), 1TB 7200rpm drive (games) and 2x 2TB Samsung F4s (storage) in my current PC will be used in this future system.
- I intend to overclock the CPU to at least 4.5GHz. Initially, I decided on the Noctua NH-D14, but the handful of reviews I later read placed the Silver Arrow practically neck-and-neck with it, so I settled on the latter as it's $20 cheaper.
- I do a fair bit of video encoding, hence the 2600k over the 2500k. If I need to trim some fat from the price, however, I'll switch to the latter.
- Yes, the RAM is 1.5v. It's also the cheapest 2x4GB DDR3-1600 kit PCCG stocks.
EarsOfASnake
Member
Sending off my p67le b2 for RMA tomorrow (yeah I am lttp) anyway, it has suddenly dawned on me that I have no idea how to store my CPU once I remove it. I have the box but not the plastic insert it came in, suggestions?
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