I recommend looking on eBay at the completed listing section to get an idea of what different components are going for. Keep in mind that current eBay + PayPal fees run around 15%, so $30 on Craig's list is equal to getting around $36 on eBay.some guy wants to buy my ASUS P5B MB for $30. Decent price?
What's the difference between the following ram sticks aside from the size of the heat spreaders?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233202
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233144
I've read that the huge spreaders can get in the way of fancier CPU heatsinks (like the hyper212) but is there any problem or issue with the "modest" version of the ram? Is the giganto-version just for looks?
Take up a DVD slot and they control the voltage to your fans, making them run slower if you want. 33-38 is fine.What's a good idle temp for my new i5 2500k cpu so I can adjust my fans? I've had ~33-38
Any recommended fan settings? I've heard of "fan controllers", any info on that?
Omg... if the GF 100 rumors are true ( aka it being as powerful as 580 sli ) then I'm going single gpu.
You know, it is frustrating to make 3 suggestions and not get any feedback.
If you want a worse overall machine go with that. If you care, look back at my posts and others recommendations over the previous 2-3 pages.
Take up a DVD slot and they control the voltage to your fans, making them run slower if you want. 33-38 is fine.
Just want some feedback.Are you talking to me? because I did read your recommendations and changed the power supply to seasonic 80+
Just want some feedback.
M4 SSD over Vertex 3. Too many issues with that drive imo. If you want comparable speed get a Corsair Force GT instead.
GTX 580. Dropping 2 grand and not getting one seems wrong. GTX 570 is still a great card though, so if you don't think that is worth it, fine.
Samsung F3 1TB or F4 2TB for the drive. Great drives. If you prefer Seagate, fine. I just want to know WHY you pick the parts you pick. That's all.
M4 is currently unavailable at the site i'm ordering from, might get the Corsair Force GT but the reviews on the site seem to favor the OCZ Vertex 3.
The GTX 580 is way too expensive for me...might just SLI with another 570 in the future if I need the extra power.The Samsung F3/F4 aren't available at the site The Seagate is mainly for extra storage, won't be running much from them.
If you could suggest a better hard drive i'd appreciate it: http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?minorcatid=109
Edit: Is this the F4 you're talking about?
http://otvtech.com/catalogue?page=s...ge_stock.tpl&product_id=13679&category_id=364
It's available at a computer store in the city, I could just grab it from there.
$2,000 for a computer...but a GTX 580 is too expensive for you? wat (unless I'm getting you mixed up with another poster. if that's the case, i apologize!)
Also the SLI in the future mindset is a bad one to take. Either you do SLI now or don't do it at all. "In the future" the 600 series will be out which will most be more powerful than the 500 series, and (possibly) consume less power.
You can go about however, it's your $$$...just my opinion.
Reviews often don't take into account random BSODs and driver failures. Both of those SSDs use the newer Sandforce controllers, but Corsair has better support.M4 is currently unavailable at the site i'm ordering from, might get the Corsair Force GT but the reviews on the site seem to favor the OCZ Vertex 3.
The GTX 580 is way too expensive for me...might just SLI with another 570 in the future if I need the extra power.
The Samsung F3/F4 aren't available at the site The Seagate is mainly for extra storage, won't be running much from them.
If you could suggest a better hard drive i'd appreciate it: http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?minorcatid=109
Edit: Is this the F4 you're talking about?
http://otvtech.com/catalogue?page=s...ge_stock.tpl&product_id=13679&category_id=364
It's available at a computer store in the city, I could just grab it from there.
Are there any recommended gaming HTPC builds for around 600-700€ ? Would love to have a machine which i can hook up to my television, to play Skyrim and Arkham City in 1080p.
Does the system not even POST?Shit. So I loaded up Skyrim for the first time and about 2 minutes in my computer just shut off. Now it won't turn back on. All my fans are running and I'm not OCing so I don't think it's a heat issue. Any ideas?
What was the brand?I literally spent the entire day trouble-shooting issues with my pc and it turns out that the power supply was causing all of my problems
Nothing at all. It had been up and running for about 5 hours prior to this, while I was downloading programs and Skyrim and installing drivers and stuff.Does the system not even POST?
Leaning towards bad PSU. I had one go out (a fancy one at that) and some power was still trickling through to the USB and mobo (a couple lights would go on), but nothing else. It's "easy" to test for because if you have a spare PSU from an older PC you can plug in the necessary two connectors to get it to post.Nothing at all. It had been up and running for about 5 hours prior to this, while I was downloading programs and Skyrim and installing drivers and stuff.
Yeah, fans aren't spinning, keyboard and mouse lights aren't on. The LED behind the power button on the case turns on for a split second when I press it if I unplug the PSU and plug it back in. After that first press I get nothing.You certain the computer is off? Could it be the video signal?
What was the brand?
Yeah, fans aren't spinning, keyboard and mouse lights aren't on. The LED behind the power button on the case turns on for a split second when I press it if I unplug the PSU and plug it back in. After that first press I get nothing.
Dont worry about idle temps.I have a stock cooler on my i5-2500K and I'm at idle usage my temps are around 40-45C.... according to the reports I'm reading online that's a bit high. Prime95 gets me to max 71C. The temp in my home is 78F/25.6C...
Going to suggest the normal routine.Yeah, fans aren't spinning, keyboard and mouse lights aren't on. The LED behind the power button on the case turns on for a split second when I press it if I unplug the PSU and plug it back in. After that first press I get nothing.
Dont worry about idle temps.
Can you see the ambient temp within the case? If it's fairly normal try applying a different thermal compound and re-seating the cpu heatsink again. Also try enabling SMART fan control in the bios. The stock heatsink/fan for intel isn't exactly great but they are quiet. I'm using a stock one on my i5-2400 and idles around 38-45 then 60 at load. However I did use Artic Silver 5 instead of the compound that came with the cpu.I have a stock cooler on my i5-2500K and I'm at idle usage my temps are around 40-45C.... according to the reports I'm reading online that's a bit high. Prime95 gets me to max 71C. The temp in my home is 78F/25.6C...
I have a HAF 912 and no videocard in my machine (which worries me as I'm getting my 6870 soon....).
What could be wrong? I just put the fan/heatsink on the CPU just like normal since it came with the thermal compound already on the fan/heatsink...
Now I'm debating getting a Cooler Master 212... like an above poster I'm not going to be overclocking now, but I definitely foresee using a boost when my processor will be starting to age or if I want to try out Dolphin
It's not the 3 core holding you back, but the processing power of your Athlon x3. Still should do very well for gaming that is not RTS or CPU intensive.I've been sitting on a 3-core 3.0ghz for about a year, and I'm curious what benefit I'd have getting a quad or hex-core. Only gaming on this unit, so could I safely stay with what I have and keep getting new GPUs or is more than 3 cores a must?
Yeah, fans aren't spinning, keyboard and mouse lights aren't on. The LED behind the power button on the case turns on for a split second when I press it if I unplug the PSU and plug it back in. After that first press I get nothing.
Yeah none of that worked, can't even get to the ASUS splash screen. Just no juice it seems like. Guess I'll call Amazon about getting a replacement.Dont worry about idle temps.
Going to suggest the normal routine.
-Try booting with one stick of RAM, then just the other by itself as well.
-Try clearing CMOS.
-Try booting with no video card
-Recheck all cables to make sure they are plugged all the way in properly.
-Remove anything that isn't necessary to just boot, including HDD's, just try to get into BIOS
-Once you get into BIOS, start adding things back piece by piece
-If none of this works, either motherboard or PSU related.
It's not the 3 core holding you back, but the processing power of your Athlon x3. Still should do very well for gaming that is not RTS or CPU intensive.
I'd say on staying away from increasing voltage. You can increase the multiplier without increasing heat.Sorry, should have read the OP :x I see 65C is max safe temp though... so I'm assuming I shouldn't attempt any O/Cing at all on the stock hsf?
Finally going modular. Goes well with my white case. Going to let the IT guy at work put it in for me.
Not sure if you have yet (haven't been following thread much lately) but have you ran memtest86+? Could easily be bad ram.Is my GTX580 dying?
I'm getting full system reboots.
Took of all OC of all components. STILL REBOOTS.
Ran Intelburntest with Max memory for 20runs. No issues there.
Play Skyrim. Surely, it'll reboot at some point.
NOTHING on my system has changes. This was happening with 1.2. Updated to 1.3 still happening. Getting worse.
Any ideas?
Not sure if you have yet (haven't been following thread much lately) but have you ran memtest86+? Could easily be bad ram.
Yep ran memtest also and prime 95 set to focus on RAM. No issues.
Event viewer logs this each time:
"The bugcheck was: 0x00000116 (0xfffffa800cd45010, 0xfffff88007d4a330, 0xffffffffc000009a, 0x0000000000000004)."