"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]

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Does anyone here have AsRock P67 Extreme6 B3?

I could get a slightly used one for quite cheap and use it with my 2500K. It's usually 185€ around here and I'm looking at a 120€ pricepoint, which sounds like a good deal to me. Would replace my ASUS P8P67 B3 which I would then sell. Any comments?
 
Argh, having serious problems with my build.

Motherboard refuses to recognize GPU and just won't load. Have RMA'd it twice. Taking it back to the store tomorrow to get everything sorted.

Disaster rig for sure.
 
Kyaw said:
Case power button pin to motherboard properly plugged in?

Motherboard shorting out because it's touching the metal panels on the case?
I think so, but no lights come on the board so I the problem must be before that right?
The board screwed on well so I don't think that's it either
 
f0rk said:
I think so, but no lights come on the board so I the problem must be before that right?
The board screwed on well so I don't think that's it either

Let's go back to basics...
- Are all the power supply to mobo pins connected? (there's a long one and a square or shorter one, both should be connected)
- Is the power supply plugged in to a power outlet?
- Does your power supply come with a back switch you haven't put in the ON position?
- Is the CPU fan connected to the mobo?

Dunno, sometimes it's the stupidest thing.
 
Balehead said:
Does anyone here have AsRock P67 Extreme6 B3?

I could get a slightly used one for quite cheap and use it with my 2500K. It's usually 185€ around here and I'm looking at a 120€ pricepoint, which sounds like a good deal to me. Would replace my ASUS P8P67 B3 which I would then sell. Any comments?
Well, I have an ASRock P67 Extreme4, and as my 2500K is currently at 4.4Ghz and has been since I bought it (It runs 4.8Ghz but is an inferno at that speed) I would say that the Extreme should be as good if not better.
 
Sorry if it's been mentioned but I didnt see it in the OP, is there a good Water Cooling guide out there anyone knows of?
 
beje said:
Let's go back to basics...
- Are all the power supply to mobo pins connected? (there's a long one and a square or shorter one, both should be connected)
- Is the power supply plugged in to a power outlet?
- Does your power supply come with a back switch you haven't put in the ON position?
- Is the CPU fan connected to the mobo?

Dunno, sometimes it's the stupidest thing.

Unfortunately it's none of these :(
Tested the power cable on the monitor as well.
 
Soka said:
Many people here will suggest you should not purchase the LED monitor (mostly because of picture quality not being as good as LCD) and stick to the classic LCD. I like LED personally, though.

Is your main purpose for this PC going to be gaming? If so, switch to an i5 2500k. The i7 only really adds hyperthreading, which has very, very limited use in only a few games. Save the ~$100 and put it towards 8GB of RAM, a better case, or a better/modular PSU (although your RAM, case, and PSU are just fine as is, so you could also just pocket that extra $100). You might want to also consider an aftermarket CPU cooler such as the oft-suggested Coolermaster Hyper 212+.

You are a God. Thank you.
 
Ayo said:
You are a God. Thank you.

If you have no problems affording a 2600k you should get it. If BF3(and other games next year) supports more then 4 threads you'll have a massive advantage and you'll not have to worry about upgrading for that much longer.

If getting the 2600k means getting a weaker GPU, then go with the 2500k and a better GPU. If you can afford a higher-end GPU and the 2600k, you should do it. Hyperthreading will yield pretty significant increases in performance when the games start using more then 4 threads.

Considering your choices in components, I would just spend the extra $100 since you have a 580 in your build.

Memory is a $40 upgrade, so you can worry about adding more whenever you need it.
 
Q8D3vil said:
got g35 headset.
cheap and amazing for gaming, build quality and gaming sound is way better than my old sennheiser hd555 with a sound card.

I've been thinking about this or the G930; I might just get away with using my AD700s + amp, while using my lifecam cinema as a mic.
 
n0n44m said:
is the psu working at all ? to test:

-turn it off first (unplug powercable as well), unplug all PSU cables except for a DVD drive
-then short out the green pin on the ATX-24 cable with one of the black pins using a metal clip or something
-plug in powercable, then turn on the switch on the back and see if the PSU fan starts and whether you can open the DVD drive

Is it meant to be so hard to remove the ATX-24 cable? It won't budge, it doesn't feel like the clips doing anything.
 
Stop It said:
Well, I have an ASRock P67 Extreme4, and as my 2500K is currently at 4.4Ghz and has been since I bought it (It runs 4.8Ghz but is an inferno at that speed) I would say that the Extreme should be as good if not better.

Thanks for the response! Yeah it should definitely be an okay upgrade for that price, but someone already outbid me and I doubt I'm willing to pay any more.
 
f0rk said:
Is it meant to be so hard to remove the ATX-24 cable? It won't budge, it doesn't feel like the clips doing anything.

There's a "clip" thing holding it in place. Press it while you pull to unlock it.
 
Kyaw said:
I think they push air towards the card and out the back.

MSI-N560GTX-Ti-Twin-Frozr-II-OC-PCI-E-2.0-SLI-2xDVI-500x500.jpg


That's how it looks, so you're saying they "suck" cool air towards the black fans from the labels direction?
 
Corky said:
MSI-N560GTX-Ti-Twin-Frozr-II-OC-PCI-E-2.0-SLI-2xDVI-500x500.jpg


That's how it looks, so you're saying they "suck" cool air towards the black fans from the labels direction?

Ya. Air from the bottom of the case into the card, and out the back of the card.
 
looking at that picture they blow down on the heatsink, so air will exit in pretty much all directions as the sides aren't closed off like with most reference coolers (OK top is closed somewhat but still)

also note that the fans are standard fans, not the radial type of fans you see on reference coolers which blow air to the side instead of downward
 
Only some air goes out the back of the card. A lot of it is expelled right into the case.

This is the case of all good GPU coolers. As long as you have decent case airflow, it results in much better cooling than the stock coolers.
 
beje said:
There's a "clip" thing holding it in place. Press it while you pull to unlock it.

Yeah I wasn't pushing the clip back properly.

So I tried that jump start trick and nothing happened. I can't be 100% I did it right but still, the power supply is probably broke.
Going to bring the whole thing to a local shop that have done a pretty good job in the past so they can test it then I'll order any replacements. I should of bought a modular power supply anyway.
 
Yeah my card with that similar cooler design sucks air in from bottom of the case and blows it out in every direction.

Kinda bad when the card gets hot... it's the 480 and i have the Antec 300 case.
 
Horsemama1956 said:
If you have no problems affording a 2600k you should get it. If BF3(and other games next year) supports more then 4 threads you'll have a massive advantage and you'll not have to worry about upgrading for that much longer.

If getting the 2600k means getting a weaker GPU, then go with the 2500k and a better GPU. If you can afford a higher-end GPU and the 2600k, you should do it. Hyperthreading will yield pretty significant increases in performance when the games start using more then 4 threads.

Considering your choices in components, I would just spend the extra $100 since you have a 580 in your build.

Memory is a $40 upgrade, so you can worry about adding more whenever you need it.

A serious question here, can we realistically expect very many games to use Hyperthreading? HTing has ben around for years and as far as I know it never really was put to much use... and in this day and age with console-PC crossplatform being more common, it seems to me even less likely that developers will put HTing to use.
 
Oh I see guys, this is interesting. The main reason I ask this is because I'll be getting a soundcard on monday or tuesday and I'm not sure where to put for optimal or rather minimal negative interference with the enclosed airflows.

Right now one of the cards is always 5 C hotter than the other and I'm abit nervous over this potential soundcard making it even worse by obstructing the flow somehow.
 
so my last pc i built was in 2006, it is my current "studio" pc and it works well for what I use it for (Reason, CueBase ect) and also have a late 2009 MBP that i'm thinking od selling

but lately ive had the urge to build a new pc, so far this is what I have specd, target budget is $500

CPU - i3-549 Clarksdale
GPU - either evga GTX 550 ti or XFX Radeon HD 5770
Ram - G Skill 8GB Ripjaw
Mobo - ASUS P7H55-M PRO
Case - Silverstone Lascala LC13B

already have a 2TB WD drive

Budget: 500-600 + USA
Main Use: this will be in my home theater, so movies, but also want something that will be sufficient for playing most modern gamesusage (Word, Web, 1080p playback)
Monitor Resolution: 1080p 1920x1080
When will you build?: When do you want your computer, do you need it in a week, can you wait a month or two?
Will you be overclocking?: No

question
-would I be smart getting either of the gpus listed, or is there something on the horizon in the same price range that I should hold out for? I could use the mobo on board for most my use I would guess

-are there any knowledgable hackintosh Gaf members? 99% certain I will have no issues with it from what I have researched on the appropriate forums, but there are always a few things that can cause issues (my previous build was 100% compatible on paper, but my evga version of the nforce4 mobo was not)
-any other advice is welcomed
 
Corky said:
Oh I see guys, this is interesting. The main reason I ask this is because I'll be getting a soundcard on monday or tuesday and I'm not sure where to put for optimal or rather minimal negative interference with the enclosed airflows.

Right now one of the cards is always 5 C hotter than the other and I'm abit nervous over this potential soundcard making it even worse by obstructing the flow somehow.

If you have a good air intake, it will be fine.

Or go w/c :)
 
Hey Gaf, having problems with my comfy couch ):

It's a huge pain having to unplug my screens HDMI cable and then plug it into the TV (they're in really awkward places), so I was wondering if anyone knows of any good HDMI switchers? The ones I've found so far all seem to just switch inputs, not outputs and none of them are two-way.

Also how the hell do I get surround from my PC via HDMI in games? It's fine with movies or whatever but I hate being reduced to stereo in games. I figure I need something to encode the surround sound on-the-fly, right? If I have to use a S/PDIF cable as well as the HDMI one, I dont mind, though I'd rather just one cable.

My GPU is a HD 5850 and I use the onboard sound card of my Gigabyte GA-X58A-UD3R, just incase that helps. Thanks!
 
daviyoung said:
Argh, having serious problems with my build.

Motherboard refuses to recognize GPU and just won't load. Have RMA'd it twice. Taking it back to the store tomorrow to get everything sorted.

Disaster rig for sure.

What is your mobo/GPU combination? Is the correct PCI_E cords plugged in? Did you install the correct drivers?
 
f0rk said:
Yeah I wasn't pushing the clip back properly.

So I tried that jump start trick and nothing happened. I can't be 100% I did it right but still, the power supply is probably broke.
Going to bring the whole thing to a local shop that have done a pretty good job in the past so they can test it then I'll order any replacements. I should of bought a modular power supply anyway.

Did you try booting it outside of the case? With only 1 stick of ram, GPU, CPU/heatsink?
 
So, I have a Western Digital Velociraptor 300 GB Hard drive and was looking at adding an Intel 320 80 or 120 G HD. Is there really going to be that big of a difference, is it worth doing? I just put in a new Velocraptor 3 months ago.

I figured I would put windows 7 and a game or two i play a lot on the SD. Just wondering since I am a paste eater when it comes to Computers.

Thanks
 
MrBelmontvedere said:
I hope this isn't considered nitpicking, but turbo mode isn't overclocking. overclocking is running a component at speeds beyond what it was designed for. since turbo mode is within design specifications, and is wholly intended by the manufacturer, it isn't overclocking.

FYI

That's true. Although I think Intel's Ivy Bridge is an extension of the same core tech and they intend to run it beyond 4.0 GHz.
 
BaDJuJU said:
So, I have a Western Digital Velociraptor 300 GB Hard drive and was looking at adding an Intel 320 80 or 120 G HD. Is there really going to be that big of a difference, is it worth doing? I just put in a new Velocraptor 3 months ago.

I figured I would put windows 7 and a game or two i play a lot on the SD. Just wondering since I am a paste eater when it comes to Computers.

Thanks
Yes. SSDs are big performance boost over any HDD.
 
BaDJuJU said:
So, I have a Western Digital Velociraptor 300 GB Hard drive and was looking at adding an Intel 320 80 or 120 G HD. Is there really going to be that big of a difference, is it worth doing? I just put in a new Velocraptor 3 months ago.

I figured I would put windows 7 and a game or two i play a lot on the SD. Just wondering since I am a paste eater when it comes to Computers.

Thanks

Well I went from that exact same situation to an Intel 320 Series. Difference is night and day. Fantastic. Should make the SSD your main drive. Store your media on the Raptor. Install your games on the SSD.
 
Kyaw said:
If you have a good air intake, it will be fine.

Or go w/c :)

I think I do, the area around my pc is open and dust free. I'd love to go w/c... next build!
 
So on the third day of non-stop use (running games, running prime95, internet use, music ripping and more) after having removed the ram chip and I've not had a crash as of yet. The ram looks to have definitely been the culprit behind the crashes. It's amazing what one little bad chip can do to system stability.

I'm almost afraid to even try overclocking after finally having achieved some real stability now. I posed this question earlier and didn't get an answer so I'll ask it again:

Do the default turbo modes in the Asrock motherboard work well? Or is it better to manually do the overclock?
 
Futurevoid said:
So on the third day of non-stop use after having removed the ram chip and I've not had a crash as of yet. The ram looks to have definitely been the culprit behind the crashes. It's amazing what one little bad chip can do to system stability.

I'm almost afraid to even try overclocking after finally having achieved some real stability. I posed this question earlier and didn't get an answer so I'll ask it again:

Do the default turbo modes in the Asrock motherboard work well? Or is it better to manually do the overclock?

What are you running again, a 2500k with a stock cooler? If you have anything but stock, you could just throw your multiplier to 40 and see what happens. That's the only setting I've changed on mine and I've yet to have any problems.
 
RS4- said:
What are you running again, a 2500k with a stock cooler?
2500k with a Corsair H60. Idle temps are between 28-31c. Maximum temp under full load running prime95 is 46c.

Here's the install again:

k39c1v.jpg


Minus one RAM chip at the moment.:)
 
I'm not sure how it'll affect things with only one stick; if you had both then yeah, you can just hit something like x44 and not worry about much in terms of cooling and voltage.
 
MisterNoisy said:
Absolutely not. The two are very comparable, and in my opinion, the Gaia is easier to install. The only thing really holding the Gaia back relative to the Hyper 212 is the fan - Xigmatek ships a 1500 RPM fan with the Gaia, whereas CM ships a 2000 RPM unit with the Hyper 212, and fans are easy to replace if you find that you need more oomph down the road.

Thank you very much.

Last question, would it be a big mistake on my part if i changed the motherboard to the cheaper version -

MSI MB P67 S1155 ATX/P67A-C45 B3

Instead of my first choice - MSI P67A-GD65 B3 P67 S1155 ATX
 
Well, today I returned the 800D case. Despite looking amazing, it really is horrible for air cooling (now I remember why I sold my original 700D last year). My raven 2 might not look as nice, but at least now I have a new appreciation for it's cooling performance (and low noise levels).
 
Can you guys recommend me a Video card other than this one? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127564 It's in the OP. This card is pretty damn expensive and I figured it's overkill for my needs. I don't really play PC games too much and if I do get into anything it'll probably be StarCraft II. The most I'll do is probably edit video in 1080p. The rest of my build will be exactly if not very similar to the 1000$ build in the OP. Thanks a lot guys.
 
Tashi0106 said:
Can you guys recommend me a Video card other than this one? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127564 It's in the OP. This card is pretty damn expensive and I figured it's overkill for my needs. I don't really play PC games too much and if I do get into anything it'll probably be StarCraft II. The most I'll do is probably edit video in 1080p. The rest of my build will be exactly if not very similar to the 1000$ build in the OP. Thanks a lot guys.
GTX 560 Ti

What's your budget?
 
j-wood said:
I'm about to order my new PC! I sold my gaming desktop last year, and now is the time to get it back. Here is what I have picked out...can I get some opinions on this machine? Total cost (with a logtitech G9x, MS sidewinder x4 keyboard, and windows 7 home) was $1260.00

Case - Antec Twelve Hundred V3 Black Steel ATX Full Tower Unbeatable Gaming Case
Model #:Twelve Hundred V3
Item #:N82E16811129100

Motherboard - ASRock P67 EXTREME4 (B3) LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
Model #:P67 EXTREME4 (B3)
Item #:N82E16813157229

Video Card - EVGA 01G-P3-1372-TR GeForce GTX 460 (Fermi) Superclocked 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video ...
Model #:01G-P3-1372-TR
Item #:N82E16814130571

PSU - Antec BP550 Plus 550W Continuous Power ATX12V V2.2 80 PLUS Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply
Model #:BP550 Plus
Item #:N82E16817371016

CPU - Intel Core i7-2600K Sandy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor BX80623I72600K
Model #:BX80623I72600K
Item #:N82E16819115070

RAM - G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) Desktop Memory Model F3-10666CL8D-4GBRM
Model #:F3-10666CL8D-4GBRM
Item #:N82E16820231275

HDD - Western Digital Caviar Black WD5002AALX 500GB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
Model #:WD5002AALX
Item #:N82E16822136795

One final question about this build...that case has 7 120mm fans and 1 200mm fan...Am I going to run into any issues with that 550w PSU? The newegg calculator said I would only need 492w so that's why I chose that 550w...but I wasn't thinking about the case
 
Tashi0106 said:
Thanks

I'd like to spend 250$ tops on a video card. Hoping for around 200$
Ranging from cheapest to priciest for that budget:

Under $200:
AMD HD 5770
AMD HD 6850
AMD HD 6870

$200-$300:
Nvidia GTX 560 Ti
AMD HD 6950

People have brand preferences like Nvidia works better in Linux OSes.
 
claviertekky said:
Ranging from cheapest to priciest for that budget:

Under $200:
AMD HD 5770
AMD HD 6850
AMD HD 6870

$200-$300:
Nvidia GTX 560 Ti
AMD HD 6950

People have brand preferences like Nvidia works better in Linux OSes.

Ok, I'll have a look around at reviews and stuff like that. All of those you listed should be able to handle what I need right? Also, what about the size of these things? How do I know which case it will fit in? I was looking to get this case...http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119216

Thanks a lot for help. I really appreciate it.
 
Tashi0106 said:
Ok, I'll have a look around at reviews and stuff like that. All of those you listed should be able to handle what I need right? Also, what about the size of these things? How do I know which case it will fit in? I was looking to get this case...http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119216

Thanks a lot for help. I really appreciate it.
Do you plan to use a tower case or a micro ATX/mini ITX case?

Generally for a tower case, everything will fit although there are some minor exceptions (i.e. aftermarket heatsinks).

Now, I'm going to look at that case you posted.

Yeah, that should be able to fit everything. I recently built a computer for a friend using the Cooler Master HAF 912 case as strongly suggested from members here. Highly recommended as it's the best tower case I've used.

Also used the Cooler Master Hyper 212+ for CPU overclocking.
 
Tashi0106 said:
Thanks a lot for help. I really appreciate it.

If you end up buying a 200-300 card, do yourself a huge favor and buy, like claviertrekky suggests :

the asus direct II cu or msi twin frozr II versions of either 560 ti or 6950.
 
claviertekky said:
Do you plan to use a tower case or a micro ATX/mini ITX case?

Generally for a tower case, everything will fit although there are some minor exceptions (i.e. aftermarket heatsinks).

Now, I'm going to look at that case you posted.

Yeah, that should be able to fit everything. I recently built a computer for a friend using the Cooler Master HAF 912 case as strongly suggested from members here. Highly recommended as it's the best tower case I've used.

Also used the Cooler Master Hyper 212+ for CPU overclocking.

Yea that's what drew me to this case. It comes highly recommended and many people have mentioned that it has plenty of room to work in. I've never built my own PC before and honestly don't know much about the parts themselves so anything extra room in case so everything fits nice and snug is great to me. The case you posted I guess could work but I'm honestly drawn away by the styling. It looks like it's supposed to withstand earthquakes and stuff hahaha
 
Tashi0106 said:
Yea that's what drew me to this case. It comes highly recommended and many people have mentioned that it has plenty of room to work in. I've never built my own PC before and honestly don't know much about the parts themselves so anything extra room in case so everything fits nice and snug is great to me. The case you posted I guess could work but I'm honestly drawn away by the styling. It looks like it's supposed to withstand earthquakes and stuff hahaha
Ah. I built my first PC eight years ago. At the time, I hated how retailers charged double for what you can build yourself for half the price.

Since then, I've helped other people, so my total PC build count is ten.

Should be fun man. Luckily, you have GAF for help as all I had was myself and my thinking skills when I built my first computer, so if you run into trouble, just post pictures/videos and ask.
 
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