"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]

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Is a slight whining/buzzing noise coming from my psu (or gpu?) normal when the computer is switched off?

Its a thermaltake toughpower xt 775w and a gigabyte gtx580.
 
jazzabrandy said:
Is a slight whining/buzzing noise coming from my psu (or gpu?) normal when the computer is switched off?

Its a thermaltake toughpower xt 775w and a gigabyte gtx580.

No it's not normal, but it depends how long it does this for after you switch off. Sometimes it takes a while for components to completely power down after you shut down. A motherboard LED will stay on for up to a minute after the power is disconnected, but this is up to the make.

Switch power off on PSU and unplug it, if it still makes a noise after a few minutes then something's up.

I have a feeling it's just a fan powering down.
 
daviyoung said:
No it's not normal, but it depends how long it does this for after you switch off. Sometimes it takes a while for components to completely power down after you shut down. A motherboard LED will stay on for up to a minute after the power is disconnected, but this is up to the make.

Switch power off on PSU and unplug it, if it still makes a noise after a few minutes then something's up.
The sound stops when the psu is switched off but if the psu is on and the computer is off it makes the sound and its quite irritating.
 
Newegg has started their summer sale. Imagine this will help some people out.

http://promotions.newegg.com/neemai...-IGNEFL062811-_-EMC-062811-Index-_-E0-_-Enter

That said. I am looking to possibly build my first PC but I am completely ignorant when it comes to this stuff. Are there any really good deals to be had in that sale that I should use to put a PC together? My budge is around $1,000(if it comes in less sweet!)and my goal is to build a PC that will last me 2-4 years without upgrades and a few years beyond that with upgrades if possible.
 
jazzabrandy said:
So what are my options? Could it lead to worse problems?

Yeh it could, it shouldn't be making any noise at all. Unfortunately it could be a magnitude of problems but my first step would be to make sure that it's not overheating during use or anything like that.
 
daviyoung said:
Yeh it could, it shouldn't be making any noise at all. Unfortunately it could be a magnitude of problems but my first step would be to make sure that it's not overheating during use or anything like that.
How should i do that? With a program or just feeling it?
 
I'm ashamed to say that I need a little help. I feel like an old man confused by all of the current tech. :(

Basically my local file / web / database / development server just died and I need to transition my PC motherboard / processor / ram over to do the job. I can survive with my laptop for the time being, but I'm going to have to get a new PC, and quick.

Basic Desktop Questions:
Your Current Specs: Core 2 Quad Q6600 / 4GB DDR2 8500 / Gigabyte GA-P35-DQ6 / 4890 1GB
Budget: 800 GBP
Main Use: Gaming, very heavy duty multitasking, 1080p video.
Monitor Resolution: No higher than 1920 x 1200
Are reusing any parts?: GPU, SSD, Case, DVD, PSU (I hope, Thermaltake ToughPower 750W).
When will you build?: Realistically within a month.
Will you be overclocking?: No


Having investigated, I think I'm looking at the following components...

CPU: i7 2600
RAM: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 PC3-12800C8
M/B: Asus P8P67 Pro / Asus P8Z68-V ???
Cooler: ???

I'm really not sure what to go for in the motherboard department, I can't seem to work out what the differences between the different types are. Seems most people advise on the P67 or Z68 but I don't know which is better. What I know for certain is that it should have bulletproof stability, very high performance gigabit networking (an average day sees me transferring terabytes of data), USB 3.0 and run as cool / quiet as possible (the case has three 120mm fans in it, so airflow wont be a problem). I don't care about overclocking functionality, wireless or most other bells and whistles. Stable performance is everything, this machine will likely run 24*7 for the next four or five years.

I don't know what's good in CPU cooler land right now. Am rocking a Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme at the moment, but I'm guessing there's better around these days. Ideally I'd want another 120mm fan job as I need to keep the noise down as much as possible.

I'm fine with keeping my graphics card as is. It's not so modern now, but more important than anything right now is the rest of the machine, specifically the motherboard.

Any assistance anyone can give is greatly appreciated. :)
 
Can anyone advise me how many Radeon 5870s I can squeeze into a board until the PCI-E slot draw starts to become an issue?

I have a board with both a 4 pin and 6 pin aux input on it, and I'm hoping to chuck 2 5870s in both PCIE 16x slots and then use two PCIE 1x -> 16x flex riser cables to add another 2 5870s (externally to the case if I have to due to space / heat issues)... Assuming the power supply has enough juice on the rails to support this, am I going to have any issues with slot draw?
 
So, as everyone else, I want a new PC and am planning on buying one. I however, do not have a lot of knowledge of computer hardware and also know very little about the brands out there.

This is my first time I can assemble my own PC and am getting the help of a friend. I live in The Netherlands so things will be quite a lot more expansive here.

Basic Desktop Questions:
Your Current Specs: AMD Athlon 64 X2 3800+ @ 2.0Ghz, HD 4770 (512 MB), 2 GB DDR2 RAM, AliveSATA2 GLAN, Samsung Spinpoint F3 500 GB .
Budget: Around 1000 euros including monitor and mouse. Perhaps more by adding more over time.
Main Use: The main use will be gaming, but I will use this for many things. Emulation, web browsing, programming, 3D modelling, Adobe programs, Dolphin, UDK, Cryengine hopefully.
Monitor Resolution: Right now 1280 * 1024, but I am planning on upgrading to a Full HD screen.
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: The Witcher 2, Crysis, Battlefield 3, Skyrim.
Are reusing any parts?: Samsung Spinpoint F3 500 GB
When will you build?: As soon as I have finalized my choice of every component, so a week, maybe two.
Will you be overclocking?: Probably, but not much. And I wouldn't mind very much if it isn't possible.

Now, I have a few concerns. My hard disk is slow, unbelievably slow, loading games takes way longer than it should on a 7200 rpm and I do not know what the cause is. Is it possible that it will go faster when I connect it on different components? Or can it solely be a harddrive hardware problem and is there not a chance it will go faster on a new PC?

I have no space issues, since I do not have a lot of media, 500 gb is fine for me. So to save money, I preferably keep this hard disk and maybe buy a new one (or a SSD) in the future.

An other thing is that I would like to connect my PC on both my monitor and tv so I can switch between them depending on what I want to do. What do I need to set it up and how much will that cost me? Or is it not recommended at all, I am not planning on using my tv as a second monitor, only when I want to play a game.

Also, for Dolphin a bluetooth receiver is necessary, this is included on almost all of the P67 motherboards am I right?

I also need a Windows 7 license since I use XP right now. As a student I should have plenty of options, but most deals are only for US based educations an my school isn't registered at the MSDNAA. My friend from a other college is in a registered school, but he needs a confirmation code or something which he doesn't know what it is or how to obtain it. Are codes on Ebay usually safe to use? Because that would save a lot of money.

Because I do a lot of work outside of games, I have decided I want 8 GB instead of 4 GB, a 2600k is a little too much and I am content with a 2500k.

As for cases, I do not know where I have to pay attention to or how to find it (such as, does the cooler fits on the case?), so I picked a cheap, quite, white/grey (I prefer that over black, but it doesn't matter much) case.

Any recommendations for a mouse or Full HD monitor? I don't have many preferences on this part, and also know little about them but I do not need a very good gaming mouse or anything and also don't have a clue where to watch for in monitors.

I really hope some of you can offer guidance and help to what I want. And I am aware that I am asking a lot. I can raise the budget if recommended. This is what I have right now:

http://tweakers.net/gallery/297490?wish_id=169532#tab:wenslijst (Dutch site, should be clear).

With delivery costs it will probably be around €870, that's without mouse, hard disk and monitor. All which aren't very high priority for me. Also the right cables to connect my tv and monitor both to my pc if possible (tv is around five meters from my PC).
 
Prophet Steve said:
An other thing is that I would like to connect my PC on both my monitor and tv so I can switch between them depending on what I want to do. What do I need to set it up and how much will that cost me? Or is it not recommended at all, I am not planning on using my tv as a second monitor, only when I want to play a game.

A new graphics cards will support two screens (either through HDMI, DVI and VGA), and most of the set up of two displays will be done through Windows. I would be wary about playing games on a TV over a monitor though, you'll lose some fidelity that way. But if you're not a graphics geek it shouldn't make much difference to you.

For a monitor, I have a Iiyuma 24" 1920x1080. It's cheap, and it does the job fine.

I have no idea about Windows licenses, but OEM packs are cheaper than retail so if you want Windows 7 (highly recommended) then plump for an OEM one. If it's crucial you could always install Windows XP until you can afford an SSD and Windows 7.
 
Hazaro said:
I think I might need a keyboard rest, I'll give myself a week to try and adjust.

I'm contemplating buying another mechanical (BlackWidow, in particular) and keeping it at work just to help this adjusting process :/ I keep coming home and going to type on my keyboard and misalign myself due to the extra keys to the left. Which is weird since I never had that issue when I was switching between my G15 and other keyboards.

Got some things to finish in my backlog before I sit down and (hopefully) lose myself in SC2. Maybe by then I'll get used to the keyboard...
 
daviyoung said:
A new graphics cards will support two screens (either through HDMI, DVI and VGA), and most of the set up of two displays will be done through Windows. I would be wary about playing games on a TV over a monitor though, you'll lose some fidelity that way. But if you're not a graphics geek it shouldn't make much difference to you.

For a monitor, I have a Iiyuma 24" 1920x1080. It's cheap, and it does the job fine.

I have no idea about Windows licenses, but OEM packs are cheaper than retail so if you want Windows 7 (highly recommended) then plump for an OEM one. If it's crucial you could always install Windows XP until you can afford an SSD and Windows 7.
Oh I know about the graphic fidelity, I won't use it constantly but only when playing games where I don't need the fidelity, mostly older games and indie games.

I'll search for an OEM version for Windows 7, I already use it on my laptop an desperately need it on my PC (for work and gaming purposes).
 
Looks like my power supply was DOA, which seems rare. Going to RMA it.
It was a Corsair TX750, and after seeing it I think a modular design would suit me better in terms of cable management as there were a lot of cables I wasn't, and probably never will, use. A HX750 would be a fine choice instead right?
 
f0rk said:
Looks like my power supply was DOA, which seems rare. Going to RMA it.
It was a Corsair TX750, and after seeing it I think a modular design would suit me better in terms of cable management as there were a lot of cables I wasn't, and probably never will, use. A HX750 would be a fine choice instead right?

Yup, HX or AX model.
 
scy said:
I was sitting here thinking that I posted some big thing on some IPS and TN panels. Dig it up and find it was in response to you originally anyway, lol.

Anyway, there's two TN panels that spring to mind for the "low-end" price range ($200-$250 or so). The HP 2509b (25" Glossy TN) and the LG W2442PA (24" Non-Glossy TN). I have two of the 2509b's, mostly because it was only $200 about a week ago, and because the fact that it is glossy means it has the better colors and easier-on-the-eyes text (which is pretty big for me on both accounts; lots of anime and manga in addition to normal gaming). The LG is the better gaming monitor, though, what with it having practically no delay on it in practice (minimal, if any, ghosting as well).
Yeah, your first reply was really helpful. I've been using tftcentral for in-depth reviews, thanks to you. I was just throwing out the tn monitor question again to see if anyone might recommend one that I hadn't looked at before. Cuz I've already narrowed down the IPS monitors to just 2 choices, but there are too many TN monitors to keep up with. Thanks again for your help. I couldn't find the 2509b on newegg, but amazon has it for $271. If you got it for $200, that was a steal.
 
Ok GAF I'm ready to make the final upgrades to my PC hopefully with your help I'll be ordering today... the upgrades include Motherboard/CPU/RAM which are listed below...

CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K Processor 3.3GHz

Motherboard: ASUS P8P67 (REV 3.0)

RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 4GB DDR3

What I'd really like to know is if that motherboard is all-around good, especially for overclocking since I will be overclocking in the future to around 4.5Ghz or maybe more when I get the Noctua NH-D14, I need to know if the mobo will allow me to do that or if there will be issues, also if there's other alternatives for other brands with similar features around the same price. Same thing with RAM although these G. SKILL seem to be alright I would think.

As far as the ASUS P8P67 are there any benefits by going with the PRO or beyond editions? I'm really not interested in SLI or the additional eSATA which seem to be the major differences.
 
HD problem... So i ordered the Samsun f3 1tb that was suggested in this thread to me and I can't do anything with it. My bios reads it is there, but there is no option to format it. Windows will say it is there if I go to device manager but I can't format from there or fdisk so... HELP :( I'm lost.

For reference here is the old MOBO I'm trying to hook it into http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131070

I want to try to get it formatted so I can put some data on it before I switch mobo's and cpu's and have to do a fresh install of windows. I'm worried I got a dud drive or something. :(
 
Have you connected BOTH the Sata cable and the power cable for the HDD?

If so, go to Start > Disk Management

right click on your HDD and format
 
Psychotext said:
I'm ashamed to say that I need a little help. I feel like an old man confused by all of the current tech. :(

Basically my local file / web / database / development server just died and I need to transition my PC motherboard / processor / ram over to do the job. I can survive with my laptop for the time being, but I'm going to have to get a new PC, and quick.

Basic Desktop Questions:
Your Current Specs: Core 2 Quad Q6600 / 4GB DDR2 8500 / Gigabyte GA-P35-DQ6 / 4890 1GB
Budget: 800 GBP
Main Use: Gaming, very heavy duty multitasking, 1080p video.
Monitor Resolution: No higher than 1920 x 1200
Are reusing any parts?: GPU, SSD, Case, DVD, PSU (I hope, Thermaltake ToughPower 750W).
When will you build?: Realistically within a month.
Will you be overclocking?: No


Having investigated, I think I'm looking at the following components...

CPU: i7 2600
RAM: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 PC3-12800C8
M/B: Asus P8P67 Pro / Asus P8Z68-V ???
Cooler: ???

I'm really not sure what to go for in the motherboard department, I can't seem to work out what the differences between the different types are. Seems most people advise on the P67 or Z68 but I don't know which is better. What I know for certain is that it should have bulletproof stability, very high performance gigabit networking (an average day sees me transferring terabytes of data), USB 3.0 and run as cool / quiet as possible (the case has three 120mm fans in it, so airflow wont be a problem). I don't care about overclocking functionality, wireless or most other bells and whistles. Stable performance is everything, this machine will likely run 24*7 for the next four or five years.

I don't know what's good in CPU cooler land right now. Am rocking a Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme at the moment, but I'm guessing there's better around these days. Ideally I'd want another 120mm fan job as I need to keep the noise down as much as possible.

I'm fine with keeping my graphics card as is. It's not so modern now, but more important than anything right now is the rest of the machine, specifically the motherboard.

Any assistance anyone can give is greatly appreciated. :)


Same Coolers are still the same.

Coolermaster, Thermaltake, Zalman the same companys have nice CPU coolers.

A lot them though are a little harder to install and need to be installed first before anything else can go in.
 
I have. When I'm in my bios it shows it is SATA 6. And I connected the same power cable powering the lowerdrive. It has two power connectors on that cable.

The drive does not show in disk management.
 
Tendo said:
I have. When I'm in my bios it shows it is SATA 6. And I connected the same power cable powering the lowerdrive. It has two power connectors on that cable.

The drive does not show in disk management.

Needs to be formatted?
 
Have you got another power cable?

I'm lost too...

edit: SATA 6 indicated that it's 6gb/s?

And your mobo only supports up to 3gb/s?
 
Tendo said:
I have. When I'm in my bios it shows it is SATA 6. And I connected the same power cable powering the lowerdrive. It has two power connectors on that cable.

The drive does not show in disk management.

does it show when you go to Start and type

"Create and format hard disk partitions"

that entry should open the disk manager where you can initialize and format the disk

edit: you can also reach it by rightclicking on "Computer" in the Start menu and then selecting "Manage". Now go to storage->disk management in the new window

edit 2 ; if it doesn't show there but does show in device manager, try to read out the SMART status with some tools like Crystaldiskinfo or HD Tune
 
n0n44m said:
does it show when you go to Start and type

"Create and format hard disk partitions"

that entry should open the disk manager where you can initialize and format the disk

edit: you can also reach it by rightclicking on "Computer" in the Start menu and then selecting "Manage". Now go to storage->disk management in the new window

Nope. Nothing there. Just my old internal and external as far as drives go.
 
Kyaw said:
Have you got another power cable?

I'm lost too...

edit: SATA 6 indicated that it's 6gb/s?

And your mobo only supports up to 3gb/s?

Should have been clearer - my mobo must have 6 sata connections and I plugged it into the 6th slot.
 
I've already got a Nvidia GTX460, DVD drive and a HDD from my old build. I want all the other parts new.
I've around €300 to spent. What would you guys recommend me?
 
OK, I've got a few issues.

I currently have my 26" 720p TV hooked up through HDMI from my GTX460 1GB as my main monitor (temporary). It is telling me that 1920x1080 is the native resolution, which I know it's not. When I put it on that res, I can't see the taskbar, top, or sides of the screen. I have to bump it down to a 16somethingX992 res to get everything on screen, but everything (text, video, etc.) looks awful. Any way to fix this or is it just that the TV isn't supposed to be used as a computer monitor? Also, why does it tell me 1080p is native when the TV is only 720p?

Thanks for any help.
 
Gloomfire said:
OK, I've got a few issues.

I currently have my 26" 720p TV hooked up through HDMI from my GTX460 1GB as my main monitor (temporary). It is telling me that 1920x1080 is the native resolution, which I know it's not. When I put it on that res, I can't see the taskbar, top, or sides of the screen. I have to bump it down to a 16somethingX992 res to get everything on screen, but everything (text, video, etc.) looks awful. Any way to fix this or is it just that the TV isn't supposed to be used as a computer monitor? Also, why does it tell me 1080p is native when the TV is only 720p?

Thanks for any help.

Of course its going to look bad your tv is only a 720p tv.

Your graphic card is confused to think your tv can go higher. If it could then it would be clear.
 
Tendo said:
Should have been clearer - my mobo must have 6 sata connections and I plugged it into the 6th slot.
Does the drive show up in the bios? If no, you won't find it in Windows. If that's the case, make sure it's plugs in correctly, data & power cable.



Gloomfire said:
OK, I've got a few issues.

I currently have my 26" 720p TV hooked up through HDMI from my GTX460 1GB as my main monitor (temporary). It is telling me that 1920x1080 is the native resolution, which I know it's not. When I put it on that res, I can't see the taskbar, top, or sides of the screen. I have to bump it down to a 16somethingX992 res to get everything on screen, but everything (text, video, etc.) looks awful. Any way to fix this or is it just that the TV isn't supposed to be used as a computer monitor? Also, why does it tell me 1080p is native when the TV is only 720p?

Thanks for any help.
The TV can take a 1080p signal and downsize it to fit it's resolution. Thus, you computer thinks it can run at 1080p. What you should do is set the computer to run at whatever resolution your TV really displays. And, on the TV, look for option to fit to screen, disable overscan or etc.
 
Psychotext said:
I'm ashamed to say that I need a little help. I feel like an old man confused by all of the current tech. :(

Basically my local file / web / database / development server just died and I need to transition my PC motherboard / processor / ram over to do the job. I can survive with my laptop for the time being, but I'm going to have to get a new PC, and quick.

Basic Desktop Questions:
Your Current Specs: Core 2 Quad Q6600 / 4GB DDR2 8500 / Gigabyte GA-P35-DQ6 / 4890 1GB
Budget: 800 GBP
Main Use: Gaming, very heavy duty multitasking, 1080p video.
Monitor Resolution: No higher than 1920 x 1200
Are reusing any parts?: GPU, SSD, Case, DVD, PSU (I hope, Thermaltake ToughPower 750W).
When will you build?: Realistically within a month.
Will you be overclocking?: No


Having investigated, I think I'm looking at the following components...

CPU: i7 2600
RAM: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 PC3-12800C8
M/B: Asus P8P67 Pro / Asus P8Z68-V ???
Cooler: ???

I'm really not sure what to go for in the motherboard department, I can't seem to work out what the differences between the different types are. Seems most people advise on the P67 or Z68 but I don't know which is better. What I know for certain is that it should have bulletproof stability, very high performance gigabit networking (an average day sees me transferring terabytes of data), USB 3.0 and run as cool / quiet as possible (the case has three 120mm fans in it, so airflow wont be a problem). I don't care about overclocking functionality, wireless or most other bells and whistles. Stable performance is everything, this machine will likely run 24*7 for the next four or five years.

I don't know what's good in CPU cooler land right now. Am rocking a Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme at the moment, but I'm guessing there's better around these days. Ideally I'd want another 120mm fan job as I need to keep the noise down as much as possible.

I'm fine with keeping my graphics card as is. It's not so modern now, but more important than anything right now is the rest of the machine, specifically the motherboard.

Any assistance anyone can give is greatly appreciated. :)


P8P67 PRO and P8Z68-V PRO are identical boards, the latter just has onboard video (it can display a picture with no GPU installed). That's the ONLY difference.. both are built to a high standard and are great boards, I have the Z68 myself. I thought the extra cash was worth it if something happened to my GPU and I needed a temp display.

Also, with that CPU and mobo, you're going to get a bottleneck with a 4890 running newer games.

I'd look at a GTX 560ti or a 6870/6950, and at atleast a 700W PSU (any will do, just make sure efficiency is 80%+).
 
OH laaaawwwddd I'm the BEST!

Just got my soundcard and when I opened the case I realized that two non reference 560 ti in sli take up helluva lot of space.

None of my pci-express slots were even visible. Just before I got mad I said " for once things are going to go my way " and without removing a single component or cable I managed to squeeze in the card holding it with two pens like a couple of bloody chopsticks...

zIwUY.jpg


Look at it! LOOK! You can't even fit a piece of paper between the cpu cooler and the soundcard.
This has truly been my fuck yeah moment of the day.

Allow me to bask in it.



Oh yeah, almost forgot, the sound... it's grreeeaaaat!
 
Corky said:
OH laaaawwwddd I'm the BEST!

Just got my soundcard and when I opened the case I realized that two non reference 560 ti in sli take up helluva lot of space.

None of my pci-express slots were even visible. Just before I got mad I said " for once things are going to go my way " and without removing a single component or cable I managed to squeeze in the card holding it with two pens like a couple of bloody chopsticks...

zIwUY.jpg


Look at it! LOOK! You can't even fit a piece of paper between the cpu cooler and the soundcard.
This has truly been my fuck yeah moment of the day.

Allow me to bask in it.



Oh yeah, almost forgot, the sound... it's grreeeaaaat!

Incredible! I don't even know how you managed that... what sound card btw? Looking into getting a budget one.
 
Jibbed said:
P8P67 PRO and P8Z68-V PRO are identical boards, the latter just has onboard video (it can display a picture with no GPU installed). That's the ONLY difference.. both are built to a high standard and are great boards, I have the Z68 myself. I thought the extra cash was worth it if something happened to my GPU and I needed a temp display.
Z68 allows you to use a SSD disk caching with HDD, similar to hybrid HDD out there. Also, you get Quick Sync which greatly improves encoding time.
 
knitoe said:
Z68 allows you to use a SSD disk caching with HDD, similar to hybrid HDD out there. Also, you get Quick Sync which greatly improves encoding time.

Did not know that!! Cheers, I'll try the disk caching when I get my SSD next week.
 
Jibbed said:
Incredible! I don't even know how you managed that... what sound card btw? Looking into getting a budget one.

It's an asus xonar dx, I reckon it costs around $ 100 across the pond as well. From the little I've tried them I must say I didn't dare to think the difference would be this much going from onboard to this. And I've always thought of myself a person with a good ear.

Going to try out BFBC2 and Dead space 2 the coming days.
 
Corky said:
OH laaaawwwddd I'm the BEST!

Just got my soundcard and when I opened the case I realized that two non reference 560 ti in sli take up helluva lot of space.

None of my pci-express slots were even visible. Just before I got mad I said " for once things are going to go my way " and without removing a single component or cable I managed to squeeze in the card holding it with two pens like a couple of bloody chopsticks...

http://i.imgur.com/zIwUY.jpg

Look at it! LOOK! You can't even fit a piece of paper between the cpu cooler and the soundcard.
This has truly been my fuck yeah moment of the day.

Allow me to bask in it.



Oh yeah, almost forgot, the sound... it's grreeeaaaat![/QUOTE]

Badass man!

Do you have a Home Theater receiver or just normal 5.1 pc speakers?

I really want a sound card since my 5.1 receiver only outputs Stereo on my pc...
 
Kyaw said:
Badass man!

Do you have a Home Theater receiver or just normal 5.1 pc speakers?

I really want a sound card since my 5.1 receiver only outputs Stereo on my pc...

Right now I only got a pair of small logitech Z4 something or other, but I only use the little "receiver" to plug in my Sennheisers. But even these tiny speakers have gotten new life they sound totally different.
 
ThermalTake Element V nVidia edition
i7 950 (corsair h60 hydro cooled)
gigabyte 570 GTX
gigabyte g1-assassin mobo with onboard x-fi (!)
intel 80GB SSD
LG blu-ray drive
Corsair vengeance 6GB triple channel DDR3 ram
750W PSU

All for $1200 CAD after taxes.

Thank god no one bid on those machines after the Memory Express tournament ;D
 
Corky said:
Right now I only got a pair of small logitech Z4 something or other, but I only use the little "receiver" to plug in my Sennheisers. But even these tiny speakers have gotten new life they sound totally different.

I might grab one of these instead of a mechanical keyboard...
 
Kyaw said:
I might grab one of these instead of a mechanical keyboard...
I have the same card. It made my Razer Carcharias headphones sound soooooo much better. I haven't even bothered to plug in my powered Klipsch speakers since my move 3 months ago because they sound that nice. It makes a huge difference on non-powered speakers/headphones.
 
Corky said:
OH laaaawwwddd I'm the BEST!

Just got my soundcard and when I opened the case I realized that two non reference 560 ti in sli take up helluva lot of space.

None of my pci-express slots were even visible. Just before I got mad I said " for once things are going to go my way " and without removing a single component or cable I managed to squeeze in the card holding it with two pens like a couple of bloody chopsticks...

zIwUY.jpg


Look at it! LOOK! You can't even fit a piece of paper between the cpu cooler and the soundcard.
This has truly been my fuck yeah moment of the day.

Allow me to bask in it.



Oh yeah, almost forgot, the sound... it's grreeeaaaat!

Lol, that's some hardcore shit.
 
mkenyon said:
I have the same card. It made my Razer Carcharias headphones sound soooooo much better. I haven't even bothered to plug in my powered Klipsch speakers since my move 3 months ago because they sound that nice. It makes a huge difference on non-powered speakers/headphones.

What soundcard is it? I missed it. I need one with Dolby Digital Live or similar tech.
 
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