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[decaf]

Quick Q...

I'm looking at A customised Shuttle 1366 XPC on SuperBiiz (as they're the only site I can find that ships customised Shuttles internationally - I'm in Japan). It's going to be used as a gaming HTPC.

With the i7-960 and the XFX 5750, would I be able to run Dolphin and PCSX2 at 1080p with AA? How about something like Just Cause 2 or Witcher 2?

 

[SRG01]

Which FM1 motherboard should I buy? There aren't a lot of reviews out yet...

 

[Majima Everywhere System]

So I recently built a new computer. I start up Witcher 1 today, and it skips on the opening video. Fairly odd, but I continue. It take forever to load up a save, but a CTRL+ALT+DEL seems to spur it on. Hang out in a room with an NPC. Everything is running like it should.

I decide to restart, watch the whole opening cinematic to see if it skips again. This is off of steam, not a disc. Anyways, I load a game save, and the game hangs on the loading screen.

I shut the computer off after it froze, and it can't get passed the windows boot screen. I put in the Windows disk, it loads the initial stuff of the disk but gets stuck at a boot screen afterwards.

I'm thinking it's a hard drive. My drive recently started a little bit of a click when it's thinking. Instead of a lot of clicking, I get intermittent clicking like a clock. I put my finger on the hard drive and I can feel it vibrate when these clicks are made. It's a Western Digital 500GB Caviar Blue.

Anyways, do you think the evidence here is enough to send back the hard drive, or should I test anything else first?

 

[fin]

thanks for the advice, so.....

1155 Build 4

Intel i7 2600k 1155 Quad Core (HT) 339
Patriot 12GB PC12800 PX7312G1600LLK 159
ATX : 1155 : DDR3 : Asus : P8Z68 Deluxe 282
AMD6970 or GTX570 365
1000W Silent Pro Gold 211.46
E-ATX CoolerMaster HAF X 189.78
DVD RW 22.77
OCZ Vertex 2 Extended Sandforce 120GB 2.5 SSD 169.99
Total 1739

I'll follow the tips on SSD drives in the OP. But 120gb isn't too much room. I'm assuming it's reserved for the OS and games only?

 

[knitoe]

thanks for the advice, so.....

1155 Build 4

Intel i7 2600k 1155 Quad Core (HT) 339
Patriot 12GB PC12800 PX7312G1600LLK 159
ATX : 1155 : DDR3 : Asus : P8Z68 Deluxe 282
AMD6970 or GTX570 365
1000W Silent Pro Gold 211.46
E-ATX CoolerMaster HAF X 189.78
DVD RW 22.77
OCZ Vertex 2 Extended Sandforce 120GB 2.5 SSD 169.99
Total 1739

I'll follow the tips on SSD drives in the OP. But 120gb isn't too much room. I'm assuming it's reserved for the OS and games only?

1155 are dual channel so you want ram sticks in pairs, 2 or 4. That patriot kit comes in 3 ram sticks. Also, get ram rated at 1.5V. So, get somethig else.

Yes. SSD should be reserve for OS and most used programs. Get a HDD for storage.

 

[darthbob]

If anyone has any experience with onboard sound, I could use some help.

Like I mentioned earlier in this thread, I've got a Crosshair V board, it's got the Supreme FX X-Fi 2 onboard audio, and for the life of me, I can't get any audio from my computer. Granted, I am using the front panel connectors, HD Audio and all that, but should I use the back panel instead?

 

[knitoe]

If anyone has any experience with onboard sound, I could use some help.

Like I mentioned earlier in this thread, I've got a Crosshair V board, it's got the Supreme FX X-Fi 2 onboard audio, and for the life of me, I can't get any audio from my computer. Granted, I am using the front panel connectors, HD Audio and all that, but should I use the back panel instead?

Try the back panel. If it works, try the front. Make sure you select the front panel in Windows Sound option. If it still doesn't work, recheck your wiring.

 

[darthbob]

Try the back panel. If it works, try the front. Make sure you select the front panel in Windows Sound option. If it still doesn't work, recheck your wiring.

Yeah, alright.

The polarity is probably wrong or something...

 

[RS4-]

thanks for the advice, so.....

1155 Build 4

Intel i7 2600k 1155 Quad Core (HT) 339
Patriot 12GB PC12800 PX7312G1600LLK 159
ATX : 1155 : DDR3 : Asus : P8Z68 Deluxe 282
AMD6970 or GTX570 365
1000W Silent Pro Gold 211.46
E-ATX CoolerMaster HAF X 189.78
DVD RW 22.77
OCZ Vertex 2 Extended Sandforce 120GB 2.5 SSD 169.99
Total 1739

I'll follow the tips on SSD drives in the OP. But 120gb isn't too much room. I'm assuming it's reserved for the OS and games only?

Like Knitoe said, get either 2x4 or 4x4 sticks. Remember it's SSD + HDD and you should be good to go. Any reason why you want the z68 though? Not sure if the extra $100 over a p8p67 pro is going to do for you.

 

[Shambles]

So I recently built a new computer. I start up Witcher 1 today, and it skips on the opening video. Fairly odd, but I continue. It take forever to load up a save, but a CTRL+ALT+DEL seems to spur it on. Hang out in a room with an NPC. Everything is running like it should.

I decide to restart, watch the whole opening cinematic to see if it skips again. This is off of steam, not a disc. Anyways, I load a game save, and the game hangs on the loading screen.

I shut the computer off after it froze, and it can't get passed the windows boot screen. I put in the Windows disk, it loads the initial stuff of the disk but gets stuck at a boot screen afterwards.

I'm thinking it's a hard drive. My drive recently started a little bit of a click when it's thinking. Instead of a lot of clicking, I get intermittent clicking like a clock. I put my finger on the hard drive and I can feel it vibrate when these clicks are made. It's a Western Digital 500GB Caviar Blue.

Anyways, do you think the evidence here is enough to send back the hard drive, or should I test anything else first?

HDD clicking is usually an indicator that you should immediately backup all your data since it usually goes out of commission pretty fast. If you can get a full boot up, or boot off a USB stick to run some SMART error detection and get a health report on the drive to know for sure.

 

[RiverBed]

Hey, guys, I'm getting an Ivy Bridge when it releases in March next year, but I need a PC now so I am building a monster now. Is there a mobo that supports Ivy bridge so all I'd have to do is just swap my Sandy Bridge i5 with an Ivy bridge when it releases?

 

[Majima Everywhere System]

HDD clicking is usually an indicator that you should immediately backup all your data since it usually goes out of commission pretty fast. If you can get a full boot up, or boot off a USB stick to run some SMART error detection and get a health report on the drive to know for sure.

Well, it's very faint. It sounds like it isn't pulling information off the HDD very quickly. I don't know if this is the hard drive itself, or some other component causing the hard drive to be accessed abnormally slow (if that's even a possibility)


When I first built the computer and ever afterwards I get a "hard disk not detected!" error as it's going through the start up messages. I was able to install Windows so I ignored it.

The moment I turn the computer on, the harddrive sounds a little more active. Then it tapers off. It ends up at a click here and there once it is struggling at the Starting Windows screen.

There is no data on there but video games. I'll live without the saves if they are gone. Do I risk anything by RMAing it under my current assumptions?

 

[Shambles]

Well, it's very faint. It sounds like it isn't pulling information off the HDD very quickly. I don't know if this is the hard drive itself, or some other component causing the hard drive to be accessed abnormally slow (if that's even a possibility)


When I first built the computer and ever afterwards I get a "hard disk not detected!" error as it's going through the start up messages. I was able to install Windows so I ignored it.

The moment I turn the computer on, the harddrive sounds a little more active. Then it tapers off. It ends up at a click here and there once it is struggling at the Starting Windows screen.

There is no data on there but video games. I'll live without the saves if they are gone. Do I risk anything by RMAing it under my current assumptions?

Just annoyance and downtime. It's worth it to boot off a USB and read the SMART report on the drive. I'm not sure offhand what would be best to use but I'm sure google will know the answer. You could also run memtest to see if your memory is causing issues. I've had steam games hard lock and BSOD systems because of corrupt data. Only after I verified the local data and downloaded fixed files did it stop crashing on one system. Your case however is different since you're freezing up before you even finish booting which usually means either hard drive or memory.

 

[fin]

Thanks again everyone. I switched out the RAM with 4x4GB rated at 1.5V. A quick google says lower voltage is good for heat and speed. Thanks alot for the good info.

Also switched out the motherboard to the P8P67 Pro. Not sure what the deluxe did for me. But if you guys don't know then I'll just trust you and save some money.

1155 Build 5

Intel i7 2600k 1155 Quad Core (HT) $339
8GB/Kit PC12800 Patriot PSD38G1600K (x2) 16GB $167.64
Motherboard : ATX 1155 DDR3 Asus P8P67 Pro R3 $210
AMD6970 or GTX570 $352
1000W Silent Pro Gold $211.46
E-ATX CoolerMaster HAF X $189.78
DVD RW $22.77
OCZ Vertex 2 Extended Sandforce 120GB 2.5IN SATA2 SSD
$169.99
Total $1662.64

Since I'm saving this money maybe I'll go for the GTX580

Then the total = $1832.64

 

[R2D4]

Thanks again everyone. I switched out the RAM with 4x4GB rated at 1.5V. A quick google says lower voltage is good for heat and speed. Thanks alot for the good info.

Also switched out the motherboard to the P8P67 Pro. Not sure what the deluxe did for me. But if you guys don't know then I'll just trust you and save some money.

1155 Build 5

Intel i7 2600k 1155 Quad Core (HT) $339
8GB/Kit PC12800 Patriot PSD38G1600K (x2) 16GB $167.64
Motherboard : ATX 1155 DDR3 Asus P8P67 Pro R3 $210
AMD6970 or GTX570 $352
1000W Silent Pro Gold $211.46
E-ATX CoolerMaster HAF X $189.78
DVD RW $22.77
OCZ Vertex 2 Extended Sandforce 120GB 2.5IN SATA2 SSD
$169.99
Total $1662.64

Since I'm saving this money maybe I'll go for the GTX580

Then the total = $1832.64

Any reason you keep going for the 2600k? The 2500k can do 4.5Ghz and is just as good for gaming. The 2600k has hyperthreading if that matters to you. The 2500k does not.

 

[fin]

Any reason you keep going for the 2600k? The 2500k can do 4.5Ghz and is just as good for gaming. The 2600k has hyperthreading if that matters to you. The 2500k does not.

To get the 4.5Ghz, I'd have to overclock? Then get some aftermarket cooling?

The i5 is about $100 less that the i7

http://www.anandtech.com/bench/Product/288?vs=287

Also found this:
http://www.overclock3d.net/reviews/cpu_mainboard/i7_2600k_i5_2500k_2300_1155_sandy_bridge_review/8

Ill have to do some research with my motherboard and see how it handles overclocking.

 

[The Teachinator]

Just go for the Hyper 212 Fin. Check out micro center as well. If you're stuck on the 2600K as opposed to the 2500K you might be able to swing a better deal there.

I went with the 2600K even though I probably didn't need it. I had the money so I thought why not? If you want to save the $ though the 2500K is a very fine option for gaming and you will see no real world difference. Your build looks great!

 

[chessnut]

To get the 4.5Ghz, I'd have to overclock? Then get some aftermarket cooling?

The i5 is about $100 less that the i7

http://www.anandtech.com/bench/Product/288?vs=287

Also found this:
http://www.overclock3d.net/reviews/cpu_mainboard/i7_2600k_i5_2500k_2300_1155_sandy_bridge_review/8

Ill have to do some research with my motherboard and see how it handles overclocking.

If you're gonna spend that much already, don't even bother installing the stock cooler...get a hyper 212 before you start building. It's a pain to install a cooler after you've put everything in the case.
As far as your processor goes, the 2500k and 2600k give the same performance gaming wise. Hyperthreading is for people who do editting/coding and stuff.

 

[fin]

Ha yeah I remember doing that on my first PC. Have to take the motherboard off the stand-offs to install a new fan...

So i5 2500k with a 212 hyper cooler added on.

1155 Build 6
CPU : Intel : i5 : 2500k : 1155 : Quad Core $231
8GB/Kit PC12800 Patriot PSD38G1600K 2x4GB(x 2)16gb $167.64
Motherboard : ATX 1155 DDR3 Asus P8P67 Pro R3 $210
GTX580 $522
1000W Silent Pro Gold $211.46
E-ATX CoolerMaster HAF X $189.78
DVD RW $22.77
OCZ Vertex 2 Extended Sandforce 120GB 2.5IN SATA2 SSD
$169.99
Cooler Master : Hyper 212 Plus $25.42
Total 1750.06

I'm liking this price. Gonna do some OCing research tomorrow. Thanks everyone for their help.

 

[LordCanti]

Ha yeah I remember doing that on my first PC. Have to take the motherboard off the stand-offs to install a new fan...

So i5 2500k with a 212 hyper cooler added on.

1155 Build 6
CPU : Intel : i5 : 2500k : 1155 : Quad Core $231
8GB/Kit PC12800 Patriot PSD38G1600K 2x4GB(x 2)16gb $167.64
Motherboard : ATX 1155 DDR3 Asus P8P67 Pro R3 $210
GTX580 $522
1000W Silent Pro Gold $211.46
E-ATX CoolerMaster HAF X $189.78
DVD RW $22.77
OCZ Vertex 2 Extended Sandforce 120GB 2.5IN SATA2 SSD
$169.99
Cooler Master : Hyper 212 Plus $25.42
Total 1750.06

I'm liking this price. Gonna do some OCing research tomorrow. Thanks everyone for their help.

Are you going to SLI at some point in the future (sorry if you mentioned this already)? If not, you definitely don't need that 1000w PSU. Something more in the 500-700 range would be absolutely fine, and would cost a lot less money that could be spent elsewhere.

16gb of RAM is also extremely unnecessary, unless you have a specific task in mind that is RAM heavy. I've got 8gb, and it is kind of a waste unless I've got 200+ tabs open or something. It won't do anything for your gaming performance.

The SSD you picked is last gen (Vertex 2 instead of Vertex 3) and quite a bit slower than the newer models. I'd pick either a newer Intel model for stability and longevity, or a Vertex 3 for outright speed (though with some issues).

Other than that, I can't really find anything else to criticize. You could obviously spend less on a case, and less on a mobo, and get similar (if not identical) performance, but if you like the overall look of that case, or if you need a feature that mobo offers, who am I to criticize?

 

[·feist·]

Took long enough.

MSI has finally started selling their custom coolers as a stand-alone item. Good news as you won't find many similar aftermarket coolers this thin, quiet, high performing, or well made. First up is the Twin Frozr II with GTX580/GTX570/GTX480/GTX470/GTX465 compatibility. It's 5,980 yen, and, so far, only being sold in Japan, but hopefully this will be followed by coverage of other Nvidia and ATI/AMD product lines selling globally.

Twin Frozr II
http://www.msi-computer.co.jp/VGA/Twin_Frozr_II/

 

[Movement]

I installed two power fans at the top of my case, my CPU is running about 5 degrees cooler now! I can't seem to tidy the cords up much, though. I don't have a modular PSU and there's just too many cords everywhere.

 

[DodgerSan]

Well, since most of UK gaf were probably asleep, I'll try again

Anyone of any buying experience from Dino PC?

 

[Shambles]

Took long enough.

MSI has finally started selling their custom coolers as a stand-alone item. Good news as you won't find many similar aftermarket coolers this thin, quiet, high performing, or well made. First up is the Twin Frozr II with GTX580/GTX570/GTX480/GTX470/GTX465 compatibility. It's 5,980 yen, and, so far, only being sold in Japan, but hopefully this will be followed by coverage of other Nvidia and ATI/AMD product lines selling globally.

Twin Frozr II
http://www.msi-computer.co.jp/VGA/Twin_Frozr_II/

Over 70 dollars? I know that it won't translate one to one to other markets but don't make me laugh MSI. No one is going to drop that kind of money on that cooler.

 

[Hazaro]

Over 70 dollars? I know that it won't translate one to one to other markets but don't make me laugh MSI. No one is going to drop that kind of money on that cooler.

You'd be surprised. They are probably just testing the waters since the overhead probably isn't that high.

Haven't had much time as of late to respond. Super busy.

 

[Raide]

Well, since most of UK gaf were probably asleep, I'll try again

Anyone of any buying experience from Dino PC?

Funnily enough, I ordered a PC from them a week or two back. It arrives today. If you want next day they can arrange that for an extra cost but if you don't mind waiting, they seem good and the price is pretty reasonable.

Once the PC finally arrives and I install Windows, I will run some tests etc and post some pics up. I went for an Uber Budget system.

 

[darthbob]

I got audio working, however it's only coming through the left channel in my headphones... >_<

 

[evil solrac v3.0]

Took long enough.

MSI has finally started selling their custom coolers as a stand-alone item. Good news as you won't find many similar aftermarket coolers this thin, quiet, high performing, or well made. First up is the Twin Frozr II with GTX580/GTX570/GTX480/GTX470/GTX465 compatibility. It's 5,980 yen, and, so far, only being sold in Japan, but hopefully this will be followed by coverage of other Nvidia and ATI/AMD product lines selling globally.

Twin Frozr II
http://www.msi-computer.co.jp/VGA/Twin_Frozr_II/

japan first??

 

[·feist·]

Japan gets a lot of products first, or ahead of most, even when the company is Taiwanese/Chinese, or from elsewhere. May be on sale in other parts of Asia, though MSI JP seem to be the first to announce it.

Over 70 dollars? I know that it won't translate one to one to other markets but don't make me laugh MSI. No one is going to drop that kind of money on that cooler.

When you look at how many companies do a near 1:1 with the Euro and Yen, instead of market-adjusted conversions, I think $55-65 is possible. That's dangerously close to high end Zalman, Thermalright and Arctic sinks, but they're all a fair bit larger. This is nice for SFFs and users who want more spacing. About the only real drawbacks with the MSI would be PCB cooling, and the mount isn't exactly robust.

I installed two power fans at the top of my case, my CPU is running about 5 degrees cooler now! I can't seem to tidy the cords up much, though. I don't have a modular PSU and there's just too many cords everywhere.

Zipties, patience and plan out the best route for each cable.

 

[Marco1]

Took long enough.

MSI has finally started selling their custom coolers as a stand-alone item. Good news as you won't find many similar aftermarket coolers this thin, quiet, high performing, or well made. First up is the Twin Frozr II with GTX580/GTX570/GTX480/GTX470/GTX465 compatibility. It's 5,980 yen, and, so far, only being sold in Japan, but hopefully this will be followed by coverage of other Nvidia and ATI/AMD product lines selling globally.

Twin Frozr II
http://www.msi-computer.co.jp/VGA/Twin_Frozr_II/

Be very careful with this type of cooler as the VRM cooling is very poor.
Unless you're overclocking your GPU, stick with the stock cooling as if you need to RMA then you are going to have to reinstall the stock cooling anyway.
I have seen VRM's explode with this type of cooler as cards like the GTX580 have no sensors to monitor VRM temps.
Read this:
http://www.overclock.net/nvidia-cooling/985134-ac-xtreme-plus-vr004-review-gtx570.html

 

[Kyaw]

How good are those Twin Frozr coolers compared to the three fan coolers on the Gigabyte GTX480 SOC?

 

[Marco1]

Stick with the gigabyte cooling.

 

[·feist·]

By "PCB cooling" I meant VRM, memory and such. As MSI almost certainly doesn't include any component sinks, you'd have to make provisions for that. Looking at the top coolers from Zalman, Thermalright and Arctic, Arctic easily has the worst VRM solution, but there are ways around that. Didn't read the link, but it's been a known issue for a while, and I don't believe Arctic has gotten around to truly addressing it yet. The problem isn't exactly down to the type of cooler, though.

One of the reasons I've consistently tried to steer people away from lower end motherboards, and certain GPUs, is do to poor, or non-existent stock VRM cooling, especially when overclocking. Always surprised how many don't listen.

 

[RiverBed]

Can someone please take a look at my build before I press buy? (i.e., is the mobo compatible? It isn't one of those defected/recalled models? will the RAM work?) I don't know if I need to buy any SATA cables or something to connect both the disk driver and the HDD to the mobo. I have no parts at home at all, so I need to buy everything.
Can someone suggest cheaper parts to lower the price while keeping the same specs?

here are my parts, I'm buying it as soon as I get the okay from members who know what they are talking about:

TotalpPrice: 1408.85
+Tax 123.27

 

[MidgarBlowedUp]

Save $25, and your computer, delete the Bit Defender.

 

[·feist·]

Can someone please take a look at my build before I press buy? (i.e., is the mobo compatible? It isn't one of those defected/recalled models? will the RAM work?) I don't know if I need to buy any SATA cables or something to connect both the disk driver and the HDD to the mobo. I have no parts at home at all, so I need to buy everything.
Can someone suggest cheaper parts to lower the price while keeping the same specs?

here are my parts, I'm buying it as soon as I get the okay from members who know what they are talking about:

http://i54.tinypic.com/sbm2k9.png
http://i51.tinypic.com/2hrfkmg.png
http://i54.tinypic.com/2l8b4i9.png
http://i53.tinypic.com/6qbls0.png

TotalpPrice: 1408.85
+Tax 123.27

First, the 212+ has an MSRP of $29.99. Don't fall for Newegg's price gouging.

Do you live near a Micro Center?

http://www.microcenter.com/at_the_stores/index.html

$27.99 - 212+
http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0315397
$179.99 - 2500K
http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0354589

Otherwise, buy the 212 for $30, or less from Amazon, and other retailers.

Ram should be fine, as it's 1.5V. You can check the motherboard site for QVL just in case. Board is fairly spartan for a 2500K higher end gaming rig. You'd be better served with a UD3 (or higher), or equivalent Asus, MSI, etc.

I'd avoid about all of Coolmax's PSU OEMs. Try a 550-650W 80+ Bronze/Silver/Gold in the $60-90 range. Seasonic, Corsair, XFX, Antec TP New, etc.

Don't cut corners on your PSU or motherboard.

A lot of us run MSE + Windows Firewall, or a good, free firewall. Add Malwarebytes and/or any other good free scanners, and you can save another $25 from that list.

 

[ConstructMe]

Installed my Hyper 212 Plus, it was a bitch to get in but was well worth it. 35 degree lower temps in Prime95 is exceptional. Just remember to check it fits in yur case because its enormous.

 

[SiriusTexra]

Just got one of these

http://www.logitech.com/en-us/keyboards/keyboard/devices/5123

yesterday, and coupled with my RAT 7 and Wacom, I feel like I've completed the Peripheral Triforce or something.

Analog movement (not all games, WASD for those that don't) + mouse look pretty much is blowing me away, especially on Cry2 since it works great. It needs to have xinput emulated though for the analog to work in games that support 360 controllers, but that's only really a copy paste in each game folder.

 

[ConstructMe]

How is that for FPSs (Cod, Etc)?

 

[Marco1]

As has been stated above, never skimp on the PSU.
It's has to be the most reliable component in your PC.
If it goes bang so will the rest of your PC.
Corsair and enemax are goon PSU's with the corsair RMA policy being a good one.
My frien RMA'd his 5 year old corsair PSU and was given a new modern replacement with no quibbles.

 

[RiverBed]

First, the 212+ has an MSRP of $29.99. Don't fall for Newegg's price gouging.

Thanks for the heads up, I'll be ordering my 212 cpu fan from Amazon.

I don't live near a microcenter, I'm afraid. I wish they'd ship.

Ram should be fine, as it's 1.5V. You can check the motherboard site for QVL just in case.

Yeah, I checked it and it is listed.

Board is fairly spartan for a 2500K higher end gaming rig. You'd be better served with a UD3 (or higher), or equivalent Asus, MSI, etc.

I didn't understand that. What do you mean by UD3? Should I upgrade or downgrade the mobo? Also, am I right in thinking Gigabyte is more relyable than Asus in the mobo department? I was going to get a Gigabyte GPU too, but Asus had an extra plug port. I don't know what it is for, though. lol

I'd avoid about all of Coolmax's PSU OEMs. Try a 550-650W 80+ Bronze/Silver/Gold in the $60-90 range. Seasonic, Corsair, XFX, Antec TP New, etc.

I'll check out the brands you suggested, but is 650W enough for that setup? I went for 1000W just to be safe since I don't really know. I won't go SLI ever.

A lot of us run MSE + Windows Firewall, or a good, free firewall. Add Malwarebytes and/or any other good free scanners, and you can save another $25 from that list.

I remember reading about not needing to buy virus protection anymore since the free ones are good enough. I was on MSE for years till today when I switched to AVG Free just for the heck of it. Should I not buy any protection and stick with free ones?

 

[Marco1]

Yes, stick with MSE,spybot and malware bytes.
No need to buy anything.

 

[SiriusTexra]

How is that for FPSs (Cod, Etc)?

Well, It works great for any game really, but even better for games that support the xinput/emulated joystick. Right now I'm playing through Crysis 2 again, and it works amazingly. Just like a left 360 stick.

Thing is, the joystick operates of direct input, which games won't pickup, if they're good, so you have to basically drop 2 dlls into the game folder where the binaries are, but other than that's it's flawless. If the joystick doesn't work as a proper analog in the game, you can still just assign the stick to be WASD.

One cool thing actually, is to just make the stick jump/crouch. Also very neat.

As I said though, the stick is a bit awkward, but I'm fine with it personally. You can apparently easily mod it though with pulling off the pads on Logitech controllers though.


*e* Actually, there are other brand alternatives to the same thing, but I can't vouch for those.

 

[ConstructMe]

nice thanks for the info i know my next purchase.

 

[RS4-]

Ha yeah I remember doing that on my first PC. Have to take the motherboard off the stand-offs to install a new fan...

So i5 2500k with a 212 hyper cooler added on.

1155 Build 6
CPU : Intel : i5 : 2500k : 1155 : Quad Core $231
8GB/Kit PC12800 Patriot PSD38G1600K 2x4GB(x 2)16gb $167.64
Motherboard : ATX 1155 DDR3 Asus P8P67 Pro R3 $210
GTX580 $522
1000W Silent Pro Gold $211.46
E-ATX CoolerMaster HAF X $189.78
DVD RW $22.77
OCZ Vertex 2 Extended Sandforce 120GB 2.5IN SATA2 SSD
$169.99
Cooler Master : Hyper 212 Plus $25.42
Total 1750.06

I'm liking this price. Gonna do some OCing research tomorrow. Thanks everyone for their help.

Fin you're still spending a lot of money on ram lol. You're in Canada right? Newegg.ca right now has this SS deal: http://www.newegg.ca/Special/ShellShocker.aspx?cm_sp=ShellShocker-_-20-231-315-_-07062011_1 16GB Ripjaws for only $120; if you don't get a chance to go for that deal, go for an 8GB kit from them or Corsair which should cost you half of what you're originally paying for right now.

The Asus P8P67 Pro will OC just fine. The z68 Deluxe you had previously just had the new USB3 controllers and does the IGP stuff which probably won't matter to you since you've settled on a 580. There isn't really a reason to upgrade from the Pro to the p67 deluxe for the extra front USB 3.0 panel since your HAF X case already has one.

Since you planned on doing some video editing, you can go back to the 2600k.

And downgrade your 1000w PSU to something smaller like others have said if you don't plan on going SLI.

Oh and you're still missing another hard drive lol; I'm not sure anyone would be comfortable with SSD only unless it was a laptop.

 

[LordCanti]

I'll check out the brands you suggested, but is 650W enough for that setup? I went for 1000W just to be safe since I don't really know. I won't go SLI ever.


I remember reading about not needing to buy virus protection anymore since the free ones are good enough. I was on MSE for years till today when I switched to AVG Free just for the heck of it. Should I not buy any protection and stick with free ones?

A good 550-650w PSU should be fine (Corsair/Seasonic, etc).

MSE is good enough for most setups as well.

I'm curious; Why are you investing in Blu-Ray burning (media and a drive) at this point? The media is so expensive. You could save $40 right there, just by going from a burner to a drive that only reads. Unless you need the burning capability for something.

You don't have a case listed. Are you reusing one?

Other than that, I don't see any big issues with your build. I'd personally spend more on a keyboard, but that's just me. You could also save money on a stock cooled GTX 570 (about $50) but that is up to personal preference. Others will suggest a different mobo, but everyone seems to have their own opinion on that anyway.

(Oh, and SATA cables will come with your mobo.)

 

[Smokey]

Thanks for the heads up, I'll be ordering my 212 cpu fan from Amazon.

I don't live near a microcenter, I'm afraid. I wish they'd ship.


Yeah, I checked it and it is listed.


I didn't understand that. What do you mean by UD3? Should I upgrade or downgrade the mobo? Also, am I right in thinking Gigabyte is more relyable than Asus in the mobo department? I was going to get a Gigabyte GPU too, but Asus had an extra plug port. I don't know what it is for, though. lol


I'll check out the brands you suggested, but is 650W enough for that setup? I went for 1000W just to be safe since I don't really know. I won't go SLI ever.


I remember reading about not needing to buy virus protection anymore since the free ones are good enough. I was on MSE for years till today when I switched to AVG Free just for the heck of it. Should I not buy any protection and stick with free ones?

1000w PSU is only warranted if your SLIing something like GTX 580s and overclocking various components in addition to those cards.

 

[Raide]

OK, PC finally arrived about 1 hour ago. Windows Vista installed and updates done. It is the stock build that I paid for but I have a 8800GT to install later. Just checking the OP. what kind of benchmarks should I use so I can post up the info for you to see?

 

[Marco1]

The best benchmarks are playing games and are you satisfied with the results?
Don't get involved with benchmark scores unless your PC is not performing as it should.

 

[Raide]

The best benchmarks are playing games and are you satisfied with the results?
Don't get involved with benchmark scores unless your PC is not performing as it should.

Fair enough. I am going to run some of the stress tests first and see how I get on.