"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]
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Futurevoid
Member
Reposting for new page.
Alright so in all of my overclocking newbness, I had my i5 2500k running at 4.5ghz but over the past two days I've been noticing some instability that I'm not liking. So I went with something lower. I have no interest in doing a major OC at the end of the day, I'd just like to feel like I'm taking advantage of the ease of overclocking and a generous speed bump without majorly hampering the longevity of the chip. So I'm posting this pic here and asking if this seem like the proper setting for a fairly mild overclock? I've been running Prime 95 for two hours now without any issues (which I neglected to do with the 4.5oc) but I figured I'd pass it by you folks who are far more savvy on this front...
The temps are pretty constant and the voltage has settled to that point (it has jumped to 1.3 at times).
Alright so in all of my overclocking newbness, I had my i5 2500k running at 4.5ghz but over the past two days I've been noticing some instability that I'm not liking. So I went with something lower. I have no interest in doing a major OC at the end of the day, I'd just like to feel like I'm taking advantage of the ease of overclocking and a generous speed bump without majorly hampering the longevity of the chip. So I'm posting this pic here and asking if this seem like the proper setting for a fairly mild overclock? I've been running Prime 95 for two hours now without any issues (which I neglected to do with the 4.5oc) but I figured I'd pass it by you folks who are far more savvy on this front...
The temps are pretty constant and the voltage has settled to that point (it has jumped to 1.3 at times).
Weird issue that's happening with my pc. Sometimes when I run or open something, sometimes off the SSD or sometimes of the HDD, it'll hang, there will be a hum from the case for a second of so, and then it'll open/start/whathaveyou. Could this be a potential issue down the line? Or is it just a slight annoyance that isn't harmful?
Beaner said:
It sounds like your HDD is going to sleep, and then having to spin back up to read data (this happens on my own computer with my secondary drives). Go to the control panel (assuming you are on windows) and then to "Power Options". Once there, set the drive to never go to sleep, and the issue should be gone. If it's not, then it may be another issue.
Mr Nightman
Banned
well, I am running out of space on my 500gb game hdd, and want to snag another drive for additional space. But before I do, was wondering what a decent beginner ssd drive would be to consider, and just use my os 320gb drive for additional space instead. Any suggestions?
Majima Everywhere System
Member
Shambles said:
So after much patience (Maybe 20 minutes or so) The computer booted. I picked a free SMART test, and it came back with this:
Not sure what to make of it. Yellow ! seems like an issue though.
Would adding a new more power-hungry graphics card screw up my CPU over clock?
I thought I had finally gotten my i5 2500k stable @ 4.5ghz and it did fine for the last week or so. Then my new gtx 560ti arrived yesterday and it replaced my old Radeon 4850 HD. Within 30 minutes of installing the new card and updating drivers, I got 4 BSODs. On the 4th BSOD, my mobo reset back to factory defaults so I left it here. I've had no blue screens since.
I thought I had finally gotten my i5 2500k stable @ 4.5ghz and it did fine for the last week or so. Then my new gtx 560ti arrived yesterday and it replaced my old Radeon 4850 HD. Within 30 minutes of installing the new card and updating drivers, I got 4 BSODs. On the 4th BSOD, my mobo reset back to factory defaults so I left it here. I've had no blue screens since.
Thanks so much for the help, you helped me lower my budget AND get better parts at the same time. I am off to Newegg to press the 'buy' button and waiting for my new build to arrive in two days.LordCanti said:
In the meantime, I'll subscribe to all the major online PC game stores and shop around for some awesome cheap games. C&C4 is only $10.90 from Amazon and Red Alert 3 is around $11 too! WOW! talk about value. PC gaming is so awesome and cheap!
PS. plus I am going to get every major f2p MMO! muhahahah!
knitoe said:
Yeah I did all of that with the drivers. Also made sure to clean out all the old AMD stuff now that I'm running Nvidia.
My PSU is a XClio goodpower 500w. Its 4 years old and rock solid. Got something like 80,000 hours mean-life and I'm not even halfway there yet. My PSU may be too low for overclocking now that I'm using a 560ti. Pushing the PSU too much is a good possibility here. But everything seems to be stable now that its all at factory defaults.
bill0527 said:
Possibly, could also be driver related, since you went AMD -> NVIDIA.
Overclocked CPUs will generally require more Vcore, and thus, take more power from the PSU.
Edit: I didn't read the bottom of this thread very well. Also, my friend had an XClio PSU, piece of crap blew on him, it was an 850W and he was running a single 5870 with an i7 930. I think of that thing ever got anywhere near 850W, it'd have to be at -50C, with crazy ripple and it'd last for only like 5 seconds.
RiverBed said:Thanks so much for the help, you helped me lower my budget AND get better parts at the same time. I am off to Newegg to press the 'buy' button and waiting for my new build to arrive in two days.
In the meantime, I'll subscribe to all the major online PC game stores and shop around for some awesome cheap games. C&C4 is only $10.90 from Amazon and Red Alert 3 is around $11 too! WOW! talk about value. PC gaming is so awesome and cheap!
PS. plus I am going to get every major f2p MMO! muhahahah!
Glad I could help. Be sure to post some pictures whenever you get your build finished.
Thanks again for the input everyone.
I'm not sure if I'll go SLI. I was thinking a GTX580 + 2500k OC'd + 8GBram would be able to handle everything I throw at it, Crysis 2, BF3, that crazy GTA4 mod. If I go SLI is there anything I need to keep in mind, other than the PS, for upgrading?
How much more can I cut the mobo? Is there anything on the current one I have that's dead weight?
I'll be connecting this PC to my receiver for movies, music and gaming. I also got the Line 6 X3Live connecting by USB for recording music. Then do mixing and mastering all that stuff. Don't do much video editing, just cutting clips for a buddies skate video. I've been content with my set-up now for all this stuff. Sticking with the i5 should be an improvement anyways. Or is the i7 2600k worth the $100 for this stuff?
Also could get some advice for cases. I'm not too picky, but need good air flow, easy access to the guts with room to spare.
I've toned down my RAM and power supply. Added 60GB Vertex 3 and a 1TB HD.
I really wish the SSDs weren't so expensive. I'd be more comfortable with a 120gb. But some googling says that the Vertex 3 are the most advanced and get good firmware/driver support. The Intel 320s seem like they are no good, but the 510s are better. Both the Vertex 3s and 510s are very pricey...
1155 Build 7
CPU : Intel i5 : 2500k : 1155 : Quad Core $231
8GB/Kit DDR3 1600mhz 1.5V Ripjaws or Corsairs $90
Motherboard : ATX : 1155 : DDR3 : Asus : P8P67 Pro R3 $210
GTX580 $522
Corsair Professional HX750W $129.99
E-ATX CoolerMaster HAF X $189.78
DVD RW $22.77
OCZ Vertex 3 60GB 2.5IN SATA3 6Gbps $160
WD Caviar Blue 1TB SATA 6GB/S 7200RPM 32MB Cache 3.5IN $65.84
Cooler Master : Hyper 212 Plus $25.42
Total 1646.8
I'm not sure if I'll go SLI. I was thinking a GTX580 + 2500k OC'd + 8GBram would be able to handle everything I throw at it, Crysis 2, BF3, that crazy GTA4 mod. If I go SLI is there anything I need to keep in mind, other than the PS, for upgrading?
How much more can I cut the mobo? Is there anything on the current one I have that's dead weight?
I'll be connecting this PC to my receiver for movies, music and gaming. I also got the Line 6 X3Live connecting by USB for recording music. Then do mixing and mastering all that stuff. Don't do much video editing, just cutting clips for a buddies skate video. I've been content with my set-up now for all this stuff. Sticking with the i5 should be an improvement anyways. Or is the i7 2600k worth the $100 for this stuff?
Also could get some advice for cases. I'm not too picky, but need good air flow, easy access to the guts with room to spare.
I've toned down my RAM and power supply. Added 60GB Vertex 3 and a 1TB HD.
I really wish the SSDs weren't so expensive. I'd be more comfortable with a 120gb. But some googling says that the Vertex 3 are the most advanced and get good firmware/driver support. The Intel 320s seem like they are no good, but the 510s are better. Both the Vertex 3s and 510s are very pricey...
1155 Build 7
CPU : Intel i5 : 2500k : 1155 : Quad Core $231
8GB/Kit DDR3 1600mhz 1.5V Ripjaws or Corsairs $90
Motherboard : ATX : 1155 : DDR3 : Asus : P8P67 Pro R3 $210
GTX580 $522
Corsair Professional HX750W $129.99
E-ATX CoolerMaster HAF X $189.78
DVD RW $22.77
OCZ Vertex 3 60GB 2.5IN SATA3 6Gbps $160
WD Caviar Blue 1TB SATA 6GB/S 7200RPM 32MB Cache 3.5IN $65.84
Cooler Master : Hyper 212 Plus $25.42
Total 1646.8
fin said:
The Intel 320 and 510 are great; the Vertex 3 is not because of the Sandforce issues that still (?) plague them and OCZ does have some spotty quality control issues. And the $160 is expensive because it's a Vertex 3 (not a Vertex 2 or Agility 2 which would be cheaper). Average SSD prices tend to be around $2/GB. So at the moment, with the Vertex 3, you're paying for speed that you might not notice
Where are you ordering from? If it's something like newegg, you can bundle the 2500k + P8P67 Pro for something like $390 instead of your current $440.
fin said:
If you want to save money, there are certainly cheaper motherboards out there. Newegg users seem to have reported quite a few issues with that particular mobo as well. Check out the following (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130583 , http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128502&cm_re=z68-_-13-128-502-_-Product, http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128500&cm_re=z68-_-13-128-500-_-Product)
I suggest the last one, because it specifically lists Dolby Home Theater support. Apparently that is essential in order to get 5.1 in games to a receiver (unless you buy a separate sound card. See the discussion about this a few pages back in one of my posts).
A 750w PSU will not be enough for SLI'd GTX 580's, and it is overkill for one. If you decide not to SLI, you can safely step that back to a cheaper 650w model. If you think you might go SLI in the future, I'd step that up to at least 850, if not more. When researching a PSU, you'll want to find a review or something from someone that has actually SLI'd that card, and made sure it works. If you decide SLI is for you, I'd start here http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139011&Tpk=HX850 and then go up from there http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...256057&cm_re=1000w_PSU-_-17-256-057-_-Product / http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...171056&cm_re=1000w_PSU-_-17-171-056-_-Product / http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151102&cm_re=X850-_-17-151-102-_-Product
Other than that, I guess it could be said that you don't need a nearly $200 case either. A case costing half that (Cooler Master Haf 922, Fractal Design R3) would be sufficient. If you need a full tower, the options narrow down a bit, but I'd definitely be sure you desire a huge (heavy) full tower. I have the Antec 1200 (a full tower) and the thing is an unwieldy rock of a case, whenever I need to swap out a part. My next build will be in a mid-tower for sure.
Everything else looks fine. Like I mentioned before, a product like the Vertex 3 is going to be faster than Intel's latest gen SSD's (320/510), but it is also going to potentially have more problems. Which to go with is completely up to you, although you may not notice the difference in speed between the V2 and the 320.
GodfatherX
Member
so I finally started buying for my rig, got a great deal on an i7 2600k so i upped from my original plan for an i3, and then had to buy a z68 mobo, went about $100 over my planned budget for this "htpc" but really couldnt pass up 1. a i7 for $140, and 2. only giving that i7 4gb of ram.
still went relatively low end on the gpu, a 550 ti, but i can always easily upgrade that later
still went relatively low end on the gpu, a 550 ti, but i can always easily upgrade that later
XiaNaphryz
LATIN, MATRIPEDICABUS, DO YOU SPEAK IT
Is Arctic-Silver 5 still the thermal paste of choice for something like the Prolimatech Megahalems?
chaosblade
Unconfirmed Member
There are better pastes now, I think AS has MX-4 out now. Lots of others I'd get over AS5, honestly.XiaNaphryz said:
XiaNaphryz
LATIN, MATRIPEDICABUS, DO YOU SPEAK IT
Thanks. Heh, shows you how long it's been since I've built a new rig.
GodfatherX
Member
intel retail edge, the misses has an accountLordCanti said:
YianGaruga
Banned
Just ordered this:
Everything is in stock and should be delivered tomorrow. Steam backlog, here I come!
Everything is in stock and should be delivered tomorrow. Steam backlog, here I come!
acheron_xl
Member
Qatar said:
When I was putting together a machine a few months ago, I noticed that the list of vendors in the OP didn't have Cyberpower listed. I got a PC from them back in '04, and was happy enough, but various recent horror stories about Cyberpower and then an incarnation of this thread lead me to use AVADirect instead. Can't say I was displeased.
edit: Yes, I'm too lazy to put a machine together myself.
gatti-man said:
Except for the actual picking of parts. A lot of people don't seem to know the difference between one CPU socket and another. They don't know what ATX is, they never know how much wattage they need in a PSU, they don't know which GPU they need, etc.
If someone gives them a parts list (or a Newegg wishlist) they can probably figure out how to put it together, but getting there seems to be daunting for some people.
I would say watch a video of someone putting a computer together, and see if you couldn't do it yourself. If you can't, know that you'll pay...what...20% more (this is an estimate)? For the privilege of them putting it together for you.
LordCanti said:
Yeah, I mean its almost worth it to just learn and pay the price once then have the skill forever. Just like anything else in life it takes a while at first and maybe you screw it up but overall its a skill worth having, especially if you game.
He shouldnt have an issue picking parts since we can help. I wouldnt let anyone build my computer but me. Im a wire freak, everything needs to flow.
toastyToast
Member
First time I did this was terrifying. Pulling that latch down sounds so much like you're going to snap the mobo in half it isn't funny.gatti-man said:
Class_A_Ninja said:
From Wikipedia:
197 0xC5 Current Pending Sector Count
Lower is better
Count of "unstable" sectors (waiting to be remapped, because of read errors). If an unstable sector is subsequently read successfully, this value is decreased and the sector is not remapped. Read errors on a sector will not remap the sector (since it might be readable later); instead, the drive firmware remembers that the sector needs to be remapped, and remaps it the next time it's written.
198 0xC6 Uncorrectable Sector Count or
Offline Uncorrectable or
Off-Line Scan Uncorrectable Sector Count
Lower is better
The total count of uncorrectable errors when reading/writing a sector. A rise in the value of this attribute indicates defects of the disk surface and/or problems in the mechanical subsystem.
Both are listed as critical errors. The formatting on the wiki page is a lot cleaner than what I've posted here.
XiaNaphryz
LATIN, MATRIPEDICABUS, DO YOU SPEAK IT
It's not that hard to learn at all. Try watching this:Qatar said:
http://www.tested.com/news/video-how-to-build-the-best-1500-gaming-pc-step-by-step/152/
My first time was daunting. I didn't get all of the pins in the push pin heatsink to firmly go down, so it ran with 3/4 for a couple of years. I never had an issue with heat, so I guess it was fine.
It can definitely be done though. It's like putting a lego set together. A child can do it, if they read the instructions.
It can definitely be done though. It's like putting a lego set together. A child can do it, if they read the instructions.
ok thanks for the help, I think I'll do an install myself.
is only the parts from the OT newegg list along with Windows 7 and and case enough?
Also, do you guys recommend getting a six core intel and a quad-core sandy bridge?
also is the Gigabyte G1 Sniper motherboard recommended or should I go for another manufacturer?
is only the parts from the OT newegg list along with Windows 7 and and case enough?
Also, do you guys recommend getting a six core intel and a quad-core sandy bridge?
also is the Gigabyte G1 Sniper motherboard recommended or should I go for another manufacturer?
evil solrac v3.0
Member
Qatar said:
I had them for my first gaming rig. they were...... good. to a point. customer service was sloooooooooow. and the parts were of good quality but could have had betetr build quality, overall I'd say it's best to build yourself. it's like buying a car and not learning how to even change the oil or something.
Qatar said:
Please fill out this template:
Your Current Specs: CPU / RAM (DDR2/DDR3) / Motherboard / GPU
Budget: Price Range + Country
Main Use: Light Gaming, Gaming, Emulation (PS2/Wii), Video Editing, 3D work, general usage (Word, Web, 1080p playback)
Monitor Resolution: What resolution will you be playing your games at? Are you going to upgrade later?
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Self Explanatory
Are reusing any parts?: List make and model (e.g. Corsair 520HX 520W)
When will you build?: When do you want your computer, do you need it in a week, can you wait a month or two?
Will you be overclocking?: Yes, No, Maybe (This means yes)
Right now, it's just too hard to say which parts would be best for you.
Ive built four computers, one with custome dual loop watercooling for dual gpus and cpu. Yet I still to this day triple check my cpu before pulling that lever down, painstakingly sand the top of the cpu down to the copper and put the best thermal paste at the time on top just to OC to 4ghz and leave it be lol. After 4ghz the heat isnt worth it to me for the small gains.toasty_T said:
LordCanti said:
Exactly. Deciding on a monitor if you dont already have one is probably where you should start first believe it or not. The reason being if you want big like an HP ZR30W for example you are going to need big hardware to push it.
Your Current Specs:
EDIT: Budget: $1800 or lower, in the US "
Main Use: Heavy gaming and 1080p playback
Monitor Resolution: I will think about the monitor later. I would probably get a good one though.
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: think Battlefield 3 or Rage on a high setting
Are reusing any parts?: no I don't have any parts.
When will you build?: I want it within a week or two.
Will you be overclocking?: No
what I want are specs that could live to be very decent for a few years, thats why I'm thinking of getting high specs.
EDIT: Budget: $1800 or lower, in the US "
Main Use: Heavy gaming and 1080p playback
Monitor Resolution: I will think about the monitor later. I would probably get a good one though.
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: think Battlefield 3 or Rage on a high setting
Are reusing any parts?: no I don't have any parts.
When will you build?: I want it within a week or two.
Will you be overclocking?: No
what I want are specs that could live to be very decent for a few years, thats why I'm thinking of getting high specs.
Qatar said:
I would start with the $1000 build on the first page. No one knows how Battlefield 3 or Rage will run on current hardware, but a GTX 580 would probably stand a better chance than the GTX 570 in the $1000 build, so I'd make that upgrade (+$200). Other than that, I'd add an SSD for games and the OS (Intel 320's or Intel 510's come highly recommended it seems) (+$150-$200) to go with the HDD for storage. Beyond that, you've got to ask a few questions: The first, will you ever SLI? If not, you could sub out the 750w corsair model in that build, for a cheaper 650w model. If so, you'll need something more along the lines of an 850-1000w PSU (Corsair and Seasonic are my picks for brands). If you want to save money, you could do without the SSD.
Other than that, just pick a case from the list, and you should be good to go. Pick one of the quiet ones for non-SLI, or one of the others (like the HAF 922) for SLI, to take advantage of the additional cooling. Be sure to show us a list of your final parts before you buy, so we can go over them.
LabouredSubterfuge
Member
Hey guys, I'm thinking of getting the 120GB OCZ Agility 3 SSD. Can anyone vouch for it or is there better out there for equivalent price?
LabouredSubterfuge said:
I have the OCZ vertex 3 120GB and I love it.
Only have my OS and utilities installed though.
Read this:
http://www.overclock.net/ssd/929553-win-7-ssds-setup-secrets.html
Turn AHCI on in bios.
Only have the SSD connected when first installing the OS.
Disable hibernation and superfetch.
Disable power option and sleep.
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