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[Hazaro]

Gah, I'm really torn here

based on the advice I got from this thread I came to the conclusion that I should get:

Cooler Master CM 690 II Advanced Black
MSI P67A-GD65 B3, Socket-1155
Intel® Core™ i5-2500K Processor
Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus
ASUS GeForce GTX 560Ti 1GB PhysX CUDA
Sony Optiarc DVD±RW Burner, AD-7260S
Corsair Vengeance™ DDR3 1600MHz 8GB CL9
Corsair TX V2 750W PSU
Western Digital Caviar® Blue 500GB
Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium

for a total of 9743 SEK

I went with the smaller hard drive because according to the stats it was more reliable and the GTX because it had more/better display ports.

But then I got the crazy idea to mess around with komplett's "Configure Ready-Made computer" function one last time, and found that I can get:

Same CPU
Same Motherboard
Same DVD
Same Hard Drive
Same RAM
Same OS
Cooler Master Elite 430 Midi Tower Black
ZOTAC GeForce GTX 560Ti 1GB AMP!
Corsair HX 750W PSU
Stock CPU Cooler that comes with the i5

for a total of 9340 SEK
AND they build it and install everything for me

What should I do, GAF? Is the ready-made setup a valid alternative, or is the CPU cooler that comes with the i5 crap? In the customer reviews one guy said the fan was quiet and another guy said it was moderately loud. Is this a problem for me? I use headphones, and the sound from my current computer doesn't bother me at all.

Getting my computer built for me is worth a lot to me, but I need just one more bit of advice before I can decide.
Is the alternative, ready-made setup a good choice or is there something that nerfs it badly?

Spoiler

I have chronic can't-decide syndrome

PSU is better. Case is worse and you are missing an extra cooler. I'd go with what you had. Both are very similar.

Any ideas on a cheap GPU for Football Manager 2011? Cousin wants a new system and FM is probably the most strenuous thing it will get to do. I know it wont take much but i have no idea.

Thanks

Sub $100 market is pretty crappy. I'd rather say to get a 6770, better than a really gimped $60 card. If that's too much then you can look at 6570. I think.
Under $100 I'd just recommend the 4850 but it looks like the last of that stock cleared up.

 

[Unknown Soldier]

Only really matters if you want to boot off it.

That's no problem, I use an SSD as the boot drive in the media center PC. So I plug the thing in, and see if Win7 understands it or not? I was reading up and apparently people were going into Disk Management and manually changing the formatting option in order to make it see all 3TB or something.

 

[sinxtanx]

PSU is better. Case is worse and you are missing an extra cooler. I'd go with what you had. Both are very similar.

I can switch it so I have the same case as well, which would bring the total to 9863 SEK.
Am I really missing a cooler? There is one bundled with the CPU, is it really that bad that it has to be replaced?

EDIT: I very much like the thought of not having to build it myself. My hands are made to destroy.

 

[Hazaro]

I can switch it so I have the same case as well, which would bring the total to 9863 SEK.
Am I really missing a cooler? There is one bundled with the CPU, is it really that bad that it has to be replaced?

EDIT: I very much like the thought of not having to build it myself. My hands are made to destroy.

Oh if they assemble that one, then sure go for it. Stock cooler isn't bad. Will limit any 4.0GHz+ overclock, but a nice healthy 4.0 should be fine.

Go for that if you don't feel comfortable putting it together yourself.

 

[sinxtanx]

Oh if they assemble that one, then sure go for it. Stock cooler isn't bad. Will limit any 4.0GHz+ overclock, but a nice healthy 4.0 should be fine.

Go for that if you don't feel comfortable putting it together yourself.

Oh goodie. I did some quick research just now, and yes, I never considered overclocking this, so I probably don't need better cooling. But 4GHz you say? Maybe I can get my friend who's good with hardware to do it...
Thanks for taking your time answering my stupid questions!
The spirit of this thread has inspired me to maybe build the computer after this one myself...but that is a few years away.
NOW - I WILL BUY

EDIT: THIS CONTRACT IS SEALED
but to pay I'll have to go to the bank, get a note that says the post office should have X money (yes payment is handled via the post office) then when it has been delivered go to the post office, hand them the note and then I get my computer. That's one extra place to go to. That's as many as 0.1 tens. And that's terrible.

 

[Deputy Moonman]

Some encouraging news. Got everything put together, and all the wires attached. My friend brought over a small monitor since mine hasn't come in yet (also, I still don't have windows7), and we booted up the computer using an Ubuntu disk just to check on everything. Drives are recognized and everything seems to be in working order. I'm cautiously optimistic thus far about not having any DoA pieces. Still have to test out the drives and the memory.

I'll post pics of the interior of the case later tonight. I have no camera... and my phone camera is worthless. So I have to use a friend's.

I had a time getting the Hyper 212 Plus cooler on, but that's mainly because the included instructions blow and I was inserting the X-shaped retention plate 90 degrees off. Go figure... Also, I inserted the graphics card (GTX 570) too soon and had to take it back out because it was covering the SATA ports on the mobo (P67 extreme4). I'd have to say that, so far, I'm really happy with the Lancool PC-K62 case and how simple it makes installing everything. Plenty of room and almost everything is toolless (only the motherboard required screws).

 

[darkblade77]

Can someone give me some good pointers on where to start with a mATX/ITX build? I like the idea of having a small-yet-powerful machine I can run modern titles on; the Fusion thread got me interested.

I'd want something with an optical drive and USB 3.0 ports, and ideally decent support for a SSD if I was to place one in there.

I'd be running titles around 720p res or so; ideally with some mild postprocessing(mostly AA).

A form factor small enough for me to literally place the case into a medium-to-large-sized backpack(or a formal carrying case if those exist) would be great; I'm not sure where that fits in.

I did some old searching but I didn't see anything definitive for the whole thing except that some Lian Li and Silverstone cases were recommended, and the last dedicated topic was from 2008.

 

[LogicStep]

I'm going to get a new card and I want the GTX570. I'm looking at these two, the price difference is $10. It's the same card except one is factory overclocked and the other isn't.

EVGA GTX570 factory overclocked: $344.99
EVGA GTX570 stock: $334.99

Both have lifetime limited warranty. I really don't know which one to get considering I don't really know how overclocking works and how it affects components. I don't know if that factory overclocked card is going to perform at such a level that it makes a big difference compared to the stock one. I also don't know if the stock one will be more stable or just be less prone to breaking down etc. If I don't plan on overclocking anything in my rig, which one should I get? Price difference is so small I could go either way.

 

[phillax]

Hey PC GAF.

I'm looking to buy a laptop, but I'm on a $700 budget, give or take. I want to use it to play PC games, but also for graphic design stuff. I'm eyeing Apple's offerings, but I'm worried by how expensive they are in relation to screen sizes, even as far as their refurbished stuff goes.

Where's the best place I can get the most bang for my buck, or what particular model from whatever company?

Since you're on a $700 budget check out HP's dv6z Quad Edition laptop series.

 

[toastyToast]

Yeah buddyyyyy

 

[RS4-]

Nice temps and speed.

 

[darthbob]

Yeah buddyyyyy

What cooler are you using?

 

[LiquidMetal14]

You barely don't match my temps off the Hyper 212 I got in the OP. Great temps for that speed.

I recall getting 63 on my last test about 3 months ago.

 

[toastyToast]

What cooler are you using?

Thermalright Silver Arrow.

It's a big bastard. I can barely close my case door.

 

[RS4-]

Thermalright Silver Arrow.

It's a big bastard. I can barely close my case door.

Good thing you didn't get the Archon, you wouldn't have been able to close it at all lol

 

[Cptkrush]

Ok guys, I have a friend that's getting a build together and I've been able to help him sufficiently until now. RAM is something i'm not too knowledgeable on so I bring this question to you.

On this MOBO Which supports Dual Channel only http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131767

would it be better to run the DDR3 1600 Tri Channel 3x2 gig set here:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231225

or the DDR3 1066 Dual Channel 2x4 gig here:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...&cm_re=G.SKILL_Ripjaws-_-20-231-308-_-Product

Not sure what the speed repercussions would be running tri channel in a dual channel board

 

[knitoe]

Ok guys, I have a friend that's getting a build together and I've been able to help him sufficiently until now. RAM is something i'm not too knowledgeable on so I bring this question to you.

On this MOBO Which supports Dual Channel only http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131767

would it be better to run the DDR3 1600 Tri Channel 3x2 gig set here:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231225

or the DDR3 1066 Dual Channel 2x4 gig here:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...&cm_re=G.SKILL_Ripjaws-_-20-231-308-_-Product

Not sure what the speed repercussions would be running tri channel in a dual channel board

If dual channel, you want to run ram sticks in pairs. Performance will be hinder if you go 3 sticks.

 

[leroidys]

Thanks for the recs everyone, I ended up going with the Samsung F3 1TB!

 

[Grimm Fandango]

My friend got royally screwed by a Lian Li case. He bought a case from newegg, turned out to be defective, and now must pay $23 in shipping to return it back. Because Lian Li has awful customer service.

Please think twice before buying their stuff.

 

[Deputy Moonman]

Pics of the PC after putting everything in. I could probably clean up the cables a bit:

 

[Hazaro]

Looking good!

I'm going to get a new card and I want the GTX570. I'm looking at these two, the price difference is $10. It's the same card except one is factory overclocked and the other isn't.
If I don't plan on overclocking anything in my rig, which one should I get? Price difference is so small I could go either way.

Buy the stock one and use MSI Afterburner to overclock it to those speeds.
You'll want to set it up anyway because it has a custom fan profile. It's as easy as dragging a slider and hitting save.

Yeah buddyyyyy

That's bullshit. Trade me your CPU.

Ok guys, I have a friend that's getting a build together and I've been able to help him sufficiently until now. RAM is something i'm not too knowledgeable on so I bring this question to you.

On this MOBO Which supports Dual Channel only http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131767

would it be better to run the DDR3 1600 Tri Channel 3x2 gig set here:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231225

or the DDR3 1066 Dual Channel 2x4 gig here:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...&cm_re=G.SKILL_Ripjaws-_-20-231-308-_-Product

Not sure what the speed repercussions would be running tri channel in a dual channel board

Well your board needs to support tri-channel for starters. And you'd be running single channel with that.

Get dual channel. Tri channel doesn't even offer and performance benefit in real usage anyway.

 

[Ryusei]

After the long wait! I am posting from my brand new pc.



special thanks to Hazaro, TheExodu5, and Wallach (along with many others) for build pointers. Another thanks to Conceptor, Xclash, <3 Memes and Vertopci for pre-build pep talk. My first attempt it didn't work but after about 15 to 20 minutes of triple checking my work I realized I switched the power light and power switch in the header. I'm glad nothing went seriously wrong. Money well spent!

 

[black_vegeta]

Pics of the PC after putting everything in. I could probably clean up the cables a bit:
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q253/sponger14/IMG_6845.jpg
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q253/sponger14/IMG_6841.jpg
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q253/sponger14/IMG_6844.jpg
http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q253/sponger14/IMG_6847.jpg

I have the same case for my more recent build. My cable management is pretty good. I was even able put the power cable that is hanging in front of your video card behind the case using an extension.

I'll some pics when I get home from vacation.

 

[Kadey]

Which sandy bridge motherboard is the one that will let me overclock again? I want to overclock my 2600k to at least 4.0ghz.

 

[ConstructMe]

Which sandy bridge motherboard is the one that will let me overclock again? I want to overclock my 2600k to at least 4.0ghz.

P67 or Z68

 

[Wallach]

I'm going to get a new card and I want the GTX570. I'm looking at these two, the price difference is $10. It's the same card except one is factory overclocked and the other isn't.

EVGA GTX570 factory overclocked: $344.99
EVGA GTX570 stock: $334.99

Both have lifetime limited warranty. I really don't know which one to get considering I don't really know how overclocking works and how it affects components. I don't know if that factory overclocked card is going to perform at such a level that it makes a big difference compared to the stock one. I also don't know if the stock one will be more stable or just be less prone to breaking down etc. If I don't plan on overclocking anything in my rig, which one should I get? Price difference is so small I could go either way.

Well, if you're really adamant about not doing any personal overclocking, you might consider the OC one since it would be covered under their warranty. Chances are you could just buy the cheaper one and OC it to those specs no problem and save the ten bucks, though. Not a big difference either way really, so I'd go with what you're more comfortable with.

 

[Kadey]

P67 or Z68

Thanks. But pertaining to the Asus ones. Theres like the PRO, deluxe, LE or whatever. Which one do you think I should get? I don't need anything fancy or overboard. Just something to run all my stuff.

 

[ConstructMe]

Thanks. But pertaining to the Asus ones. Theres like the PRO, deluxe, LE or whatever. Which one do you think I should get? I don't need anything fancy or overboard. Just something to run all my stuff.

Ive got a P67 Pro and it overclocks great with a 2500k.

 

[BasicMath]

Thanks. But pertaining to the Asus ones. Theres like the PRO, deluxe, LE or whatever. Which one do you think I should get? I don't need anything fancy or overboard. Just something to run all my stuff.

There's a chart in the OP that can help you identify the differences between models. Personally, I wouldn't go beyond the PRO, but check the chart to see if the features in the other models interest you.

 

[ConstructMe]

There's a chart in the OP that can help you identify the differences between models. Personally, I wouldn't go beyond the PRO, but check the chart to see if the features in the other models interest you.

Yeah anything above the pro is overkill.

 

[Kyuuketsu_Night]

I have the perfect shiny pink/red & purple led set up running through my head, ha!

Your Current Specs: i3 380M / 4GB (DDR3) / ohgodidonno D: / i3 1GB GDDR3
Budget: $1000 - $1400 ;_; / Japan =x
Main Use: Gaming, Emulation (PS2/Wii), general usage, multitasking...
Monitor Resolution: 1920x1080
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Crysis 2, TW2, etc
Are reusing any parts?: Oh God no =(
When will you build?: Christmas 2011 or sometime in early 2012
Will you be overclocking?: Maybe =)

So far... after reading and checking videos on the youtubes I've put this together:

Case: Transparent Clear Acrylic ATX Mid Tower $60 (going to light it up!)
CPU: AMD Phenom II X4 965 BE 3.4GHz AM3 125W Quad-Core $130
MOBO: MSI 890FXA-GD70 AM3 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX AMD $195
GPU: SAPPHIRE HD 6870 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support VC $175
PSU: Rosewill LIGHTNING Series 800W ATX12V/EPS12V 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Modular Active-PFC PS $160
RAM: 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) $60
DVD/we DRIVE: LG Blu-ray Drive SATA OEM LightScribe Support $60
SSD: Crucial M4 2.5" 64GB SATA III MLC Internal SSD $116
HDD: Western Digital 500GB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal HD -Bare Drive $60
Monitor: Asus VE248H Black 24" Full HD HDMI LED Backlight LCD Monitor w/Speakers $200

Total: $1216

I'm missing fans and such I guess... I think water/liquid coolers are nice but would it be necessary? Also, even though my build is kind of mid-range, any chance of bottlenecking?... I am a total noob.

I don't care toooo much about lots of storage... I chose the HDD because of speed... do you think it's worth it?

Lastly, can I afford to skimp on the mobo or does that seem fine? and could the CPU be better? I mean, I'm not gonna build this for a while and I'm thinking the parts are going to change months down the road anyway. Hmm

 

[I H8 Memes]

GAF I have my phone and internet through this cable modem

http://www.electrohut.com/products/...203C-DOCSIS-2.0-Cable-Modem,-Refurbished.html

It only has one outgoing internet connection. I'm going to need to be able to connect 2 devices to the internet soon (hardline not wifi). What do I need to buy to make this work. Or do I need to contact Brighthouse and get a router through them?

 

[R2D4]

GAF I have my phone and internet through this cable modem

http://www.electrohut.com/products/...203C-DOCSIS-2.0-Cable-Modem,-Refurbished.html

It only has one outgoing internet connection. I'm going to need to be able to connect 2 devices to the internet soon (hardline not wifi). What do I need to buy to make this work. Or do I need to contact Brighthouse and get a router through them?

Get a router.

 

[Veins]

GAF I have my phone and internet through this cable modem

http://www.electrohut.com/products/...203C-DOCSIS-2.0-Cable-Modem,-Refurbished.html

It only has one outgoing internet connection. I'm going to need to be able to connect 2 devices to the internet soon (hardline not wifi). What do I need to buy to make this work. Or do I need to contact Brighthouse and get a router through them?

You need a router.

 

[JAD0109]

Hey again guys.

So the good news is I got my new computer all set up and running without any issues whatsoever. I'll OC the CPU/GPU soon.

The bad news is, my mom's boyfriend helped me put it together, and he put too much AS5 paste on my CPU. Instead of a pea-sized amount, it was closer to four to six peas. Reading about too much thermal paste got me a bit paranoid but my temps have been perfect so I decided to leave it be for a while but I don't want to risk something getting screwed up. What's the best way to make sure I can separate the cpu and cooler without damaging either?

Bonus question: What's the best configuration for Fraps (such as FPS/size/etc) when recording games (for Youtube)? Would like to be able to record smoothly without worrying about stutter during multiplayer.

EDIT: removed cooler swap

 

[LordCanti]

Hey again guys.

So the good news is I got my new computer all set up and running without any issues whatsoever. I'll OC the CPU/GPU soon.

The bad news is, my mom's boyfriend helped me put it together, and he put too much AS5 paste on my CPU. Instead of a pea-sized amount, it was closer to four to six peas. Reading about too much thermal paste got me a bit paranoid but my temps have been perfect so I decided to leave it be for a while, until...

Today I found the Corsair H50 water cooler on sale, so I'm going to swap my CM Hyper 212+ out for it. Thing is, won't the 212 be a bitch to get off since there's so much paste on it? What can I do to get it off without risking screwing up a $300 CPU?

Bonus question: What's the best configuration for Fraps (such as FPS/size/etc) when recording games (for Youtube)? Would like to be able to record smoothly without worrying about stutter during multiplayer.

If your temps are fine, I wouldn't worry about it. Unless you really just want to switch to the H50 for looks or something (I don't know how much it's going to do for your temps).

If you still insist, the old method (I'm not sure if there is a new method) was to very gently, and very slowly, turn the heatsink back and forth (almost a wiggle) in the same plane as the mobo (horizontally in other words). Don't apply any force either down toward the CPU, or up, until you are sure that it is dislodged. I've also heard it suggested that you should heat the CPU first (using Prime 95, or another such program) to loosen the paste. Obviously you should undo the pins first, and the backplate, or the thing is never coming off. You'll also want the case on its side, so that the weight of the heatsink isn't on the cpu.

Edit: You beat me.

You need a router.

A switch would work as well. May be cheaper/easier to configure (no configuration usually).

 

[Lasthope106]

Some really sexy builds int the last few pages. Good job guys!

 

[I H8 Memes]

Any recommendations? I wouldnt even ask if it wasnt for it needing the phone connection from the router. Never used phone through cable until a couple of weeks ago.

A switch would work as well. May be cheaper/easier to configure (no configuration usually).

Or this? I have to buy a tv and build a pc to hook up to the tv as we are going to just get rid of cable, so the cheaper the better.

 

[LordCanti]

Any recommendations? I wouldnt even ask if it wasnt for it needing the phone connection from the router. Never used phone through cable until a couple of weeks ago.




Or this? I have to buy a tv and build a pc to hook up to the tv as we are going to just get rid of cable, so the cheaper the better.

Depending on whether you need gigabit ethernet or not, the cheapest one on Newegg is like $15. The gigabit switch I use was $30 or so.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...BESTMATCH&Description=Trendnet+Switch&x=0&y=0

(I suggest trendnet switches, if for no other reason than because all of them seem to be highly rated on Newegg. The one I have has never screwed up on me, at least. There are other brands to choose from, obviously.)

 

[I H8 Memes]

Sorry to keep asking but I suck at networking. I'm great with pc hardware and always finding what is wrong with a PC, but anything networking not so much.

What do you mean by gigabit ethernet? Is there a limit on the amount of data transferred depending on the switch? My max speed downloading is around 1.3 megabytes per second actual so I wouldnt need a switch capable of much faster then that.

How do I connect the cable modem up to the switch? Looking at the back of the switch it only shows 5 ethernet connections. Do I connect the cable phone/internet modem up to port 1 of the switch then connect the 2 devices I need online up to some of the other ports?

 

[LordCanti]

Sorry to keep asking but I suck at networking. I'm great with pc hardware and always finding what is wrong with a PC, but anything networking not so much.

What do you mean by gigabit ethernet? Is there a limit on the amount of data transferred depending on the switch? My max speed downloading is around 1.3 megabytes per second actual so I wouldnt need a switch capable of much faster then that.

How do I connect the cable modem up to the switch? Looking at the back of the switch it only shows 5 ethernet connections. Do I connect the cable phone/internet modem up to port 1 of the switch then connect the 2 devices I need online up to some of the other ports?

Yep, you've got it. You connect a single ethernet cable from the modem to the switch, and then connect all your devices to the switch using ethernet cables.

Gigabit ethernet is really only important if you are doing file transfers between computers on your home network (for backups, for instance). For everything else, 100mbps is plenty. Your connection to the internet isn't going to get any faster or slower, depending on which speed you choose.

 

[I H8 Memes]

Thanks for the help. Much cheaper and easier solution then I expected.

 

[Sanjay]

What cooler are you using?

The real question is where the fuck does he live? North pole or south?

 

[knitoe]

Thanks for the help. Much cheaper and easier solution then I expected.

To connect 2 or more device to the internet using only 1 IP address, you need to use a router. A switch does not work. Look for N gigabit router.

 

[LordCanti]

Thanks for the help. Much cheaper and easier solution then I expected.

No problem. Good luck with your PC build.

To connect 2 or more device to the internet using only 1 IP address, you need to use a router. A switch does not work. Look for N gigabit router.

I've got the same setup he does. A cable modem, into a switch, that feeds multiple devices (computer, xbox, etc).

I don't have the same modem, but I don't see why it should be any different. Unless I'm overlooking something here.

Edit: I'm going through that modem's manual

Edit 2: From the manual:

"How Many Ethernet Network Devices Can I Connect?
The WebSTAR Cable Modems can support several Ethernet network devices
using external Ethernet hubs that must be purchased separately. The maximum
number of Ethernet network devices supported is by the cable modem is 63.
However, under normal circumstances, the number of devices connected should
be a much lower number. Contact your service provider for more information on
the maximum number of Ethernet network devices to connect to the cable
modem in order to maintain optimal network performance."

It sounds like the modem has its own NAT capabilities. Why won't a switch work? Am I still overlooking something?

Final Edit (I hate to go outside when it is 110 degrees, but groceries need purchasing): Unless I've gone completely mental, that modem IS a router, with NAT tables (it can do one connection over USB, and one over Ethernet. That means it can assign at least those two IP addresses. The manual sounds like it can do 63 over Ethernet). It should plug right into the switch, and not have any problems. If it does have problems, it is a bigger POS than I could have possibly imagined.

I'll grant that a router would have worked the same, but routers are much more prone to failure, much more in need of upkeep, and just generally more complicated than a switch (a switch won't erect its own firewall, and choke off Xbox Live, PSN, Torrents, etc).

Switches have worked for me through AT&T DSL, Comcast Cable, U-Verse, etc. I've never had any issues. If it doesn't work for him, I will feel like a tool.

 

[f0rk]

Having problems with my wired 360 controller. It worked fine on my new PC before it died.

On my old one I install the drivers and my computer blue screens when I plug it in. After restarting I can see it in control panel>devices but it doesn't work. The guide button light comes on when I plug it for just a second. One time the light continuously blinked and it still didn't work but I can't recreate it now. I've tried installing and reinstalling the drivers several times, some with restarts inbetween plugging it back in.
I think it might be a problem with motionjoy drivers I was using before for my DS3. I uninstalled that program but the drivers seem to still run the 360 controller. How do I get rid of them?

 

[cartman414]

I have the perfect shiny pink/red & purple led set up running through my head, ha!

Your Current Specs: i3 380M / 4GB (DDR3) / ohgodidonno D: / i3 1GB GDDR3
Budget: $1000 - $1400 ;_; / Japan =x
Main Use: Gaming, Emulation (PS2/Wii), general usage, multitasking...
Monitor Resolution: 1920x1080
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Crysis 2, TW2, etc
Are reusing any parts?: Oh God no =(
When will you build?: Christmas 2011 or sometime in early 2012
Will you be overclocking?: Maybe =)

So far... after reading and checking videos on the youtubes I've put this together:

Case: Transparent Clear Acrylic ATX Mid Tower $60 (going to light it up!)
CPU: AMD Phenom II X4 965 BE 3.4GHz AM3 125W Quad-Core $130
MOBO: MSI 890FXA-GD70 AM3 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX AMD $195
GPU: SAPPHIRE HD 6870 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support VC $175
PSU: Rosewill LIGHTNING Series 800W ATX12V/EPS12V 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Modular Active-PFC PS $160
RAM: 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 1333 (PC3 10666) $60
DVD/we DRIVE: LG Blu-ray Drive SATA OEM LightScribe Support $60
SSD: Crucial M4 2.5" 64GB SATA III MLC Internal SSD $116
HDD: Western Digital 500GB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal HD -Bare Drive $60
Monitor: Asus VE248H Black 24" Full HD HDMI LED Backlight LCD Monitor w/Speakers $200

Total: $1216

I'm missing fans and such I guess... I think water/liquid coolers are nice but would it be necessary? Also, even though my build is kind of mid-range, any chance of bottlenecking?... I am a total noob.

I don't care toooo much about lots of storage... I chose the HDD because of speed... do you think it's worth it?

Lastly, can I afford to skimp on the mobo or does that seem fine? and could the CPU be better? I mean, I'm not gonna build this for a while and I'm thinking the parts are going to change months down the road anyway. Hmm

AMD CPUs, especially at that price bracket, tend to be for value/stopgap rigs. Grab a 2500k (2600k if you find the need for video editing and other mutithread-heavy apps), and something like the ASUS P8P67/P8Z68 PRO instead.

I'm not sure how much of a difference the SATA 6.0 will make for HDD speed. It is, after all, for media storage, with the SDD taking care of the key apps, right?

 

[LordCanti]

AMD CPUs, especially at that price bracket, tend to be for value/stopgap rigs. Grab a 2500k (2600k if you find the need for video editing and other mutithread-heavy apps), and something like the ASUS P8P67/P8Z68 PRO instead.

I'm not sure how much of a difference the SATA 6.0 will make for HDD speed. It is, after all, for media storage, with the SDD taking care of the key apps, right?

I have no idea what computer component pricing is like in Japan, but I agree with you. There is an odd lopsidedness to paying $200 for a mobo, and $130 for a CPU. Assuming that pricing is even remotely similar between the US and Japan, it would be better to get a 2500k, and more along the lines of a $100 mobo (like one of the MSI models) than the current setup listed there.

The PSU Kyuuketsu_Night has picked out is also vastly overpowered. A 550-600w model would be plenty, for less than half the cost (maybe right at half, depending on how insane Japanese pricing is). Unless an SLI setup is planned in the future.

Sata 6.0 GB/s seems useless on a mechanic HDD. SSD's take advantage, but I doubt an HDD is fast enough, and for a storage drive, it hardly matters. Money can't really be saved here, but more capacity could be had for the price.

For games like Crysis 2 and TW2, I would go for a 6950 instead of a 6850.

Other than that, I don't see any problems.

 

[mkenyon]

AMD CPUs, especially at that price bracket, tend to be for value/stopgap rigs. Grab a 2500k (2600k if you find the need for video editing and other mutithread-heavy apps), and something like the ASUS P8P67/P8Z68 PRO instead.

I'm not sure how much of a difference the SATA 6.0 will make for HDD speed. It is, after all, for media storage, with the SDD taking care of the key apps, right?

Alternatively, you could grab a 990fx board and upgrade to bulldozer when it is released.

 

[BasicMath]

I have the perfect shiny pink/red & purple led set up running through my head, ha!

Your Current Specs: i3 380M / 4GB (DDR3) / ohgodidonno D: / i3 1GB GDDR3
Budget: $1000 - $1400 ;_; / Japan =x
Main Use: Gaming, Emulation (PS2/Wii), general usage, multitasking...
Monitor Resolution: 1920x1080
List SPECIFIC games that you MUST be able to play: Crysis 2, TW2, etc
Are reusing any parts?: Oh God no =(
When will you build?: Christmas 2011 or sometime in early 2012
Will you be overclocking?: Maybe =)

So far... after reading and checking videos on the youtubes I've put this together:

I recommend waiting a bit more before planning this...at least until bulldozer is released (a couple of months from now). There's also the next wave of GPUs that will be released around the time you're planning to build.