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[legend166]

Ok, final question:

Assuming they are the same price - what is better, a GTX570 or an HD6970.

I'll be gaming on a single monitor, at 1900x1080. I can't see myself using Crossfire at any point (well, the motherboard I'm going to buy only has 1 PCI Express 16x slot, so I won't be).

 

[(._.)]

Ok so I opened up my PC and the slot where the sound card is installed is the only spot where it can be put on the motherboard physically. Thing is it isn't fully in the slot because the screw holding it in place is pulling the opposing end out some. I had to take the screw out and push it all the way in. There isn't a screw holding the card in place now because it physically wont let me without part of the card coming out.

The motherboard seems to be picking the device up now but this is what it is showing. I have installed the drivers. What do I do now? The audio still isn't working.

Windows cannot verify the digital signature for the drivers required for this device. A recent hardware or software change might have installed a file that is signed incorrectly or damaged, or that might be malicious software from an unknown source. (Code 52)

This is what shows up under properties. I have installed the drivers.

 

[larvi]

Is the 320 GB version not supported, the second hard drive posted is not supported? Confused? Although it is the same brand.type but with larger drive size.

The mother board's manual does say it can support up to 4 GB. I guess it has 4x 1 gb modules? Correct? Even though I only had the one ram slot used.

Sorry if I wasn't clear, the 320GB EIDE should work fine as will the 160 or the 500 you are looking at. Are you just trying to add additional storage or are you planning on making the new drive the boot device? If you just want to add more space you may want to consider an external USB drive, you can get a bigger drive for the money and it's much easier to get working. Just plug and play and if you get a new computer in the future you can easily use it with that too.

For the memory, yes it says a max of 1gb module size and 4gb total so to max memory you would get 2 of the 2x1GB memory kits. But a 32bit OS will only see a little over 3GB of that so it probably isn't worth it.

 

[RumblingRosco]

Ok, final question:

Assuming they are the same price - what is better, a GTX570 or an HD6970.

I'll be gaming on a single monitor, at 1900x1080. I can't see myself using Crossfire at any point (well, the motherboard I'm going to buy only has 1 PCI Express 16x slot, so I won't be).

I suggest you look at this chart and see how specific games you're interested do with each card: http://www.anandtech.com/bench/Product/292?vs=306

Also, if you go for the 570 I'd suggest looking into the Twin Frozr design by MSI... Albeit I have a 560 ti, the cooling on that thing is a beast.

 

[legend166]

I suggest you look at this chart and see how specific games you're interested do with each card: http://www.anandtech.com/bench/Product/292?vs=306

Also, if you go for the 570 I'd suggest looking into the Twin Frozr design by MSI... Albeit I have a 560 ti, the cooling on that thing is a beast.

I'd probably be getting the Asus or Gigabyte model. The place I'm looking at don't see to sell the MSI one.

 

[Darkone]

I need a recommendation for a MOBO for this spec:

Use is mostly for games and movies 1080P & need SLI suport.

Core i5 - 2500K
GTX560 Ti
4GB Ram
Need USB 3 + Sata 3 support

Thanks

 

[mandiller]

I have a quick question. I'm building my PC right now and connecting the case cords to the motherboard. When connecting the 2-pin power and reset connectors I'm not sure which way to put them in. Which colour is ground? White or red?

 

[clav]

I have a quick question. I'm building my PC right now and connecting the case cords to the motherboard. When connecting the 2-pin power and reset connectors I'm not sure which way to put them in. Which colour is ground? White or red?

Black.

It really doesn't matter.

 

[knitoe]

Ok so I opened up my PC and the slot where the sound card is installed is the only spot where it can be put on the motherboard physically. Thing is it isn't fully in the slot because the screw holding it in place is pulling the opposing end out some. I had to take the screw out and push it all the way in. There isn't a screw holding the card in place now because it physically wont let me without part of the card coming out.

The motherboard seems to be picking the device up now but this is what it is showing. I have installed the drivers. What do I do now? The audio still isn't working.

This is what shows up under properties. I have installed the drivers.

Do you have any other sound device listed there? Were you ever able to disable the onboard sound in bios? If no, what MB?

 

[mandiller]

Okay another question (this topic VERY helpful). I have an eSATA port on the front of my PC. Do I connect the coresponding cable attached to that part to one of my Sata 2 or Sata 3 ports on my motherboard (and does it matter which one?)

Also, can I plug a sata 2 hdd into a sata 3 port? (kinda like plugging a usb 1.0 device into usb 2.0?)

 

[knitoe]

Okay another question (this topic VERY helpful). I have an eSATA port on the front of my PC. Do I connect the coresponding cable attached to that part to one of my Sata 2 or Sata 3 ports on my motherboard (and does it matter which one?)

You need to put it into a eSATA port on the MB. If you don't have a port on the MB and want to go eSATA to SATA, you will need a convertor add-on card.

Also, can I plug a sata 2 hdd into a sata 3 port? (kinda like plugging a usb 1.0 device into usb 2.0?)

Yes. It's backwards compatible.

 

[Goldrusher]

So... is the Dell U2311H still the best price-quality monitor out there ?

 

[Spectacular Dr Dawg]

I'm thinking of building a PC later this year or early next year.
I know there are new GPUs coming later this year but is there anything else that is worth waiting for or should i just build after the new cards are released?
I'm in no hurry to build since i have lots of games that work well on my laptop.

I'm also in need of a monitor. 3D and 120hz would be cool since I've never played anything in 3D but are they worth the extra cost and is there any use for 120hz besides 3D?

 

[Zapages]

Sorry if I wasn't clear, the 320GB EIDE should work fine as will the 160 or the 500 you are looking at. Are you just trying to add additional storage or are you planning on making the new drive the boot device? If you just want to add more space you may want to consider an external USB drive, you can get a bigger drive for the money and it's much easier to get working. Just plug and play and if you get a new computer in the future you can easily use it with that too.

For the memory, yes it says a max of 1gb module size and 4gb total so to max memory you would get 2 of the 2x1GB memory kits. But a 32bit OS will only see a little over 3GB of that so it probably isn't worth it.

Thanks Larvi,

I am hoping to make it our boot drive as our current hard drive is on its last legs. As for the ram, I should just go with 1 set of 2x 1 GB, with the total GB being 2 GB.

On the slots it'll be 2 GB on 2 slots and 512 MB on another slot.

 

[scorcho]

You need to put it into a eSATA port on the MB. If you don't have a port on the MB and want to go eSATA to SATA, you will need a convertor add-on card.

not necessarily true. most cases that have front panel eSATA ports will have internal eSATA to SATA converter cables, so the port can be attached to any SATA port on the motherboard. ideally it should be one that allows hot-swapping.

 

[BrokenEchelon]

I'm planning on buying a 560 Ti by October.

Is there any real sense in waiting? How likely is it that there will be any sort of significant price drops on cards by then, or that all of the current tiers will get bumped down by a 7000/600 series release?

 

[mandiller]

not necessarily true. most cases that have front panel eSATA ports will have internal eSATA to SATA converter cables, so the port can be attached to any SATA port on the motherboard. ideally it should be one that allows hot-swapping.

Well the cable attached to the case mounted eSata port does fit into my motherboard's sata ports. Would it work then? Do eSata cables not fit into normal sata ports?

 

[LordCanti]

I wonder if it's possible the fan I got is just good old defective. I mean it's always possible.

If my cpu temps and (apparently the RPM isn't really odd at 2000) stay normal is there any reason beyond annoyance that I couldn't use my computer?

So you got it to spin, but it is stuck at it's maximum speed? Is it in CPU_FAN on the mobo? Make sure, because looking at this mobo diagram, there is a CHA_FAN right next to CPU fan, and it would be easy to mistake the two.

Next, go into the bios, and find " CPU Q-Fan" control (check your manual if you need help finding it). Try setting it to "Silent" and see what that does for noise and temps. The sound you mention is probably just a wire touching a fan (not necessarily your CPU fan) but it could be a bum bearing I suppose.

If that doesn't work, we can go from there.

 

[Kyaw]

So... is the Dell U2311H still the best price-quality monitor out there ?

Yes, if you are looking for IPS panels. But generally even, it's a damn good IPS panel for the price. I wish i got it instead of a same price TN panel...

 

[RumblingRosco]

I'm planning on buying a 560 Ti by October.

Is there any real sense in waiting? How likely is it that there will be any sort of significant price drops on cards by then, or that all of the current tiers will get bumped down by a 7000/600 series release?

My understanding is that there will not be a 7000/600 series release by then. You might see small price drops between now and then, so waiting for price probably isn't a horrid idea, but mostly, I'd wait simply because I cannot see a reason to buy a card just to have it sit around and not be used (assuming you're not actually using it until October).

I bought an MSI Twin Frozr II 560 ti OC from Newegg in mid-May. It's currently listed at the exact same price as when I bought it, if that anecdotal report means anything.

 

[Smokey]

I'm thinking of building a PC later this year or early next year.
I know there are new GPUs coming later this year but is there anything else that is worth waiting for or should i just build after the new cards are released?
I'm in no hurry to build since i have lots of games that work well on my laptop.

I'm also in need of a monitor. 3D and 120hz would be cool since I've never played anything in 3D but are they worth the extra cost and is there any use for 120hz besides 3D?

Haven't tried 3d yet, but the 120hz refresh makes general use incredibly smooth. Same for games.

 

[zephervack]

I THINK you should update to 2.06 and see if that works for you... If not, try 2.08, then finally 2.09.
http://www.ocztechnologyforum.com/f...-Agility3-Solid3-support-and-discussion-forum

Thanks man, i will be trying this

 

[bill0527]

I'm planning on buying a 560 Ti by October.

Is there any real sense in waiting? How likely is it that there will be any sort of significant price drops on cards by then, or that all of the current tiers will get bumped down by a 7000/600 series release?

Have card prices been fluctuating?

In some of the Newegg reviews, I've seen people post that the current price of whatever card you're looking at has actually went up since they bought it.

Also, you're more likely to get a rebate if you buy now, but... that could also mean that when the rebate deals are over, the cards could permanently drop to that price after rebate. I've seen that happen quite a bit.

 

[Vormund]

Well I was having some troubles with my current rig, the video cards were playing up...or so I thought.

Bought a gtx570 to replace the old 9800GTX for now and it wouldn't work. So I sent it back and it turns out the 570 does work. So I'm guessing something is fucked on my mobo (XFX 780i)

Anyway bit the bullet and now have the following:

Gainward GeForce GTX 570 1280MB Goes Like Hell Edition
ASUS Sabertooth P67 Motherboard B3
Intel Core i5 2500K
Corsair Vengeance CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3

And I'll put it in a NZXT phantom that I bought a while back when it was on sale.

Tomorrow I'll look at getting the Antec KUHLER H2O 620 CPU Cooler

At some point I'll probably get a new mobo for the existing pc since the cpu is still decent (q9300 @ 3.0)

 

[Curufinwe]

I tried to burn an MP3 CD with iTunes on the weekend, and it stopped after a couple of seconds and said there was an error. Then I looked at My Computer and my DVD drive had disappeared and nothing I tried could find it again. It eventually came back the next day after a few shutdowns & restarts, but I decided to drag my old USB external DVD drive out of the basement and burn the CD with Nero instead.

 

[Manos: The Hans of Fate]

So you got it to spin, but it is stuck at it's maximum speed? Is it in CPU_FAN on the mobo? Make sure, because looking at this mobo diagram, there is a CHA_FAN right next to CPU fan, and it would be easy to mistake the two.

Next, go into the bios, and find " CPU Q-Fan" control (check your manual if you need help finding it). Try setting it to "Silent" and see what that does for noise and temps. The sound you mention is probably just a wire touching a fan (not necessarily your CPU fan) but it could be a bum bearing I suppose.

If that doesn't work, we can go from there.

It is correctly hooked up to CPU-FAN, at least I think it, is, 99% sure.

I was actually able to show a video of it to the tech guy at the company I work with. He confirmed it's either hitting the wire or the fan is defective.

Either of these issues are actually good, because if its the wire I just need to try moving them around a little more, or Microcenter gives me a new fan. Thankfully it's not screwing up temps or indicating anythings wrong otherwise.

He was also impressed of the build I was able to do for 700. So thanks again guys.

Oh I tested Civ5 out high on everything. It moved silky smooth and looked great, well besides a crap ton of screen taring, but then again I haven't installed the latest NVidia drivers so who knows how old the current ones from the install disc are.

 

[LogicStep]

Guys I was just looking at my CPU temps out of curiosity and I don't know if this is good or not.

Launched Mass Effect 2 and got those readings. Had the game running for 2 minutes.

 

[Smokey]

It is correctly hooked up to CPU-FAN, at least I think it, is, 99% sure.

I was actually able to show a video of it to the tech guy at the company I work with. He confirmed it's either hitting the wire or the fan is defective.

Either of these issues are actually good, because if its the wire I just need to try moving them around a little more, or Microcenter gives me a new fan. Thankfully it's not screwing up temps or indicating anythings wrong otherwise.

He was also impressed of the build I was able to do for 700. So thanks again guys.

Oh I tested Civ5 out high on everything. It moved silky smooth and looked great, well besides a crap ton of screen taring, but then again I haven't installed the latest NVidia drivers so who knows how old the current ones from the install disc are.

Download D3DOverrider to get rid of screen tearing.

 

[LordCanti]

Guys I was just looking at my CPU temps out of curiosity and I don't know if this is good or not.

Launched Mass Effect 2 and got those readings. Had the game running for 2 minutes.

I always hear that 70-75 is a good high water mark for Prime 95. You've got highs in the 90's, which is a good 15 degrees more than you should ever see, and that wasn't even in Prime 95.

What cooler do you have on there/how old is it? Maybe it needs new thermal paste? Is the fan still spinning properly?

Check in another program (like HWmonitor) and if the readings are similar, you definitely need to sort the issue out quickly (with either new thermal paste, or a new heatsink).

 

[LogicStep]

I always hear that 70-75 is a good high water mark for Prime 95. You've got highs in the 90's, which is a good 15 degrees more than you should ever see, and that wasn't even in Prime 95.

What cooler do you have on there/how old is it? Maybe it needs new thermal paste? Is the fan still spinning properly?

Check in another program (like HWmonitor) and if the readings are similar, you definitely need to sort the issue out quickly (with either new thermal paste, or a new heatsink).

Fan works fine, it's the stock heatsink. There is no thermal paste on the cpu. =\

 

[LordCanti]

Fan works fine, it's the stock heatsink. There is no thermal paste on the cpu. =\

You've taken it off and there is literally no paste, or you didn't apply any? The stock intel cooler comes with its own, so you shouldn't have had to apply any.

If you take the sink off and don't see any, you've definitely found the problem.

 

[LogicStep]

You've taken it off and there is literally no paste, or you didn't apply any? The stock intel cooler comes with its own, so you shouldn't have had to apply any.

If you take the sink off and don't see any, you've definitely found the problem.

I didn't apply any so if it came with any I didn't notice. I'm buying some paste right now just in case but as soon as I get home I'll check if there was any at all.

 

[LordCanti]

I didn't apply any so if it came with any I didn't notice. I'm buying some paste right now just in case but as soon as I get home I'll check if there was any at all.

When you installed it, it would have looked like three or so strips of grey on the bottom of the heatsink. When heat was applied, it would have turned into a thermal paste.

Definitely make sure that one program wasn't just giving you bad readings first. Check the temps in the bios as well (if your load is 90+, your idle temps should be really high as well in the bios). You could also check in a different program, as previously mentioned. You may check (using HWmonitor or a similar program) to make sure you haven't set insane voltages to the chip by accident as well (or that your mobo hasn't done so for you).

 

[Sourtreats]

Hey guys, iw as wondering if I could get some help.

I decided to get my old rig up and running again. It wouldn't turn on so I bought a new PSU (Corsair CX500) but the problem is my motherboard has a 4 pin input but the PSU doesn't have any less than 6. Here is a picture to help show what I mean.

 

[LordCanti]

Hey guys, iw as wondering if I could get some help.

I decided to get my old rig up and running again. It wouldn't turn on so I bought a new PSU (Corsair CX500) but the problem is my motherboard has a 4 pin input but the PSU doesn't have any less than 6. Here is a picture to help show what I mean.

Look for an eight pin cable that splits into two sets of four. Use either set. (it should be marked CPU power in your documentation, not to be confused with PCI-E power)

 

[Appleman]

Hey guys, iw as wondering if I could get some help.

I decided to get my old rig up and running again. It wouldn't turn on so I bought a new PSU (Corsair CX500) but the problem is my motherboard has a 4 pin input but the PSU doesn't have any less than 6. Here is a picture to help show what I mean.

You should be able to just use half of the 8pin power.

Also, is that a P965 Neo-F? Looks super familiar...

 

[mkenyon]

Look for an eight pin cable that splits into two sets of four. Use either set. (it should be marked CPU power in your documentation, not to be confused with PCI-E power)

There's one that looks like 8 pins, they're almost always broken up into two 4 pin plugs. Use one of them.

 

[Manos: The Hans of Fate]

Download D3DOverrider to get rid of screen tearing.

Will do. I was kind of surprised how bad it was. Then again it was minor compared to the fan, which should be fixed by tonight. I was also able to show our tech guy a picture of the setup. I had no idea I could simply take the plug wire out (I thought it was stuck in).

Well lets knock on wood that I'll be fully done by tonight.

I'm tempted to just add this one instead, but if I fix this one, I doubt I'll want to do anymore installing for awhile!

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G1YPH0/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Oh does anyone know how to add Wifi capability? What do I need for it?

 

[TheKurgan]

I made the mistake of buying a cheap wireless keyboard when I built my system and I can't stand it.

Can someone recommend me a good everyday/gaming Keyboard? I don't need top of the line, just a solid responsive keyboard. Under $75 if possible... I am thinking about the Logitech G110 but don't know if it is any good.

http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=47666&vpn=920-002232&manufacture=Logitech&promoid=1337

 

[mkenyon]

Will do. I was kind of surprised how bad it was. Then again it was minor compared to the fan, which should be fixed by tonight. I was also able to show our tech guy a picture of the setup. I had no idea I could simply take the plug wire out (I thought it was stuck in).

Well lets knock on wood that I'll be fully done by tonight.

I'm tempted to just add this one instead, but if I fix this one, I doubt I'll want to do anymore installing for awhile!

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G1YPH0/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Oh does anyone know how to add Wifi capability? What do I need for it?

You can get a Wireless Dongle that plugs into USB, or a PCI/PCI-E mini card.

I made the mistake of buying a cheap wireless keyboard when I built my system and I can't stand it.

Can someone recommend me a good everyday/gaming Keyboard? I don't need top of the line, just a solid responsive keyboard. Under $75 if possible... I am thinking about the Logitech G110 but don't know if it is any good.

http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=47666&vpn=920-002232&manufacture=Logitech&promoid=1337

In that price range you want the Razer Blackwidow. Trust me.

 

[Smokey]

I made the mistake of buying a cheap wireless keyboard when I built my system and I can't stand it.

Can someone recommend me a good everyday/gaming Keyboard? I don't need top of the line, just a solid responsive keyboard. Under $75 if possible... I am thinking about the Logitech G110 but don't know if it is any good.

http://www.ncix.com/products/index.php?sku=47666&vpn=920-002232&manufacture=Logitech&promoid=1337

I use this..Razer Black Widow

Right at your budget, mechanical (feels good man), and macro keys. I've no complaints about it. Some others here have it as well and enjoy theirs as well.

 

[LogicStep]

When you installed it, it would have looked like three or so strips of grey on the bottom of the heatsink. When heat was applied, it would have turned into a thermal paste.

Definitely make sure that one program wasn't just giving you bad readings first. Check the temps in the bios as well (if your load is 90+, your idle temps should be really high as well in the bios). You could also check in a different program, as previously mentioned. You may check (using HWmonitor or a similar program) to make sure you haven't set insane voltages to the chip by accident as well (or that your mobo hasn't done so for you).

I don't remember seeing any strips back when I installed it. Here are some more readings, these are idle:

This is the program you mentioned, HWMonitor:

This is on the BIOS:

Seems like my processor is running real hot. I installed it 2.5 years ago so if there is no paste, it has been running like that for that long. I bought some thermal paste which I will apply after I get some things done. Hopefully that is the problem and will make the processor run cooler.

On a side note, my video card arrived today and I have a question regarding some stickers on it.

Do I leave those there? Does it matter?

BTW sorry for the long post, pictures took a lot of space on the post.

 

[Manos: The Hans of Fate]

You can get a Wireless Dongle that plugs into USB, or a PCI/PCI-E mini card.

Okay, I was wondering if I could just use the USB dongle method or I needed something else to enable it. That said the speeds I got from using a wired connection to the Fios Router was insane and makes using wireless seem blah.

 

[LordCanti]

I don't remember seeing any strips back when I installed it. Here are some more readings, these are idle:

This is on the BIOS:

Seems like my processor is running real hot. I installed it 2.5 years ago so if there is no paste, it has been running like that for that long. I bought some thermal paste which I will apply after I get some things done. Hopefully that is the problem and will make the processor run cooler.

On a side note, my video card arrived today and I have a question regarding some stickers on it.

Do I leave those there? Does it matter?

BTW sorry for the long post, pictures took a lot of space on the post.

First of all, leave the stickers.

Second, those temps are really high. 81 in the bios, highs in the 70's at idle in Windows, etc.

I doubt you could have run without paste. If anything, maybe the cooler was never seated properly, or the paste has dried. Do you know how to clean thermal paste off of a processor?

Okay, I was wondering if I could just use the USB dongle method or I needed something else to enable it. That said the speeds I got from using a wired connection to the Fios Router was insane and makes using wireless seem blah.

A USB dongle would work. There is no point in doing so though, if you enjoy the speeds you are getting from wired.

 

[bill0527]

Zazrx, those temps are completely out of line for idle.

I know it may sound stupid to ask, but is your CPU fan running at all?

You've got a major problem somewhere and I'm thinking that thermal paste isn't even going to bring those temps down a whopping 30-35C , which is where they should be at idle.

 

[mkenyon]

I doubt you could have run without paste. If anything, maybe the cooler was never seated properly, or the paste has dried. Do you know how to clean thermal paste off of a processor?

Yep. If you're feeling adventurous, pick up an aftermarket heatsink. Even something small like a Scythe Shuriken (also super easy to install) would be hugely beneficial. If not, remove the heat sink and clean off the proc/heatsink with isopropyl alcohol that is 90%+. Let that dry, then reapply some thermal phase interchange material (thermal paste). I just dip a cotton swab in the bottle and go at it.

Zazrx, those temps are completely out of line for idle.

I know it may sound stupid to ask, but is your CPU fan running at all?

You've got a major problem somewhere and I'm thinking that thermal paste isn't even going to bring those temps down a whopping 30-35C , which is where they should be at idle.

He answered that above, and HW monitor picture there shows the current speed of his heatsink fan as well.

 

[Manos: The Hans of Fate]

A USB dongle would work. There is no point in doing so though, if you enjoy the speeds you are getting from wired.

Yeah, getting between 3.5-5.6 Mb/s downloading games off steam was insane! At first I look at the download time for Civ5 and saw 30 minutes, I thought something had to be wrong as times like that made no sense. I think it downloaded Victoria II in 5 minutes.

I just need a longer cord or one USB for when I'm using it in the bedroom I don't want to have to stretch a cord through the hallway.

 

[Sourtreats]

Look for an eight pin cable that splits into two sets of four. Use either set. (it should be marked CPU power in your documentation, not to be confused with PCI-E power)

There's one that looks like 8 pins, they're almost always broken up into two 4 pin plugs. Use one of them.

Thank you guys so much! It booted up straight away. Time to reformat and reinstall it.

You should be able to just use half of the 8pin power.

Also, is that a P965 Neo-F? Looks super familiar...

Yessir! Good eye

 

[LordCanti]

Zazrx, those temps are completely out of line for idle.

I know it may sound stupid to ask, but is your CPU fan running at all?

You've got a major problem somewhere and I'm thinking that thermal paste isn't even going to bring those temps down a whopping 30-35C , which is where they should be at idle.

My guess is an improperly seated heatsink, maybe combined with dried thermal paste. If this doesn't get his temps down, the next step is definitely a tower cooler.

This isn't likely to be a sensor malfunction is it? Across multiple sensors? It looks like the CPU has already throttled itself back to avoid burning, and if it is a sensor issue, I'm not sure anything is going to keep it from doing so. I had a P4 rig die that way once, but that was many moons ago.

Hopefully new paste will fix it. It's certainly the cheapest fix.

Edit: His 12v rail is reading 1.79v in HWmonitor. What the heck causes that? It couldn't be accurate, because there's no way his computer could run at that.

The only thing not really hot inside his computer is the HDD in any case. Everything, including the GPU, is hotter than it should be by a long shot.

 

[Spookie]

Yep. If you're feeling adventurous, pick up an aftermarket heatsink.

I'd recommend this course of action. If you do keep stock don't be worried about putting good ammount of pressure on the cooler when re-seating it.

Finally got my monitor off Scan today. Holy shit are LED monitors bright. I think I lost my retinas stepping outside playing New Vegas.