"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]

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LordCanti said:
I guess me and Microcenter are going to have to agree to disagree on the issue of that PSU. It wouldn't have been my first choice, but the budget was so tight, and there weren't a whole lot of options around that price. Either way, as long as that PSU is functioning, it isn't an issue. I'm glad it worked out.
It's possible I put the wrong one in the cart, but as you it worked out and the advice you've given was golden, so I don't mean be ungrateful.

LordCanti said:
Your CPU fan isn't spinning? That is a big problem (or did I misunderstand the issue you were having?)
It's funny when I did my external tests (after fixing the pushed in problem) it did, but when I did some boot tests in the case. I didn't notice it spinning. It would be odd for the fan to have an error getting put in the case.

Granted if the fan isn't working or I goofed it, from a return perspective, it's nowhere like fucking up the processor. The weird think is it did spin, but like I said initially it barely spun and then stopped till I fully locked it in.

Perhaps the fan plug came out when I put it in the unit. Man I just want to go home and work on it now lol.

LordCanti said:
The other fans seem to be regular molex fans (not controlled by the mobo). Just plug them into the PSU, and you should be good to go there.
Okay that's what I was thinking it was.

LordCanti said:
As for cable management, basically you'll want to route everything behind the motherboard. There are holes cutout specifically for this purpose, so you should use them. Even if the cables don't need to go very far (like for PCI-E power), run the cable behind the mobo anyway, and have it come up and snap into place. That should take care of most of that wire mess. Don't worry about getting it too tidy, because it really isn't a fire hazard, despite your wife's misgivings (just make sure no wires are touching a fan). Your temperatures shouldn't be horribly hindered either.
In fairness to my wife, the fire hazard meme is more my own lol. I appreciate the advice I'll try doing that when I get home. I'll make sure the fan rule is follow. I only have one thing near a fan anyway.

I suspect I didn't think of going behind the Motherboard (as I didn't notice any openings) was because the case is still open. I didn't realize I'd have that room to work with. as 4:00 AM rolled around my mind was starting to lose some of it's higher functions lol.


It's time to load up some games!
Oh I can't wait to push Civ 5, DAO,and World in Conflict up to 11 (direct x and settings wise!)

I really want to get The Witcher or some crazy recent game, but skipping on the steam sale (I was moving and without internet and knowledge of the system I was getting) makes buying anything know feel like the act of a chump.
 
gatti-man said:
Yeah I used to have an msi board and it would always beep at boot like 3 times lol.


Awesome, that makes me feel so better. Two normal and one loud. Fuck I spent an hour making myself think I screwed it up. I even tried removing the video card (thankfully nothing else) to try and get one beep. Eventually I just thought fuck it I'm putting it in.

Oh another hilarious error was not pushing the mini-HDMI cable fully in and thinking the video card was giving no picture to my two test monitors!
 
Manos: The Hans of Fate said:
It's possible I put the wrong one in the cart, but as you it worked out and the advice you've given was golden, so I don't mean be ungrateful.

I didn't take it that way. If anything, I was accusing Microcenter of selling you on a potentially faulty refurb (higher profit for them potentially) over a new PSU, on the false notion that the other PSU wouldn't have provided enough power. I'm sure their motives were more along the lines of simply not knowing how much power you needed, and deciding that it was better to be safe than sorry though.

Manos: The Hans of Fate said:
It's funny when I did my external tests (after fixing the pushed in problem) it did, but when I did some boot tests in the case. I didn't notice it spinning. It would be odd for the fan to have an error getting put in the case.

Granted if the fan isn't working or I goofed it, from a return perspective, it's nowhere like fucking up the processor. The weird think is it did spin, but like I said initially it barely spun and then stopped till I fully locked it in.

Perhaps the fan plug came out when I put it in the unit. Man I just want to go home and work on it now lol.

With any luck, your CPU fan just isn't properly plugged in, or you've plugged it into the wrong header on the motherboard (It should have been CPU_FAN or something of that sort).

If it is properly plugged in, you may need a replacement. The CPU fan is essential. I wouldn't use the computer until you've verified that the CPU fan is properly functioning. Hell, I'm surprised it booted without giving you an error message.
 
LordCanti said:
With any luck, your CPU fan just isn't properly plugged in, or you've plugged it into the wrong header on the motherboard (It should have been CPU_FAN or something of that sort).

If it is properly plugged in, you may need a replacement. The CPU fan is essential. I wouldn't use the computer until you've verified that the CPU fan is properly functioning. Hell, I'm surprised it booted without giving you an error message.

Yeah, nothing else really makes any sense for why it would suddenly stop working. I just wish I could look at it right now, well besides the pictures. lol

I kind of wish I hadn't done about 5 boot tests at times when the fan didn't work during the external build. Granted those were really short. I just hope it doesn't have any long term negative effects.

Would the fan not being locked in place be a reason for it not spinning during those initial external tests? If not, then I guess it might have been the plug.
 
OK so, I found out my X16 PCIE slot is bad on my mobo. I'm gonna pick up a 990fx so Im Dozer ready and full crossfire ready. Thanks for the advice mkenyon!

Getting this here: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128514

I'm also considering picking up a 6870 next week with hopes to crossfire it with another in a month or so. Would this be a solid plan or should i consider waiting a couple more months and going with a single 6950, and getting another down the line during the holidays?

From the research I've been doing, it seems that CFX 6870s will be overkill at 1680x1050 and it will be a while before they start struggling, i'm just wondering if it's worth it to be little more future proof for an extra hundred bucks a card? The worst thing about getting a 6950 for me would be the wait, but if it's worth it i can try to hold out, because my 5750 is awful, honestly.
 
Manos: The Hans of Fate said:
Yeah, nothing else really makes any sense for why it would suddenly stop working. I just wish I could look at it right now, well besides the pictures. lol

I kind of wish I hadn't done about 5 boot tests at times when the fan didn't work during the external build. Granted those were really short. I just hope it doesn't have any long term negative effects.

Would the fan not being locked in place be a reason for it not spinning during those initial external tests? If not, then I guess it might have been the plug.

No, locked into place or not, if it was getting power from the mobo, it should have spun.

You won't burn your CPU cold booting it into Windows. You'd need to play an intensive game (or run Prime 95, or a benchmarking app, etc) to cause any harm, and even then, it should notice it has gotten too hot and slow itself (if not completely turn the computer off to keep from being damaged).
 
LordCanti said:
No, locked into place or not, if it was getting power from the mobo, it should have spun.

You won't burn your CPU cold booting it into Windows. You'd need to play an intensive game (or run Prime 95, or a benchmarking app, etc) to cause any harm, and even then, it should notice it has gotten too hot and slow itself (if not completely turn the computer off to keep from being damaged).

That's funny because at first, before I locked it into place it started to spin for a second and then stopped. It barley started even like one or two revolutions.

Good to know I haven't made the situation worse or anything (that can't be fixed by a replacement fan), but man I don't want to have to drive back to try and exchange just the fan tonight...but I sure as hell don't want to wait even longer to use it. Hopefully it's just the plug was loose. Well luckily the worst it could be is crappy fan go get new one...unless the socket on the mobo is screwed up...uh I don't even want to think about that possibility. That said I would think that's unlikely since before I put it in the case it was eventually spinning fine, right?
 
Manos: The Hans of Fate said:
That's funny because at first, before I locked it into place it started to spin for a second and then stopped. It barley started even like one or two revolutions.

Good to know I haven't made the situation worse or anything (that can't be fixed by a replacement fan), but man I don't want to have to drive back to try and exchange just the fan tonight...but I sure as hell don't want to wait even longer to use it. Hopefully it's just the plug was loose. Well luckily the worst it could be is crappy fan go get new one...unless the socket on the mobo is screwed up...uh I don't even want to think about that possibility. That said I would think that's unlikely since before I put it in the case it was eventually spinning fine, right?

I'm kind of wondering why you didn't lock the heatsink into place before you turned it on the first time out of the case. Not having a fan spinning is one thing, but not having a properly seated heatsink is a big mistake (unless contact was maintained with the bottom at all times, I guess).

If the fan is properly plugged into the mobo, the next step is to go into the BIOS and make sure some setting hasn't gotten flipped. Next up is checking another fan header on the board to see if the fan spins from that (which would point to a CPU_FAN header issue)

Did you install Windows yet? Does the fan spin up in Windows?

If worse comes to worst, and you do need a replacement, I'm not sure if they can give you just the fan. They'd probably give you an entirely new heatsink, which would mean you'd need to clean the thermal paste off the CPU. Hopefully it won't come to that. Physically, I doubt you'll have damaged anything.
 
mkenyon said:
All the time.
I suppose I should just look over to see which keyboards and mice are comfortable when I purchase everything then. If the list is evolving often then I'll want to have some things I'm set on buying at least. Thanks for the reply!
 
LordCanti said:
I'm kind of wondering why you didn't lock the heatsink into place before you turned it on the first time out of the case. Not having a fan spinning is one thing, but not having a properly seated heatsink is a big mistake (unless contact was maintained with the bottom at all times, I guess).

I thought it was locked in. Part of the problem was that I was so paranoid about applying too much to the mobo at that point in the installation. It was on top of the box at all times and it seemed like the pieces had gone through (though just not enough).

LordCanti said:
If the fan is properly plugged into the mobo, the next step is to go into the BIOS and make sure some setting hasn't gotten flipped. Next up is checking another fan header on the board to see if the fan spins from that (which would point to a CPU_FAN header issue)
I'll try that out if plugging in again doesn't work. I really hope it's not a CPU_FAN header issue.

LordCanti said:
Did you install Windows yet? Does the fan spin up in Windows?
No, I haven't hooked up the HD and CD/DVD drive yet. That's next up after the fan is checked out.

LordCanti said:
If worse comes to worse, and you do need a replacement, I'm not sure if they can give you just the fan. They'd probably give you an entirely new heatsink, which would mean you'd need to clean the thermal paste off the CPU. Hopefully it won't come to that. Physically, I doubt you'll have damaged anything.
Ughh, I hope that's not the case. Still good to know nothing is most likely physically FUBARed.

I'm just hoping I get home and this all has a simple solution.
 
InfiniteNine said:
I suppose I should just look over to see which keyboards and mice are comfortable when I purchase everything then. If the list is evolving often then I'll want to have some things I'm set on buying at least. Thanks for the reply!
Razer Blackwidow + Steelseries Xai if you're not looking to drop a ton. Filco keyboard otherwise.
 
First, a big THANK YOU to all of the helpful posts in this thread. Especially Hazaro.

So after 7 years, its time for a new PC. I'll be upgrading from a Pentium 4 2.8 ghz with a Radeon x300 series gpu, so I'm pretty excited to see how games will look. My budget is about $800. I'm not going to be OCing and I'll be using my current monitor (1600 x 900) for now. Probably upgrade that around Christmas.
This is what I came up with:

Antec 300 case
ASRock H67M (B3)
EVGA GeForce GTX 460 1gb
Corsair 650W PSU
i5 2500 Sandy Bridge CPU
G.Skill Ripjaw X Series 8gb (2 x 4gb)
Samsung Spinpoint F3 1tb HDD
Asus 24x DVD Burner

Add Win 7 to that and its just under $850, which is just fine.
I can only order a few parts at a time, the wait sucks. I'm so anxious...
 
I wanted to update my graphics card drivers, so I uninstalled the old driver and when I go install the new one it tells me the installer could not find compatible hardware. What's the solution?

Trying to install latest stable Nvidia drivers for a GTX 460.
 
Pandoracell said:
I wanted to update my graphics card drivers, so I uninstalled the old driver and when I go install the new one it tells me the installer could not find compatible hardware. What's the solution?

Trying to install latest stable Nvidia drivers for a GTX 460.
Download the drivers from Nvidia's website, double click the .exe, rather than having windows do it.
 
mkenyon said:
Grab a different case than the Antec 300, it's rubbish IMO. HAF 912 is a much better option in the same price category.

Why do you say its rubbish? Turns out that one of the parts I've already ordered. Ha!
 
chewydogg said:
Why do you say its rubbish? Turns out that one of the parts I've already ordered. Ha!

It's not rubbish, it's actually a very solid case. It's been around for three of four years and as such doesn't have the features of some of the new cases. Just because there are better options now doesn't suddenly make the case worse. At $60 go with the HAF instead. If you find the 300 for $40 it still can't be beat at that price range.
 
chewydogg said:
Why do you say its rubbish? Turns out that one of the parts I've already ordered. Ha!
Build quality with Antec is really questionable, maybe its just QA. I used to get their cases almost all the time as that's what my LCS (local computer shop) carried, and every single one falls apart after a single build. The only case of theirs I haven't had a problem with is a P180 that I put my business server in, which hasn't been touched since it was built 4 years ago. They're kind of similar to IKEA furniture. Good price, nice finish, looks purdy, but falls apart fairly quickly. Too much plastic, too many cases shipped to really stay on top of good QA.

This is, of course, in relation to their competitors. With every case that Antec sells, there's a similar product from a different company (CM, Fractal, Lian Li, Silverstone, NZXT) that are much nicer.
 
chewydogg said:
First, a big THANK YOU to all of the helpful posts in this thread. Especially Hazaro.

So after 7 years, its time for a new PC. I'll be upgrading from a Pentium 4 2.8 ghz with a Radeon x300 series gpu, so I'm pretty excited to see how games will look. My budget is about $800. I'm not going to be OCing and I'll be using my current monitor (1600 x 900) for now. Probably upgrade that around Christmas.
This is what I came up with:

Antec 300 case
ASRock H67M (B3)
EVGA GeForce GTX 460 1gb
Corsair 650W PSU
i5 2500 Sandy Bridge CPU
G.Skill Ripjaw X Series 8gb (2 x 4gb)
Samsung Spinpoint F3 1tb HDD
Asus 24x DVD Burner

Add Win 7 to that and its just under $850, which is just fine.
I can only order a few parts at a time, the wait sucks. I'm so anxious...

why not just pay the extra $10 and get the i5-2500k? sandy bridge chips are much easier to OC than its predecessors. It would only increase the shelf life of your rig. I would definitely go that route so you can get a few extra years out of your computer.

btw, one could still overclock their cpu with Intel's stock cooler.
 
tehbible said:
why not just pay the extra $10 and get the i5-2500k? sandy bridge chips are much easier to OC than its predecessors. It would only increase the shelf life of your rig. I would definitely go that route so you can get a few extra years out of your computer.

btw, one could still overclock their cpu with Intel's stock cooler.
It would be more than $10 as he would need to upgrade the H67 to a P67 as well.
 
mkenyon said:
With every case that Antec sells, there's a similar product from a different company (CM, Fractal, Lian Li, Silverstone, NZXT) that are much nicer.

Not sure I'd put NZXT on that list based on my experiences. And haven't ever had a Fractal Design, but there are a quite a lot of reports of QA issues there too.

Antec cases are decent. They usually offer pretty good features, and while overall design and quality doesn't reach that of Silverstone, Lian-Li, and CoolerMaster (of yore... their products haven't had the same luster since the ATCS team went to form Silverstone), they're usually among the better choices at the low/mid price range.
 
chewydogg said:
Right. Not going to OC with this PC. Maybe next build...

That's a tad shortsighted, in 2 or 3 years OCing will be able to really extend the life of your CPU/MOBO which could prevent you from having to upgrade prematurely.

Food for thought...
 
If you're destroying cases by inserting components into them you're doing it wrong. The 300 is rock solid. The only issue they have is the tabs on the front dust panel can have issues. At this point i'd have a hard time recommending any case without USB 3.0 front panels, neither of which the 300 or HAF 912 have.
 
Appleman said:
That's a tad shortsighted, in 2 or 3 years OCing will be able to really extend the life of your CPU/MOBO which could prevent you from having to upgrade prematurely.

Food for thought...
Who needs to wait for the future. Currently, there are games that take advantage of the increase speed from overclocking, ie Witcher 2.
 
knitoe said:
Who needs to wait for the future. Currently, there are games that take advantage of the increase speed from overclocking, ie Witcher 2.

Absolutely. But if someone was uncomfortable with overclocking, and it's not worth the "risk" at this point, their minds could be changed a couple generations down the road when <4GHz just wont cut it.
 
Appleman said:
Absolutely. But if someone was uncomfortable with overclocking, and it's not worth the "risk" at this point, their minds could be changed a couple generations down the road when <4GHz just wont cut it.


See I'm waiting until I need to do overclocking...well at least let me make sure I actually finish building my unit. However, I think a lot of people just want to enjoy the initial ability to just crank up settings and play with no extra effort.
 
I have quickly put together a rough PC. I am looking to purchasing one similar to these specs and just want to double check whether the parts are compatible. Better to take some extra time and double check before having to go through the RMA process in case of error.

http://secure.newegg.ca/WishList/Pub...umber=16792825 - I do not need another HD.

Also, are there any recommendations to the build?

Thanks!
 
I was reading about DDR4 and it said (on wikipedia) that it is scheduled to be released on the market by 2012. My question is does that mean that the motherboards for Ivy Bridge will use DDR4? How likely is it that it will be?
 
Shambles said:
If you're destroying cases by inserting components into them you're doing it wrong. The 300 is rock solid. The only issue they have is the tabs on the front dust panel can have issues. At this point i'd have a hard time recommending any case without USB 3.0 front panels, neither of which the 300 or HAF 912 have.
I go to LANs, which may have something to do with it. My computer is moved from place to place about every other month. I also open up my cases fairly regularly doing constant upgrades. I think I probably tend to push cases to their limits, and end up seeing faults that might pass others by. I get what you're saying though, lots of people can get by with the Antec cases because they sit in one spot and are only opened a few times a year. I guess it'll do for that job, but I just can't personally recommend something I see as inferior build quality.
 
Looking for a bit of advice. I've never really bothered with anything but some cheap logitech speakers for sound on my PC, but I'm playing a lot more PC games these days and would like to invest in some decent sound. Nothing extreme as I have roommates and they don't want huge bass across the hallway, I've considered a headphone/headset combo for ease in online gaming, but I don't always want to wear a headset you know? Anyways, could I get some advice or recommendations? Thanks!
 
Fair enough. I haul my own case around quite a bit (it does indeed happen to be a 300 purchased in 2008) and haven't had any issues with it outside that dust panel tab issue. Most of my builds tend to simply re-use old cases and in many situations I can harvest peoples old OEM cases which are generally plastic and of poor build quality. I find that while these cases are annoying to build in even they stand up quite well to the abuse of being on the road.

Generally I think spending any more than $60 on a case is a waste unless there is no piece of hardware inside the case that is possible to upgrade to something higher end, or unless you are doing full water cooling. A case can have some effect on cooling and noise but generally it's just a box that sits on the ground that you only open up once a year to tinker inside. If they end up updating the HAF 912 with USB3 front ports I would jump all over that. In case CM is reading you have until November to make that change :P
 
Shambles said:
If you're destroying cases by inserting components into them you're doing it wrong. The 300 is rock solid. The only issue they have is the tabs on the front dust panel can have issues. At this point i'd have a hard time recommending any case without USB 3.0 front panels, neither of which the 300 or HAF 912 have.
Reminds me of trying to fit the cheap ass port shield/listing on the back of my PC. It's insanely hard and so crappy that if it wasn't for dust protection I might give up!
 
InfiniteNine said:
How often is that capable build updated? Going to jump in and finally build my first PC in a few weeks and I'm just curious. :)
Infi-kun can't read the OP.
Doushioooooooooo
It's in the news section and even at the top of the build :[
 
Oh I was wondering how high has the i5 2500K been overclocked too and same for the EVGA GTX460?

I have to admit I am tempted to try it once i have everything setup, but I just want to know how much gains I can expect.

I have to admit I'd love to run Battlefield 3 at high levels.
 
Just finished a miniITX build for my brother.

Motherboard - Zotac miniITX H67-C-E
CPU - Core i5 2400
Cooler - Scythe Shuriken 3 Rev. B
RAM - Corsair XMS 1333 CAS 9 2 x 4GB
GPU - MSI Twin Frozr GTX560Ti
Boot HDD - 120GB Vertex 2 (16 chip solution)
Data HDD - 2TB WD Caviar Black
Case/PSU - Silverstone SG07B w/ 600W 80+ Bronze

Very unimpressed by the Zotac mobo during this build. I wasn't expecting a lot in terms of bios features but it had many boot issues during setup. Seems you can't boot with anything plugged into the USB3.0 and the quick boot feature simply doesnt work with anything plugged into any of the USB ports. The case was great considering how small it is. Great build quality and lots of (small) places to feed cables trough. The fit and finish is so tight some components are a little difficult to to put into place but that's better then loose components. The shuriken cooler is a very tight fit, only 1-2 mm away from the GPU PCB and thats with using the power cables to lean the GPU outwards. The cooler also hangs over one of the RAM slots making it very interesting to get the second stick in. I should have installed The RAM outside the case with the cooler but forgot to do so. The end result is a incredibly quiet, small and capable machine. Will post pics and temps later.
 
Manos: The Hans of Fate said:
Oh I was wondering how high has the i5 2500K been overclocked too and same for the EVGA GTX460?

I have to admit I am tempted to try it once i have everything setup, but I just want to know how much gains I can expect.

I have to admit I'd love to run Battlefield 3 at high levels.

I'm pretty sure some 2500k's have been able to get up to 5.7GHz. Not all of them can do it, and it's pretty rough on it as well.
 
Manos: The Hans of Fate said:
Oh I was wondering how high has the i5 2500K been overclocked too and same for the EVGA GTX460?

I have to admit I am tempted to try it once i have everything setup, but I just want to know how much gains I can expect.

I have to admit I'd love to run Battlefield 3 at high levels.

On air, water, piezoelectric, or nitrogen. With LNO2 someone hit 6GHz
 
So i see in the OP that there is an issue with some Vertex 3 SSDs with blue screen.

I recently started getting Blue Screens while playing some games but i am not sure if it is due to the SSD or something else. Any ideas how can i trace it back to the SSD to ask for a replacement?

Thanks
 
Petrie said:
Looking for a bit of advice. I've never really bothered with anything but some cheap logitech speakers for sound on my PC, but I'm playing a lot more PC games these days and would like to invest in some decent sound. Anyways, could I get some advice or recommendations? Thanks!

I bought these a long while ago when they were on sale for i think $50:
Logitech Z-4i 2.1 3-Piece White 40 Watt Speakers with Remote

They get really loud and sound excellent. I would recommend if you are just looking for a 2.1 setup. This model is no longer for sale, but you can find the equivalent wherever...
 
Petrie said:
Looking for a bit of advice. I've never really bothered with anything but some cheap logitech speakers for sound on my PC, but I'm playing a lot more PC games these days and would like to invest in some decent sound. Nothing extreme as I have roommates and they don't want huge bass across the hallway, I've considered a headphone/headset combo for ease in online gaming, but I don't always want to wear a headset you know? Anyways, could I get some advice or recommendations? Thanks!

How cheap is cheap? If you are looking to play a lot more PC games you might as well pony up and buy a decent pair that will last you. I ended up doing it and don't regret it.
 
Eltacoman said:
I'm pretty sure some 2500k's have been able to get up to 5.7GHz. Not all of them can do it, and it's pretty rough on it as well.

scogoth said:
On air, water, piezoelectric, or nitrogen. With LNO2 someone hit 6GHz

That's insane. Actually I've heard about the 5Ghz, and I though that was insane. I mean if it really can do 5Ghz how long does that extend the chip until games require more?

Knocking on wood that the fan issue will be fixed when I get home in a few hours, but I have to say while stressful, building a PC was actually fun in the end. It was challenging, but when I solved a problem, it felt amazing.
 
After discussing things with my Father. We are a bit tight on money right now.

So instead of buying a new computer, we are thinking of just upgrading the ram and getting a new hard drive and maybe a new graphics card:

My current board is this Intel D865Perl: http://www.intel.com/support/motherboards/desktop/D865PERL/sb/CS-027106.htm

What type of ram do you guys recommend for this motherboard? I don't want to buy RAM that will not work on it. :(

I will have 32bit Windows 7 running it. So up to 3 GB will be nice or could I get 2 GB and allow my current 512 of ram to still be there?

My current RAM sticker and logo says: BRAVO 512 MB DDR DIMM,N 64WPO PO17296

I would prefer buying it from amazon.com

Also will it support this hard drive: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VRZ7PA/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Will this graphics card be good: Axle3D Nvidia GeForce 7950 GT 512MB DDR3 256-Bit HDTV / S-Video AGP 8x Video Card w/Dual Link DVI: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002Q62VYO/?tag=neogaf0e-20

upgrade from my current Geforce 7600GT 256 MB DDR3. My current power supply is only 350W though. Will that still be ok for this one or should not upgrade the graphics card as its not worth it now?

The computer is used for minimum gaming (mostly old school stuff ie. Xbox/PS2 generation of PC games(Ys/PoP SoT/WW/T2T/PoP 1/2:Shadow and the Flame/3D), and some trackmania on the side :D)

The current PSU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817103913

If I upgrade: The specs will be:

Pentium 4 2.6c Ghz
2 GB of RAM or 2.5 GB of RAM
320 GB Hard Drive
Geforce 7950GT 512 MB
 
Zapages said:
After discussing things with my Father. We are a bit tight on money right now.

So instead of buying a new computer, we are thinking of just upgrading the ram and getting a new hard drive and maybe a new graphics card:

My current board is this Intel D865Perl: http://www.intel.com/support/motherboards/desktop/D865PERL/sb/CS-027106.htm

What type of ram do you guys recommend for this motherboard? I don't want to buy RAM that will not work on it. :(

I will have 32bit Windows 7 running it. So up to 3 GB will be nice or could I get 2 GB and allow my current 512 of ram to still be there?

My current RAM sticker and logo says: BRAVO 512 MB DDR DIMM,N 64WPO PO17296

I would prefer buying it from amazon.com

Also will it support this hard drive: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VRZ7PA/?tag=neogaf0e-20

Will this graphics card be good: Axle3D Nvidia GeForce 7950 GT 512MB DDR3 256-Bit HDTV / S-Video AGP 8x Video Card w/Dual Link DVI: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002Q62VYO/?tag=neogaf0e-20

upgrade from my current Geforce 7600GT 256 MB DDR3. My current power supply is only 350W though. Will that still be ok for this one or should not upgrade the graphics card as its not worth it now?

The computer is used for minimum gaming (mostly old school stuff ie. Xbox/PS2 generation of PC games(Ys/PoP SoT/WW/T2T/PoP 1/2:Shadow and the Flame/3D), and some trackmania on the side :D)

If I upgrade: The specs will be:

Pentium 4 2.6c Ghz
2 GB of RAM or 2.5 GB of RAM
320 GB Hard Drive
Geforce 7950GT 512 MB

I don't think its worth upgrading too much. Maybe buy some some RAM to bring you up to at least 1GB. The hard drive you can carry over to your next build but get a 500GB or more, its the same price. Leave the GPU there is no sense in spending $100 on a 5 year old GPU, save your money until you can afford the new computer.
 
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