"I need a New PC!" 2011 Thread of reading the OP. Seriously. [Part 2]
- Thread starter Hazaro
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Guys I have a question, could these G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 4GB DDR3 2133 (PC3 17000) be downclocked to 1600 with maybe 9-9-9-24 timings and at 1.5v?
I'm asking because 1600 and 1.5v is what I've been reading is best for an i5 2500k so would there be an issue downclocking them or running it at stock with that processor, I could get them at a special price from someone as opposed to the G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 4GB DDR3 1600 I was planning to get.
I'm asking because 1600 and 1.5v is what I've been reading is best for an i5 2500k so would there be an issue downclocking them or running it at stock with that processor, I could get them at a special price from someone as opposed to the G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 4GB DDR3 1600 I was planning to get.
knitoe said:
I will in a moment while my computer finishes a scan but I think I got it. Googling shows me it isn't that uncommon it seems.
What I had to do -
uninstall the drive in device manager
scan for new hardware to reinstall it
insert windows 7 install cd
restart and boot from cd
format via windows 7 install
Doing some reboots and tests right now to make sure it is stable before I add any data. I hope this works...
MidgarBlowedUp
Member
Hazaro said:Time to retire my $20 friend.
lol. Typing this very sentence on the same keyboard. I read reviews claiming the letters would wear but, mine still looks perfect even after a good year or so of heavy use.
ah of course it was too good to be true. they didn't have my mobo. they just had a refurb but informed me that my whole order was ready for pickup. no way in hell i'm taking a refurbished board. it'll be another week or two till i get a new one. i do have everything else at least.
Corky said:OH laaaawwwddd I'm the BEST!
Just got my soundcard and when I opened the case I realized that two non reference 560 ti in sli take up helluva lot of space.
None of my pci-express slots were even visible. Just before I got mad I said " for once things are going to go my way " and without removing a single component or cable I managed to squeeze in the card holding it with two pens like a couple of bloody chopsticks...
Look at it! LOOK! You can't even fit a piece of paper between the cpu cooler and the soundcard.
This has truly been my fuck yeah moment of the day.
Allow me to bask in it.
Oh yeah, almost forgot, the sound... it's grreeeaaaat!
Yeah the coolers and motherboards are pretty much designed with that in mind.
That's the downside to having 3 slots in between PCI-E slots...the upside is the airflow in Sandy Bridge systems is much better for GPUs than on previous platforms, where they were only 2 slots apart.
I can't do crossfire video cards on my motherboard right?:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131713
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131713
Lostconfused
Member
Wow that sounds like a really elaborate way of installing a sound card. I just pressed it into the pci slot and that's it. But then again I didn't have the same feeling of acomplishment either.
Corky said:OH laaaawwwddd I'm the BEST!
Just got my soundcard and when I opened the case I realized that two non reference 560 ti in sli take up helluva lot of space.
None of my pci-express slots were even visible. Just before I got mad I said " for once things are going to go my way " and without removing a single component or cable I managed to squeeze in the card holding it with two pens like a couple of bloody chopsticks...
Look at it! LOOK! You can't even fit a piece of paper between the cpu cooler and the soundcard.
This has truly been my fuck yeah moment of the day.
Allow me to bask in it.
Oh yeah, almost forgot, the sound... it's grreeeaaaat!
Aren't you afraid of the card touching the aluminum and shorting it?
Lostconfused
Member
I am just jealous. I'll post a pic of my config when I get home, probably.Corky said:
What soundcard did you get?
Automatisch
Member
Just came in to post that I got my Corsair CA-HS1ANA a few days ago and really like it. It's priced fairly well and I really enjoy how it feels compared to the G35s, which are skullcrushers and start to hurt after an hour or two. There's a USB version as well but none of the reviews mentioning that model seem positive, and frankly I'd rather stick with my Mixamp or something else than get another USB headset after the G35.
Today my G110 comes in and I'm pretty interested to see how the onboard sound performs just because of how convenient it would be if I don't have my Mixamp on me and I need to save on clutter.
Today my G110 comes in and I'm pretty interested to see how the onboard sound performs just because of how convenient it would be if I don't have my Mixamp on me and I need to save on clutter.
SolidSquirrel
Member
Your Current Specs: Dying laptop w/ Core 2 Duo p8600
Budget: <$700 usd
Main Use: Some gaming, Wii/PS2 emulation would be cool, as well as a lot of video playback and web browsing
Monitor Resolution: 1920x1080... eventually
When will you build?: Within a week or two.
Will you be overclocking?: Maybe
Here's what's in my cart after 2 days of off-and-on research:
This will be my first build. Any dumb choices here?
Considered an i3 2100 setup, but it always came out so expensive. Is there a cheaper way to get Windows?
Budget: <$700 usd
Main Use: Some gaming, Wii/PS2 emulation would be cool, as well as a lot of video playback and web browsing
Monitor Resolution: 1920x1080... eventually
When will you build?: Within a week or two.
Will you be overclocking?: Maybe
Here's what's in my cart after 2 days of off-and-on research:
This will be my first build. Any dumb choices here?
Considered an i3 2100 setup, but it always came out so expensive. Is there a cheaper way to get Windows?
Get Windows 7 Home Premium. That video card is a terrible deal...you could get a GTX 460 768mb for cheaper. That should make up more than enough difference to switch to an i3 2100 + H67 motherboard.
Asus GTX 460 768MB
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...90&cm_re=gtx_460_768mb-_-14-121-390-_-Product
$115 AR
Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...windows_7_home_premium-_-32-116-986-_-Product
$100
Asus GTX 460 768MB
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...90&cm_re=gtx_460_768mb-_-14-121-390-_-Product
$115 AR
Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produ...windows_7_home_premium-_-32-116-986-_-Product
$100
Psychotext
Member
Thanks. I'll have a look around, maybe find something I like.MetalSlime said:
Sounds good, having a backup GPU might be useful for me as I'll be working from this machine almost every day.Jibbed said:
As for the graphics card, I'll be upgrading it eventually, but right now I just need a machine that works. I don't really have time for games at the moment anyway.
OmnipotentO
Member
Just upgraded my mobo/cpu and case. The mobo/cpu I upgraded to were the ones recommended in the OP for the $1k build (ASRock P67 Extreme4 and 2500K). Good shit. This thing is a huge step up from my old ass hardware. Did not do a clean OS re install like everyone on the internet recommends apparently. Sorta just winging it and so far there are no major problems. Was kinda expecting the computer to freak out over a huge hardware change like this but everything is running fine for the most part.
One problem, however, is the Realtek HD Audio thing. I used to be able to open the "Realtek HD Audio Manager" and double click on a color input jack to the right to change what it is (like from Line-In to Front Speaker Out for example). Now it seems like they are all set as something (like pink = mic, green = speaker, blue = line in, oj = center subwoofer, so on). I can no longer change these like I used to. Additionally, I noticed the "Device advanced settings" options on the top right of the window changed. It now only has 2 options: "Make front and rear output devices playback the same audio strea." and "Make front and rear output devices playback two different audio streams simultaneously." The option to set the audio jacks manually used to be on here. WTF is going on?! I want to be able to change what each jack is manually whenever I plug something in.
And my biggest problem: Line-in also doesn't seem to play through my speakers. I'm thinking it does detect it as a line in if I plug it into the blue input. Still, no sound comes out of my speakers. Thinking it might be related to the first problem maybe.
This shit is driving me nuts. So far I've tried:
Disabling, rebooting, enabling audio drivers from device manager.
Re-downloading Realtek drivers from the site and installing them again.
Setting some audio setting in the bios from "Auto" to "Enable"
Google-ing random internet forums from 2006-2009 for solutions that don't exactly match my problem.
I know you guys are not my personal tech support but if any of you have gone through this Realtek driver BS and could help me out here I'd appreciate it. Thanks in advance.
One problem, however, is the Realtek HD Audio thing. I used to be able to open the "Realtek HD Audio Manager" and double click on a color input jack to the right to change what it is (like from Line-In to Front Speaker Out for example). Now it seems like they are all set as something (like pink = mic, green = speaker, blue = line in, oj = center subwoofer, so on). I can no longer change these like I used to. Additionally, I noticed the "Device advanced settings" options on the top right of the window changed. It now only has 2 options: "Make front and rear output devices playback the same audio strea." and "Make front and rear output devices playback two different audio streams simultaneously." The option to set the audio jacks manually used to be on here. WTF is going on?! I want to be able to change what each jack is manually whenever I plug something in.
And my biggest problem: Line-in also doesn't seem to play through my speakers. I'm thinking it does detect it as a line in if I plug it into the blue input. Still, no sound comes out of my speakers. Thinking it might be related to the first problem maybe.
This shit is driving me nuts. So far I've tried:
Disabling, rebooting, enabling audio drivers from device manager.
Re-downloading Realtek drivers from the site and installing them again.
Setting some audio setting in the bios from "Auto" to "Enable"
Google-ing random internet forums from 2006-2009 for solutions that don't exactly match my problem.
I know you guys are not my personal tech support but if any of you have gone through this Realtek driver BS and could help me out here I'd appreciate it. Thanks in advance.
Interfectum
Member
Tomorrow is Wednesday.
OK I need help.
I bought the motherboard from the 600 dollar PC build and I've got everything installed. I need to connect the little wires for the USB, LED etcs but the manual is not really helping.
I have a HD Audio and USB (I know where these goes). I can't for the life of me figure out where the rest of the wires go.
Pic of the wires
I also have a green firewire cable but it doesn't seem to have a firewire port.
The one in the middle has nothing written on it.
I bought the motherboard from the 600 dollar PC build and I've got everything installed. I need to connect the little wires for the USB, LED etcs but the manual is not really helping.
I have a HD Audio and USB (I know where these goes). I can't for the life of me figure out where the rest of the wires go.
Pic of the wires
I also have a green firewire cable but it doesn't seem to have a firewire port.
The one in the middle has nothing written on it.
2600 + an ASUS P8P67 PRO would be a great starting point.Psychotext said:I'm ashamed to say that I need a little help. I feel like an old man confused by all of the current tech.
Basically my local file / web / database / development server just died and I need to transition my PC motherboard / processor / ram over to do the job. I can survive with my laptop for the time being, but I'm going to have to get a new PC, and quick.
Having investigated, I think I'm looking at the following components...
CPU: i7 2600
RAM: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 PC3-12800C8
M/B: Asus P8P67 Pro / Asus P8Z68-V ???
Cooler: ???
I'm really not sure what to go for in the motherboard department, I can't seem to work out what the differences between the different types are. Seems most people advise on the P67 or Z68 but I don't know which is better. What I know for certain is that it should have bulletproof stability, very high performance gigabit networking (an average day sees me transferring terabytes of data), USB 3.0 and run as cool / quiet as possible (the case has three 120mm fans in it, so airflow wont be a problem). I don't care about overclocking functionality, wireless or most other bells and whistles. Stable performance is everything, this machine will likely run 24*7 for the next four or five years.
I don't know what's good in CPU cooler land right now. Am rocking a Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme at the moment, but I'm guessing there's better around these days. Ideally I'd want another 120mm fan job as I need to keep the noise down as much as possible.
I'm fine with keeping my graphics card as is. It's not so modern now, but more important than anything right now is the rest of the machine, specifically the motherboard.
Any assistance anyone can give is greatly appreciated.
If you think you may POSSIBLY use Quick Sync then you can look at the Z68 version of the board.
I'm still using a TRUE 120. Still one of the best coolers.
Gaming you will not get the best results.kurtrussell said:
If its for GPU computing or processing it shouldn't matter.
Prophet Steve Now said:
scy said:
That seems like a waste. I TOTALLY understand how the macro keys can mess you up. I tried an X4 sidewinder KB and they threw me off pretty bad.
Try setting your keyboard further away from you and see if that helps.
More power regs. Second internet adapter. Bluetooth.Nekrono said:
ASrock in the OP is a good second choice.
It's meant for around 20GB SSD's to boost normal performance.Jibbed said:
Get the i3-2100. Period. Look at the OP. How is it more expensive?SolidSquirrel said:Your Current Specs: Dying laptop w/ Core 2 Duo p8600
Budget: <$700 usd
Main Use: Some gaming, Wii/PS2 emulation would be cool, as well as a lot of video playback and web browsing
Monitor Resolution: 1920x1080... eventually
When will you build?: Within a week or two.
Will you be overclocking?: Maybe
Here's what's in my cart after 2 days of off-and-on research:
This will be my first build. Any dumb choices here?
Considered an i3 2100 setup, but it always came out so expensive. Is there a cheaper way to get Windows?
No comparison to the x4 when you do emulation.
5770 is a joke compared to the 460, get a 460.
I'm only bolding this so you will get a considerably faster PC for the same cost.
Look at your motherboard manual. They small 2 pin cables go on the bottom right of your motherboard and should be marked.AppleMIX said:
Futurevoid
Member
If it's like the Exteme 4, they have pages dedicated showing what pins do what in so far as the power/led connectors. It's pretty straight forward as you just slide the black "shunts" onto the proper pins. The USB connections are just straight plug-ins. Same for the HD audio connections.AppleMIX said:
Futurevoid said:
I got the USB and HD audio figured out.
The System panel header has
Pled+ | pled- | Power Button | GRN | Blank
HDled+ | HDled -| GND | reset |Dummy
I have two pin cables (Power LED and Power SW). Power LED should go in the top left and Power SW should go right next to it. Right?
I did that and I get no power. What about the white and black unlabeled connectors? I have no clue what they are or where they go (if they go anywhere).
MisterNoisy
Member
AppleMIX said:
As far as I can tell, this is the layout for your Front Panel connectors on your motherboard. While I've marked the power and reset switches for positive (typically the colored wire) with a '+', it doesn't matter how you install those - the power and reset switches are simply momentary switches that bridge the pins. If you have unlabeled connectors and the case documentation doesn't help, just pull the case front panel and follow the wires to wherever they terminate on the front panel.
MisterNoisy said:
As far as I can tell, this is the layout for your Front Panel connectors on your motherboard. While I've marked the power and reset switches for positive (typically the colored wire) with a '+', it doesn't matter how you install those - the power and reset switches are simply momentary switches that bridge the pins. If you have unlabeled connectors and the case documentation doesn't help, just pull the case front panel and follow the wires to wherever they terminate on the front panel.
According to that the reset switch is one pin off.
MisterNoisy
Member
ithorien said:
I think the second row (the one with the reset switch) has a dummy pin as the last one, based on his earlier post, though.
AppleMIX said:
The other possible scenario is that the power and reset connectors go laterally across the motherboard header, though I can't recall seeing that configuration ever:
MisterNoisy
Member
AppleMIX said:
Check that the power switch on the back of the PSU is set to the on position and try again. If you still have no luck, try reconfiguring using the second layout I posted.
Hazaro said:
It was half in jest but, really, I also spend a lot of time typing at work (be it either posting on GAF or database entry stuff) so it's not like it would be totally a waste. I may even get to get it as a business expense kind of thing. I've more or less gotten used to it but there's still the occasional "oh damn it, too far left" moment that would ruin me in multiplayer.
I think it's more the fact I haven't had much prolonged sit down use with the keyboard since I've been out of the house for the weeks after getting it so I haven't really put a large amount of time into it.
>It is done. I purchased my brand new computer. Hopefully it will get here before the weekend.
Intel Core i5-2400 Processor 3.1GHz Socket LGA1155
AsRock H67M Motherboard-
PNY Geforce GTX 560 TI
Corsair 2x2GB DDR3 PC1600 Memory (CMX4GX3M2A1600C9)
Samsung Spinpoint F3 1 TB SATA 3.0 Gb-s 32 MB Cache
Antec Three Hundred Case
XFX Core PRO550W PSU
ASUS DRW Optical Drive
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Final Price was $752.62
This price includes $30 worth of mail in rebates.
For comparison's sake here is my current rig (don't laugh):
AMD Opteron 170 (oc'd @2.4 GHz)
MSI K8N Neo2 motherboard
Gigabyte Radeon HD 4650 (agp)
2 GB DDR RAM
Intel Core i5-2400 Processor 3.1GHz Socket LGA1155
AsRock H67M Motherboard-
PNY Geforce GTX 560 TI
Corsair 2x2GB DDR3 PC1600 Memory (CMX4GX3M2A1600C9)
Samsung Spinpoint F3 1 TB SATA 3.0 Gb-s 32 MB Cache
Antec Three Hundred Case
XFX Core PRO550W PSU
ASUS DRW Optical Drive
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Final Price was $752.62
This price includes $30 worth of mail in rebates.
For comparison's sake here is my current rig (don't laugh):
AMD Opteron 170 (oc'd @2.4 GHz)
MSI K8N Neo2 motherboard
Gigabyte Radeon HD 4650 (agp)
2 GB DDR RAM
Psychotext
Member
Oddly enough that's pretty much the machine I had before my last machine. Was pretty good in its day.desh said:
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